Magazine of National Parks Association of

Paradise Adrift Commercial developments in national parks PLUS Scientists urge rethink on ’s Marine Park Plans ALSO FEATURED

Barron Gorge NP lower section Issue 17 October-November 2017 Bridled Nailtail Wallaby 1 Contents From the President ������������������������� 3 Barron Gorge National Park lower FROM THE PRESIDENT Paradise adrift ������������������������������� 4 section, via Speewah...... 10 Bridled Nailtail Wallaby...... 12 Sceintists urge rethink on Australia’s Marine Park plans �������������������������� 6 The National Park Experience...... 13 Daintree National Park �������������������� 8 Spotlight: Ranger of the Month...... 14 What’s On / Vale...... 15

Editorial team Advertising enquiries Jeannie Rice and Marika Strand. Please email [email protected] or phone (07) 3367 0878. Graeme Bartrim Contributor guidelines Advertising policy President, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) NPAQ invites contributions to Protected Advertisements are required to align with articles. Please email [email protected] for a relevant NPAQ policies. NPAQ reserves the The National Parks Association schedule of future editions. right to refuse any advertisement at any time. Advertisement in Protected does not imply of Queensland has an impressive Contributors, please include contact details NPAQ’s endorsement of products or services. history and has achieved much for its and brief personal summary. Articles can be members, supporters and for state submitted via email or hard copy. Digital photos Copyright and disclaimer conservation. should be minimum 300dpi. NPAQ retains copyright of Protected. Articles With the recent changing of Cover image may be quoted provided that appropriate councillors it is timely to recognise acknowledgement occurs in the reproduction the significant contributions made by Cape Tribulation section, Daintree National and use of material. Park. Michelle Prior, Tony O’Brien, Graham Photo: Marika Strand Articles in Protected do not necessarily reflect Riddell, Athol Lester and Richard NPAQ’s opinion or position. Proudfoot. Their passion for national parks and hard work in consolidating the Association and focusing on About NPAQ its objectives is obvious and much Mission statement appreciated. The National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ) For those councillors continuing and promotes the preservation, expansion and good to those members taking up positions management of national parks in Queensland. for the first time, your commitment is Council Staff valued. Clockwise from top: Rex Creek at Mossman Gorge, Daintree National Park; Cape Tribulation, Daintree National Park. President Graeme Bartrim Business Development Officer Marika Strand National parks are a comparatively PHOTOS: MARIKA STRAND Vice Presidents Yvonne Parsons Conservation Officer Laura Hahn new concept having a history of 145 Geoff Miller Project & Office Administrator Jeannie Rice years. The United States Congress parks were recognized as eloquently Land use conflicts are common and Hon Treasurer Neil Williams established the first national park in stated in the Act that created the US political and economic decisions are Hon Secretary Debra Marwedel 1872 at Yellowstone. National Parks Service in 1916: “... often heavily influenced by perceived Asst Hon Secretary Jacqueline Rose’Meyer Contact details Locally, Royal National Park was purpose is to conserve the scenery short term benefits (as Michelle Prior Councillors David Ball Office Unit 10/36 Finchley St, Milton established in NSW in 1879, at Belair of the natural and historic objects and stated in the last issue of Protected, Suzanne Cooper Post PO Box 1040, Milton QLD 4064 in in 1891, and at the wildlife therein and to provide for the state budget for national parks Julie Hainsworth Phone (07) 3367 0878 Wilson’s Promontory in in the enjoyment of the same in such focused heavily on enhancing tourist Daniel Kelly Web www.npaq.org.au 1898 - all prior to Australia’s federation. a manner and by such means as access with not much consideration Denis McMullen Email [email protected] will leave them unimpaired for the Queensland’s first national park was remaining for protecting/enhancing Alexsis Wilson ABN 60 206 792 095 dedicated at Witches Falls in 1908. enjoyment of future generations”. long term natural values of parks). The vision of those who worked for Since these times there have been Want to get involved with NPAQ? It seems that we are in a period and supported these early national other periods of focus on and growth NPAQ welcomes people from all walks of life and offers a variety of ways to be involved: where short term thinking dominates parks is impressive. in the national park estate with vision • Have fun in the bush – come • Step up – become a National • Connect with us – Facebook, our decisions. The 24-hour news These declarations were made at and much hard work applied. along on a bush walk or Parks Conservation member Instagram and Twitter cycle, 3-4 year election cycles, annual other activity or a National Parks Protector • Stay in touch – read regular a time when human numbers were Today, there is fierce competition budgets and annual reports govern • Get your hands dirty – • Donate – support our work updates on our website much smaller then now (the US for land resources as evidenced by a our thinking. We need a return to long participate in on-ground • Volunteer on exciting projects • Share a bush adventure with approximately 76 million and Australia tenure/leasehold map of Queensland. conservation efforts term thinking for future generations and • Subscribe to Protected and children – download NPAQ’s 4 million around 1900), and human Most of the state is overlain by one • Join us – become a member Neck of the Woods via email Kids in National Parks guide maintaining the diversity of species induced changes to the landscape and at times overlapping resource or were much less significant than today. with whom we share the planet. SUPPORT NPAQ AND HELP MAKE A DIFFERENCE other tenures which convey resource BECOME A MEMBER, DONATE OR VOLUNTEER The long term values of national rights. www.npaq.org.au/get-involved www.facebook.com/NPAQld @nationalparksassocqld @NPA_Qld

2 Connect and Protect 3 PARADISE ADRIFT

Commercial developments in national parks

Michelle Prior Immediate Past President, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ)

To most people, the gazettal of by - allowing excision of parts of Great expansion and reconstruction in 1995, national park land implies protection Barrier Reef island national parks for following the Global Financial Crash forever, something safeguarded and private tourism development. This (GFC) in 2008, Cyclone Ului in 2010 cherished. Not as a land bank for places private interests above the public and Cyclone Yasi on 2011, Club Med private developers, something to be interest, and potentially contravenes resort closed in 2012 – citing a post chipped away, a lease here and a lease the management principles for national GFC tourism downturn and cyclone there, followed by a revocation. parks set out in the Nature Conservation damage among the causes. Act 1992. A proposal for Lindeman Island by Tourism resorts in Queensland are an White Horse Australia Lindeman Pty, Whilst being well aware of the value uncertain proposition. In 1997, Dunk, currently before the Coordinator- of tourism to the Queensland economy, Bedarra and Brampton Island resorts General, includes: and the dire state of several defunct were sold well below the asking price. island resorts, NPAQ calls for smarter, In 1998, Lindeman, Daydream, South • redevelopment and expansion of the sustainable long term thinking and Molle and Hook Islands were amongst existing resort to include a 5-star planning that showcases the Great a string of Queensland tourist resorts Beach Resort, 6 star Spa Resort, a Barrier Reef island national parks. There sold for a fraction of development cost 5 star Eco Resort and Tourist Villa has been a lengthy history of economic – reflecting uncertainty in the tourism Precincts; failure, extensive damage from market and a hangover of poor business • facilities including a conference cyclones, high cost of construction and decisions in the 1980s. In 2011, centre, beach club, restaurants and operation on island resorts highlighted cyclone damaged Dunk and Bedarra lounges; by the current existence of several Islands were sold at a low price. In • a central village precinct comprising derelict resorts on Great Barrier Reef 2012, Lindeman Island was again sold restaurants, bar, night club, islands. for a lower than expected price. conference facility buildings, arrival Increasing the development footprint In 2016, only 13 out of 24 resorts on centre, shops, sport and recreation on a national park island in the Great leasehold land in the Great Barrier Reef centre and a staff village; Barrier Reef requires very careful were open. Nine of the remaining 11 The lease expires in October 2019, and revocation from the national park estate. consideration, strategic planning, were planning redevelopment, and the is subject to a further 30 years. • expansion of the current services If approved, the current Lindeman References stringent approval conditions and other two were subject to negotiation for area; Queenslanders do not take kindly Island resort expansion proposal would effective compliance enforcement. their future. Department of the Environment and Energy • existing airstrip and golf course to proposals to revoke sections of allow the: Species Profile and Threats Database Littoral upgrades; Developers have long been proposing As with several other national park national parks, particularly for private Rainforest and Coastal Vine Thickets of Eastern significant expansion of development • revocation of 36.9 ha of national Australia, listed 2008, accessed on 1st island resort leases (Hinchinbrook, commercial purposes. Doing so sends September 2017. • upgrade to the existing jetty and on Lindeman Island on the grounds of Brampton, Hook Islands), Lindeman a clear message to developers – that park tenure; additional moorings; economic viability: Island resort has now been out of Queensland national parks are not • loss of 40% of the only Endangered Holland, R. (2016). ‘Queensland launches plan to revive rundown Great Barrier Reef resorts’. • ecotourism facilities - a National Park • 1986 (unsuccessful proposed operation for an extended period of in fact protected, but are a saleable Broad- Tea Tree community Domain Media. August 1, 2016. and Great Barrier Reef Educational time (five years) – leaving defunct and commodity. Sadly, this has occurred (Melaleuca viridiflora) on the revocation and sale of 390 ha NPAQ Archives: The Ruth Read Historical Centre and 30 “glamping” facilities national park land for resort deteriorating tourism assets on state before. In 1961, the Nicklin (Country Whitsunday Islands Group; and Collection. located within the national park; owned land. This is an unacceptable Party) Government revoked Hayman development, marinas, high • substantially reduced buffers situation, particularly given that several Island National Park for a tourism Queensland Parliamentary Debates [Hansard] • the “rearrangement” of lease rise hotels, jet airstrip and (1961). Legislative Assembly, Wednesday 27 leases are excised out of national lease. At the time, the then Minister for between Critically Endangered boundaries, including revocation condominiums); September 1961. pp 516-546. park land in the first instance and are Agriculture and Forestry (responsible Coastal Vine Thicket and resort of part of the Lindeman Islands • 1987 (unsuccessful proposal for a located within the Great Barrier Reef for national parks) stated: “….if a case development and activities. Threatened Species Scientific Committee National Park. major resort development on two (2015). Approved Conservation Advice for the World Heritage Area. Yet the only arises where the progress of the State A more efficient and compact design Littoral Rainforest and Coastal Vine Thickets leases of national park land); Lindeman Island is a part of the response by the tourism sector and will be enhanced by excising a small of the resort avoids most of these of Eastern Australia ecological community. Department of the Environment. Lindeman Group of islands that form • 1988/89 (30-year lease of 60 ha State government is perpetuating area of national park we will not hesitate impacts. NPAQ calls on the Minister Lindeman Islands National Park. It was of national park issued for an 18- this sad cycle of ‘building better and to excise it”. for National Parks and the Great Barrier Unknown (2015). “Queensland’s tourism proclaimed as a national park in 1941, hole golf course, as the existing bigger’, followed by ruin amidst natural industry damaged by dilapidated resorts” News. The proposal also sets in train a Reef, to reject the proposed revocation com.au, June 8, 2015. and is a Great Barrier Reef national park golf course was required for extra splendour. dangerous snowball effect – a lease is of 36.9 ha of national park land on within the Whitsundays in the Great accommodation – to NPAQ’s The section of national park proposed granted within a national park for tourism Lindeman Island, and avoid direct and Barrier Reef World Heritage Area. knowledge, only a 9 hole golf course for revocation is currently a rolling term purposes, the land is subsequently indirect impacts to sensitive vegetation Images: Lindeman Island and existing resort If approved in its current form, the was constructed. lease which commenced in November degraded, then both the lease and communities, by ensuring a more development proposal would revert to days gone Although Club Med undertook a major 1989 for the purpose of a golf course. degradation are used as arguments for efficient and compact project design. PHOTOS: MACKAY CONSERVATION GROUP 4 5 MORE THAN 1,200 SCIENTISTS URGE RETHINK ON AUSTRALIA’S MARINE PARK PLANS

Jessica Meeuwig, Professor & Director, Marine Futures Lab, University of

The following is a statement from The government’s 2013 Review of is not supported by science. The the Ocean Science Council of the Australian Marine Parks Network government’s own economic analyses Australia, an internationally recognised had the potential to address these also indicate that such a reduction independent group of university-based flaws and strengthen protection. in protection offers little more than Australian marine researchers, and However, the draft management plans marginal economic benefits to a very signed by 1,286 researchers from have proposed severe reductions small number of commercial fishery 45 countries and jurisdictions, in in high-level protection of almost licence-holders. response to the federal government’s 400,000 square kilometres – that is, draft marine parks plans. 46% of the high-level protection in the marine parks established in 2012. Retrograde step Commercial fishing would be This retrograde step by Australia’s We, the undersigned scientists, are allowed in 80% of the waters within government is a matter of both deeply concerned about the future of the marine parks, including activities national and international significance. the Australian Marine Parks Network assessed by the government’s own Australia has been a world leader in and the apparent abandoning of risk assessments as incompatible marine conservation for decades, science-based policy by the Australian with conservation. Recreational beginning with the establishment government. fishing would occur in 97% of of the Great Barrier Reef Marine On July 21, 2017, the Australian Commonwealth waters up to 100km Park in the 1970s and its expanded government released draft from the coast, ignoring the evidence protection in 2004. management plans that recommend documenting the negative impacts At a time when oceans are how the Marine Parks Network should Proposed Coral Sea Marine Park zoning, as recommended by independent review (left) and in the new draft plan of recreational fishing on under increasing pressure from (right), showing the proposed expansion of partial protection (yellow) vs full protection (green). From http://www. be managed. These plans are deeply outcomes. overexploitation, climate change, environment.gov.au/marinereservesreview/reports and https://parksaustralia.gov.au/marine/management/draft-plans/ flawed from a science perspective. Under the draft plans: industrialisation, and plastics and and US to establish very large no-take of Marine National Park Zone IUCN 2016 World Conservation Congress in Of particular concern to scientists other forms of pollution, building • The Coral Sea Marine Park, which marine reserves. In stark contrast, the II protection and to do so on the Hawaii. is the government’s proposal to resilience through highly protected links the iconic Great Barrier Reef implementation of the government’s back of strong evidence. In contrast, significantly reduce high-level or “no- Marine National Park IUCN II Zones Marine Park to the waters of New draft management plans would see implementation of the government’s take” protection (Marine National Park is well supported by decades of You can read a fully referenced Caledonia’s Exclusive Economic Australia become the first nation to retrograde draft management plans Zone IUCN II), replacing it with partial science. This research documents version of the science statement Zone (also under consideration retreat on ocean protection. undermines ocean resilience and protection ( Protection Zone how high-level protection conserves (http://oceansciencecouncil. for protection), has had its Marine would allow damaging activities to IUCN IV), the benefits of which are at biodiversity, enhances fisheries and Australia’s oceans are a global org/statement/), and see the National Park Zones (IUCN II) proceed in the absence of proof of best modest but more generally have assists recovery, serving asset, spanning tropical, temperate list of signatories here (http:// reduced in area by approximately impact, ignoring the fact that a lack been shown to be inadequate. as essential reference areas against and Antarctic waters. They support of evidence does not mean a lack of oceansciencecouncil.org/wp-content/ 53% (see map below) six of the seven known species of uploads/2017/07/OSCA-science- The 2012 expansion of Australia’s which areas that are subject to human impact. These draft plans deny the • Six of the largest marine parks marine turtles and more than half statement-2017_09_20.pdf). Marine Parks Network was a major activity can be compared to assess science-based evidence. have had the area of their Marine of the world’s whale and dolphin step forward in the conservation impact. We encourage the Australian National Park Zones IUCN II species. Australia’s oceans are home of marine biodiversity, providing The establishment of a strong government to increase the number reduced by between 42% and to more than 20% of the world’s fish This article was originally published on protection to and ecological backbone of high-level protection and area of Marine National Park IUCN The Conversation. Read the original 73% species and are a hotspot of marine processes critical to marine life. within Marine National Park Zones II Zones, building on the large body of article (https://theconversation.com/ endemism. By properly protecting However, there were flaws in the • Two marine parks have been throughout Australia’s Exclusive science that supports such decision- more-than-1-200-scientists-urge- them, Australia will be supporting location of the parks and their planned entirely stripped of any high-level Economic Zone would be a making. This means achieving a target rethink-on--marine-park- the maintenance of our global ocean protection levels, with barely 3% of protection, leaving 16 of the 44 scientifically based contribution of at least 30% of each marine habitat plans-84366) heritage. the continental shelf, the area subject marine parks created in 2012 to the protection of intact marine in these zones, which is supported without any form of Marine National The finalisation of the Marine Parks by Australian and international marine to greatest human use, afforded globally. Such protection Banner image: Scott Ruzzene on Unsplash high-level protection status, and Park IUCN II protection. is consistent with the move by many Network remains a remarkable scientists and affirmed by the 2014 most of that of residual importance to The replacement of high-level countries, including Chile, France, opportunity for the Australian World Parks Congress in Sydney and biodiversity. protection with partial protection Kiribati, New Zealand, Russia, the UK government to strengthen the levels the IUCN Members Assembly at the 6 7 PARK IN F CUS Daintree National Park

Dr David Tng and Dr Deborah Apgaua James Cook University

The Daintree has garnered the alexandrae), and the 2-4m tall sedge nutrients via parasitic connections. found here, including the endangered The idiot is so named because wide variety of mammals such as the Daintree gardenia (Gardenia botanists were perplexed by the 3 Bennett’s tree kangaroo, bandicoots, reputation for being “Where the (Scirpodendron ghaeri), with its long Palm trees are a conspicuous actinocarpa). This understorey shrub or 4 compartments (seed or echidnas, sugar gliders, possums, rainforest meets the reef”. But what is saw-edged leaves. component of the canopy and has large white showy and ) of the large seed. At quolls, antechinuses, platypuses, actually so special and unique about Towards the sea, the soils become midstorey. The Daintree is famous for interesting ribbed . that time, taxonomic classification phascogales, pademelons, rare bats the Daintree? sandier and better drained. Mangroves fan palms (Licuala ramsayi), which in of flowering was based on and rats. and swamp forests are replaced some places dominate the canopy. Nearby Noah Creek is habitat for While the Australian Wet Tropics whether they had either one (mono-) by littoral forests and sandy beach Black palms (Normanbya normanbyi) Noah (Creek) tree (Noahdendron Over 20 species of reptilies inhabit is famous for rainforest, this article or two (di-) cotyledons. The closest vegetation. This is some of the common only in the Daintree, have nicholasii). Noahdendron produces a the Daintree, including the estuarine will examine what is found within the relatives of this tree are found in the most untouched tropical beach one of the hardest wood of all palm pendant spike of pink flowers, and is a crocodile, saw-shelled turtle, various rainforests of the Daintree that makes warm temperate zones of America and forest vegetation in the world, with species. Tree ferns (Cyathea spp.) tropical relative of the witch hazels. You species of snakes, the lace monitor, the place truly extraordinary. eastern Asia. Alexandrian Laurels (Calophyllum and tree cycads add texture to the will also find the rare Noah’s tamarind Boyd’s forest dragon, and almost Forest Fairyland inophyllum), Beach Barringtonias rainforest understorey. (Lepiderema hirsuta), a native relative Another group of “primitive” plants are 20 species of skinks. Among the The Daintree National Park is divided of the lychee. It has marvellous sprays the laurel family. In the Daintree, the skinks, the Thornton Peak Calyptotis (Barringtonia asiatica) and Coastal Other lifeforms make use of the into two sections: the southern of purple leaves during the growing Noah’s walnut (Endiandra microneura), (Calyptotis thorntonensis) has a very She-oaks (Casuarina equisetifolia) spaces beneath the canopy. Lianas section, comprising the Mossman season. While upstream along Noah Cooper Creek walnut (E. cooperana), restricted distribution to an area on dominating. Out on more exposed such as blood vines (Austrosteenisia Gorge area, and the northern Cape Creek, is the habitat of the Daintree and Gray’s walnut (E. grayi) are Thornton Peak. coastal rocky locations, such as Cape spp.) with monstrous twisted stems, Tribulation section, bound roughly by pine (Gymnostoma australianum), a found nowhere else. Closely related Tribulation, coastal woodlands exist and “wait-a-while” climbing palms with Amphibians of the Daintree are the Daintree river in the south, and the relative of the coastal she-oak. to the laurels is the Cooper Creek amongst the gum and bloodwood their recurved spiky tendrils, are in perhaps the most vulnerable. Around Bloomfield river in the north. Haplostichanthus (Haplostichanthus 25 species of frogs are found in the trees. abundance. Cooper Creek is habitat for the ramiflorus), a shrub of the rainforest national park, and many of these are This article focuses on the northern However, the rainforest is where the endangered satinash tree ( The filtered light of the forest floor glenum). This little-known satinash is understorey. This species, like other confined to the higher mountain areas, section. true treasures of the Daintree lie. provides habitat for understorey herbs, a large, multiple-stemmed tree with members of the custard apple family where the effects of climate change Getting to the Cape Tribulation In the humid lowland rainforests of native gingers, leafless root parasites, brownish pear-shaped fruits. Unlike (Annonaceae), still uphold an ancient may bear down on them harshly. section of Daintree National Park is a the Daintree, the most conspicuous ferns and mosses. While scattered other satinashes, the fruits of S. alliance with , to help pollinate For the small area it occupies, the 1.5hr scenic drive from , to the lifeforms are trees. Tall hardwood trees around, the seedlings of giant trees glenum are hard and leathery, and their flowers. Daintree National Park ranks among crossing at the Daintree River. After a of red tulip oak, red cedar, spurwood lay in wait of the demise and fall of a probably not particularly edible. The Animal refuge one of the most diverse spots on short barge trip across the river, the and black bean may tower over nearby tree to release them from their tree is found in only a single population earth, not just in species, but also world of everyday life peels away, and 45m, some with tall plank buttresses shade-imposed dwarfism. Athough few animals are restricted in Cooper Creek with only a few in the range of habitats that can be a forest fairyland realm begins. characteristic of tropical trees. to the Daintree, the forests and the Botanical Ark mature trees. Another endangered encountered within a short distance. The Daintree River is home to 31 Outsizing these, are the giant canopy Xanthostemon formosus, a little mountain ranges within Daintree The Daintree is a botanical paradise. Indeed, the Daintree rainforests species of mangroves (almost half of emergents of Milky Pines (Alstonia known relative of the native golden National Park represent an important Over 1500 species of land plants represent Australia’s last bastion of all mangrove species in the world). scholaris), and colossal strangler figs. penda (Xanthostemon chrysanthus) refuge for many of these species. are found just within this small area. what used to cover a much larger part The Daintree mangroves also harbour is also found here. Both the Cooper Sightings of the endangered and The yellow mahogany ( Around 30 such species are found of the tropics. Creek penda and the golden penda flightless cassowary are something a wide variety of mangrove-associated parasiticum) and bumpy satinash nowhere else in the world. plants, such as orchids and other (Syzygium cormiflorum) present occur in similar environments beside to look forward to, as are the more Some of these very rare and rivers and streams. Banner: Cape Tribulation, Daintree National Park. interesting epiphytic Myrmecodia another archetype of tropical forests than 400 species of birds that live Inset: and seed of Idiospermum australiense. endangered species are restricted ant-plants (plants with adaptations for – the curious bearing of flowers The Wet Tropics is also famous for here. The Daintree is also home to a PHOTOS: MARIKA STRAND; DR DAVID TNG & DR to single localities, typically along DEBORAH APGAUA housing ants) that hang from the trunks and fruits on their trunks, known as its’“primitive” or “ancient” plants. These waterways. These pockets of refugia of the mangrove trees. cauliflory. species are primitive in the sense that References Rupert, R. (1986) Daintree, Where the Rainforest would have been established in Meets the Reef, Our Last Paradise at Risk. Kevin The mangrove forests transition into Epiphytes such as birds nest ferns, they are representatives of early seed- Craven, L. A. (2003). Four new species of Syzygium Weldon Production, Australia. historical periods, when the general () from Australia. Blumea, 48, 479-488. freshwater swamp forest where salt elk horn ferns, tassel ferns and orchids bearing plants. Tng, D. Y. P., et al. (2016) Vegetation and floristics climate of the region may have been Edwards, W. et al. (2001). Idiosyncratic of a lowland tropical rainforest in northeast Australia. water does not infiltrate, but soils live in the tall branches or trunks of more hostile. With this in mind, the Daintree phenomenon of regeneration from cotyledons in Biodiversity Data Journal, 4, e7599. doi: 10.3897/ are still poorly drained. Here you will their arboreal hosts. Some epiphytes has a fair share of “primitives”. The the idiot fruit tree, Idiospermum australiense. Austral BDJ.4.e7599. The Daintree is a literal botanical ark! Ecology, 26, 254-258. find giant weeping paperbark trees climb up the trees towards the light, idiot fruit (Idiospermum australiense) Tracey, J. G. (1982). Vegetation of the humid Prider, J. N., & Christophel, D. C. (2000). tropical region of north Queensland. CSIRO. (Melaleuca leucadendra), grand using their roots to hold onto the bark A place to observe such species, is for example, belongs to the Distributional ecology of Gymnostoma australianum screwpines (Pandanus spp.), colonies of their hosts. While other tree dwellers the Marrdja Botanical Walk along Oliver plant family that (Casuarinaceae), a putative palaeoendemic of Wilson, P. G. (1990). A revision of the Australian wet tropic forests. Australian Journal of Xanthostemon (Myrtaceae) in Australia. Telopea, 3, of Alexandra Palms (Archontophoenix tap into their hosts’ vascular system for Creek. A number of rare plants are arose very early in plant evolution. , 48, 427-434. 451-476. 8 9 FEATURED WALK Barron Gorge National Park lower section, via Speewah Conservation Park

Travis Teske Tablelands Bushwalking Club

Barron Gorge National Park extends After the Gandal wandun junction from the coast to the Atherton Location it is another 1.75km to the Glacier Tablelands and is part of the Wet Barron Gorge National Park and Rock turn off. Here the track becomes Tropics World Heritage Area. The adjacent Speewah Conservation Park rocky and steeper and the vegetation Traditional Owners of the area are the changes to a drier bushland. The turn Recommended access Djabugay Aboriginal people. off is to the right. After 260m is the Speewah camp ground, lookout from Glacier Rock. From here Speewah Conservation Park Smith Tracks Road, Speewah (15.2ha) is on land donated to the there are views over Stoney Creek, Queensland Parks and Wildlife Grade Mount Whitfield and the coastline Services by Ron and Pam Elgar in Moderate over the Coral Sea. It is possible to also see parts of the Cairns Kuranda 2004 and is adjacent to Barron Gorge Time allowance National Park. railway and see and hear the tourist Five hours (return) train if the timing is right. It is the nearest camping area to Barron Gorge National Park. Highlights Then retrace your steps to the The amenities block is wheelchair Views over the northern beaches of junction of the Gandal wandun track accessible and has cold showers. Cairns from Glacier Rock. Walking and follow it for 2.875km to reach through tropical rainforest with There are also two gas barbecues. A Cadagi Corner. Once again this track specimens of cadagi trees and tall passes through rainforest with some camping permit is required. kauri pines. undulations but nothing too taxing. The closest town with all amenities Cadagi Corner is so named because Clockwise from top: The rainforest in Barron Gorge National Park; the view from Glacier Rock; a kauri pine. PHOTOS: TRAVIS TESKE is Kuranda, just 40 minutes northwest of the cadagi trees (Corymbia from the information board at the and lichen and moss fields. the stinging tree (more of a low bush). Surprise Creek is very pretty. from Cairns. Speewah has a tavern torelliana) growing there, which are Speewah camping area car park to Contact with this bush will leave a and small grocery store. easily recognised by their smooth Be aware that often trees, vines or • Douglas Track (5km one way) – the Douglas Track. It is an easy walk very painful sting. Access to the walks in this part of green trunks. wait-a-while tendrils can come down From Stoney Creek (a good place through the rainforest along a well- Walks can be done at any time but the national park are via Speewah Head back to the Speewah camping before a ranger can clear the track. to visit and swim) the Douglas defined track, over boardwalks and a the wet season makes it more difficult trailhead gradually climbs through Conservation Park. Ample car parking area car park along the Smiths Track. Near the start of the walk there is an bridge until you reach the junction of with slippery, wet boardwalks, tree is available at the trail head. There are The first 1.1km section of this track is rainforest on part of the historic the Douglas and Smiths tracks. All of information sign and a warning about roots and rocks. no toilet facilities or water points on an old logging track which ascends construction track of the Cairns these junctions are well signposted the tracks. gradually. Keep an eye out for the Walkers could spend several days to Kuranda Railway. There are with distances to the next junction. All the walking tracks in this section stately kauri pines (Agathis robusta) camping at Speewah Conservation remains of a stone-pitched wall The Douglas and Smiths tracks are of the park are through tropical which are also easily recognised by Park and exploring the day tracks in and an old mango tree where a rainforest which feature cadagi trees early historic tracks which lead from their trunks. The track passes through the area. Because there are many bridge crosses over the railway (Corymbia torelliana), kauri pine the coast to the tablelands behind the park boundary gate then turns tracks in this area, you can attempt line. If the timing is right, wave to (Agathis robusta) and wait-a-while Cairns. right and it is a further 2.1km back to shorter or longer circuits, ranging from the train passengers below as (Acacia cuspidifolia). If you are Continue along the Douglas track the car park. easy to moderate, depending on your they travel up to Kuranda. The soil level of fitness. lucky you may see possums, tree- and after 2km there is a junction for This is a pleasant 5-hour walk, turns to a red clay as the track kangaroos, birds, butterflies and the the Gandal wandun track. Pass by including stops to eat. Take your time Other walks of interest in the area continues upwards via a series of southern cassowary. this for the moment. This part of the to enjoy the rainforest and listening to include: switchbacks in open country to the junction with the McDonalds track There are many different tracks in track is undulating but nothing too the birds calling. • McDonalds track (4.8km one way) and then onto Glacier Rock. this area. All are signposted with their steep. There are some dry gullies to Wear sturdy walking shoes and bring – This is a moderate track with names and distances. A sign board cross. Care does need to be taken in ample water. Pack food if you want some steep sections and links and map at the entrance details this area due to exposed tree roots. an unhurried day’s walk. A camera Wrights Lookout to the Douglas The author has endeavoured to ensure the tracks and distances. Many of They can become slippery if there is Track. There are views over Barron that the information presented here is as is always handy for that unexpected accurate as possible. However, they or the walk names acknowledge the moisture about. Along this section shot. There are often wonderful sights Gorge and Barron Falls, as well as Aboriginal history of this area. NPAQ do not accept responsibility for any many cassowary droppings can be of fungi sprouting from the fallen to the coast, where the trail meets loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by The first section, Djina-Wu, is 765m seen. rotting timber, amazing bark textures the Douglas Track. The crossing of any person guided by this article. 10 11 WILDLIFE THE NATIONAL PARK FEATURE EXPERIENCE Bridled Nailtail Wallaby Personal reflection on why our parks must be valued (Onychogalea fraenata)

Megan Adams Graeme Bartrim Bachelor of Wildlife Science, University of Queensland President, National Parks Association of Queensland (NPAQ)

The bridled nailtail wallaby species. Taunton contains 12 different Thanks to the company that I worked (Onychogalea fraenata) is endangered regional ecosystems, four of which for supporting the construction of in Queensland (Nature Conservation are listed as endangered and two as the predator proof fence for bilbies Act 1992) and nationally (Environment of concern under the Department of at , an Protection and Biodiversity Environment and Heritage Protection’s opportunity arose in Easter 2001 Conservation 1999). biodiversity status. to take my children Hannah, Julia, Hamish and Sarah right out west. It is a small wallaby with a distinctive Not only do these habitats have their white ‘bridle’ strip running from the own significant conservation value, The completion of the fence was to centre of the back along the shoulders be celebrated and quite a few people but they provide vital habitat for the to behind the forearms. were converging on Currawinya. My only naturally occurring population of four children and I set off and over It is one of three species that have endangered bridled nailtail wallabies. time the roads became increasingly a ‘nail tail’. This refers to the horny Through conservation of these straight, traffic decreased and the ‘pointed nail’ at the end of the tail. It vegetation communities, and removal is unknown what purpose this ‘nail dominance of Eucalypts gave way to of invasive buffel grass, the recovery tail’ serves, however, it is thought it Acacias. My oldest daughter who was team ensures the key species that might aid in pivoting while running and a learner driver at the time was able to provide food and shelter for the making quick turns. clock up quite a few hours. wallabies are available. Clockwise from top: A lake at Currawinya National Park; a section of the predator-proof The bridled nailtail was thought to We arrived at the park where a fence at Currawinya; a bilby. PHOTOS: PAUL DONATIU (TOP & ABOVE); NPAQ ARCHIVES (BELOW) be extinct from the 1930’s, until its The success of the recovery program group of enthusiastic people had for endangered bridled nailtails, rediscovery nearly 40 years later in established facilities for the influx of an overwhelming night sky with the raising broader issues such as animal 1973 by a fencing contractor. The including the protection their habitat as visitors. The park landscape was very occasional shooting star and enjoying rights, waste minimisation and human contractor had recently read in article , highlights how different to the coastal country familiar conversation. about the extinction of the species, important the role of national parks to my children. Red sandy soil was population. This experience helped cement my and quickly reported that he had seen Clockwise from top: Rangers at a control are in the conservation of threatened plentiful, ground cover sparse, the children’s interest in and concern The visit was also a reminder of the a population of nailtails near the town site for buffel grass management, Taunton species. overstorey was reduced in height and National Park; Bridled nailtail wallaby. for the natural world. As a parent of in the Central Highlands a lake was a little salty. Living more amount of work that is required within IMAGES: PAUL DONATIU (TOP), QUEENSLAND basically and waiting for the old boiler it is gratifying to hear them now as region of Queensland. MUSEUM, GARY CRANITCH (ABOVE) established national parks to maintain to heat up shower water added to the independent adults discussing bird It was confirmed by members of children’s sense of mystery. observations or weed control and its specific values. the Queensland Parks and Wildlife reintroduce populations at nearby Service team that there was in fact a and Avocet Nature The building of the enclosure and removal of feral animals in such an population of the wallabies living in this Refuge. Both populations of bridled References isolated location was quite a feat and area. In 1979 the area was declared nailtails are now self-sustaining and Taunton National Park (Scientific) to the dedication and enthusiasm of the mating successfully. Now the goal Lundie-Jenkins, G. and Lowry, J. 2005. Recovery conserve and increase the population park’s personnel was obvious. is to protect and enhance these plan for the bridled nailtail wallaby (Onychogalea of bridled nailtails. populations. fraenata) 2005-2009. Report to the Department A highlight for the children was The population of bridled nailtails at of Environment and Heritage (DEH), Canberra. to get close to a couple of bilbies In 1993, a bridled nailtail recovery Taunton National Park has grown from Environmental Protection Agency/Queensland under the supervision of park people less than a hundred to now over 200 team comprising of non-profit Fitzroy Parks and Wildlife Service, . who treated the endearing creatures individuals. Part of this success is the Basin Association, various other with great care and affection. The constant effort of controlling predation organizations, state and federal children’s eyes grew large as they The State of Queensland (Department of by wild dogs, dingoes and cats governments, as well as landholders, enjoyed the company of the little Environment and Heritage Protection). 2017. through baiting programs. developed a management plan to help marsupials. Bridled nailtail wallaby. [ONLINE] Available at: with the conservation of the species. Part of the recovery process has https://www.ehp.qld.gov.au/wildlife/threatened- Another fond memory is our finding been to successfully establish a The recovery team also monitors and species/endangered/endangered-animals/bridled_ an old bed base one evening and the captive breeding colony (1991) to manages both native and pest plant nailtail_wallaby.html. [Accessed 9 October 2017]. five of us lying across it looking into 12 13 RANGER OF WHAT’S LATEST RELEASES THE MONTH N Insights into the diverse backgrounds and day-to-day Cost: Free NPAQ activities Leader: Angus McElnea (0429 854 446 or activities of Queensland’s park rangers [email protected]) Ï Community Conservation - Tayce Cook D’Aguilar National Park < New Year Twilight Celebration Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (QPWS) Get your hands dirty! Come and spend a Date Claimer couple of hours to help with lantana control Date: 7 January 2018 and revegetation work Further details and venue to be advised Date: Saturday, October 21 Tayce Cook is a Marine Park Ranger Leaders: Len and Laurelle Lowry with the Northern Great Barrier Reef have the most amazing islands, rich Meet: Jollys Lookout carpark in D’Aguilar National Park region. She remembers boating with with culture and biodiversity, which Cost: Free her dad in when she we can camp on and explore. And Leader: Angus McElnea (0429 854 446 or NPAQ events was a kid, seeing the Marine Park surrounding the islands, we have [email protected]) NPAQ Member’s Meeting Rangers working around the bay, and the Great Barrier Reef, internationally knowing that that was the job she significant for its beauty and incredible The last NPAQ member’s meeting for the wanted. Æ Birding at Sandy Camp year will be held: diversity. I take every opportunity I Bushland Reserve, Wynnum Date: Wednesday, November 15 How long have you worked in get to jump into the water—anything This area is known for the many species Time: 7.15pm for 7.30pm start national parks? from cleaning and inspecting public of birds found amongst a range of Venue: Brisbane Botanic Gardens I’ve worked as a Marine Parks moorings to monitoring coral reef environments, including the reed beds, Auditorium, Mt Coot-tha Ranger for nearly six years. I love health. For me, it’s the best part of my open water holes, scrub and grassy areas. working in and around the water, There is a viewing shelter overlooking one job. the waterholes. knowing that I am helping to For a Christmas morning tea, we will move protect and maintain one of the What is your top tip for visitors to to the Wynnum foreshore. most important natural wonders in Vale parks for bushwalking? Please bring a plate of goodies to share. Australia—the Great Barrier Reef. I NPAQ is saddened by the passing in also love being able to share my Well, it gets pretty hot up in far Date: Sunday, November 19 August, of life member Yvette Cramond. north Queensland, especially during passion for the environment with QPWS ranger Tayce Cook on Meet: Sandy Camp Road carpark.UBD Yvette joined NPAQ in 1946, and she visitors to the park. (above). summer, so make sure you pack map 142 Q16 became a Life Member in 2012. Grade: Easy PHOTOS: (ABOVE) & plenty of water. And don’t forget We extend our sincere condolences to Which parks have you worked in? JEREMY BISHOP (TOP) to take a camera to capture the Cost: $5 Yvette’s family and friends. Leader: Lesley Joyce ([email protected], I’ve worked as a Park Ranger with astounding views! the loggerhead turtles at Mon Repos; making a complex array of noises. 0423 109 788, 3818 7646) and also as a Conservation Officer, They were very interactive and playful, What is your top tip for campers? checking marine park permits in and stayed with us for a long time. 5 The 6th Clif Bell Memorial Moreton Bay Marine Park. For the Camping on islands means you Picnic last three years I’ve been based in Can you describe your favourite don’t always have access to the The 6th Clif Bell Memorial Picnic, Ellanora national parks experience? Cairns as a Marine Park Ranger. facilities (such as shops!) that are Park, Wynnum. Previously, I was also Wildlife Ranger On a flat calm day during the winter available on the mainland. Research The Picnic will follow the bird group walk with the Department of Environment whale season, walking up the steep our web site for everything you commencing at 9.30am. and Heritage Protection, based in track to the summit of Fitzroy Island need to know, then plan for those Date: Sunday, November 19 can be amazing. The views over the and also Cairns. conditions and you can’t go wrong! Meet: Ellanora Park, Wynnum. UBD map island and mainland are incredible 143 H14. East of Crown St, Wynnum What has been your most and, if you’re lucky enough, you can Cost: Free memorable moment? see the humpback whales swimming Leader: Ian Peacock (0416 943 280, 3359 There have been many since I have past on their annual migration into our 0318 or [email protected]) started working in the Great Barrier warm reef waters from the Antarctic. Reef Marine Park region! But I can’t It’s well worth the hike up to the top. Ï Community Conservation - go past the time when we were out D’Aguilar National Park Image: Daintree Gardenia. doing reef health assessments and a What is the best part about PHOTO: DR DAVID TNG & DR DEBORAH APGAUA working in a national park? NPAQ thanks Tayce for taking time to Get your hands dirty! Come and spend a pod of common bottlenose dolphins answer our questions. We appreciate couple of hours to help with lantana control www.publish.csiro.au swam up to us in the water. More The beauty of working in our marine the work all QPWS rangers undertake in and revegetation work than 20 dolphins surrounded us, parks region is in its diversity. We protecting Queensland’s national parks. Date: Saturday, November 18 For more information on [email protected] Meet: Jollys Lookout carpark in D’Aguilar Activities, visit our website: 1300 788 000 National Park www.npaq.org.au/events

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