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10 Insider Style Secrets

Valet.’s expert guide to upgrading your personal style. How to save money, find the clothes that suit you and get the most out of your wardrobe.

valetmag.com @valetmag X X X 1 Buy Your Wardrobe Staples Used

It's smart to buy less, but buy better. The only downside to investing in quality pieces for your wardrobe is that it will cost you. But not as much as you might think. These days, stylish insiders and those on a budget can both benefit from checking out vintage stores, resale shops and eBay, or hitting up online consignment shops like Grailed. Trend followers can turn over the pieces they're no longer into and for those of us looking for more timeless staples, we can score epic deals on big name brands. Here are a few pieces that you're better off buying used.

LEATHER JACKETS A leather jacket can be one of the most expensive single pieces of clothing a guy will buy. And it's not the type of garment you want to skimp on. Scoring one that's been worn and well-kept is one surefire way to save some money and ensure your jacket looks cool and lived-in. Because even a bit worn in, quality leather rarely wears out.

SUNGLASSES Quality sunglasses from brands like Ray-Ban, Persol or Garrett BOOTS Leight don't come cheap. But you A good pair of boots can can often find deals on vintage last the better part of a styles or pairs being sold on decade. Longer still if consignment. Just make sure that they’re Goodyear welted they're in good shape—check the and can easily be lenses for any superficial resoled. Find a pair that scratches and look for loose fits your foots and your hinges at the temples. Bonus if style, then take them to a they come with an original case cobbler to be refurbished. (but that's not necessary). You’re left with the best of both worlds—rugged boots that look like new but feel as though you’ve had them for years.

valet. 1 A HIGH-END WATCH Kind of like a new car driven off the lot, most brand new watches tend to lose a lot of the value right away. But you can get vintage or luxury timepieces on consignment for a fraction of their original retail costs. Just be sure to do your homework, warns Hodinkee's Ben Clymer. "There are too many good fakes out there," he says. "Talk to someone you trust and don't be afraid to get a second opinion. If the dealer has nothing to hide, he'll happily let you show it around."

QUALITY DENIM A pair of well-worn selvedge jeans will always be in style. But breaking in that raw denim requires the kind of commitment (and occasional pain) reserved for carving out six-pack abs or getting into an Ivy League school. You can save yourself a lot of time, trouble and money by buying some well-made jeans on their second life. Just make sure that the stress points like the crotch and pockets are in good shape. And if they're not, but the fit is right, have them repaired and reinforced.

BRIEFCASES AND LUGGAGE Some things just look better with a little wear (and tear). A brand-spanking-new leather briefcase can have that “first day of school” vibe. And that’s not cool. They’re too perfectly unblemished and they’re stiff. Better to find one that’s been softened up with use and now sports a healthy and handsome patina. The same goes for suitcases. Hardwearing luggage, like Rimowa, is expensive because it can take a beating and still look good. Why buy a new one only to have the airline toss it around when a used one works just as well at half the cost?

THE ONLY DOWNSIDE TO BUYING USED CLOTHES? THAT TELL-TALE Fight VINTAGE SHOP SMELL. BUT THERE'S AN EASY FIX. "ALL YOU HAVE TO DO Vintage IS MIX ONE PART VODKA WITH TWO PARTS WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE," Funk SAYS JANIE BRYANT, THE COSTUME DESIGNER FOR MAD MEN. "IT WORKS EVERY TIME—THAT'S THE POWER OF VODKA FOR YOU."

valet. 2 2 Have a Well-Stocked Footwear Arsenal

Any man of style should have a well-stocked arsenal of footwear. The idea being, that if you invest in a handful of sensible (and stylish) pairs and take care of them, you'll be set for years.

BLACK LACE-UPS BROWN BROGUES A pair of fuss-free black oxfords were the first pair of These are workhorse shoes that pair with pretty shoes a man would invest serious money in back when much everything in your wardrobe from jeans to office dress codes were stiffer. These days, you might suits, and are appropriate for everything from not need them as often, but a smart pair of black cap- weddings and business meetings to regular toe lace-ups will serve you well for any fancy occasion. occasions like date night.

SUEDE CHUKKAS CASUAL BOOTS Comfortable and classic, these are more dressed- For off-duty adventures like camping trips or up than a pair of sneakers, but not quite as proper working out in the garage. Or simply going on a as your dressy lace-ups. They make a safe bet for casual date or into the office on a wet day. any casual, everyday outfit.

SIMPLE SNEAKERS SLIP-ONS When in doubt, buy them in white and go with an When you want something simple and casual but understated, retro style in a low-top cut. Try to keep smarter than a pair of sneakers, go with a leather slip- them clean and you can basically wear them anywhere. on. The classic American loafer will always look sharp. valet. 3 Before Buying, Take Your Shoes 3 for a Serious Test Drive

Okay, it's not very hard. You've bought shoes before. But if you've ever arrived at the store unprepared or ended up with a pair that just aren't quite right, then you know .... it sucks. And if you're spending your hard-earned dough on a quality pair of shoes, we suggest taking them for a serious test drive. Here’s how to ensure the perfect fit.

THE BEST TIME TO Feet naturally swell and expand throughout the day, TRY ON SHOES IS IN so this will ensure that your new shoes won't end up THE AFTERNOON. pinching your feet later on.

REALLY LOOK AT Inspect the stitching and don't be afraid to ask for THE SHOE. another pair if something seems off. Check the lining. Make sure it seems substantial and well sewn, otherwise the shoes won't last long.

WEAR THE When slipping into a dress shoe, you want to RIGHT SOCKS. wear a light, lean pair of socks. But those aren't the socks you want when you're pulling on a rugged pair of boots.

REALLY WALK You want to get the feel of walking, not just AROUND. standing. If you're uncomfortable in the store or you've purchased online, take a day or two and walk around the house—on carpeting. You can always return them if the soles haven't been scratched.

THAT METAL FOOT MEASURER? IT'S CALLED A BRANNOCK DEVICE AND YOU SHOULD USE IT. FYI YOU'D BE SURPRISED TO SEE HOW YOUR SHOE SIZE CAN VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR.

valet. 4 4 Plan Your Outfit the Night Before

Mornings can be tough. The alarm goes off and you walk over to the closet, bleary-eyed (and maybe a little hungover) and you're supposed to choose—in a matter of seconds—how you'll present yourself to the world today. You grab some clothes, shower and roll out. But somewhere between leaving the house and settling in at work or whatever you're up to that day, you find yourself regretting your sartorial decisions. Sure, you don't look bad, but could it be better? Yes. Couldn't we all do a little better? Of course.

And how do we do it? Simple. Take 10 to 15 minutes the night before and plan your outfit for the next day. Just like a runner or cyclist who gathers their gear at the foot of the bed to ensure they get in a proper workout first thing in the morning, you're taking the guesswork out of getting dressed. It makes groggy mornings a little less stressful because you won't have to stand in front of your closet in your underwear, wondering if this sweater goes with these pants or whether you have time to iron that dress shirt. Plus, selecting your look the night before allows you to put a little more thought into what you wear. Which results in less anxiety, indecision and a more pulled-together, confident way to start the day.

THE GAME PLAN

Check the weather for the next day to help 1 inform what you'll need to wear.

Pull out everything you'll need, including 2 underwear and socks along with shoes and any accessories like a belt and tie.

If your shirt or pants are wrinkled, this is when 3 you'd iron or steam them.

Hang it all up together. (A hook on the back of your 4 bedroom door or in your closet is the perfect place.)

valet. 5 Organize Your Closet 5

A well organized closet will not only allow you to better know what you have, but it will make getting dressed in the morning all the more painless and efficient.

1. GETTING STARTED 2. THE SPACE ISSUE Take an inventory of what Not everyone is blessed you have and what you with a walk-in closet. Store wear. If you can't fit into out-of-season items out of something any longer or the way so that everything haven't worn it in over a isn't stuffed and piled on top year, you don't need to of one another. Just make hang onto it. Donate it. If sure the clothes are clean you've got three pairs of before they're boxed up. Chuck Taylors and only wear two, well, you know what to do.

3. LIKE GOES WITH LIKE 4. KNOW WHEN TO FOLD ‘EM This is a big one for closet organizers. While you should hang anything that Everything has a place. Choose a might wrinkle easily, you can fold and grouping system that works for you— stack items like T-shirts, sweaters and we suggest by type (button downs, T- jeans. Try to avoid making any stack shirts, jackets, sweaters—and then by higher than six items. Keep ties, color if you really want to know your scarves and watches orderly and dust- options instantly. free in a drawer.

Planning Dimensions

SHORT ITEMS LONG ITEMS FOLDED ITEMS 42” 84” 1 Square foot From rod to floor From rod to floor valet. 6 Avoid These Common 6 Suit Mistakes to Look Your Best

We're a casual society these days. Most men don't have to wear a suit that often. But when the occasion calls for getting dressed up and you put in the effort— pulling on the jacket, knotting up a tie and tucking in a pocket square—you want to look damn good when you're done. So make sure you're not committing these all-too-common suit blunders.

KEEPING IT "STORE FRESH" You might see some guys wearing suits with the brand's fabric label still stitched to the bottom of the sleeve. You don't want that there. Take it off carefully with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper, and do it as soon as you get your suit home. The same goes for the small threads (known as tack stitching) securing the vents and pockets. Those are only used to keep the jacket's shape while it's shipping and on the rack at the store.

NOT HAVING IT TAILORED When it comes to suits, the fit is the most important factor in how good you'll look in it. Maybe you've hit the jackpot and found a suit that fits almost perfectly right off the rack. That's fantastic. But trust us when we tell you that no matter how nice you think it looks now, a tailor will undoubtedly improve it—by nipping in the waist a bit or hemming the pants and sleeves to the ideal length.

BUTTONING YOUR LAST BUTTON If your jacket closes with more than one button, you always leave that last button unfastened. The reason why is a something of a murky myth: Many point to King Louis XIV, who became too heavy to close all of the buttons on his formal jacket before a grand ball. In deference to the king, the other men at court left their last buttons undone too. And now, it's simply a respected tradition that we've all agreed looks best.

valet. 7

STORING IT IMPROPERLY Don't simply hang your suit up, sealed in the plastic garment bag from the store. You want it to breathe and maintain its shape. Store your suit in a cloth garment bag (or at least, keep the plastic garment bag unzipped half way to allow air in). Your jacket may've come with a plastic hanger, but you should spring for a well-made wooden one. They have a substantial shape to the shoulder and arch forward slightly, supporting the jacket's shape. Keep pants wrinkle free with the "Savile Row fold," developed decades ago by British tailors. Grab the pants by the legs and fold one through the hanger until the hem reaches the crotch. Finish by folding the second leg similarly over the first.

MATCHING YOUR TIE AND POCKET SQUARE Once considered a go-to move for groomsmen everywhere, this look tends to lack personal style and makes you look like you're wearing some kind of cheap suit starter kit. Remember the rule of thumb: Your accessories (be it your tie and pocket square or belt and shoes) should complement each other but not match.

WEARING BLACK This one's pretty simple. A black suit is just too extreme and should generally be reserved for funerals and black tie events. Your best bet? Go with a classic navy or charcoal grey suit, paired with shoes in shades of brown. Bonus: Shirts of practically any color will pair nicely with navy or grey.

valet. 8 Ensure Your Suit 7 Fits You Really Well

What can make a $300 suit look like a million bucks and a $5,000 suit look like garbage? The fit. It doesn't matter if it’s made from wool, cotton or linen, the fit is always the most important thing about how a suit looks. Here's how to get that perfectly tailored look (and how much you should expect to pay for it).

CHEST SHOULDERS You should just be able to slip your Too big and they'll slope, hand under your jacket while it's too snug and they'll wrinkle buttoned. Any more room (say, a fist's and bunch. The jacket's worth) and your jacket is too loose. shoulder should hug your Have the sides taken in. The nipped body's shoulder. When waist will broaden your shoulders and buying suits, try going lengthen your torso—it should cost down a size to ensure a $30 to $40 at your tailor. snug fit—you don't want to have this part altered. SLEEVES Your sleeve should stop just above the joint of your wrist, enabling you to flash a quarter- inch of cuff. And if you want your suit to fit like a magazine or catalog model, then you'll want to PANTS have the sleeves taken in to If you want a contemporary proportionally fit your arms—a look to your suit, you want tailor will likely charge you from flat-front pants hemmed with $15 to $20 per sleeve. very little break, allowing you to flash a bit of ankle. (Sid Mashburn will tell you no break is needed.) You may need to have the legs DON'T LISTEN TO narrowed slightly as well—it'll THE SALESMAN run you anywhere from $30 to WHO SAYS "BUY IT $50 for the both alterations. A LITTLE BIGGER, Tip YOU'LL HAVE THIS FOR YEARS." HE'S JUST SETTING YOU UP TO LOOK BAD. valet. 9 Dress For Your Body Type 8

You don't need to have the physique of a male model to look good in your clothes. Whether you're short or tall, lanky or stocky, the real key to looking your best— without having to hit to the gym—is simply dressing to suit your body type.

BIG & TALL LONG & LEAN SHORT & STOCKY SHORT & TRIM

Ex. Julius Peppers Ex. John Krasinski Ex. Jack Black Ex. Daniel Radcliffe

Wear: Pants with Wear: Anything with Wear: Single-button Wear: Two-button suit cuffs to break up the horizontal lines to suits or jackets that jackets with a low- long inseam. A dark, help you look broader. have a low-button button stance. Thicker navy blue suit or Lighter colors visually stance to make the fabrics (like corduroy) jacket with a light add width to a narrow torso look longer. or bolder patterns offer colored shirt and frame. A belt cuts Dark, V-neck the illusion of heft. pocket square—this across the body to sweaters do the Spread collar shirts, brings the focus to play down your same. Flat-front pants dark, narrow ties and your chest. height. with little to no break. slim shoes.

Avoid: Anything with Avoid: Anything with Avoid: Anything with Avoid: Anything horizontal lines or vertical lines, which horizontal stripes or baggy or loose, which bold patterns, which only make you look busy plaids, which only draws attention accentuate your taller. Tight suits and break up the body's to your size. If you girth. Narrow ties jackets that advertise vertical lines. Spread can get away without and thin lapels, your thin limbs. Or collars. Untucked wearing a belt, do it. which can throw off slim-toed shoes, shirts, which look The more pared your body's which can make feet sloppy and make your down your clothes, proportion. look big and long. waist look bigger. the taller you look.

valet. 10 Problem Solving: How to 9 Sharpen Your Look On the Fly

There are a handful of reasons why you might need to freshen up in a public restroom. Maybe you just got off a long flight or have a date immediately after a long day at the office. In any case, here you are—in the men's room with just a few minutes to pull yourself together. But if you're resourceful, you can make the most of the limited resources at your disposal.

The Problem The Solution A WRINKLED SHIRT Wet your hands in the sink, then flick some water on the wrinkled areas. Hold the fabric under the hand dryer, pulling the fabric taut. Then, while the fabric is still warm, work the fabric with your hand to smooth any leftover wrinkles.

The Problem The Solution A SHINY The best way to get rid of the grease on your face OR OILY FACE is to absorb it. Oddly, one of the best materials to soak up oil is one of those flimsy toilet seat covers. Most have a slick side and a matte side—you want to use the matte side, pressed against the face rather than dragged.

The Problem The Solution YOU’VE GOT B.O. Take three paper towels and put a small shot of soap on two, but only wet one of them. Head into a stall and scrub your armpits with the wet soapy towel. Dry them off with the dry towel, then wipe them with the soap-only towel. This kills the offending bacteria while leaving behind a slight scent.

The Problem The Solution YOUR HAIR If you have product in your hair, it can be revived IS A MESS with a little water. Not too much—you want to rework it, not wash it out. Wet your hands and then run them through the sides of your hair, smoothing any loose ends sticking out around your ears. Then lightly go over the top to tame any messy tufts.

The Problem The Solution YOU SPILLED When you've got a stain on your clothes you've got SOMETHING two options: 1) Remove the item of clothing, dampen the stained area with some warm water and a bit of soap, then rub the fabric into itself to agitate the offending stain. 2) If taking off the item isn't an option, wet a paper towel, add a little soap and rub on the stain. Use another wet towel to "rinse" the area and blot with a dry towel, then dry the fabric under the hand dryer. valet. 11 Take Care of Your Jeans 10 (So They’ll Last You)

They're our go-to pants. A sartorial security blanket. The article of clothing that we men wear more than anything else. We love our jeans, which is why we need to take care of them. Here's how to combat problems like shrinkage, stretched-out buttonholes and the dreaded crotch blowout.

AVOID HEAT The dryer is a dangerous place for denim. Heat breaks down the cloth fibers and also shrinks the jeans. After washing, lay them flat or hang them up to air dry. Speed up the process by rolling them tightly in a towel to soak up any excess water.

CALL IN REINFORCEMENTS WASH THEM As the old adage goes, a good defense is the best offense. You can tell where your jeans The raw denim explosion a few years are wearing thin before they rip open—usually ago lead to a slew of young men who around the pockets, where cell phones and swore to never wash their jeans. And wallets make a constant imprint. This puts while this certainly leads to the best wear stress on the fabric, so have a tailor or repair patterns and "whiskers," you're actually shop reinforce the area before the fabric breaking down the cotton along with the breaks down completely and causes holes. indigo you're wearing off. The sweat and The same can be done for buttonholes that grime weaken the fabric and the build up start stretching. of dirt particles—in the crotch area or along the cuffs—actually grinds away at the denim until it rips. The solution is to wash your jeans more frequently. But avoid using harsh detergents or fabric softeners because they can over-soften the jeans and cause them to wear out faster. Whether you choose to hand wash or use your washing machine's gentle cycle is up to you.

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