For more Baja updates, see www.discoverbaja.com/news TRAVEL CLUB

For more information and Baja news, see: www.discoverbaja.com/baja-california- From the DBTC Office Baja News information/baja-news/ School’s back in session, there’s a Toll Road to Ensenada Reopening Sept 15: crisp feeling in the air and the We’re happy to announce that the toll road from Rosarito to Ensenada will reopen on Sept 15. leaves are starting to change Some construction to prevent further damages will colors. Fall is here and that means continue, but will not affect through traffic. For it’s time to head down to Baja!

more information, see bit.ly/1wdGJOh We have a lot of fun lined up for East Otay 2 Border Crossing: The East Otay 2 you this season. There’s still space border crossing that will be a paid border crossing, on our Mata Ortiz trip coming up at will finally be put to work. The new crossing could the end of September and we’ve be in operation as early as the end of 2017. With got a special lecture by Graham 35 new lanes (27 northbound and 8 southbound), Mackintosh in October. the new crossing will greatly ease border congestion for the region. Call us for Mexican auto insurance, FMMs (personal or FMM Checkpoints: We’ve had a number of nautical), fishing licenses, members reporting that they are being asked for temporary importation for boats or FMM tourist permits when traveling around Rosarito. As a reminder, if you are anywhere anything else you need for your farther than 20 kilometers south of the border, you trip.

need to have an FMM. Also, keep in mind that if See you in Baja! you do not have an FMM and you get into an accident, you are considered to not be in Hugh, Carol, Jen, Maythé & accordance with the law and your insurance may Monica be rendered invalid. The easiest way to get your FMM is prepaid through Discover Baja. www.discoverbaja.com/go/fmm-tourist-permits/ PESO EXCHANGE RATE: $13.19 to $1 U.S. dollar DBTC BAJA CAJA All of the Baja info you need in one box! PEMEX PRICES PESO EXCHANGE RATE: $13.14 to $1 U.S. dollar Northern Baja: PEMEX PRICES: Northern Baja: Magna: $3.83/gal, Premium: $4.04/gal, Diesel: $3.93/gal Magna: $3.83/gal Southern Baja: Magna: $3.90/gal, Premium: $3.98/gal, Diesel: $3.93/gal Premium: $4.04/gal FISHING LICENSES: Day: $12.25, Week: $31.20, Month: $42.80, Year: $54.40 for members. Diesel: $3.93/gal www.discoverbaja.com/go/fishing-licenses Southern Baja: PREPAID FMMs: $35 DBTC members only. www.discoverbaja.com/go/fmm-tourist-permits Magna: $3.90/gal BOAT TEMPORARY IMPORT PERMITS (TIPs): $45 fee for DBTC to handle processing. Service Premium: $3.98/gal for DBTC members only. www.discoverbaja.com/go/temporary-boat-importation/ Diesel: $3.93/gal NAUTICAL FMMs: $10 fee for DBTC to process. Service for DBTC members only. www.discoverbaja.com/go/nautical-sportfishing-fmm/ MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE: www.discoverbajaonline.com 1 ON OUR RADAR FOR SEPTEMBER

To keep up on the latest Baja events, check out www.discoverbaja.com/events

SEPT 16 SEPT 21 Día de la 36th Fish and Independencia Seafood Fair de México ŸFree Entrance ŸThe “Grito de Dolores” was uttered by Ÿ12 noon Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla on September ŸPlaya Hermosa 16, 1810 officially proclaiming the Boardwalk in Ensenada beginning of the Mexican War of ŸThe Baja Seafood Expo (the largest fish Independence expo in Mexico) culminates with this ŸCelebrate by watching a re-enactment seafood event featuring the freshest and of the famous “grito” at midnight on the best seafood dishes from local night of Sept 15 and eating chiles en restaurants nogada. ¡Viva Mexico! Ÿbajaseafoodexpo.com

SEPT 27 SEPT 35th Anniversary 24-29 Rosarito Ensenada DBTC Bike Ride Journey ŸThis bi-annual event to Mata features a 50-mile fun Ortiz, bicycle ride from Mexico Rosarito to Ensenada ŸJoin us on an adventure to Mata Ortiz, ŸThere’s a grand Mexico to discover archaeological sites fiesta at the finish line and experience the famous local artist with music, live entertainment, food and pottery scene drinks ŸFor more information, please see page 4 Ÿwww.rosaritoensenada.org Ÿdiscoverbaja.com/2014/08/06/mata-ortiz

Mariachi y Ballet Folklórico Festival The Festival Internacional del Mariachi y Ballet Folklórico is back again for it’s 5th year in Rosarito Beach. The festival spans four days with student workshops for children in mariachi and folklórico and concludes with an extravaganza concert on Saturday October 4th. The concert will feature the famous Mariachi Vargas and the Mariachi Divas. 100% of proceeds from the concert will benefit the Boys & Girls Club of Rosarito. For tickets and more information: www.clubrosarito.org 2 Baja’s 51 year old male diver looking for ride/ friends to go to a place 30 miles south of Hidden Loreto around December 7. 530-249-4009 Gold Jim Hendricks and Jim Cline are unable to continue 2nd Edition! publishing the beautiful Baja Calendar. If anyone is $15.00 interested in taking over this opportunity, Jim Cline Members receive would be happy to provide Baja photos, advice and extra 10% discount. distribution lists. Contact Jim Cline at [email protected] Call 800-727-2252 Herman Hill, from whose memory these When getting Mexican auto insurance, all towed stories come, passed away in a car accident in 2013. He was in his 92nd year units must be listed on your insurance policy. of a fabulous life of seeking gold in the If you have an accident and the towed units are Baja. This book is an update of the original not listed on the policy, the policy will be invalid. first edition, which has been sold out. It contains new material as well as all the original material found in the first edition. WRITERS WANTED! Are you an avid Baja His stories, filled with humor and verve, adventurer with a talent for writing? Do you like to illuminate the history of the beautiful Baja see your name in print? Discover Baja is looking for Pueblo of Bahia de los Angeles. A Baja writers to submit articles for possible publication prospector, a dreamer, and an adventurer, in our blog or newsletter. Please email stories to Herman's stories capture both a region [email protected] and a lost time in American history.

The next event in the Discover Baja lecture series… Graham Mackintosh’s Baja Adventures!

Join us Thursday, October 16th in San Diego for an entertaining evening as legendary Baja author, Graham Mackintosh, regales us with his tales of recent adventures in Baja.

Graham Mackintosh is the author of the Baja books “Into a Desert Place,” “Journey with a Baja Burro,” “Marooned with Very Little Beer,” and “Nearer My Dog to Thee” www.grahammackintosh.com

Thursday, October 16th at 7pm Liberty Station - NTC Command Center Meeting Room 1 2640 Historic Decatur Road San Diego, CA 92106

Free for Discover Baja members. $5 for nonmembers.

RSVP to [email protected] or 800-727-2252 3 Join Discover Baja and Baja Custom Tours for a

Sept. 24-29, 2014

Join Discover Baja and Baja Custom Tours on a wonderful adventure to Mata Ortiz, Mexico! This six-day trip will take place from September 24-29, 2014. Trip will start and end in San Diego.

This trip is full of treasures—ancient ruins, newly discovered caverns, unique handcrafted pottery, and always, the wonderful Mexican people. It is hard not to become enchanted with the village of Mata Ortiz and its warm, compassionate, talented people. It is home to the legendary Juan Quezada – the magnificent artist and humble teacher who has discovered the lost secrets of this special type of pottery making and has taught them to the people in his village. You'll meet local pottery artists, learn about the pottery process, watch the artists making their pottery, and, of course, get the opportunity to purchase some of the pots to take home with you. In addition to experiencing the pottery scene in Mata Ortiz, you'll have the opportunity to visit ancient petroglyphs and cave dwellings at Cueva de la Jolla, and see the Paquime Archeological Zone, ruins of a civilization from the 1200s. On the way back from Mexico, a stop at the Kartchner Caverns State Park in Arizona will be sure to amaze!

This will be a perfect opportunity to buy gifts and either start, or add to, your own collection of Mata Ortiz pottery. These works of art will only increase in value as Mata Ortiz becomes better known throughout the world. Visit the village now while it is still relatively untouched!

The all-inclusive price of $1,295 is based on double occupancy.

To reserve your space, please call Discover Baja at 800-727-2252 or email [email protected]

For more information and a full itinerary of the trip: www.discoverbaja.com/2014/08/06/mata-ortiz/ 4 How to Cross the Border Faster In a perfect world, the margaritas are always flowing, the fish are biting, and we would breeze right across the border on our way back from Baja. Oh well, two out of three ain’t bad and nothing worthwhile ever came that easy, right? Unfortunately, the border wait is an inevitable trial of patience, but we’ve put together some tips for you to help make it a little easier and faster. For more information on any of these below, see our website at www.discoverbaja.com/go/returning-u-s/#entrylanes. And make sure to check out our border chart on the next page that we put together as an easy reference for you to keep on hand for any of your border questions.

SENTRI Ready Lane Fastrack/Fast Pass For $125, you can buy yourself five If you don’t want to deal with the hassle (San Ysidro border crossing ONLY) years worth of expedited border of applying for SENTRI or you’re looking Consider staying at hotels or crossings. You’ll need to apply for a more immediate solution, a great frequenting places in northern Baja online at GOES (https://goes- option is to get a passport card. The that issue the “Fast Pass.” This is a app.cbp.dhs.gov) where you’ll Ready Lane is for anyone with an RFID- one-time use pass that can be start the application process. Once enabled document to use. This includes used for the medical lane at the you’ve been approved, you’ll enhanced drivers license from the U.S. San Ysidro border crossing. schedule an in-person interview states of Michigan, New York, Vermont Reported wait for the Fast Pass where you’ll need to provide proof and Washington as well as the lane is usually about 30 minutes, of citizenship, proof of income and Canadian provinces of British Columbia, but can be much higher on holiday evidence of residence. If you want Manitoba, Ontario and Quebec weekends. Many medical offices to have your car SENTRI (California does NOT currently have and some hotels (restaurants are approved to use driving across in RFID-enabled drivers licenses, but they no longer able to issue fast passes) the SENTRI lane, you’ll need to are currently reviewing legislation to in Tijuana, Rosarito and Ensenada bring it to the interview for change that). This also includes have the fast passes available for inspection as well as proof of U.S. passport cards (NOT passport books). If customers. Always call ahead to auto insurance. The entire SENTRI you already have a passport, it’s an make sure that the establishment process generally takes a few extra $30 to get a passport card. The has Fast Passes available as it can months between first applying and San Diego passport office can process it change on a daily basis. While the the time you get your SENTRI card for you same day if you’re able to show organization that runs the Fast in the mail. The process includes a proof of travel. You can use your RFID- Pass program will not release an background check, so if you have enabled document for expedited official list of establishments that any DUIs or past incidences on pedestrian crossing and there’s a offer the pass, we’ve gathered a list your record, you may not be passenger (car) ready lane crossing if of places that offer the Fast Pass at approved for SENTRI. See our everyone in the car has an RFID- www.discoverbaja.com/go/ Border Chart on the next page for enabled document. See our Border returning-u-s/#entrylanes. You information on SENTRI lanes at Chart on the next page for availability of can also call the DBTC office for an specific border crossings. Ready Lanes at specific borders. updated list. Other Tips: -Take the Blvd 2000 to the Otay Border so that you bypass the traffic of Tijuana and the crowds at San Ysidro. -Tecate is also a short wait for regular border lines, but be aware that the Tecate border closes at 11pm. Even if you’ve been waiting in line, when the border closes at 11, you will not be able to cross if you haven’t already. -Go to Best Time to Cross the Border (traffic.calit2.net/border/border-crossing-wait-times-map.php) or download their “Border Wait” app for your smartphone so that you can see data on the best days and times to cross the border, and check current wait times for the various border crossings. They have information for all of the different lanes (ie passenger regular, pedestrian SENTRI, Ready Lane, etc). Current border waits are as reported by CBP and are not always 100% accurate. The best method for determining current wait time is to look at the “ireports” on the app. Please help us all out by recording your own wait time using the “ireport” feature when crossing yourself. -Go to bordertraffic.com for traffic cameras to see the lines at San Ysidro and Otay Mesa. -Have patience, some relief is on the way. Construction at the San Ysidro border crossing will be finished in the next few months and all northbound lanes will be opened and staffed. Progress continues on the Otay East Paid Border crossing which will be an expedited border crossing for those who wish to pay a toll. In addition, there will be a new pedestrian border crossing to access the Tijuana Rodriguez airport from San Diego which will be completed in 2015. 5 SAN$ OTAY TECATE MEXICALI$ MEXICALI$ Baja CaliforniaYSIDRO Border Crossing ChartWEST EAST BORDER$HOURS 24/7 24/7 5am(11pm 24/7 3am(midnight IMMIGRATION$(SAT) Open424/7SAN$ Open424/7OTAY Open45am(11pmTECATE Open424/7.444444444444444444444MEXICALI$ Open46am(10pm44444444444444444444444444444444MEXICALI$ YSIDRO WEST EAST CUSTOMS$(ADUANAS) Open424/7 Open4Mon(Sat:4 Open48am(4pm4 Open424/744444444444444444444444444Open46am(10pm44444444444444444444444 24/7 24/7 5am(11pm 24/7 3am(midnight BORDER$HOURS 8am(9pm;4Sun:4 9am(6pm IMMIGRATION$(SAT) Open424/7 Open424/7 Open45am(11pm Open424/74444444444444444Open46am(10pm44444444444444444444444444444444 BANJERCITO Open424/7.4Only4Open4Mon(Sat:4 Open48am(4pm44444444444444444444444NO4Banjercito.4 Open46am(10pm4444444444444444444444444 CUSTOMS$(ADUANAS) accepts4Open424/7 8am(9pm;4Sun:4Open4Mon(Sat:4 Open48am(4pm4 There4is4an4HSBC4Open424/744444444444444444444444444Open46am(10pm44444444444444444444444 Mexico)$ payment4for4 9am(4pm8am(9pm;4Sun:4 Bank4for4FMMs444444444444444444444444 FMMs 9am(6pm PAPERWORKBANJERCITO FMMsOpen424/7.4Only4FMMs,4boat4and4Open4Mon(Sat:4 FMMs,4boat4and4Open48am(4pm44444444444444444444444FMMsNO4Banjercito.4 FMMs,4boat4and4Open46am(10pm4444444444444444444444444 accepts4 car4temporary48am(9pm;4Sun:4 car4temorary4 There4is4an4HSBC4 car4temporary4 Mexico)$

SOUTHBOUND$(Crossing$into$ payment4for4 import4permits49am(4pm import4permits Bank4for4FMMs444444444444444444444444import4permits4 FMMs (TIPs) (TIPs) BORDER$HOURSPAPERWORK 24/7FMMs 24/7FMMs,4boat4and4 5am(11pmFMMs,4boat4and4 24/7FMMs 3am(midnightFMMs,4boat4and4 PASSENGER$REGULAR$ YES.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open424/7.4car4temporary4 YES.4Open45am(car4temorary4 YES.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open43am(car4temporary4

SOUTHBOUND$(Crossing$into$ import4permits4 import4permits import4permits4 LANE Typical4wait:414 Typical4wait:414 11pm.4Typical4 Typical4wait:414hr.,4midnight.4Typical4 hr,4404min hr.4104min.(TIPs) wait:4304min. 54min. wait:4504min.(TIPs) BORDER$HOURS 24/7 24/7 5am(11pm 24/7 3am(midnight PASSENGER$SENTRI$PASSENGER$REGULAR$ YES.4Open424/7.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open424/7.4Open424/7.4 Open45am( YES.4Open424/7.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open43am(Open43am( LANELANE Typical4wait:4204Typical4wait:414 Typical4wait:4104Typical4wait:414hr.411pm.4Typical4 Typical4wait:484Typical4wait:414 midnight.4Typical4 min.hr,4404min min.104min. wait:4304min.X min.hr.,454min. wait:404min.wait:4504min. PASSENGER$READY$PASSENGER$SENTRI$ YES.4Open424/7.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open424/7.4Open424/7.4 Open424/7.4 YES.4Open43am(Open43am( Typical4wait:4204 Typical4wait:4104 Typical4wait:484 midnight.4Typical4 LANELANE Typical4wait:414 Typical4wait:4454 midnight.4Typical4 hr.,454min.min. min.min. XX min. X wait:4304min.wait:404min. PASSENGER$FAST$PASSENGER$READY$ YES.4Open48am(Open424/7.4 Open424/7.4 Open43am( Typical4wait:414 Typical4wait:4454 midnight.4Typical4 TRAK$LANELANE 10pm.4Typical4 X X wait:4304min.hr.,454min. min. X X X wait:4304min.X PEDESTRIAN$REGULAR$PASSENGER$FAST$ YES.4Open424/7.4Open48am( YES.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Opne45am( YES.4Open424/7.4 YES.4Open43am( 10pm.4Typical4 LANETRAK$LANE Typical4wait:414 Typical4wait:4254X 11pm.4Typical4X Typical4wait:4304X midnight.4Typical4X hr.,454min.wait:4304min. min. wait:454min. min. wait:404min. PEDESTRIAN$REGULAR$Open424/7.4 Open424/7.4 Open45am( Open424/7.4 Open43am( PEDESTRIAN$SENTRI$LANE USE4Typical4wait:414 USE4Typical4wait:4254 11pm.4Typical4 USE4PEDESTRIAN4Typical4wait:4304 midnight.4Typical4 hr.,454min. min. wait:454min. min. wait:404min. LANE PEDESTRIAN4 PEDESTRIAN4 READY4LANE PEDESTRIAN$SENTRI$ READY4LANEUSE4 READY4LANEUSE4PEDESTRIAN4 X USE4PEDESTRIAN4 X NORTHBOUND$(Crossing$into$the$U.S.) PEDESTRIAN$READY$LANE YES.4Open424/7.4PEDESTRIAN4 YES.4Open424/7.4READY4LANE YES.4Open424/7.4READY4LANE READY4LANE X X NORTHBOUND$(Crossing$into$the$U.S.) LANE Typical4wait:4404 Typical4wait:4204 PEDESTRIAN$READY$ min.Open424/7.4 min.Open424/7.4 X Open424/7.4 X PEDESTRIAN$LANE YESTypical4wait:4404 Typical4wait:4204 min. min. X X HANDICAP SPECIAL$NOTES There4is4a4 Use4the4Otay44 SPECIAL$NOTES northbound4 Use4the4Otay4when4declaring4 pedestrian4 border4crossing4wood4or4 handicap4 when4declaring4household4items4 crossing4at4San4 wood4(for4including4used4 Ysidro building4or4fire4clothing4and4 wood)4to4take4shoes4to4take4 into4Mexicointo4Mexico

*All4border4wait4times4are4as4reported4by4the4CBP,4August42014.*All4border4wait4times4are4as4reported4by4the4CBP,4August42014.

See4bordertraffic.com4for4live4camera4views4of4border4waits 6

You4can4find4current4crossing4times4and4charts4of4typical4crossing4times4at4LINK4or4by4downloading4the4Border4Wait4app.4 Sometimes4the4current4wait4times4(which4are4reported4by4CBP)4can4be4inaccurate,4so4look4at4the4user4ireports.4And4don't4forget4to4report4your4own4time. NAME: Jen Kramer TOWN: Rosarito HOW LONG: One and a half years OCCUPATION: Marketing Director for Discover Baja BIO: As the daughter of Hugh and Carol, I grew up traveling to Baja from the time I was an infant. Most of my favorite childhood memories are from traveling around Baja in our VW camper with the Kingston Trio playing in the background and a sense of adventure in the air. That spirit and love for Baja never left me, even in the decade that I spent in New York City working in the fashion industry. Now, as the marketing director for Discover Baja, I have the privilege of getting to experience the best of Baja for a living. In my free time, I also write www.bajatheothercalifornia.com, a blog about some of my favorite places to eat, drink and explore in northern Baja. Best activities to enjoy in traditional Mexican restaurants in Rosarito? Rosarito has a little town and I love all of them. My What are the best beaches to something for everyone – beach family has been frequenting them visit in Rosarito? One of the main goers, surfers, foodies, golfers, for decades. They all feature a attractions of Rosarito is the beach. explorers. They just sunk a ship to wonderfully authentic setting with The beach along the main part of town is large and beautiful and operate as a new underwater dive wood and cactus decor, candle offers lots of activities to enjoy such park, and the Coronado Islands lighting and a lady making as ATVs, horseback riding, surfing (just a few miles off the coast) are a homemade tortillas in the corner. El and ultralight airplanes. If you’re haven for divers and fishermen. Nido has been around since the K38 and Baja Malibu are great 70s and is a classic right in town; looking for a more peaceful spots for surfing. Baja Mar and Los Pelicanos has a lovely spot experience, there’s a gorgeous Real del Mar are popular for right on the beach; La Estancia has beach north of town right across golfing. You can enjoy an easy day great steaks (and margaritas); and from the Baja California Convention trip up to Tijuana or down to my favorite of the bunch is Center that is absolutely breathtaking and minus all of the Ensenada, as well as the Valle de Tapanco. You can’t go to Rosarito crowds from town. Guadalupe for wine tasting. without going to at least one of these restaurants. Carnitas la Flor Any popular nightlife or Any good street food? There are de Michoacán is a famous local’s lots of good taco stands along the entertainment? Rosarito used to spot for carnitas and Betuccini’s is be known as a popular spring main street in town, Benito Juarez. delicious Italian with homemade break spot with clubs and bars One of the most popular taco pastas and pizzas in a charming crawling with college students stands, Tacos el Yaqui, serves setting. Just south of town down at arrachera tacos just a few blocks partying all night long. But the city the famous surf spot K38, Calypso off of Benito Juarez. Tito’s Mariscos has grown up a lot over the past Baja restaurant (the same Calypso (up across from the Comercial few years. While there’s still a small that used to be up in Leucadia in party scene at places like Papas & Mexicana) is probably my favorite northern San Diego for decades) is because you can get giant, Beer and Iggy’s, there are lots of some of the best food in Rosarito quality restaurants and nicer bars delicious fish tacos for under a with a great outdoor space as well. that offer a more adult Rosarito dollar apiece. One taco is a full experience. Extremely talented meal in itself. If you’re looking for What are some of the best hotels something a little different, El in the area? The Rosarito Beach artists, like the guitarist Miguel de Gaucho Argentino is a great little Hotel is a classic that celebrities Hoyos and the musician Quino Argentinian place with steak like Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne McWhinney from Big Mountain, sandwiches and empanadas. It and Gregory Peck frequented in play live music at hotels and used to be a streetcart and recently their day. There are also plenty of restaurants around town with no moved into a little restaurant space. condo rentals around town where cover to get in. It’s always a casual and intimate experience. you can stay in a luxury condo right Favorite sit-down restaurants? on the beach and enjoy nice The Perez family owns many of the amenities as well. CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE 7 CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE Annual events that are worth from the Valle de Guadalupe wine year long. The beaches get very making a trip to Rosarito for? region if you want to get in some crowded on the weekends during The Rosarito Art Fest at the wine tasting. the summer and, because it’s on beginning of every summer is a the coast, Rosarito gets “May Gray” personal favorite. Rosarito just had Insider tip about visiting and “June Gloom” the same way Rosarito? I’ll give you three! 1. it’s first beer fest with tons of local that San Diego does. Early fall is One of the best wineries in Baja Baja craft beers, food and live my favorite time of year because isn’t in the Valle de Guadalupe – music which was really fun and there are fewer crowds and the it’s in Rosarito. If you love wine, hopefully an event that will be weather is perfect. happening again in the future. don’t go to Rosarito without visiting Puerto Nuevo has a lobster fest Claudius Winery. They even have Any good shopping? There’s a each fall to kick off lobster season. wine class they offer on weekends little open-air market with stalls on over the course of a few months if the main street in town, Benito Are there internet cafes or wifi you’re a true oenophile. At the end Juarez, where you can find typical spots in town? Most of the major of the class, you’ll have made 300 Mexican souvenirs like blankets, hotels and restaurants have wifi bottle of your own wine! knick knacks, art and jewelry. As and many of the restaurants will (www.claudiusvino.com) 2. If you you’re heading out of town to the give you their wifi password if you love a good bargain, there’s a south on the free road, there’s a just ask for it. Cinépolis movie theater in the large mile or so of curios shops and Pabellón on the north side of town artisans making beautiful ironwork Things people shouldn’t visit where you can go see a movie for and wood furniture. Calimax and Rosarito without seeing or under $3 a ticket. Just make sure Comercial Mexicana are great for doing? You have to go to Puerto that you’re looking for movies with picking up groceries. Baja Produce Nuevo for lobster (it’s fried and “SUB” behind the title so that you’re is a cute little shop with lots of local served with rice, beans and tortillas getting a movie in English (with produce, cheeses and artisan – delicious!). If you love seafood, Spanish subtitles). 3. If you don’t snacks. If you enjoy buying art, check out Popotla, just south of have dental care in the U.S., there’s a great artist scene in Baja Studios (where they filmed Rosarito has some really great, Rosarito with lots of talented local Titanic – unfortunately the studio is affordable dentists. They do artists. no longer open for studio tours as it everything from teeth cleaning to was in the past). It’s a grungy little root canals and jaw surgeries for a The best "local spot" in town? fishing village, but you can walk fraction of the price in the U.S. I go There’s a large community of ex- along the beach to see the fresh to Dr. Avila’s office where I get my pats living in Rosarito, so there are catches of the day and stop into teeth cleaned (by an actual dentist, a number of gringo hangouts. any of the little restaurants to have no less) for just $40. They’ll even Renee’s Sports Bar and Splash them serve you up fresh seafood. restaurant are two popular ones. give you a fast pass to get you Have a drink at the Rosarito Beach The invite-only Mi Casa Supper expedited crossing at the San Hotel (I prefer the Beachcomber Club, recently opened a new Ysidro border. Bar at sunset time where you can restaurant space that’s now open enjoy views overlooking the beach What’s the best time of year to to the public so that even visitors and pier). If you have an extra day, visit? Because the weather is so can stop by to enjoy drinks and you’re only an hour and a half or so temperate, it’s pleasant to visit all appetizers.

For more on Rosarito, visit the Discover Baja Rosarito City Guide! bit.ly/ZeMjRP

8 The Spanish Missions on the California Peninsula: #27, Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (1834-1840)

Guadalupe mission ruins photo by David Kier, in 2012. By David Kier the resident missionary there since the war. The few remaining 1809. Caballero was one of just mission padres had to survive on Ojá Coñúrr (Painted Rock) was the five missionaries in northern Baja what they could raise or from the native Indian name for the location California that year. In 1819, two trading of goods with foreigners. of the final mission in both Baja more Dominicans arrived in Baja Padre Caballero was able to and Alta California. Mexico had California and Felix Caballero was succeed at Mission El Descanso, won its independence from Spain placed in charge of Mission Santa which he re-founded in 1830. in 1821. Dominican Padre Felix Catalina from 1819 to 1822. 1822 Some potentially rich farmlands Caballero named this new mission was a year of major events for the were just southeast in a valley in honor Mexico’s patron saint, people of Baja California. They called San Marcos. Caballero was Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. learned that Spain had lost Mexico anxious to develop the valley. The founding date has been given after 11 years of war and they Chief Jatiñil from Nejí, who helped as June 25, 1834. The mission is were to pledge their allegiance to Caballero build the new church at sometimes called Guadalupe del the new Mexican Empire. Also in El Descanso, also helped him Norte to differentiate it from the 1822, Chilean ships and soldiers, construct another new mission in Jesuit founded Mission Guadalupe led by English Admiral Thomas this valley. Guadalupe, like the (1720-1795), in southern Baja Cochrane, attacked San José del new church at El Descanso, was California. Cabo, Todos Santos, and Loreto, the personal project of Caballero. in an attempted invasion. The Spanish mission program was Padre Caballero arrived in over and while Mexico ordered the northern Baja California in late Mexico’s new emperor, Agustín de missions to be secularized in 1814. The records show he Iturbide, was soon banished by 1833, the law was rescinded for General Santa Anna, and the performed a burial service at the California missions in 1835. young country became a republic. Mission San Vicente on December They could continue operate and The California missions would 15 of that year. In May, 1815, serve the Indians until the mission Caballero was assigned to Mission continue to operate without any was abandoned or the current San Miguel to replace Padre government assistance, as they priest died. had been for several years during Tomás Ahumada, who had been CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE 9 CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE By 1929 the adobe walls of According to the research done by In 1836, some 400 Yuma Indians Mission Guadalupe were already Rev. Albert Nieser, O.P., Caballero attacked Guadalupe but the destroyed by treasure hunters built the mission for newly arriving garrison of soldiers stationed but some of the wall’s stone mainland settlers, and not the there were able to save the foundation was present and mission. More attacks came until Indians. Chief Jatiñil provided help measuring 60 yards on one angle the final one by Caballero’s own for Caballero every year with and 30 yards on the other. Pieces supporter, Chief Jatiñil. He harvesting crops as well as of red floor tiles were inside the revolted against Caballero constructing Caballero’s mission angle. It was reported that broad buildings. Jatiñil also helped because the priest continued to steps led down the slope from Caballero in fighting other Indian force baptism of his tribe and the mission to two cement water 2004 photo by Jack Swords tribes that attacked Mission Santa make them live at the mission. An tanks fed by a spring. Catalina. Jatiñil’s father had told attack in October 1839 was him the land would belong to the reported to have sacked the In recent years, the mission site gente de razon or ‘people of mission, but an eye-witness to has been developed as a reason’ (whites and mixed bloods), the attack gave the date as historical park and includes a and the chief had accepted this February 1840, recorded by museum. It is located in reality. Manuel Clemente Rojo. Jatiñil’s Francisco Zarco (the government goal was to kill Padre Caballero, name for the town of Guadalupe), The Guadalupe mission church but the padre was able to about 1 mile from Highway 3. had two altars and a choir. The persuade María Gracia, an Indian Take the paved side road going mission compound had shops and woman to hide him in the into town from the gas station. In a residence for the priest. mission’s choir. Caballero about a mile, turn left at the cross Caballero made Guadalupe the escaped death and left northern street (where the road ahead administrative center of the Baja California for Mission San becomes divided). The mission northern peninsula missions. The Ignacio in the southern half of the and museum are overlooking the mission sat on a small mesa peninsula. There he began to river valley. overlooking the valley from near acquire property and attempted The missions of Baja California the center-west side. Two miles of to have his Guadalupe mission are both historically colorful and irrigation canals were constructed cattle delivered to him. down both sides of the valley. One intriguing as to their existence. six acre plot, just north of the On the morning of August 3, That such great effort was made mission, was where vegetables 1840, at Mission San Ignacio, in such extreme conditions and fruit were raised. Cattle Caballero said mass and drank illustrates the enthusiasm and seemed to be the chief commodity his daily cup of chocolate. Sharp commitment the missionaries had with nearly 4,915 head reported in stomach pains hit him, as if he for their work in peninsular 1840, the largest of any Dominican were poisoned. Felix Caballero California. The native Indians mission. A letter to Caballero on died a few hours later. The who survived mixed with the May 29 of that year from Don Juan extensive property that Caballero mainlanders and foreigners who de Jesús Ozio however claims the had would cause government came to the peninsula. The tribes count was only 1,915. officials in Baja California to in the north were better able to frown upon the Dominicans who survive the changes and live remained. The missions were in today in villages on the Colorado decline, most of the Indians were River delta, and near the gone and the mission churches missions of Santa Catalina and often continued to serve the Guadalupe. newly arriving mainlanders. Dominicans were replaced by Thank you for your interest in the parish priests. The last California old missions of Baja California and please see additional mission to close was Santo mission photos and information Tomás, in 1849. The last on our Facebook page: Dominicans left Baja California, from La Paz, in 1855. http://facebook.com/oldmissions and my web site: http://vivabaja.com/bajamissons . Guadalupe and vicinity as drawn by Peveril Meigs in 1934. David Kier is co-author of ‘The Old Missions of Baja & Alta California, 1697-1834’. The book is available for purchase at the DBTC offices (call 800-727-2252). You can follow along with the series to learn about the history of all of the Baja California missions on the DBTC blog and in future newsletters. 10 DBTC staff Peninsula Picks: TACO STANDS No one does tacos like Baja. Whether it’s carne asada, battered fish tacos, tripa, or shrimp, load it up “con todo” and we’re happy campers. Here are some of our favorites places to stop for the tasty treat when we’re on the peninsula.

STAFF MEMBER: Hugh PICK: El Trailero in Ensenada WHY: One of Ensenada’s best taco stands is not in Ensenada, but a few miles north of town in El Sauzal. Look for the big red sign on the east side of the Mex 1 identifying Taquería El Trailero. Always busy with locals, you’ll find Trailero clean with good service and great “street fare.” The carne asada (off the grill), adobada (off the spit), shrimp and fish tacos are large and muy sabroso. Reward yourself on your next trip down to Ensenada or on the way back.

STAFF MEMBER: Monica PICK: Las Brisas Taquería in Ensenada WHY: Las Brisas is the best for fresh and flavorful tacos, with good service and a friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss it when you’re in Ensenada!

STAFF MEMBER: Carol PICK: Tony’s in Guerrero Negro WHY: Tony's Taco truck in Guerrero Negro. I start yearning STAFF MEMBER: Jen for Tony's taco as soon as we get PICK: Tito’s Mariscos in Rosarito to Cataviña. Made while you wait, WHY: When it comes to taco these are the freshest and best stands, there’s nothing that beats shrimp tacos in the world. Tony Tito’s Mariscos in Rosarito. also serves fish tacos. Toppings Nothing more than a large blue line the front of the truck and cold tent near the side of the freeway drinks are available. A trip to (right off of the toll road on the Guerrero Negro is not complete north side of town across from without a visit to Tony's---just past Comercial Mexicana), this is a Malarrimo Hotel on the north side true local’s favorite. Their of the main road. specialty is fish tacos. For 10 pesos (that’s less than $0.80 USD) you get a fresh, delicious STAFF MEMBER: Maythé and gigantic taco. It’s no wonder PICK: Shrimp tacos at Las that this place is always busy. I Cañadas eat here at least once a week and WHY: When you’re spending the everything on their extensive day with family on the zip lines, menu is great. Other favorites water slides and horseback riding include the pulpo (octopus) tacos, at Las Cañadas, nothing beats the caldo de siete mares and the stopping for a shrimp taco to refuel carne asada fries. for more activities. 11 Explore the Peninsula with Baja Author Graham Mackintosh!

Join famous Baja author Graham TRIP ITINERARY: Day 1: Departure from San Diego 6am, lunch Mackintosh (“Into a Desert Place,” at Desert Inn Cataviña, visit local cave “Journey with a Baja Burro,” “Marooned paintings, dinner Cataviña Day 2: 7am breakfast in Cataviña, depart 8am with Very Little Beer,” Nearer My Dog to for Guerrero Negro, stop at Baja berrendo Thee”) on this Baja Custom Tours (prong horn antelope) sanctuary, check in at special trip to see the whales, the Sea of motel, visit light house and marshlands, dinner at Mario’s Palapa Cortez, and the mountains of San Pedro Day 3: 7am breakfast, drive to Ojo de Liebre de Mártir. Share close encounters with lagoon for 2 hour whale tour – inner lagoon, lunch at Tony’s Tacos, break, visit Guerrero the Gray Whales in Scammon’s Lagoon, Negro lagoon beach, special dinner at Mario’s stories and locations in Graham’s Baja Day 4: Check out of rooms, 7am breakfast, books, and a great time with friends in bus tour to outer lagoon with Mario’s through salt plant, 3 hour whale tour outer lagoon with this all-inclusive 7 day/6 night tour. sack lunch, drive to Bahia de Los Angeles, check in Costa del Sol motel, visit Bahia There are three dates for this trip: Natural History Museo, Seafood extravaganza January 28 – February 3, 2015 dinner! February 10 – February 16, 2015 Day 5: 8am breakfast, boat tour of bay and March 18 – March 24, 2015 islands, lunch on beach, dinner at Casa Essary Day 6: Depart Bahia de Los Angeles at 7am 7 days, 6 nights $1,395 all-inclusive, double occupancy. after breakfast, tacos in Vincente Guerrero, drive to Meling Ranch, tour to top of For questions, or to reserve your spot, contact mountains, family style dinner Day 7: Depart Meling Ranch at 8am after Discover Baja at 800-727-2252 or breakfast, torta lunch in El Sauzal, wine tasting [email protected] in Valle de Guadalupe (Las Nubes), cross

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