November 2019

FROM YOUR OWN CORRESPONDENTS

AN UPDATE FROM CORNWALL ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY’S AREA REPRESENTATIVES

Any opinions or errors in these articles are those of the authors and must not be assumed to be those of Cornwall Archaeological Society.

NOVEMBER 2019

Issue 36

THIS MONTH’S FEATURES

 GWITHIAN SURPRISE!  ROW IN THE FAR EAST  AQUEDUCT INVESTIGATIONS  HELP SAVE THIS HISTORIC BOUNDARY MARKER  ALL’S WELL IN BODMIN

GWITHIAN SURPRISE!

We begin this month with explosive revelations from Adrian Rodda.

The explosives works at Upton Towans, which operated from 1889 to 1920, has been scheduled. https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1463206 . Few visitors walking the coast path between Gwithian and Hayle across the dunes realise that they are not in a natural landscape. The sand dunes had been shaped and piled to accommodate storage houses for dynamite, gun cotton or nitro-glycerine. People who walk away or parallel to the coast path discover level paths, sometimes with traces of cinders on them. These were the tram tracks laid to connect the store houses with the factory further inland. Just follow the tracks to discover the isolated magazines and remains of the nitric acid works and the sulphuric acid factory. It is difficult to imagine now that dangerous acids were carried by gravity down overhead launders to mix together to make dynamite. The sticks were made of a special clay soaked in the explosive mixture and cut and wrapped by women working in threes in houses which had been surrounded by high sand piles so that if there were an explosion the force would go upwards. Sources and texts are referenced in the listing website above. Well worth a read before you visit.

The sand truck from the cliff top Photo: Adrian Rodda

The sand truck from the beach below Photo: Adrian Rodda

Not included in the schedule are the remains of another industry located very close to the car park at Gwithian. When South Crofty mine operated the Red River which flowed through it and along the valley from Tuckingmill to Godrevy was red with mineral bearing silt. Several tin streams along the valley took out as much tin as they could, but much escaped

their round frames and buddles and was spread by the tides across the beach. A tin stream works was built at the mouth of the river, commemorated in the name of the pub which replaced it, “The Sandsifter”, now renamed “The Rockpool”. The Cornish Gold Centre in the Portreath valley has preserved the tin stream machinery there in its own museum. King Edward Mine Museum at Troon near Camborne has working buddles and round frames too.

An isolated dynamite storage magazine with sand piled around it Photo: Adrian Rodda

The site of the series of wooden huts where the dynamite was rolled, wrapped and boxed Photo: Adrian Rodda

The beach was so polluted that no-one would sit there or surf in its shallows until about 1985 after the river had been cleaned up. Different attempts were made to get tin out of the beach sand. The remains of one attempt is barely 150 m from the car park. There is the concrete stub of a tower which hoisted buckets of sand to be “flown” across the beach on wires supported by regular pylons to be deposited in a great silo at the mouth of the river at Godrevy. If you walk below the cliff and look up you will have the surprising view of a mine truck on a set of rails projecting precariously from the cliff. It is in the second “bay” after the lifeguard hut walking towards Hayle. How much longer it can remain suspended in the eroding cliff is anyone’s guess, so get there soon!

Text and photographs: Adrian Rodda.

ROW IN THE FAR EAST

No, this isn’t about tensions in the Korean peninsula but is to do with a stone-row close to the border with Devon. Area Rep Peter Crispin has been investigating stones possibly surviving from a stone-row in Lezant parish. The red dot in the following map extract from Cornwall Council’s superb mapping website (https://www.cornwall.gov.uk/community-and- living/mapping/) shows a record of a stone-row on the edge of Greystone Quarry. The names Greystone Farm, Greystone Cottage and Longstone Plantation may offer further clues about stones with archaeological significance.

Peter was alerted by a group of local residents to the existence of stones that they thought might be survivals of a stone-row. A quick check with the Heritage Gateway entry on Historic Environment Record established this information about the row:

A stone row at Longstone consisting of three surviving … in fields named as 'Longstone Field' on the Tithe Map … The stones were destroyed in 1981 when the area was bulldozed …They are visible on air photographs … and were plotted as part of the NMP [National Mapping Programme]. https://www.heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=MCO18495&resourceID=1020

Peter then visited the site to meet the locals and see the evidence himself, which he did from outside the perimeter fence. They explained that this was not an enquiry solely to satisfy their curiosity. Greystone Quarry has submitted plans for expansion which might mean that the stones would be lost. Lezant Parish Council shares these concerns and has made efforts to contact the quarry. It was necessary to assess if the surviving stones are part of the original row and if so, what could be done to protect them. Stopping the expansion of the quarry would be unlikely but removing the stones and re-erecting them in a safer place locally could be an alternative. Peter has explained that the situation became even more intriguing when local residents ‘spotted further stones in the lane hedgerow close to the entrance to Greystone Farm that they felt may possibly also be part of the former stone alignment.’

It was not clear if the stones found on the quarry edge had been moved from their original position or if they were indeed from the row. Peter’s next move was to make contact with local professional archaeologists and to notify the Historic Environment Team, now based at Kresen Kernow. Luckily Hannah Curnow (Historic Environment Record Assistant) was able to find evidence, including aerial photos, and Ann Reynolds (Cornwall Council Senior Archaeologist, Countryside Advice) gave further advice on the complex matter of re-siting.

One of the stones near Greystones

Quarry Photo: Peter Crispin

The stones are largely quartz – is that significant? Photo: Peter Crispin

One of the stones near Greystones Farm Photo: Peter Crispin

Another stone near Greystones Farm Photo: Peter Crispin

This stone has seen use as a gatepost Photo: Peter Crispin

It rather looks as if all of the stones, including those in a hedge near Greystones Farm have been moved from their original position. For the moment, the matter is with local residents and the parish council. However, it is an excellent example of the value of having the CAS network of Area Representatives. Peter’s persistence has helped enormously in providing concerned locals with the evidence and advice that they will need. But will the stones be re- sited? How will this fascinating story end? We will have to see.

AQUEDUCT INVESTIGATIONS

Cornwall Heritage Trust has recently begun to investigate the inner structure of the Treffry viaduct and aqueduct in Luxulyan Valley (actually it is partly in Lanlivery parish). Historic England has greatly assisted through the provision of a grant. Not only is the structure a Scheduled Monument but it lies within the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape World Heritage Site. It was opened in 1842 not only to carry J.T. Treffry’s horse-drawn tramway, but also has an aqueduct channel through which the Carmears leat flowed until recently, when leaks meant that it had to be stopped. Originally this leat provided the power needed to haul trucks up and down an incline plane which was linked to the Par Canal. The tramway was made largely redundant by the Cornwall Minerals Railway in 1874. The water was used for a while in a china stone mill and subsequently to help power a hydro-electricity turbine at Ponts Mill. Although the structure is remarkable, it was only one

component of a complex transport and water-power system (tramway, incline plane, canal and Par harbour, plus the leat).

Lifting the stones Photo: Ann Preston-Jones

John Smith, Vice-President of Cornwall Heritage Trust, and the expert on the archaeology of the Valley, was on hand to see the work (John’s 1988 report on the Valley can be obtained free from: http://map.cornwall.gov.uk/reports_event_record/1988/1988R005.pdf)).

John Smith inspects the aqueduct

Photo: Ann Preston-Jones 9

Although the leat has been shut down recent heavy rainfall has allowed water to get into the chamber. The inspection team had to bale much of this out with buckets. Photo: Ann Preston-Jones

Massive granite blocks were used to construct the structure. The teams will assess their condition and position. Photo: Ann Preston-Jones 10

Investigations in 2012 suggested some base-stones may have slumped. The accumulation of silt and the historic use of cement by the clay industry will need to be dealt with. Photo: Ann Preston-Jones

The whole enterprise is being supervised by an informed local resident Photo: Ann Preston-Jones

Earlier in the year a team of volunteers led by Dick Cole and Belinda Body of Cornwall Heritage Trust cleared vegetation from the crib hut near the south-eastern end of the viaduct.

Many local people had not realised the crib-hut existed before the clearance took place Photo: Ann Preston-Jones

News and photographs of this investigation (and information about all of its properties) can be found on Cornwall Heritage Trust’s lavish website: http://www.cornwallheritagetrust.org/investigatory-works-at-treffry-viaduct-have-started/

HELP SAVE THIS HISTORIC BOUNDARY MARKER

Ian Thompson of the Milestone Society (https://www.milestonesociety.co.uk/) has recently been contacted by Linda King, a local archaeology enthusiast, about an imperilled boundary marker near Harvey Towans at Hayle. Not only is coastal erosion placing this historic feature in jeopardy but there is a risk to anyone on the beach below should it be undermined further. Linda would like to see it moved a small distance inland and invites those who share her concern to contact Cornwall Council.

And here it is:

Photo: Linda King

OK, it’s not a chambered tomb, a picturesque castle, let alone a ziggurat. But don’t be fooled by its functional, unassuming appearance; this is a stone that tells a story. It was put up because of a bitter territorial dispute. As Linda explains, ‘The territorial disputes between the Cornish Copper Company and Harvey’s of Hayle in the nineteenth century are legendary. Granite boundary posts were set up to try to define who owned what’.

Heritage on the edge – literally! Photo: Linda King

Linda has provided this description: ‘The post, approximately one metre tall, rectangular in cross-section and carved with a large incised H for Harvey, stands at SW 55705 38991, near the junction of the Coast Path designated 102/29/3 and 102/29/2 with the footpath to Phillack designated 102/31/4. All three paths are Gold category. The boundary stone is recorded on Cornwall Council’s Historic Environment Register (HER) as MCO58276.’

Here’s how we can all help. Cornwall Council’s website allows the public to report footpath issues (remember: features on the route of a path are part of the experience of walking that way). What follows are the writer’s personal suggestions for responses to the questions on the online form.

1. Go to: https://www.cornwall.gov.uk/environment-and-planning/countryside/public-rights-of- way/.

2. The form is very clear but, if it helps, here are suggested responses:

Selected: Signs and Lines as the type of issue;

Choose: Public Footpath;

Location: SW 55705 38991, near the junction of the Coast Path designated 102/29/3 and 102/29/2 with the footpath to Phillack designated 102/31/4;

Description of issue: The boundary stone is recorded on Cornwall Council’s Historic Environment Register (HER) as MCO58276. It is not listed. We would like to propose that, as part of the maintenance programme for this part of the North Cornwall Coast Path, the Harvey’s of Hayle Boundary Stone is recovered from its exposed and dangerous location and moved back from the cliff edge a few metres to stand beside the North Cornwall Coast Path near its junction with the footpath to Phillack. This would not affect its meaning in the landscape as a boundary marker, but would save it from falling down the cliff and the accompanying risk to anyone on the beach below. The re-sited boundary post would provide a focus of interest at this point on the Long Distance Path, offering the opportunity to tell something of the story of Henry Harvey, before the westbound walker follows the Coast Path to Hayle itself. I commend this proposal to you and would ask for your comments and support.

Parish: Hayle

Footpath number: 102/29/3 & 102/29/2 (no space in box for ‘and’!) Or just put 102/9

How long has the issue been at this location? Recent coastal erosion has caused this.

ALL’S WELL IN BODMIN

Ancient wells, especially ‘holy’ ones, exert a fascination even in our very secular times. But we often overlook the fact that not many generations ago they would have been the main source of drinking water, for good or ill. Bodmin has some wonderful some examples which are clearly loved by local people. Visiting the wells shown below affords a rewarding, and level walk, as well as revealing glimpses into the town’s rich past.

This little tour starts in the east.

St Petroc’s Well (SX 0757 6670)

The Historic Environment Record records that it was first mentioned as St Guron’s well in 1695 but at some unknown date the dedication changed. The well may have medieval origins but the well-house (now largely submerged) may have been built from priory stones (the Priory was dissolved in 1539).

St Guron’s well, St Petroc’s churchyard (SX 0726 6703)

There is a beautiful carved panel above the door:

The well-house is thought to date from the 16th century and was restored in Victorian times, as the dedication stone shows:

Near the entrance to the churchyard, a little to the west, water issues into a granite basin. The well-house can be glimpsed in the background of the next photo:

The water issuing from the gargoyles was still being thirstily consumed by printers in the nearby Cornish Guardian printing works as late as the 1970s. They referred to it as ‘bone- water’.

Many of Bodmin’s wells have these excellent information plaques:

Eye-Water spring/well, Bell Lane, Bodmin (SX 0708 6707)

This is sometimes called Bree-Shute Well. It may date back to medieval times but the current structure dates from the 18th century. There is a foundation stone, dated 1700, dedicated to ‘D/ GEORGE/ DEMOUNTFRYART/ MAYOR’.

Once again, information is provided:

Cock’s Well (SX 06997 67144)

This well has a tragic history yet isn’t on the Historic Environment Record, although it is hoped that it will be soon.

Its story is told here:

Scarlett’s Well (SX 0566 6752)

This is thought to be named after the Scarlett family which was recorded in the 14th century. According to the Heritage Gateway entry:

Carew, c1600 however, is the first person to record it. He states that reports of its "virtue for healing all diseases" brought people flocking; but neighbourhood justices "forbade the report, sequestered the spring, and suppressed the miracle" … In 1894, Quiller-Couch noted that a few very old devotees still visited the spring for a drink or an eye-bath.

Unfortunately nothing of the structure survives; however Bodmin Old Cornwall Society refurbished it in 1995. Perhaps it is this group that has provided these excellent plaques? Whoever has done so deserves a vote of thanks.

This is Scarlett’s well now. We can only guess at what it looked like in the medieval period.

Area Representatives would love to hear from fellow CAS members, and the general public, about any feature of the historic environment in their parishes, whether a new discovery, something causing concern, or even just to answer queries. If you have any concerns, or new information, about any archaeological feature, please contact the Area Representative for the parish. If you do not know who that is, just look at the inside back cover of the latest journal, Cornish Archaeology 56, or send an email to [email protected] .

Roger Smith, 7th December 2019