The Leather Jacket: an Object of Rebellion?

The Leather Jacket: An Object of Rebellion?

Beginning as a uniform for fighter pilots during the First World War, to becoming an object of rebellion for bikers and rockers, the leather jacket has been adapted throughout its entire history, but remaining a symbol of strength and rebellion. However, it’s previous status seems to no longer be, but instead is simply a fashion staple, worn in many ways by many different people. What does this now mean for the iconic symbolism of the leather jacket: Is it that more people are wishing to participate in its rebellious past, or has the meaning of the leather jacket faded out? Has it become too popular to be rebellious?

Leather jackets were initially designed for fighter pilots during the First World War, with more of a focus on practicality, such as being lined for warmth. Whilst the purpose of this aviator jacket, and its softer look, doesn’t express rebellion, the association with fighter pilots does suggest strength and power. But is it only through these associations that the jacket has the image it does? Or perhaps it’s because of the jacket itself; the shape emphasizes the shoulders and adds weight and strength to the human figure. Whilst this original form of the leather jacket isn’t the one that, today, we affiliate with rebellion, it still began with a need to express strength and power. On the other hand, the original use of leather aviators jacket totally contradicts the notion of rebellion. Used as a uniform during the First and Second World War equates to ideas of conformity and obedience, arguably to the most extreme extent.

However, it could be said that the extreme conformity and uniformity allowed for something to be rebelled against. The adaption of the leather jacket into a biker jacket was simply due to an asymmetrical zip replacing a button down; designed by Irving Schott in 1928, the jacket called ‘Perfecto’ defined what we see as the leather biker jacket today. The attraction of the jacket wasn’t purely based on the practicality of the design, but also the rigid, rough material, and the addition of the zips, pockets and belt. It denotes the “excitement, adventure and danger that fuelled the [bikers] fascination with motorcycles”1

However, with this new design attracting to bikers, the rebellious connotations and reputation transferred to the clothing of the bikers – to the leather jacket.

Although the leather jacket as the re-designed Perfecto was popular, it wasn’t until 1953 that Marlon Brando in The Wild One lead the garment along with the culture of bikers. The result of this film meant, and still means, that Brando and the Perfecto became icons of rebellion, in particular youth rebellion, at a time of subcultures and an empowerment in teenagers fighting against what was expected of them and with more opportunities in work, travel and economically. One example being the Rockers, (or Greasers in the US)2. With youth rebellion popularized, the style of rockers also grew in popularity, as did the popularity of the leather jacket, and its symbolism of rebellion. Further encouraging the image of rebellion being within the leather jacket, media, music and film included titles, such as “rebel” and “wild”3 particularly whilst focusing on the culture of bikers and their image. With these terms closely connected to bikers, and the jacket, a negative view was placed upon this new culture, when in fact it was also largely about freedom and exploration, and breaking away from previous confinements and expectations. Arguably, this change was so successful due to the rebellious and “wild” way it was done, that results of freedom may not have been achieved if the rebellion was subtle.

The leather jacket was, and still is, perceived as strong and tough, particularly in its weight and masculine build. However, throughout its lifetime of being a part of rebellious culture, whether through Bikers, teenage rebellion, Rockers, and continuing through to Punks, the assistance of the leather jacket in rebelling was always at the hands of those who wanted to rebel. So whilst the jacket is now symbolic of rebellion, it could just be as a result of being associated with rebels, rather than because of the jacket itself. Ways in which the jacket was worn was often through personalisation, expression of the person and culture wearing it. Marlon Brando’s infamous jacket from The Wild One was embellished with B.R.M.C (Black Rebel Motorcycle Club)4 painted on the back in white, with similar personalisation being used to identify different groups or gangs or clubs of people, with one of the most famous being the Hell’s Angels club.

1Schottnyc.com. (2016). History of Schott NYC. Web. 19 Oct. 2016. 2 Bbc.com. Rebel Rebel: The Biker Jacket". (2016). Web. 19 Oct. 2016. 3DeLong, Marilyn, et al. “From Renegade to Regular Joe” International Journal of Motorcycle Studies. (2010). 4 The Wild One. Dir. Laslo Benedek. Perf. Marlon Brando. The Wild One. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2016. Similarly, punks use of the leather jacket and personalisation was as a way to express rebellion and identity. But even now, the leather jackets seen in current fashions is generally clean of embellished, or additional pieces to personalise, there still remains a personalised jacket. The way that we move and the ways that we care for our leather jackets means that each is individual, with pieces worn away, or creases in particular places with movement, or from the amount of wear that it gets, or the way that it is cared for whilst not in use, the leather appears to subtly mould to our bodies and personalities. Whilst it’s not purposeful, or expressive like previously, it does naturally identify us more than other materials would. “According to Jason Schott, a fourth generation member of the Schott family… It’s important for them [leather jackets] to go out and live a life”2

However, the leather jackets and how they are worn today, does not appear to reflect rebellion in the same way as previously, like with the lack of expression in being personalised, or even the exclusivity of representing a single culture. The decline in personalisation and belonging can be seen during the 1990’s, particularly with celebrity culture. Rising supermodels at the time could be seen ‘off duty’ in a leather jacket, totally changing the connotations of the jacket from masculine and rebellious to simple and stylish. Continuing into the present, where a leather jacket is seen as a fashion ‘must-have’ rather than an expression of self. Despite this the leather jacket is still identified as iconic and influential in rebellious cultures, and whilst it no longer appears as an object of rebellion, there is no doubt that it expresses a toughness in itself, what it has assisted to achieve and how it has successfully thrived through two World Wars used for its practicality and strength, thorough revolutions such as teenage rebellion by encouraging freedom, through expression with punks due to its versatility; so whilst it currently doesn’t stand for anything other than a fashion ‘must-have’, its apparent longevity suggests a certain toughness in itself. Perhaps its previous successes of rebellion will just stay in the past for us to enjoy the jacket as a fashion piece, or it could be a piece that carries itself into future rebellions, either way its potential seems everlasting.

Bibliography

1Schottnyc.com. History of Schott NYC. (2016). Web. https://www.schottnyc.com/about.cfm. 19 Oct. 2016

2Bbc.com. Rebel Rebel: The Biker Jacket". (2016). Web. http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20140424-rebel-rebel-the-biker-jacket. 19 Oct. 2016.

3 DeLong, Marilyn, et al. "From Renegade to Regular Joe: The Black Leather Jacket's Values for Bikers." International Journal of Motorcycle Studies, vol. 6, no. 2, 2010.

4 The Wild One. Dir. Laslo Benedek. Perf. Marlon Brando. The Wild One. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Oct. 2016.