Issue №16 Est. 1999 15 December 2018 – 15 January 2019

‘Tis the Season of Loss, Light, and Hope

Kyiv’s best local tracks are all ready for your next cross- country adventure

One of ’s best-loved holidays – Malanka will keep you entertained this New Year

Don’t worry if you overindulge this season – local sanatoriums will help revive and restore

Contents | Issue 16 15 December 2018 – 15 January 2019

Issue №16 Est. 1999 15 December 2018 – 15 January 2019

‘Tis the Season of Loss, Light, and Hope

Kyiv’s best local tracks are all ready for your next cross- country adventure

One of Ukraine’s best-loved holidays – Malanka will keep you entertained this New Year

Don’t worry if you overindulge this season – local sanatoriums will help revive and restore

On the Cover A soldier’s return

Photo: Constantin Roudeshko At the train station

4 WO Words from the Editor 22 What’s Ahead Among the frolicking, goodwill A few top events to put in your to all is still of great import calendar

6 What’s New 24 What’s On the Cover The Kerch seizure, Martial While there are many reasons law, Miley in Kyiv, plus a look to celebrate the season, it’s at what the last year has been equally important to remember like for UA those in more austere Dino’s pick this month surroundings. Turn to page 24 8 What’s On the Move for our small tribute to those “Let it snow! Let it snow! Let Get out, get active, get men and women fighting for it snow! And grab a moment skied up! peace and stability to check our ultimate guide 10 What’s Hot & What’s Not 28 What’s Abroad Sanatoriums have a bad rap Kyiv too can get in on the through the cross-country in the west, but they may couch-surfing fun with Airbnb skiing scene in Kyiv!” actually save you from holiday indulgence this season 30 What’s All the Fuss A collection of bits and bobs for Jared’s pick this month 12 What’s Trending those on the run, plus some “Loss. Light. Hope. Get carried away with a few good holiday fun shopping hints from our WO Three words capturing the experts 32 What’s On the Menu experience of Ukrainians Italian from Beirut takes you 14 What’s On this Month on a culinary journey to two in the past five years, All you need to know, broken distinct but equally amazing down by category, about what gastro-adventures particularly veterans. These you need to see and do in Kyiv holidays we pause to salute for the next 30 days, including 38 What’s in Focus the best events for New Year’s Photo coverage of events from them.” Eve! around Kyiv in the last month. Did we catch you? 20 What’s On for the Holidays Malanka – a raucously good way to ring in the Old New Year

The Team: Contact details: Registration information: © All materials published in What’s On Kyiv Originally founded in 1999, What’s On Kyiv business community, both expatriate and Lana Nicole Niland Tyoma Myronenko For general enquiries, submissions, What’s On Kyiv magazine is registered with are the unconditional intellectual property is an English language monthly magazine local, and provides brief news articles on Paul Niland Anna Romanchuk complaints, or comments write to the Ministry of Justice of Ukraine as a print of Outpost Publishing and as such are with a goal to inform residents and visitors events of relevance to Kyiv and Ukraine and Jared Morgan Igor Hodokov [email protected] media magazine, License Number 22834 protected by Ukrainian and international to Kyiv of events in the entertainment and the wider region. Lee Reaney DoubleK LLC Team To advertise in What’s On Kyiv, contact – 12734P dated 7 August 2107. This mag- copyright laws. No materials from this cultural life of the city. As well as providing Alina Smolina Lera Zdanovych [email protected] azine is published by Outpost Publishing, a magazine, or the associated website, advice, guidance, and listings of live mu- Anna Azarova company duly incorporated in Ukraine. may be reproduced without the express sic, theatre, nightlife, sporting events and Natalia Kurtyak permission of Outpost Publishing. more, What’s On also interacts with the Nina Bohush Serzh Velychanskyi Dino Zulumovic 3 From the Editor

Acting Editor Jared Morgan

In November 2017 Ukraine’s voted overwhelm- ingly to add 25 December to the list of the official statutory days off for the first time. It was a move, loaded with symbolism, seen as yet another indication of the determination of this country to consign its darker days as part of the Russkiy Mir (Russian World) behind and assert its’ own, more European identity. It is a choice Ukrainians made in the bitterly cold and later brutal Revolution of Dignity of 2013-14. wasn’t having a bar of it. In just a couple of months, it will be five years since Russia wrested (temporarily) from a country unprepared for this show of aggression. Worse came with the invasion of Donbas and the on- going war in the east is the result. You may question what this has to do with the holiday season. Last month, the threat to Ukraine posed by Russia ratcheted up a notch taking a little of the edge off the festive season. At street level in Kyiv, the already prolonged holiday season is now ‘officially’ longer, and the juxtaposition between Western and -Or thodox Christmases is beginning to become evident. The magical Ukrainian traditions and rituals of the season have a new addition that will only make it even more magical. This issue could also be seen as a juxtaposition, as well as all the usual festive fare in these pages we made a decision to “give back”. Part of that is looking to the guys and girls fighting these holidays so you can celebrate them in peace. Another component is a toy drive “The message of we have set up for the children of Internally Displaced People. They, like those at the frontlines, will not be celebrating at home. 25 December is a one Ponder this. At the five year mark, the war in Eastern Ukraine has already dragged on longer than most conflicts of the past century; Ukrainians and those WWI, The Korean War, The Gulf War, The Bosnian War, and The Kosovo War. It falls one year shy of the length of WWII. All fighting for this country of these conflicts have been fought with international assistance. Ukraine has had to go it alone. We want to say, especially at this time of year when so many are separated from loved ones, we sup- especially need to believe port you! That begins with a cover that represents homecoming and reun- and hear after five years of ion – the classic ‘home for the holidays’ theme. It may not look particularly festive but train stations are utilitarian spaces designed defending their homeland for mass transit of people. You don’t deck a train platform with bows of holly! from Russian influence. The message of 25 December is a one Ukrainians and those fight- ing for this country especially need to believe and hear after five The message is timeless: years of defending their homeland from Russian influence. The Peace on Earth and message is timeless: Peace on Earth and goodwill to all. goodwill to all.”

4 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s New

The 12 Months of News AUGUST The Russian ruble hits a 2-year low in anticipation of further US sanctions. And JANUARY Ukraine rejoices ever so slightly. The biggest news this month is the ap- pearance of Vasiliy Lomachenko, a super featherweight from Odesa who will go on to pound his opponents and make several world records

SEPTEMBER Russian special services accused of poi- soning former military intelligence office FEBRUARY Sergei Skripal and his daughter in the AS THE CLOCK TICKS DOWN AND A UK. Vladimir Putin denies involvement, Ukraine contacts Tesla’s Elon Musk NEW YEAR FAST APPROACHES, WE of course. about getting his roadster in the Arse- LOOK BACK AT SOME OF THE MOST nalna metro station – the world’s deepest AMAZING, HEART-WRENCHING, station at 105.5 m deep. This is following SHOCKING NEWS STORIES THAT HAVE the Falcon Heavy megarocket, carrying KEPT US AT THE KEYBOARD. MIGHT Musk’s roadster into orbit YOU HAVE GUESSED WE WOULD BE LOOKING BACK AT A YEAR SO FULL? CONSIDERING WHAT THE COUNTRY HAS BEEN PUT THROUGH IN RECENT DAYS AND MONTHS, PERHAPS. BUT THE OCTOBER GOOD IS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE… Ukraine’s own brand of orthodoxy is recognised as separate and independent from as decreed by Constantino- MARCH ple. Russia, is, of course, not enthused. Member of Parliament Nadia Savchen- ko, former Ukrainian pilot imprisoned in Russia for nearly two years on trumped up charges, is arrested in Kyiv for plotting a coup. Ukraine’s little darling, not so dar- ling anymore. NOVEMBER Athens International Airport starts spell- ing Kyiv correctly! Well yeehaw and JUNE halleluiah. This following an awareness Russian-led forces violate ceasefire in campaign by the Ministry of foreign af- Donbass 13 times, in a single day. Mor- fairs that Ukraine’s capital should follow tars and cannons are reported as being the Ukrainian spelling. APRIL fired in Luhansk and . Ukraine Russia boosts navy presence in Azov Sea. has been ordered not to return fire so as If hindsight was 20/20… not to violate .

DECEMBER Polls suggest that Poroshenko would lose to a rival in a second-round vote should MAY JULY it come that during elections next year. Banners with Russia’s Gazprom logos Drug traffickers busted at Boryspil with a This comes as no surprise as his popu- dismantled and removed in Kyiv ahead batch worth more than $1 million USD. larity has been floundering for months. of the UEFA Champions League final. A 42-year old Turk along with his accom- Though, the situation is not yet clear UEFA agrees. plices are arrested. who would win...

6 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 The Kerch Clash Russian border. When asked about this On 25 November, a serious incident oc- situation while at the G20 meeting from curred in Ukraine’s southern seas, in which he should have been instantly un- what now appears to be a premeditated invited, Russia’s President Vladimir Putin move by Russia. Three Ukrainian vessels claimed that the fate of the sailors was a transiting the Kerch Strait between Rus- matter for the courts (as if the courts in sia and Russian occupied Crimea in or- Russia are some kind of body independ- der to enter the Azov Sea from the Black ent of the Kremlin). Sea were rammed and fired upon by the Russia now holds 24 more Ukrainian po- Russian military. This is the first time that litical prisoners, in addition to the 70 they Russia has not hid behind implausibly the 24 men who crewed them have been already have. In addition, the fate of the deniable “they’re not ours” forces, and taken hostage. The servicemen have each three vessels is unknown. all that is known attacked Ukraine under the Russian flag. been put before sham trials and sentenced is that they have been moved by stealth As a result of the unprovoked assault, to a two-month prison sentence for, ac- away from the original berth they first had the three Ukrainian vessels along with cording to Russia, illegal infraction of the in Crimea when they were first seized.

Martial Law! Pop Royalty Pops In the wake of the events in the Kerch Any Good News? Strait, President Poroshenko met with into Kyiv In another sign of Kyiv’s growing influ- On 6 December, the American Cham- his National Security and Defence Com- ber of Commerce in Ukraine held their mittee, who decided that, because of this ence in global music, pop superstars Mi- ley Cyrus and Mark Ronson were in town annual General Membership Meeting. and other information they had in their There are a couple of traditions for that possession suggesting a possibly imminent last month to shoot the video for their single Nothing Breaks Like a Heart. Released gathering: as well as enjoying a glass of Russian land invasion, Martial Law should wine and announcing the election of new be declared. on 29 November, the collaboration is ex- pected to be one of the biggest releases of or re-election of previous Board mem- Originally, Poroshenko wanted the period bers, members present are also asked to of Martial Law to be two months and for the year and has already reached the Top 10 in the UK. The clip, which shows the respond to some business environment it to cover the entire country. His proposal questions in real time where the results was given the thumbs up by his allies on the flashy songstress strut her stuff while driv- ing along Kyiv’s New Darnytskyi Bridge of their votes are shown on a big screen. NSDC, but parliament had other ideas. To the question, “has your business wit- Once made public, some people smelled a garnered over 15 million views in just its first week online. nessed growth in 2018?”, fully 74% of rat, as the two-month period the President those present indicated that they had, in- was asking for would, maybe convenient- The song will make its US network tele- vision debut on 15 December when Mi- deed, seen better business this year than ly or maybe coincidentally, just reach be- last. How many countries could make yond the threshold for any last remaining ley hosts the popular tv show Saturday Night Live. The Wrecking Ball hitmaker that kind of proclamation, that 74% of candidates to nominate themselves for the their companies had experienced growth upcoming presidential elections. If, for ex- first broke out as Disney’s Hannah Mon- tana before being named MTV’s Artist of in any one year? It’s a sign of good things ample, a super popular (and popular and to come. populist are not the same thing) candidate the Year in 2013. Ronson is best known had not yet declared, imposing martial for his song Uptown Funk featuring Bruno law for two months might kneecap their Mars, which was the biggest tune on the chances of getting on the ballot. planet in 2016. Kyiv has become a popular place for Recognition, At Last Some political horse-trading then brought The US House of Representatives has music videos recently. Earlier this year, the term down from two months to one, passed – unanimously, a resolution recog- American duo filmed and also curtailed the geographical areas nising the 1932-33 Holodomor as geno- part of their Nico and the Niners video in in which Martial Law would be applied. cide. This is an event Russia has contin- the city (34 million views), while Calum Basically, the ten regions of Ukraine that uously, for decades, refuted, regardless Scott’s 2017 release You Are the Reason, also border Russia and the southern seas, as of who has been at the helm in Moscow. shot in the city, has attracted an impres- well as the Russian occupied enclave of This most recent resolution passed in sive 266 million views. Transnistria and (both places the US is a huge step in recognising that where Russia has a lot of troops) are cov- “Joseph Stalin and those around him ered by what is essentially a heightened committed genocide against Ukrainians” state of readiness. Reports from those ar- reads a statement by Ukraine Embassy in eas say not much has changed and citizens the earlier this month. One go about their daily business without hin- giant step… drance, but there is a more visible military presence on the streets. Just in case.

7 What’s On the Move Get Your Dino Zulumovic Ski On

YOUR OWN LOCOMOTION ACROSS SNOW-COVERED TERRAIN. COULD THERE BE A BETTER WAY TO SPEND THE DAY?

Winter in Kyiv can be a difficult time. ing ski sport. And it can be for you too, Cold weather, minimal sunlight, shorter as putting a little effort into learning the days... So many reasons to feel the win- technique will reward you with a feeling ter blues. The most common way to beat akin to flying on skis! If you are less de- them is a change of scenery. An escape pendent on speed and adrenaline, you to warmer climes might be the first thing could stick more to this classical style of that springs to mind, but we have another skiing. This technique is easier to learn, suggestion: give cross-country skiing a try. and every newbie can start with at least It is fun, healthy, and it definitely won’t basic ski-moves. This should be adequate hurt your budget. With skis on, we assure for setting off on your own with gentle you Kyiv will help you learn to like winter. glides through the parks and open areas of Kyiv, giving you a different perspective POPULAR PASTIME of the city during winter. Just don’t be dis- Cross-country skiing is on the rise glob- couraged when you end up face down in ally in wintery urban areas, becoming a the snow: it isn’t painful, it’s part of the way to enjoy outdoor activity during the game of learning just to balance on skis. colder seasons. In Ukraine, it still basks in The rest is up to you! You can cross-coun- the glow of nostalgia. Once, the only way try ski as a social activity in a group, with to glide through the snow, cross-country family, your dog, or peacefully and quietly skiing now stands in the shadow of its alone in the snow-covered landscapes. popular cousin, alpine skiing. For those of us in Kyiv, if we look at the pros and HEALTH BENEFITS cons, the Carpathian mountains are far If you still feel hesitant and unsure about away, the few ski slopes that are there are whether you want to give it a go, the always overcrowded and Kyiv – with its fact that cross-country skiing is one of numerous parks, forest territories in the the healthiest winter sports should help surrounding countryside, and predomi- convince you. It uses almost 85% of the nantly natural flat surfaces – is an ideal body’s muscles, minimising pressure and playground for cross-country skiing. And impact on the joints, is a fantastic way of you don’t need to pay for ski passes. staying fit, and has a significant effect on the body’s cardiovascular system. And NOVICES WELCOME it’s a perfect way of recovering from the Every experienced skier will assert stress of everyday life. cross-country skiing is a fast and thrill- Whether you’re an experienced skier or a

8 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 BABYN YAR KPI For more dedicated cross-country skiers, A major event on the cross-country skiing the territory of Babyn Yar is home to a calendar is the Kyiv Diplomatic Cup of 3 km long demanding cross-country ski Nordic skiing. With the first cup organised trail organised and groomed by members in 2015, it brings together representatives of the triathlon club Triatman and FB of diplomatic missions, international com- group Cross-country Skis Kyiv. panies, state ministries, government de- Babyn Yar partments, cross-country skiing lovers, and xcskikiev amateurs alike. It takes place every year on the last Sunday of January on the territo- ry of the Kyiv Polytechnic Institute Park (KPI) near the Kyiv Zoo. More informa- tion on the forthcoming diplomatic cup can be found on the official website and facebook page of the Ukrainian Ski Club. Kyiv Polytechnic Institute Park nordicskiing.org.ua/en skiclub.org.ua

beginner who wants to give the sport a try, check out the most exciting and challeng- ing cross-country ski courses and for-hire TRUHANIV ISLAND services all over Kyiv. The cost of renting Across Pivnichniy Bridge, still on Tru- ski gear (skis, boots, and poles) varies from haniv island, within the Zenith sports PUSHCHA-VODYTSYA place to place but 100 UAH per hour is zone is Amigos tours – a cool rental place If you feel like exploring out of Kyiv, the most common price. in a great location with a wide range of equipment. Unlike Druzhbi Narodiv, this there is a specialised rental business sit- part of the island is covered by trees and uated in Pushcha-Vodytsya. Once there skiing trails are used for mountain biking, and skiing you will gain an intensive which means rough terrain with lots of country experience in winter. The track slopes guaranteeing an excellent whole dubbed the “Route of Health” is al- body workout. most 12 km long, with a starting point Trukhanivska – Zenith Sports Centre near the tram station Spetsdyspanser, and +380 665 129 555 is highly recommended for all cross coun- amigostour.kiev.ua try enthusiasts. Fedora Maximenko 78, Pushcha-Vodytsya

For beginners, the Youth Sports School №15 (Детско-юношская спортивная школа №15) is the place to start your HOLOSIIVSKIY PARK DRUZHBY NARODIV PARK cross-country skiing experience. It pro- On the opposite side of Holosiivskiy Another option for renting ski equipment vides two groomed ski trails nearly 5 km Park, closer to downtown and Holosiivs- is Extreme Park, an amusement centre long, affordable rentals of all necessary kiy Prospekt avenue, is Bikemotiv, anoth- in Druzhby Narodiv Park on Truhaniv equipment, and the possibility to hire an er place for affordable rentals. With two Island. Cross-country skiing here will cer- instructor. Once you find yourself more 3 km long loop trails nearby, the flat with tainly challenge you! Over 20 km of the confident on skis, you could explore the gentle slopes territory of the park is a flat and stripped territory is designed for nearby territory of Holosiivskiy Park. considerable attempt for any after-work skiers of all levels, but excellent for begin- Yahidna 2 outdoor ski activity in the centre of Kyiv. ners and families with kids. +380 677 890 921 Henerala Rodymtseva 11 Druzhby Narodiv Park +380 672 593 393 +380 63 1 362 585 bikemotive.com.ua xpark.kiev.ua/object/begovye-lyzhi

9 What’s Hot & What’s Not

ums have bowed to consumer demand, in- corporating western treatments alongside traditional Soviet-style therapies. They face an uncertain future but offer a unique Festive Detox experience. SANATORIUMS IN UKRAINE Here’s four of the best according to visitor ratings. All claim to treat inter alia: diges- tive, gynaecological, endocrine, urological, Jared Morgan respiratory, neurological, cardiovascular, and motor disorders. With the temporary loss of Crimea to Russian occupation most available places are located in western WE DON’T PLAN TO OVERINDULGE Ukraine. DURING THE HOLIDAYS, IT JUST SORT OF HAPPENS. TO HELP WITH RECOVERY TRUSKAVETS AND PERHAPS BURN A LITTLE OF THE Resort complex Riksos-Prykarpattya, BULGE, MAY WE SUGGEST A FEW DAYS IN about 80 km south-west of , is a san- UKRAINE’S PREMIER…SANATORIUMS? IT’S atorium specialising in the treatment of ALL LEGIT, AND FOR A SHORT UNPLUG TO gastrointestinal disorders, as well as those GET YOU BACK ON TRACK COME HIGHLY of the musculoskeletal system. If you’re RECOMMENDED feeling a little bilious after festivities this offers a solution. Rated five-star, the treat- To western ears, the word ‘sanatorium’ ment and diagnostic base is of the highest conjures up places where people suffering standards. It works on an “all-inclusive” maladies such as tuberculosis were isolat- format, with a luxurious spa, mini-water ed, confined, and (hopefully) treated. In park, several pools, a gym, and more. the Soviet and post-Soviet space the term A stay starts at 2 745 UAH/night has a different meaning. In the USSR, the sanatorium was more health spa or resort, Mirotel Resort and Spa, is one of and retains a fading nostalgia. Whether the leading health resorts in Truskavets. you believe in the powers of mineral water A leading cardiovascular sanatorium, it and healing mud or not – Ukraine is host also boasts gynaecological, dermatologi- to many. If you have overindulged over the cal, urological, and musculoskeletal treat- festive season they may be just what the ments. In addition to the advanced medi- doctor ordered. cal diagnostic base, it has an excellent spa centre, pool, and gym. AUSTERITY IS KEY A stay starts at 3 173 UAH/night A visit to a Soviet-era sanatorium is like stepping back in time. Relics of another POLYANA era linger in colourful mosaics glorifying Solva Resort and Spa is located in the Soviet workers; pot-plants dominate com- balneological resort Polyana, 30-odd km munal spaces. Sparsely-furnished guest south of Lviv. Guests are surrounded by rooms feature mostly single beds, hark- high comfort; the health centre offers use ing back to a time when guests travelled of the spa, a mineral water pump room, to sanatoriums alone. Mealtimes feature and exercise equipment all set against the food in more shades of beige than you can stunning backdrop of the Carpathians, imagine – all the more for focusing on the and the resort is famous for its healing business at hand. mineral water Polyana Kvasova. The treatments are hard-core: there are A stay starts at 2 246 UAH/night few delicate facials offered. Instead they range from radon-water douches and oil MORSHYN baths to magnetic sands and underground Some 85 km from Lviv and home to the salt caves. Things are more lax these days famed mineral water Morshynska, there is but once sanatorium life was strictly regu- the reputable, but inexpensive sanatorium lated, watched by staff to a strict regimen. so loved in this part of the world, meaning called Marble Palace. Its name comes At their height, these sanatoriums hosted tourists never venture out of resorts). A from the fact it is a great example of So- millions of USSR citizens each year, cour- mix between medical institution and spa, viet Modernism architecture – more than tesy of the state. sanatoriums were an integral part of the ten types of marble were used in its con- Soviet social and political apparatus. The struction. The mineral water pump-room THEN AND NOW USSR’s collapse in 1991 struck fatal blows, is one of its main attractions alongside a Productive use of free time was something leaving many of them boarded up and healing mud bath. Soviet leaders focused on to define ide- abandoned. Only the best survived. A stay starts at 2 100 UAH/night. al citizens. The purpose of a sanatorium Western spa culture has fostered consum- was solely for rest and recuperation (a tra- ers less interested in the medical element Those are just our pics. For a greater rundown check: dition that lingers with the resort culture of a sanatorium stay. Surviving sanatori- www.naftusia.com/ru/ukraina/vse-sanatorii

10 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s Trending

We ho-ho-hope you’ll find time to take care of: FIVE HOLIDAY GIFTS YOUR 4. TOYS FOR BOYS MAN WILL LOVE • A handmade card If you really want to surprise him with When it comes to the festive • Attractive gift wrapping some new tech, you have to find some- thing truly extraordinary to put under the winter season, all women fall • Champagne and mandarins into two categories. tree. What about a turntable paired with • Bengal light sticks The first type are his favourite album or an original Polar- Nina Bohush and those who start • A fabulous dress to sweep him off oid 636? Complement the camera with Serzh Velichanskyi planning in Oc- his feet special cassettes to start capturing your tober and spend first memories of 2019. weeks looking for Smart speakers, VR or 3D headsets for the perfect gift. The second video games and movies have high chanc- also adore treating their men es to thrill even the most serious men. with meaningful presents but Prices start at 250 UAH postpone shopping to the last prodj.com.ua, ipolaroid.com.ua, minute. As a result, the shop- rozetka.com.ua, comfy.ua ping ends with “I’m the worst girlfriend in the world” fol- lowed by eating a huge choc- olate Santa Claus while laying in bed… Don’t panic, ladies! Your What’s On girls won’t let you suffer through this holiday sea- 2. EXCITING EXPERIENCES son. We have compiled a list of the best “for him” gifts you can Memorable experiences are priceless. Im- order in minutes and get them agine your boyfriend singing out loud at a delivered right to your door (or concert of his favourite band, skydiving, or your inbox). riding a motorcycle on a dirt track. Does he look happy at that moment? If the answer The WO is “yes”, look out for interesting offers avail- Shopping List able in Kyiv. Luckily, there are plenty. Prices start at 200 UAH SANTA MAY BE MAKING concert.ua, karabas.com, riders.com.ua, chayka.aero. A LIST AND CHECKING IT TWICE, BUT WHAT ABOUT YOU? HAVE YOU GOT A PLAN FOR THOSE MVPS IN YOUR LIFE? LET US HELP

1. FOR THE EXPLORER What can be better than exploring new countries together? BezViz made travel- ling abroad easier, and after Ryanair came to Ukraine we have got an opportunity to travel for the price of a lunch. UIA and WizzAir also offer cheap flights to the 3. TRUMAN KIT FOR REAL MEN most spectacular cities around Europe. If there was a heaven for men, it would The earlier you book your tickets, the less include the Truman store. From old- they will cost (search for August-Septem- school cut-throat razors and hip flasks to 5. TASTEFUL ACCESSORIES FOR ber deals to find the cheapest ones). beard balm and denim shirts – Truman BOLD FASHION STATEMENTS Don’t want to wait until August? Then has everything a real man needs. Come We believe every city dweller should keep an eye out for last-minute flights. by and smell the whiskey candles or check have at least one of these: a durable bag, Think of the places your sweetheart has out a manicure set. When in the store, a crafted watch, and warm gloves for always been dreaming about and arrange create a kit of essentials your man hasn’t touching screens. Indulge your date with the trip of his lifetime! even realised he needs. a stylish accessory that will make his life in Prices start at 300 UAH. Prices start at 130 UAH the city more convenient. ryanair.com, flyuia.com, trumangifts.com Prices start at 560 UAH wizzair.com bagman.ua (bags), zavodshop.com.ua (watches), trekkinn.com (gloves).

12 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 GUYS GET YOUR ACT TOGETHER WITH THESE FIVE IDEAS Whaaaat? Christmass and New Year again? Seems like it was yes- terday, and you thought next time you would prepare earlier...yeah, 2. JEWELLERY FOR SOME BLING right. Am I the only one, who is This is always a win-win option. But, never on time with presents and we often have no idea what she likes. gifts? Some of you, gents, can Ladies have multiple criteria for just relate to this as well, I know. As one small piece of jewellery, which can such, I am here for you and have drive a guy nuts. So, buy a gift certifi- prepared an “emergency pack” cate! Period! Let her choose a piece for of last minute ideas, which you herself, you can stand and look smart can use to impress your special as she goes through the selection pro- someone. cess. I will share with you a Ukrainian manufacturer, guaranteed to bring joy and happiness to the one you love. Prices start at 370 UAH goodjewelryua

5. LINGERIE AS A SURE FIRE WINNER Take your relationship to the next level with a beautiful set of underwear. Get her something lacy and pretty from a Ukrainian brand of handmade linge- rie, and both win. Do I have to explain further? The WO Prices start at 720 UAH Shopping List www.zhilyova.com

3. A LITTLE LEATHER Or, if you want to do something a little more tangible, surprise her with some fabulous leather accessories: a leather If something goes bag or leather wallet made in Ukraine of real and/or high-quality vegan wrong – you took her leather. Prices start at 280 UAH to Prague instead www.thewings.com.ua of Dubai and she 1. FLY AWAY AND EXPLORE Take her to a warm beach and sun for doesn’t like it, don’t some much-needed vitamin D. Don’t spoil this one. Make it special. Girls blame me! And, by dream of hearing the phrase: “Make sure you bring your international passport the way, flowers are with you and don’t ask any questions!” But to make it happen you need to think it through. The companies I recommend applicable for any I have used myself. Prices start at 160 UAH situation, at any skyscanner.com time of day and/or 4. A SPA TREATMENT An excellent gift: earn brownie points not just with your girl but also her girlfriends night! Have a great by sending them all to a Spa for a days’ worth of pampering! If you do this right, holiday season! you will thank me – take my word for it! Prices start at 950 UAH www.admiralclub.com.ua

13 Theatre & Classical Music | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019

Moskalytsya Christmas Jazz Songs. Sinatra The Nutcracker One-act mystic drama Marco Concert series Kyiv Modern Ballet 19 December at 19.00 24, 29 December at 19.00 12, 13 January at 19.00 Kyiv Academic Operetta Theatre House of Architects (B Hrinchenka 7) International Centre of Culture and Arts (V Vasylkivska 53/3) 225 – 500 UAH (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) 200 UAH arhite.com.ua 70 – 850 UAH operetta.com.ua icca.kiev.ua The Crucible, Love…By Touch English-language play Bright story in complete darkness Witch-hunt 20 December and 8 January at 19.00 29 December at 19.00 Academic Theatre of Drama and Comedy Kyiv Academic Molodyi Theatre (Prorizna 17) on Left Bank (Brovarskyi Avenue 25) 150 UAH 120 – 240 UAH molodyytheatre.com drama-comedi.kiev.ua

JUNO AND AVOS ON ICE (ROCK MUSICAL) 2-4 January at 19.00 Palace of Sports (Sportyvna Square 1) Juno and Avos, a cult rock opera composed by Aleksei Ryb- nikov in the early 80s, gets a new lease of life. The ice show uses dance as a key tool of artistic expression to make us look at a well-known love story from another perspective. The performance applies special effects, spectacular light- YEVHEN KMARA (UA, ORCHESTRA, and-video projections, and virtual reality scenery to take us CHOIR, ROCK BAND) on a journey across the raging ocean – from the port city 17 December at 19.00 of Kronstadt to California’s white sands. Palace Ukraine (V Vasylkivska 103) 290 – 1 150 UAH Touted as a Ukrainian Mozart, Khmara spalace.com.ua began composing music at the age of sev- en. Now his trophies include a Hollywood From Saint Nicolas to Christmas Improv Award, Yamaha Artist title and a Featuring Veryovka Ukrainian National national Presidential Prize. Enjoy a mix Academic Choir of sophistication, intelligence, and spirit- 21 December at 19.00 uality. National Philharmonic of Ukraine 200 – 1 750 UAH (Volodymyrskiy Descent 2) palace-ukraine.com 70 – 300 UAH filarmonia.com.ua

Art of Choreography, New Year Concert WHAT WOMEN KEEP SILENT ABOUT Featuring Serge Lifar Kyiv Municipal (UA, PLAY) Academy of Dance 20 December at 19.00 22 December at 12.00 House of Officers (Hrushevskoho 30/1) National Opera of Ukraine If you want to know what women really (Volodymyrska 50) think about, don’t listen to them. Women 20 – 300 UAH talk a lot, yet what is it they conceal? Each opera.com.ua has secrets to hide, and five ladies brought to- gether under one roof constitute an intricate KUTAISI (GE, MUSIC AND DANCE Goliath, play by Misanthrope mystery over a murder that occurs at night. SHOW) Theatre Which one is a murderess? A police inspec- 18 December at 19.00 Based on Tom Gauld’s comic book tor sets to investigate this riddle. His task is far International Centre of Culture and Arts 22, 23 and 29, 30 December, from simple: while comparing testimonies (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) 1-10 January at 16.00, 18.00 and facts, he must not let the lovely ladies A multiple winner of international festivals, Teleport360, Kyiv’s Expo Centre drive him crazy with their ‘logic’. the Kutaisi State Song and Dance Ensem- (Akademika Hlushkova 1) 130 – 620 UAH ble is ’s cultural pearl. These talents From 250 UAH cbo.org.ua keep audiences hooked from the first minute Misanthrope.theatre of their outstanding shows. The Ensemble Straus New Year Fairy Show cherishes folklore traditions while enhancing A Boxer’s Heart National Presidential Orchestra (Brass them through ‘the young blood’. The Ku- One-act drama Band) taisi dancers will tour Ukraine this month, 23 December, 3 and 13 January at 30 December at 19.00 demonstrating a stunning blend of vibrant 17.00, 20.00 National Philharmonic of Ukraine (Volody- orchestra, mesmerising choreography, and Lesya Ukrainka Theatre (B Khmelnytskoho 5) myrskiy Descent 2) luxurious costumes. 90 UAH 100 – 600 UAH 200 – 900 UAH rusdram.com.ua filarmonia.com.ua icca.kiev.ua

14 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 Theatre & Classical Music | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019 Art & Family | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019

CONSTELLATIONS: OLEG SOKOLOV, MYKOLA LUKIN 29 November – 3 February Dymchuk Gallery (Yaroslavska 21) This exhibition is a chance to compare the works of intergenerational artists. Constellations is a se- ries of artworks by representatives of the Odesa non-conformism (a movement spanning the 60s, 70s, and 80s) and Odesa contemporary artists. Oleg Sokolov, considered a forerunner of the second FRAGMENT. SERHIY Odesa avant-garde, exhibits the results of his work: ZVYAGINTSEV a mix of culture, poetry, graphic art, and painting. Works by contemporary artist Mykola Lukin, con- 30 November – 27 January stitute the second part of the exhibition. His pieces Art 14 Gallery (Mykhaylivskiy 14) are represented in monochrome. Serhiy Zvyagintsev’s works allows Free you to reflect on his pieces to build dymchuk.com up your own interpretation. The art- ist doesn’t give his viewers a direct answer to the sense of his artworks. Contemporary Mykola Krychevskyi. Artist and Fragment is about the coexistence 16 November – 24 December the World of the universal and the individual UA: HUB (Melnykova 42) 22 November – 21 January in all senses. Free Museum Of Ukrainian Diaspora Free llitvinova.com (Moskovska 40b) art14.com.ua 25 UAH Avant-garde: In Search of the MuseumUkrainianDiaspora Fourth Dimension Painting. Liubomyr Medvid 15 December – 4 February 27 November – 11 January M17 Contemporary Art Centre AVS Art Gallery (Hlybochytska 32b) (Antonovycha 102-104) Free Free avsart.com.ua m17.kiev.ua

Santa Claus’s Residence The Nutcracker 18 December at 14.00 30 December at 16.00 Expocenter of Ukraine (Akademika Hlushkova 1) Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) 190 UAH 150 UAH vdng.ua spalace.com.ua

Crazy Bubble Show New Year Musical, The Snow 23 December at 11.00 Queen. The Power of a Hot Heart House of Officers (Hrushevskoho 30/1) 2 January at 13.00 Winterra. Legend of Fairytale 150 UAH (Arkhitektora Horodetskoho 1-3/11) 14-16, 21-31 December, 1-7, 11-13, cbo.org.ua 90 UAH 19-20 January, at various times knmau.com.ua Concert Hall, Kyiv Expo Centre (Akademika Colour Games Hlushkova 1) 23 December at 17.00 New Year Musical, Conspiracy in A major winter premiere focuses on the DAKH Contemporary Art Center Disneyland most vital things in life: family, love, care, (V Vasylkivska 136) 6 January at 15.00 and magic, which brings together big kids 250 UAH International Centre of Culture and Arts with their own kids. This world class 3D dax.com.ua (Nebesnoyi Sotni 1) show removes the boundary between re- 90 UAH ality and imagination: you will feel like a icca.kiev.ua little child who once again believes in the season’s miracles and fantasies. 209 – 2 499 UAH winterra.com.ua THE SNOW QUEEN. TALES WITH AN ORCHESTRA 28 December at 12.00 Kyiv Conservatory (Arkhitektora Horodetskoho 1-3/11) Welcome to a musical and literary performance that will show your children the beauty of fairytales. Olga Sumska will charm everyone by reading a won- Star Boy derful winter tale by Hans Christian Andersen. The Kyiv Camerata National 16 December at 14.00 Ensemble will impress you with classical pieces by Edward Grieg, Jan Sibelius, and The Wheel Kyiv Academic Theatre Kurt Atterberg. The colourful water animation by Angelina Golden is nothing but mag- (Andriivskiy Descent 8) ic! Also, wait for the sand show by Andriy Pisochny and be ready to feel the tale come to life. 100 UAH 120 UAH teatr-koleso.kiev.ua knmau.com.ua

15 Nightlife | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019

Lady Rock Bad Girls Party 20 December at 22.00 26 December at 23.00 Docker Pub (Bohatyrska 25) Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) TBC Ladies FREE, gents 250 UAH dockersabc Yolka. DNK New Year Test Vystavka Techno: Backstage 28 December at 22.00 Birthday Party Atlas (Sichovyh Striltsiv 37-41) 21 December at 23.00 from 200 UAH Otel’ (Nizhnoiurkivska 31) Atlas37 TBC otelleto Rozhden 31 December at 22.00 Toto Chiavetta (IT) Ego Party Place (Fedorova 4) 21 December at 23.00 from 600 UAH Skybar (V Vasylkivska 5) ego.party.place TBC SkyBarKiev Indigo New Year Party 2019 GRAND NEW YEAR AFTER-PARTY 31 December at 23.00 3 January at 23.00 Link — Vele (Whoyostro) Indigo (Kudryashova 3) D.Fleur (Hrushevskoho 3) 22 December at 23.00 from 400 UAH One of the most exclusive clubs in Kyiv, River Port (Nyzhniy Val 67) indigo.ambitious D.Fleur keeps the party going well after TBC the clock strikes midnight, and you’ve FB riverportkyiv Pro.Rock Pub New Year Party 2019 got an invitation. This evening features 31 December at 23.00 a special menu with prices that will not Top hits of the 80s, 90s, 00s ProRock Pub (Pushkinska 32) bust your festive budget. Sounds of 23 December at 23.00 1 675 UAH the night come courtesy of Vetal Art, Indigo (Kudryashova 3) ProRockPub Hardance, and Mage. MC Gospodin TBC Petr will be around to entice you to the indigo.ambitious New Year Carnival dancefloor. 31 December at 22.00 450 UAH Happy Christmas Caribbean Club (Symona Petlyury 4) DFleurNightClub 23 December at 22.00 800 – 6 900 UAH Tao Event Hall (Arena City, Baseyna 2a) caribbean.com.ua Freki’s Birthday Party from 150 UAH 5 January at 17.00 TaoHallEvent Buena Vista All Stars Volume Club (Harmatna 26/2) 31 December at 22.00 120 UAH Portfavor Party Buena Vista Social Bar (V Zhytomyrska 8/14) volumeconcertclub 23 December at 23.00 TBC River Port (Nyzhniy Val 67) BuenaVistaSocialBar Ladies Night TBC 10 January at 20.00 riverportkyiv New Year with the Stars Shooters (Moskovska 22) 31 December at 22.00 Ladies FREE, gents 150UAH Nightmare Before Christmas Party CEC Parkovy (Parkova 16a) shooters.kiev.ua 23 December at 23.00 4 500 UAH D.Fleur (Hrushevskoho 3) facebook.com/KievShowParty from 100 UAH DFleurNightClub

MASQUERADE 12 January at 23.55 Closer (Nizhnoyurkivska 31) Party too hard this season, or perhaps not enough? Either way, don a mask and join fellow nightlife lovers to take on a less traditional form of Old New Year with Closer’s Masquerade. Keep- ing you on your feet is Chilean-Ger- man producer Ricardo Villalobos – touted one of the most inventive producers in electronic music. Well- known for his work in minimal and micro-house, there is nothing micro about this party. from 600 UAH closerkiev

16 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 Ringing in the Lera Zdanovych New Year WITH JUST A COUPLE OF WEEKS LEFT TO THE NEW WHERE MAGIC LIVES YEAR, IT’S TIME TO CONSIDER Magic is coming to It’s Not the Louvre to WHERE TO CELEBRATE. AS VIP-PARTY ring in the New Year in an atmosphere of WE SAY IN UKRAINE, A GOOD fantasy, including fantastic beasts, French Stereoplaza invites you to spend New BEGINNING TO THE YEAR cuisine, and a magical cocktail list. The Year’s Eve in the company of some of ENSURES A GREAT YEAR music program includes DJ Derbastler the top stars in Ukrainian show business. AHEAD! SO WE’VE TAKEN THE – the official DJ of the well-known band A show programme from the Female LIBERTY OF ROUNDING UP Gogol Bordello; OY Sound System – a Quarter will have you laughing heartily SOME FABULOUS EVENTS TO band founded by members of Dakhabra- this New Year’s Eve. The programme GET YOUR 2019 STARTED IN kha; DJ Kostya Space being the disco and also features actors from Kvartal 95: Al- THE BEST WAY POSSIBLE funk. Enjoy this New Year celebration exander Pikalov, Stepan Kazanin, Yuri floating between the dance hall and bar, Koryavchenkov, Mika Fatalov, and Yuri Krapov. Not to mention live performanc- GET HAPPY, GET NEW the artists’ zone with atmospheric cinema es by Natalia Mohilevsky, NeAngely, and Samskara is an immersive exhibition fea- clips, and in their stylish photo-lounge. It’s Not the Louvr (V Lipinskoho 4) Garik Krichevsky. turing paintings by American artist Andrew Well-known MCs Katya Osadcha and Johns, known for his collaboration with the TBC NotTheLouvre Yuri Gorbunov will set the tone for the Burning Man Festival. Add here music from evening. If you want to celebrate in a big Anatoly Tapolsky and Vlad Fisun, who will GET A LITTLE CLOSER way, this is for you. play the whole night, in a two-tier space with Stereo Plaza (Lobanovskiy Ave 119) As per tradition, Closer presents an bars, a food court, spherical cinema, chill TBC evening of electronic music this New zone, and secret room. The first 500 tickets stereoplaza sold have +1 at the entrance, so hurry and Year. The main theme of the party is be- get in on the gig. ing kept a secret, but that doesn’t mean Samskara (Lvivska Square 8a) you shouldn’t get ready to rock around STARS, STARS, AND MORE STARS 500 UAH the clock. With the party lineup already Celebrate New Year 2019 in a bright events/302287937071385 announced, get ready for guests from dress and heels, with champagne and the Netherlands and residents of Boiler pumping hits at the Kyiv Show party. Zla- Room: Marcel Vogel (house) and San ta Ognevich will deliver an exclusive per- A COSMIC PARTY Proper. As well, Maayan Nidam (techno) formance, while guests of the evening will “Atlas is a starship that will go on a New will perform for the 10th time in the last be entertained by Dmitry Slipachenko Year’s Eve trip to far-off galaxies”, organ- four years. More news coming soon. and Vadim Novitsky, members of League isers say. The party promises a space trav- Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) of Laugh 2018. The party will also be lit el theme, with three dance floors, each in TBC up by show-ballet A6, a light show, a per- their own style. Performances by Ukrainian Closerkiev formance by illusionists and a string trio. bands, including Yuko, Latexfauna, and The whole hall will be one continuous FontalizaTechno will play in the Banana holiday photo zone, which promises to be Room, while Barbara Bar will host the hits bright and beautiful. of the ‘90s. So, put on your cosmic helmet CEC Parkovy (Parkova 16a) and let’s fly far far away. TBC Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) kievshow.com 360 UAH Atlas37 Sport/Festivals/Cinema | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019

The House that Jack Built Artem Dalakian vs.Gregorio Lebron The story follows Jack, a highly intelligent 15 December at 18:00 serial killer, over the course of 12 years, Parkovy Convention Centre (Parkovy 16a) and depicts the murders that really Hot off Ukrainian Olympic hero Vasyl develop his inner madman. Lomachenko’s convincing defeat of Jorge 16 December at 20.35 Pedraza for the WBO lightweight belt on 8 Zhovten (Kostyantynivska 26) December, Kyiv’s fighting fans have plenty 110 UAH of options to take in some live action in the .zhovten-kino.kiev.ua Ukrainian capital this month. The fun begins when Ukraine’s WBA flyweight champion Aquaman Artem Dalakian defends his title against the Arthur Curry learns he is the heir to the ’s Gregorio Lebron underwater kingdom of Atlantis, and (21-4) at Kyiv’s Parkovy Convention Centre must step forward to lead his people and on 15 December. Dalakian has moved his be a hero to the world. undefeated record up to 17-0 and is the 18 December at 19.00 heavy favourite to defend his title at home. Multiplex Lavina Mall (Berkovetska 6d) 500 – 2 000 UAH (Dalakian-Lebron) 85-170 UAH multiplex.ua Kyiv Basket – Ukrainian SuperLeague Frankenstein: Lee Miller 22 December at 18.00 vs Cherkasy In the second production of the play by Monkeys Nick Dir, based on the novel by Mary 10 January at 19.00 vs Mykolaiv Shelley, the roles of the doctor and the BRITISH THEATRE IN CINEMA 12 January at 19.00 vs BK Zaporizhia creature (Benedict Cumberbatch and IN ORIGINAL LANGUAGE WITH Meridian Sports Complex (Heroes of Johnny Lee Miller) are reversed. UKRAINIAN SUBTITLES 11b) or Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) 18 and 29 December at 15.00 The Winter’s Tale – 60 – 200 UAH Multiplex Lavina Mall (Berkovetska 6d) 18 December at 19.00 kyiv-basket.com.ua 180 – 240 UAH Frankenstein: Lee Miller – 23 December at 19.00 multiplex.ua Kyiv Basket – Ukrainian Women’s The Madness of George III – SuperLeague 25 December at 19.00 Tuesday Evenings at Cinema Citi 11 January at 18.00 vs Rivne English language movies show every Frankenstein: Cumberbatch – 12 January at 18.00 vs Vinnytsia 29 December r at 19.00 Tuesday at Cinema Citi in Ocean Plaza. Blyskavky Cinema Kyiv (V Vasylkivska 19) New and old titles alike feature. Popcorn Meridian Sports Complex (Heroes of Sevastopol 11b) 190 UAH + the silver screen = a good outing. TBD kievkino.com.ua Every Tuesday at 19.00 kyiv-basket.com.ua Cinema Citi (Ocean Plaza, Antonovycha 176) 50 UAH Dynamo Kyiv – Ukrainian Women’s cinemaciti.ua SuperLeague 11 January at 18.00 vs Vinnytsia Blacksmiths 12 January at 18.00 vs Rivne Kraina Mrii Drahomanova National Pedagogical University’s 19 December – 7 January Institute of Physical Education (Turhenivska 3/9) International Exhibition Centre (Brovarskiy Pr 15) TBD FREE bcdynamo.kiev.ua/ua monet.kiev.ua/new_years_fest Kyiv Ice Wolves – New year Market 18 December vs HK 22-25 December 23 December vs Romantic Skate International Exhibition Centre (Brovarskiy Pr 15) 25 December vs Donbas 10 December – 14 January FREE 4 January vs Bilyy Bars Snow Leapords Shevchenko Park monet.kiev.ua/new_years_fest 9 January vs Dynamo 300 UAH 13 January vs HK Kremenchuk events/257479364919361/ Citrus Kingdom Holiday Market Shalett Ice Arena (Shalett 6) 21 December – 13 January Free New Year 2019 Spivache Pole (Lavrska 33) vovki.in.ua 15 December – 20 January Kids 75 UAH, adults 100 UAH Kontraktova Pl spivachepole Kyiv Ukrainochka – FREE Ukrainian Women’s Hockey League folkukraine The Biggest Christmas Market 21 December vs Kharkiv Panthers Ever 22 December vs Kharkiv Panthers Kyiv’s Christmas Tree 22-25, 29-30 December 23 December vs Kharkiv Panthers 19 December – 13 January Vsi Svoi (Desyatyna 9) Shalett Ice Arena (Shalett 6) Sofiivska Pl FREE Free FREE Vsi.svoi hcukrainochka

18 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 Live Music | 15 December 2018 — 15 January 2019

Craig David (UK, pop, EDM) Atomic Simao 16 December, 20.00 (funk, acid jazz, psychedelic) Stereo Plaza (Lobanovskoho 119) 22 December at 20.00 490 UAH Closer (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) stereoplaza 250 UAH events/319659472143403 Vagonovojatye (electronic) 16 December, 20.00 Druzia Gagarina Atlas (Sichovykh Striltsiv 37-41) (acoustic, rock, poetry) 360 UAH 22 December at 20.00 Atlas37 Music space MK (Khmelnytskoho 57b) 200 UAH Bez Obmezhen (pop-rock) events/494293801065533 18 December, 19.00 Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) adm:t (indie pop) 390 UAH 23 December at 19.00 kontramarka.ua Secret place () SECRET SERVICE (SWE, POP) Free 19 December at 19.00 New Year Music Platform (pop) events/715678158788615 International Centre of Culture and Arts 18, 19 December, 19.00 (Nebesnoi Sotni 1) Palace of Ukraine Naoni Christmas concert Meet these legendary pop-musician of (V Vasylkivska 103) (pop, instrumental) the 80s: Secret Service is recognised as 590 UAH 25 December at 19.00 worthy of representing Sweden along bit.ly/muzplatforma2018 House of Architects (B Grinchenko Street 7) with the legendary ABBA. The band 225 UAH was founded in 1979 and quickly won Alina Orlova & string quintet concert.ua the hearts of pop music connoisseurs (indie folk) all over the world. The first success- 20 December at 20.00 Rock Monsters New Year: Sinoptik, ful single Oh Susie was followed by the House of Cinema (Saksaganskoho, 6) Vovk, Omana, Aghiazma (rock) hit Ten O’Clock Postman, which quickly 300 UAH 28 December at 18.00 broke into the world charts. But the rockforagency.com Art-club Teplyi Lampovyi most popular work of the band has (Mykhaila Omelianovycha-Pavlenka 46) been Flash in The Night (from the album Lucas Bird (indie pop) 200 UAH Cutting Corners in 1982). The song is 21 December at 19.30 events/453923155138687 loved and sung by Secret Service fans Shoom (Nyzhnoiurkivska 31) in many countries. So, come hear these 100 UAH Tina Karol (pop) iconic hits. 2event.com 31 December at 19.00 350 UAH Palace of Ukraine concert.ua The Best Ukrainian Metal Act 2018 (V Vasylkivska 103) (metal, rock) 200 UAH 22 December at 17.00 concert.ua Oleh Skrypka and orchestra: Bingo (Pobedy Pr 112) Christmas concert Shchedryk (pop) 220 UAH 7 January at 19.00 bingo.ua Palace of Ukraine (V Vasylkivska 103) 150 UAH LUBOMYR MELNYK (CLASSIC, concert.ua INSTRUMENTAL)

20 December at 19.00 Elvis’ Birthday Party (rock’n’roll) HC KPI (Peremohy Ave 37) 8 January at 19.00 Lubomyr Melnyk is a creator of the Con- Carribean club (Symona Petliury 4) tinuous Piano Music style, and true inno- 150 UAH vator who has been exploring new trends concert.ua in contemporary music. To play like this,

you need a special technique, and many The Sounds of Christmas with years spent honing your skills. He is not Lumos Orchestra (classic) only considered one of the fastest con- 12 January at 19.00 cert pianists in the world, his composi- House of Cinema (Saksaganskoho 6) tions also really transport listeners to new 190 UAH realms. At almost 70, Melnyk is the com- concert.ua poser of more than 100 works, and has a discography of more than 20 published albums, and going on his first world tour, the musician will visit many countries, one of which will be Ukraine. 250 UAH concert.ua

19 What’s On for the Holidays Malanka The Ukrainian Mardi Gras

Lee Reaney

WILD PARADES. CRAZY COSTUMES. NEVER-ENDING FOOD AND DRINKS. AND MORE SINGING AND REVELRY THAN YOU CAN SHAKE A STICK AT. NO, IT’S NOT MARDI GRAS. IT’S THE UKRAINIAN EQUIVALENT – MALANKA

This holiday season be sure to experience Malanka dates back to Ukraine’s pre-Chris- spreading wheat in a house’s entrance to for yourself one of Ukraine’s great cultural tian pagan days. One version tells the story ensure health, happiness, love, and luck. traditions. Long dormant in Soviet Ukraine, of how Mylanka (from ‘myla’, meaning Malanka was banned in Soviet Ukraine, this little holiday has made a comeback and ‘loving’) is kidnapped by her evil uncle, although some villages ignored the edict. large events are planned across the country. where the land is cold and desolate until Diaspora communities continued to cel- she is returned in spring. Christians used ebrate the holiday and it is still a major WHAT IS MALANKA? the event to celebrate the feast day of Mel- event in many diaspora communities to- Malanka is how Ukrainians celebrate Old ania the Younger and developed many of day, with western Ukraine taking the lead New Year – January 13-14, according to the the traits we see in the modern tradition, in reviving the tradition in post-independ- Julian calendar. Falling nearer the end of the including travelling plays, carol-singing, and ence Ukraine. month-long holiday season, it is one of the biggest celebrations of the holiday season. It entails lots of food, drink, carolling, and I’M IN! WHERE DO I CELEBRATE? ( OBLAST) good-natured pranks, while some communi- We’re glad you asked. There’s lots of op- The Village of Vashkivtsi in the Chernivtsi ties have added parades, concerts, and other tions, so pick out a place that’s near you or oblast lays a legitimate claim as home of the public events for the community to celebrate the one that looks the most interesting and Ukrainian Malanka. The community has together. make sure you don’t miss out on one of celebrated the event for well over a centu Ukraine’s coolest holidays! ry and has some of the most ornate, fasci - In addition to a good ole party, Malanka - also includes a travelling Christmas play, nating, and over-the-top performers in the or vertep, where groups dress up in garish CHERNIVTSI country. costumes and go door-to-door to perform a Chernivtsi has hosted Malanka Fest each nativity-based performence. Characters can year since 2011 and gets upwards of 50 be very different from region to region, but Malanka groups to participate in its parade LVIV generally include a goat, bear, angel, and each year. Lviv is one of Ukraine’s premier places to Malanka herself. Modern plays often poke experience the holiday season. Events start long before Malanka and include parades fun at public figures like politicians, so you KRASNOILSK () can find characters dressed up as Berkut or of didukhy (a traditional sheaf of wheat), A cross-oblast rival to the show in Vashkivtsi koliadky (carolling), and vertep (Malanka Yanukovych alongside biblical characters is found in the Bukovynian village of Kras- like ‘wise men’ or the devil. plays). Be sure to check out the Parade of noilsk. The village has developed its own the Christmas Star which sees participants These roaming groups visit houses where distinctly pagan character by combining the they perform their comedy acts, sing parade ornate, handmade stars throughout elements of Ukrainian, Romanian, Hutsul, the city centre. shchedrivky (carols), and prank their hosts. and Bessarabian Malanka traditions. Hosts make sure to wine and dine their guests, so the later in the evening the group KYIV arrives, the more ridiculous the play be- KHARKIV - comes. Hosts also see their guests off with Many restaurants and clubs will have spe Kharkiv will host the largest Malanka event a token of their appreciation (in addition cific Malanka specials. If you’re looking in eastern Ukraine again this year. Organ to food and drink) so that the next morning for a party, check out the Ukrainian Youth isers expect more than 10 000 people to at- the performers’ wallets compensate for their Association – Kyiv branch’s Malanka on 12 tend the third annual Vertep Fest on 12-13- - harrowing headaches. January. TED Talk-style speakers, a fund January. raising auction, and a dance and party are- in store for just 50 UAH. For a more tradi tional experience, check out the Malanka Feast performance at the House of Officers (Hrushevskoho 30/1). The nearly two-hour show costs 100-500 UAH. Kyiv Rus Park- has plenty of traditional events through out the holiday season too: we recommend checking out the Epiphany Day celebrations on 19 January.

20 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s Ahead

ARMED AND DANGEROUS 31 January – 17 March IZONE (Naberezhno-Luhova 8) “Armed and Dangerous” is a project ded- icated to the issues of the militarisation of LA-LA-LAI-NO / SHI-SHI-SHIT (UA, PLAY ABOUT BETRAYAL AND society, and youth’s attitude to violence and CLASSIC FOR KIDS weapons. It is a platform which brings to- VICTORY) 9 February at 11.00 19 January at 20.00 gether a group of artists and film directors, Budynok Kino (Saksahanskoho 6) Wild Theatre, Stage 6, Dovzhenko Centre who try to combine contemporary art and Bundle your children up and head out to (Vasylkivska 1) experimental cinema. The project is intro- enjoy classical music! This concert is de- Hercules, legendary son of Zeus and duced in the form of a video series. Most of voted to planet Earth and its abundance. demi-god, is known for his superhuman the scenes were shot during walks, parties, You’ll have the opportunity to listen to power. In his new incarnation, he finds and other everyday situations to show the some classical pieces from famous com- himself in Ukraine. To provide for his real state of Ukrainian society. The footage posers and your kids’ favourite cartoon wife and pay all bills, he is forced to look reflects the problem of ongoing military in- soundtracks. What will definitely cap- for a job. Stock exchange agents offer tervention in the east of Ukraine. ture your children’s interest is the sand Hercules a state-level vacancy: to clean Free animation programme. The orchestra the country inundated with thick crap. izone.ua will introduce your kids to classical mu- Attend the provocative performance to sic, and immerse you and your family in see if the mythological being is capable an atmosphere of nature and tranquility. of meeting this challenge to turn it into Presented in an easy manner, every com- his sixth deed. position will touch your heart! 150 – 450 UAH 175 UAH scene6 ukrkino.com.ua

DZHIMA STARS FOR UKRAINE AS BIATHLON WORLD CUP HEADS TO 10-12 January in Oberhof, Germa- ny and 17-20 January in Ruhpolding, Germany The Ukrainian women’s biathlon team start- ed the 2018-19 season off right as 28-year- old Olympic champion Yuliya Dzhima SAMOE BOLSHOE PROSTOE CHISLO claimed her first-ever World Cup gold med- TWENTY ONE PILOTS (US, POP, (RU, ELECTRONIC, POP, IDM, INDIE) al. She shot 20-for-20 to take the season’s HIP-HOP, ALTERNATIVE) 25 January at 19.00 first race – the 15 km Individual in Pokljuka, 30 January at 19.00 Caribbean Club (Symona Petlury 4) Slovenia. Dzhima was part of the Ukrainian Palace of Sports (Sportyvna 1) It’s difficult to determine their style, as women’s relay team that claimed Olympic This up-and-coming American pop-band CПБЧ, as they’re called in Russian, can gold in Sochi in 2014, but disappointed last is coming to Kyiv, where the duo will combine different elements: orchestral, winter in PyeongChang by placing 11th. “I present their new album Trench while on electronic, and rock. Every performance actually hoped to be in first place last year,” their Bandito Tour. No stranger to UA, is unique and each city gets a special said an excited Dzhima, “so that’s why I de- the music video for Nico And the Niners was visual approach. Strange texts at first cided to start this year with a victory!” The shot here in the capital. Their previous re- listen seem absurd, but the second time Ukrainian team will continue their quest for cord – , received a Grammy and round you will be surprised at how sin- a World Cup title with two events in Germa- sold more than 6.5 million copies. You’ll cere and simple are the metaphors. And ny in January. Oberhof will host the 7.5 km no doubt recognise one of their main hit somewhere there, between the absurd Sprint and 10 km Pursuit on 10-12 January, singles Heathens, which was featured on and the genius, lies the charm and de- while Ruhpolding will stage 7.5 km Sprint the soundtrack to the movie Suicide Squad, spondency of SBP4. In the spring they and 12.5 km Mass Start races from 17-20 while their song brought the released a new album, We Didn’t Sleep, We January. You can catch the action on Euro- group a 2017 Grammy Award for Best Were Dreamed Of with a new member of sport and UA: Pershiy (First). Pop Duo. The video for the hit is already the group – actress Zhenya Borzykh. And 30 – 75 EUR (Oberhof), approaching 1.4 billion views on You- they’re back in Kyiv following the new 95 – 345 EUR (Ruhpolding) Tube. So don’t miss this performance! year with a new gig. weltcup-oberhof.com & 1 890 UAH 390 UAH biathlon-ruhpolding.de/en concert.ua caribbean.com.ua

22 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 JCI Gold Seal of Approval® — first in Ukraine! What’s On the Cover

Loss. Light. Hope.

THREE WORDS THAT ENCAPSULATE THE FOCUS OF THIS PROJECT

24 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 What’s On the Cover Loss. Light. Hope. LOSS Jared Morgan

Loss in independent Ukraine’s 27-year teer movement, but his dedication to the history is already writ large. A revolution subject did not stop there. His award-win- spanning the festive period a mere five ning follow-up feature Myth profiles Vasyl years ago, descended into a bloodbath Slipak, the charismatic Ukrainian-born unseen in Ukraine since the darkest days baritone who left behind his career with of WWII. The festive season was effec- the Parisian Opera to fight in Luhansk, tively cancelled and despite the sacrifice where he was killed in action. Kanter and shared sense of revolutionary victory, researched Slipak’s life over the span of the shared trauma of the price paid was a year, digging up performance footage only the beginning. and interviewing anyone who knew Sli- Annexation and invasion of large swathes pak from his conservatory days in Lviv to of Ukrainian land followed. Just like on his final breaths on the front line to un- Maidan, Ukrainians rallied. Undeclared cover why he decided to devote himself war with a neighbour – Russia – once to the same fight he himself had been called a ‘brother’. But brothers grow up; devoted to. He would tour the European bonds become looser and sometimes are and North American film festival circuits severed altogether. The fight continues with the film prior to its general release and for many who took up the fight; that in March. battle continues away from the front- line. This season, What’s On wants to LEGACY give back and make it clear that wher- His next work promised to offer lighter ever someone is working to defend this fare, The Man With the Stool, which is based country, we stand with you! More impor- on his pre-war adventures of travel with tantly those who sacrificed, soldiers and his ex-wife, first daughter, and friends to civilians, we salute and support you in a deliver four kitchen stools to the coast- country still not fully sure how to support lines of four of the world’s largest oceans. veterans or displaced people alike. It was in post-production when some- thing inside Kanter snapped. SHAKESPEAREAN TRAGEDY Just days after leading documentary “The defenders stood firm, the concrete filmmaking workshops in Kyiv, Kanter gave in.” This now oft’ quoted line clos- returned to Obyrok. On 4 June he laid es Ukrainian filmmaker Leonid Kant- a carpet on the floor of a 3 cubic metre er’s acclaimed 2015 documentary The tank on his property and shot himself. Ac- Ukrainians, which charts the formation of cording to police, he stated, in the notes the volunteer battalion he joined, from he had left, that he had done all he could revolution in the depths of winter 2013- for Ukraine and had prepared his death 14 to becoming among the defenders of in such a way so as not to taint the soil Donetsk Airport in the Russian-led war of his beloved motherland with his blood. that followed. The concrete refers to the The Man With the Stool has been reed- airport, and while they stood to the end, ited in the wake of his death to reflect seven of the men featured lost their lives. and pay tribute to his service and work This June, Kanter too lost his life, to su- during the war and as tacit acknowledg- icide. ment of the psychological trauma he was dealing with but never spoke of. It is HOW? organised art and culture festivals, includ- scheduled to be released this winter with The 36-year-old’s death represents a wid- ing Mother Africa – designed to combat a date yet to be set. er picture of the scars of war, not physical racist attitudes and promote African cul- but psychological. Kyiv-born Kanter was ture, and Bread – a festival where partici- described by all who knew him as ener- pants gathered to make, as the name sug- getic, free-spirited, a modern-day hip- gests, bread. Beyond this, his film career Check out the pie-like figure – the father of two daugh- was promising, as his short body of work trailer for The ters and a son was one of the founders of attests to. Man With the the Obyrok art-village in the Chernihiv The Ukrainians continues to be one of Stool: oblast, moving there in 2007. There he the most poignant studies of the volun-

25 What’s On the Cover Loss. Light. Hope. LIGHT Nina Bohush A calling. A sense of duty. An obligation. From the volunteers to those mobilised. Defending Ukraine is a reality none of these men and women bargained for. This season, as those in relatively peaceful areas of the country celebrate Christmas and New Year or New Year then Christ- mas, there are people determined or ob- ligated to make that peace happen. For them this is no holiday. The reality of the situation in the east of Ukraine is that this is no sophisticated “Desert Storm” aerial war-type operation. It is trench warfare; something rarely seen since WWI. The goal is singular. Protect Ukrainian land.

A CALL TO ARMS When 50-year-old Ivan heard what had happened in Crimea in March of 2014, he went to the nearest military recruit- ment office to “ask whether they needed any help”. The office chief didn’t have a clear answer to this question. However, he promised to look at Ivan’s military re- cords and get in touch if necessary.

THE CALL COMES A year later, in March 2015, Ivan received a call from the recruitment office. He was invited to come by and clarify some infor- mation about his “military profile”. Ivan showed up immediately. A few hours later he came back home and told his two chil- he looks fit. His boyish face contrasts with dren and wife “it’s my turn to go...” his gray hair. Even though Ivan speaks As a former Soviet army officer, Ivan took with confidence, it sometimes seems he is a squadron with 120 soldiers under his far away from where he physycally is. Dis- command. He remembers his military tracted. “Not everyone should go to the service in Donbas with pain on his face. war. I think we should do what we can do “There were lots of brave men, young pa- best, and do this for our country. Those, triots ready to give their life for the name who can write, should write. Those, who of Ukraine. So many of them died,” he are good at science, should do science. I says. know how to fight, so I went to the war.” walking through 1982 or 2015. The time It was Ivan and his squadron who bore spent in Donbas has not only left deep LINGERING MEMORIES the brunt of a battle near Kurdiumivka scars on his life, but it also opened old village, one of the epicenters of the war Ivan learned “how to fight” when he wounds. in 2015. The officer looks back at those was serving as a soldier in the Soviet “We all thought that the fact that we days with regret: Ukrainian troops were army. At the age of 17, just two months got together and came there would be not allowed to shoot in response. “We after his conscription, he was relocated enough to end the war. Unfortunately, were sitting in trenches and hiding, while from Khmelnytskiy to Tashkent. It was it wasn’t. I wish I could do more,” Ivan Russians were shooting us. All we want- the third year of the Soviet-Afghan War adds, and lets out a deep sigh. ed to do was stand up and fight, but we (1979-1989). After a short term training, couldn’t disobey the ceasefire order that Ivan and other former schoolboys CONCLUSION was in place at the time.” touched down in a true-life hell. “My name is Nina. I have been part of After 16 months in Donbas, he came When Ivan talks about war, it’s sometimes the What’s On team since the magazine back home, safe and almost sound. At 54 hard to understand whether his mind is re-launched. Ivan is my father-in-law.”

26 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 What’s On the Cover Loss. Light. Hope. HOPE

Anna Azarova

Hope. For many, particularly volunteers, nel, the Team Ukraine captain, and gold in January 2015. “A tank twice ran over the war in eastern Ukraine provided a medallist in indoor rowing. “In Sydney, me and pressed me down as I was in a sense of purpose they might have lacked Ukraine’s brilliant results proved we are trench. Doctors said my state would never before. Coming home is a different mat- strong.” he says. improve. I persuaded myself that things ter; there are readjustments to be made. When Russia unleashed its aggression would change and started working on There is perhaps not the reception or against Ukraine in 2014, Ilnytskyi joined myself.” support they anticipated. For some it is the Ukrainian Volunteer Army – together “Soldiers have fulfilled their duty, and a struggle, for others it sparks a renewed with his 22-year-old son. A chief of staff, they can still represent their country, just determination, and this time of year all Ilnytskyi is engaged in the Joint Forces in a sports arena,” adds Havrylenko. those feelings become more acute. Operations on the frontline to date. However, for the determined they made a “Even in the combat zone, our guys con- RENEWED PURPOSE mark and they paid a price. They are de- tinue to train. Physical exercise and hu- “It was a challenge for me to practice ar- termined to be heard. And they are doing mour relieve stress and remove negative chery with one hand. Within half a year so on a stage where the whole world can energy,” says Ilnytskyi. “Alas, Ukraine has I was able to shoot 300 times in just one see: the Invictus Games. no general state-supported rehabilitation work-out,” Zozuliak says. Now he thinks programme for those coming home from about pursuing a Paralympic career. TESTED. CHALLENGED. war. There are only initiatives like the In- “I have lifted 177 kg,” explains Havrylen- UNCONQUERED victus Games.” ko. “And I plan to set a new 200 kg record Rehabilitation through sport – this is for the 2022 Invictus Games.” the cause the Invictus (Latin for uncon- A HEALTHY ALTERNATIVE Sydney brought together 18 nations. quered) Games pursues on a global scale. “Drugs and alcohol don’t do any good. Russia is denied participation since Launched by the UK’s Prince Harry four Sport can be a way out for injured soldiers,” only non-conflicting countries can join years ago, the event enables wounded chimes in Chernihiv-born Oleksandr the club. Ilnytskyi says, “Our mission is or sick service personnel to take part in Havrylenko, a 30-year-old police staff ser- to make the world see there is a war in sport. Ukraine’s national team – whose geant, father of a two-year-old daughter, Ukraine, dragging into its fifth year. Dur- members are those who fought in the and gold medallist in powerlifting. ing the competition, Ukraine was the country’s eastern regions – brought 14 Havrylenko suffered mine shrapnel only country invited to the Australian medals home from Toronto, Canada in wounds to his back and neck near Chor- Parliament where our delegates, myself 2017. In October 2018, they travelled to nukhine village in 2015 when Ukrainian included, delivered a speech.” Sydney to win 20 medals – seven gold, 10 troops were withdrawing from Debaltse- The initiative is not about fighting for silver, and three bronze. vo. “It was the most dangerous out of my medals. It generates a wider respect for “Team Ukraine 2018 comprises 15 vet- four rotations. After treatment, I returned wounded service staff and inspires the erans. They represent the Armed Forces, to my job, which also helped me get back international veteran community to get Internal Affairs Ministry, Security - Ser on my feet,” explains Havrylenko. together and set an example for others. vice, National Guard, National Police, “Owing to the project, I regained self-con- State Border Guard Service and volun- fidence and achieved many personal vic- Hague, the Netherlands, hosts the 2020 games. teer formations,” explains Kyiv-born Ser- tories,” says Oleksandr Zozuliak, a silver For more information about Ukraine’s involve- hii Ilnytskyi, a 48-year-old retired colo- medallist in archery. He lost his left hand ment: invictusgames.in.ua

27 What’s Abroad Travel like a Local, Host like a Pro EVERY DAY, MORE THAN 2 MILLION TRAVELLERS USE AIRBNB FOR AN AUTHENTIC TRAVELLING Nina Bohush EXPERIENCE IN 191 COUNTRIES. THIS SERVICE LETS YOU SAVE ON TRAVEL EXPENSES, MEET ORDINARY PEOPLE, OR EARN GOOD MONEY AS A HOST. OF COURSE KYIV AND ITS CITIZENS CAN GET IN ON THE GAME THIS HOLIDAY SEASON, AND NOT ONLY NOW.

It was in 2015 when I travelled using Air- bnb for the first time. I was planning a five-day trip to Bologna and was looking for accommodation I could afford. I’d heard about Airbnb – the online platform providing accommodation in the private homes of locals. It was quite popular among young travellers who were not afraid of taking risks and sharing a space with strangers. In my early 20s, I pretend- ed to be one of them. When exploring Airbnb options for Bolo- gna, I found a two-room apartment with high ceilings, blue window shutters and a tiny balcony overlooking a bustling Italian street. Three weeks later, I was knocking on the door.

A DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE My host Carlo turned out to be a friendly 24-year old Italian studying Chinese and dabbling in techno music. After a warm welcome, he took me on a tour of his home. TRAVELLING WITH AIRBNB sive stay in Ukraine. And for the host, Air- I stayed in the bedroom (as I was a paying Wherever you go, Airbnb always has bnb is a unique way to meet outstanding customer) while he occupied the living room. hundreds of alternatives to hotels on of- people and practice languages without The next day, Carlo told me where to find fer. Depending on your budget, you may leaving home. the best coffee in the neighbourhood and opt for a room, flat, treehouse, or even a Becoming an Airbnb host is simple and which restaurants serve the most delicious castle. The website features photos and free. You sign up, provide details about pasta. He also explained the system of reviews of every lodging, so you know ex- your dwelling, upload eye-catching pho- public transport and put local markets on actly what to expect. Even if you arrive in tos, name your price and voilà! Your my map. the middle of the night, the host will help home is listed on the website and avail- By the end of my vacation, I felt like I’d you getting settled. able for booking. As a host, you have full been living in Bologna for months. It was Another reason why Airbnb has quick- control over the house rules and booking the most authentic travel experience I’ve ly caught on is its price flexibility. The dates. ever had, and I haven’t stayed in hotels since. service suggests an incredible choice of Proactive communication, sincere hospi- apartments to match all tastes and budg- tality, and the cleanliness of your place TWO FRIENDS AND AN AIRBED ets. My cheapest Airbnb cost me only 17 will help boost your profile to the status Back in 2007, when a couple of room- USD per day. For this amount, I got a of “Superhost”. Make a list of Kyiv’s mates couldn’t afford their rent in San spacious studio with a bedroom in down- must-visit spots and put them on a pa- Francisco, they came up with the idea town Istanbul. per map to give to your guests. Personal Airbed & Breakfast. The young men put In fact, when staying with Airbnb, travellers recommendations from locals often earn an air mattress in their living room and get much more than just a place to stay: it’s great feedback from travellers. The more offered it to anyone who needed a place a unique opportunity to live like a local and five-star reviews you get, the more - peo for a short-term stay on the West Coast. explore the country from the inside. ple will choose your home for their stay In 2008, those two roommates Brian in Kyiv. Chesky and Joe Gebbia, along with Na- BEING A SUPERHOST IN KYIV Travel services like Airbnb erase bounda- than Blecharczyk launched a website and Airbnb is always looking for local res- ries, especially the ones in our minds. In raised 20 000 USD to invest in their idea. idents to join their community as hosts. our ever-changing world, opportunities Today, the Airbnb site is the largest ac- And Kyiv citizens can benefit from this await around every corner. All you need commodation provider in the world. Val- the most. Kyiv’s vibrant music scene, to do is step out of your comfort zone and ued at 31 billion USD, the service shook sporting events, and even old Soviet histo- take a chance. up the global hospitality industry and ry attract tourists from all over the world. Visit airbnb.com to find out how much you can changed the way people travel. Many use Airbnb to experience an inclu- earn while being a host in Kyiv

28 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s All the Fuss

Olha, Picasso’s Wife by Tetyana Sydorenko How many women did the great Pablo Pi- casso have a relationship with? How many wo book club wo of them did he love or hate? Does quantity Vagonovojatye matter after all when it comes to his first -of ficial wife – ballet dancer Olha Khokhova? Returns She gave birth to his first son and inspired the father of cubism to pursue a ‘classical period’ On 25 October, Vagonovojatye dropped best new release in his art. July 2018 marks the 100-year anni- its first single after a long period ofsi- versary of the wedding day that started their lence, Human Weaknesses and now the al- 18-year marriage. bum Reference is available on online plat- Khokhlova was one of five children born forms. into a noble family living in Nizhyn, a pres- Vagonovojatye chose an unusual method ent-day Ukrainian city in the Chernihiv of promotion for the new album – posters with cryptic quotations appeared in the oblast. Her father Stepan Khokhlov served A live presentation will be held on centre of Kyiv: They form just some of the in the Russian army, and her mother, Lyd- 16 December at Atlas. lyrics in Anton Slyepakov’s newest release, ia Zinchenko, was Ukrainian. At some For more information follow this QR-code: point, they all moved to St Petersburg where Reference; the result of observations on so- Khokhlova began to learn French. At the age ciety, and relevant to the here and now. of 14 she started taking ballet classes. It was The album turned out to be conceptual quite late; however the girl’s perseverance and holistic. It starts with a track enti- helped her join Serge Diaghilev’s legendary tled Brief, and ends with Pricelist, where Ballets Russes. texts are imbued with serious sarcasm Rome, 1917. While working on his and irony regarding modern man, espe- avant-garde performance Parade, Diaghilev cially his affect on the creative sphere. commissioned Picasso to design the stage set and costumes. The 36-year-old hot-blooded Spaniard – an experimenter and rebel on the threshold of worldwide fame – was already most recognisable cultural symbols. In notorious for multiple affairs with models fact, Ukraine’s Petrykivka art form is a and women of easy virtue. Yet Khokhlo- registered trademark and even recognised va was unlike all damsels Picasso was wont by UNESCO. to spend his time with. Infatuated and in- You’ll be able to choose from different trigued, he did all his best to win her heart. colours, designs, and even ornament Eventually, the subtle aristocratic girl with shapes. An angel? A bulb? A horse? Or impeccable manners and refined facial fea- even a Christmas stocking? Just find the tures yielded to his persistent wooing. one that’s right for your loved one and they’re sure to be in for an unforgettable gift experience. ABOUT THE AUTHOR As a definitive national product, you For more than a century, Ukrainian-born Olha won’t have any problems finding the or- Khokhlova from ancient Nizhyn, a former naments. Check out Kyiv’s famed sou- centre of Cossack regiments and Hetmanate’s Petrikivka Tree venir market on Andriyivskiy Uzviz, the main impact force, was touted as a Russian Folkmart on , or just about wife and Russian muse of a world-known Ornaments any Christmas market in Ukraine. Or, if genius. Finally, Tetyana Sydorenko corrects you want a truly Ukrainian experience, historical injustice and corrects the record. This Looking for the perfect traditional touch head out to the village of Petrykivka near famous Ukrainian journalist, scientist, and to celebrate the culture-laden Ukrainian Dnipro and make one for yourself! author of 10 novels, reveals the truth about holiday season, why not pick up some Pet- Add a bit of traditional Ukrainian charm her fellow hometown girl: the ballet dancer has rykivka tree ornaments? Featuring bright to everyone’s Christmas tree this holiday been re-introduced in her own country where colours in distinctive floral designs, these season by picking up your own collection she can be duly honoured.

wooden ornaments are among Ukraine’s of Petrykivka Christmas ornaments! souvenir UA

30 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 What’s All the Fuss

It’s Beginning to Look a lot like DESPITE THE INCESSANT REPLAY OF HOLIDAY TUNES IN JUST ABOUT EVERY Christmas… VENUE YOU VISIT, SHOULD YOU FIND YOU’RE A LITTLE MORE EBENEZER Anna Romanchuk OUR TOP-10 CHRISTMAS FLICKS SCROOGE THAN TINY TIM THESE DAYS, From traditional festive fare to a darker take on the holiday season, pop some WE’VE GOT A FEW IDEAS TO GET YOU IN corn, put your feet up, and just enjoy THE CHRISTMAS SPIRIT these holiday hits. ICE AGE FESTIVAL It’s A Wonderful Life (1946) UA MADE Meet Me In St. Louis (1944) This is the largest store of its kind for Spivoche Pole (Lavrska 33) Miracle On 34th Street (1947) all manner of Ukrainian-made goods, 15 December – 30 January Home Alone (1990) thanks to its online presence. A popular A large-scale New Year The Family Stone (2005) novelty this year is gift boxes – and here festival will take place in The Holiday (2006) you can find gifts for any occasion and Kyiv at the Spivoche budget, as well as build your own gift Pole, where Kyiv

best new release While You Were Sleeping (1995) Happy Christmas (2014) set from a huge range of products. All residents and city A Christmas Tale (2008) products are exclusively from Ukrainian guests alike will Eyes Wide Shut (1999) manufacturers, and the range is to be enjoy a grand seen to believed. amount of uamade.ua entertainment and attractions! Ice Age opens with an Head out of the exhibition of flower arrangements in ice house and enjoy some and snow figures, with snow slides as another fun in the snow fun feature for both kids and adults! Those for the big kids have a run of 70 metres, while the smaller in size will enjoy and nice quick 30-metre slide. Make sure you find time to visit the cute and fluffy puppies from Having trouble locating Artic breeds such as Samoyed, Husky, Like, and Balamut at the petting zoo! the very best places to find from 50 UAH gifts? Look no further… spivochepole

ZYMOVA KRAINA FESTIVAL MINISO UKRAINE THE WO HOLIDAY PLAYLIST Expocentre of Ukraine (Hlushkova 1) Looking for last minute gift ideas? This store The best ever selection of holiday favourites 8 December – 10 March combines a huge number of ideas for any right in one playlist. By purchasing a comprehensive ticket gift, from amazing soft toys to technological Sick of Wizzard, Slade, and Mariah Carey? to this beautiful winterland you can accessories. You should be prepared to spend Well tastes vary and the What’s On team is spend an unforgettable day in a realm of at least an hour here, it’s just impossible to representative of that. Love or loathe them, holiday entertainment! Meet your favorite leave empty-handed. Christmas songs are a big part of the festive fairytale characters and try out the park’s Khreshchatyk 29/1 period – and so they should be. With that most popular entertainment. Enjoy the in mind, we wanted to give you something city’s largest skating rink in the city, take a special this year, so we’ve prepared a festive VSI.SVOI HOME AND DÉCOR thrilling rollercoaster ride, visit Santa Claus’ playlist with all the top songs for the best New There are nearly 150 brands from Ukraine Ukrainian dacha, browse the festive fair, take Year celebration or warm and cosy family showcased here, which provide everything in a show at the puppet theatre or visit the evening. With love from WO team, use the you need to make your home extra cosy Planet Butterflies tropical farm. There will QR-code to have a listen: through winter. Across 500 m2, all items also be a special series of cinema shows and found here are made from natural materials, quests, the “Country of Robots”, a gallery including wood, wool, hemp, linen, metal, of 3D paintings, and a rope park in the marble, porcelain, and ceramic. It’s a one- trees. You can be sure, regardless of age, all stop shop for home textiles and decor, in visitors to the park will leave with a smile which you can find a gift for even the most on their dial. demanding home decorating. from 110 UAH

UA souvenir UA Khreshchatyk 34 vdng.ua

31 What’s All the Fuss

spring, which is why it’s sung at New Year in Ukraine – Murder, not Christmas. The song found in- Betrayal, and ternational popularity when performed by a Global Hit the Ukrainian Nation- al Chorus to a sold-out Lee Reaney Carnegie Hall in New York in 1921. English lyrics State Orchestra and the Ukrainian Nation- THE UNREAL STORY OF HOW were added by NBC’s Peter Wil- al Chorus (the same that would later pop- UKRAINE’S ‘BACH’ BROUGHT housky in 1936 and the song became a ularise the hit internationally) to promote CAROL OF THE BELLS TO THE staple of holiday advertising, with over 150 Ukrainian culture abroad. This made him WORLD arrangements of the tune in the last decade a target when the retook Kyiv in alone in virtually every musical style. 1919. You surely know this Christmas tune: you might have heard it in movies like Home STIRRINGS AT HOME PERSECUTION Alone or The Santa Claus. Or maybe it What most people don’t know about the Leontyvych was forced to again leave Kyiv was on the radio – after all, it was one of genesis of the tune is it was composed dur- and move back to Vinnytsia. There he the Top 10 most-streamed Christmas songs ing a time of great upheaval in Ukraine. founded the first music school in Turchyn in the US last year. Perhaps you even know When he first started composing his mega and began work on his first opera. He wor- that it was composed by a Ukrainian patriot hit, Leontyvych had been sent back to his ried about his security and even had papers Mykola Leontyvych. But do you know the home oblast of Vinnytsia for supporting to stay in while touring abroad story behind the song is filled with murder, workers during the 1905 Russian Revo- with the Ukrainian National Chorus. He betrayal, and a fight for independence? lution. It was there the conductor of the decided to spend Christmas Day in 1921 Ukrainian Republic Choir (Oleksandr with his family and a colleague, an under- TRADITIONAL ROOTS Koshyts) asked him to create a song based cover Chekist (Soviet State Security) officer While Leontyvch arranged the well-known on . Shchedryk was named Afanasy Grishchenko. After the cel- musical version of the song we know today, first played at the Kyiv University in 1916 ebrations, Grishchenko was invited to stay he based it on a traditional folk chant that to great acclaim, making Leontyvych a over and share a room with Leontyvych. supposedly predates Christianity. Known well-known figure when the Ukrainian The officer shot Leontyvych at dawn, rob- as ‘Shchedryk’ (Bountiful Evening), the People’s Republic was proclaimed just six bing his family and leaving the composer to Ukrainian lyrics tell of a swallow that flies months later. During this short period of die of blood loss a few hours later. The man into a house and sings of the wealth and time of early independence, Leontyvych paid with his life to promote Ukrainian cul- prosperity that is coming. The song her- was instrumental in helping form Ukrain- ture abroad, making him one of Ukraine’s alds the rebirth of earth and the coming of ian cultural entities such as the Ukrainian earliest patriots and martyrs.

Ukrainian businesses often make their own stamps. Not because they’re re- Soviet Stamps quired, just to make their own document look more official.

TRY IT YOURSELF Lee Reaney One hundred and fifty UAH and 30 min- utes later and you too could enjoy your STAMPS ARE HARMLESS, WE’RE own stamp that will wow and amaze your TAUGHT. FROM A YOUNG AGE, Ukrainian friends into thinking that any- WE’RE GIVEN THEM AS TOYS thing you make is official. Try it on your TO DECORATE EVERYTHING recipe cards, your post-it notes, or even to FROM CHRISTMAS CARDS certify your love on a card to your special TO UNSUSPECTING KITTIES. STAMP OF APPROVAL guy/gal. Remember – it’s simply not offi- HOWEVER, STAMPS IN UKRAINE I’m reminded of a time observing an cial if it doesn’t have ‘the stamp’. ARE FAR MORE DANGEROUS. election a few years ago. The election Think we’re exaggerating? Remem- committee’s stamp, which was supposed ber when exiled former President Ya- Of course, I’m talking about the ubiqui- to be locked away in the safe, was discov- nukovych revoked the licences of 590 tous ‘pechatka’; a Soviet relic that offers a ered to be at the committee president’s Crimean prosecutors from his home in daily reminder of the dreaded Soviet-era home. The committee wanted to send her Russia? Ukraine’s State Prosecutor (Yuriy bureaucracy. You will have encountered home to retrieve it but couldn’t make an Lutsenko) politely reminded him that his the pechatka if you’ve ever had to do an- ‘official’ decision – because they couldn’t decision was invalid because it lacked the ything official. Or unofficial. It’s that- cir stamp it! required pechatka. cular stamp attached to damn near any As Ukraine moves past its paper-based written document. And it wields an un- WE WAITED THREE HOURS economy into the modern world of plas- canny power over the Ukrainian people, It’s not just for government documents tic cards, holograms, and watermarks, because your document simply isn’t valid either. Ever wonder why your menu pag- perhaps there’s hope yet that this terrible goodbye lenin goodbye if there is no stamp. es are adorned with a pechatka? Us too. little stamp will also find itself in exile.

32 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s On the Menu Italian from Beirut Anna Azarova

BOLD BUT BALANCED. OPPOSITE BUT EQUAL. THIS IS HOW TWO DIFFERENT TRADITIONS – ITALIAN AND LEBANESE – COME TOGETHER TO FORM A HAPPY MARRIAGE. THIS IS HOW TWO SEPARATE NOVELS GET MERGED INTO A TALE FULL OF GASTRONOMIC DISCOVERIES

A new dining spot bears a distinctive name – Italian from Beirut. It lurks in a small lane in Podil near Hub 4.0 famous for its confer- ence facilities. The restaurant ideally suits Baba Ganoush is a piquant vegetable puree those working nearby. However, it offers made out of eggplant, sweet red pepper, and much more than just convenience. onion and intensified with spices. Labneh shines as a pearl in this collection. This thick, COLLABORATION OF CULTURES tangy homemade cheese tastes somewhere The concept spins around the chef Dali, between sour cream and yogurt. who has Italian roots but spent many years in Lebanon. With two cuisines close to his MEET MEAT heart, he could not bear to say farewell to There is no substitute for a good piece of either of them. Instead, he has them collab- meat. In the spotlight, Kebab is a guest star orate with each other. in many recipes here. We choose two. Pizzetta This is apparent in the design. A light warm EDIBLE INVENTORY with tomatoes, mozzarella, and mini-kebabs pallet showcases brown hues with beige and blends flavours of two countries into seamless Meze Set (eight snacks) 195 UAH ivory being dominant colours. Plenty of deliciously zesty harmony. To enhance the ef- Pizzetta with Kebab 169 UAH natural wood enhances a feeling of comfort fect, we indulge in the Signature Kebab fea- Signature Kebab 169 UAH and ease. turing nicely chopped beef and lamb cooked Mount Hermon Yarden (150 ml) 132 UAH Bright accents highlight a mix of two cul- on an in-house grill. The texture is a pleasant Saffron Cocktail 139 UAH tures. A long narrow space, large motley bite – not mushy, yet juicy and succulent – Beirut Cocktail 149 UAH woven pictures, forged metal elements, and with a vivid charred note. oriental motifs symbolise Beirut. The walls The cocktail menu is eyecatching, and we TOTAL 953 UAH are adorned with a poem, written in Middle round off our feast with original and sumptu- Eastern-inspired lettering though initially ous concoctions savoured without straws. Saf- created by an Italian poet. He describes an eral couples. Ceiling lights shaped as smart fron is an exquisitely refreshing multi-layered ancient town resembling Podil. glass jars are the finishing touch, but we are must-drink. Beirut is a strong powerful bever- Simple but stylish furniture, chairs with here to whet our appetite. age with a deep velvety aftertaste of Cayenne green-and-red floral prints, and potted pepper reminiscent of a rainbow-coloured plants invoke memries of sunny Italy. Our WHEN IN ROME AND BEIRUT carpet displayed at a bazar. attention swerves to a large oblong table in We order a meze set, and shortly a server The Italy-Lebanon partnership reaches its the middle of the central zone. It can easily brings us a platter comprising eight appetis- climax in breakfasts offered here all day long. accommodate a large group of guests or sev- ers garnished with grissini and dry crackers. Is there anything missing? Right, a summer The assortment includes pickled cucumbers terrace in an inner yard. It will be open when and olives to start. the weather grows milder. Then we help ourselves to salads. As well as Caprese – something you can’t imagine Ita- THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST ly without – we enjoy Lebanese Tabbouleh. English Menu To be launched A healthy low fat starter combining fresh English-speaking staff ü red tomatoes, fine grain bulgur, and lots of Wifi ü parsley. Price $$ We move on to take part in a parade of WO Rating dips. The first one is Hummus, popular in the Middle East, Mediterranean, and Italian From Beirut MAKE SURE YOU TRY North African areas. The rich nourishing Yaroslavskiy Lane 1/3 Frittata with Kofta Kebab 99 UAH smooth-textured spread comes in two var- ¾ 10:00 – 23:00 Beirut Chicken with fried potatoes, ities, classic chickpea and a green-tinted ItalianFromBeirut a bagel and garlic sauce 255 UAH avocado alternative. Both options are great. +38 067 299 2525

34 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019

What’s In Focus

CELEBRATING BOHDAN HAWRYLYSHYN On 14 November, the first Charity Gala Dinner and Silent Auc- tion of the Bohdan Hawrylyshyn Family Foundation took place in Kyiv. The purpose of the event was to support programmes for youth launched by Dr Bohdan Hawrylyshyn in 2012, a world-known economist and scientist, outstanding Ukrainian patriot, and global vi- sionary. The event brought together national and international lead- ers, well-known personalities, business representatives, and diplomats, cultural fgures, and young leaders from the foundations’ programs, in an warm, like-minded, and generous atmosphere.

BELGIUM MEETS UKRAINE On 15 November, distinguished Belgian nationals, along with their friends and compatriots in Ukraine, came together at the National Philharmonic to enjoy the classical stylings of a Ukraini- an-Belgian team – the Blumenfeld Piano Duo. The occasion Belgian King’s Day – a memorable and classy event, with HE Mr Alex Le- naerts at the helm. Photos c/o Oleksandr Avramenko and Kirill Nazipov Avramenko c/o Oleksandr Photos

36 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 EXCLUSIVE PARTY 14 November marked the grand opening of 11 Mirrors Rooftop Restaurant and a World Class Bar. Many celebrities turned up at 11 Mirrors Design Hotel to attend the stylish party hosted by the two founders and originals – Vladimir Klitschko and Ruslan Oleksenko. Sprawling over the whole 11th floor, the new rooftop space offers an elevated – in all senses – dining experience and handcrafted signature cocktails with a mesmerising sky- line view over the historical city centre. The restaurant’s menu boasts refned versions of European dishes fused with contemporary Ukrainian cuisine and a touch of piquant Pan-Asian flavour.

AGENTS OF CHANGE On 13 November, the Hilton Hotel saw a number of ‘Agents of Change’ upon its doorstep. The ffth annual forum, organised by Nobles Fortune and Deloitte, brought together more than 600 leaders of business and public opinion who took part in fve open discussions on current topics, two soft skills master classes, and a crash course from Stanford. Among the more notable speakers were Ai- varas Abromavicius, ex-Minister of Economy of Ukraine, and Andriy Kobolev, head of the board of NAK Naftogaz Ukraine.

37 What’s In Focus

CHRISTMAS CHEER All three floors of NSC Olimpiyskiy weref lled with a tangible Christmas spirit and multicultural atmos- phere on 8 December as the International Wom- en’s Club of Kyiv opened the doors to their annual Christmas bazaar. This year, among the 42 embassies participating, more than 2 000 volunteers joined forc- es to raise 3 303 000 UAH. President Valerie Stulik- ova says, “It is important to do meaningful things in life, and the IWCK Charity Bazaar defnitely is one of them! It is an event where we share our cultures and through our work we are able to raise important money for charity.”

38 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019 FESTIVE NETWORKING The international business community let the festiv- ities roll on 8 December as The Big Meet gathered at Sanpaolo restaurant. Guests at the event enjoyed a jolly evening of drinks and networking around the Christmas tree. Make sure you find time to join them for the next ‘big’ event – you won’t regret it.

GIVING THANKS Thanksgiving is the most heartwarming of holidays throughout the year. It’s all about good vibes, positive emotions, and genuine gratitude. On 17 November, the American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine united Chamber members at the Hilton Hotel for their fourth annual Thanksgiving dinner. Guests enjoyed this special evening with an authentic holiday meal and turkey parade, wonderful performances, and great network- ing with fellow Chamber members, partners, officials, as well as the diplomatic community.

39 Sector H Sector K Sector M Frenchie (Sichovykh Striltsiv 10) Shlyapa (Antonovycha 14) FRAT Social Club (Evgena Konovaltsya 36d) Like a local wine bar (Sichovykh Striltsiv 26) Perfe (Antonovycha 14а) La Casa Del Habano (Klovskiy Descent 13) Reni (Sichovykh Striltsiv 60) Holiday Inn hotel (Antonovycha 79 ) Almondo Night Party Bar (Lesi Ukrainky Normal (Antonovycha 81 ) bulv. 34) Sector J Kyiv President hotel (Hospitalna 12) Amber (Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 30а) Alphavito hotel (Predslavynska 35d) Rus hotel (Hospitalna 4) Kazbek (Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 30а) Lounge bar Мантры (V. Vasylkivska 5 ) Belle Vue Belgian Beer Cafe (Saksahanskogo 7) Napule (Mechnykova 9) Laky Pub (V. Vasylkivska 13) Yabloko (Saksaganskoho 39/41) O' CAFE (Mechnykova 9) Under Wonder (V. Vasylkivska 21 ) Dos Amigos (Saksaganskoho 51/87) Si (Mechnykova 9) Tolstoy (V. Vasylkivska 19) Sam’ s Steak House (Zhylyanska 37) Gorchitsa (Pylypa Orlyka 6) Bierstube (V. Vasylkivska 20 ) Steak House Goodman (Zhylyanska 75) Mama Manana (V. Vasylkivska 44) Sector N Alfaro (V. Vasylkivska 49) Sector L LKafa (Chokolivskiy bulv.11) Druzi Cafe (V. Vasylkivska 49а) Balveder (Dniprovskiy Descent 1) Cosmopolite hotel (Vadyma Getmana 6) Rooster Grill Bar (V. Vasylkivska 68) Park Cafe (Mazepy 11а) IQ hotel (Vadyma Getmana 6) Manu (V. Vasylkivska 94) Shooters (Moskovska 22) Amster Damster (V. Vasylkivska 111/113) Veranda na Dnipri (Naberezhne shose 11a) Mayami Bluz (V. Vasylkivska 114)

Sector E Sector G Fairmont hotel (Naberezhno Hreshchatytska 1а) Outpub (Dmytrivska 18/24) Druzi Café (Andriivskiy Descent 2d) Savazh Closer cafe (Nyzhnioyurkivska 31) Belmondo (Hogolivska 17) Kanapa (Andriivskiy Descent 19а) Barcode (Nyzhniy Val 17) Varvar Cafe (Saksaganskoho 108/16) Kanapka Bar (Andriivskiy Descent 30а) Call me cacao (Nyzhniy Val 35) Carribian Club (Symona Petlyury 4) De Pari (Andriivskiy Descent 34v) To be (Verhniy Val 2а) La Vaca Tapas (Symona Petlyury 6) Radisson Blu hotel (Bratska 17/19 ) Habana Restauraunt (Verhniy Val 24) IBIS hotel (Polzunova 6) Piano Café (Kontraktova Ploshcha 4) Lubchik (Vozdvyzhenska 10b) FREEDOM Club Event Hall (Kyrylivska 134) Ohota na ovec (Vozdvyzhenska 10b) Sector F Lumberjack barbershop (Nyzhniy Val 15) РыбаLove (Vozdvyzhenska 21-23) O’Brien’s Irish Pub (Myhailivska 17) Bar Dom (Sagaidachnoho 10/5а) Vozdnyzhensky hotel (Vozdvyzhenska 60) HYATT hotel (Tarasovoyi 5) Riviera hotel (Sagaidachnoho 15) Deficit Yaroslaviv( Val 9) Pauz Cafe (Sofiivska 5) Impresa hotel (Sagaidachnoho 21) Radisson hotel (Yaroslaviv Val 24) Whisky Corner (Sofiivska 16/16) Tuke (Sagaidachnoho 31) Paul (Yaroslaviv Val 26) Knyazhyi grad (V. Zhytomyrska 2) Tarantino Grill & Wine Bar Golden Gate (Yaroslaviv Val 33v) InterContinental hotel (V. Zhytomyrska 2а) (Sagaidachnoho 35) Art of Shkolnyi the Map: Dmytro Where to find What’s On

Sector A Sector B Sector C Smorrebrod (Horodetskogo 4) Biancoro (Baseina 4) Ikra (Honchara 67) Vatra (Horodetskogo 4b) Porto Franco (Baseina 4 ) Naturlikh (Hmelnytskoho 3) Fellini (Horodetskogo 5) Traktyr na Baseyniy (Baseina 2) INK (Hmelnytskoho 17/52 ) Chaikof (Horodetskogo 8/4) Beer house (Baseina 2а) 7 pyatnyc’ (Hmelnytskoho 29/2) Public cafe (Khreshchatyk 1/2) Bar Sklad (Besarabska Ploshcha 2) Opera hotel (Hmelnytskoho 53 ) Dnipro hotel (Khreshchatyk 1/2) Aloft hotel (Esplanadna 17) City hotel (Hmelnytskoho 56) Chiken Kyiv (Khreshchatyk 15) Babai Bar (Pushkinska 2) Pantagruel (Lysenka 1) Mocco (Khreshchatyk 15) Gastro Bar #7 (Pushkinska 9а) Spotykach (Volodymyrska 16) Dom Kofe Passage (Khreshchatyk 15) KO & KO bar (Pushkinska 11) Fish market (Volodymyrska 24a) La Forchetta (Khreshchatyk 16) ProRock (Pushkinska 32) Lemonade (Volodymyrska 29) Bochka (Khreshchatyk 19а) Antwerpen (Pushkinska 38) Le Cosmopolite (Volodymyrska 47) Moon Lounge Bar (Khreshchatyk 24) Podshoffe Brasserie Pushkinska( 45/2) Barkas (Volodymyrska 49а) Shato (Khreshchatyk 24a) Terracotta (Shevchenka bulv. 57/29) Golden Gate (Zolotovoritska 15) Hangover (Hrushevskogo 3) Premiere Palace hotel (Shevchenka bulv. Pache (Kostyolna 3) 57/29) Sector D Tre’s Francais (Kostyolna 3) Hinkalli (Shota Rustaveli 4) Hedonist bar & kitchen (Antonovycha 4) Druzi Cafe (Prorizna 3/5) Beef (Shota Rustaveli 11) IBIS hotel (Shevchenka bulv. 25) Baraban (Prorizna 4а) Alchemist Bar (Shota Rustaveli 12) Hilton hotel (Shevchenka bulv. 30) Sunduk Pub (Prorizna 22) De Bosch (Shota Rustaveli 12) Chachapuri (Shevchenka bulv. 36а) Senator Maidan hotel (Shevchenka ave 8v) Maral bar (Shota Rustaveli 15а) Sunduk Pub (Leontovycha 3) Cafe L’ etage (Shota Rustaveli 16) Like a local wine bar (Lva Tolstoho 5) Dusha Espresso bar (Lva Tolstoho 39) Velur (Lva Tolstoho 41) What’s Up for Grabs All Over snap a pic with WO Kyiv

We’re making it easier than ever to WIN a whole schwack of stuff post to our social networks with WHAT’S ON – all you gotta do is snap a shot of you and your favourite mag – What’s On somewhere in the capital and then with tag #WhatsOnAllOverKyiv throw us the file by email, post it to Facebook, tweet it to Twitter, or upload to Instgram. Just remember to be creative and original! The best photos – and winners – will be announced in the next month’s * printed magazine – FAME AT LAST! Prizes change regularly – announcements for which will be made across all of our social media channels, with multiple possible win- ners each month!! So what are you waiting for Kyiv – get snapping! WIN a prize! First winner will be announced in the next issue!

A smart set of diaries A smart set of leather- bound diaries, which st feature handmade paper from recycled cotton garments and with a fashionable brass lock. They come in two sizes – 9x11 cm and 18x26 cm, and could be all yours! Retail 1 value: 1 100 UAH

Modern Vyshyvanka Win a beautiful featuring the traditional Tree of Life nd embroidery. Made of natural stretch linen, fashionably designed, and richly embroidered, this piece will add a little panache to your Ukrainian wardrobe. Prize worth 1 800 UAH. 2

* Rules: Photos to appear in print must be a high res file, so make sure you set all smart phone settings to AND THE PRIZES GO TO highest possible quality. If others are in the photo with Olexandra Buchno and Svitlana Belogorodka — you, it’s your responsibility to make sure they’re cool our winners for November in the What’s On All Over Kyiv with you submitting the image. i.e. that drunken selfie at a party not always the best choice. Submit entries competition. Congrats! by email to [email protected] or on our social media channels, Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram – just Want to win cool stuff? Take a snap with What’s On use the hashtag #WhatsOnAllOverKyiv. What’s On and post to our FB, Insta, or Twitter accounts – staff choose winners, the final say of which is entirely it’s that easy! at our discretion, with no favouritism given to friends or family.

42 What’s On Issue 16 15 December 2018 - 15 January 2019