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Discover French-Speaking Louisiana: a Brief Guide To DISCOVER FRENCH-SPEAKING LOUISIANA: A BRIEF GUIDE TO CREATING AN "ACADIANA ADVENTURE TOUR" Dallas and Lafayette, Louisiana, the heart started Melrose Plantation with the help of November 4-10, 1999 is the week of La Fête de la Francophonie, a national initia- of Cajun Country. Teachers coming from her sons, growing indigo and tobacco (Mar- tive sponsored by the AATF to increase the the north or west into Louisiana will want to tin 1990). include Natichitoches on their itineraries for At the turn of the 20th century, Melrose visibility and understanding of the Franco- phone world. The Fête Committee, chaired its history, cuisine, and considerable charm. became a retreat for artists and writers, in- by Dr. Margot Steinhart and Dr. Jacki Tho- Day One cluding Lyle Saxon, Caroline Dorman, and François Mignon. Their cook, Clementine mas, is preparing a comprehensive dossier Natchitoches, a delightful little town of materials that can be used in classes to nestled on the tranquil Cane River in East- Hunter, discovered her considerable talents celebrate la Fête. ern Louisiana, has bragging rights to quite as a primitive painter and became Melrose's most famous artist. Some of her best works Despite the fact that la Francophonie has a few things considering its size. Located in receved increased attention in French lan- the heart of the Natchitoches Parish, are on display at Melrose's "Africa House" guage textbooks, many students are not Natchitoches (pronounced NACK-uh-tush) today. quite sure of the scope l'espace francophone is Louisiana's oldest town. Not only that, it Days Two and Three entails. Some are even unaware of the pock- has the additional distinction of being the The second and third days of this tour ets of French culture and language present oldest permanent European settlement in are spent in the area of Lafayette and St. in the United States. the entire Louisiana Purchase Territory (Mar- Martinville, the heart and soul of Cajun coun- For many French language educators, tin 1990). try. Lafayette was originally named the prospect of taking students to a Fran- Natchitoches has long been known for Vermillionville and later renamed in honor cophone country in Africa or Asia is rather its meat pies. It gained national attention a of the French General Lafayette. Lafayette remote. France and Quebec have long been few years ago as the location for the movie and its environs were settled by French the foreign study and travel destinations of Steel Magnolias. It is also the setting for Acadians fleeing New Brunswick and Nova choice. However, it is possible to immerse the popular "Christmas Festival of Lights" Scotia in 1755. one's students in la Francophonie without which is shown in the film. The day begins with a visit to the leaving the United States. It is as close as Meat pies were popular in this region of Lafayette museum. It was the home of Louisiana, home to the rich culture of the Louisiana long before the Civil War. Street Alexandre Mouton, Louisiana's first Demo- Acadians or "Cajuns." vendors selling "hotta meat pies!" were a cratic governor. This wonderful old house I have taken three groups of Mountain common scene on city streets for years. Al- is filled with antiques, Civil War relics, and View Community College faculty, staff, and though the vendors are now a memory of richly brocaded Mardi Gras costumes. Don't students on five-day excursions into the the past, meat pies are still a staple of the miss the tour. heart of Louisiana's Cajun country. These locals' diet. One of Natchitoches' most popu- After visiting the museum, go to the St. trips have been a popular offering at my lar purveyors of meat pies, James Laysonne, John's Cathedral at 914 St. John Street. St. campus, due in part to the $300 price tag. has been cranking out his delicious creations John's dates from the late 19th century. It My students are fascinated by the history for more than 25 years in his restaurant of features Dutch Romanesque architecture. of the French-speaking Cajuns. They are the same name, Laysonne's Meat Pie The cemetery, with its above-ground burial also charmed by the hospitality and friendly Kitchen. vaults, is worth a visit as well. The famed nature of the people they meet. Students Mr. Laysonne is a colorful character. He 500-year-old live oak tree near the Cathe- do have a chance to speak French during will be happy to come to your table at the dral spreads its leafy foliage over what their five days, especially in the Lafayette end of your meal and tell you about his love seems to be an entire city block. This tree area, although they often have difficulty un- of cooking. Legend has it he sleeps on a is truly a wonder of nature in its grandeur. It derstanding the distinctive Cajun accent. I cot in his kitchen, although when we were makes a perfect photo stop. offer this trip at our campus because it is once lucky enough to be invited into the The afternoon its divided between a visit short, fairly easy to organize, affordable for kitchen for a quick personal tour, the famous to the Acadiana Village and a swamp tour even budget-conscious students, and genu- cot was nowhere in sight. at McGee's Landing. The Acadiana Village inely enjoyable! Students will be reluctant to leave the is a re-creation of Acadian life of the 19th I normally conduct these trips in May at charm and quiet of Natchitoches, but there century. This is also a "must see" while in the end of the spring semester. It is pos- is much more to be discovered nearby. Lafayette. sible to visit Louisiana during spring or Namely, the Melrose Plantation, home of No visit to southern Louisiana would be Christmas break. However, be advised that one truly remarkable Marie-Thérèse complete without an excursion into the wilds May is usually a drier month which makes Coincoin. of the Atchafalaya River Basin. McGee's travel more enjoyable. I do not recommend Marie-Thérèse was a slave (born 1742) Landing offers a two-hour "swamp tour" of visiting the area with students during Mardi whose beauty caught the attention of a the watery domain of alligators, nutria, Gras for obvious reasons. Frenchman named Claude Thomas Pierre minks, opossums, otters, and muskrats. Because Louisiana is a neighbor of Metoyer. The two lived together for 25 years Moss-covered oak trees create an eerie set- Texas, bus transportation is the most logi- and had no fewer than 10 children. Metoyer ting for a Stephen King novel, while an amaz- cal mode of travel for my groups. Teachers gave Marie-Thérèse her freedom and a ing variety of plants, such as lotus pads and living more than eight to twelve hours away large amount of property (30,000 acres, wild hibiscus, cover large areas of surface might consider flying into New Orleans, hir- which was recorded in the name of her son). water. Homegrown tour guides keep visi- ing a passenger bus for land travel, and re- She went on to become the matriarch of tors laughing throughout the tour with thickly versing the tour order. her family and founder of a large colony of accented "Boudreau and Thibodeau" jokes. Natchitoches is the first venue of the tour people whose descendants still live along The evening is reserved for dinner and as it is a natural stopping point between the Cane River today. Marie-Thérèse dancing at Randol's Cajun Restaurant and Dance Hall. The menu, complete with of- After Shadows, we proceed to Avery Is- Jazz Band entertain guests the duration of ferings of crawfish and dirty rice, is just land, the home of the world-famous the two-hour tour. After dinner, spend the above average. The lively chank-a-chank McIlhenny Tabasco Sauce. First, tour the remainder of the evening on the outdoor music is the reason to search out Randol's. Tabasco factory. While tourists can't get too decks taking in the great views of the river As soon as the band strikes up, entire fami- close to the factory floor (one is obliged to and New Orleans skyline or watching the lies get out on the dance floor—babies in walk along an elevated, glassed-in area riverboat's huge paddle-wheel beat up froth. mothers' arms, grandparents with grandchil- above the production floor), there is a well- This outing is the most expensive of the five- dren. They dance waltzes and a fast Cajun stocked gift shop sporting a wide array of day tour and runs approximately $42.50 per two-step that makes one nearly dizzy just Tabasco products. person, but group rates are available, and it to watch. My students love Randol's. They Next, visit the extensive jungle Gardens is worth every penny. are always disappointed when closing time which comprise 250 acres of beautiful Day Five comes. sculpted gardens, exotic trees, and ponds. This is our last tour day. Due to the eight- St. Martinville is a delightful, lazy little It is also the home of "Bird City," a large hour drive from New Orleans to Dallas, the town steeped in Acadian history. It was once egret rookery providing shelter to as many day begins with a 6:30 a.m. hotel departure. known as "Le Petit Paris" because it served as 20,000 white egrets and other migratory Our route is northwest along the old River as a refuge for French aristocrats fleeing water birds.
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