The Best of Belize

1 The Best of Belize

Belize proves the cliché that big things come in small packages. This tiny Central American country has the longest continuous barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere; the largest known Classic Mayan city, Caracol; and the highest concentra- tion per square mile of the largest new-world cat, the jaguar. It also has one of the most extensive and easily accessible cave systems for amateur and experienced spelunkers alike, as well as a nearly endless supply of some of the world’s best snorkeling and scuba-diving opportunities. Depending on your personal preferences, you can choose to stay in an intimate and luxurious hotel, an isolated nature lodge in the heart of the Mundo Maya, or a tent on your own desert island. Or you can sample all three. The best part about all these world-class places and experiences is that Belize’s compact size makes it easy to sample a wide range of them in a short period of time. The lists below should help you zero in on a few personal bests of your own.

1 THE BEST PURELY BELIZEAN EXPERIENCES

• Betting on a Chicken Drop: A chicken • Staying with a Maya Family: It cer- drop is a sort of poor man’s version of tainly isn’t going to be like a night at the roulette, and much more fun. Numbers Four Seasons, but if you’re looking for a are painted on a grid and bets are real cultural exchange experience, you placed. Then, a chicken is set loose on a should consider actually staying with a wire mesh screen suspended over the traditional Maya family. The Maya Vil- grid. The winner is chosen by the lage Homestay Network (& 722-2470; chicken’s first “drop.” In addition to any [email protected]) can organize this monetary winnings, the “winner” often for you. See “Punta Gorda & the Toledo must clean the grid. You’ll find a chicken District” in chapter 8. drop held every Wednesday night at the • Spending the Night in a Maya Cere- Pier Lounge on Ambergris Caye. See monial City: An intimate and rather “Ambergris Caye” in chapter 7. luxurious nature lodge, Chan Chich • Drinking a Cool Seaweed Shake: Lodge (& 800/343-8009 in the U.S., Made from dried natural seaweed, or 223-4419 in Belize; www.chanchich. blended with both condensed and evap- com) is built right on the site of a minor orated milk, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, Mayan ceremonial city. The hills just and someCOPYRIGHTED ice, this drink is surprisingly outside MATERIAL your private cabin are unexca- refreshing and tasty. You can get these vated residences and pyramids. Ruins drinks at several beach destinations and basic excavations dot the grounds, around Belize, but Placencia seems to and the surrounding rainforests are rich be the home of the seaweed shake. See in bird and animal life. See p. 213. “Placencia” in chapter 8. 4 The Best of Belize 9 7 N 10 18 A M 5 M E N 20

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f l 2 15 a C H THE BEST OF BELIZE NATURAL The Atolls Caves The Cayes and Barrier Reef Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary and Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary Río Bravo Conservation Area Río On Pools THE BEST DIVING & SNORKELING Caye Caulker Gladden Spit Glover’s Reef Atoll Shark-Ray Alley and Hol Chan Marine Reserve Turneffe Island and Lighthouse Reef Atolls R Reef Atoll M

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Livingston

THE BEST OF BELIZE OF BEST THE THE BEST PURELY BELIZEAN EXPERIENCES BELIZEAN PURELY BEST THE 1 5 6 2 THE BEST OF NATURAL BELIZE

• The Cayes & Barrier Reef: Running well as some 300 species of birds. Inside the entire length of the country’s coast- the park you’ll also find Victoria Peak, line, the Belize Barrier Reef is the sec- the country’s highest mountain. See ond longest continuous barrier reef in “Dangriga” in chapter 8. the world. Here you will find some of • Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary the best snorkeling opportunities and (Northern Belize): This preserve is a scuba-diving sites in the world. More- swampy lowland that is home to over over, the barrier reef is lined with hun- 250 resident species of birds and serves dreds and hundreds of small islands, or as a resting spot for scores of migratory cayes. Most are uninhabited. These species. It is also the principal nesting cayes range in size from tiny patches of site of the endangered jabiru stork, the sand or mangrove smaller than a foot- largest bird in the Americas. The sanc- ball field to the larger and more devel- tuary is an excellent place to spot other oped vacation destination islands of wildlife as well, including crocodiles, Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye. iguanas, coati-mundi, and howler mon- Whether you want the hustle and bustle keys. The best way to explore Crooked of the latter, the deserted isle feel of a Tree is by paddling around the network THE BEST OF BELIZE OF BEST THE smaller or even private caye, or some- of lagoons in a dugout canoe. See “En 1 thing in between, your choices are Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife many and uniformly inviting. See chap- Sanctuary” in chapter 9. ters 7 and 8. • Río Bravo Conservation Area (North- • The Atolls: Belize’s three mid-ocean ern Belize): This massive mixed tract of atolls are arguably more spectacular virgin forest, sustainable-yield managed than the barrier reef and its many cayes. forest, and recovering reforestation areas Unique formations of small islands and is home to nearly 400 bird species and reef surrounding a mid-ocean saltwater over 200 species of tropical trees. It also lagoon, atolls are an isolated and stun- supports a healthy population of most of ning phenomena. Belize has three of the new-world cat species, and is one of them: Turneffe Island, Lighthouse Reef, the best areas in the Americas to try your and Glover’s Reef. These atolls are very luck in spotting a jaguar. The Río Bravo sparsely developed, and any visit here Conservation Area is also home to La THE BEST OF NATURAL BELIZE NATURAL OF BEST THE will be imbued with a sense of adven- Milpa, an ongoing excavation of a major ture, isolation, and romance. See “The Mayan ceremonial city. See “Going Outer Atolls” in chapter 7 and “Dan- West: Río Bravo Conservation Area, La griga” in chapter 8. Milpa & Chan Chich” in chapter 9. • Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary • Caves (Cayo District and Western & Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve Belize): Belize has an extensive network (Southern Belize): This is a huge pro- of caves, which were considered by the tected area comprised of rugged, forested ancient Maya to be a mystical portal mountains. The sanctuary was designed between the world of the living and the to protect and help researchers study the underworld of spirits and the dead. largest new-world cat, the jaguar. The They called this mystical realm Xibalba. park is also home to Belize’s other four In almost every explored cave in Belize, wildcat species, as well as Baird’s tapirs, some evidence of use by the Mayans has coati-mundis, tayra, kinkajous, deer, been uncovered. Fire pits, campsites, peccaries, anteaters, and armadillos, as burial mounds, and ritual altars have all been found. Numerous pieces of pot- Ocho Ríos in Jamaica. While the views 7 tery and abundant skeletons, bones, and swimming are fine at the base of and artifacts have also been encoun- the falls, it’s worth the hike upstream to tered. These caves are relatively easily even better views and numerous pools accessible and you should not leave flowing between big rocks, which are Belize without at least one foray into perfect for sunbathing. This place can Xibalba. See chapter 10. get crowded on weekends, when locals • Río on Pools (Cayo District and West- come for family picnics and getaways. ern Belize): This series of flowing falls See “Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol” and pools is somewhat reminiscent of in chapter 10.

3 THE BEST DIVING & SNORKELING THE BEST OF BELIZE

Belize is rightly considered one of the top short boat ride from shore. See “Caye scuba diving and snorkeling destinations Caulker” in chapter 7. on the planet. The Belize Barrier Reef, • Turneffe Island & Lighthouse Reef second only to Australia’s Great Barrier Atolls (Northern Cayes and Atolls): For Reef, runs the length of its coastline, and many divers coming to Belize, these the country has three open-ocean atolls. spots are the holy grail, and justifiably Diving and snorkeling are superb all along so. Both of these mid-ocean atoll for- the barrier reef; the following are just a few mations feature nearly endless opportu- 1 of the truly standout sites and dives. nities for world-class wall, drift, and THE BEST DIVING & SNORKELING • Shark-Ray Alley & Hol Chan Marine coral-garden diving. As a cherry to top Reserve (Northern Cayes and Atolls): this cake, this is also where you’ll find These two very popular snorkeling sites the Blue Hole. A host of dive operators are threatened with overcrowding but all across Belize offer day trips to dive still live up to their billing. Shark-Ray these sites, although these usually Alley guarantees a very close encounter involve a 90-minute to 3-hour ride each with schools of large stingrays and nurse way. Alternatively, you can stay at one sharks. The experience provides a sub- of the very few lodges out here, or take stantial adrenaline rush for all but the a vacation on a live-aboard dive boat. most nonchalant and veteran divers. Hol See “The Outer Atolls” in chapter 7. Chan Marine Reserve is an excellent • Glover’s Reef Atoll (Southern Belize): snorkeling destination comprised of a Glover’s Reef is the third of Belize’s narrow channel cutting through a rich mid-ocean atolls. The diving here is and well-maintained shallow coral reef. spectacular and underexploited. Unlike See “Ambergris Caye” in chapter 7. the Turneffe Island and Lighthouse • Caye Caulker (Northern Cayes and Reef atolls, far fewer day-trippers visit Atolls): If you’re looking for a relaxed the dive sites around Glover’s Reef vacation spot to serve as a base for some Atoll. The best way to really take advan- good snorkeling, you can’t do much tage of the diving and snorkeling is to better than Caye Caulker, which has stay out here, and for this, Glover’s Atoll some excellent and easily accessible Resort (& 520-5016; www.glovers. snorkeling sites. It’s also much less com.bz) is your best option. See “Dan- developed and less crowded than its griga” in chapter 8. more popular neighbor, Ambergris • Gladden Spit (Southern Belize): More Caye. Many of the dive sites are a very or less due east of Placencia, Gladden Spit is a world-renowned spot for diving 8 with massive whale sharks. This mid- late March through June, and to a lesser ocean site is the natural spawning extent from August to October and in ground for a variety of marine species. December and January. Since the sharks Whale sharks come regularly to feed on tend to feed and cruise close to the the energetically rich and very plentiful surface, snorkelers and divers alike can reproductive effluence. Whale-shark enjoy the spectacle. See “Placencia” in sightings are fairly common here from chapter 8.

4 THE BEST NONDIVING ADVENTURES

• Chartering a Sailboat for Some Iso- two-person sea kayak. Both Island lated Island Explorations: The pro- Expeditions (& 800/667-1630 or tected waters, steady gentle trade winds, 604/452-3212 in the U.S.; www.island and hundreds of isolated islands and expeditions.com) and Slickrock Adven- anchorages make Belize an ideal place tures (& 800/390-5715 or 435/259- for bareboat charters. Given the shallow 4225 in the U.S.; www.slickrock.com) draft, increased interior space, and run various adventurous multiday kayak reduced drag, a multihull is your best tours to small camps and lodges on THE BEST OF BELIZE OF BEST THE bet. The Moorings (& 888/952-8420 private isolated cayes of Glover’s Reef 1 in the U.S. and Canada, or 523-3351; Atoll. See “Dangriga” in chapter 8. www.moorings.com) and TMM (& 800/ • Riding an Inner Tube through the 633-0155 in the U.S., or 226-3026; Caves Branch River Cave System (Cayo www.sailtmm.com) are two large-scale District and Western Belize): This is charter companies with operations on certainly the most popular and probably Ambergris Caye and in Placencia. See the easiest way to explore Belize’s vast “Ambergris Caye” in chapter 7 and network of caves. You strap on a battery- “Placencia” in chapter 8. powered headlamp, climb into the cen- • Fly-Fishing for Bonefish, Permit & ter of an inflated car inner tube, and Tarpon on the Outer Atoll Flats: gently float through a series of limestone Belize is a world-class fishing destina- caves, your headlamp illuminating the tion, and while offshore fishing for stalactites and the occasional bat. The bigger game is possible, the real draw entire sensation is eerie and slightly here is fly-fishing for feisty and world- claustrophobic, but fun nonetheless— record size bonefish, permit, and tarpon especially if you go with a small group on

THE BEST NONDIVING ADVENTURES NONDIVING BEST THE (actually, the tarpon get as big as most a day when the caves are not crowded. deep-sea game). Turneffe Flats (& 888/ See “Belmopan” in chapter 10. 512-8812 in the U.S.; www.tflats.com) • Canoeing, Kayaking, or Inner Tubing is an excellent fishing operation located on the Macal or Mopan Rivers (West- on Turneffe Island Atoll. See “The ern Belize): These two rivers converge Outer Atolls” in chapter 7. around the city of San Ignacio, in the • Kayaking & Camping around Glov- Cayo District. Upstream from town on er’s Reef Atoll: The relatively calm either river are ample opportunities for protected waters of the atoll and man- paddling or floating. Depending on the ageable distances between islands make water level and the section you choose, this a perfect place to explore under this can range from a lazy canoe or your own power, paddling a one- or inner-tube paddle to a Class III kayak trip over rushing rapids. Any of the visits to jungle waterfalls and swimming 9 hotels in the Cayo District can help you holes, as well as nearby Mayan ruins. organize one of these adventures. See Mountain Equestrian Trails (& 669- “San Ignacio” in chapter 10. 1124; www.metbelize.com) has one of • Horseback Riding through the Cayo the better stables and horse-riding oper- District (Western Belize): The Cayo ations in the Cayo District. See “San District is a perfect area to explore on Ignacio” and “Mountain Pine Ridge & horseback. Rides can be combined with Caracol” in chapter 10.

5 THE BEST DAY HIKES & NATURE WALKS THE BEST OF BELIZE • Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve bordered on the west by Roaring Creek (Southern Belize): This large forest and on the north by the Belize River. reserve has an excellent network of well- See “Belmopan” in chapter 10. maintained trails. The Cockscomb • Blue Hole National Park (Cayo Dis- Basin Forest Reserve—in addition to trict and Western Belize): This hike being the only dedicated reserve combines a pleasant 2.4km (1.5-mile) designed to protect the endangered hike through dense primary and second- jaguar—is also home to an amazing ary tropical forest and a refreshing dip in array of tropical flora and fauna. Truly the park’s beautiful namesake swimming 1 adventurous hikers can arrange to climb hole, or cenote. If you hire a guide, you

Belize’s tallest mountain, Victoria Peak, can actually hike for several miles more THE BEST BIRDWATCING which is found inside this reserve. See inside the stunning Crystalline Cave. “Dangriga” in chapter 8. See “Belmopan” in chapter 10. • Guanacaste National Park (Cayo Dis- • Tikal National Park (Tikal, Guate- trict and Western Belize): This small mala): In addition to being one of the national park is located right on the side best excavated and preserved ancient of the Western Highway, about 3.2km Mayan cities, Tikal offers an extensive (2 miles) north of Belmopan. The gen- trail network running through dense tle trails and easy accessibility here tropical rainforest. Howler and spider make this an excellent choice for an monkeys clamor overhead, and parrots introduction to tropical forests. There squawk through the canopy. You can are nearly 3.2km (2 miles) of well- see a wealth of tropical fauna here, as marked and well-maintained trails in you slowly wander from plaza to plaza the park, with several benches for sit- and pyramid to pyramid. See “Tikal” in ting and observing wildlife. The park is chapter 11.

6 THE BEST BIRDWATCHING

Belize is home to some 618 species of resi- • Half Moon Caye National Monument dent and migratory birds. With varied (Northern Cayes and Atolls): This iso- ecosystems ranging from coastal mangroves lated wildlife and marine reserve is a and swamps; to isolated barrier-reef cayes; major nesting site for the red-footed to dense tropical rainforest and clear, open booby. Thousands of these birds can be savannahs, Belize is a wonderful destination spotted on the island at any one time, for avid bird-watchers and amateurs alike. an amazing sight. In addition, you can 10 also spot a wide range of resident and • New River Lagoon (Northern Belize): migratory sea birds here. See “The This wide-open lagoon is reached via the Outer Atolls” in chapter 7. winding and narrow New River, and • Man-O-War Caye (Southern Belize): branches off into a network of narrow This small caye is a government-moni- canals, streams, and marshlands, the tored bird sanctuary and major nesting perfect and preferred habitat for a wide site for the magnificent frigate, or man- range of bird species. Common species o-war. Circling the island in a small sighted include the black-collared hawk, boat, you’ll see hundreds of these large northern jacana, and purple gallinule. seabirds roosting on and hovering above You can combine a bird-watching trip the tiny caye. In addition to the frigates, here with a visit to the Lamanai Mayan the island also is home to a large com- ruin, which also has wonderful opportu- munity of brown boobies. See “Dan- nities for bird-watching all along its trails griga” in chapter 8. and from the peaks of its pyramids. See • Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve “The Submerged Crocodile: Lamanai” (Southern Belize): In addition to its in chapter 9. jaguar reserve, the Cockscomb Basin • Shipstern Nature Reserve (Northern Forest Reserve is home to a large num- Belize): Covering some 8,903 hectares ber of tropical forest–dwelling bird spe- (22,000 acres), including several dis- THE BEST OF BELIZE OF BEST THE cies. This is one of the best sites in tinct ecosystems, Shipstern Nature 1 Belize to spot the large and loud scarlet Reserve is home to over 250 bird spe- macaw, as well as several toucan species cies. You can explore the area on foot, as and the imposing king vulture. See well as in little dugout canoes and flat- “Dangriga” in chapter 8. bottomed boats. See “Corozal Town” in • Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary chapter 9. (Northern Belize): This rich wetland is • Caracol (Cayo District and Western perhaps the top bird-watching site in Belize): Also a major Mayan ruin, Cara- Belize. Home to hundreds of resident col and its surrounding forest are prime and migrant species, it is one of the best bird-watching destinations. The area is spots to see the giant and rare jabiru replete with numerous tropical forest stork, especially during the dry season. species, including such beauties as the THE BEST MAYAN RUINS MAYAN BEST THE You can spot various heron and king- keel-billed motmot, violaceous trogon, fisher species here, as well as the yellow- ocellated turkey, crested guan, and great lored parrot and Yucatán jay. See “En curassow. Some visitors have even spot- Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife ted the harpy eagle here. See “Mountain Sanctuary” in chapter 9. Pine Ridge & Caracol” in chapter 10.

7 THE BEST MAYAN RUINS

• Altun Ha (Northern Belize): One of the Many jade, pearl, and obsidian artifacts most easily accessible Mayan ruins from have been discovered here, including the Belize City, Altun Ha is a small yet well- unique jade-head sculpture of Kinich preserved site featuring two large central Ahau (the Mayan sun god), the largest plazas surrounded by midsized pyramids carved jade piece from the Mayan era. and mounds. Only a few of the most See “Along the Old Northern Highway: imposing temples, tombs, and pyramids Altun Ha & Maruba Resort Jungle Spa” have been uncovered and rebuilt; hun- in chapter 9. dreds more lie under the jungle foliage. • Lamanai (Northern Belize): One of the time, El Pilar will join the ranks of 11 more interesting and picturesque Mayan Caracol and Tikal as one of the major ruins in Belize, Lamanai features three Classic Mayan sites of this region. See large pyramids, a couple of residential “San Ignacio” in chapter 10. areas, various restored stelae, and open • Caracol (Cayo District and Western plazas, as well as a small and unique ball Belize): Caracol (www.caracol.org) is court. Moreover, the ruins of two 16th- the largest known Mayan archaeologi- century Spanish churches are nearby. cal site in Belize, and one of the great The site is set on the banks of the New Mayan city-states of the Classic era. River Lagoon. Since it was still occu- Located deep within the Chiquibil For- pied by the Maya when the Spanish est Reserve, the ruins are not nearly as arrived, Lamanai is one of the few sites well excavated as those at Tikal, Xunan- THE BEST OF BELIZE in Belize to retain its traditional name. tunich, or any number of other sites. See “The Submerged Crocodile: Lama- However, this is part of Caracol’s charm. nai” in chapter 9. The main pyramid here, Caana or “Sky • Xunantunich (Cayo District and West- Palace,” stands some 41m (136 ft.) ern Belize): Xunantunich is an impres- high; it is the tallest Mayan building in sive, well-excavated, and easily accessible Belize and still the tallest man-made Mayan site, close to San Ignacio. Xunan- structure in the country. See “Mountain tunich was a thriving Mayan city during Pine Ridge & Caracol” in chapter 10. the Classic Period, from about a.d. 600 • Tikal: Just over the Belizean border in 1 to 900. You’ll find carved stelae and one neighboring Guatemala, Tikal is the

very tall main pyramid here. To reach the grandest of the surviving Classic Mayan THE BEST VIEWS ruins, you must cross the Mopan River cities. Tikal is far more extensively exca- aboard a tiny hand-cranked car-ferry in vated than any ruins in Belize. The pyra- the village of San José Succotz. See “San mids here are some of the most perfect Ignacio” in chapter 10. examples of ceremonial architecture in • El Pilar (Cayo District and Western the Mayan world. The peaks of several Belize): El Pilar just may be the most temples poke through the dense rainfor- underappreciated major Mayan city in est canopy. Toucans and parrots fly Mesoamerica. The site is huge, with about, and the loudest noise you’ll hear over 25 known plazas, covering some is the guttural call of howler monkeys. In 40 hectares (100 acres) that straddle the its heyday, the city probably covered as Belize and Guatemala border. Excava- much as 65 sq. km (25 sq. miles) and tion and exploration here are in their supported a population of over 100,000. early stages, and I actually think that, in See “Tikal” in chapter 11.

8 THE BEST VIEWS

• The Blue Hole is probably best experi- with Astrum Helicopters (& 222- enced and viewed from above. A per- 5100; www.astrumhelicopters.com). See fectly round sinkhole measuring some chapters 3 and 7 for more information. 305m (1,000 ft.) across in the middle of • Try watching the sun rise over the New the Lighthouse Reef Atoll lagoon, the River Lagoon from a hammock strung Blue Hole appears as a deep, dark blue on the front porch of your veranda at circle in a sea of shimmering turquoise. the Lamanai Outpost Lodge (& 800/ The best way to get this bird’s-eye view 733-7864 in the U.S., or 672-2000 in 12 Belize; www.lamanai.com). It is a view is worth it. On a clear day, you’ll be able you’ll always treasure. The view is lovely to make out the twin border towns of throughout the day, but it’s worth wak- Benque Viejo, Belize, and Melchor de ing up early for. See chapter 9. Menchos, Guatemala. See chapter 10. • Although the main temple at Cerros is • Poking their heads over the dense rain- a just a diminutive 21m (70 ft.) tall, it forest canopy, the pyramids of Tikal offers excellent views across Corozal offer some of the best views to be found Bay. Moreover, this is an easy climb for in all of Central America. Temple IV is most, and far easier than the climbs to the tallest and the preferred platform for the tops of most other major Mayan enjoying this view, but Temple II just off ceremonial pyramids. See chapter 9. the Great Plaza is really just as good. Get • The main pyramid at Xunantunich, El here early, or stay late, to enjoy the views Castillo, rises to 39m (127 ft.). It’s a without the hustle and bustle of busloads steep climb, but the view from the top of tourists. See chapter 11.

9 THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR FAMILIES

• Belize Zoo (near Belize City): The Island Resort (& 226-2814; www. Belize Zoo (& 220-8003; www.belize xanaduresort-belize.com) and Captain 1 zoo.org) houses over 125 animals, all Morgan’s Retreat (& 888/653-9090 native Belizean species. It is considered or 307/587-8914 in the U.S., or 226- a national treasure and a model for the 2207 in Belize; www.belizevacation. possibilities of a conservation-based com) are two good choices for families. zoo. The zoo itself is wonderfully laid See “Ambergris Caye” in chapter 7. out, on meandering trails with large • Jaguar Reef Lodge (Hopkins Village, and well-maintained enclosures for the Southern Belize; & 800/289-5756 in animals. See “What to See & Do” in the U.S., or 520-7040 in Belize; www. chapter 6. jaguarreef.com): This intimate beach- • Old Belize (Belize City): Old Belize front resort has a range of amenities and (& 222-4286; www.oldbelize.com) is activities that will make parents happy part museum, part playground, part and keep kids occupied. In addition to beach, and part adventure attraction. the pool and long beach, this place has There’s something here for everyone, sea kayaks and mountain bikes, and an and plenty for the kids. It’s easy to extensive menu of daily tours and activ- spend several hours, if not a whole day ities. See p. 112.

THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR FAMILIES FOR DESTINATIONS BEST THE here. BELIZE OF BEST THE See p. 103. • The Inn at Robert’s Grove (Placencia, • Ambergris Caye (Northern Cayes and Southern Belize; & 800/565-9757 in Atolls): Ambergris Caye is the most the U.S., or 523-3565 in Belize; www. developed of Belize’s beach and diving robertsgrove.com): This is another small destinations. As such, it has the greatest beach resort that is well suited for fami- selection of hotels and activities, many lies. As at Jaguar Reef, there’s a wide of them either geared towards or just enough range of activities available here plain great for kids. From snorkeling to to keep families active and interested paragliding to touring the island on golf for a full vacation. What makes this carts and visiting the Butterfly Jungle, place slightly trump Jaguar Reef are its there’s plenty to keep families and kids two swimming pools and two private of all ages occupied here. Xanadu cayes. See p. 182. • Cayo District (Western Belize): The • Caves Branch (Cayo District and West- 13 Cayo District is the heart of Belize’s ern Belize): You’ll be heroes in your Mayan world, as well as its prime ecot- kids’ eyes after you take them inner- ourism destination. Between a full plate tubing through the dark and spooky of active adventure activities and a network of limestone caves traversed by steady diet of Mayan ruins and ancient the slow-moving Caves Branch River. burial caves, families will find this a Families looking for some creature great place to spend time in Belize. comfort would be wise to choose Jag- Chaa Creek (& 824-2037; www.chaa uar Paw (& 877/624-3770 in the creek.com) is not only extremely com- U.S., or 820-2023; www.jaguarpaw.com), fortable for families, but they also have while those with a real hankering for their own butterfly breeding project adventure should head to Ian Ander- THE BEST OF BELIZE and natural history museum on-site. son’s Caves Branch (& 822-2800; And if parents need a little pampering, www.cavesbranch.com). See “Belmopan” they also have an excellent spa. See in chapter 10. chapter 10.

10 THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS

• Radisson Fort George Hotel & rooms, suites, and villas is spread around Marina (Belize City; & 800/333-3333 an expansive piece of land planted with 1

in the U.S. or 223-3333 in Belize; www. lush tropical gardens. The hotel also has THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS radisson.com): This is the top business- one of the best restaurants in the coun- class and luxury hotel in Belize City. try, as well as a wonderful patch of soft This oceanfront hotel is located in the white-sand beach. See p. 129. quiet Fort George neighborhood, out • Cayo Espanto (just off the coast of by the lighthouse, just a block from the Ambergris Caye; & 888/666-4282 in cruise-ship tourist village. The hotel has the U.S. and Canada; www.aprivate an excellent swimming pool, a well- island.com): What could be more deca- equipped gym, several restaurants and dent and luxurious than staying in a bars, and easy access to the best Belize private villa, with a private swimming City has to offer. See p. 95. pool, a private dock, and a personal • The Great House (Belize City; & 223- butler, on an almost private island? 3400; www.greathousebelize.com): (There are six villas here, although you Housed in an old wooden mansion a can rent out the whole island if you half-block from the lighthouse, this like.) This place pulls out all the stops, place offers up plush, well-equipped providing all the modern conveniences rooms, with an intimate and elegant and pampering possible on a desert- vibe. Try for one of the top-floor rooms, island getaway. See p. 131. with great views over the harbor and • Turtle Inn (Placencia; & 800/746- city. See p. 95. 3743 in the U.S., or 824-4912; www. • Victoria House (Ambergris Caye; turtleinn.com): Building on the experi- & 800/247-5159 or 713/344-2340 in ence gained from his Blancaneaux the U.S., or 226-2067; www.victoria- Lodge, and building upon the ruins of house.com): Casual elegance and atten- a hotel destroyed by Hurricane Iris, tive service await you at this Ambergris director Francis Ford Coppola has Caye resort. A varied collection of upped the ante on high-end hotels in 14 Belize. The individual villas here are the beautiful Guatemalan textiles and handi- most beautiful and luxurious in Belize. crafts are elegantly yet simply combined. The hotel is set right on an excellent The property is set on a steep hillside stretch of beach, and the service and over the lovely Macal River. Service is dining are top-notch. See p. 183. very friendly and personable, and the • Machaca Hill Lodge (Punta Gorda; lodge provides easy access to a wealth of & 722-0050; www.machacahill.com): natural adventures and ancient Mayan This is by far the most luxurious option wonders. See p. 245. around Punta Gorda, and one of the • Blancaneaux Lodge (Mountain Pine nicer rain forest lodges in the country. Ridge Reserve, Cayo District; & 800/ This place features a series of large and 746-3743 in the U.S., or 824-4912; plush individual cabins set on a thickly www.blancaneaux.com): Francis Ford forested hillside. See p. 196. Coppola’s first Belizean mountain • Maruba Resort Jungle Spa (off the retreat remains one of the most elegant Old Northern Hwy.; & 800/627-8227 and luxurious nature lodges in the in the U.S., or 225-5555; fax 225-5506; country. The hotel is set on a steep www.maruba-belize.com): This small pine-forested hillside, overlooking the resort and spa is set in a patch of lush Privassion River and a series of gentle forest and flowering gardens. The whole falls. The individual cabanas are all spa- operation is an eclectic orgy designed to cious, are beautifully decorated, and 1 please the eyes and all other senses. The feature a private balcony or deck individual villas here are spectacular. A designed to take in the excellent views. wide range of spa treatments is available, The hotel recently added a wonderful and excellently and professionally done. riverside spa facility. See p. 254. Don’t miss out on their signature Mood • La Lancha Resort (Lago Petén Itzá, Mud Massage, perhaps one of the few Petén; & 800/746-3743 in the U.S., massage experiences for which you’ll or &/fax 502/7928-8331 in Guate- want to bring a camera. See p. 202. mala; www.lalanchavillage.com): Set on • Chaa Creek (off the road to Benque a steep, high hillside overlooking the Viejo, Cayo District; & 824-2037; lake, this is the plushest option close to www.chaacreek.com): A pioneer nature the amazing ruins of Tikal. Another of lodge in Belize, this collection of indi- Francis Ford Coppola’s regional resorts, vidual and duplex cottages was also a the rooms here are once again decorated pioneer in the whole concept of rustic with style, featuring furniture and art- luxury. Cool terra-cotta tile floors, work from around the world. The food varnished wood, thatched roofs, and is also excellent. See p. 274. THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS PRICED MODERATELY BEST THE BELIZE OF BEST THE 11 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS

• San Pedro Holiday Hotel (Ambergris and it’s still one of the best. Grab a Caye; & 226-2014; www.sanpedro room with an oceanview balcony and holiday.com): This brilliantly white you’ll be in tropical vacation heaven. three-building complex with painted See p. 128. purple and pink trim sits in the center • Tides Beach Resort (Ambergris Caye; of San Pedro town. This was the first & 226-2283; www.ambergriscaye.com/ hotel on Ambergris Caye when Celi tides): Every room comes with either a McCorkle opened it over 40 years ago, private or shared balcony or veranda overlooking the Caribbean Sea. The the best option in the town of Punta 15 hotel and its in-house dive shop are run Gorda itself, this little bed-and-break- by the very friendly and highly respected fast is set right on the edge of the ocean. local couple of Patojo and Sabrina Paz. The hotel offers neat rooms, a refresh- See p. 128. ing pool, and free Wi-Fi access through- • Seaside Cabanas (Caye Caulker; & 226- out its rooms and grounds. See p. 197. 0498; www.seasidecabanas.com): This • Cahal Pech Village Resort (San Igna- place offers up comfy rooms, a fabulous cio, Cayo District; & 888/790-5264 location, and a complete range of ame- in the U.S. and Canada; or 824-3740 nities, all at a great price. Located in the in Belize; www.cahalpech.com): With a heart of downtown Caye Caulker, it commanding hillside perch, this collec- also boasts one of the few pools on the tion of individual cabins and hotel THE BEST OF BELIZE island. See p. 146. rooms is an excellent option in the San • Blue Crab Resort (Seine Bight Village; Ignacio area. The resort is located just & 523-3544; www.bluecrabbeach. beyond the entrance to the Cahal Pech com): Simple, comfortable, and cool Mayan ruins, and a whole host of tours rooms located on a beautiful and iso- and activities can be arranged here. See lated patch of beach make this a won- p. 242. derful option. Throw in an excellent • Black Rock Jungle River Lodge (Cayo restaurant serving eclectic international District; & 824-2529; www.blackrock fare, and you’ve got the makings of a lodge.com): Located down a long dirt 1 perfect getaway. This place is located road on the edge of a cliff overlooking

just a little bit north of the traditional the Macal River, this place offers up all THE BEST BUDGET HOTELS Garífuna village of Seine Bight. See the benefits and amenities of a top- p. 184. notch ecolodge at very reasonable rates. • Coral House Inn (Punta Gorda; & 722- See p. 247. 2878; www.coralhouseinn.net): By far

12 THE BEST BUDGET HOTELS

• Belcove Hotel (Belize City; & 227- older and more historic hotels on the 3054; www.belcove.com): This budget island, and you just can’t do much bet- hotel is set on the banks of Haulover ter on Ambergris Caye for this price. Creek, just a block from the Swing See p. 128. Bridge and the heart of downtown • De Real Macaw (Caye Caulker; & 226- Belize City. The old wooden building is 0459; www.derealmacaw.biz): This in funky shape, but the river-view bal- small compound on Front Street in conies are one of my favorite spots in all Caye Caulker is a great bargain. The of Belize to sit and read a book, or hotel is close to all the action, and the watch the sporadic action on the river rooms are clean, cool, and comfortable. and streets below. See p. 97. Plenty of trees strung with hammocks • Ruby’s (Ambergris Caye; & 226-2063; make this a great place for a well- www.ambergriscaye.com/rubys): Located deserved tropical siesta. See p. 147. right on the waterfront in the center of • Tree Tops Guest House (Caye Caulker; San Pedro, most of the rooms here & 226-0240; www.treetopsbelize.com): overlook the ocean, and the best ones While the best rooms here actually fall come with a balcony. This is one of the into the moderately priced category 16 (and are some of the best rooms on ocean reclaims them. But if you get here Caye Caulker), the whole place offers soon enough and land one of them, such good value for your money that it’s you’ll likely never want to leave. Each getting a listing in this category. The has a private front porch strung with a budget rooms here continue to set the hammock, where you can swing and standard on Caye Caulker, and the ser- listen to the lapping waves. See p. 186. vice is friendly, knowledgeable, and • Mirador Hotel (Corozal Town; & 442- attentive. See p. 147. 0189; www.mirador.bz): While the • Tipple Tree Beya (Hopkins Village; large concrete building is a bit imposing &/fax 520-7006; http://tippletree.net): and lacking in warmth, you can’t beat There are just five simple rooms at this the view or location of this new down- friendly hostel-like option at the south- town hotel. And the price is pretty right ern end of Hopkins Village. However, if as well. See p. 221. the rooms are full, you can also camp. • Midas Tropical Resort (San Ignacio, The hotel sits on a lovely section of Cayo District; & 824-3172; www. beach, and is within easy walking dis- midasbelize.com): Sure you can stay in tance of the small Garífuna village of San Ignacio for a little less, but this col- Hopkins. See p. 174. lection of cottages and cabins is just a • Jungle Jeanie’s by the Sea (Hopkins half-mile or so from downtown, right Village; & 523-7047; www.jungleby on the banks of the Macal River. You 1 thesea.com): Located at the southern can also camp here. The whole thing end of this small traditional Garífuna has the feel of an isolated nature lodge, fishing village, the individual wooden at a fraction of the cost. See p. 243. cabins are just steps from the ocean on • Hotel Santana (Flores, Petén, Guate- a beautiful patch of beach. See p. 174. mala; &/fax 502/7867-5123 or 7867- • Tradewinds (Placencia; & 523-3122; 5193; www.santanapeten.com): This www.placencia.com): Set on a curving lakefront hotel is the best budget choice spit of sand at the southern edge of on the island of Flores. In fact, it might Placencia, the individual cabins here are just be the best hotel on the island itself, so close to the water’s edge that I worry regardless of price. See p. 284. it’s only a matter of time before the THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE BELIZE OF BEST THE

13 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• Harbour View (Belize City; & 223- • Wet Lizard (Belize City; & 223-5973): 6420): Set on the water’s edge over- Much less formal than the Harbour looking the juncture of Haulover Creek View mentioned above, this often- and the Caribbean Sea, this is the most rowdy little restaurant and bar still creative and elegant restaurant in Belize serves up excellent fresh seafood and City. Fresh seafood and local staples are burgers, in an open-air setting over- cooked with fusion flare and some looking the Swing Bridge and Belize Asian accents. If the weather’s right and Harbor. This is a great place to savor you land one of the outdoor tables on some late-afternoon conch fritters and a the wraparound veranda, you’ll enjoy refreshing drink. See p. 99. the finest dining experience available in • Elvi’s Kitchen (San Pedro, Ambergris the city. See p. 99. Caye; & 226-2176; www.elviskitchen. com): Elvia Staines has come a long way since she began selling hamburgers out Asian cuisines, this is a perennial must- 17 of a takeout window over 30 years ago. visit restaurant on Caye Caulker. Be Today her friendly and very popular sure to grab one of the outdoor tables restaurant oozes island charm. The res- on the wraparound porch. See p. 149. taurant is a thatched, screened-in build- • Rasta Pasta Rainforest Café (Caye ing with picnic tables, with a large Caulker; & 206-0356): Sure there are flamboyant tree growing up through the fancier places on Caye Caulker, but this roof and a floor of crushed shells and long-standing and perennially popular sand. No visit to Ambergris Caye is com- option offers up a wide and eclectic plete without a meal here. See p. 134. menu, huge portions, and excellent • Palmilla (Ambergris Caye; & 226- service. What’s more, the food is deli- 2067): This is easily the most elegant cious and there are some top-notch THE BEST OF BELIZE and finest dining to be had on Amber- vegetarian selections. See p. 149. gris Caye, if not in all of Belize. The • The French Connection (Placencia; atmosphere is island formal, meaning & 523-3656): This new place has been relaxed yet refined at the same time, the buzz in Placencia, and they’ve and the chefs here prepare the freshest already outgrown their first location. At of local ingredients with a creative once elegant and relaxed, the food here blend of techniques, spices, and cui- is a creative take on contemporary bis- sines from around the world. When the tro fare. See p. 187. weather’s nice, you can dine under the • Marian’s Bayview (Punta Gorda; 1 stars by candlelight. See p. 134. & 722-0129): The ambience and decor

• Casa Picasso (Ambergris Caye; & 226- here are basic—at best. But the mix of THE BEST AFTERDARK FUN 4507): Located on the back side of San Indian and Belizean cuisine is some of Pedro, this hyper-hip place serves up a the most spectacular in southern Belize. broad menu of creative tapas-size items. The small menu changes regularly, but There are almost as many martini con- always includes some of Marian’s coctions and an ample dessert menu to expertly prepared spicy East Indian fare. choose from as well. See p. 134. See p. 199. • Rojo Lounge (Ambergris Caye; & 226- • Café Sol (San Ignacio; & 824-2166): 4012): The folks at Azul Resort, an Not only does this place serve up some isolated little place on Northern Amber- of the best food in San Ignacio, it’s also gris Caye, serve up very creative and my favorite place to hang out for a while well-prepared fusion cuisine in a relaxed after enjoying a meal. See p. 244. and inviting open-air ambience. The • La Luna (Flores, Guatemala; & 502/ menu features some of the more cre- 7926-3346): If you find yourself in ative fusion items to be had—no mean Flores, Guatemala, be sure to seek out feat, given the competition—and there this hip little restaurant. The eclectic are also nightly specials. See p. 136. decor varies from room to room, but • Habaneros (Caye Caulker; & 226- like the food, it is consistently creative 0487): Featuring a creative menu with and tasteful. See p. 285. influences from various Caribbean and

14 THE BEST AFTERDARK FUN

Belize doesn’t really have all that much in small and relatively quiet by most interna- the way of nightlife. The capital city is tional standards. In both the capital and 18 throughout the rest of the country, you’d sporting events, and always an interest- be hard-pressed to find a truly notable bar ing mix of locals, expatriates, and tour- or club. Still, some unique after-dark des- ists alike. See p. 101. tinations and activities are out there, and • Barefoot Iguana (Ambergris Caye; should not be missed. & 226-2927): This cavernous bar fea- • Stargazing: This is one of my favorite tures everything from hot local DJs to nighttime activities, but it is especially mud-wrestling to sporting events shown rewarding when there is no (or little) on a giant screen. The two-story han- ambient light. Given its sparse develop- gar-sized space is hung with faux jungle ment and low population density, Belize plants and foliage, and it has quickly offers a wealth of opportunities for become the most happening nightspot some truly spectacular stargazing. Your in San Pedro. See “Ambergris Caye” in best spots are the isolated beach get- chapter 7. aways of Belize’s three mid-ocean atolls, • Barefoot Beach Bar (Placencia; & 523- but you can also enjoy the astronomical 3515): Located on the beachfront, just splendor from any number of deserted off the central sidewalk, this casual beaches or rural mountain getaways. outdoor spot is the best place in Placen- • Night Diving: If you’ve come to Belize cia to enjoy some live music or a simple to scuba dive, you should definitely try drink with friends in a totally tropical a night dive. Many creatures are noctur- setting, befitting the place. See “Placen- 1 nal, and the reefs here come alive at cia” in chapter 8. night. Moreover, the brilliant colors of • Moon Rise at Tikal: Watching the full the coral and sea life really shine under moon rise from the top of Temple IV in the strong glare of an underwater light, Tikal is one of the highlights of my and there’s something truly eerie about many travels to this region. You’ll have the experience. All of the major dive to stay at one of the hotels on-site to do destinations and resorts offer night div- this, and you may even have to per- ing. See chapter 5 and the destination suade or bribe a park guard. You’ll also chapters for more details. have to time your visit with the moon • Riverside Tavern (Belize City; & 223- phase. But if all these things come 5640): Featuring excellent steaks, fresh together, you’re in for a memorable and fish, and bar food, this place is a awe-inspiring evening. See “Tikal” in local favorite. There are TV screens for chapter 11.

THE BEST WEBSITES ABOUT BELIZE ABOUT WEBSITES BEST THE 15 BELIZE OF BEST THE THE BEST WEBSITES ABOUT BELIZE

• Latin American Network Informa- • Belize by Naturalight (www.belizenet. tion Center (http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/ com): This is probably the single best ca/belize): Hosted by the University of collection of links to Belize’s individual Texas Latin American Studies Depart- hotels, restaurants, and attractions. The ment, this site houses a vast collection site also boasts links to the various of information about Belize. This is regions and destinations within Belize, hands-down the best one-stop shop for as well as links to most other major and Web browsing on the country, with important websites on the country. helpful links to a wide range of tourism • The Belize Forums (www.belizeforum. and general-information sites. com): These are active and informative forums on living in and traveling spelling guide and Kriol dictionary here 19 around Belize. Several regular posters as well. are quite knowledgeable, and are gener- • The Toucan Trail (www.toucantrail. ous with that knowledge. com): This is an excellent site geared • Belize News (www.belizenews.com): towards budget travelers, with extensive This site provides access to all of Belize’s links and comprehensive information. major online news sources, including all • Belize Tourist Board (www.travel the major weekly print newspapers. belize.org): This is the official site of the • Belize Kriol (www.kriol.org.bz): If you Belize Tourist Board. It has its fair share want to know about Belize’s Kriol (Cre- of information and links, although ole) culture, this is the place to go. The you’ll probably end up being directed to site includes pages on Kriol history, one of the other sites mentioned THE BEST OF BELIZE culture, and language. There’s a handy earlier.

1 THE BEST WEBSITES ABOUT BELIZE