OCT WHAT’S ON 2013 HAVANA ! Praise be to Our Virgen de la Caridad BY Victoria Alcala Just when you think you know Cubans BY Conner Gorry

D'DISEGNO. V Festival Leo Havana Guide Respuesta Brouwer de to the Best cubana! Música de Places to eat, Cámara Bars, Clubs Through Sep 24 – Oct 13 & Museums October p 13 p 32 p 49 PRODUCED BY .COM .COM

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PRODUCED BY .COM Leo Brower (Sep 28, 2013) by Alexander Mene

Cover picture by Alexander Mene on Sep 8th, 2013 at the procession of Our Lady of Charity (La Virgen de la Caridad) around Nuestra Señora de la EDITORIAL Caridad Parrish in Centro Habana.

Welcome to our new look - What’s On Havana for October 2013. Any feedback, comments and suggestions are always welcome. [email protected]. We have added a number of featured articles this month including a profile of Havana’s Horse Whisperer - Miguel Ginarte, a piece on Cubans devotion to Our Lady of Charity (La Virgen de la Caridad), Conner Gorry’s always insightful ‘Just when you think you know Cubans’ as well as detailed profiles and reviews of Maria Cienfuegos, Sue Herrod and Danza Combinatoria’s Tributo a El monte. The V Festival Leo Brouwer de Música de Cámara is this month’s highlighted event with a program that has managed to combine in an innovative and daring way the traditional with the contemporary. Don’t miss Paco de Lucía en vivo (he is the soul of flamenco); De Vivaldi al minimalismo and the more ‘classical’, De sonatas, conciertos y fantasias. Elsewhere the Museo de Bellas Artes continues its centenary program with exhibitions by Mario Carreño. If you like design you will love D’DISEGNO. Respuesta cubana! curated by Concha Fontenla at Factoría Habana and featuring Cuba’s best young designers. If dance is your thing, highlights include the Ballet Nacional de Cuba (Teatro Mella, Oct 9th), the premiere of Coincidencias produced by the Irene Rodríguez’s Spanish dance com- pany at the Teatro Nacional (Oct 18-19th) and Retazos’s Momentos produced by Isabel Bustos (Oct 16th). In Havana’s theatre scene if you missed the brilliant Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer last month now’s you chance for it has an extended run at the Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht. The always audaciously good, (and not a little controversial), Teatro El Público, is performing Antigonón at the Teatro Trianón. October is Brazilian cultural month with a varied program including a series of feature films, shorts and documentaries dedicated to the Leon Hirszman (Oct 7-13 at the Cine Chaplin). Finally, October 20th (which is Cuban National Culture Day) marks the 145th Anniversary of the Cuban National Anthem, La Bayamesa, which was heard for the first time when rebel troops led by Carlos Manuel de Céspedes freed the city of Bayamo in 1868. Viva Cuba! Miguel Ginarte – Havana’s Horse Whisperer BY Margaret Atkins p 6 Just when you think you know Cubans BY Conner Gorry p 8 Praise be to Our Lady of Charity! BY Lucia Lamadrid p 11 María Cienfuegos: using photography to overthrow the tedium CONTENTS BY Ricardo Alberto Pérez p 18 Rosario Cárdenas & Danza Combina- toria’s Tributo a El monte OCTOBER 2013 BY Victoria Alcala p 21 V Festival Leo Brouwer de Música de Cámara BY Victoria Alcala p 32 Up Into the Silence Interview WITH Sue Herrod p 36 Caldosa & rum for the fiesta del barrio ContentsBY Victoria Alcala p 46 The birth of the Cuban National Anthem BY Lucia Lamadrid p 47

Plastic arts p 12 HAVANA Photography p 16 Dance p 19 CULTURE / Ballet / Modern dance THIS MONTH Music p 23 / Classical music / Jazz / Trova & bolero / Salsa/timba HAVANA GUIDE / Heavy metal concerts The best places to eat in Havana p 49 / Contemporary fusion Theatre p 39 The best bars & clubs in Havana p 52 Other events in Havana p 43 Havana’s best museums p 55 For Kids p 44 Other events p 45

.COM With a passion for Cuba PAGE 3 Miguel Ginarte – Havana's Horse Whisperer by Margaret Atkins

Drive down 5th Ave in Havana's Miramar neighborhood, his mother was in labor, his dad took his mom on and when you reach the road to Pabexpo on 146th Street, horseback to see the doctor and on horseback they turn left and just ask the locals to guide you to Miguel brought him home after his birth. That's his explanation Ginarte's Finca. Don't worry, you won't get lost; everybody for his love of horses and why he is able to communicate knows where the finca is and how to get there. with these animals so easily. So much so that he is dubbed “The Horse Whisperer.” As a kid, he would ride any horse Look for the dirt road that takes you to the entrance. On that crossed his way, even the ones that would only allow one side, you'll see a paddock; on the other, a long line of their owners to come near them. In his teens, he would bet carriages like the ones used in colonial days. Park your car 100 pesos that he could break in even the wildest horses. and walk up to the door of the modest wooden building. And he always won. He is now 73 years old and continues When we arrived, a sheep lying next to the entrance lifts to be an exceptional horseman. Every day, he rides his his head and stares at us. magnificent white Arabian horse around the ranch that fills his entire existence. Ask any of the people who are coming and going for Miguel Ginarte. If it's morning, they'll probably tell you that he's Speaking of the ranch, this is not your old every day, run- having breakfast (the only meal of the day he doesn't skip). of-the-mill rancho. The branches of many trees hold old They'll take you to the living room where you will walk past vehicle bodies, which Ginarte has placed there with the a n a s s o r t m e n t o f p r i z e s , d i p l o m a s , a n d help of a crane. You'll also find safes, carriage wheels, acknowledgements. typewriters, furniture, earthenware, and anything that you can name. Miguel and his people rescue these objects, While you wait, take time out to observe the decor. The restore them and keep them for use in a film or TV show. living room, like the rest of the house, looks more like a The ranch is attached to the Department of Scenography museum and warehouse than a dwelling. Family pictures of Cuban Television and provides animals, plants, and vie for space with pictures of important Cuban political vehicles for shows. I recall at least three “telenovelas” set and entertainment figures. Antique clocks, sewing in the countryside, which have been shot there. machines, a wide collection of ties, kerosene lamps, saddles, hats and even an antique washbowl with running But perhaps, the most outstanding part of the finca and water clutter the room. But let me give you some Ginarte is that it has become a sort of “rehabilitation” information on the man before you meet with him. center for teenagers with behavioral issues. Under Ginarte's guidance, these kids become hardworking men, Miguel Ginarte was born in the eastern part of Cuba, the who will take on any chore on the ranch and act as extras son of Dora Ginarte and Adriano Ricardo González. When and even stuntmen for film and television. One story that

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 6 I bet you're thinking that you already know this person who you'll be meeting in a while. But you're still in for a few surprises. Listen to his anecdotes from his time in the Rebel Army, or when he fought in Ethiopia. But under his stern glance, there is a bottomless well of tenderness.

Go and join him and his kids one afternoon in cleaning the grounds. And after you have experienced the hospitality of these people; and you have talked with the neighbors of Las Canteras (who want to change the name of their neighborhood to Miguel Ginarte Community); and you have ridden a horse that Miguel himself has chosen for you, then spread the news:

There is a small ranch in Havana that is run by a man who was born in Dos Ríos, the place where Cuba's Apostle of has become a legend with the workers of the Cuban Independence and National Hero, José Martí, died. And Institute of Radio and Television is the time that Ginarte this man and this ranch have the ability to restore the faith needed to bring some horses from the province of in human betterment, even to diehard skeptics. Camagüey: a couple of his kids brought them cross- country on a journey that lasted 18 days. Miguel's doors are always open to friends.

His work with these kids did not always have the blessing Continue to read full article + slideshow of the powers that be. In the beginning, they were nicknamed Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. However, hard work, discipline and bucketfuls of love proved that he was on the right track. Miguel Ginarte and his kids clean the beach and help firemen after hurricanes.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 7 Just When you think you know Cubans by Conner Gorry

Loud, machista, brand-loco, bossy, gold medal (but loose has been off-island and each works for the state (as well as and slippery) lovers: one – or several – of these 'por la izquierda' because that's how survival rolls here). stereotypes applies to most of the Cubans I know. Age might be a factor – the folks I write about are between 25 and 40 – but I'll have to think more on that since I don't Its true Cubans tend to be noisy, romp with aplomb, and have the analytical energy just now. By chance (or not), sow their oats with gusto and few regrets. They are also each person described below is also male, but again, my big talkers – 'waxing eloquent on topics about which analytical reserves fail me. theyre clueless or avoiding silence at all costs; I know a lot of women here, for instance, who never, and I mean ever, What I'm coming to realize as I write this is that place – la shut their mouths, talking about whatever minor thought siempre fidelíssima Isla de Cuba – has much to do with skips across their brains (I always send a silent shot of their character (each is proud to be Cuban), but little to do strength to the spouse when I meet a woman like this). with their mold breaking: these people would be, and will Then there's the Cuban classic, which I call 'blah, blah, be, who they are, no matter where they are. blah': giving a long, considered response – to an entirely different question than the one asked. Actions belying The Musician: words also falls into this “classic” category. I'm not sure I've met a Cuban as callado as this guy in the nearly dozen years I've lived here. He's so quiet he makes These are all generalizations of course – but that doesn't me nervous. Have I insulted him? Is he bored? Does he obviate their veracity. Indeed, stereotypes exist because simply have nothing to say? This last I discount not only they apply to huge swaths of a population. And if you know because he has that 'still waters run deep' thing going on, Cubans, you know that these generalizations are true for but also because when he's on stage playing his cutting- many or even most. Which is why I've become fascinated edge compositions, he speaks volumes. with stereotype-defying folks here. People who break the mold anywhere have always intrigued me, but Cuba has When I asked a mutual friend: 'what gives with Daniel? I've traditionally emphasized unity over individuality, is small known my share of strong, silent types, but he kind of and (relatively) isolated, meaning there are fewer mold- takes it to the extreme, doesn't he?' She laughed. 'Yeah, breakers. I've known him my whole life and I'd swear he was born in Europe instead of La Ceiba.' Quiet, measured, urbane, and These are what I call, for lack of a better term, 'not-very- bling-free: he actually reminds me of some New Yorkers I Cuban' Cubans. Each one was born and raised here, lives know, this 'not very Cuban' Cuban. on the island still, went to all the same schools, political rallies and lame concerts (Air Supply, ahem) as the rest, but The Born Again: exhibit few typically Cuban traits. Sure, they're missing One of Cuba's new frontiers is being mapped out by pews teeth, can be unreliable, and are prone to slack; in the end, and altars, chapels and collection plates (big, deep ones). they're a product of their context and yet…not. As an agnostic skeptical of all organized religion and someone who has seen both the good and bad wrought by I've met a couple of their kind over the years, but recently evangelical churches throughout Latin America, I have to I've come to know several fairly well – they intrigue and say all the conversion going on around here has me puzzle me in equal measure. For instance, not one of them concerned. The phenomenon is replicating itself from cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 8 Sandino to Baracoa, with record numbers of converts packing pews most nights and some days too, as they maddening crowd is the gamer in him – he admits to attend bible study, Sunday school and other church-y shutting himself in for 8 hours or more when he's activities (see note 1). The people I know in Havana who have mastering a new game – but I thought everyone here was been sucked in belong to these churches are usually either hard-wired for social gad flying. To an extent, anyway. not too bright or dealing with some social issue – This guy, however, would hole up on a mountaintop with alcoholism or delinquency, for instance. just the bare necessities given the chance, which sounds extreme even to me, a solitary mountain girl at heart. But not my 'not very Cuban' Cuban friend, who breaks even this mold: he's smart, has a good job, a wife, his own In another inversion of a Cuban stereotype, he's not afraid transport, a nice place to live and two happy, well- to ask questions, learn about what he doesn't know, and adjusted children. Furthermore, he was always more of a pursue new experiences – including hard work. He's got a rebel than a joiner, rejecting the mob mentality. Flash hunger for knowledge and the confidence to seek it out I forward to any recent Sunday, however and he's wholly don't see that often in Cuba's 20-somethings. It's subsumed by one of these churches – to the tune of refreshing and hopeful, especially because it comes from several times a week for 8 hours at a clip. And the the next generation, too much of which has lost hope here. proselytizing has begun, with non-responders feeling the freeze-out. Notes 1. Let me emphasize that I'm referring to anti-scientific, charismatic The Gamer: churches (what's sometimes referred to as neo-charismatic or neo- Pentecostal), not the traditional kind where you go on Sunday to pray Hyper observant and curious, this 'not very Cuban' Cuban and catch up with the congregation. The kind that freak me out are the takes people to task for littering and 'envidia' (see note 2), ones where the pastor fairly preys on his flock, encouraging adoration of has lovely manners, smells naturally great in the heart of him and distance from non-believing friends and family. summer (see note 3), and pardons himself when he 2. This is a very negative, very Cuban concept which literally translates as (infrequently) interrupts. He's also vehemently anti- 'envy' but runs much deeper, to the roots of want, need, greed, and gossip and comfortable being alone – criteria enough to paranoia. make him a peculiar Cuban. Surely this aversion to the Continue to read full article + slideshow

Conner Gorry is one of the most insightful writers about Cuba. Author of Here is Havana blog (http://hereishavana.wordpress.com/), she also puts together the Havana Good Time iPad/Phone/Touch application http://itunes.apple.com/app/havana-good-time/id385663683?mt=8 (Android version) http://sutromedia.com/android/Havana_Good_Time - essential guide to What's On in Havana. cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 9

Praise be to Our Lady of Charity! by Lucia Lamadrid

While many Cubans are by nature somewhat skeptical Every year, several thousands of Cubans of all ages, races when it comes to religion, it doesn't take much of a mishap and social position accompany the statue in the before “Our Lady of Charity” (often known by the more traditional procession that takes place in the working- intimate “Cachita”) is invoked for believers and non- class neighborhood of Centro Habana. This tradition was believers alike. The church is well aware that while some taken up again after the historic visit of Pope John Paul to people venerate the Marian image of Our Lady of Charity, Cuba in 1998. The statue of the Virgin is carried on a while others worship Ochun, the Orisha of love and platform followed by a throng people that carry candles or money, the river Goddess, who always wears yellow and flowers – sunflowers mostly. Many wear yellow, which is others manage to worship both the Christian virgin and the color that identifies Our Lady of Charity. The people the goddess of the Yoruba religion syncretized in one. walk solemnly for several blocks around Nuestra Señora de la Caridad Parrish in Centro Habana. The procession is The image itself is syncretic – part of a process that has headed by Jaime Ortega, Archbishop of the Archdiocese of occurred through the centuries. The white man, the black Havana. man and the mulatto that lie at her feet in a small boat is a reminder of the three men– one black and two Indians– This past September 8th 2013, was no different in Havana. who found a small wooden statue of the Virgin Mary During the procession, the people sang hymns, prayed holding the child Jesus in her arms while sailing around and shouted Viva! to Cuba's Patroness and the Church. the Bay of Nipe in the early 17th century. The statue was Other people followed the procession from the rooftops fastened to a board with an inscription saying “I am the and porches of their homes. The procession ended at the Virgin of Charity.” This is the same diverse, multiracial and Parrish of Our Lady of Charity where the Archbishop said devout Cuban people that now make the pilgrimage, rain Mass and made an appeal for peace around the world, in or shine, and adorn the road with yellow sunflowers, particular Syria. calling out to her over and over: “Praise be to Our Lady of Charity!” Although the principal celebration on this day takes place in Santiago de Cuba at the Virgin's National Sanctuary, this For the Catholic world as a whole, September 8th marks beautiful and moving demonstration of faith takes place the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. She is venerated in all over Cuba. Our Lady of Charity is a symbol of identity many countries, cities and regions as their patroness, for Cubans wherever they may be, and her significance usually under a specific title or apparition. This is the case transcends the Catholic faith to the culture and history of of Cuba, which celebrates that day as the feast day of Our Cuba. Lady of Charity. Continue to read full article + slideshow

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 11 ART ! MARIANO EN CONTEMPORÁNEO GALERÍA LA ACACIA THROUGH NOVEMBER 25

Mariano en contemporáneo is an exhibition of 41 drawings by the Cuban painter Mariano Rodríguez (1912-1990), one of the most important artists of the so-called Havana School.

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam THROUGH DECEMBER 1

Memorias de la obsolescencia is a selection of videos from the Ella Fontanals-Cisneros Collection with works by artists of different nationalities and styles dating from the beginnings of this manifestation to the present day, including Mariana Abramovic, Francys Alÿs, Magdalena Fernández, Ana Mendieta, Song Dong, Cao Fei, Jimmie Durham, Miguel Ángel Ríos and Francesca Woodman. Special emphasis is made on Latin American contemporary art.

LOS COLORES DEL SONIDO GALERÍA SERVANDO THROUGHOUT OCTOBER

Artists Eduardo Roca (Choco), Nelson Domínguez, Liang Domínguez, Alberto Lescay, José Luis Fariñas, Roberto Fabelo and Roberto Camilo Fabelo joined forces in Colores del sonido (Colors of Sound) on occasion of the Leo Brouwer Music Festival.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edifico de Arte Cubano THROUGH NOVEMBER

Mario Carreño: donde empieza la luz, dedicated to Cuban painter Mario Carreño, one of the principal figures of Cuban and Latin American avant-garde, exhibits 30 oil paintings and drawings made by the artist between 1937 and 1957, considered his most productive period.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 12 Gracias cerebro por dejarme en paz. Remedies for imsomnia Idania del Rio

Exhibition D’DISEGNO Respuesta cubana!

Exhibition D’DISEGNO. Respuesta cubana!, curated by Concha Fontenla, includes artworks created by over twenty artists rela- ted to artistic design –epistemological field that merges the frontiers between design as production mean and knowledge, and art as a way to give expression to aesthetic and conceptual experiences–, and is set to be open on September 20, 8:00 pm in Factoría Habana. The display’s title refers to the DISEGNO etymology, defined in Jorge Rodriguez (R10) the 15th century by Alberti as a “plane that was born out of the spirit, and implemented in lines and angles”, drawing, project, prefiguration of “what it will be”, idea and form, a process that supports creation, from its intellectual conception of material concretion. Respuesta cubana is a contribution by Jorge Rodri- guez (R10), who, through the poster created for this event, proc- laims a “call for creative production”. In order to contextualize this topic, it would be necessary to tackle the present and fertile relation between design as technology and art as practice, as knowledge. The chosen artists are: Adriana Arronte, Marlén Castellanos, DeKuba, Idania del Río, Daniel DeMilán, Liliam Dooley, Mayelín Factoría Habana Guevara, Osvaldo González, Gabriel Lara (Gabo), Celia Ledón, Experimental center Octavio César Marín, Fabián Muñoz, Gean Moreno, Ernesto for present-day artistic creation Oroza, Nelson Ponce, Eduardo Ponjuán, Roberto Ramos, Luis O´Reilly 308 entre entre Ramírez, Yimit Ramírez, Jorge Rodríguez (R10), Edel Rodríguez Habana y Aguiar, Habana (Mola), Alejandro Rosales, Eduardo Sarmiento, Eric Silva, José Vieja Ángel Toirac, Raúl Valdés (Raupa) and Arantza Vilas.

Eduardo Sarmiento Nelson Ponce Mayelín Guevara & Eric Silva Roberto Ramos

.COM With a passion for Cuba PAGE 13 ART CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARRES VISUALES MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. Through Through an interactive installation, Night Scene Throughout Evocación lírica exhibits, for October 14 Illusion, the young artist the first time ever, 18 paintings Yusnier Mentado refers ti October by National Visual Arts Edificio de Arte childhood memories and Prizewinner 2012, Ever Cubano frustrations of the generation Fonseca, an indefatigable born in the 1980s, a reflection maker of fables and recreator of social disenchantment. of legends from the Cuban countryside. In Huellas, a project that VITRINA DE VALONIA includes installations, video as well as interaction and intervention in public spaces, Throughout Selección natural, by Ana Iris Texidor, who based on the style artist Vladimir González October of Japanese manga, depicts Portales revisits what seems to peculiarities of urban tribes be an obsessive theme in Cuban which may nullify contemporary art--migration. individualities. GALERÍA -BIBLIOTECA RUBÉN MARTÍNEZ VILLENA CENTRO HISPANO AMERICANO DE CULTURA Through Dibujos tontos, group show by This year's Ceramics Biennial Yornel Martínez, Adriana Throughout October 14 competition included over 150 Arronte, Irvin Vera, José October pieces (sets and installations Eduardo Yaque and Orestes with vessels, panels and tiles. Hernández, combines free and Prizewinners were Javier easy strokes with the sensitivity Martínez (Margen), Alejandro of the so-called “ordinary man.” Cordovés (Los colores de la vida), Guillermo R. Malberti, GALERÍA HABANA (Tras las huellas, pequeña historia de amor y desamor), Through Expo sin concepto is the latest Glaucia Basulto, Alder exhibition by Lázaro Saavedra, Calzadilla and Jorge Jacas, while October 11 prominent figure of the Cuban Ramiro Díaz (Cartuchos) was art boom of the 1980s, who given a Special Mention. Also assimilates the vernacular and on exhibition are pieces by an incisive and mordant humor ceramist Fernando Velázquez into his conceptual production. Torres, prizewinner at previous Ceramic Biennials. HOTEL HABANA LIBRE

GALERÍA COLLAGE HABANA Throughout Jesús Lara Sotelo pays tribute to music, in particular to Nueva October Throughout This gallery recently reopened Trova and guitar, in the with an exhibition of works by exhibition Yo también sueño October over 30 outstanding Cuban con serpientes with 15 large artists, such as Nelson paintings that are accompanied Domínguez, Manuel Mendive, by music scores that have been Ernesto García Peña, Mabel intervened by the artist. Poblet, Sandra Ceballos, Cirenaica Moreira, Ernesto Rancaño, Angel Ramírez and Lázaro Saavedra. Collage Habana will sell originals, reproductions and silk screen prints.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 14 Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas

Galleries & Studios in Havana

7th and 60th Studio Casa de los Artistas Casa-Estudio Centro de Arte Unique studio-gallery Works by Zaida del Río, de José Fuster La Casona started showing the Fabelo, Rancaño, Pedro Fascinating excursion One of Havana’s lead- work of four young Pablo Oliva to see Cuba’s Gaud- ing exhibition spaces artists Calle Oficios #6 (second iesque Calle Muralla #107, www.cu- floor), entre Obispo y Calle 226, esquina 3A, esquina San Ignacio, Old bartspace7y60.com Obrapía, Old Havana Jaimanitas Havana (07) 862-8986 (07) 271-3048 (07) 861-8544 Centro de Arte Centro Hispano Cristo Salvador Centro de Desarrollo Contemporáneo Americano de Gallery de las Arres Visuales Wifredo Lam Cultura Something completely Contemporary art Showcases visual arts Cultural center different in Cuba’s center on Plaza Vieja in developing countries Malecón No 17 e/ Paseo de burgeoning art world San Ignacio 352, esq. a San Ignacio #22, esq. Martí & Capdevila, Centro Calle 11 No 1104 entre 14 y Brasil (Teniente Rey), Empedrado, Old Havana Habana 16, Vedado Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (07) 860-6282 (07) 862 3533 Espacio Aglutinador Factoría Habana Fototeca de Cuba Fundación Ludwig Run by Sandra Cebal- Experimental center The largest, most de Cuba los, who also lives in the for present-day artistic valuable collection of Penthouse of a space creation Cuban photographs five-storey building, Calle 25 #602, entre 6 y O´Reilly 308 entre entre Mercaderes 307 e/ with breathtaking view 8, Vedado Habana y Aguiar, Habana Muralla y Teniente Rey, Calle 13 #509, 5to piso, (07) 830-2147 Vieja Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja entre D y E, Vedado (07) 862-2530 (07) 832-4270 Galería La Acacia Galería Habana Galería Victor Galería Servando High-end and One of Havana’s most Manuel Small gallery next door well-stocked commer- established galleries Mainstream decorative to Cine Chaplin cial gallery Línea #460, entre E y F, modern paintings Calle 23 y 10, Vedado Calle San José #114, e/ Vedado San Ignacio 56, esq. a (07) 831-1101 Industria y Consulado, Old (07) 832-7101 Callejón del Chorro, Havana Habana Vieja (07) 861-3533 (07) 861-2955/866-9268 Galería Villa Museo Nacional de Pabellon Cuba Taller Experimental Manuela Bellas Artes Modern architectural de Gráfica de Exhibiting some of the Cuba´s largest and building, HQ to Associ- La Habana best contemporary most impressive per- ation Hermanos Saiz Cuba’s only engraving Cuban artists manent art collection. Calle 23 y Calle N, workshop Calle H, e/ 17 y 19, Vedado Trocadero entre Zulueta Vedado Callejón del Chorro #62, y Monserrate, Habana (07) 832 2391 (07) 835-0822 Old Havana Vieja (07) 862-0979 .COM With a passion for Cuba PHOTOGRAPHY

DIÁLOGOS URBANOS FOTOTECA DE CUBA THROUGHOUT OCTOBER

This exhibition by photographers Pedro Abascal from Cuba and Santiago Escobar-Jaramillo from Colombia takes a look at different urban realities, although with a certain conceptual and formal closeness.

Pedro Abascal “I consider myself as a very curious person with a great capacity to be surprised; that's perhaps what makes me see the world through the viewfinder of my camera and allows me to explore everything that attracts my attention, and to a certain extent enter that which remains hidden, awaiting to be discovered.

Throughout my career as a photographer, I have developed a number of series that embody my overall interest in the human condition, the pictures place man in his own environment as he goes about his daily business. It could be considered as a photo-documentary, although it is not my aim to document anything but a self-portrait. The images form a poetics of the mundane as it is precisely in the commonplace of the day-to-day where man leaves a deep and enormous trace of his existence, seeking to achieve the right balance between reality and mystery.

In my concern, photography is that commonplace where a simple gesture becomes poetry.” http://pedroabascal.com

LOS PRIMEROS PADRES GALERÍA LATINOAMERICANA, CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS OPENS OCTOBER 4

This is an exhibition of photographs of 20th-century natives of Central and South America taken by renowned photographers Chambi, Graciela Iturbide, Paolo Gasparini, Nereo López, Nair Benedicto, Lucía Chiriboga and Juan Manuel Díaz Burgos, among others. The pictures are from the Haydee Santamaría Art of Our America collection of Casa de las Americas.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 16 PHOTOGRAPHY

CASA OSWALDO GUAYASAMÍN THROUGH OCTOBER 17

Thirty black and white photographs by Chilean Fernando Morandé give a poetic view of different cities from the eastern part of Cuba.

INVENTARIO ÍNTIMO PALACIO DE LOMBILLO THROUGHOUT OCTOBER

Inventario íntimo Architect and photographer María Eugenia López exhibits 18 small and medium-sized pictures created through digital printing.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 17 María Cienfuegos: using photography to overthrow the tedium by Ricardo Alberto Perez

For María Cienfuegos, photography is revelation. In her Maria believes that photography should be used to impose work, she explores small detained universes, microcosms a new order on things that have been tediously organized. frozen by the will of man, details that betray a new future Photographs should not obey; they should overthrow the for elements that used to depend on a natural cycle. For tedium and enter into the frank territory of art. She instance, in her Naturaleza Muerta [Still Life] (2012), she cannot renounce any special concept of beauty; she explores the artificial eyes of the birds transferred to an knows there are less visible fragments of memory. absurd hyper-realism. María Cienfuegos' work has no pretentious overtones. But María Cienfuegos also calls on family to have their She seems to have cultivated patience in which she trusts portraits taken. Families are situated in different scenes, and which helps her to achieve her images. Living and in different attitudes and at different kinds of events. dead organisms are placed side by side whether it is a dog These families are sometimes photographed in public show (Best in show -2008/ 2010) or a herbal record places and at other times in their homes. This is a series (naturaleza muerta II- [Still Life II] 2011). No matter what she has been working on since 2008 and she seems to have the image, each photo tells a story that can be interpreted found a vast array of expressions. with the utmost freedom and provoke multiple ideas.

Continue to read full article + slideshow

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 18 DANCE SPANISH DANCE

COINCIDENCIAS SALA AVELLANEDA. TEATRO NACIONAL OCTOBER 18-19, 8:30PM; OCT 20, 5PM

World premiere of Coincidencias produced by the Irene Rodríguez Spanish dance company.

Born in Havana, she began studying Spanish Dance in the Spanish Cultural Society “Centro Andaluz” (Andalusian Centre) of Havana. Within months, she began off the record, and as “an exceptional case” to take classes with the professional company Ballet Español de Cuba, since her talent was remarkable in spite of being a young girl. In 1993, she was admitted at the National Academy of Spanish Dances sponsored by this company. She graduated in 1999, after 5 years of study.

She played her first leading roles as a student in the formerly mentioned academy. In addition, she was part of the corps de ballet of the Ballet Español de Cuba in the main pieces presented by this company.

In July 1999, after graduating as a dancer, she immediately became a regular member in the very same Ballet Español de Cuba, where, after being evaluated several times, she became Prima ballerina in 2007, as well as Specialized Professor and Reggiseur of First Level and Choreographer.

As part of her professional education she has taken part in workshops, courses and master classes by the most relevant Spanish dancers and choreographers in Cuba, Spain, and Mexico. As prima ballerina, professor, reggiseur, and choreographer of the Ballet Español de Cuba, she successfully danced several times all the leading roles of the ballets performed by the company, as well as solo roles in all the company's performances.

In September 2001, she detached herself from the Ballet Español de Cuba, creating her own company of Spanish dance.

In Cuba, she has performed in the main theatres througouth the island, and she has been interviewed for many radio and TV shows, as well as for the written and digital press, both in Cuba and abroad.

In January 2012, she founded her own company: Compañía Irene Rodríguez cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 19 DANCE BALLET BALLET NACIONAL DE CUBA TEATRO MELLA OCTOBER 9, 8:30PM

Concert program: En las sombras de un vals (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Josef Strauss), Preciosa y el aire (choreography by Alicia Alonso, based on the poem of the same name by Federico García Lorca, music by Ángel Barrios Fernández), Diálogo a 4 (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Ignacio Cervantes), Umbral (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Johann Christian Bach), scenes from Act Two of Giselle (choreography by Alicia Alonso based on the original by Jean Coralli and Jules Perrot, music by Adolphe Adam), Pretextos (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Claude Marbehant), Desnuda luz del amor (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Ernest Chausson), Impromptu Lecuona (choreography by Alicia Alonso, music by Ernesto Lecuona).

DANCE THEATER MOMENTOS SALA LAS CAROLINAS OCTOBER 16, 7PM

Danza Teatro Retazos presents Momentos, choreographed by the company's director, Isabel Bustos.

Retazos (literally Bits & Pieces) In 1987, dancer and choreographer Isabel Bustos, who at first gave performances in the living room of her home, founded a company through which she could express her interests: the sublimation of emotions, through an avant- garde technique that would serve the purpose of expressing and integrating dance with other arts--visual arts, music, cinema and literature. Since 1996, the company holds the International Dance Festival in Urban Landscapes: Old Havana, City in Motion, taking advantage of suggestive old streets, plazas and buildings of Havana's Historical Centre to display the communicative and improvisational potentials of dancers and choreographers. Important works include Mujeres, Carmina Burana, Las lunas de Lorca and Peces en las manos. This really is a personal favorite and should form part of the itinerary of anyone who has an interest in modern dance.

www.danzateatroretazos.cu

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 20 DANCE

Rosario Cárdenas & Danza Combinatoria's Tributo a El monte by Victoria Alcala

It is a commonplace to say that El monte, by the Cuban given. The lights, the plain set design, the showing of anthropologist Lydia Cabrera, is the Bible of Afro-Cuban audiovisuals and the wardrobe—although at times religions. This is why some people were surprised when impractical—all contributed to the dancers' performance. Rosario Cárdenas—National Dance Prizewinner This was especially enhanced by the music entrusted to 2013—announced that she and her company Danza one of the most daring and intelligent contemporary Combinatoria were working on Tributo a El monte Cuban composers, Juan Piñera; to DJ Iván Lejardi, whose [Tribute to El Monte]. Having said this, however, I dare say work has matured by leaps and bounds; and to the rap no one questioned Cárdenas's capability to delve into the group Fuera de Norma, who performed on stage. dense plot of this iconic book of Cuban culture. A piece of non-linear structure, complex symbolism and Although the choreographer had forewarned that she did figurative denseness, sometimes reiterative and not aim to make a version of Cabrera's monumental book sometimes disconcerting (like the book that inspired it), and that her piece was simply based on it, I nevertheless Tributo a El monte needs to go on stage again, because, kept asking myself how Cárdenas would manage to stage like Lydia Cabrera's work and the Bible itself, it demands the key elements of a text that has baffled many readers more than one reading. who believed they would find a sort of “Santeria manual” and discovered that the book is of a disconcerting This show was performed at the Teatro Mella on September 6th & 7th, conceptual and poetic denseness. 2013. Continue to read full article + slideshow The key to the piece was poetry. While Cabrera used this to explore the view of the Africans who had been brought to Cuba and their descendants—a topic that had rarely been studied in her time—to reveal their voices, myths, practices and experiences, Cárdenas grasped the spirit of this “book of books” through her unique method of creation, in which she applies combinatorial analysis and José Lezama Lima's poetics. And following in the steps of the great poet, narrator and essayist, who said that only that which is difficult can be stimulating, Rosario Cárdenas presented her many followers a difficult, yet extraordinarily attractive piece.

With an atmosphere that took the audience by surprise from the very moment they set foot in the house thanks to its plant motifs, the choreography demanded of the dancers an almost visceral adoption of its many incarnations, beyond a technique that was of course a

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 21 Centro Cultural El Gran Palenque

Dance & concert venues

Major venues for all forms of dance & concerts Gran Teatro de Teatro Nacional Teatro Mella Teatro Karl Marx La Habana de Cuba 1,500-seat theatre The best-equipped Stages ballet opera, Recently renovated, used for dance, folk- and largest venue in zarzuela and Spanish where the best perfor- lore, circus and variety town dance mances are show Calle 1ra, esquina 10, Calle Prado entre San Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Línea No. 657, entre A y Miramar Rafael y San José, Old Revolución, Vedado B, Vedado (07) 203-0801 Havana (07) 833-8696 (07) 861 3077 / 5873 Modern Dance groups in Havana Compañía de la Compañía Rosario Danza Retazos Danza Narciso Cárdenas de Danza Contemporánea Led by the inspiration- Medina Combinatoria de Cuba al Ecuadorian spitfire Oriental and martial Innovative and creative Cuba’s legendary and Isabel Bustos dance arts dance and group gaining fabulous most celebrated Teatro Las Carolinas. movement in perfor- reviews modern dance group Calle Amargura No. 61, mance style Centro de Danza de la Teatro Nacional de Cuba. entre Mercaderes y San Cine Teatro Favorito. Habana. Prado No. 111, e/ Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Ignacio Belascoaín, esq. Peñalver, Genios y Refugio Revolución (07) 866-0512 (07) 878-2650 (07) 878-6765 (07) 879-6410 Rumba & folkloric venues Cabaret Callejón de Hammel Centro Cultural Cabaret Tropicana Cabaret Parisién Salvador González El Gran Palenque Legendary Vegas-style Beautiful dancers, Escalona is proud to Every Saturday after- extravaganza under intimate locale, at have Cuba’s most noon the troupe hosts the stars Cuba’s most historic popular open-air art the Sábado de la Calle 72 No. 4504, entre hotel gallery, which has Rumba, a mesmerizing 41 y 43, Marianao Hotel Nacional, Calle O, become a shrine to show of Afro-Cuban esquina 21, Vedado Afro-Cuban religions (07) 267 0110 / 1717-8 religious and secular (07) 873 4701 ext. 129 through the artist’s dance and drumming stunning pictorial fan- at El Gran Palenque in tasies. At the weekend Vedado. Unless you are Habana Café Cabaret Turquino this small space comes 100% “patón”, you can Where Vincent Vega Stunning view from alive with the beating expect the three hours would get his ten-dol- 26th floor. Retractable of drums as one of the of rumba, guaguancó lar shake in Havana roof, up market perfor- best places to experi- and yambú to get you mances ence Cuban rumba. moving. Hotel Meliá Cohíba, Avenida Paseo, esquina Habana Libre Hotel. Calle Callejón de Hammel, e/ Calle 4, entre 5ta y Calza- 3ra, Vedado L, e/ 23 y 25, Vedado Hospital y Aramburu, da (7ma). Vedado (07) 833-3636 (07) 838-4011 Centro Havana Tel. (07) 833-9075 (07) 878 1661 .COM With a passion for Cuba MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION & ELECTRONIC

Electronic dance party on Calle G – September 2013 (Casa las Americas in background)

The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has fragmented somewhat over recent months as new bars and clubs have opened and a number of promoters of one off parties have established themselves. While we have made a few suggestions and reviewed some of last month's best parties really you will simply have to keep your ear to the ground and try and get and get on the text list. We will post on the facebook page Cuba Absolutely Facebook page details when we have them.

For lovers of Yonki (really more reggaeton) you should check out the Sunday matinee at the Neptuno-Triton hotel starting at 2pm recently. It is also worth bearing in mind that sometimes the best party is simply in the street, at least when street is G street (see photo above from a recent party there on the Avenue of Presidents where some of the cool kids still hand out).

CAFÉ CANTANTE MI HABANA. TEATRO NACIONAL CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE

Tuesdays, 5pm Performances by To Mezclao Mon, 10:30pm Dj Wichy del Vedado, uno de los más famosos Djs de La Habana, con lo mejor de música Oct 7, 11pm Performances by Manana Club World.

CENTRO VASCO CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR Fridays, Performances by Karamba. Sundays, 11pm With Son as the foundation of midnight their music, the band Klimax, directed by Giraldo Piloto, DIABLO TUN TUN incorporates elements from jazz, pop, rap, punk, and Saturdays, 11pm Performances by Aceituna sin Caribbean rhythms. Hueso.

Mondays, 5pm Performances by El Micha

CENTRO CULTURAL BERTOLT BRECHT

Oct 2 & 9, 10pm Performances by Roberto Carcassés e Interactivo.

Oct 6 & 13, 10pm Performances by Déja-vu.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 23 Emmy Alfonso's 'Para Para Mestizar has received the support of the UNESCO Regional Office for Culture in Latin America and the Mestizar'; cultural Caribbean, the Ministry of Culture of Cuba, the Cuban Institute of Music, and the Spanish, Norwegian, British diversity through and French embassies in Cuba. Director: Joseph Ros music Voice and music: Eme Alfonso by Lucia Lamadrid Lyrics: Pedro Luis Ferrer Producers: Eme Alfonso and Ismael Sayyad

A year and a half after the project known as “Para Mestizar” began, it has finally completed the video. Young Cuban composer and singer Eme Alfonso and filmmaker Joseph Ros aim to show Cuba's cultural diversity through this music video that promotes equality, diversity, intercultural dialogue and social cohesion against discrimination and exclusion.

Eme Alfonso, winner of the Cubadisco 2009 Best Fusion Album Award, lends her voice and music to the project, while Joseph Ros, winner of the Lucas 2011 Awards for Best New Artist, Best Video of the Year, Best Fusion Video, and Best Artistic Direction with Eme Alfonso's song “Buscando la inspiración,” is the director of the video. Pedro Luis Ferrer, one of the leading members of La Nueva Trova, wrote the lyrics.

The music video, which mixes Cuban and Latin music with soul and jazz, will be presented to the national and international press on October 14, prior to the celebration of Cuban Culture Day on October 20. The four-minute video is the result of the magical experience of traveling throughout Cuba in search for answers regarding the mixture of races in Cuba. It will be aired on Cuban Television in January 2014.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 24 MUSIC JAZZ

Café Jazz Miramar (cine Miramar ), Calle 5ta Esquina A 94, Miramar Playa. Opens 2pm - Shows: 10:30pm - 2 Am - Cover: 50.00 Mn Or Cuc 2.00

This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba's best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright – take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisiation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us.

CAFÉ MIRAMAR LA ZORRA Y EL CUERVO

10pm Michel Herrera (sax and Oct 1, 11pm Jesús Fuentes (sax and Oct 4, composer) and Santo Tomás composer) Connection.

Yadasny Portillo (pianist and Oct 2, 11pm HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC composer) and the band Cauce. Oct 10, 2pm Peña La Esquina del Jazz, hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. Oct 3, 11pm Alexis Bosch (pianist) CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL Oct 4, 11pm Launching of the CD Colectivo, by percussionist Lukmil Pérez, Oct 13, 8pm Performance by Ruy López- accompanied by the group Nussa (percussionist) and La Santa Amalia's Friends. Academia

Oct 5 & 12, 11pm Roberto Carcassés (pianist), his trio and guests

MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES

Oct 3, 7pm Eduardo Barroetabeña Edificio de Arte (percussionist) and the band Cubano Oddara in concert.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 25 MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA GERARDO ALFONSO

MUSEO NACIONAL DE LA MÚSICA OCTOBER 23, 5PM

Singer-songwriter Gerardo Alfonso, whose songs range from social comment to ballads and songs in praise of national heroes, combines traditional Cuban genres such as trova and son with rock, pop, and Brazilian and Caribbean rhythms.

CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT

Tony Ávila, a favorite of the young generation thanks to his lyrics and sense of humor. Fridays, 10pm

An informal get-together with singer Omar Amehd. October 5, 4pm

Un Bolero para Ti, with Rafael Espín and guests. October 26, 4pm

CASA DEL ALBA CASA DE ÁFRICA

Oct 4, 8pm With his beautiful and powerful Oct 5, 4pm Performance by the voice, Eduardo Sosa and guests rock/folkloric rock band perform highlights of the best Síntesis Cuban trova of all time. Oct 12, 4pm Performance by the folkloric group Obiní Batá Oct 31, 6pm Performance by Vicente Feliú, one of the founders of the Cuban Nueva Trova movement, CASA DE LA CULTURA DE PLAZA and guests. Oct 12, 7 pm Peña with Marta Campos, CENTRO IBEROAMERICANO DE LA DÉCIMA renowned singer of contemporary songs with a Oct 5 , 3pm Performance by the duet Ad trova feel to them Libitum.

Oct 27, 4pm El Jardín de la Gorda with the performances of trovadores from every generation.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 26 MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORIC, SON & TROVA

HURÓN AZUL, UNEAC CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL

Oct 12, 10pm Mundito González is one of the Performance by popular David most popular Cuban bolero Fridays, 5 pm Álvarez and his band Juego de singers. Manos.

CASA DE LA AMITAD Saturdays, Performance by Waldo 5 pm Mendoza, one of Cuba's most Oct 13, 3pm Get-together with the vocal popular singers today. quartet Génesis

CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE Oct 20, 3pm Get-together with Maureen Iznaga, whose select repertoire Tuesdays, 7pm Performances by Fernando includes favorite Cuban and Bécquer, singer-songwriter of international love songs. piquant humor and contagious rhythm. CASA BALEAR Wednesdays, Performances by the young singer Milada Milhet. Oct 18, 5 pm Tardes de Boleros, hosted by 9pm singer Maureen García.

Saturdays, Performance by Yeni CASA MEMORIAL SALVADOR ALLENDE 10:30pm Sotolongo, a young singer who boasts an exceptional voice and Oct 25, 6 pm Peña La Juntamenta, with varied repertoire. trovador Ángel Quintero and guests Sundays, 6pm Performances by pop idol Adrián Berazaín, who combines pop and rock with Cuban song. CENTRO CULTURAL PABLO DE LA TORRIENTEBRAU

Oct 26 , 5 pm A Guitarra Limpia is a meeting JARDINES DEL 1830 with trovadors accompanied only by their guitars. Tue & Thu, Performance by one of the 8:30pm; most popular bands in Cuba, Moncada will play an extensive Tue & Thu, CAFÉ CONCERT ADAGIO repertoire of Cuban and Latin 8:30pm American music. Thursdays, Performances by Maylú, the all- 10 pm round singer of the moment, whose repertoire goes from PIANO BAR TUN TUN arias of famous operas to Peña with trovador Ray Cuban, Latin American and Thursdays, Fernández. international pop hits. 5pm

CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA

Saturdays, La Utopía combines live Fridays, Performance by the folkloric 5 pm performances by troubadours, 8:30pm group Obiní Batá. impromptu performances by the audience, and videos of important domestic and Sundays, Performance by the folkloric international musicians of the 4 pm group Los Ibellis. past 50 years.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 27 MUSIC RAP, HIP-HOP LA SESIÓN AT DELIRIO HABANERO

TEATRO NACIONAL FRIDAYS, 4PM

Cuba's newest spot for rap lovers, La Sesión includes rap as well as the best DJs in Havana, singers and musicians from other genres as well as visual artists and actors from the stage. Shows are hosted by the Cuban actress Edenis Sanchez and rapper Bárbaro “El urbano” Vargas. La Sesión is sure to become the rap/hip-hop's spot in the Cuban capital.

CANCHA DE COJÍMAR MAQUETA DE LA HABANA

Oct 12 2:00pm Anónimo Consejo and Brebaje Oct 26 5:00pm Hermanazos. Man.

ROCK

CAFÉ CANTANTE, TEATRO NACIONAL DIABLO TUN TUN

Sundays Los Kents, a “dinosaur” of Fridays 5:00pm Performance by the rock band Cuban rock, play their hits from Gens. 4:00pm (Casa de la the 60s and 70s. Música de Miramar) SALSA / TIMBA

CASA DE LA MÚSICA DE MIRAMAR DIABLO TUN TUN

Oct 1, 8, 15, 22 & Pedrito Calvo y La Justicia Oct 3 11:00pm José Luis Cortés y NG La Banda 29, 11:00pm CASA DE LA MÚSICA HABANA Oct 2, 9, 16, 23 & Juan Guillermo Oct 2 5:00pm Combinación de La Habana 30, 5:00pm

José Luis Cortés y NG La Banda Oct 2, 9, 16, 23 y Adalberto Álvarez y su Son Oct 2 & 9 11:00pm 30, 5:00pm

Oct 3, 10, 17, 24 Pupy y los que Son Son Oct 7, 21, 28, Sur Caribe 11:00pm & 31, 5:00pm

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 28 MUSIC CLASSICAL

BASÍLICA MENOR DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

6:00pm Oct 19 Pianist Cecilio Tieles and violinist Evelio Tieles will play Concert by the chamber Oct 5 pieces from the classic Cuban orchestra Música Eterna, 19th century composer Nicolás conducted by Guido López- Ruiz Espadero. Gavilán, with guest pianist Aldo López-Gavilán. Oct 26 A group of young musicians will play works by composers from the nations that make up the Camerata Romeu, conducted by Oct 12 Visegrád Group: Hungary, its director Zenaida Romeu, will Poland, Czech Republic and play a selection from the opera Slovakia. ópera Carmen, by Bizet.

ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI

4:00pm Oct 19 Recital by pianist Ulises Hernández. Oct 1 Cuban and Latin American compositions played on the piano by Nelson Camacho. Sep 28 Pianist Vilma Garriga, soprano Ivette Betancourt and cellist Amparo del Riego will offer a program based on preludes and Oct 5 Pianists Marita Rodríguez and Ulises Hernández, and violist ballads by Russian composers Anolan González will pay Mikhail Glinka, Pyotr I. tribute to Cuban composers Tchaikovski, Reinhold Gliere, Harold Gramatges and Alfredo Sergei Rachmaminoff and Diez-Nieto. Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 29 MUSIC CLASSICAL

IGLESIA DE PAULA

5:00pm Oct 25 The Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble, conducted by Teresa Organist Moisés Santiesteban Oct 4 Paz, will play worls by Austrian has announced a program of composers Wolfgang Amadeus 19th-century pieces for organ. Mozart, Joseph Haydn and Heinrich Biber. Oct 18 Performance by the quintet Ventus Habana, conducted by Alina Blanco, and guests

SALA IGNACIO CERVANTES

5:00pm Oct 20 Recital by soprano Ivette Betancourt and pianist Maite Concierto poético en La Oct 13 Aboy. Habana: orilla de las mujeres fértiles is a meeting with The duo Promúsica, with authors Nancy Morejón y Oct 27 Alfredo Muñoz (violin) and Marifé Santiago, who will read María Victoria del Collado their poems accompanied on (piano), has announced a recital the piano by Pura Ortiz. with compositions by Beethoven. Oct 15 Soprano Johana Simón, accompanied on the piano Beatriz Batista, will sing works by Cuban women operatic composers.

CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL

5:00pm Oct 20 Tarde de Concierto, conducted by the soprano Lucy Provedo. Oct 6 Performance by Haskell Armenteros and his Ensemble Nueva Camerata Oct 27 De Nuestra América, conducted by pianist Alicia Perea. Oct 12 En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín.

BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL JOSÉ MARTÍ

5:00pm Oct 19 Concert by the Nueva Camerata quintet. Oct 5 Recital by pianist Huberal Herrera, who specializes in the work of Cuban composer Oct 26 Recital by guitarist Víctor Ernesto Lecuona. Pellegrini.

Oct 12 Performance by the Entrevoces chorus.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 30 MUSIC CLASSICAL

CENTRO HISPANO-AMERICANO DE CULTURA 5:00pm

Oct 19 Concert by the chamber orchestra Solistas de La Habana, conducted by María Elena Mendiola.

SALA GONZALO ROIG. PALACIO DEL TEATRO LÍRICO NACIONAL 5:00pm Cuerda Dominical, with Oct 13, 5:00pm Recital by the guitar quartet Oct 27, Ébanos de La Habana. guitarist Luis Manuel Molina.

Oct 20, 7:00pm Concert by Ensamble Nueva Camerata.

SALA COVARRUBIAS, TEATRO NACIONAL Concerts with the Orquesta Oct 16, 8:00pm Recital by Schola Cantorum Sundays, Coralina, with guest guitarist 11:00pm Sinfónica Nacional. Víctor Pellegrini.

MUSEO NACIONAL DE LA MÚSICA 5:00pm

Oct 2 Recital by the duo Promúsica, made up of violinist Alfredo Muñoz and pianist María Victoria del Collado.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 31 Schlick, Michelangelo Rossi, Louis Couperin, Dietrich 5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Buxtehude, Johann Sebastian Bach, Antonio Vivaldi and Festival from the Robertsbridge Codex. The Centro Hispano- Through October 13 Americano de Cultura will show a series of videos on opera starting on September 25, Mondays, Wednesdays and Organized by the Leo Brouwer Office, the 5th Leo Fridays at 3:00 pm Brouwer Chamber Music Festival began this past September 24 and will continue until October 13, 2013. For The Cuban composer Leo Brouwer, who has been the first time, it left Havana and traveled to the city of acknowledged as one of the living geniuses of classical Santiago de Cuba where the splendid Sala Dolores theater music in the international arena, has been, since its was chosen to receive the prestigious Cuban and inception, the heart and soul of the festival through his international musicians from September 24-26 supervision and total devotion. With regard to the festival, Brouwer has said: “Our policy is not figure-oriented, but Tribute was be paid to Cuban composer Harold rather repertoire-oriented…We have the privilege of Gramatges and a lecture was given on the rich musical having excellent Cuban musicians and first-rate young heritage of Santiago de Cuba. The lecture was illustrated artists performing the best versions that exist in this with performances by the Orfeón de Santiago and the regard, perhaps not the only ones, but certainly the best.” Orquesta Sinfónica de Oriente. Although the focus of the Leo Brouwer (Havana, 1939) has created more than 300 festival is naturally chamber music, the event also musical pieces and is currently the composer of classical includes debates, talks, film showings, exhibitions and music whose scores are most performed in the world, book, CD and launchings. according to the SGAE (General Association of Authors and Publishers). From September 28th to October 13th , the festival will continue in Havana. Its organizers have announced the The 5th Leo Brouwer Festival has become one of the best participation of musicians from ten different countries music events held this year thanks to the excellence of plus over forty world and national premieres. Two participating singers and musicians, and a program that exhibitions, Memorias de un Festival (Memories of a has combined skillfully--and originally and daringly I Festival), with photographs by Gabriel Guerra Bianchini, might add--the traditional repertoire with the Iván Soca and Silvio Rodríguez, and En Viaje con Calvino contemporary. It is not easy to recommend any particular (Traveling with Calvino) by Marco Marini, opened at Sala concert for October, they're all so good and I hope not to de la Diversidad on September 30. The exhibitions are a miss any. But if I were pressed to do so, my top three not- tribute to the renowned Italian author Italo Calvino, born to-miss would be Paco de Lucía en vivo (Paco de Lucía in Santiago de las Vegas, Cuba, on the 90th anniversary of Live), who is the soul of flamenco; De Vivaldi al his birth. Later that same day, Iglesia de Paula was chosen minimalismo (From Vivaldi to Minimalism), what a for the concert Órgano Plus with organist Vincent combination!; and for those who prefer something more Bernhardt and double bassist Victor Soto, along with “classic”, De sonatas, conciertos y fantasías (Sonatas, musicians from Il Delirio Fantástico and the Ars Longa concertos and fantasias). Early Music Ensemble, who played pieces by Arnolt Continue to read full article + slideshow

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 32 Program 5th Leo Brouwer Chamber Music Festival

Paco de Lucía en vivo, concert by the flamenco guitarist Paco de Lucía and his group / TEATRO KARL MARX Wednesday, October 2, 9pm A special highlight in this year's festival will be the participation of guitarist and composer Paco de Lucía. It has been 26 years since his last performance in Cuba and Brouwer explained that although De Lucía had always longed to return to Cuba, his tight schedule had always kept him from doing so. At 65, Paco de Lucía is considered one of the best guitarists worldwide and has received many awards in his career, including the 2004 Prince of Asturias Award. The much acclaimed Spanish musician will receive the 2013 Cubadisco, the most important music award in Cuba.

De Vivaldi al Minimalismo / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL October 3, 8:30 pm

Musicians: Il Delirio Fantastico and Conjunto de Música Antigua Ars Longa.

Program: Electric Counterpoint for guitar ensemble, by Steve Reich, directed and adapted for old instruments by Leo Brouwer, Enrike Solinis on guitar; Concerto da camera for recorder, strings and basso continuo in D major, RV 92, by Antonio Vivaldi; Yellow Page from Telephone Book by Michael Torke; Concerto da camera for recorder, strings and basso continuo in A minor, RV 108, by Vivaldi; Paisaje cubano con lluvia, by Leo Brouwer; Concierto for mandoline, nows and organ in G major, RV 532, by Vivaldi; John´s Book of Alleged Dances for string quartet cuarteto de cuerdas y loops, de John Adams; Concerto da camera para recorder, oboe, dos violines y bajo continuo en do mayor, RV 87, de Vivaldi; In C para ensamble libre, de Terry Riley.

Wagner vs. Verdi / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL October 4, 8:30 pm

Musicians: Cuarteto de cuerdas Presto; wind quintet Ventus Habana; wind quintet qui Santa Cecilia; Fadev Sajundo, trumpet; Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana.

Program: Cuarteto de cuerdas in E minor, vy Giuseppe Verdi; Retrato de Wagner con Mathilde for flute, viola, guitar and string orchestra, by Leo Brouwer; Verdiana for orchestra, by Leo Brouwer; Wesendonck Lieder for voice and piano, by Richard Wagner, texts by Mathilde Wesendonck

De Sao Paulo a La Habana / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL Oct 6 , 5:00 pm

Musicians: Adelia Issa, soprano; Edelton Gloeden, guitar; Niurka González, flute; guitar quartet Quaternaglia; Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana; Ballet Rakatán.

Program: Uana lus & Kalimbas, by Egberto Gismonti; Mãe d'Água for voice and guitar, by César Guerra-Peixe; Oriki de Erinlé for voice and guitar, by Paulo Costa Lima, texts in yoruba by Ordep Serra; Canção do amor for voice and guitar, by Heitor Villa-Lobos, text by Dora Vasconcellos; Fragmentos de Tres canções de Inês for voice and guitar, by Ronaldo Miranda, text by Inês Cavalcanti; Ilharga, Osso for voice and guitar, by Antonio Ribeiro, text by Hilda Hilst; Ponteio for guitar, by Mozart Camargo Guarnieri; Duas canções for voice and flute, by Mozart Camargo Guarnieri, text by Manuel Bandeira: Mitología de las aguas, sonata No. 1 for guitar and flute, by Leo Brouwer; Variaciones sobre el tema de Xango for guitar quartet, by Almeida Prado; Sweet mineira pa guitar quartet, by Sergio Molina; Concierto Itálico for guitar quartet and string orchestra, by Leo Brouwer.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 33 De Caturla a Valera / CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL October 6, 5pm

Musicians: chamber chorus Vocal Leo.

Program: Canto de los cafetales, by Alejandro García Caturla, texts by Alejo Carpentier; Nadie lo tiene, by Harold Gramatges, texts by Nicolás Guillén; “Pablito clavó un clavito”, “Nana Caliche” and “Tengo un gato” by Rondas, refranes y trabalenguas, texts and music by Leo Brouwer; Tres canciones, by Beatriz Corona, texts by Abel Acosta; A veces, de Electo Silva, texts by Nicolás Guillén; Yo no quiero más luz que tu cuerpo, by Guido López-Gavilán, texts by Miguel Hernández; Que rico é, music and texts by Guido López-Gavilán; Yambambó, by Emilio Grenet, texts by Nicolás Guillén, choral version by Octavio Marín; Quisiera (Guaguancó quasi una passacaglia), music and texts by Roberto Valera; La niña está calladita, by Roberto Valera, texts by Dulce María Loynaz; ¿Conoces un fuego que no dé calor, music and texts by Roberto Valera; Un baile muy rápido, music and texts by Roberto Valera; Iré a Santiago, by Roberto Valera, texts by Federico García Lorca.

Brouwer flamenco / TEATRO DEL EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO, MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES October 6, 7pm

Musicians: Josué Tacoronte, guitar; Arnulfo Guerra, bass; Ruy Adrián López-Nussa, percussion; Niurka González, flute; Silfredo Pérez, guitar and cuatro; Eduardo Bethencourt, cante and cajón; Thais Doimeadiós, dancer; Irene Rodríguez, bailaora.

Program: with works by Leo Brouwer: Elogio by la danza, for guitar, Seguirilla; “IX Homenaje a Szymanovski”, Nuevos estudios sencillos for guitar, Tientos; Un día de noviembre for guitar, Sonata para flauta, Fandangos; Música incidental campesina for two guitars, Guajira; Drume, negrita for guitar; Metáfora del amor for guitar and prerecordings; El Decamerón Negro for guitar: “I. El Arpa del Guerrero”, Tanguillos; “II. Huida de los amantes por el valle de los ecos”, Bulerías; “III. Balada de la doncella enamorada”, Rumba; Danza característica for guitar, Poema for voice and guitar, Rumba.

De Brouwer para Britten / BASÍLICA MENOR DEL CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS October 7, 6pm

Musicians: Entrevoces Chorus; Niurka González, flute; Alberto Rosas, flute; Cello Capriccioso duet; wind quintet Santa Cecilia; Manuel Vivar, bell; Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana.

Program: Cinco canciones florales for mixed chorus, Op. 47, de Benjamin Britten: “V. Ballad of Green Broom”, “IV. The evening primrose” (text by John Clare); Sonatina canónica for flute, Op. 31, No. 3, by Paul Hindemith; Pieza fantástica en si mayor, Op. 8, No. 2, for cello and piano, by Paul Hindemith; Tarantella in G major, Op. 33, for cello and piano, by David Popper; Hungarian Rhapsody Op. 68, for cello and piano; Breves para cello, de Calixto Álvarez: “I. Sonsoneo”, “II. Romance”, “III. Bachata”; Sonata for cello and piano in C major mayor, Op. 65, by Benjamin Britten; Pregones de Tata Cuñengue for wind quintet, by Leo Brouwer: “I. Pregón del cuentero”, “II. Pregón de los misterios”, “III. A la salida del sol”, “IV. Pregón del repentista”; Cantus in memoriam Benjamin Britten for string orchestra and bell, by Arvo Pärt.

De sonatas, conciertos y fantasías / BASÍLICA MENOR DEL CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS October 8, 6pm

Musicians: Enrike Solinis, baroque guitar, electric guitar and lute; Il Delirio Fantastico; Victor Soto, double bass; Manuel Vivar, percussion.

Program: Four sonatas by Domenico Scarlatti: Sonata en sol mayor, K. 14 (Presto); Sonata en re menor, K. 32 (Aria); Sonata en si menor, K. 27 (Allegro); Sonata en re menor, K. 176 (Cantabile andante), transcription by Enrike Solinís; El arpa y la sombra, by Leo Brouwer; two Fantasias by Alonso Mudarra: Romanesca II o Guárdame las vacas, and Fantasia X (que contrahaze la harpa a la manera de Ludovico); Nuevos estudios sencillos, by Leo Brouwer; Improvisaciones sobre Marionas, Canarios and Jácaras, by Gaspar Sanz; Cumbés, by Santiago de Murzia; Concerto da camera for recorder, oboe, violin, bassoon and basso continuo in D major, RV 94, by Antonio Vivaldi; Concerto da camera for recorder, oboe, violin, bassoon and basso continuo in C major, RV 88, by Vivaldi; Concierto for piccolo, strings and basso continuo in C major, RV 443, by Vivaldi.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 34 Lecuona Plus / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL October 9, 8:30pm

Musicians: Josué Tacoronte, guitar; Trío Lecuona; Ramón Valle, piano; Yasek Manzano, trumpet; Germán Velazco, sax; Ruy López Nussa, drums; Gastón Joya, double bass.

Program: Malagueña, La conga de medianoche, Ahí viene el chino, Siboney, En tres por cuatro, Córdoba, Andalucía, Danza de los ñánigos, La comparsa, Y la negra bailaba, Rumba mejoral, Gitanerías, Danza negra.

Amor de ciudad grande / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL Oct 11 , 8:30 pm

Musicians: Dúo Ondina; Edelton Gloeden, guitar; Silfredo Pérez, guitar; Reynier Guerrero, violin; Alejandro Martínez, cello; Adelia Issa, vocal; Pablo Milanés, voice; Miguel Núñez, piano; Sergio Félix Raveiro, bass; Germán Velazco, sax; Edgar Martínez, percussion; Presto string quartet.

Program: Es el amor quien ve, for voice, flute, strings, piano, guitar and vibraphone, by Leo Brouwer; Elegías martianas for flute and piano, by Leo Brouwer: “I. …Y música sentida tiene mi voz”, “II. En el arpa del ángel silencioso”; Mi verso es como un puñal, Vierte corazón tu pena, Amor de ciudad grande, Poética, El enemigo brutal, Yo soy un hombre sincero, Es rubia… el cabello suelto, El príncipe enano, Si ves un monte de espumas, by Pablo Milanés, from texts by José Martí.

Esencia flamenca / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL October 11, 8:30pm

Musicians: Carlos Piñana, guitar; Miguel Ángel Orengo, cajón; Ernesto Oliva, piano; Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana; Habana Compás Dance; Josué Tacoronte, guitar; Arnulfo Guerra, bass; Ruy Adrián López-Nussa, cajón; Eduardo Bethencourt, song and percussion.

Program: El cuidado de una esencia, suite for guitar, cajón flamenco, piano and strings, by Carlos Piñana; Naseer (Tangos) by Carlos Piñana; Rosa de invierno (Fandangos), Jerez (Bulerías), Bohemia (Taranta/Alegrías), El día que tú me digas (Zapateado/Bulerías), Jaleos, by Carlos Piñana; Fusionando, Bulerías, by Eduardo Córdova; Danza característica for guitar, by Leo Brouwer.

Benny Moré 50 años después / SALA AVELLANEDA, TEATRO NACIONAL October 12, 8:30pm

Musicians: Vocal Sampling, Ensemble Gurrufío and X Alfonso.

Program: Canto al Benny, by René Baños; Dolor y perdón, by Benny Moré; Un son pa´cantar, by René Baños; Qué bueno baila usted, by Benny Moré; Apure en un viaje (joropo), by Genaro Prieto; Ay, compae (merengue), by Henry Martínez; Atardecer (vals serenade), by Lencho Amaro; Destello de amor, by Armando Molero; Por estos rincones, by Cristóbal Soto; Morenita (merengue), by Pedro Oropeza; Ahora (vals song), by Otilio Galíndez; Sr. Jou, by Pablo Camacaro; El cruzao (joropo), by Ricardo Sandoval; La Guachafita (joropo), by Alberto Muñoz; El vuelo de la mosca (Brazilian valsinha), de Jacob do Bandolim.

Meñique a flor de labios / TEATRO KARL MARX October 13, 5pm

Musicians: Annabel Gutiérrez, harp; Ernesto Oliva, piano; Eylín Marquetti and Manuel Vivar, percussion; Diminuto chorus; Solfa chorus.

Program: Varias manera de hacer música con papel and Cantigas del tiempo nuevo, by Leo Brouwer.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 35 Interview with Sue Herrod

This week we talked to British composer, Sue Herrod, about the up-and-coming premier of her prize-winning concert DVD - UP INTO THE SILENCE. This screening, which will include a Making of …and the concert itself, will last around 75 minutes. It is to be part of the prestigious Leo Brouwer Festival of Music (Sept 24th - Oct 13th, 2013) and will be shown on Saturday, September 28th, at 5pm, in Havana´s Cine Chaplin, Vedado.

Sue has lived in Havana for almost 16 years and also writes a cultural blog and articles for various publications (including CubaAbsolutely) about life and people on the island.

CA: Sue, can you tell us a bit about your project? of six of those songs. We won a music prize here, with that Sue: Yes, and thank you for inviting me here to talk about demo. Since then - with the release of her own solo my work. albums - she´s shot to fame; has just been signed by Sony. She´s a very fine, sensitive, singer and artist, and lovely to UP INTO THE SILENCE (UITS) was a performance that we work with. gave here in Havana in June, 2012; a concert of my music (songs) set to the poetry of the great American post- CA: So what made you return to this project - after a modernist, E. E. Cummings, and sung by Cuban artist, break of 8 years? Diana Fuentes. It was the second concert produced by our Sue: Well…yes…fast forward to the very beginning of 2011. team - QUIET NIGHTS CUBA. (QNC is myself – as One night Diana and I were chatting on Facebook - she composer & Artistic Director, Darsi Fernandez and Yoana was living in Puerto Rico by then - and just very Grass (Producers), and Idania del Rio (Designer/Visuals). spontaneously we both decided we´d like to go back to this We also work with Denis Peralta (Musical Director), project; to do a proper concert of the original Cummings Alejandro Lugo (Musical Productor), Alfonso Peña & songs. So I set to work. As I said, all of the originals were Scorpio (Design/Recording of the live 5.1 surround sound) just for solo piano and voice but since I´d been working a and Luis Najmias Jnr. (Film & DVD Director). lot with more electronic and home-made sounds - a work I love to do with sound-man/ experimenter, Ale (Lugo) - I CA: Why poetry, and why E. E. Cummings? reworked many of them to include that, newer, side of my Sue: Well, it began in 2002. I took one of Cummings´s work. I also changed the format – using piano, but also a poems – just as a musical exercise – then completely fell in live string quartet alongside small, and quite fragmented, love with it, set it to music (as a song – just piano and voice pre-recorded sounds, for example - to be played live on ), and then - without any plan at all - spent the next 4 years drum pad and keyboard. The combination really worked, I writing just to his work! Complete instinct, really. I finally think – it was certainly something very different for here. stopped in 2004 when I had a cycle of 13 songs that I felt really happy with. And then - with Diana (Fuentes), who was, then, just beginning her career - we recorded a demo cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 36 CA: And the process? CA: We know that it's quite unusual for a foreigner to Sue: Well, I start out with the music/concert/project idea have their work supported here, in this way. How did this then start brainstorming it with Idania (del Rio). She´s such happen? a star, thinks right outside of the box, quirky, so very Sue: Yes, it is - and I´m not just incredibly grateful for this - talented. Then, we´ll meet with both Darsi and Yoana. but also, I have to say, made very proud to be a permanent Then…well, it's just developing the work. Me and Cuban resident. Cuba is very rich in culture - as you well Alejandro, me and Denis, team meetings…and on and on. know - but it´s a poor country and so the commitment to supporting us artists - and UITS, in this instance - is even UP INTO THE SILENCE took a couple of years of really more remarkable, I feel. And last year I was also lucky solid team work and involved - wonderfully, for us - some enough to be accepted as a member of UNEAC (the Music of the very best musicians, filmmakers, photographers, & Artists Union) which is a great honour. It's a very designers, actors, sound engineers, translators and prestigious organization here and it means I now belong producers on the island. An amazing team. We were really to an official artistic institution – a great support for me proud, then, not only to have created what we consider to and for my work. have been a beautiful music/visual project (with rotating overhead projectors, mapping effects etc.) but to have also So, what happened is that we presented UITS to two brought the work of Cummings to Cuba; to an audience institutions: Producciones Colibrí and Producciones Ojalá who previously had no, or little, knowledge of his - with great help from Ernán López-Nussa - and, luckily, incredible poetry. We have to thank Cuban poet, Omar both companies loved it. Of course, then having Diana Perez, here, for his really meticulous and fine translations (Fuentes) and Aldo (López Gavilán) on board – both very - not easy with Cummings. And then someone who most well-known and respected young musicians – was key. Cubans consider to be their finest actor (as well as their Plus, having Darsi and Yoana who are simply, in my view, finest comedian, by the way!), Osvaldo Doimeadios: a the best producers around. So I am eternally grateful for brilliant artist who recorded some of the poetry in Spanish all this, and to all of these people. For readers who aren´t - that we then used in the live concert. familiar with the Cuban music scene Colibrí and Ojalá are two very fine, small, Cuban record companies/labels: The team - QNC - have always felt, too, that we were about Colibrí is part of the Cuban Music Institute and Ojalá is something bigger than just a concert or a project; owned by one of Cuba´s most famous musicians, Silvio something that is, sincerely, very important to us. And Rodríguez. that's to be part of a movement of intercultural exchanges. Interestingly, both of my projects so far have linked the We had other, great, support: from Aurelia Productions, USA and Cuba. There seems to be no cultural bridge like from tourist agencies CTN and Cubania, and from Hector music and - this time – it was accompanied by some of the Higuera - owner of the fine restaurant, Le Chansonnier. I most important and beautiful poetry ever written. also want to thank you, CubaAbsolutely, for helping us promote the concert, and another on-line Cuban music company, Suenacubano, too.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 37 two performances and I think there was a maximum of 300 people in each one. So many people, who really wanted to see it, missed it. But now - at least - we have the chance to show it to you as an HD DVD in the best cinema in town - Cine Chaplin - and with the best possible sound: we´ll set up the 5.1 surround sound there to give you the closest experience possible to the live concert.

And the whole context for this, of course, is the Leo Brouwer Festival. It's not just a wonderful opportunity for us – to show the work in Chaplin – but, for me personally, a complete honour to be included in this particular festival. It´s one of the most prestigious and respected events in the Cuban cultural calendar and, well, I´m extremely grateful, very happy to be there.

CA: Where was the concert performed? CA: A last word…..? Sue: We gave two concerts of the work in Cuba´s biggest Sue: That I think we´ve achieved something new and quite theatre - Karl Marx - but we closed down the main part beautiful with UP INTO THE SILENCE and that we, as a and set everything thing in the round – public and artists – team, are all really proud of the outcome. Quiet Nights, just on the theatre stage. (That original idea came from and UITS, is not just me – it's a core team, and a really Ernán López-Nusa - one of Cuba´s finest jazz pianists - fantastic one. We´re a permanent fixture now and will and was a real stroke of genius). The team there were probably produce another project together in 2014. And stellar. And - thanks to Peña (plus Delio and Carlos, of The UITS DVD that you´ll see on September 28th actually Scorpio Sound Team) - we had this amazing, specially won two CubaDisco prizes this year, too! One was for the designed, live, 5.1 surround sound, too. The stage-floor best DVD of a live concert; the other for the best setting of visuals and mapping was inspired work from Idania and poetry to music. So I hope you´ll all come to celebrate this Mauricio Abad (another very talented, out-of-the-box with us – to support us – to enjoy it – and to chat thinker, there). And all this - the setting, the visuals and afterwards and tell us what you think! the sound - were a first for the theatre, and for the Cuban public – so all of that was pretty exciting. Doing something And, thanks - so much - to everyone. new is definitely very much part of any project, for us.

CA: Were you happy with the outcome? The (world) premier of the concert DVD – UP INTO THE Sue: Oh yes, very! I mean, there are always little things. In SILENCE – will be screened with 5.1 surround sound on: the second concert something happened with the Saturday, September 28th, at 5pm - Cine Chaplin, Calle 23 lighting. Then I think the stage-floor visuals – which look y 10, Vedado. so amazing on the DVD - were not that easy, live; the Sue will be there to introduce the screening – along with audience would need to be seated higher up, looking more some of the musicians and production team involved in downwards, and we couldn't find a way. But overall…it was the project – and there will be a special appearance from very delicate and beautiful, I think, and the audience was actor Osvaldo Doimeadios who will read selected poetry very enthusiastic. Diana sang like an angel and we also had by E. E. Cummings. two very fine pianists: the lovely Aldo López-Gavilán, and a younger, emerging talent, Darío Martín. Denis (Peralta) Continue to read full article + slideshow was outstanding as a MD, and also conducted a wonderful string quartet (I can´t wait to work with them again). And, as in our first concert, we had friends Marietta González (keyboard) and Mauricio Gutiérrez (percussion) with us. Great people. It was a small, intimate, minimalist event – quiet, spacious, rich colours, floating melodies, breath, fragmented sounds ….and silence. Magical, really.

CA: So then, on to the DVD and the premier on September 28th. Sue: Well, we decided early on that we wanted to film the concert and create a high-quality DVD. And we were lucky enough to work with Luis Najmias Jnr. (a multi- prizewinning director) who both filmed (nine cameras!) and produced this DVD – which, as you´ve said, includes a short Making of….plus the concert itself. Our only sadness with the live concert was that we were only able to offer cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 38 THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS LAS LÁGRIMAS NO HACEN RUIDO AL CAER

TUESDAY, WEDNESAY AND THURSDAY, 7PM THROUGH OCTOBER CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT

Monse Duany is the legendary Cuban singer Guadalupe Yolí-La Lupe-in the monologue Las lágrimas no hacen ruido al caer by the late playwright Alberto Pedro. Monse Duany is versatility itself: She creates situations of humor and anguish, joy and sadness, understanding and impotence. She sings, dances, recites, dreams, shouts, cries, falls in love, suffers… She is the kind of actress that exudes energy and passion.

Back this month for an extended run after great reviews from the shows last month. If you haven't yet seen it you have no excuse and you won't regret it…

DE VUELTA AL MUSICAL [BACK TO MUSICALS]

ANFITEATRO DEL CENTRO HISTÓRICO THROUGHOUT OCTOBER, SAT & SUN, 9PM

Alfonso Menéndez's revitalized troupe returns to the stage of Havana's Amphitheatre in the Historic Center for a medley of famous songs from musical theater and films. Beautiful and suggestive music, excellent performances by young actors and singers, and splendid costumes enhance this production that includes selections from well-known musicals, such as “Masquerade” (The Phantom of the Opera); "Over the Rainbow” (The Wizard of Oz); “Septimino” (The Merry Widow); “When You're Good to Mama”, “We Both Reached for the Gun”, “All that Jazz” (Chicago); “Two Ladies” and “Maybe this Time” (Cabaret); “Yo me acaricio” (Cantando desnudos), “Singing in the Rain” (Singing in the Rain), “I Dreamed a Dream”, “Do You Hear the People Sing?” (Les Miserables), “Don't Cry for Me, Argentina” (Evita), “New York, New York” (New York, New York), “I Could Have Danced All Night” (My Fair Lady), “Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend” (Moulin Rouge!), “One” (A Chorus Line) and “Mamma mia” (Mamma mia!).

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 39 THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS SALA TITO JUNCO. CENTRO BERTOLT BRECHT SALA CHE GUEVARA. CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS

Tue, Wed & Thu La paz perpetua, by Spanish October 21, 4pm Directed by Julio Cardoso and 8:30pm playwright Juan Mayorga, Manuel Longueira, Islas de la produced by Compañía del memoria. Historias de guerra en Cuartel and directed by Sahily la posguerra, is a sort or oral Moreda, uses irony, mockery narration that uses theater and the externalization of recourses to reveal the story violence to define the behind the conflict over the power/subordination Falkland Islands. performed by relationship among the warring Argentenean actors Lucía characters Adúriz, Alejandro Cobas, Marcela Haimovichi, Manuel Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Mefisto Teatro, directed by Longueira, Pablo Maruzzi and Tony Díaz, presents Muerte en Cristina Suárez. This is a 5pm Sun, el bosque, based on a novel by production of the Teatro Cuban novelist Leonardo Nacional Cervantes. Padura.

SALA ADOLFO LLAURADÓ TEATRO TRIANÓN Fri & Sat, 8:30pm, Teatro de la Luna presents Fri & Sat, Antigonón, un contingente épico Matrimonio en blanco, by the 5pm, 8:30pm (work in progress), by Rogelio Sun, well-known Polish playwright Orizondo, staged by Teatro El Sun 5pm Tadeusz Rozewicz, a complex Público. With only two play that revolves around actresses on the stage, this sexuality. reworking of the myth of Antigone uses recourses such as dance, fragmentation of the discourse and the intersexuality to delve into present-day concerns.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 40 THEATER & PERFORMING ARTS

XV Festival de Teatro de La Habana

October 25-November 3, Theaters in Havana

Although the detailed information available to the public Also from Argentina is Marica, a one-person show by Pepe with a month's advance regarding the plays to be Cibrián Campoy, presented by El Vasco Producciones. The produced is unfortunately missing this year, we play describes the work of an actor imagining the final nevertheless suggest you start training now if you want to hours of Federico García Lorca's life and his relation with be able to see, if not all, at least a good number of the plays the murderer. The actor will portray Lorca, the murderer, presented during the festival. You'll need to race from his mother and father, Salvador Dalí and a woman from the theater to theater and maybe do a little boxing to buy town. tickets or do a hurdle race to secure good seats at theaters where they are not numbered, like El Ciervo Encantado or The German-Chilean co-production Calcetines, mentiras Argos Teatro. y vino is a one-person musical which has been praised by critics. The protagonist shares details of a group of friends This year's festival, which is dedicated to the teacher, and his small world with music, comedy, philosophy and director and actor Konstantín Stanislavski, is estimated at poetry. around 70 plays (7 plays daily!) from 20 countries, including Cuba, which has announced a selection of the Other interesting offers are Falsa alarma, a play by the best productions from the past two years. As usual, great Cuban playwright Virgilio Piñera, produced by the Argentina, Mexico, Spain, Colombia and Brazil, and Cuba, Ecuadoran company Teatro Ensayo GESTUS; and Su will capture the attention of most theater lovers. Small Excelencia, Ricardo III, a Brazilian street theater version of plays and unipersonals will dominate the stage, although the Shakespeare classic, which is a must-see. there will be other tempting offers, such as Deutsches Theater Berlin, with Die Hamletmasxhine, and Teatro Like in previous years, a theoretical event will be held at Estatal Académico Vajtangov, from Russia, with Anna Unión de Escritores y Artistas de Cuba (UNEAC) as well as Karenina. workshops at the national School of Theater at the University of the Arts. Prior to the festival, the Palacio de A special highlight during the festival will be the long Convenciones will be the venue for the 34th International awaited return to Havana's stages of the great Argentine Congress of the International Theater Institute, from actress Graciela Dufau, who the Cuban public will be able October 20-25. The theme that will be examined during to enjoy in La mujer justa, based on Hungarian Sándor the congress will be the perspectives for the development Márai's novel The Fair Woman. of performing arts in the world.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 41 América Teatro

Theatres in Havana

Adolfo Llauradó América Teatro Bertolt Brecht Casa de la Comedia Sala Teatro Opened in 1941. Art Centro Cultural Also known as the Home of the Teatro deco style with mag- Cultural centre houses Salón Ensayo, it is the Estudio troupe. Varied nificent interiors a modern 300-seat base for the company theatre program Galiano 253 entre Con- space called Sala El Taller Calle 11, e/ 11 D y E. cordia y Neptuno. Centro Alternativa Justiz No. 18, entre Vedado Havana Calle 13, esq. I. Vedado Baratillo y Oficios. Old Havana (07) 862-5416 (07)832-9359

La Casona La Colmenita Fausto Teatro Gaia Adapted in 1970 as A theatre group of Probably the best An arts center that was rehearsal space for the children for children, place in Havana for set up in 2000 Teatro Estudio theatre Their performances variety and comedy Teniente y Rey No. 157, e/ company have been widely acts Cuba y Aguiar. Old Calle 11, e/D y E. Vedado acclaimed Prado No. 201, esq. Colon. Havana Sala de la Orden Tercera. (07) 832-5373 Old Havana (07) 862-0401 Convento de San Fran- (07) 863-1173 cisco, Plaza de San Francisco. Old Havana

Teatro Nacional de Hubert de Blanck El Sótano Sala Guinol Teatro Teatro Home to Cuba’s leading Predominantly stages Home to the Compañía children’s theatre and classics of internation- Teatral Rita Montaner. puppetry company al theater Quite basic Calle M, e/ 17 y 19. Vedado Calzada (7ma), No. 657, Calle K, e/ 25 y 27. (07) 832-6262 e/ A y B. Vedado Vedado (07) 830-1011 (07) 832-0630 Trianón Cine Teatro Home to the renowned theatre company Teatro El Publico Calle Línea e/ Paseo y A. Vedado (07) 830-9648

.COM With a passion for Cuba OTHER EVENTS IN HAVANA SEGUNDO MES DE LA CULTURA BRASILEÑA EN CUBA OCTOBER 2-31 HAVANA

Lovers of Brazilian culture will have a blast with the wide and diverse program that has been organized in which cinema occupies a privileged space, with the Brazil Film Club, every Wednesday, at 4 pm at Casa del Festival del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano, which screens and discusses films from different epochs¸ genres and trends. Meanwhile, the Chaplin Theater announces a series of feature films, shorts and documentaries dedicated to filmmaker Leon Hirszman from October 7-13. The lobby of the theater will exhibit photographs of Hirszman work. On the 8th, the theater of the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes will present a video on Cuban singer Yolo Bonilla, who will also review his connection with Brazilian culture. Bonilla will sing at La Zorra y el Cuervo Club on the 12th at 2pm.

Also on the 12th, but at 7 pm, Las Carolinas Theater in Old Havana will host a performance of capoeira--an Afro-Brazilian cultural expression that integrates dance, music and martial arts--by the groups Siré Angola and Caimán.

Casa de las Americas will join in the celebration with the exhibition Vidigal: retratos de una favela (Oct 31, 3pm), by the author and photographer Bruna Fonte, and the presentation of Brazilian books from Casa's catalogue.

II COLOQUIO INTERNACIONAL DEL PROGRAMA DE ESTUDIOS SOBRE LATINOS EN LOS ESTADOS UNIDOS OCTOBER 15-17, CASA DE LAS AMÉRICAS

Under the theme of “Latinos in the arts and letters,”, the colloquium will examine interactions, conflicts and complexities of the artistic and cultural production of this part of the population within US mainstream and their relationship with the production of their nations of origin, from a multilateral view, contrary to discriminatory, derogatory and prejudiced discourses that insist on seeing this population as threatening. The themes to be discussed include 1. Historiographical models of the music produced by Latinos in the United States; 2. The perspectives of theater made by and for Latinos; 3. Visual arts and the Latino character, so far and yet so close; 4. Literature, creation and the publishing market; 5. Cultural interactions: Where do we come from? Where are we headed?

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 43 FOR KIDS

TEATRO DE TÍTERES EL ARCA Fri, Sat and Sun, 3pm, through Octobre 20

The El Arca Puppet Theater continues this month with Sueño de una noche de verano based on William Shakespeare's immortal A Midsummer Night's Dream with music by Mendelssohn.

October 22, 10am The El Arca Puppet Theater will be celebrating its third anniversary with Los tres pichones, based on a short story by Cuban author Onelio Jorge Cardoso, with the performance of actress Miriam Sánchez. The celebration also includes the showing of the documentary Tía Tata, un recuerdo que TeVe.

Festival de Teatro de La Habana The Theater Festival, which is held in Havana every year around this time, also has several performances in store for the small fries: October 25: Sueño de una noche de verano, El Arca (Havana). October 26 & 27: Los pícaros burlados, Los Zahories (Las Tunas). October 28 & 29: El ruiseñor, Retablos (Cienfuegos). October 30 & 31: El circo de la ilusión, Paciencia de Guayaba (Colombia).

EN BUENA CONPANÍA THROUGHOUT OCTOBER, SAT & SUN, 4PM & 7PM CARPA TROMPOLOCO

The summer's over but the magical and adventurous world of the circus goes on. Cuba's prime circus venue, Carpa Trompoloco, located at 5ta Avenida y calle 112 in Miramar, Playa, will continue to present shows throughout the month, Saturdays and Sundays, at 4pm & 7pm. “En Buena Conpanía” (In Good Company) is the name of the new show featuring, among other acts, tightrope walkers, acrobats, clowns, gymnasts, trained animals, and the fascinating flying trapeze, which was awarded the Grand Prix during the past CIRCUBA 2013 Festival. And if you happen to be in the town of Encrucijada in Villa Clara province, don't miss Aventura Azul, the shsow that the National Circus will be presenting from October 2-6. But wherever you are, the circus

Carpa Trompoloco: 5ta. Avenida y 112, Miramar, Playa, Tel: 206 5609

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 44 OTHER EVENTS AROUND CUBA

The Day of the Seed is a traditional event that recreates XIX Fiesta de la Cultura the cultural roots of the Ibero-American world. The Tambor Fiesta, which focuses on the percussion Iberoamericana instrument, also known as conga, essential in Cuban October 23-30 popular music, aims to highlight the significant City of Holguín contributions of African cultures to Latin America. Other events include the Guitar and the Solidarity Fiestas. The Three hundred delegates from 20 countries have latter will host a cultural dialogue between the confirmed their attendance at the 19th the Ibero- communities of Spanish-born and Spanish descendants, American Culture Festival. Sponsored by Casa de the neighborhoods and visitors. Meanwhile, the New Iberoamérica, the festival commemorates the meeting Peoples Fiesta celebrates the identity built from the between the European and the American cultures 521 confluence of diverse American ethnicities and cultures. A years ago, with the arrival of Columbus in this part of the new event this year will be the first world meeting of folk world, although other assure that the Vikings has actually dances by couples. been here first. The 8th Ibero-American Congress of Thought will discuss This year's festival, which will focus on the processes of topics related to heritage and cultural identity; processes integration and emancipation in Latin America, holds of change; social and political movements; regional several sub-events such as the Latin American Arts Salon, culture and integration; the Cuban social project and the Iberoarte craft--65 craftsmen and women from national identity; history; important figures; identity and different countries have confirmed their participation-- integration processes; ethnicity, gender and development the Ibero-American audiovisual showings, and the projects; environment, bioethics and law; private and innumerable dance and music performances in squares institutional collectors; art practices, biennials and public and parks. spaces; and migration, citizenship and civil society.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 45 Caldosa & rum for the fiesta del barrio by Victoria Alcalá

“Yanisleidys! Do you have any cumin?” “Are you ever going traditional Cuban stew that contains large chunks of pork, to learn to buy cassava?” “Caballero, if you drink all the beef, chorizo and a medley of vegetables. For the caldosa, rum now, all you'll have for the party will be water!” alas, there is no fixed recipe. It takes whatever you can find in the market: potatoes, cassava, sweet potatoes, From street to street, neighborhood to neighborhood plaintain, onion, garlic, pepper, oregano, cumin, salt, throughout Cuba, scenes like these are repeated over and sausage of any kind, chicken giblets, mutton or pork ribs over every September 27th, on the eve of the anniversary or pork head, water and its ready to be cooked. Everybody of the creation of the Comités de Defensa de la Revolución on the block contributes something from their fridge or (Committees for the Defense of the Revolution), better pantry to the caldosa of unpredictable flavor. This jumble known by their acronym CDR. The organization was of meat and vegetables is then cooked in a huge pot formed on September 28, 1960, when, in the midst of one outside right on the street. Placing the pot, filling it with of Fidel Castro's impassioned speeches, several the uncooked food, lighting the fire, and taking turns explosions were heard. The reply of the multitude was to stirring the stew is a ritual in itself. When it's done, it's time give cheers to the Revolution and Fidel immediately to start the party. proposed the creation of a neighborhood organization that would defend the young revolutionary process This is the fiesta del barrio. Neighbors who don't even against internal and external dangers through the glance at each other throughout the year may get deep in surveillance by the people of enemy activity. conversation with intimate details. A family who has recently moved has the chance of getting to know the Over time, surveillance would be accompanied by other people on their block. Others catch up on some juicy activities, such as polio vaccination campaigns, blood story. Meanwhile, the little ones run around, happy to be donations, collecting waste material for recycling, etc. but able to stay up late, and the teenagers play their favorite the tradition of the party remained unchanged. music that ranges from salsa to timba to reggaeton. While fruit punch is the usual beverage for kids and senior Days before the “fiesta del Comité” a group of enthusiastic citizens, the omnipresent rum is coveted by the men--and members raise money with the help of the neighbors and some women. divide the tasks among them. One buys rum, another is responsible for the lights, others decorate the block… The party may go on past midnight at least for a couple of However, the undisputed star of the show is the person hours more. Some people leave early, some at the stroke of responsible for preparing the “caldosa.” midnight, while diehards may probably stay up until the break of day--as long as there's rum to keep them Caldosa is an enigmatic stew, a poor relative of the ajiaco, a company!

Continue to read full article + slideshow cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 46 October 20th, 1868: The birth of the Cuban National Anthem, La Bayamesa

National Cuban Culture Day is celebrated on October 20, which is considered the day that marks the birth of a rebellious nation and its identity. This day commemorates one of the most important events in Cuba's history. The Cuban National Anthem, La Bayamesa, was heard for the first time when rebel troops led by Carlos Manuel de Céspedes freed the city of Bayamo in 1868.

The author of the ardent verses was the lawyer Pedro “Perucho” Figueredo, who had been asked the year before to write “our own Marseillaise.” The next day he composed the melody of the future anthem and a month later it was played in the principal church in Bayamo. However, the hymn would have to wait 14 months for the lyrics, which Perucho wrote after the battle of October 20, 1868, right on the saddle of his horse. Two years later, he was captured by the Spaniards and just before he was executed, he shouted the line from his anthem: Morir por la Patria es vivir – “To die for the Motherland is to live.”

From October 20, 1868 on, the Bayamo Anthem presided every ceremony and action of the Cuban independence movement. Over time, it transcended as a symbol of the nation and faithful expression of the character and identity of the Cuban people. This is why on August 22, 1980, the Council of Ministers agreed to establish October 20 as Cuban Culture Day in acknowledgement of the day that the people sang Cuba's National Anthem, expressing the spirit of independence in its inflamed music and patriotic poetry.

cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 47 Calle 24 @ Calle 19 El Vedado 830-5205

Yesterday, as we told some friends about all the exciting Cuba (Libro) Va! things afoot, they said, 'Cuba Libro has some kind of angel By Conner Gorry watching over it.' Actually, we have three and everyone who has come in so far has felt them in one way or another. Just a month in and Cuba Libro – 'the islands first English- Angels, magic, mana, aloha – whatever you call it, we've language bookstore – is proving a wild ride. Quite like got it, not unlike Cuba itself. Cuba itself, it's chaotic and fun; full of daily randomness Follow Cuba Libro developments at our FaceBook page like blackouts, fumigation, and marriage proposals; (https://www.facebook.com/cubalibrohav) and on Twitter receiving limitless solidarity from family, friends, and @cubalibrohavana. strangers; and is a precipitous, perennial learning curve – Cubans are crazy for cappuccino for instance and there's Cuba Libro: Havana's 1st English-Language Bookstore & Café huge demand for music magazines. Located on a terminally shady corner in the desirable Vedado d i s t r i c t , t h i s ' c a f é l i t e r a r i o ' i s b r i n g i n g t h e A day doesn't go by without interesting people dropping bookstore/coffeehouse concept to the island. All books and in, from DJs and doctors to ambassadors and world magazines pass through the 'Conner filter' (if you find a travelers, and novel experiences are always unfolding or Harlequin Romance on the shelves, you get a free espresso!): I just about to. Already we've scheduled art shows through guarantee if you're in need of quality reading material or conversation with interesting, creative Cubans, you'll find it January with magnificent exhibits by local artists of here. drawings, graffiti, even puppets and tapestries, plus the water bottle refill service is catching on. In addition to featuring monthly shows by talented local artists – August showcases over a dozen captivating images by Cuba Libro has also sparked a fury of donations from photographer Alain Gutiérrez – Cuba Libro offers many services people living here and others who wished they did; we're travelers are after: water bottle refills; postcards, stamps, and happy to report that our public has very good taste. The mailing; a cultural calendar (so you won't miss that hot concert most recent acquisitions include George Eliot and James or polemic play); and expert travel tips. This is an ethically- Joyce, Steinbeck, Stendhal and yes, Our Man in Havana. responsible business that offers a lending library for those who can't afford books, a collective employment model where the And just the other day, as we sipped our espressos in the entire team benefits, and an environmentally-friendly approach. garden with a Cuban philosophy professor, something Like Cuba itself, Cuba Libro strives for equity and a healthy, extraordinary (and historic) happened: a gentleman rode culturally-rich atmosphere. up to our door on a bicycle, extracted a padded manila This is also a regguetón free zone – we listen to real music at envelope from his satchel and delivered our first donation Cuba Libro! Come early to snag a coveted hammock or hanging sent through the US, and received by the Cuban postal chair in the garden. services. It was postmarked August 13, from Northfield, Illinois, and was placed in our hands on August 27th. Big Open Monday-Saturday, 10am-8pm. ups to author Libby Fischer Hellmann for going to the Continue to read full article + slideshow effort and expense (sending this 1-pound book cost $16) to support Cuba Libro. Next time you're in Havana, the coffee is on us! cubaABSOLUTELY.COM With a Passion for Cuba PAGE 48 El Atelier

CA 5 CA TOP PICK Cuba Absolutely Review: Style of food Fussion Cost Expensive September 2013 Type of place Paladar (private) Atelier keeps getting better, recent renovations have improved the place while the food remains excellent. Atelier is run by Niuris Food Higueras who has a passion for creating food. She is the driving Ambience force--modest, capable, and warm. She defines the style of the Service food as signature cuisine, an experimental culinary workshop. The Value food changes every day, every week, hence those handwritten Best for Interesting menu, beau- menu. Eclectic, everything from Falafels, Pato confitado [candied tiful building with great décor duck], Lomito de res con camarones y Espuma de apio al olivo and good service. [sirloin steak with shrimp and celery mousse], Conejo al vino [rab- bit in wine] to cerdo asado (roast pork). Desserts are standard (flan, Worst for Getting a reservation tarts, ice cream) but good. in busy periods. The large main room is decorated with sparse modern lines, inside Calle 5 entre Paseo y 2, Vedado a typically idiosyncratic Vedado mansion. Two balconies have +53 (07) 836-2025 boundless cushions for the outdoor lounge. An antique hob outsi- [email protected] de, old sewing and adding machines inside make the place retro yet Open noon-midnight daily not old. Le Chansonnier

Best places to eat in Havana

El Atelier CA 5 Bikos CA 5 Café Laurent CA 5 Calle 10 CA 5 Contemporary fusion Spanish/Mediterranean Spanish/Mediterranean International Calle 5 entre Paseo y 2, Calle 19, No 1010, esquina Calle M No. 257, entre 19 y Calle 10 No. 314 entre 3ra Vedado a 12, Vedado 21, Vedado y 5ta, Miramar (07) 836-7075 (07) 836-3603 (07) 831-2090/832-6890 (07) 205-3970

La Casa CA 5 Casa Miglis CA 5 El CA 5+ Le CA 5+ Contemporary fusion Swedish Chanchullero Chansonnier Calle 30 No. 865 entre 26 Lealtad 120 entre Ánimas Spanish/Mediterranean Contemporary fusion y 41, Nuevo Vedado y Lagunas. Centro Teniente Rey 457ª bajo Calle J No. 257 entre Havana (07) 881-7000 entre Bernaza y El Cristo Línea y 15, Vedado (07) 864-1486 (07) 872-8227 (07) 832-1576

El Cocinero CA 5+ Corte del CA 5+ Il Divino CA 5+ Doña CA 5+ International Principe (Sergio’s) International Eutimia Calle 26, S/N, between 11 Italian Calle Raquel, No. 50 e/ Cuban/Creole and 13, Vedado. Esperanza y Lindero. 9na esq. 74, Playa Reparto Castillo de Averhoff, Callejón del Chorro No. 60C. Plaza de la Catedral (07) 832-2355 (05) 255-9091 Mantilla, Arroyo Naranjo (07) 643-7734 (05) 281-5883

La Fontana CA 5+ La Guarida CA 5+ Ivan Chef CA 5+ Rio Mar CA 5 International Contemporary fusion Justo International Calle 46 No. 305 esquina Concordia 418 entre Spanish/Mediterranean 3A y Final # 11, La Puntilla, a 3ra, Miramar Gervasio y Escobar Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacun, Miramar, Havana, Cuba (07) 202-8337 (07) 866-9047 Havana Vieja (07) 863-9697

San Cristóbal CA 5 Santy CA 5+ Starbien CA 5 El Templete CA 5 Cuban/Creole Sushi/Oriental Spanish/Mediterranean Spanish/Mediterranean Calle San Rafael No 469 Calle 240A No 3023 y Calle 29 # 205 entre B y Avenida del Puerto No. 12 entre Lealtad y Cam- 3raC, Jaimanitas C. Vedado. esquina a Narciso López panario (05) 286-7039 (07) 830-0711 (07) 866-8807 (07) 860-9109

.COM With a passion for Cuba El Chanchullero CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Spanish/Mediterranean Cost Cheap VIDEO Type of place Paladar (private) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Amazing value and quality food in an authentic hole in the wall place with a good vibe. Worst for Can get hot during summer.

Teniente Rey 457ª bajos entre Bernaza y El Cristo. Havana Vieja +53 7 872 8227

Le Chansonnier CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion Cost Expensive Type of place Paladar (private) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The IT Place, the IN Place. Stylish, elegant and sophisticated décor. Worst for Getting a reservation in busy periods. Getting taken over by American tour groups.

Calle J No. 257 entre Línea y 15, Vedado (7) 832 1576

cabezal El Cocinero CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food International Cost Moderate Type of place Paladar (private) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Trendy, funky and buzzing atmo- sphere. Great post modern location. Quality food. Worst for When it rains you get wet on the main deck.

Calle 26, S/N, between 11 and 13, Vedado. (7) 832 2355

Corte del Príncipe CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Italian Cost Expensive Type of place Paladar (private) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Spectacular homemade Italian pastas. Cozy atmosphere, excellent service. Worst for Getting a reservation. Not cheap (although its worth it)

9na esq. 74, Playa 5-255-9091

.COM With a passion for Cuba Miramar Cafe

Best Bars & Clubs in Havana

Barbaram CA 4+ Bertolt CA 5 Bohemio Bar CA 5- Café Jazz CA 4+ Pepito’s Bar Brecht Café Teatro Bar – contemporary Miramar Live music – trova Live music – contem- Calle 21 No 1065 e/ 12 y Jazz Club porary fusion 14, Vedado. Calle 26 e/ Avenida Cine Teatro Miramar. Zoologigo & Calle 47, Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado. (07) 833-6918 Calle 5ta Esquina a 94, Nuevo Vedado. (07) 830-1354 / 832-9359 Miramar. (07) 881-1808

El Cocinero CA 5+ Don Cangrejo CA 5- Espacios CA 5- Factoria CA 4+ Bar – contemporary Club – contemporary Bar – contemporary Plaza Vieja Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, fusion Calle 10, e/ 5ta y 31, Bar – Traditional Vedado. Avenida 1ra e/ Calles 16 & Miramar. San Ignacio, esquina 18, Miramar. Muralla, Plaza Vieja, Old (07) 204-3837 Havana. (07) 866-4453

La Floridita CA 5- La Fontana CA 5 El Gato CA 4+ Melem Bar CA 5- Bar – Traditional bar Tuerto Bar – contemporary Obispo No. 557 esq Ave. Bar – contemporary Bar – contemporary 1ra, e/ 58 y 60, Miramar. de Bélgica (Monserrate), Calle 46 No. 305, esquina Calle O, e/ 17 y 19, Old Havana 3ra, Miramar Vedado (07) 867-1299 / 867-1300 (07) 202-8337 (07) 833-2224

Nacional CA 4+ Privé Lounge CA 5 Salon Rosado CA 4+ Sangri-La CA 5 Hotel - La Terraza Jazz Club / Bar de la Tropical Bar – contemporary Bar – Traditional Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra Concert venue Avenida 21, e/ Calle 36 y Calle O, esquina 21, y 3ra A, Miramar, Playa. Ave. 41 esq. 46, Nicanor 42, Miramar. Vedado. (07) 209-2719 del Campo, Marianao. (0) 5-264-8343 (07) 836-3564 / 873-3564 (07) 203-5322

El Sauce CA 5- Sloppy Joe’s CA 4+ Teatro Bellas CA 5- La Zorra y el CA 5 Live music – contempo- Bar Artes Cuervo rary Bar – Traditional Live music – contem- Jazz Club Avenida 9na #12015, e/ Ánimas, esq. Zulueta, porary Calle 23, e/ N y O Calles 120 y 130, Miramar. Habana Vieja. Calle Trocadero e/ (07) 833-2402 (07) 204-6428 (07) 866 7157 Agramonte & Avenida de las Misiones. Old Havana

.COM With a passion for Cuba El Cocinero CA 5+ CA TOP PICK

VIDEO Style Bar / Contemporary Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Fabulous setting, great service, cool vibe and tasty food. What’s not to like. Worst for Climbing up the three flights of winding stairs.

Calle 26, S/N, between 11 and 13, Vedado. (07) 832-2355

Sloppy Joe’s Bar CA 4+ CA TOP PICK Style Bar / Traditional Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Immense original bar lovingly restored. Good service, History. Worst for Not quite grimy. Too clean.

Ánimas, esq. Zulueta La Habana Vieja, (07) 866-7157

cabezal Privé Lounge CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style Jazz Club / Bar Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Combines comfort, quality music, and a chill atmosphere brilliantly. Worst for It can get loud with chattering youth and there are some seats with blocked sight lines.

Calle 88A No. 306 e/ 3ra y 3ra A, Miramar, Playa. (07) 209-2719

Sangri-La CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style Bar – contemporary Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farandula. Worst for Gets extremely packed on a busy night. When is too cool not fun anymore?

Avenida 21, Entre Calle 36 y 42, Miramar. (Corner of 42) (07) 209-2719

.COM With a passion for Cuba Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas

Havana’s best Museums

Arte Corte Cámara Oscura Casa Oswaldo Castillo de los Tres (Papito’s) 360-degree panoramic Guayasamín Reyes del Morro Hairdressing salon and view of Old Havana Work by Oswaldo Symbol of Havana and “interactive museum” Brasil (Teniente Rey), Guayasamín most visited place esquina a Mercaderes, North-eastern side of the Aguiar 10 entre Peña Obrapía 111, entre Oficios Habana Vieja harbor Pobre y Monserrate, y Mercaderes, Habana Habana Vieja Vieja

Castillo de la Depósito del Fundación Maqueta de Real Fuerza Automóvil Havana Club La Habana Fortress 49 restored vehicles Stages of traditional Scale model of Havana O'Reilly #1, Plaza de from 1905 to 1989 rum production (third largest in world) Armas, Habana Vieja Oficios 13 esquina a Avenida del Puerto 262, 28 #113 entre 1ra y 3ra, Callejón de Jústiz, esq. a Sol, Habana Vieja Miramar Habana Vieja

Museo Armería Museo de la Ciudad Museo del Museo de la Farma- 9 de Abril Palacio de los Capi- Chocolate cia Habanera La Firearms and bladed tanes Generales Watch chocolates Reunión weapons C18th to 20th Cuba (Tacón) e/ Obispo being made Historic, restored Mercaderes 157, e/ Obra- y O’Reilly, Habana Vieja Mercaderes esq. a Amar- pharmacy pía y Lamparilla, Habana gura, Habana Vieja Brasil (Teniente Rey) esq. Vieja a Compostela, Habana Vieja Museo del Museo Napoleónico Museo de la Museo Nacional Ferrocarril Finest collection of Revolución de Bellas Artes Housed in the former Napoleonic and French Revolutionary history World-class cultural Cristina railway station Revolutionary memo- Refugio 1 e/ Monserrate y centre rabilia outside France Estación Cristina, s/n, esq. Zulueta, Habana Vieja Trocadero e/ Zulueta y a Arroyo, Habana Vieja San Miguel #1159, e/ Monserrate, Habana Ronda y Masón, Vedado Vieja

Museo Nacional Museo Nacional de Planetario El Templete de la Danza Artes Decorativas Interactive cultural Commemorates the Objects from Alicia Aristocratic wealth, center first mass held Alonso’s collection taste and passion Mercaderes 311 e/ Brasil Baratillo, esq. a O’Reilly, Línea y G (Avenida de los 17 #502 esq. a E, Vedado (Teniente Rey) y Muralla. Habana Vieja Presidentes), Vedado Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja

.COM With a passion for Cuba