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SOUTHERN settler. ‘UkrainianVenice’ You’llalsofindtheso-called andanisolated cityofSwedes. multicultural theme–southernUkraine boastsanAfrican-style safariparkcreated byaGerman animals suchasmink,freshwater otters andmonkseals. Even nature seemstoemphasise the Ukrainian nookofEurope’s largest wetlands,you’llfindmore than300different birdspeciesand threatened –isthatoftheDanubeincountry’sfarsouthwestcorner. Here, inthesmall Odesa; theDnister, estuary–and,sadly,themost 40kmsouthwest.Butthemost spectacular also hometothree majorriver estuaries. The DniproemptiesintotheBlackSea60kmeastof nightlife,wicked it’safavourite break weekend fromthecapitalandis,inmany ways,cooler. is alsoUkraine’scapitalofhedonism.CloserthanCrimeatoKyiv,with sandybeachesanda especially thelargest city,Odesa(OdessainRussian). Entrepreneurial andcosmopolitan,Odesa invited topopulate thearea andsetupbusinessalongthecoasttotrade. Bulgarians, Germans,Greeks, Italians,Moldavians,Russians,Swedesandmanyotherswere the CossacksandthatofCrimeanTatars. UnderCatherine itbecameameltingpot,as ambitiously christened, betweenthedomainof hadbeenaWildWest–styleno-man’s-land hugewealthbyopeningituptotheBlackSea. , ornewRussia,asitwas territorial acquisitionsinthelate 18thcentury, itvastlyexpandedherdominionandbrought This southerly theRussianempress oncehelpedmake Catherine great. ofher As part Україна Південна Ukraine Southern 160 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Southern Ukrainehas,however, more tooffer thanjustOdesa’s This history, coupledwithatemperate climate, hasshapedthecharacter oftheregion today,

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS „ „ „

POPULATION: 4.7 MILLION Spotzebras, bison and flamingosonsafari atthe Charge throughremote Bessarabiato thecanalsandbird-infested waterways around madnessatthefamous Witness market Imbibe culture atthefamous Doasummerclub-crawlat therestaurants Hit inandaround Odesa’scentral Enjoyamovie momentonOdesa’smassive Vylkovo Pryvoz Market vul Derybasivska Potemkin Steps Bazaar Beach ( p178 Philharmonic Orchestra Theatre ( p179) ( p173 ) orthemuch-lauded (p184 ) ) and (p173) ( p173 ) 7-Kilometres (p179) Arkadia Opera andBallet

Odessa „ HIGHEST POINT : NOTHING OVER200M Askaniya Nova Reserve Vylkovo Odesa joie devivre Askaniya Nova ( p182) Reserve and attitude: it’s andattitude:it’s invited tomake theirfortune here when with its sunny climate, self-confidence and with itssunnyclimate, self-confidence alsoattracted ordinaryholiday-makersOdesa major Mafia –itisstillthelatter – stronghold the worldasingular, subversive nature. gaveinhabitants Russia’ssouthern windowon theGreat. new by Russia’sCatherine These wasfoundedinthelate 18thcentury Odesa streets. leafy sical buildingsliningageometrical gridof acters makes merryamongpastel neoclas- castof them,acosmopolitan char-Behind andUkraine’sbiggest commercial port. Sea Potemkin StepsdowntotheBlack sweep energetic, decadentboomtown.Itsfamous fromliterature isacitystraight Odesa –an million % lonelyplanet.com roads makes upforthatwith panache.sheer cross- thisEast–West However, nightclubs. towardsitsbeachsideempty sanatoriums asyouheadsouthpasthalf- grows tattier beaches.sandy True,thecity’sappearance ODESA SOUTHERN UKRAINE Braila Birlad As wellasbecomingaduty-free portanda Immigrants fromallover Europewere Galati 048 (7-digitNos),0482(6-digitNos)/pop one Podilsky Mohyliv- M14 Kahul A283 ROMANIA Lake E583 ОДЕСА Yampil Reni MOLDOVA Izmayil Yalluh Lake SOUTHERNUKRAINE••Odesa Tulcea Chi M4 Dub©u Basarabyaska

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a Zdoro A r k 13 vya a d i 61 Lanzheron a B e 30 a c Beach Trassa Zdorovya h 20 22 Otrada Beach Preobrazhensky Cathedral Cathedral Preobrazhensky Continental Continental Museum of Western & Eastern Art Museum of &Eastern Western Oceanarium Literature Museum Tropicana Club Club Tropicana Duke...... Catherine the Great Statue the Catherine ...... Beach Arkadia -o ...... X-Box Richelieu Statue Statue Richelieu City Garden City Garden Litera Litera J@m...... 44) ...... (see Center Business European ...... Travel Eugenia Russian Consulate Tyoshchyn Most Most Tyoshchyn Odessa Fine Arts Museum Romanian Consulate Consulate Romanian Pushkin Museum Museum Pushkin Panteleymonivsky Church Church Panteleymonivsky Beach Otrada Black Sea Hotel Pryvoz Passazh Arcade Shopping Pushkin Statue Statue Pushkin Ship Museum Pelikan Tour Tour Pelikan Potemkin Steps Steps Potemkin Vorontsov PalaceVorontsov Turkish Consulate Consulate Turkish ...... Salix Chairlift Otradato Beach Office Post Central Black Sea Hotel Odessa Odessa Hotel Sea Black 36) ...... (see Center Business American SLEEPING Bulgarian Consulate ...... Shop Book INFORMATION City Hall Archaeology Museum Archaeology Museum SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Central Vokzal Apartment Bureau лж Отрада пляжу Одесса Море Черное Гостиница дворец Воронцовский Мост Тёщин Тропикана Клуб флота морского Музей Ришелье Памятник Пушкину Памятник Пушкина Музей собор Преображенский ступеньки Потёмкинские Пассаж церковь Пантелеймоновская музей Художественный искусства Восточного и западного Музей музей Литературный к дорога Канатная Екатерине Памятник музей Археологический Турції Консульство России Консульство Руминії Консульство Болгарії Консульство етаьы вокзал Центральный бюро Квартирное Привоз Море Черное Гостиница Літера оосо совет Городской ...... (see 44) ...... (see ...... оосо сад Городской Континенталь Океанариум еиа Тур Пеликан ...... (see 65) ...... (see лжОтрада Пляж ...... Почта ...... - ...... G ...... I...... II ...... 25 21 33 23 24 35 26 18 19 17 29 37 36 12 28 10 27 31 14 32 16 11 34 13 15 30 20 22 9 5 3 1 4 7 6 8 2 A2 A1 A2 A2 A3 A1 C5 C5 C2 C6 C3 C2 C3 C2 C2 B3 C3 C2 C2 C2 C2 C4 C5 B1 B1 B2 B1 B2 B2 B6 F3 F6 E2 E3 F3 F3 F6 Passazh Hotel Hotel Yunost Hotel Yunost Galereya Afina SHOPPING Praetoria MusicClub...... Praetoria (Buses (Buses to ...... Pl Hretska Stop Bus Airport) (see74) Sky Travel...... London Captain Morgan...... Captain Khevron Khevron (see49) Kasylysa...... ue oAkda...... Arkadia Buses to ucnla...... Pulcinella Hotel Frapolli...... Ibiza Art Club Exit...... Club Art DRINKING Pizzara...... Zara Odessa Philharmonic Hall Itaka Turkuaz Turkuaz Sandwich Top Sandwich Top Arkadia Tram Stop TRANSPORT Pryvoz Market Market Pryvoz Sea Port (Morskoy Vokzal) Sea Port Teatralna Kasa ...... Mozes Fat EATING Station...... Train Pryvoz Bus Station Station Bus Pryvoz Hotel Palladium (see44) ...... Rent-A-Flat Odessa 37) Hostel...... (see Odessa Pr Oleksandrivsky Food Stands.. Food Oleksandrivsky Pr Kumanets Hotel Londonskaya Hotel Londonskaya Hotel Oktyabrskaya Top Sandwich Sandwich Top Opera and Ballet Theatre Cosmo ENTERTAINMENT Klarabara Mick O'Neill's Irish Bar Bar Irish O'Neill's Mick (see56) Beer...... and Friends Palladium Palladium Odessa Philharmonic Orchestra Pobeda Pobeda Tram Stop (trams to Arkadia) ..... Arkadia) to (trams Stop Tram Arman Tours...... Arman Mozart Hotel Kiy Avia...... (see40) Europcar...... Centre Buses to Tavriya Tavriya саок Аркадия остановка а и О’Нилз Мик бар аее Афина Галерея касса Театральная балета и оперы Театр филармонии оркестр Одесский филармония Одесская Пассаж Гостиница Палладиум Гостиница Моцарт Гостиница Юность Гостиница Октябрьская Гостиница Лондонская Гостиница осо Вокзал Морской Автвокзал Привоз Ибиза Итака Космо Таврія Победа Туркуаз Хеврон Кларабара Палладиум Куманець ...... о Сендвич Топ Сендвич Топ Сендвич Топ рвзбазар Привоз ...... (see 65) (see65) ...... 0 0 ...... (see 62) 62) (see ...... (see 37) 37) (see ...... Трамвайная ...... (see 38) 38) (see ...... Ирландский ...... (see 56) (see56) ...... (see 43) (see43) ...... H ...... 43 40 68 71 56 45 42 39 47 63 62 75 74 70 69 55 58 54 53 52 66 65 73 44 64 72 51 49 48 38 57 46 50 67 41 59 61 60 0.1 miles D6 D3 D6 A2 A2 C3 C6 C2 C2 C4 C2 C3 C6 C1 C6 C2 B3 B3 B2 B3 B2 B2 B3 B2 B6 B3 B6 B3 B2

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