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Contents

FORTHCOMING EVENTS

LEAD STORY Deep Freeze Command to Air Guard by Warren Head FEATURE Fish & Seabirds Threatened in by Dillon Burke

NEWS

NATIONAL PROGRAMMES New Zealand Cover: Nezo Era for Deep Freeze Canada Chile Volume 16, No. 1, 1998, Britain Issue No. 163 Italy United States

TOURISM

ANTARCTIC is published quarterly by the New Zealand Antarctic FEATURE Society Inc., ISSN 0003-5327. Editor: Shelley Grell 40 Years Ago, Final Instalment by Margaret Bradshaw Please address all editorial inquiries and contributions to Antarctic Bulletin, P O Box 404, Christchurch or TRIBUTE telephone 03 365 0344, facsimile 03 365 4255, Werner Giggenbach 1937-1997 e-mail [email protected]. FEATURE The Riddle of the Swedish Expedition Part II by D.Yelverton BOOK REVIEW reviewed by Sir Ranulph Fiennes Trial By Ice reviewed by David Harroivfield

GENERAL Hillary Video Series Promotion FORTHCOMING EVENTS mi 28-30 April 1998 - Antarctic Futures Workshop, Christchurch 14-16 May 1998 — Belgica Centennial Symposium, Brussels, Belgium. 25 May - 5 June 1998 — First meeting of the Committee for Environmental Protection, Tromso, Norway. 31 May 1998 — Application deadline for Antarctica New Zealand and Creative New Zealand's 1998/99 artists and media programmes. 21 June 1998 — Exhibition of paintings by Nigel Brown at Government House. Brown was one of three artists and poets selected for last year's Artists to Antarctica Programme. The func tion will be hosted by the Governor General. 29 June -1 July 1998 — Heard Island Workshop at the Australian Antarctic Division. The workshop will review the results of previous studies and discuss the plans for future work during the 1999/2000 summer. 20-31 July, 1998 — SCAR/COMNAP Meetings, Conception, Chile. 5-9 July 1999 — Eight International Symposium on Antarctic Earth Sciences, Victoria University, Wellington.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic LEAD STORY Deep Freeze command to Air Guard

By Warren Head the men and women who had served "with distinction in support of science and peace polar aviation, the new through Operation Deep Freeze Twenty-eightcommander years of Operation a veteran Deep of over the last 42 years" and added Freeze, Colonel Graham Pritchard, that the US Antarctic Programme, never takes anything for granted. under the stewardship of the "You're always careful, you always National Science Foundation, is watch the weather, you watch the embarking boldly into the new condition of the aircraft because it's a millennium, renewing the US very different flying environment," commitment to Antarctica and the he said when interviewed by The city of Christchurch." Press on the transition of command to Ambassador Beeman said the the New York Air National Guard's US Navy has made an unparal 109th Air Mobility Wing. Col leled contribution to the peaceful Pritchard, vice-commander of the pursuit of Antarctic exploration 109th, heads the ANG's Antarctic and science, starting from 1838-42 support unit. when an US Navy expedition led Canterbury skies were blue and the by Lt Charles Wilkes mapped weather scorching in the mid-30s more than 1500kms of Antarctic Celsius on the morning Col coastline. Pritchard's unit took over from the US Another distinguished naval Naval Antarctic Support Unit. Under officer, Lt Matthew Fontaine a blazing sun over the lawns of the Maury, the first superintendent of Antarctic Centre, 20 February 1998, the Naval Observatory in Honour guard at the NASU disestablishment ceremony. NASU was disestablished in a flaw Washington DC was also a strong less and often emotional ceremony. support of Antarctic exploration and the IGY. . . and it was Byrd who, American Ambassador to New science in the mid-19th century, said under the direction of President Zealand, Josiah Beeman paid special the Ambassador. Eisenhower, helped supervise prepa tribute to the character and courage of "Because of a lack of data in the rations for Operation Deep Freeze." high southern latitudes Lt Maury (the "The greatest tribute to the US compiler of "Wind and Current Navy, I believe, is the knowledge that Charts" used by sailing ships) advo its efforts will be the foundation upon cated strongly for a great interna which all future US endeavours in tional undertaking in the Antarctic Antarctica are built in the 21st century exploration. The US Civil War damp and beyond...the US Navy's contribu ened his hopes but his dreams were tions will not and cannot be realised a century later in the forgotten." International Geophysical Year 1957- Ambassador Beeman stressed that 58." the US commitment to Antarctica and "In the 20th century it was the Christchurch would in no way consummate navy officer, Admiral diminish, noting that the US will Richard E Byrd, who re-energised the spend more than US$125m American commitment to Antarctica (NZ$215m) to modernise the and who paved the way for Operation Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. Deep Freeze." "Some aspects of the Navy's work Byrd piloted the first flight over the will be taken over by civilian contrac South Pole in 1929. He commanded tors, which will create more opportu the US naval forces of the US nities for New Zealand companies, Antarctic Service Expedition 1939-41 such as the recent maintenance "when scientific investigation contract awarded to Air New assumed a prominent role." Zealand." "It was Byrd who served as officer- Speaking at the Visitor Centre of The Deep Freeze Memorial dedicated at the NASU in-charge in 1947 for the largest Christchurch's Antarctic Centre a day disestablishment to the memory of 50 Americans who Antarctica expedition in history, the after the transition, Ambassador have died in Antarctica during Operation Deep Freeze. US Naval Operation High Jump and Beeman added that construction of The rock which bears the memorial plaque is an alluvial who raised the US flag over base the new South Pole Station and other glacial deposit from the Bell Hill Gold Mine in the Grey River Valley, Weslland. It has similar geological char camp at Little America in 1955-56 in new Antarctic contracts will boost acteristics to Antarctica. preparation for US participation in s p e n d i n g b y A m e r i c a n s i n

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 LEAD STORY Antarctic Christchurch. Already he noted the US spend more than US$20,000 on fresh fruit and produce each week during the Christchurch summer. "As we approach the next century, science in Antarctica will open up our understanding of climate change, the growth of the universe and the history of our planet," said Beeman. "For over 40 years Christchurch has been our gateway to Antarctica, a home away from home and a constant friend." He recalled that in March 1959 at a flag-raising ceremony to dedicate the headquarters of the US Antarctic programme in Christchurch, a

message from Admiral George Dufek NASU chaplain LCDR Manuel Mak; Col Graham Pritchard, vice commander 109th Airlift Wing; Erick Chiang, (the first commanding officer of director of polar programmes. National Science Foundation; William Pirie ]r, Assistant Secretary of the Navy; NASU) said the dedication marked Ambassador Josiah Beeman; Rear Admiral William Sutton, commander Naval Base Pearl Harbour; Captain Hugh the end of one era of Antarctic explo Smith, commander US Naval Support Force Antarctica. ration and the beginning of another. Dufek's message read, said That year the US Department of affairs that made the most of what Beeman, "With the finest cooperation Defense named the Navy, because of each country could offer in terms of of the New Zealand Government and its strong tradition in Antarctica science and logistics. NASU's pres the people of Christchurch, the US exploration, as the department's exec ence in New Zealand helped cement Navy has been able, for the first time utive agent there. "Exploration of the that partnership with its activities that in history, to establish and support icy continent began in the midst of the made it part of the NZ community." scientific stations in the interior of Cold War and yet became a model for "In Christchurch, the unit has Antarctica. Now begins the new era of warm international collaborations. become more than a name of a mili methodical investigation of the "On a continent where there was no tary presence by virtue of the fact that geophysical nature of Antarctica." known economic value, countries the sailors and soldiers have become Adding his tribute to NASU and competed for the privilege of estab part of the greater Canterbury welcome for the Air National Guard, lishing scientific outposts to demon community by living here and being Erick Chiang, head of the Polar strate their commitment to active in community services, chari Research Support Section of the Office discovery," said Chiang. "Who would ties and educational outreach activi of Polar Programs, National Science have guessed in 1955 that the ideals ties." Foundation said NASU and its prede and goals of the IGY would live on as "With the disestablishment of cessor had achieved its goals every they have through the Antarctic NASU we mark the end of an era that year since 1955. Treaty system for nearly half a started in 1929 with the then Cdr century with still more discoveries to Richard Byrd. The advent of the 1955 come?" IGY opened the continent to science "During these many years, the US that continues uninterrupted to this and NZ Antarctic programmes have day. shared common goals and have estab "Following the heroic age of lished a partnership in Antarctic Continued on page 22

US Ambassador to New Zealand josiah Beeman addresses guests at the NASU disestablishment ceremony at the Antarctic Centre, Christchurch.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE Fish and Seabirds Threatened in the Southern Oceans by Dillon Burke M.A. 1989/90 but fishery patrols suffer from prohibitive costs due PhD student in the Political Science Department to the remoteness of the Southern Oceans. Furthermore, all at the University of Canterbury. resource use suffers from the problem of biological uncer tainty as, without accurate knowledge of stocks, any catch "1 here has been widespread illegal and unregulated level could be too high. CCAMLR has therefore found it diffi fishing of the commercially valuable Patagonian cult to balance short-term economic interests with conserva . toothfish in the Southern Oceans since 1996. This over tion needs. fishing is seriously threatening the sustainability of the Although there have been warnings of illegal and unregu potential fishing industry. And the long-line fishing tech lated fishing in the Southern Oceans, the full scale of the nique being used is also killing the seabird population. problem was not realised until revealed by declassified US The feasibility of tackling the problem is the core issue for naval satellite photography. Unregulated fishing involves member states of the Convention for the fishing outside of CCAMLR rules; illegal Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living fishing occurs inside the Exclusive Resources (CCAMLR). Intervention in the Economic Zone (EEZ) of a member nation. form of surveillance regimes has inter This 'piracy' attracted a lot of public atten esting implications for the unresolved tion at the time of the XXI Antarctic Treaty sovereignty claims in Antarctica. Consultative Meeting (ATCM) in The Antarctic Treaty (AT) was signed in Christchurch in 1997. There the danger of 1959 and one of its aims was the "preser 'hoovering', where long-line and deep-sea vation and conservation of living resources trawling methods are combined to clean in Antarctica". There are four conventions out the ocean, was noted. regulating conservation and resource At the centre of the current problem is management in the area covered by the the Patagonian toothfish. In the 1996/97 Antarctic Treaty and CCAMLR is one of season the total reported catch was 32,991 them. The three others are: the Convention i tonnes. The unreported catch was esti for the Conservation of Antarctic Seals, the mated to be between 74,000 to 82,200 International Convention for the Regulation of Whaling, and Annex II to the to the Americas. Toothfish fetches a Protocol on Environmental Protection to princely sum, some $US5,000-7,000 a the Antarctic Treaty: Conservation of tonne, and Australian estimates of the Antarctic Flora and Fauna. total wholesale value of the illegal and Albatrosses toiletkilled by longline fishing in the CCAMLR's aim was to safeguard the Sl,H„,,r;l Qaatti , j/mefishing m the ,-.,.. Southern Ocean. Photo courtesyurtesy of Greenpeace of Greenpeace unreported catch of toothfish is in the environment and protect the ecosystem of order of $A0.5 billion. The economic the Southern Ocean. As conservation was defined to include incentives are so attractive that it is not anticipated that the rational use this would eventually allow harvesting based on plundering of this resource will abate at any time in the scientific knowledge. immediate future. The historical pattern of resource exploitation in Antarctica The disturbing fact is that over half the catch is being carried is a cycle of successive discovery, overuse and depletion of out by companies and people from CCAMLR Contracting each new stock. Large-scale exploitation and depletion of Parties, with some vessels disguising their nationality by re- many fish stocks preceded CCAMLR. The depletion of flagging to non-Contracting Parties. Anywhere from 60-100 finfish stocks parallelled whaling, but on a much shorter time boats are thought to be involved. This has been happening scale, the lantemfish fishery ceased 1991 /92. because European Union vessels have been displaced from The principle reason for the initiation of harvesting was European Union waters because of fishing policy changes. that Soviet and Eastern Bloc fishing fleets were displaced The involvement of non-Contracting Parties, such as Panama, from waters elsewhere; they alone were responsible for Portugal and Vanuatu, is also worrying because of the lack of almost all fishing operations between 1969 and 1990. In the means of enforcing compliance to conservation regulations 1980s fishing in the Southern Oceans needed to be subsidised among non-Contracting Parties. New Zealand's Minister of but, due to viability, this stopped during the harsher Fisheries, John Luxton, said "CCAMLR worked very well economic climate of the 1990s. In the 1990/91 season Chile whilst no-one fished resources in the convention zone. But started long-lining for Patagonian toothfish. now it may prove to be a maginot line, outflanked by flags of CCAMLR began in 1982 and presently has 23 members. convenience." However, the means that CCAMLR currently has to enforce At the ATCM in May 1997 several nations vetoed formal conservation measures are weak and rely on voluntary discussion of the fishing issue because they did not feel that compliance. Specific responsibility for imposition of penalties the ATCM was the proper place to discuss it. There was some lies with members. A system of inspection was established in Continued on page 21

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic

First Icebreaker in Lyttelton for 15 Years

The Polar Star, a United States icebreaker, made an unscheduled visit to Lyttelton on 1 March after towing the stricken Antarctic supply ship MV Greenwave. The supply ship had broken down off the coast of Antarctica after leaving the . The 13,190 ton, 122 metre long USCGC Polar Star is the first Polar Class icebreaker to visit the port. It was also the first US icebreaker in Lyttelton since the USCGC Glacier departed for Antarctic on 8 January USCGC Polar Star enters Lyttelton Harbour escorted by tugs Godley (left) and Purait. Photo by David Harrowfield 1983. The powerful Polar Star is the older three stainless steel propellers each in heavy ice, the Polar Class of the two Polar Class ships built five metres in diameter are powered icebreakers are able to transfer 400 since 1954. It was produced by the by six, sixteen cylinder Alco diesel tons of water between three tanks on Lockheed Shipbuilding and electric engines, which can produce each side of the ship in less than a Construction Company and commis 18,000 shaft horsepower, or three gas minute. sioned in Seattle, Washington on 17 turbines producing 60,000 shaft Although the ships primary duty is January 1976. The sister ship the horsepower. The controllable pitch icebreaking, it also functions as a USCGC Polar Sea was commissioned propellers and powerful propulsion research ship for up to ten scientists. on 23 February 1978. system are able to move the Polar Star The Polar Star has a meteorological Polar Star is able to break new hard at a continuous three knots through laboratory, two oceanographic labo ice up to 6.5 metres thick. The ship's two meters of new hard ice. If caught ratories and a science library. Duck-billed Dinosaur Fossil Found in Antarctica

A team of Argentinean and U.S. scientists has found fossils tion to support these large plant eaters. The find implies a of a duck-billed dinosaur, along with remains of Antarctica's complicated and robust ecosystem." most ancient bird and an array of giant marine reptiles, on The region around Vega Island is extremely rich in both Vega Island off the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula. terrestrial and marine fossils, and the only such fossil trove in The tooth of a duck-billed dinosaur, or hadrosaur, was Antarctica to span the boundary of the Cretaceous and found in sands about 66-67 million years old, from the Tertiary periods, the time when the dinosaurs were wiped Cretaceous period (about 1-2 million years before the out. asteroid impact that contributed to the extinction of the The team also recovered a four-centimetre-long piece of a dinosaurs). The team that found the fossils is headed by foot bone from what appears to be Antarctica's most ancient Sergio Marenssi of the Instituto Antartico Argentino and bird yet found. Also collected were numerous partial skele Judd Case of St. Mary's College, California. tons of gigantic marine reptiles called plesiosaurs and "This is the first duck-billed dinosaur to be found outside mosasaurs. According to James Martin, a South Dakota the Americas," said Mike Woodburne, University of School of Mines paleontologist on the dig, these specimens California Riverside paleontologist who is part of the included several juveniles which are very rare in the fossil project. "This gives us more support for the idea of a land record. bridge between South America and Antarctica at that time." The group of palaeontologists also includes members from The land bridge was used not only by dinosaurs but prob the Smithsonian Institution and Argentina's Museo de la ably also by marsupial mammals dispersing from the Plata. Americas to Australia via Antarctica. The hadrosaurs are a distinctive group of American dinosaurs, known for fancy crests on their skulls with Heritage Antarctica Launches on networks of passageways that may have been used for vocalization and that may suggest the animals were social. the Net Some stood perhaps 20 feet tall. To reflect its important international outlook, New "This find allows us to paint a much fuller picture of what Zealand's Antarctic Heritage Trust is joining forces life was like in Antarctica at the time," commented Scott with UKAHT under the banner of Heritage Antarctica. Borg, NSF program manager for Antarctic geology and Celebrating this will be the launch of their new web site geophysics. "The climate was obviously very different when at http://www.heritage-antarctica.org. these animals lived. There must have been a lot of vegeta-

V0II6N0. 1, 1998 Antarctic NEWS

Rare Caterpillar Retires Technological Test on Sea Bed The last remaining prototype of only three experimental dozers built by Caterpillar for the American National Science Foundation in 1964 was National Space and Aeronautics recently donated to the Otago Vintage Machinery Club. Administration scientists will test The machine was brought to Lyttelton by container ship from Antarctica state-of-the-art "telepresence" tech where it has spent most of its 36-year life working on the ice. The 13 tonne nology, which may be used to explore machine was used to build and repair snow roads in Antarctica and to tow Mars, on the sea floor near McMurdo sledges to field stations on field trips. Station in Antarctica. With its double width tracks and elongated chassis, the dozer was able to A scientist at Nasa's Ames ride over the top of deep snow and tow as much as 14 tonnes of cargo. Research Centre in California, Dr Unfortunately the experiment was not successful as the machine developed a Carol Stoker, said both areas were bad habit of breaking its rear axles when turning. remote with hostile environments Before retiring at the club's museum at Outram, the dozer was put on show difficult for humans to explore, but at Forbury Park in March during the 150th Otago and Southland anniversary capable of being explored by sophisti commemorations. cated robots. Scientists would use a modified submarine called a telepresence remotely operated vehicle to explore 300m below the surface of McMurdo Sound near Ross Island. Telepresence technology allows scientists on land to use head move ments to point cameras on the under water vehicle and steer by remote control, from thousands of kilometres away if necessary. Scientists will be able to steer the vehicle from adjacent land in McMurdo Station and from as far away as California. The TROV is directed by a computer, both directly and by Auckland Islands Reopened linking it to a virtual-reality under water terrain model. Access to parts of the sub-Antarctic Donoghue said the Ministry of It is attached to a 330m tether, Auckland Islands has been reopened Agriculture's chief veterinarian had including fibre-optic cables, which after the mysterious sealion deaths declared the unknown agent killing sends digital data and video signals earlier this year. the sea lions to be an "exotic to the surface. The signals are Conservation Minister Nick Smith organism". combined into stereo imagery which said that while the cause of the mass That meant the samples sent to scientists can view using special deaths was unknown he had been Massey University for analysis could "stereo glasses". advised by scientists the risk to human not be moved out of Palmerston North A researcher at Monterey Bay health was minimal. until preliminary tests had been done. Aquarium Research Institute, James Conditions for visitors include the Other laboratories around the Barry, will use the TROV to plot how continued closure of the main country are expected to do specialist dominant bottom-dwelling life forms breeding grounds on the tiny offshore testing. change from shallow to deep water in islands of Dundas, Enderby, and He said there were three possible McMurdo Sound. Figure of Eight, where most of the causes of the deaths — a virus, a deaths occurred. bacterium, or a toxic algal bloom. He Lottery Grant Helps Trust Department of Conservation marine would not speculate on the most likely mammal expert Mike Donoghue said cause. The NZ Lottery Grants Board a DOC team estimated about 1800, or Mass deaths of sea creatures had provided a substantial grant to the 60% of this year's New Zealand been reported in Chile, Venezuela, Antarctic Heritage Trust to purchase sealion pups had died, and probably Peru and South Africa. much needed computer equipment. 20% of the adult population. If the deaths were caused by a virus The equipment was installed in time He said the loss of adult females the only remedy would be a vaccine, to support last summers work could not be estimated with confi which could take years to develop. programme with an improved data dence until at least the next breeding If a bacteria was responsible, scien base. The Trust is now able to season in December, and possibly tists would have to decide which manage its artefact inventory and until three years of pup production antibiotic to use and then they would conversation programme more effec had been monitored. struggle to administer it. tively.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic NEWS Giant Ice Shelf Melting in Eastern Antarctic British scientists warn that a giant Antarctic ice sheet more warming are evident all around the coast, with grass than 160km across is breaking up because of a rapid rise in growing in areas once too cold to support it. climate temperature. Five ice shelves on the Antarctic Peninsula have collapsed The sheet is so large it could disrupt the Gulf Stream, the due to regional warming (2.5°C in last 50 years). The rate of warm current of water which flows north from the mid- warming on the Antarctic Peninsula is rapid but not matched Atlantic to the west British coast, experts, including the elsewhere in Antarctica. At 12000 km2 the Larsen Ice Shelf B British Antarctic Survey, report. is four times larger than Larsen A that collapsed in 1995. As it They say that the Larsen B ice shelf on the eastern side is already floating the disintegration of Larsen B will have no of the frozen continent will eventually disintegrate. It is impact on sea level. Sea level will rise only if the ice held back described as "critically unstable" and, unless the retreat of by the ice shelf flows more quickly onto the sea. So far around the ice halts, is expected to collapse over the next two 5000 km2 of ice shelf have been lost from the Antarctic years. Peninsula. This is 0.3% of total ice shelves around Antarctica. A total of 13,000 sq.km of ice in the region has so far BAS conducts a number of diverse research projects on disappeared due to atmospheric warming, but the Larsen Antarctic ice sheets. Details of which can be found on the is the biggest so far. Temperatures around the icecap are British Antarctic Survey website: http://www.nerc- rising five times faster than the global average and signs of bas.ac.uk/ Books Where Biggest Quake this Year Rocks Antarctica Explorers Once The biggest earthquake in the world struck Napier in 1931 that measured Roomed so far this year, measuring 8.1 on the 7.9 on the Richter scale." Richter scale, was recorded on 25 Nothing was known about how much damage it would have caused A building which once served as March, 1998 at 3.11pm NZT in Australia's Antarctic Territory, just to the physical environment in the Captain Robert Scotf s headquarters is off the Balleny Islands about 2000km now being used by Middleton Grange quake's impact area but, according south of New Zealand. to Dr Gledhill, it would have broken School in Christchurch. a lot of earth. The revamped Middleton Grange Seismologist Dr Ken Gledhill of the Institute Geological and Nuclear Had it happened near urban popu Historic House, built on to Thomas Science said, "This is a big, big earth lations the quake would have caused Rowley's original 1866 cob cottage, has a major disaster. The quake that been formally opened as the junior quake — slightly bigger than the 1858 Wairarapa quake that caused struck the Japanese city of Kobe in school's new library. It once stood on a large spread of sideways movement in the ground of January 1995, killing about 6000 12m and an uplift of about 6m. It was farmland as the Rowley homestead, people and injuring 35,000, was 7.2 also larger than the earthquake that on the Richter scale. and was Captain Scotf s headquarters before his 1901-04 Antarctic expedi tion. Fellow explorers Ernest US Senators Pass Through Christchurch Shackleton and Edward Wilson joined United States senators, led by Senate Research Programme conducted by Captain Scott there. Committee on Appropriations the National Science Foundation. The building became a home for chairman Ted Stevens, visited They visited the McMurdo and education when the Christian Schools Antarctica in January. South Pole stations. The group met Trust bought the property in 1963. A The delegation made a five-day Foreign Affairs Minister Don senior architect for Opus International visit to discuss regional issues, McKinnon, Fisheries Minister John Consulting, Malcolm McClurg, said it including security and trade, and to Luxton and Defence Minister Max was an excellent example of finding a visit and assess the US Antarctic Bradford. new use for, and saving, a historic building. Vice-Regal The Christchurch City Council's Ice Visit Hut Project Underway heritage building fund provided Experts selected to conserve the $15,000 for the project. The Governor-General, Sir Michael historic hut built and used by Sir The old mud and straw walls have Hardie Boys, and Lady Hardie Boys in the Antarctic in been strengthened with steel frames, visited Antarctica in January. remote Commonwealth Bay have and steel pins hold the walls in place. They met scientists at Scott Base, undertaken a 51-day project. Rotting wood, mould, and a leaking visited glaciologists in the dry A party of two women and 11 men roof had been replaced, or fixed at a valleys, and New Zealand biologists as well as two documentary film cost of about $220,000. at Bratina Islands on the ice shelf makers sailed into Commonwealth The building had served as two 50km from Scott Base, and visited Bay on board the Akademik Shokalskiy. classrooms, but became so dilapidated McMurdo Station. The conservation team is carrying out a that it was later used for storage and The party included MP Paul East, detailed conservation programme on was largely ignored. Now it was the and Antarctica New Zealand board the hut, which marks the spot where school centrepiece, Mr McClurg said. chairman Chris Mace. Australia's Antarctic heritage began.

VoM<5No. /, 1998 Antarctic NEWS Belgian Explorers Celebrate 100 Years of Belgian Polar Exploration

Using parafoils to achieve speeds of up to 45km per hour, Belgians Dixie Dansercoer, 35, and Alain Hubert, 44, succeeded in crossing Antarctica in just 98 days. They arrived in Christchurch in February 1998 having crossed the ice continent from the site of the former King Baudouin base to the American base at McMurdo via the South Pole. With some favourable conditions the pair sailed 3340km of the 3,924 journey — half of which was achieved in just 23 days at an average speed of 80.8 km per day.

Right: Alain Hubert (left) and Dixie Dansercoer in David Uarrowfield's "Polar Room", Christchurch 17 February 1998. Photo by D. Harrowfield

Antarctica Makes the Literary Map

By Jennifer Little of AFP The men camped for four nights to being "quite bothered"' by the beside the frozen Lake Bonney, experience. Two New Zealand poets and a where they worked and slept in five Manhire plans to publish an inter painter, recently back from layers of clothing to defy average national anthology of writing on Antarctica, found no shortage of temperatures of minus 18 degrees Antarctica in October. inspiration in the ice and snow Celsius. The only sounds they heard Ed — The following poem where they felt time itself was frozen were the creaking and grinding of composed on the ice was kindly along with the landscape. the glaciers. And perpetual wind, provided to 'Antarctic' by Bill The impressions of New which hindered Brown in his Manhire. Bill explained that this Zealand's poet laureate Bill attempts to paint using an easel. He poem was composed mostly out of Manhire, along with those of fellow finally gave up when the wind had entries in the comments column of poet Chris Orsman and painter toppled the easel for the umpteenth the Visitors' Book in Shackleton's Nigel Brown, have been collected in time and painted lying down with a hut at Cape Royds. a book entitled Homelight. The book boulder to hold the canvas in place. is named after special oil lamps used As Manhire observed, nothing by the ill-fated British Antarctic grows, nothing decays and there is explorer early no smell. It is as if time itself is VISITING this century. frozen. The most poignant evidence The 23 hand-sewn copies, with of this was during a visit to Scott's MR SHACKLETON drawings and a woodcut cover by Hut at Cape Evans, which the British for Chris Cochran Brown, are to be sold initially to explorer and four companions used libraries in New Zealand, with a for their second expedition to Cool! Wow! Beautiful! second edition to be launched later Antarctica from 1910 to 1912. It Awesome! this year. ended in disaster with all five Like going back in time. More material will be made avail perishing. Amazing! Historic! Finally able through Manhire who hopes to "You felt they'd just walked out I am truly blessed. publish his field notes on the the door," Manhire recalls. "There journey, which came about through were jars of preserved cabbage, Wow! History! Fantastic! Antarctica New Zealand's inaugural parsnips and other foods." In the Artists to Antarctica scheme. Their stable attached to Scott's hut were Wonderfully kept. brief was to observe the icy wastes sides of seal carcasses stacked up Shackleton's the man! with an artist's sensibility and to with blubber still oozing more than Like going back in time. share their impressions of a place 90 years on. And no smell. that few will ever see. Keen to see the South Pole, Wow! Cool! Historic! Yo! They spent two weeks in January Manhire endured a three-hour flight Awesome! Privileged. Unreal! during Antarctica's late summer, aboard an American Hercules from And Thank you, God. when the sun constantly hovers Scott Base to spend 45 minutes on And Happy Birthday, above the horizon. "This made it the ground at the end of the world. Dad. And Thailand. slightly moon-like. It felt like you Describing it as a very "marginal, might be on another planet," said paradoxical place" where any direc Manhire. tion you walk is north, he confessed By

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES

New Zealand

Key Speakers at Workshop Research in Northern Victoria Land Antarctica New Zealand's Future scenarios and opportunities emerging Workshop, being held 28-30 April around Antarctic and the kinds of A science strategy development 1998, has attracted some leading inter values needed to underpin New process has prompted Antarctica national and national speakers. Zealand's policy in the region. New Zealand to investigating the "The Workshop would be a signifi Keynote and panel speakers feasibility of using a small relocatable cant forum for discussing the future of include: former Prime Minister, David facility and associated transport to Antarctic in a time of change for the Lange; Hugh Logan, Director General support research in Northern Victoria icy continent", says spokesman Tim of the Department of Conservation; Land. Higham. "Already fishing fleets from Stuart Prior, Antarctic Policy Unit, The agency is seeking expressions around the world are targeting Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade; of interest for research that focuses on Antarctica's fish stocks and exponen- director of the Adventure Networks climate and environmental change tiaPgrowth in visitors to the region is International and Polar Logistics indicators; or latitudinal variation in unlikely to slow." companies, Anne Kershaw; Chairman biological adaptations and systems; The Workshop is one of a number of of Greenpeace New Zealand, Roger or geological evolution and break-up sector group initiatives feeding into Wilson; author of the recently of the Gondwana supercontinent. the Ministry of Research, Science and published Geophysics in Antarctica • International partnerships are Technology's Foresight Project aimed Views from the Southern Oceanic Rim, being sought for the initiative and it at setting priorities and investment Klaus Dodds; and chief executive of is hoped that the facility will be oper strategies in the future. the Ministry of Research, Science and ational in the 2000/01 summer Its aim is to explore the trends, Technology, James Buwalda.

Artists to the Ice years. The strategy puts forward an Scott Base Renovation approach to managing environmental Creative New Zealand and and human activities in Antarctica that Scott Base's Q Hut is being Antarctica New Zealand will be balances the benefits of access with the completely stripped and refitted this offering two artists selected for the need for environmental protection. winter at a cost of $370,000. The Artists to Antarctica Programme Initiatives include a Ross Sea Region project will help increase bed space $10,000 each from next year. The State of the Environment Report, work and provide an expanded library grants will cover travel and material on an environmental database for field and quiet work areas for scientists. A costs and enable the artists to devote activities and development of an envi new $130,000 double-skinned fuel time to their creative work on return ronmental monitoring programme. tank, built by Christchurch company to New Zealand. An Environmental Advisory Group Campion and Irving, was trans The first inaugural artists' visit last has been established to provide expert ported to the base on the resupply season resulted in a slim volume of advice on key environmental initia ship Greenwavc in January and will poetry and sketches called Homelight tives. Copies of the document are be installed early next season. by Bill Manhire, Chris Orsman and available from the Antarctica New Nigel Brown. It was produced at Zealand library. SA & NZ Joint Research Scott Base and launched as a fax edition by Pemmican Press at Planned collaborative South Africa / Victoria University on April 6. Nigel Scholarships Awarded New Zealand research in the Brown's paintings will be exhibited The 1998 Post Graduate Antarctic Southern Ocean and Ross Sea in at a function hosted by the Scholarships of $10,000 each have been early 1999 using the South African Governor-General at Government won by doctorate students from ship Agulhus is now being reviewed House on June 21. Applications for Massey, Auckland and Otago due to the unavailability of the the 1998/99 artists and media Universities. New Zealand Post icebreaker. The National Institute of programmes close on May 31. scholar, Peter Richie of Massey, will Air and Water (NIWA), the lead look at whether poultry virus is New Zealand science agency in the Environmental present in Ross Island penguin project, is investigating the possi Management Strategy colonies; Telecom Payphones scholar, bility of using other research vessels. Paul Bond of Otago, will model the The research work will focus on an in An Environmental Management properties of cracks in sea ice; and situ iron fertilisation experiment to Strategy has recently been released Kelly Tarlton's scholar, Guy Carton of test the hypothesis that lack of iron by Antarctica New Zealand for activ Auckland, will explore the physiology limits phytoplankton production in ities in Antarctica over the next 3-5 of sensory systems in Antarctic fish. the Southern Ocean.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic national programmes Canada ^

First Radar Images of Couple to Cross Antarctica Antarctica Complete at the Millennium During October last year a RADARSAT mapping project Canadian polar explorers Laurie Dexter and Synniva Sorby plan to accomplished the first complete radar image coverage of become the first male-female team to ski across Antarctica. Starting Antarctica. The stunning imagery is being transformed from Brekner Island, the pair plan to arrive at the South Pole on into a mosaic map of the continent. Scientists are also New Year's Day, 2000, and continue on to McMurdo Sound. studying the imagery to extract information about ice- Dexter, of Fort Smith, Northern West Territory, is a veteran of the flow, geological structures and other details. To make it Polar Bridge Expedition that crossed the Arctic Ocean in 1988. possible to identify changes to the ice sheet a repeat Sorby, of Los Angeles, was born in Norway, grew up in Montreal coverage of area will be obtained in two years time. and graduated from Bishop's University were she was a prominent You can see the images at member of the ski team. She was a member of the Women's http://radarsat.space.gc.ca/eng/amm/menu.html. Antarctic Team that skied to the South Pole in 1992-93. Canada Applies for Full SCAR Membership According a recent newsletter for the full membership of the Scientific The Canadian Polar Commission Canadian Antarctic Research Committee on Antarctic Research will ensure that resources necessary Network, Canada is prepared to (SCAR). to support the research activities will assume a higher and more active A new Canadian Committee on understand the significance of profile in Antarctica. As a clear Antarctic Research (CCAR) will be Antarctic science by stressing the signal to others in the Antarctic established to provide a framework for value of bipolar studies and the need scientific community Canada has wider participation in Antarctic for a sound scientific basis for imple submitted a formal application for science. menting the Environmental Protocol.

Chile Busy Programme of Science Expeditions

During the summer season of Tectonics of South America and naval support ship is the 450 ton, 1997/98 Chile's 34th Antarctic Antarctica in King George, 42.5m charter of "Isaza" which science expedition comprised some Greenwich, Elephant and Deception travels at a maximum speed of 15 15 projects of the National and Smith Islands; Chemical knots. The ship can carry thirty Programme of Antarctic Science changes in the Atmosphere in Fildes passengers and three Zodiacs. There and Technology Studies. These Peninsula; Mesozoic-Cenozoic are no science facilities onboard as included: Paleofloras in Livingston & Low Is, the ship is usually used for coastal Cartography and GIS in the South Fildes Peninsula; and a study of the patrol fishery and servicing naviga Shetlands; Base marine science at Nth American-Chilean co-operation tion aids in Patagonia archipelago. Arturo Prat in Bahia Chile; in Antarctica 1939-1949. Chile's three permanent bases are: Glaciology at Patriot Hills, Other activities included: estab Arturo Prat on Greenwich Island, Geodynamics of volcanic processes lishing satellite antennae; GPS O'Higgens at Cape Legoupil on the in Paulet Island and Tabarin mapping programme; ecology of Antarctic Peninsula and the Peninsula; Ecology of seals at Cape the Albatross; dynamic processes in Marsh/Frei/Escudero complex on Shirreff; Neutron monitoring in the Antarctic geosystems; identification King George Island. Fildes Peninsula; Ecology of of sea-ice from satellite radar Additionally seven summer bases Penguins at Ardley Peninsula and images; Austral Telemedicine were established: Videla at Bahia Bahia Paraiso; "Telemedicine" at network; and the feeding of whales. Paraiso: Risopatron on Robert Island, Fildes Peninsula; Volcanism and Chile's logistical support is Ripamonti at Rey Jorge Island, low grade metamorphism in Byers provided by the Air Force and the Carvajal on , Yelcho Peninsula; Antarctic foraminifer in Navy. Air support comprises a in the Palmer Archipelago at Bahias Chile, Fildes and Foster; Hercules CI 30 from Punta Arenas to Doumer Island, Shirreff at Peninsula metamorphic complex at King George I (2.5 hours) and a Livingston Island and Patriot Hills in Smith L, False Bay and Spring Point; Twin Otter to Patriot Hills. The the Ellsworth Mountains.

JO Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 NATIONAL PROGRAMMES Antarctic Britain Looking for Life in Scientists from America, Russia, Vostok and its overlying ice sheet, interior of the continent. The lake is United Kingdom, France, Germany based on glaciological and geophysical arguably the most isolated aquatic and Japan met in Russia in March 1998 data. Scientists speculated on possible environment on Earth and may well to develop a programme to investigate life existing within the lake using contain unique micro-organisms and the lake discovered beneath the ice at existing knowledge of polar lake and bio-molecules. Vostok, the Russian Antarctic research marine environments. Microbiological studies of cores station. The discussions focussed on tech from the 3800 m long ice coring project The presence of water under the nologies for penetrating the 4 km thick at Vostok have isolated viable micro Antarctic ice sheet was first recognised ice sheet and placing equipment in the organisms up to 200,000 years old and during the 1970's. Recent satellite radar lake without compromising its pristine similar biota may have "seeded" the altimetry studies revealed the existence status. The need for rigorous protocols lake. The long time scales of isolation of an exceptionally large lake (roughly and crosschecks to avoid contamina and the extreme environment will 224 km x 48 km in area, 484 m deep) tion of this unique environment is a have a major impact on the survival beneath more than 4 km of ice sheet. central feature of proposed mission and evolution of lake biota and may be In 1996 geophysical studies revealed planning. reflected in physiological/biochemical the scale of Lake Vostok and ice-core A series of recommendations were adaptations. American exobiologists drilling was stopped at around 100 developed regarding the scientific also see an analogy between the envi metres above it while scientists worked objectives and technological require ronment of Lake Vostok and a possible out procedures to sample the lake ments needed to investigate Lake aquatic environment beneath the ice whilst keeping it pristine. Thought to Vostok. sheet on Europa, one of the moons of be roughly the size of Lake Ontario, (The origin of these lakes is still a Jupiter. NASA has hopes of eventually Lake Vostok, is the largest of over 70 subject of discussion. The most likely sending a robot probe to Europa and sub-glacial lakes in Antarctica that scenario is that the lakes developed have recently taken a significant occur close to ice divides. after the ice sheet had reached its interest in Lake Vostok. Staff from the British Antarctic Survey lake micro present thickness and that the lakes NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory, biologist, Dr Cynan Ellis-Evans, said have always been sealed from the Pasadena, are now actively involved "The programmes' broad objectives atmosphere. Estimates of the age of in planning a Vostok penetration are to penetrate the ice-sheet, monitor Lake Vostok range from hundreds of mission for around 2001 and will be the lake environment and establish the thousands to millions of years. The represented at the workshop by presence and nature of life-forms in the sediments represent an entirely project leaders Dr Frank Carsey, an lake. The purpose of the meeting is to unique opportunity to obtain earth scientist, and engineer, Dr Joan outline current understanding of Lake subglacial rock specimens from the Horvath.) I H I t a l y The Italian Antarctic Science Programme

Italy may be a relative newcomer to the Antarctic but has pass through the base. They are drawn from throughout steadily increased its presence on the ice and with it the Italy including staff from some of the country's leading scope of its scientific research programme. universities. This year marks the 13th summer on Antarctica, having The base site covers 3600sq m. of which 1000 sq m. is first ventured to the ice in 1985/86 when the National devoted to research laboratories, accommodation and ancil Agency for New Technologies, Energy and the lary facilities for personnel. Staff are backed up with an Environment in Italy established its seasonal base at Terra extensive array of equipment including a 15 metre research Nova Bay in North Victoria land on the eastern edge of the boat, four smaller inflatable boats, skidoos, all terrain vehi Ross Sea. Italy signed the Antarctic Treaty in 1991. cles cranes and tractors. The Italian government has committed significant Logistical support is provided by both sea and air links funding into its Antarctic scientific research programme, with New Zealand and Italy. At the beginning of each appropriating the equivalent of $US190m for the six years season a support vessel sails from Italy via the Suez Canal to the end of 1991 period and a further $US325m for the and Port of Lyttelton with the bulk of supplies needed for 1991/96 period. the season's research programme. Air support is provided The Italian base is operative from mid October to late by the Italian Air force which flies C-130 Hercules to the February or early March with upwards of 60 scientific base from Christchurch using an ice runway formed on personnel living at the base at any one time during the thick pack ice in part of Terra Nova Bay. The air strip is also summer season. During the season up to 250 personnel occasionally used by United States and Royal New Zealand

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 11 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES

Air force aircraft as a back up when the weather closes the The Italians also hire two or three helicopters each season American operated ice runway on the Ross Ice Shelf. currently supplied by Helicopters New Zealand of Nelson. The Italian base undertakes a wide range of scientific Extract from Canterbury Business Monthly research projects. These include oceanographic studies, volcanology, geology, glaciology, marine biology, the impact of global climatic phenomena on the Antarctic and meteorites - more than 250 of which have been discovered United States and classified over the past 13 years. Aside from the physical aspects of the Antarctic environ ment, Italian scientists have been conducting experiments Oldest Crayfish Fossils on the effect of medicines in the Antarctic environment and Discovered the reaction of the human body on climatic changes. Bob O'Brien of the Lyttelton Shipping Agency Ltd acts New evidence discovered during an NSF funded expe agent for the Italian Antarctic programme in Christchurch. dition in the area last season shows He says the Italians, like other countries on the ice oper that freshwater crayfish evolved 65 million years earlier ating out of Christchurch, spend considerable sums of than previously thought. money with local businesses. "The Italians buy supplies US researchers discovered crayfish burrows in 240 from between 30 and 40 businesses in the city spending million year old deposits of the Triassic period. They between $1.5m and $2m each summer season." identified a 285 year old fossil crayfish claw — the oldest Food, building and plastic materials, communications known evidence of decapod crustaceans from fresh and electronic equipment, plastic materials and up to water deposits anywhere on earth. 600,000 litres of jet fuel are all required by the Italians Scientists have long speculated that decapod crus taceans invaded freshwater stream and lake systems during their four months on the ice. The local hospitality before the end of the Palaeozoic era, but had no direct industry also benefits, he says, with several hundred bed evidence until now. nights generated by the Italian Antarctic operation. TOURISM

Tourism on the Up 'The unique attractions of the Ross Dependency mean demand for opportunities for visitors to access this region ivill continue to grow," says Tim Higham, Communications Manager of Antarctica New Zealand.

Last year about 10,000 tourists exactly the same as they were when by military transport aircraft. visited Antarctica last year, almost they were built almost 90 years ago." Christchurch, as long standing avia exclusively by ship. These anchored Lyttelton is already benefiting from tion gateway to the Antarctic, is well offshore with visitors transferring to Antarctic tourism with three ships placed to take advantage of these land by Zodiac inflatable boats. Of using the port including the Marco opportunities as they develop." . those tourists between 500 and 1000 Polo, which can carry up to 500 Extract front Canterbury Business Monthly people visit the Ross Sea area where passengers. Christchurch based New Zealand's Antarctic operations Heritage Expeditions has already Interactive Display a are based. In addition there are 2000 to successfully broken into this market. Hit for Visitors 3000 scientific and support staff that The rate of expansion is handi are active in the region during capped at present by the difficulties Scott Base winter science technician summer. The Ross Sea area offers a getting to the Antarctic which include Hermione Binnie is providing diverse range of attractions for visitors, the lack of suitable ships, the high regular photo and diary entries for a says Tim Higham, Communications costs and rough weather. popular display in the International Manager, Antarctica New Zealand. "Developments are also occurring Antarctic Visitors centre. Digital "There is the stunning scenery in airborne tourism with overflights of images and text is being emailed to including the Ross Ice Shelf, Mt Erebus the Ross Dependency operating from the centre and displayed on an inter and the Dry Valleys — the largest ice Australia and New Zealand could re active monitor. Richard Benton, free areas on the continent as well as enter that market," said Higham. "In manager of the Centre, said personal, the original huts left behind by the longer term it is possible commer daily contact with the base is proving explorers Shackleton and Scott. The cial aircraft could be able to land on a big hit with visitors to the attrac huts are absolutely unique as they are the ice runways presently only used tion.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic feature 40 Years Ago Dream of Antarctic Crossing Finally Fulfilled

By Margaret Bradshaw - final instalment

January 1958, marked the end Arrivalof atthe theNew SouthZealand Poleexpedi 4 tions. The tractor party — Ed Hillary, Derrick Wright, Jim Bates and Murray Ellis — were flown back to Scott Base, while Peter Mulgrew remained at the Pole to relay radio messages between Vivian Fuchs's Crossing Party and Scott Base. The sledging expeditions, however, were far from finished. North of the the Northern party had investigated Escalade Peak and had moved further west to survey the they could before the snow became too Above:The Darwin Party before being flown out to Boomerang Range (see photo, page 93 soft. Scoll Base. Left to right: Roy Carlyon, Selwyu On 25 January they left the dogs, Bucknell, Harry Ayres and Bill Cranfield. Photo: previous issue), returning to their Courtesy of jean Ayres. depot in the Lashly Mountains on 14 and carrying a tent and food for two January. For the next week they made nights ascended Mt Huggins. The Below left: Sir Edmund Hillary is greeted by American geological examinations and estab climb took two long days, but they well-wishers after the arrival of the Crossing Party at lished survey stations on many of the were disappointed to find cloud Scott Base. Photo: Antarctica New Zealand Archives. peaks at the head of the Ferrar prevented a good view towards . Island. Returning to the sledges they January Harry Ayres and Roy Carlyon At this point Murray Douglas and discovered that four of the dogs had left Haven Nunatak and travelled Guyon Warren were flown out to managed to get off the line. south to Mt Henderson in the catch the USS Greuville Victory back to After three days confined to their Britannia Range (see photo, page 92 New Zealand, but Bernie Gunn and tent by snow and poor visibility, the previous issue). That night they heard Richard Brooke decided to put in a two men felt compelled to move as that most of Hillary's party were back further survey station on Pivot Peak they were running short of food. at base, that a British twin Otter had and then to climb Mt Huggins in the Finding their earlier depot with some made the first single-engine trans- Royal Society Range. difficulty, they then continued to Antarctic flight from South Ice to Scott When the surveying was finished, descend the , where Base over the Pole, and that the and with a dog team each, Gunn and bamboo marker poles indicated that Crossing Party was within 450 km of Brooke sledged down the Skelton 1.5m of snow had accumulated on the the Pole. Glacier to "Stepaside Spur" then glacier since the last season. After completing a survey station ascended the Trench Glacier as high as Gunn and Brooke were flown out on Mt Henderson, they continued -^ from Skelton Depot on southwards to put a final one in near ■ 6 February, ending an Mt McClintock overlooking the fast- extremely valuable moving . The dogs were Northern reconnais- becoming increasingly distressed by sance expedition that slab subsidence, which Carlyon covered 32,000 sq km described: "During the day I was in jv.^*a of complex topog the middle of a large subsidence which raphy, and produced I heard roaring towards me before it the first comprehen reached the sledge and then roared off sive geological descrip into the distance until I could hear it tion of the area. no longer. This subsidence must have The Darwin and involved tens or even hundreds of Southern Parties were acres of snow surface." also accomplishing The two men returned to great things. On 7 Westhaven Nunatak to await the

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE

arrival by plane of Selwyn Bucknell they had left at the depot was 4 metres to the South Pole had and Bill Cranfield for the journey high or they might have missed it alto been achieved in the face of great diffi down the Darwin Glacier. gether. They kept to schedule by trav culties. In 1955-56 the Theron, a 830- Ayres and Carlyon had been five elling 50km in 10 hours the day before tonne former Canadian sealer, had weeks without human contact, the they were due to arrive at the depot. gone south to establish an Advance longest period of any of the TAE field When the time came, however, there Party at Vahsel Bay on the edge of the parties. Now with four in the party, was no sign of the depot. Filchner Ice Shelf. On board were New they sledged steadily down the glacier The topography around was not at Zealanders Hillary, Claydon, Miller, without incident, Carlyon taking a all familiar and undulations gave them with compatriots George Lowe and round of measurements at the conflu a horizon of less than 3km. Only by Gordon Haslop who were to be part of ence with the . repeatedly using their sun compass the British team. They encountered blue ice near the did they eventually locate the depot, Fuchs's intention was to leave the bottom of the Darwin Glacier where demonstrating how easy it is to get lost Advance Party with enough supplies the summer thaw had produced melt on the Polar Plateau. They packed the to establish Shackleton Base and streams up to 1.2 metres deep and numerous rock samples they had prepare it over the winter for the sharp ice ridges that the dogs did not collected, wrote letters, and were Crossing Party the following year. like. Time was now the essence as ready when Claydon flew in with the The Weddell Sea lived up to its Cranfield wanted to catch the Beaver, accompanied by John Lewis in notorious reputation for unpre Greenville Victory back to New the Crossing Party's Otter. dictable and dangerous pack-ice. Like Zealand. At the mouth of the glacier The day after the planes left, invigo Shackleton's Endurance 40 years they had a problem locating Darwin rated by fresh food, Miller and Marsh before, the Theron became trapped in Depot in fog and were the ice, unable to move forced to camp until it despite all efforts to free the cleared. On 22 January the " U ship. The Endurance never ^ ■ , survived the icy grasp, but Beaver flew in to take them % jijk'*- back to Scott Base. Another fortunately for the Theron, major reconnaissance expe n \'\ I * * " - ! * after three weeks a small dition covering a huge area pool opened allowing of newly surveyed country %■ Claydon to make a difficult had come to an end. v ' - ^ \ ■■ take-off in the float- Exploring the Marsh ;i equipped Auster and to Glacier and Queen Elizabeth 1^1 successfully locate a lead to Range, Bob Miller and open water. But this was George Marsh in the ■ »» tJW not the end of their prob Southern Party struggled lems. with poor weather and dogs ? % :<*■ ? i Unloading began as soon that panicked easily (in "all as a suitable site had been Left to right: Bob Miller, John Claydon, Sir Edmund Hillary, George Lowe and Gordon HaslO) chosen in Vahsel Bay, but directions") after snow at Vahsel Bay 1955-56. Photo: Antarctica New Zealand Archives. subsidence. With only 10 fears were held for the days left before having to return to began their long journey back to Scott stability of the sea ice against which Depot 700, they discovered the Law Base, keen to keep the two dog teams the ship was moored, and it was neces Glacier but were unable to descend it together, and to continue glaciological sary to move as much of the supplies to cross to the Queen Alexandra and meteorological measurements. as possible straight from the ship to Range. They travelled comfortably, both men the top of the ice-shelf. Unfortunately They established their penultimate and dogs in top form, their route the Ferguson tractors and Weasels survey station in such miserable guided by snow cairns, and their were deep in the holds, and the over conditions that it became necessary to stocks replenished at the various lying stores had to be dumped on the pitch the tent and light a primus so depots. sea ice before the machines could be that each man could warm up between Meanwhile, history was being made uncovered. successive trips outside to complete at the South Pole. On 20 January New After a couple of fine days, the the round of sights. The weather Zealand time, Vivian Fuchs's Crossing weather broke with little warning, a continued windy and cold, and after Party roared in to be greeted by heavy sea rose, and after a hawser one last numbing survey station, they Hillary and US Admiral Dufek, both of broke, the ship was forced to battle out turned their faces back towards Depot whom had flown in from McMurdo through the accumulating pack to 700. for the occasion, accompanied by nine avoid being crushed. Time was tight with barely enough reporters. It was a momentous event, The men ashore, including Miller, days to get back to the depot in time and regardless of how the media were stranded with only very basic for the flight on 16 January. Supplies inflated the idea of tension between supplies. Everyone was relieved when from their Christmas Depot, part way Hillary and Fuchs, each gave generous 24 hours later the pack ice drifted out back, were now urgently needed, but recognition of the other's achievement of the bay and the Theron was able to on the day they were due to arrive and seemed genuinely pleased to join return. there it was blowing a blizzard with hands at the bottom of the world. Four days later the Theron departed poor visibility. Fortunately the cairn The British journey from the Vahsel Bay in falling temperatures

14 Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE on the western site of the Shackleton hazard. By travelling at night when Range from which the Crossing Party the snow was harder the weary party would leave the following spring. A eventually reached South Ice on 21 site was quickly selected, and as time December having covered about was running out, it was supplied by 500km with almost constant pressure air involving 20 round trips. from unpredictable crevasses. The Magga Dan left the bay, While Blaiklock and Stephenson Shackleton Base was expanded and reconnoitred the next part of the route South Ice was built. The two wintering with two dog teams, leaving 2 metre teams, Hal Lister, Ken Blaiklock and high snow cairns to mark the way, the Jon Stephenson at South Ice, and seismic Sno-cat Haywire, which had Fuchs and 12 others at Shackleton been left at South Ice the previous Base, now settled in and made plans month, now joined the party, together Sir Vivian Fuchs at Depot 700 on the Crossing Party's for the following season. with another Weasel. Now that the journey from the South Poler. Photo: Antarctica New Zealand Archives. On 8 October, Fuchs, David Pratt, RAF Flight had flown plenty of Geoffrey Pratt and Roy Homard set off supplies in to South Ice, the Crossing leaving the eight-man Advance Party to make the first overland journey to Party left once more on Christmas safely ashore, although much later in South Ice in three Weasels and one Day, refreshed and towing a massive the season than originally planned. Sno-cat, but the Filchner Ice Shelf 32 tonnes of material for the journey, The men's only shelter at that time proved far worse than expected, with including explosives for regular were four tents and a Sno-cat crate. some badly crevassed areas that seismic shots along the route. Their tasks before winter set in were slowed the party considerably. Air The RAF Flight now moved in to formidable; a large hut had to be built, reconnaissance became necessary to South Ice in preparation for the first 300 tonnes of stores had to be moved cross or avoid some particularly trans-Antarctic airplane traverse from 3km from the sea ice to the base site, broken areas. South Ice to Scott Base. An abortive dogs had to be bedded-down and Meanwhile, two dog teams had attempt, led by Squadron Leader John vehicles maintained. The party was been flown ahead to the Shackleton Lewis with New Zealander Flight led by Ken Blaiklock, who although Range to help reconnoitre a route up Lieutenant Gordon Haslop, Flight only 27 years old, was an Antarctic the crevassed ice slope at the head of Sergeant Peter Weston and Sergeant veteran. the Filchner ice shelf. Further obstacles Ellis Williams, was made in the Otter Winter gales came upon them too and crevasses were found later as both on 30 December, but the weather was fast and only the framework of the the dogs and vehicles skirted the end too bad with icing of the wings. base could be erected before they were of the Shackleton Range and crossed A second attempt was made forced to make the 6.5m x 3m x 2.5m the to the possible when the Americans gener crate their winter home, with the Whichaway Nunataks. ously flew in five precious drums of bitterly cold tents for sleeping. At one point it took the party four fuel from Ellsworth Station. The Otter March blizzards produced huge days to cover 4km of broken ground. left again on 6 January, this time with snowdrifts, and after a visit to the sea Two weasels had broken down and no problems, and almost 11 hours later ice to collect further stores, they saw only one weasel and the Snot-cat were they were landing near Scott Base to be that the sea ice had broken away, still operational by the time they taking with it all of the coal, 300 drums reached South Ice on 14 November, 22 of fuel, most of the stores, a lot of days after they had hoped to be back at building material, their boat, and most Shackleton Base, and one day before of the seals they had killed for dog they were scheduled to finally leave food. for the crossing. Despite the set-backs, work A new deadline of 24 November continued on the base hut, although was set, and on that day the vehicles they estimated they had shovelled 80 lined up outside the base; Fuchs in tonnes of snow out in 3 months with Sno-cat Rock 'n Roll, then David Pratt 40 tonnes still remaining. Summer in Able, followed by the Weasels eventually arrived and conditions Rumble driven by Allan Rogers and improved. The hut was finished and Wrack and Ruin by Lowe; next was sledging journeys were made to the the Muskeg tractor Hopalong named Theron Mountains. by Australian Jon Stephenson, Fuchs and others flew in by Otter followed by Sno-cat County of Kent aircraft from Halley Bay on 12 January, named by Homard. 1957, and shortly after the Magga Dan One day later disaster almost struck. arrived with the rest of the party. This A crevasse bridge collapsed, leaving was roughly the same time that the Rock 'n Roll precariously suspended New Zealand party had arrived on the over a chasm. David Stratton and Ross Sea side and Scott Base was built. Fuchs made a careful exit to safety by The British party's most important Bob Miller of the Southern Parly with one of his crawling over one of the pontoons. favourite dogs "Butch", bom the previous year al Mt task was to identify a site for South Ice Crevasses continued to be a constant Cook. Photo: Courtesy of Lady Majorie Miller.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE met by jubilant New Zealanders and where they were given the warmest beginning to set and thick snow on Americans after a journey of 2110km. of welcomes. some days slowed them down. By this time Hillary was back at After a four-day break, the British For the last day before reaching Scott Scott Base to meet the historic Otter Sno-cats continued their crossing Base, Marsh and Miller were joined by Right, the New Zealand Party having towards Depot 700, where Hillary, Major James Adams who wanted to do reached South Pole. who had returned to base for adminis a study of cold weather reaction on the Beyond South Ice the Crossing Party trative duties, was to meet them again two men during their last day. After was free of constant crevasses, but was on 7 February and accompany the being in the field for 128 days and fighting large areas of "murderous group to Scott Base. On that same day, sledging 2675 kms, Miller and Marsh sastrugi" which slowed them down far ahead of them, Miller and Marsh had just completed the longest sledge and caused irritating damage to the were just coming into sight of familiar journey in New Zealand history, and sledges and their towbars. A variety of landmarks, such as Mt Warren near opened up a previously unknown area mechanical problems were also the head of the Skelton Glacier. of the Transantarctic Mountains. plaguing the party and lack of spare When they reached Depot 280 On 2 March the Crossing Party drove parts meant that Weasel Rumble had (Plateau Depot), direct radio contact across the ice and parked in front of to be left by the wayside, followed not was made with the Crossing Party. Scott Base, greeted by the entire Ross long afterwards by the Muskeg tractor Despite white-outs, fog and low Island community. The last leg had Hopalong. Seismic measurements temperatures, the two men made been relatively straightforward, apart continued to be made causing some good time descending the Skelton from Geoffrey Pratt collapsing from delay. Glacier, the only sad occasion being carbon monoxide poisoning in his Sno- As January progressed, another the death of the dog "Hemp" through cat on the way to Depot 700. Hillary's Weasel had to be abandoned together sickness. guidance had been invaluable with a large sledge. A mysterious sick On 13 February they reached descending the Skelton Glacier ness, with nausea and high tempera Skelton Depot near the Ice Shelf and "Staircase", directing the large vehicles tures, struck the party, affecting all but were met by Cranfield in the plane. away from badly crevassed areas. two of the men. The decision of whether to sledge or With a congratulatory message from But at last, on 20 January, they fly back to base was made for them, as the Queen, and the bestowal of a were met by a welcoming party just there was insufficient fuel to fly the knighthood on Vivian Fuchs, a great 3km out from South Pole Base, two teams out. The sun was now journey had ended. TRIBUTE Werner Giggenbach 1937 -1997

NZPA — New Zealand-based scien placed in the geothermal research This eruption showered the crater tist Werner Giggenbach, who died in programme and spent two years at floor and the main crater with Papua New Guinea 7 November 1997, Wairakei. hundreds of lava "bombs," many still was one of the world's leading geo- His particular interest was in incandescent. In the 15 minutes after chemists and volcano experts, understanding the relationship the explosion the level of the lava lake colleagues say. Dr Giggenbach between water, rocks, and gases at dropped 5m and then rose again. suffered a stroke while on a field trip elevated temperatures, and using the Although the eruption was one of the to the Rabaul volcano with his wife, information to help predict volcanic strongest observed last season shock researcher Agnes Reyes, who worked activity and its effects on atmospheric wave effects were minimal. Dr with him at the Institute of Geological pollution. His work frequently took Giggenbach was hit above the right and Nuclear Sciences. him to dangerous locations, such as knee by a small "bomb" still hot A highlight of Dr Giggenbach's White Island and other New Zealand enough to ignite part of his clothing. career was in December 1978 when he volcanoes. He studied active volca But he, and his six colleagues on the entered the crater of Antarctica's noes in more than 20 countries. inner crater rim were concerned about Mount Erebus to collect gas samples possible damage to the nylon ropes — a feat that has not been repeated Extract from Antarctic March 1979 used in the descent. Therefore the (see Antarctic extract below). Violent eruptions, stormy weather, attempt to reach the crater floor was Dr Giggenbach, of Eastbourne, near and damage to equipment, made it called off so that the ropes could be Wellington, was born in Augsburg, impossible for the international team checked. Nine men and one woman Germany, in 1937. He studied inor on Mt Erebus to obtain gas samples from New Zealand, France, and the ganic chemistry at the Munich from fumaroles in the active inner United States, worked on Erebus Technical University and undertook crater. Two New Zealanders were the between 10 December and 3 January, two years of post-doctorate research first ever to descend into the inner studying its volcanic and seismic in the United States before moving to crater on 23 December, and Dr W.F. activity. New Zealand in 1968. He joined the Giggenbach was within 20m of the First to make the descent after the then Department of Scientific and crater floor when the first violent erup inner crater had been quiescent for 14 Industrial Research where he was tion occurred from the active vent. Continued on inside back page

16 Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antargic FEATURE The Riddle of the Antarctic Peninsula

by David E. Yelverton FRGS him from using until several days later. on them, Jonassen badly injured his The Story of the Swedish Antarctic Considering they could only move at arm and, to cap everything, the dogs Expedition 1901-3: Part II the speed of the two men pulling on broke into their pemmican bag and foot, not ski, and always ahead of the devoured its entire contents, putting Climbing to the summit of Mt. dog sledge, it was a marathon effort. paid to any further advance. Christiansen, off the north shore of Weatherwise it was their only lucky When the storm died down on the Robertson Island, the sight that greeted spell south of the island. Pinned down evening of 20 October Nordenskjold Nordenskjold once more changed his by a blizzard for the next two days climbed the nunatak, which he named plan. Seals there were in plenty, but the Nordenskjold realised his only hope after Borchgrevink, to find everything 100ft ice wall they had encountered lay in a lightweight push for the peaks blotted out by mist. The summit he running away north west from there he began to see to the south above the stood on was just 3 miles south of the was really the edge of an ice shelf that whirling drift as the storm subsided. 66th parallel, and they had travelled engulfed the so-called Seal Islands and All that the remaining rations would 177 miles. stretched away in a limitless expanse to afford was an 8-day round trip. They Leaving the others to pack the the south. There had never been any would have to take the smaller sledge sledge he climbed it again in the seals near the islands, nor would there with just the bare essentials. morning to scan what looked like an be on the coast they planned to follow By lunchtime on 18 October condi ice-filled sound running west, flanked to the south west. Somehow neither tions had improved enough for them by mountains that dwindled into the Larsen in 1893 nor they the previous to start. With the coast to the west distance where it seemed to curve autumn had seen anything of it on largely obscured by drift they were northwards. Standing there with his passage past Robertson Island. crossing the badly crevassed snout of a camera, some 13 miles south of their They would have to take all the food with them instead of leaving some at the island. Counting on finding some at Cape Framnaes — a risky assump tion seeing he had not seen its coast — he left a note telling Larsen he would leave news at that cape and might return along the coast all the way to Cape Foster. The immediate problem of getting up on to the 300ft shelf was solved when Nordenskjold found a snow ramp after the evening meal. It took the whole of 9 October to climb it and reach their camp on the Oceana Island Nordenskjold's ship 'Antarctic' departs from Gothenburg 16 October 1901. nunatak. Narrowly avoiding disaster the next glacier within the hour. With all of camp of the 17th, he could see that the day when Jonassen capsized the sledge them on foot the three men somehow coast beyond him ran away to the after letting the dogs plunge down into got the sledge across it, Nordenskjold south west, but the view to the west the huge bergschrund surrounding the in the lead and sinking through a snow held the promise of an infinitely more Seal Island nunataks, they reached the bridge up to his armpits every now dramatic discovery. northern side of Castor Island, the and then with the others helping the Like De Gerlache he was convinced southernmost one, the following night. dogs drag the load. of the existence of Dallmann's Finding a gentle slope back up to the Crossing a wide valley beyond it Bismarck Strait. Assuming the sound shelf surface and a good following they scaled another ice face by a snow ran on to the north west, and knowing wind helped them make good progress ramp and dragged the sledge up a long that was the very direction of the on 12 October, only to be held by a day slope of hard blue ice to reach the foot "vaste baie ou detroit" on Lecointe's long blizzard. Starting south west in of a volcanic nunatak projecting almost charts which De Gerlache believed better conditions on the 14th three 1000ft above the ice. After six hours of might be the real strait, Nordenskjold remarkable days in the annals of relentless going, once saved by the concluded that the two were sledging ensued, during which they sledge alone from destruction in a connected, although he was sure the covered some 57 miles — 19 a day by crevasse, Nordenskjold stepped on to passage would never be navigable, (a) Nordenskjold's estimate using his solid ground, the first man to set foot As it would so often do, the pedometer, for they had no on the coast that had defied every other Antarctic had deceived the eye of its sledgemeter, relying entirely on attempt to approach it. beholder, not a little aided by the allure Sobral's fixes using an artificial Forced to move camp twice that of discovery. It was to fall to the horizon, which the weather prevented night as a veritable tempest descended French, fourteen months later, to spell

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE an end to Nordenskjold's hopes and Lockyer Island after three days. There Seymour Island rookery. Camping move the elusive 'straif further into the weather looked menacing so they near it with Ekelof and Jonassen the the southern mists, there to remain an all voted to continue despite having slaughter began on 5 February 1903, enigma that would draw the Canadian covered 23 miles on the third day. Nordenskjold wishing the ship would aviator Sir Hubert Wilkins southward Carrying on up the Sound they arrived arrive so they could put an end to it. to pursue its quest, a quarter of a in a completely exhausted state at Little did he realise that the century later. 1.30am on 4 November to rouse their Antarctic, fatally holed on 11 January As he returned to his camp that day, surprised comrades fast asleep in the was a bare 12 miles from them, help 20 November 1902, Nordenskjold hut. The Falklands dog collapsed, lessly locked in the pack with seven faced the formidable challenge of how doubtless permanently weakened for pumps going day and night to keep the to accomplish the rest of his goals he was soon killed by his erstwhile water down. without any pemmican for the dogs. harness mates, while Sobral fainted A week later Larsen and his ship Starting on their precarious run back to after they had eaten, and Nordenskjold mates were afloat on an ice floe. Their the depot camp with the coast always nearly did so while helping him into ship sunk, twenty souls with two boats invisible, Nordenskjold was haunted, his bunk. and seven tonnes of stores and posses as Scott would be nearly three months The Swedish university lecturer was sions were fighting northward towards later, by fear of missing the sledge that well pleased with what they had the coast of Dundee Island and the tiny carried their only means of survival. achieved, in spite of the twin blow to pimple of Paulet Island, agonisingly However all went well and, once his plan through lack of seals and distant beyond an obstacle course of arrived, Nordenskjold recalculated the Jonassen's injury that undoubtedly led grinding pack. rations to see what they would be able to the demise of the sealmeat bag. Joined by Gunnar Andersson before to do. The dogs would have to be fed Travelling some 30 miles from the land he sailed, Larsen's winter marine on the men's pemmican, and an they had discovered some 65 miles of survey and geological programme at acceptable reduction in their own coast never seen before, and gone on to South Georgia had yielded the first ration could provide the dogs with locate, though not survey, 80 miles of fossil remains found on that island. But 8ozs daily. That ought to allow them to the coast south of Robertson Island, the by the time he brought the Antarctic follow the coast provided the weather peaks of which Larsen had sighted back to Port Stanley, the senior zoolo held. As though in response, the next nine years before. Gradually gist Axel Ohlin had been so seriously day dawned brilliantly fine, their first approaching the first 45 miles of it they ill that he had to return to Sweden, good day since leaving the Robertson had gone on to sledge very close to the where he died a year later. Island camp. rest, even if they could not see the last Sailing again on 6 September 1902, Being north of the big glacier they crucial stretch. Finally they had actu once more to have her coal replenished had crossed it was too late to see the ally set foot on it and he had seen what at Ushuaia, the Argentine government 6500ft skyline at its head and so missed he believed was the elusive Bismarck also paid for the ship's bottom to be the chance of realising that the Strait. scraped and the overhaul of sails and Richthofen Valley Nordenskjold At first confident that Larsen would rigging before she left again on 5 mistook for the Bismarck Strait was soon arrive, the weeks that followed November, bound for the first proper only a stagnant overflow from a breach turned his satisfaction into a growing survey of the coast they had discov in its southern wall. suspense, punctuated for him only by a ered west of Astrolabe Island. Now there was the prospect of double fossil find on Seymour Island as Hindered by abnormally abundant getting ashore for rock specimens at a he visited it to look out for the ship. On ice Larsen had found the southern end prominent cape 16 miles ahead of 4 December he had first chanced upon of the Antarctic Strait blocked by heavy them. Just as Scott and his two fossilised bones which he immediately pack. Trying to pass east of Joinville companions would be, they were frus recognised as important — they Island, the ship was caught in the pack trated by a deep canyon in the ice shelf proved to be those of penguins some and carried 100 miles towards and had to sledge out eastward to clear 65 million years old — and then the Elephant Island, and then back again. it. To this day the cape bears the name much sought plant fossils that till then Andersson had by that time, 21 they gave it — Cape Disappointment. had eluded his greatest hope as a pale December, decided that the men at When 23 October dawned with thick ontologist. Little knowing that his find Snow Hill would have to be brought to fog they knew the chance of following was shortly to be eclipsed by his own the ship if they could not reach them by the coast had gone. Their survival second-in-command, the geologist 10 February, and that meant landing depended on heading direct for the Gunnar Andersson, his conviction that him and two others straight away to go island and when, a day's run from it, a they were significantly older than the round the mainland coast of Erebus two-day blizzard ate into their bones he had found was to be fully and Terror Gulf to start back with them reserves, they began to think they borne out. from Snow Hill if the ship did not would have to kill the sheepdog to feed Early in January he realised the ship arrive in time. Selecting Duse as navi the others. But 30 October was fine might never reach them that season gator and one of the Norwegian enough to pose no problems for their and began laying in seal blubber seamen, Toralf Grunden, who had descent to the sea ice at their old camp, because their coal was totally inade been ashore with him at South where plentiful seals ended their quate to see them through the winter, Georgia, the party had to be landed at worries. as was their food. They would have to the glacier bay Nordenskjold had Aided by a makeshift sail and a stiff undertake the grisly task of killing and pointed out on the west side of following wind they were back at skinning about 400 Adelies at the Antarctic Strait.

18 Vol 16 No. 7, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE

The three men were landed on 29 Realising they had only two tents and but subtracting his 57 miles estimate December with two months' supplies none too much food with which to for the subsequent advance to the for nine men. Much of the gulf was survive an Antarctic winter (they had depot camp from Sobral's position for frozen and they had no need to follow assumed plentiful numbers of seals it implies only 12 miles on the 11th the coast but were stopped by open and penguins), they started to build a with the wind directly aiding them. water as they neared Admiralty stone shelter to move the larger tent (It is altogether more likely the Sound. Meanwhile Larsen had worked into. mileages were the other way round, his way south past Joinville Island by The fortunes of the Swedish expedi e.g. 15 on the 11th and 12 on the 18th. New Year's Day 1903, only to be tion had reached their lowest ebb. Split That would place the depot camp in trapped once more in the pack. into three beleaguered parties, each 65°51S, south of the Eleven days later a huge crash had unaware of the others' fate, the tongue, the position adopted for this brought everyone on deck as the ice mending of their destiny was to weave narrative. Such a position is also fatally holed the ship, jamming itself a story infinitely more surprising than suggested by Nordenskjold's reference under the stern that was thrust bodily the harsh reception the Weddell to soon encountering "unpromising upwards about four feet. It had torn Quadrant had dealt them. ice" that persuaded them they would away a third of the keel but as though To be continued. "fall in with a new glacier" the day to compensate had promptly stemmed they started north from the depot on 22 the inrush of water. NOTES: October. There is no reference to such a It was the start of a month of being (a) The inlet De Gerlache believed surface in his account of the journey carried to and fro in the gulf which might be the real Bismarck Strait was south to it, which is consistent with the ended in the ship's doom in the early in 65 25S. Sobral's position fix for the direction of their approach from the hours of 12 February when the ice depot camp (65°48S 62°11W) suggests north east having avoided its outer parted and the pumps could no longer their advance in the teeth of the wind most crevasses. hold the water level down. Larsen had to the Borchgrevink Nunatak on 18 Outward or homeward bound foreseen her fate and by then two boats October was some 15 miles in 6 hours. weather conditions clearly prevented and a mass of stores were on the floe Despite the lighter load that would them seeing either glacier, let alone the beside her when the order rang out to have been altogether remarkable, 30 miles up the Leppard Glacier to its abandon ship. given their crossing of what must have summit, or Nordenskjold would have Only the day before the three men at been the Leppard Glacier tongue. understood the nature of the Hope Bay, as they had named the Nordenskjold does not record the Richthofen Valley with its seemingly glacier bay where they had waited mileage on the 11 October first day's flat surface curving into the latter about since the day after the ship was holed, march from the Castor Nunatak (east 10 miles from him as he photographed had given up hope of the ship's return. ernmost of the so-called Seal Islands), it from the Borchgrevink Nunatak.) BOOK REVIEW South Pole: 900 Miles on Foot

By Gareth Wood with Eric Jamieson many different ways and had he absolute leader was a catalyst for Published by Horsdal and Schubart, 1996. written about the long polar nightmare trouble. Swan was the inspiration and 226 pages, $25 soft cover. immediately on his return (as two of 'sponsor-getter' for the project whilst Available from The Polar Bookshop his companions did) the description Mear, an experienced mountain guide, Reviewed by Sir Ranulph Fiennes would doubtless have been as bitter as was the practical field leader. The two theirs; full of recriminations and accu irritated one another. Nor did they In the summer of 1996 I meet Gareth sations. decide who was to be the third man on Wood for the first time in Whistler, The passage of ten years between the their polar team until shortly before British Columbia. I was there with Dr polar journey and Gareth's narrative final departure. Mike Stroud and three other members has enabled him to distill the telling of Gareth Wood and Mike Stroud were of a British team entry for the Eco- it into a rationalized tale of a great left with a Damoclean sword hanging Challenge six-day mountain race. achievement where descriptions of over them through the long winter Gareth had heard of Mike's visit and human failings and unpleasantness are months. One of them would sooner or travelled up from Vancouver to say balanced and not vindictive. This later learn that they would be left hello. I felt I knew Gareth extremely makes for an interesting comparison behind: further dissention naturally well, through polar talk of his doings, with the original book, by the expedi resulted. Gareth tells it all with fairness and when I met him I was pleased to tion leaders Mear and Swan. and clarity but the reader is nonethe find him exactly as I had imagined, a Gareth tells of the mounting less wrapt with the inner furies and gentle giant with a quiet but forthright tensions in the polar base where he and frustrations of the five lonely men manner. His book "South Pole — 900 the four other team members spent a during that long winter of discontent. miles on foot" is a tribute to his ability winter close to Scotf s abandoned hut As an attempt to repeat Scotfs epic to forgive yet not forget. The expedi preparing for their own attempt to journey — the expedition was named tion which he describes was probably follow in Scotfs footsteps. The fact that "Footsteps of Scotf' and set out to the nastiest experience of his life in Gareth's team had no clear and travel unsupported at all times. Sadly,

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 19 Antarctic BOOK REVIEW on the , Mear, Swan the 1990's, Pole aspirations began to solo, using the latest type of kite and, and Wood met up by chance with an use hi-tech parawings and kites to sail- despite only four practice sessions in American scientific team and for two ski to the Pole and this is a very its usage, I managed up to 120 miles a days accepted quantities of their food. different kettle of fish to the manhaul day with minimal effort. To describe In Mear's own words "Gone was the effort of Gareth's journey. So long as ski-sailing as unsupported travel is knowledge that we were engaged sails only helped the man-hauler when generally acceptable among the polar upon an unsupported journey of a a following wind existed, very little fraternity but it is increasingly an magnitude that was unique". assistance could be gained and side anachronism for hi-tech sails allow Gareth and the other two did reach winds prevail over 90 percent of the sledge weights to be cut in half, effort the Pole but, unlike Scott, they did not way to the Pole. The latest parawings to be reduced accordingly and speeds attempt the return journey: they were now allow side winds to be harnessed to accelerate beyond the wildest flown out by US navy transport. as well and that puts a very different dreams of Scott and Co. Nonetheless their feat was a prodi complexion on the whole affair. Gareth's manhaul achievement was gious accomplishment for, despite the In 1993, with Gareth's old colleague scarred for him by the bitterness of the internal strife and hostilities, they Mike Stroud, I completed the first internal struggles of his team but he worked together to manhaul enor unsupported journey across the uses the benefit of ten long years of mous weights over some 900 miles of Antarctic continent. We used following reflection and the perspectives of hind often lethal terrain with no impetus but wind' upski-sails on those rare occa sight to tell a great story with insight their own stubborn willpower. sions when wind conditions allowed. and a shrewd eye for psychology. I Most subsequent journeys have The journey was difficult, the sledge highly recommend his book to anyone used wind-power to help pull sledges. weights started at 485 lbs each and we who enjoys true adventure and a hard- So indeed had Scott, Shackleton and used up to 10,000 calories each per day. won personal account of an epic Amundsun before them. However, in Then, in 1996, I tried the crossing struggle. Trial By Ice The Antarctic Journal of John King Davis EDITED BY LOUISE CROSSLEY

Bluntisham Books and Erskine Press 1997 £29.95, NZ$55.00 anyone not a seaman to realise all the risks one takes, pottering ISBN 1852970472. Reviewed by David LHarrowfield about an unchartered coasf'. In contrast to the AAE voyages, once initial problems of Dr Louise Crossley expedition and station leader at command were overcome, the Ross Sea Relief Expedition Australia's Mawson Station in 1991, is well known for her 1916-17, was a totally different operation. Already familiar excellent book Explore Antarctica, published by Cambridge with the region including McMurdo Sound, the voyage which University Press in 1995. relieved the seven surviving members of Shackleton's Ross Although not a specialist in Antarctic maritime history, Sea Party 1914-17, was accomplished without difficulty Crossley has completed the formidable task of editing and although Captain Davis was clearly affected by the loss of making available for the first time, the diaries of Captain John Lieutenant Mackintosh whom he had known from the King Davis. He was beyond doubt, the finest Antarctic Nimrod, Spencer-Smith and Hayward. mariner of the famous 'eheroic-era' of exploration 1895-1917. In Chapter 7 and 8 covering the first voyage of the British Antarctic historians have waited a long time for this book. The Australian New Zealand Antarctic Research Expedition 1929- diaries are presented chronologically and cover Davis's seven 30, Mawson was expedition leader and Davis was second in Antarctic voyages from 1907-30. command and master of the Discovery. Before even departing Davis who began his apprenticeship on a splendid full- London, there was disagreement between the two men. rigged ship the Celtic Chief, served as First Officer on the During the voyage problems with the handling of the ship, Nimrod in 1907-09. He left only a brief record of the British shortage of coal and Mawson's own agenda, led to consider Antarctic Expedition voyages which are nicely detailed in able tension throughout the expedition with the result that Shackleton's Lieutenant (Polar Publications 1990) and in the Davis refused command for the second voyage. "It has been a diaries of A.E.Harbord and H.B.Bull, held in Canterbury big strain", he wrote. Particularly interesting are Captain Museum Christchurch. It was Mawson's Australasian Davis's comparisons between the handling of the Aurora and Antarctic Expedition 1911-14 however, described by Davis as Discovery. Yet in time, the problems of the voyage were "my main life's work", which comprises about half of the forgotten and the two men became life-long friends. books content. In Chapter 3 is a very readable nautical account While Davis was a prudent man and as Crossley states a in which key elements of the Antarctic, the weather and ice, pessimist, hence the nick-name of 'Gloomy Davis', he also had dominate entries. "It is a wonderful sight this world of ice and a nice sense of humour. A professional man, he expected the sea" wrote Davis. But towards the close of the second voyage best and was highly respected by those who served under his (Chapter 4), and having turned north without Mawson, the command. He also showed considerable interest in the natural strain of being a captain on the Aurora in unchartered history of the Antarctic. His fascination and support for Antarctic waters, was beginning to tell. Davis recorded, "The science resulted in a comprehensive oceanographic record of trip has taken it out of me in a way I did not think possible..." the bathymetry, sediments, temperatures and biology of the and on the third voyage he added, "It is very difficult for Southern Ocean. Continued on inside back page

20 Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic FEATURE

Continued from page 4 stop the "Southern Ocean carnage" and said that the meeting informal discussion in the margins of the meeting between failed to effectively deal with the illegal fishing for the the countries most affected by the illegal fishing, and it was Patagonian toothfish. The New Zealand delegation's report recognised that the fishing problem was a major challenge to on the meeting was critical of time wasted on restricting legal the "credibility and workability of CCAMLR". Major discus fishing and pointed out the need for vigorous intercessional sion of the problem had to wait for the XVI CCAMLR work on the issues. This report also noticed the continued meeting in October 1997. The speed with which the problem tensions over sovereignty issues between Argentina and the has developed can be seen in how the subject of illegal, unreg United Kingdom and the problem that an adversarial tone of ulated and unreported fishing was i— —I an "EC versus the rest'" attitude gave added to the agenda at the meeting, to the meeting. and that fishing is now placed on the ■ T ~» % 1 Early indications are that fishing is agenda for XVII CCAMLR meeting J^C / x. ( continuing. There are reports of in 1998. / N. private Chinese companies building The CCAMLR Scientific Y* ^ \ ,so. two hundred fishing vessels to take Committee warned that toothfish i\/ advantage of toothfish stocks. stocks in the Southern Ocean faced '\\ Outside of CCAMLR those * Contracting Parties most affected by collapse because of illegal overfishing j and threatened the survival of B0< L.[. )• illegal fishing are meeting to discuss several species of seabird in the I \ \ 4 fi II ways of dealing with the problem of Southern Ocean. Additionally, the \ V- /7\y / illegal fishing. The East Antarctic illegal fishers are ignoring preventa- y^\ //~\ Coastal States (EACS) met in Cape tive measures that can reduce seabird ,20°' \. - / ^-i2o» Town in March 1998, and the topic deaths. The mortahty of seabirds in \ >^so^ ^K // was to be addressed in the margins of the unregulated fishery is probably at \/ 1 \ r r ^ ^ t h e n e x t m e e t i n g o f t h e Va l d i v a s least twenty times greater than in the ^/^ group. These states are motivated by regulated fishery and this is entirely self-interest as illegal fishing unsustainable for species of Ylie gQ) q t h r e a t e n s a p o t e n t i a l fi s h e r y f o r t h e i r Albatross and Petrel that are classi- — companies and has now occurred in fied as globally threatened. As well as these immediate most southern EEZ. These multilateral efforts will probably threats to toothfish and seabirds it was also recognised that include some discussion concerning surveillance regimes. "overfishing, illegal, unregulated and unreported at this Attempts at enforcement will be difficult, but the sheer scale moment constitutes a most serious challenge to the reputa of problem means interventionist methods can be only tion and credibility of CCAMLR as an intergovernmental partially successful. One problem here is that protection organisation for rational management of living marine action by one state can lead to a displacement of poachers into resources on a sustainable basis." other waters where enforcement is weaker. At the CCAMLR meeting the Standing Committee on If it can be proven that fish is being taken illegally from Observation and Inspection (SCOI) discussed possible waters where national law applies, the vessel owner and measures to resolve the problem of (1) unreported and unreg crew can be prosecuted and the vessel and its catch confis ulated fishing by non-Members, and (2) illegal fishing by cated. But if the fish come from waters off Antarctica where CCAMLR members. Discussion included inter alia, punitive a state does not have an EEZ, or if the vessel is from or re- measures aimed at removing the economic benefit of illegal flagged to a state that does not recognise a national territo actions and attempts at gaining information on the destina rial claim in Antarctica, then the problem of enforcement is tion market nations. Three specific Conservation Measures complicated by the Antarctic Treaty. The unresolved sover (CM) were passed: CM 118/XVI Scheme to Promote eignty claims in Antarctica and its current demilitarised Compliance by non-Contracting Party vessels with CCAMLR status mean that patrols to stop illegal fishing could be a Conservation Measures, CM 119/XVI Requirement for breach of the Treaty. This could potentially set off the sover Contracting Parties to Licence their Hag Vessels in the eignty issue that has been largely dormant since 1959. While Convention Area, and CM 120 XVI Prohibition on Directed in the past states have managed to work around the sover Fishing for Dissostichus spp. Except in Accordance with eignty problem; the addition of an economic incentive could Specific Conservation Measures. lead to a stronger expression of national self-interest. Also passed was a resolution on Vessel Monitoring From this there could develop a wider threat to the special Systems (VMS), 12 /XVI Automated Satellite-Linked Vessel ethos of the (ATS). If CCAMLR does Monitoring Systems. The VMS resolution failed to be a not deal with the fishing situation effectively then the Conservation Measure because agreement on mandatory problem may draw the attention of the ATCM. If CCAMLR is usage could not be reached, as some countries were worried shown to be impotent and the Antarctic Treaty does not about the timetable for implementation. The weaker resolu manage to resolve the problem then the ATS will be weak tion was a "significant disappointment" to New Zealand, ened. Its credibility would be reduced and the internal dissen which felt that VMS should not only be mandatory but sion created could hamper other ATS endeavours. This should be applied to all fisheries in the Convention area, not would be obvious if Antarctic Treaty Consultative Parties just the finfish fisheries. begin taking action independent of CCAMLR to protect their Despite these steps not all reaction to the measures taken national interests, or if other regional fisheries management by CCAMLR has been warm. The Royal Forest and Bird bodies take action to replace CCAMLR schemes with their Protection Society called on the New Zealand government to own efforts. Continued on page 24 Antarctic LEAD STORY

Captain thigh Smith, commander US Naval Support Force Antarctica and Colonel Graham Pritchard, vice-commander 109th Airlift Wing, Next' York Air National Guard, Detachment 13, US Air Force. Assistant Secretary of the Navy Cmdr Stotz presented service Robert Pirie Jr. medals to several long standing

Raw Admiral William Sulton, commander Naval Base The last commanding officer of civilian employees and was in turn Pearl Harbour, speaking at the NASU disestablishment NASU, Commander John Stotz, said awarded the Navy Gold Star for ceremony. he never imagined such an august outstanding service by Captain Hugh group would preside over his demise. Smith commander Naval Support Continued from page 2 He praised those who had given the Force Antarctica. Wilkes, Scott, Amundsen, Mawson, navy operation at Christchurch a Captain Smith said the ceremony Hillary, Shackleton and others spans reputation for efficient, friendly, marked the end of one segment of the the Mechanical Age which started service, "people to whom the job was command's history and signalled a with the introduction of aviation and more than a paycheck." new opportunity for even greater the use of technology to explore the The dedication and expertise of the achievement in the future of continent. military men and women of NASU Operation Deep Freeze. Chiang says it was the hard-earned had been "spot on", he said. The "Today is a sad day but one whose knowledge of the US Navy, gained in direction and "deck-plate leadership" time has come," he said, transferring building coastal and inland stations, of the US Army's terminal operations command of Operation Deep Freeze developing infrastructure and contingent "was the operating heart and the leadership of the US perfecting the use of aviation that of the unit." Radiomen had spent Department of Defense's forces in became the foundation that makes countless hours providing "flawless Antarctica to the Air National Guard. scientific effort possible today. round-the-clock service." Colonel Pritchard, of the Air Guard, The National Science Foundation Business relationships had been said the disestablishment of the Navy will continue to oversee and support more in keeping with "traditional unit was a significant and "perhaps the US Antarctic Program and "NSF's Kiwi hospitality than business." bittersweet day" for the officers, men support for scientific research in Antarctica remains as strong as ever," added NSF director Neal Lane in Washington DC. "We thank the Navy for decades of support, which has helped to advance research important to the future of our planet studies on the ozone hole, the stability of Antarctica's ice sheets and the dynamics of the Southern Ocean." The NSF adds that the monniker "Operation Deep Freeze" formerly referring to Navy logistics support, will now designate flight support by the Air National Guard of the US Air Force. The ceremony was attended by Rear Admiral William Sutton, commander Naval Base Pearl

Harbour/ commander Naval Cmdr John Stotz, Cmdr John Slotz salutes and signs off..."Fair winds Surface Group Middle Pacific and last commanding officer NASU. and a following sea".

22 Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 Antarctic LEAD STORY and women of Naval Antarctic Support Unit "as they conclude their era of noble service to the US Antarctica Program." "Their activity in Christchurch, the gateway to Antarctica, has sustained the flow of people and material destined for Antarctica and welcomed them home as they returned from the frozen South." "This is also a significant day for the 109th airlift wing and the New York Air National Guard which 23 years ago inaugurated our own journey into the world of polar support on the vast ice sheet of Greenland and the sea ice of the Arctic Ocean." New York Air National Guard Christchurch unit members welcomed at a reception held at the Visitor Centre, International Meeting the challenges that Antarctic Centre. (Picture: Susan Beeman). preserves the unique southern continent is "why we are here." which has assumed the Navy's role of "We in the Air Guard know we flying the ski-equipped LC-130 have a tough act to follow but follow it Hercules aircraft owned by the NSF we will." and the Air Guard. The 109th Air Wing of the New These big ski-planes are the back York Air National Guard already has bone of the USAP's ability to support 10 years of experience flying in the research across the breadth of the Antarctic. In the last several summers Antarctic continent. The LC-130s it has operated LC-130 ski-equipped ability to shuttle materials and people Hercules aircraft to supplement LC- to the South Pole will enable replace 130 operations by Antarctic ment of major parts of Amundsen- Development Squadron 6 (VXE-6), US Scott South Pole Station. Navy. This project now under way paves Beginning in the 1999-2000 austral the way for construction of a modern summer, the New York Air National scientific observatory that will stand Guard will be responsible for all US well into the 21st century. Many other LC-130 Hercules flying in Antarctica functions performed by the Navy for and between Christchurch-Antarctica. the USAP have been transferred to VXE-6 will complete its last season of civilian contractors, particularly Antarctica flying during the 1998-99 Antarctic Support Associates (ASA), austral summer and will be decom based in Denver, Colorado. Cmdr John Stolz confers a service medal to a civilian missioned in 1999. As an effect of the out-sourcing, the worker at NASU. The National Science Foundation compliment of US personnel stationed funds both VXE-6 and the Antarctica at Christchurch airport will drop from be drawn from the Air Guard and mission of the Air National Guard around 40 to 7. The personnel will all comprise a separate unit with respon sibility for all DoD support work in Christchurch. The unit will supervise all activities related to aircraft, flight line and ramp operations for the USAP aircraft and for weekly USAF Mobility Command flights to New Zealand. Around 18-20 local staff will be employed by ASA. Local companies will have the opportunity to win contracts from ASA on a continuous basis. The rebuilding of the South Pole station is expected to generate around 60 construction positions which will join 140 personnel stationed during the summer at the base, but buildings and materials are expected to be LC-130 of the New York Air National Guard at Operation Deep Freeze, Christchurch International Airport. sourced from the US.

Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 23 Antarctic GENERAL fotheringham TVNZ Hillary Series Video Wins Fellowship Special promotion The Winston Churchill Memorial Trust Board has recently announced With thanks to TVNZ, Antarctic is able to offer four readers the fellowships for 26 New Zealanders of chance to save $20 on their purchase of the collectors video all ages to travel overseas to carry out set of the "Hillary — A View from the Top" Series. The epic a wide range of research projects. One documentary series was recently screened on New Zealand of the fellows is former Scott Base television. Epics 1&2 and 3&4 have been amalgamated base manager, Brent Fothermgham, onto two videos to provide a comprehensive who will travel to Australia, South package of the outstanding programme. Africa, England and America. He will undertake historical research into the early ecological and cultural history of the New Zealand Sub-Antarctic Islands to support bi and sesqui- centennial commemorations, in the year 2,000, of their discovery and settlement. He will also investigate the potential for a World Heritage (Cultural) listing for the Auckland Islands.

Wilson of the Antarctic Does anyone know the whereabouts This Antarctic special double video set is available for of the original New Zealand paint only NZ$59.95 to the first four readers who write in. ings and drawings of Edward Wilson (The recommended retail price is NZ$79.95.) of the Antarctic? His nephew, Dr David Wilson, is keen to locate any Hurry! If the number of entries received is considerable, Antarctic non-Antarctic material relating to his his uncle's stay in New Zealand with may then get the opportunity to also offer late entries the video set at a discount. his wife Ory. David would be partic ularly interested to know of any Please post, fax or E-mail your name, postal address, phone/fax number letters written by Edward Wilson and and/or E-mail address to: Hillary Video, PO Box 3269, Christchurch, Ory while in New Zealand. New Zealand. Fax: +64 3 365 4255 or E-mail: If you can help, please contact: [email protected] Dr David Wilson 71 Myddelton Avenue Enfield Results of the AHT Lottery Middlesex EN14AQ United Kingdom The 14 day cruise for two into the Antarctic Peninsula area, donated by Orient Lines, operators of the tour vessel "Marco Polo" from Ushuaia in Argentina was David Wilson was recently in New won by Inez & Richard Vlaar of Wellington. They had a long standing interest in Zealand researching his Uncle's stay Antarctica and returned highly enthused about the experience and the work of the in this country on his way south to Trust. Antarctica with Scott.

Fish and Seabirds Threatened in the Southern Oceans Continued from page 21 conservation measures credible. As a first step CCAMLR Conclusion members must get their own houses in order. Establishing a Illegal fishing is a serious challenge for CCAMLR, it is not resource management regime in an area of biological uncer yet too late for action, but there is only a limited amount of tainty requires accurate scientific information which will take time before the 'piracy' exhausts the fishing stocks in the time to gather and collate into effective ecosystem models. Southern Oceans. It must not be distracted from the prob Meanwhile, a credible enforcement is necessary to reduce the lems facing it, and member states must be willing to allocate damage that the 'piracy7 in the Southern Oceans is causing to the resources necessary for the enforcement that will make a potentially sustainable resource.

24 Vol 16 No. 1, 1998 MEMBERSHIP

The New Zealand Antarctic Society You are invited to join - please write to: Overseas Branch Secretary, Inc., was formed in 1933. It comprises National Secretary, P O Box 404, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., New Zealanders and overseas friends, Christchurch 8000, NEW ZEALAND P O Box 404, Christchurch 8000, many of whom have been to the or Telephone: +64(0)3 377 3173 NEW ZEALAND Antarctic and all of whom are interested Facsmile: +64 (0) 3 365 2252 in some phase of Antarctic exploration, E-mail: [email protected] Subscriptions to Antarctic: history, development or research. Visit us at: NZ$45 New Zealand http://www.icair.iac.org.nz/news/nzas Airmail: Annual membership of the Society NZ$51 Australia and South Pacific entitles members to: The Antarctic All administrative inquiries should be NZ$54 North America and East Asia Journal, which is published each March, directed to the National Secretary. NZ$56 Europe, including Great Britain June, September and December. It is Inquiries regarding back issues can be NZ$60 Everywhere else unique in Antarctic literature as it is the made to the Back Issues Officer, at the Surface Mail: only periodical which provides regular above address. NZ$48 Australia and South Pacific and up to date news of the activities of NZ$50 North America and East Asia all nations at work in the Antarctic and Members should direct other inquiries NZ$51 Europe, including Great Britain Sub-antarctic. It has a world-wide circu to their local branch. NZ$51 Everywhere else lation. Secretary, Auckland Branch, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., Advertising rates: Full page colour $700 Members also receive a regular P O Box 8062, AUCKLAND 1035 Half page colour $400 newsletter called Polar Wliispers, an Full page B&W $300 annual Polar Log, which records the Secretary, Wellington Branch, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., Half page B&W $250 decisions made by the Society's Council P O Box 2110, WELLINGTON 6000 Inserts $300 at its AGM, catalogues of the Society's mailorder bookshop 'The Polar Secretary, Canterbury Branch, Advertising Enquiries: Bookshop' and occasional brochures New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., Advertising Manager, P O Box 2369 from the Society's 'Sales Stall'. Regular P O Box 404, CHRISTCHURCH 8000 Christchurch 8000, NEW ZEALAND meetings are held by the Auckland, Tel: +64 (0) 3 365 0344 Secretary, Otago Branch, Fax: +64 (0) 3 365 4255 Wellington, Canterbury and Otago New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., branches. P O Box 7083, 9030 Deadline: 20th of preceding month

Werner Giggenbach 1937 -1997 Trial By Ice

Continued from page 19 Continued from page 23 hours was Colin Monteath. Wearing a helmet and protec Although familiar with Captain Davis's two books, With tive clothing, and carrying a gas mask, he abseiled down on the Aurora in the Antarctic and High Latitude, both now out ropes anchored close to the halfway point on the inner of print, I found as I read Trial by Ice, it interesting to crater rim. He reached a point some 70m below the rim, compare some entries with those of Mawson (Mawson's but it was found that both descent and belay rope were too Antarctic Diaries Ed. Fred and Eleanor Jacka 1988). This gave short to reach the inner crater floor. This descent was made me a more balanced overview of two key personalities on the about 4p.m. An hour later Dr Giggenbach began the second voyages of the BAE, AAE and BANZARE (first voyage) descent, the belay point having been moved, and another expeditions. length of rope tied to the descent rope. He encountered no Louise Crossley has provided very useful introductory problems, but just as he was about to disentangle a length record of Captain Davis's career, and preliminary summaries of extra rope the eruption occurred, and a shower of and end notes for each chapter. The glossary is particularly volcanic debris, ranging from ash to "bombs" the size of useful although there were some terms and nautical expres footballs, rained down the inner crater wall. sions used by Captain Davis, which could have been A Z-pulley rope system had been installed on the main included. There is a simple yet very clear map on the front crater floor so that anyone could be hauled up from the and end papers and it was good to see unfamiliar illustra inner crater in 10 to 15 minutes. After a discussion by tions although the reproductive quality of some of these may portable radio the descent was called off, and Dr have been slightly better. Giggenbach was able to make a rapid ascent without any Bluntisham Books and the Erskine Press have again difficulties. produced a fine case-bound volume with attractive jacket, There was another eruption of similar size to the first at which will be an important reference work and enhance the 8.25pm when the party was leaving the main crater to polar literature. With facsimiles of polar classics now return to the summit camp. Once again the area was show becoming increasingly available, it is good to see another ered with lava "bombs" of all sizes. The eruptions, work with a strong nautical content. Trial by Ice is a very followed by high humidity and low visibility in the crater readable book particularly for those fortunate to have trav area, and later by high winds, prevented any more elled the Southern Ocean and is to be strongly recommended descents into the inner crater. for libraries and to all with an interest in Antarctic history.