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Injury Rates, Mechanisms, and Risk Factors for Injury in Youth Rock Climbers

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Injury Rates, Mechanisms, and Risk Factors for Injury in Youth Rock Climbers University of Calgary PRISM: University of Calgary's Digital Repository Graduate Studies The Vault: Electronic Theses and Dissertations 2013-07-17 Injury Rates, Mechanisms, and Risk Factors For Injury in Youth Rock Climbers Woollings, Kaikanani Woollings, K. (2013). Injury Rates, Mechanisms, and Risk Factors For Injury in Youth Rock Climbers (Unpublished master's thesis). University of Calgary, Calgary, AB. doi:10.11575/PRISM/26534 http://hdl.handle.net/11023/839 master thesis University of Calgary graduate students retain copyright ownership and moral rights for their thesis. You may use this material in any way that is permitted by the Copyright Act or through licensing that has been assigned to the document. For uses that are not allowable under copyright legislation or licensing, you are required to seek permission. Downloaded from PRISM: https://prism.ucalgary.ca UNIVERSITY OF CALGARY Injury Rates, Mechanisms, and Risk Factors For Injury in Youth Rock Climbers by Kaikanani Woollings A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE FACULTY OF KINESIOLOGY CALGARY, ALBERTA JULY, 2013 © KAIKANANI WOOLLINGS 2013 Abstract Objective: To examine the incidence, mechanisms, and risk factors for injury in 11- to 19-year-old recreational and elite sport climbers and boulderers. Methods: Cross-sectional study design. Participants were recruited from climbing facilities across Alberta, Canada, and 116 youths completed an anonymous questionnaire. Primary Outcome Measure: Climbing injury Results: The incidence rate of climbing injury was 4.44 injuries/1000 climbing hours (95% CI; 3.74, 5.23). Sprains and strains were the predominant injury type, and the primary mechanism of injury was repetitive overuse. Hands and fingers were the most commonly injured locations. Older age (15–19-year-olds), injury in a sport other than climbing, and preventive taping were shown to be risk factors for injury. Conclusions: Climbing injury incidence rates are high in youth climbers. Findings are consistent with reported rates and details surrounding injury in adults. Modifiable potential risk factors warrant further investigation in order to inform development of future injury prevention strategies. ii Acknowledgements I would like to acknowledge all the members of the climbing community who made this project possible. I owe a debt of gratitude to the coaches, parents, young climbers, and gym owners who supported and helped facilitate this research. It has been a pleasure to share a mutual passion for climbing, and to discuss the exciting directions where this sport is headed. There are many people who have helped to teach, encourage, and support me throughout this degree. I am especially grateful to Dr. Carolyn Emery for her guidance, patience, and for supporting me in carrying out a project of which I am passionate. I would also like to thank my thesis committee members Dr. Carly McKay, Dr. Jane Kang, and Dr. Winne Meeuwisse. I am eternally grateful for all of your direction and help. I have learned a great deal from every one of you, and this thesis would not have been possible without you. I owe gratitude to everyone in the Sport Injury Prevention Research Centre. Thank you to my office mates for sharing your knowledge, advice, and positive energy. Your friendship and good humour has made this degree memorable, enjoyable, and rewarding. Thank you to my family and friends who have supported to me through both the challenges that I have faced, as well as the successes. I appreciate the advice and encouragement, as well as the smiles and laughs that relieved my stress throughout this degree. You have kept me grounded, and made this research all the more meaningful for me. iii Finally, I would like to acknowledge that funding support for this research was provided by Alberta Innovates Health Solutions, and the Alberta Children’s Hospital Research Institute for Child & Maternal Health through the Talisman Energy Research Fund in Healthy Living and Optimizing Health Outcomes. iv Dedication This thesis is dedicated to my wonderful family, Tina Fong, Don, and Fa-Linn Woollings. I am truly grateful for the unconditional love and support that you have always shown me, and I will always be thankful for your unwavering encouragement, reassurance, and guidance in all parts of my life. v Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................... ii! Acknowledgements ............................................................................................................ iii! Dedication ............................................................................................................................v! Table of Contents ............................................................................................................... vi! List of Tables ..................................................................................................................... ix! List of Figures and Illustrations ...........................................................................................x! List of Symbols, Abbreviations and Nomenclature ........................................................... xi! CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................1! 1.1 Problem Statement .....................................................................................................1! 1.2 Research Purpose .......................................................................................................2! 1.3 Background ................................................................................................................2! 1.3.1 Climbing Disciplines .........................................................................................2! 1.3.2 Participation and Competition ...........................................................................4! 1.3.3 Safety Standards in Rock Climbing ..................................................................6! 1.3.4 Injury in Rock Climbing ....................................................................................6! 1.3.5 Injury Prevention .............................................................................................10! 1.3.6 Limitations in the Literature ............................................................................11! 1.3.7 Standardization of Injury Definition and Reporting ........................................12! 1.4 Research Rationale ..................................................................................................13! 1.5 Research Question And Specific Objectives ...........................................................14! 1.6 Research Significance ..............................................................................................15! 1.7 Summary of Thesis Format ......................................................................................16! CHAPTER TWO: RISK FACTORS FOR INJURY IN SPORT CLIMBING AND BOULDERING: A SYSTEMATIC REVIEW OF THE LITERATURE ................18! 2.1 Abstract ....................................................................................................................18! 2.2 Introduction ..............................................................................................................19! 2.3 Methods ...................................................................................................................21! 2.3.1 Data Sources ....................................................................................................21! 2.3.2 Study Selection Criteria ...................................................................................23! 2.3.3 Data Extraction ................................................................................................24! 2.3.4 Data Synthesis .................................................................................................24! 2.4 Results ......................................................................................................................25! 2.4.1 Included Studies ..............................................................................................25! 2.4.2 Study Quality Assessment ...............................................................................26! 2.4.3 Injury Incidence ...............................................................................................27! 2.4.4 Risk Factors .....................................................................................................29! 2.5 Discussion ................................................................................................................47! 2.5.1 Limitations .......................................................................................................52! 2.5.2 Recommendations for Future Research ...........................................................54! 2.6 Conclusions ..............................................................................................................54! vi CHAPTER THREE: METHODS ......................................................................................56! 3.1 Study Design ............................................................................................................56! 3.2 Study Population ......................................................................................................56!
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