Applecross Bay Pier Archaeological Evaluation
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Applecross Bay Pier Archaeological Evaluation October 12th to 20th 2013 Nick Goldthorpe and Catherine Dagg for THE APPLECROSS TRUST Applecross Bay Pier: Archaeological Evaluation Site Name Applecross Bay Pier Site Ref. HER MHG32165 and MHG35936 Canmore ID. 159050 Location NG 71211 44650 Nature of work Desk based evaluation, removal of overburden, trial trenching Date 20.10.13 Client Applecross Trust OASIS ref Catherin2-165292 Fig 1. Location of Applecross Bay pier Table of Contents 1.0 Executive Summary 2.0 Introduction 2.1 Site Location 2.2 Site History 2.2.1 Archaeological Background 2.2.2 Historical Background 2.3 Present State 3.0 Objectives 4.0 Methodology 5.0 Results 6.0 Conclusions and Recommendations ILLUSTRATIONS 1: Location plan. 2: Area of investigation highlighted. 3: Admiralty Chart 1850 4: 1st edition Ordnance Survey map 1875 5: Undated Postcard ‘Discharging Coals at Applecross’ 6. Photograph: Puffer and Landrover 1950s 7. Photograph: ‘Tin Tack’ 1960s 8. John R Hume 1999: Mains of Applecross Pier 9. Pier north east face before removal of shingle 10. Breakwater, south west side of pier 11. Beacon: stump of pole set to north of pier end 12. Location of Trenches 13. Pier wall partially exposed, showing extent of material built up against the wall 14. Upper section of pier wall, with vertically set capstones15. Lower section of pier walling, with large cobbles and mix of stone types 16. Breakwater, with exposed rubble fill of structure on left 17. Datum, benchmark carved onto east face of now freestanding stone 18. Pier profile, with pier wall face on right, banked breakwater on left 19. Trackway: exposed kerbstones on north east facing edge 20. Trench 3: South facing section 21. South west facing side of trackway defined by banked cobbles 22. Trench 4: Plan showing relationship of slipway to track edge and rubble bank. Shaded stones are limestone 23. Trench 4. Slipway on right and kerbed edge of trackway on left. Rubble bank on which the trackway is built exposed between the two. APPENDICES Appendix 1: Extracts from Highland Historic Environment Policy Appendix 2: Bibliography and sources Applecross Bay Pier: Archaeological Evaluation 1.0 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report covers an archaeological investigation of a 19th century pier and its immediate surrounds, consisting of desk-based evaluation, removal of overburden and trial trenching. The pier walling was found to be in good condition and useful information about the date of construction and usage of the pier was acquired from the trial trenching The work was carried out in order to inform decisions about development of the pier area. It was commissioned by the Applecross Trust for the ALPS Gateway project. The work was undertaken in October 2013 by Catherine Dagg, BA, AIfA and Nick Goldthorpe, and was restricted to the immediate vicinity of the pier and track way avoiding any contact with the salt marsh adjacent. The evaluation report will primarily be used by all interested parties in order to design a new pier, access and car parking area for use in removing timber by boat. It will be submitted to Highland Council as part of any planning application for the project. Copies of the report will be presented to Applecross Heritage Centre, the Highland Historic Environment and RCAHMS Canmore Further work: options for further work are considered, depending on the development of the project design. Further recording in advance of destruction of the pier may be required, and there may be the option of stabilising or renovating the existing structure as a heritage feature and public amenity 2.0 INTRODUCTION 2.1 Site Location The area covered by this evaluation consists of the pier, extending some 70m NNE into the intertidal zone of Applecross Bay, the access track from the public road to the pier end and an area to the east of this track. The site is bounded to the west by a stream. This area is located at the south end of Applecross Bay at the road junction of Applecross South, the Bealach and the North Coast roads. The trackway forms a continuation of the Bealach road. Fig. 2 Area of Evaluation: Plan from Highland HER mapping 2.2 Site History 2.2.1 Archaeological Background The pier is recorded on the Highland Historic Environment Record as follows: MHG32165 Pier, Applecross Grid Reference: NG 71211 44650 Map Sheet: NG74SW Civil Parish: APPLECROSS Geographical Area: ROSS AND CROMARTY No historical information is given within this entry, although it is noted (HAW 5/2003) that the pier is starting to deteriorate badly Also: MHG35936 Mains of Applecross, Pier This entry created automatically by NMRS Register Utility The pier is recorded on RCAHMS Canmore, ID 159050, again with no further information, although three recent aerial photographs and one photograph dating to around 1970 are included. The pier and surrounding area have not previously been covered by any archaeological investigations. 2.2.2 Historical Background There is no record of a pier at this location before 1850, although this omission can not be taken as evidence that a pier did not exist before this date. The First Statistical Account, written in 1792, shows the importance of boats to the local economy, both for fishing and for the import and export of goods: Each principal farmer hath generally a boat of his own, and among the lower class, either two, three, or four, make a joint purchase, according as their circumstances will permit. There are, besides, five vessels, of from 20 to 40 tons, employed in the fishing, one of which belongs to a fishing company, founded at a considerable expense, by Mr McKenzie of Firdon, one of the heritors of this parish. The patriotic exertions of this gentleman merit much praise, and as such an establishment, by affording a ready market and an example for improvement to our fishers, doth naturally quicken and improve their industry, the public is interested in its success.... Herring, packed for home consumption, give from 11s. to 15s. the barrel, but, if repacked for exportation, 4 of these barrels go to make up 3. Cod and ling are sold, either by the dozen, or by the ton; when by the dozen, the price depends on the size of the fish, if by the ton, it fetches from 12L. to 15L. Sterling. Oban and Greenock are the markets most commonly frequented. Kelp, prior to the American war, sold at 3L.10s. the ton; the price has since been fluctuating, nearly between 5L. 5s. and 4L. 15s. There will be about 50 tons annually brought to market. A greater quantity could be manufactured, but a considerable portion of the ware is appropriated for manure to the different farms. It may not be improper to observe that, close to the harbour of Poldown, there is a shelly sand, which, when used with discretion, not only meliorates the ground for corn, but after it is laid on, introduces, for a few years, excellent crops of white and red clover. Meal, and all other articles (excepting these now specified), which either the necessities or conveniencies of life require, are imported into this parish. It is assumed that at this date the fishing boats unloaded their catches on the beach and were pulled up directly onto the foreshore. Between the writing of the first and second Statistical Accounts there were major social upheavals in Applecross, with many of the townships cleared and the inhabitants encouraged to take up fishing on a more commercial basis. The row of cottages known as the Street would have housed fishing families as well as farm workers and many crofters were also fishermen, but the foreshore below the Street would have afforded little shelter and it is unlikely boats would have been pulled up here. The 2nd Statistical Account, written in 1836, has less to say about fishing: They have suffered, also, by the failure of the herring fishing on this coast for several years back... There are about 21 vessels of from eighteen to fifty tons burden, employed in the fishing and coasting trade. It should be noted that this is referring to the entire parish of Applecross, including around Loch Torridon, where most of the herring fishing took place. Although no mention is made of it in the Statistical Account, kelp burning would have continued to be a major economic factor in the first decades of the 19th century. The Gaelic name for the south side of Applecross Bay, Ceann na h’Athan translates as the headland of the kilns, and may be referring to kelp kilns in the vicinity. The 2nd Statistical Account also mentions the importation of materials by sea: it is found cheaper to buy lime from the kilns at Broadford in the Isle of Skye than to be at the expense of burning the stones here’ The first map to show the pier is the Admiralty Chart Southern part of the Sound of Raasay and Inner Sound , dating to 1851-1857. 3. Admiralty Chart, 1851 Reproduced by permission of the Trustees of the National Library of Scotland This appears to show a dogleg shaped pier extending from the road junction, with the line of the foreshore much further back than today. The stream appears to emerge onto the beach immediately below the road bridge and the area of ground later occupied by an enclosed garden to the west of the stream appears as beach. The Admiralty Chart also shows the piers at Milton and Camusterrach. Other piers depicted on Admiralty Charts at this date are for the most part associated with established centres of fishing eg Badachro in Gairloch and Jeantown, Lochcarron, or ferry crossings eg Stromeferry.