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A Voyage to Remember by PETER TRIPPI

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A Voyage to Remember by PETER TRIPPI Reprinted with permission from: DESTINATION ART 800.610.5771 or International 011-561.655.8778. CLICK TO SUBSCRIBE D The Danube Art Cruise A Voyage to Remember BY PETER TRIPPI GH he Danube Art Cruise, Fine Art Connoisseur’s second adventure Tabroad (October 2-9, 2011), delivered exactly what it promised, and then some. Conceived by FAC publisher B. Eric Rhoads, this journey proved an ideal way to mix the world-class art and architecture of five Danube-region nations with five-star comforts and a delightfully cohe- sive group of 27 passengers who eagerly shared with each other their passion for artistic beauty and quality. On the sunny morning of October 1, this merry band of collectors, artists, and enthusiasts from the U.S., Canada, and Australia gathered for the first time in the elegant lobby of Budapest’s Four Seasons Gresham Palace. Certainly the finest hotel in Budapest, the Gresham is also one of the Hungarian capital’s best located buildings: it faces the picturesque The Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel faces the Chain Bridge in the heart of Budapest. FINE ART CONNOISSEUR.COM | January/February 2012 Curator Dr. Bellák Gábor (right) chats with Peter Trippi in the Hungarian National Gallery. who showed us every inch of the spectacular, limited-run exhibition devoted to vast scenes from Christ’s life painted by Hungary’s favorite artist, Mihály Munkácsy (1844-1900). Measuring approximately 14 x 21 feet, each canvas dazzled us with its compositional complexity, rich color, and theatrical impact. Dr. Gábor also introduced us to unfamil- iar narratives in 19th-century Hungarian art, mostly from the country’s medieval history and legends. We concluded our stay in Budapest with a detailed exploration of our magnificent Sezession-era hotel, which has been carefully restored by Canada’s Four Seasons company after decades of neglect during the communist period. Chain Bridge, which links ancient, hilly Buda with flat, modern Pest, We almost could have walked along the Danube to our handsome where the great plain of Hungary begins. From our rooms we could see ship, the amaDante, so close was its mooring to the Gresham Palace. Just the Danube, the fast-flowing superhighway that connects the diverse three years old, this luxurious river vessel was built in the Netherlands places our group had come to explore in Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, for AMA Waterways of Los Angeles, and carries only 148 passengers. Germany, and (tangentially) the Czech Republic. We were hugely impressed with the scale of the staterooms, elegance of For the next day and a half, we saw the best of Budapest with our the décor, and quality of the cuisine, and we especially enjoyed spending astonishingly knowledgeable guide, Márta Tábi. On offer were the gilded opera The floodlit monuments of Budapest, in this case the Royal house, where we sipped champagne as Palace, were admired as we sailed northward. a gifted tenor regaled us with arias; the impressive Heroes’ Square with its neo- classical monument; the bustling central market; the quaint lanes of Buda; and the expansive views from the Fisherman’s Bastion. We paid special attention to the Sezession period of the late 19th and early 20th century, when Budapest was one of the world’s fastest-growing and most cosmopolitan cities. At the Sezes- sion Museum, the former Párizsi depart- ment store decorated by Károly Lotz, and the Parliament building, we admired the unique blending of Art Nouveau, Arts & Crafts, Viennese Sezession, and folk motifs that characterized this move- time with our British-born, Hungary-based cruise manager, John Riley. ment, and that needs to be better appreciated worldwide. Soon we were sitting for the first of our seven gourmet dinners together; One highlight was the before-public-hours tour of the Hungar- the seating plans changed each evening so that, by the end of the week, ian National Gallery with Dr. Bellák Gábor, the enthusiastic curator all Danube Art Cruise participants had found an opportunity to converse with everyone else. After dinner we climbed to the ship’s flat top deck The group admires Mihály Munkácsy’s enormous paintings at to admire the floodlit monuments of Budapest as we glided northward, the Hungarian National Gallery. toasting the start of our voyage with still more champagne. SLOVAKIA AND AUSTRIA On our first morning cruising the calm Danube, we gathered in the amaDante’s private lounge for a formal welcome by Eric Rhoads and the first of my three illustrated lectures on-board, “Diverse Expressions of Danube Culture: Bratislava, Vienna, and Dürnstein.” Offering detailed maps and thumbnail portraits of this region’s historical movers and shak- ers, these one-hour talks were intended to prepare guests for what they would encounter on shore. Also introduced was Gabriel Haigazian of Creative Travel Planners, who coordinated every detail of the voyage — in advance and on site — with both rigor and a contagious sense of humor. That afternoon we arrived in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, where we enjoyed a walking tour of historical sites. Particularly poignant were the architectural reminders of how culturally integrated this and the other cities of Mitteleuropa once were; under the Habsburg dynasty FINE ART CONNOISSEUR.COM | January/February 2012 Our home away from home, the amaDante Dr. Elisabeth Leopold welcomes Eric Rhoads (left) and Peter Trippi to Vienna’s Leopold Museum. ruling from Vienna until 1918, the people of Bratislava (then known as Pressburg) all spoke Slovak, German, and Hungarian equally well. It was the horrors of World War II, the Holocaust, and Soviet domination that closed that era, of course, and today the Slovaks, Czechs, and Hungarians are still trying to find the right balance between nationhood and true The impressive rotunda where we lunched at integration with the European Union. Vienna’s Kunsthistoriches Museum The next day was spent in Vienna, the onetime imperial capital and ongoing mecca for lovers of great art, music, and theater. We started the day with an illustrated lecture by the Viennese art adviser Christi- Dusk settles over Schönnbrunn ane Inmann, who discussed Forbidden Fruit, her innovative 2009 book Palace in Vienna. surveying artists’ images of women reading. This topic made particu- lar sense in Vienna, where the Empress Maria Theresa played a major role in 18th-century European culture, and where today several of the city’s major museums are directed by women. After an informative drive through the city center, we arrived at the Leopold Museum in the Hab- sburgs’ former stables complex. This is the world’s most important col- lection of masterworks by Egon Schiele, Gustav Klimt, and other titans of Vienna’s artistic golden age circa 1890-1920. We were welcomed there by no less than Dr. Elisabeth Leopold, who co-founded the museum with her late husband. On a day when the museum was closed entirely to the public, we enjoyed a private tour of its highlights, seen through the eyes of this passionate and articulate collector. Soon we strolled to the Kunsthistoriches Museum, home to one of the world’s greatest holdings of Old Master paintings by the likes of Bruegel, Dürer, and Rubens, not to mention soaring decorations by our FINE ART CONNOISSEUR.COM | January/February 2012 Vineyards grace the Wachau Valley, enjoyed A ruined castle overlooks the village of Dürnstein. here by Sasha Sanderson. Melk Abbey dominates the town around it. The next morning we awoke in the tiny village of Dürnstein, a world away from Vienna though it is located only 50 miles to the west, in the scenic Wachau valley. Overlooked by the now-ruined castle where the English Crusader King Richard the Lionhearted was imprisoned, Dürnstein is famous for its white wines, which our group taste-tested in a sunny garden before exploring its ornate Rococo church and cob- bled streets. Back on the ship, I discussed “The Church in Charge: Melk and Salzburg” highlighting the political and cultural power exerted by The ornate Rococo church at Dürnstein the Roman Catholic archbishop-princes in this region. My points were illustrated that afternoon as we explored Melk Abbey, the most opulent of the Baroque monastic institutions. Before docking in Melk, however, Hungarian hero Munkácsy. Here we were welcomed in the members’ we enjoyed an unforgettable afternoon on the amaDante’s roof, winding lounge by curator Agnes Stillfried, who led a tour of highlights before we through the lush Wachau valley while enjoying John Riley’s commentary lunched in the museum’s handsome cafe. Some of us peeled off for a walk- about the sunlit vineyards, cliffs, castles, and villages all around us. ing tour of Vienna’s historic center, while others headed to the Belvedere The next morning saw us disembark in the industrial city of Linz to see still more Klimt and Schiele, plus a retrospective of richly colored for a scenic 90-minute drive toward Salzburg, the greatest of Austria’s paintings by the Austrian Hans Makart (1840-1884). The group reas- archiepiscopal seats. Having stopped in the scenic town of Mondsee to sembled to take an after-hours tour of the enormous Habsburg palace of admire the magnificent church used for the wedding scene inThe Sound Schönnbrunn. This World Heritage Site is usually mobbed with tourists, so of Music, we made our way to the Salzburger Barockmuseum, which it was a special pleasure to arrive as the hordes departed, and to watch dusk faces the colorful Mirabell Gardens on the edge of Salzburg’s historic settle over the famous gardens as our tour ended. Some in our party then quarter. Here we were welcomed by director Dr. Regina Kaltenbrunner, attended an evening concert, while others shopped and dined downtown.
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