ANTON PROCK

TYROL THE TRAVEL GUIDE ANTON PROCK THE TRAVEL GUIDE

TYROLIA-VERLAG · INNSBRUCK-WIEN INTRODUCTION TIROL So much to see – so much to do

Tyrol – land in the mountains in the heart tween mankind and nature. The harsh of Europe, farming region, center for climate and poor soil conditions com- tourism, with countless sport and leisure bined with inhumane legal regulations, opportunities in summer and winter- have often left its inhabitants struggling time, a transit state that has been of ma- to survive. Nonetheless, nature has also jor historic significance for centuries – a inspired the people. Tyrol is and has stunning and multi-faceted region. Visi- been home to countless artists, a num- tors may explore not only breathtaking ber of whom have left their traces in the nature, but also medieval towns, idyllic region, while others were forced to leave mountain villages, castles, , the area to pursue their passions else- churches and chapels. Those who want where. One only need think of Jakob to get to know this extraordinary region Prandtauer from Stanz near , better must also familiarize themselves who built Stift (Melk Abbey) in Low- with its past. er for example. During the course of its history, Tyrol has Anyone who lives in Tyrol often stops no- witnessed times of wealth and prosperi- ticing the beauties of the land. However, ty, but also of hardship and adversity. there are often many sights worth seeing The natural resources in Schwaz and in one’s very own hometown. A walk other areas of the region, alongside the around the nearby area or slightly further salt mining in Hall, have had a particu- afield, or a day trip to another part of the larly positive influence on the develop- region can be a true experience. Take ment of Tyrol. Furthermore, the traffic time out and go on a tranquil walk over the mountain passes and through through the forest in autumn, visit a cas- the major valleys was an important tle or take a pleasant stroll around one of source of income and resulted not least the medieval towns. Make your trip a in the emergence of many settlements. special experience! However, its history has also been This travel guide is written for both resi- marked by the plague, natural disasters dents and visitors to Tyrol. It intends to and countless wars. Furthermore, when give a concise yet thorough introduction taking in the many stunning sights of Ty- to all the areas of Tyrol. Particularly wor- rol one must not forget the struggle be- thy sights are highlighted and described Looking at Innsbruck – in the background the Serles, one of the famous mountains near the city in greater detail. Importance has been I was born and raised in this region. Tyrol placed on embedding this in the history is my home. A place that I love and am of the region: The aim is to present rela- proud of. I hope that this travel guide will tionships and connections, to underline prove a welcome companion for all deeper background knowledge. The those who wish to get to know Tyrol and guide also contains tips for leisure activi- share my passion for this land. ties, as well as important addresses, phone numbers and internet references Anton Prock to aid the reader. Jenbach, in April 2019 CHAPTER 1 AN OUTLINE OF TYROL

History, art, culture and much more

6 the sub-tropical Mediterranean region. GEOGRAPHY The West-East range holds back the cooler air masses coming from the north Population: 751,140 (2019) and the warmer air originating from the Population density: 59 inhabitants south as a general rule. 2 per km The western and northern areas of the 2 Area: 12,648 km state are frequently subject to Atlantic 2 (Austria 83,871 km ) influences, while the east has a more Dimensions: North-South 107 km, continental climate and the southern re- West-East 220 km gion (South and East Tyrol) has Mediter- Highest point: 3798 m (Großglockner ranean characteristics. A phenomenon mountain) that is particular to the alpine area is the Lowest point: 465 m (border at Erl) foehn, a warm, dry down-slope wind that State borders: 1042 km (of which with frequently occurs on the leeward side of Germany 343 km, Italy 303 km, the mountains. Wind speeds of up to Switzerland 59 km) 200 km/h can arise. This accelerates the State coat of arms: Red eagle with snow thawing in winter and spring. golden crown and green garland The snow line in the north sits at 2400– behind the head 2600 m, in the central Alps at 2800– State capital: Innsbruck 3200 m. Summers are relatively damp Districts (9): Innsbruck, Innsbruck- with maximum temperatures around Land, Imst, Kitzbühel, , 30° C, while autumn tends to be drier Landeck, Reutte, Schwaz, Lienz (East with good weather, and winter is snowy at Tyrol) higher altitudes. However, significant lo- Municipalities: 279 (North Tyrol 246, cal differences occur. East Tyrol 33) Climate change has resulted in rapid gla- Highest mountains: Großglockner cial melting in recent decades. The aver- (3798 m), Wildspitze (3768 m) age monthly temperatures in Tyrol are Largest lake: Lake Achen (“Achensee”) -2° C in January, 0° C in February, 5° C in 2 (6.8 km ) March, 8° C in April, 13° C in May, 16° C in Largest river: Inn (519 km, of which in June, 18° C in July and August, 14° C in Tyrol 212 km) September, 9° C in October, 3° C in No- Largest towns and municipalities: vember and -1° C in December. Innsbruck (132,493), Kufstein (19,223), Telfs (15,747), Hall (13,897), Schwaz (13,728), Wörgl (13,811), Lienz in East INTRODUCTION Tyrol (11,844), Imst (10,504), Rum ART (9190), St. Johann (9428) Thanks to its central location in the Alps, Tyrol has always served as a transit re- CLIMATE gion and has therefore always been open to exchanges with the southern Tyrol is situated in an area with a moder- (Italian) and northern (German, Dutch ate central European climate. The Alps and Bohemian) cultural areas. In the late form a climatic divide between central Gothic and periods, the Ger- Europe with its moderate climate, and man influence on Tyrolean art was par- 7

Wilten

ticularly strong; in the Renaissance, the 1000–1300) are also rare in North and Italian influence prevailed. Tyrolean art- East Tyrol. As a consequence of in- ists studied abroad and combined for- creased travel through the region and eign influence with their local style. the growing mining industry in the 15th Three epochs left behind intensive trac- and 16th centuries, the Gothic period es in North Tyrol: the Gothic, Baroque (circa 1300 – 1520) is heavily represented and Historicism periods. Today, count- in Tyrol. Italian influences in Tyrol origi- less village churches and chapels still nate in particular from the Renaissance attest to the relative prosperity of the re- period (from roughly 1520), largely as a gion in those times. However, the small transitional style. Much like the Gothic number of large monasteries (Wilten, period, the Baroque era (around 1610 – Stams and Fiecht) did not have a particu- 1770) with the late part of the Rococo larly significant influence on the artistic period spawned countless artworks. landscape. During the 19th century numerous From 1420, important influences came churches were constructed in, or con- from the Innsbruck Imperial Court – and verted to the Historicism style in the in particular from the art-loving rulers Tyrolean Oberland in particular. Their INTRODUCTION Emperor Maximilian I, Archduke Ferdi- interior design is referred to as the Naza- nand II, Archduke Maximilian III, and rene style. The turn of the 20th century Archduke Leopold V and his two sons. witnessed the arrival of the Art Nouveau Settlements in Tyrol in pre-Roman and Heimat style movements. The pe- times are readily traceable thanks to the riod between the two world wars saw numerous archeological finds in the re- construction in the sober New Objectiv- gion. In contrast, the Romans them- ity style. The relocation of the govern- selves left very little trace. Works of art ment seat from Merano to Innsbruck in from the Romanesque period (around 1420 and the start of mining for silver 8

Freundsberg Castle in Schwaz

and copper in Schwaz and other Tyrole- near Innsbruck and Kropfsberg castle on an regions around that time brought the route out of the Zillertal valley. Mi- about a cultural heyday. This was the chael Pacher (around 1435–1498) and Gothic period. The mediaeval towns of Marx Reichlich (1460–1520), both from Kufstein, Kitzbühel, Rattenberg, Hall in South Tyrol, and Jörg Kölderer (around Tyrol and Innsbruck are examples of the 1470–1540) are just a few examples of Inn-Salzach Style. The towns were the countless painters from that era. Be- home to prosperous citizens, the Inns- tween the Gothic and the Renaissance bruck Imperial Court was a hub for art- periods (from roughly 1500), Tyrol expe- ists. Various Bauhütten (associations of rienced a period of prosperity under Em- tradesmen) constructed large and richly peror Maximilian I, who gave his name to furnished churches, which were the the Maximilian transitional style. This pride of local citizens alongside the town can be seen for example in Tratzberg halls and town houses. Significant Goth- Castle, the Golden Roof, countless town ic buildings in Tyrol include the parish houses and the Court Church (“Hof- churches in Hall, Schwaz, Kitzbühel, kirche”) in Innsbruck (1553–1563), the Imst, Seefeld and St. Leonhard near cloister of the Franciscan monastery in Kundl. Castles had been built to protect Schwaz, as well as various small art- INTRODUCTION the land back in the Romanesque peri- works and handicrafts (for example the od, and these were subsequently con- St. George’s altar in ). The verted during the Gothic era. Notewor- most significant Renaissance building thy examples include Friedberg Castle in Tyrol is Ambras Castle (1564–1583). near Volders, Petersberg Castle and The new zeitgeist of the Baroque era in Laudegg Castle in the Oberinntal Val- the 17th and 18th centuries brought with ley, as well as Hasegg Castle in Hall and it the modernization of countless Matzen Castle near Brixlegg. Many of churches and houses in the new Ba- these only remain as ruins today, for ex- roque style, alongside the construction ample the once-mighty castles in Thaur of new buildings. Members of the 9

Relief on the Golden Roof in Innsbruck

Gumpp family were renowned builders Abraham Millauer (1680–1758, Ebbs at the time. In Innsbruck, Christoph parish church) to name but a few. Jakob Gumpp (1600–1672) was responsible for Prandtauer (1660–1726), born in Grins structures including the Mariahilfkirche near Landeck, is considered one of Aus- church, the Comödienhaus which stood tria’s most important Baroque archi- where the Congress stands today, and tects. He was responsible for Melk Ab- the new construction of the Wilten mon- bey in , as well as parts of astery and collegiate church. His son, Kremsmünster Abbey and St. Florian Johann Martin Gumpp the Elder (1643– Monastery in . 1729) erected the hospital church and The Tyrolean Oberland in particular pro- the former Ursuline Church, alongside duced many skilled painters and sculp- numerous residences in Innsbruck, in- tors, who were unable to find work in their cluding the Ferraripalais and Taxispalais. homeland and therefore left their marks His son, Georg Anton Gumpp (1682– in other Austrian states, as well as neigh- 1754) left behind him the Altes Land- boring southern Germany and Switzer- haus and St. John’s (“Johanneskirche”) land. Tyrol’s most famous painters have church in Innsbruck, and converted the included Anton Zoller (1695–1768) from Stams Abbey. Georg’s brother Johann Telfs, and members of the Zeiller family Martin Gumpp the Younger (1686–1765) from the Reutte . Steinach-born INTRODUCTION began with the conversion of Innsbruck’s painter Martin Knoller (1725–1804) left Imperial Palace. In addition to this, Tyrol behind him numerous altarpieces and produced many other master builders, frescoes in Anras parish church, the mon- including the priest and amateur master astery church of St. Charles Borromeo builder Franz de Paula Penz (1707– (“Klosterkirche zum Heiligen Karl Bor- 1772, church in Neustift in the Stubaital romäus”) near Volders and in the Paris valley, Wilten Abbey Basilica, etc.), Franz hall of the Taxispalais in Innsbruck. Singer (1724–1789, Götzens, Ranggen, Sculptor Matthias Bernhard Braun Unterperfuss parish churches, etc.) and (1684–1738) from Sautens in the Ötztal 10 CHRONOLOGY An outline of Tyrol’s history

30,000 BC The first traces of human 1490–1519 Emperor Maximilian I settlement (Tischofer – Tyrolean heyday (around Cave near Kufstein) 1500 Golden Roof) ca. 5000 The lifetime of Ötzi, 1525 The Great Peasants’ War years ago the Iceman – influence of the 15/14 BC The alpine countries were teachings of Martin Luther conquered by the Roman 2nd h. 16th Renaissance – reign of generals Drusus and century Archduke Ferdinand II Tiberius – construction of Ambras 6th/7th Migration (Völkerwande- Castle (Schloss Ambras) centuries rung) – invasion of the 17th century Archduke Maximilian III Bavarians, Slavs and the Grand Master of the Alemanni Teutonic Knights– Archdu- 11th century Bishops from Brixen and ke Leopold V – Claudia de’ Trento become territorial Medici – influence of lords (“Landesherren”) Italian art and culture –Je- 12th century Rise of the Counts from suit Church (“Jesuitenkir- Tyrol and Andechs che”) –Leopold Fountain 1180 Establishment of (“Leopoldbrunnen”) Innsbruck by the Counts of 1665 End of the Tyrolean line of Andechs the House of Habsburg 1248 Core of today’s Tyrol is in 1669 Foundation of the the hands of the Counts of University of Innsbruck Tyrol for the first time 1703 The Bavarian Rummel 1238–1295 Count Meinhard II – – invasion of the Bavarians expansion of Tyrol, – St. Anne’s Column promotion of trade and (“Annasäule”) commerce 1765 Maria Theresa in Innsbruck 1363 Under Countess – wedding of her son Leo- INTRODUCTION Margarete Maultasch, pold to the Spanish Tyrol passes to the princess Maria Ludovica Habsburg Duke Rudolf IV – Triumphal Arch ca. 1410 successfull mining for (“Triumph pforte”) and silver and copper begins in Imperial Palace (“Hofburg”) Schwaz 1805–1814 Tyrol under Bavarian rule 1420 Duke Frederick IV of the – Napoleonic campaign of Empty Pockets choses conquest – 1809 four battles Innsbruck as the seat of at Bergisel hill with Andreas government Hofer as commander 11 valley produced statues including those on the Charles Bridge in Prague. As a form of folk art, Baroque found its way to the most remote valleys in the state. Lo- cal artists created altars, statues, paint- ings and countless other handicrafts and small pieces of art. The painter Joseph 19th century Start of tourism – con- Anton Koch (1768–1839) from the dis- struction of the railways – trict of Reutte, who settled in Rome and industrialization subscribed to the Classicism and Ro- 1914–1918 First World War manticism styles, was famed far beyond 1919 After the end of the First the borders of Tyrol. During the 19th cen- World War, division of Tyrol tury, Historicism was widely popular. (South Tyrol to Italy, North Churches were converted to this style, and East Tyrol to Austria) while others were newly built according 1939–1945 Second World War – Tyrol/ to it. At the same time, past styles were Austria as part of the taken up again and interpreted anew. The German Reich result was churches in the neo-Gothic 1945–1955 After the end of the and neo-Romanesque style, while nu- Second World War, France merous town houses in Innsbruck exhibit as occupying power in Tyrol the Baroque Revival style. 1955 Treaty – freedom of One subscriber to Romanticism was Austria – reconstruction East Tyrolean painter Franz von De- 1964 Winter Olympics in fregger (1835–1921) with his historical, Innsbruck – the Diocese of landscape and decorative pieces, who Innsbruck is established had a strong influence on Albin Egger- 1976 Winter Olympics in Lienz (1868–1926). However, Egger- Innsbruck Lienz heavily embodied the spirit of 1998 The Tyrol–South Tyrol– symbolism and expressionism al- Trentino Euroregion is ready. The 20th century also produced formed important artists. As a painter, Alfons 2008 Innsbruck is one of the Walde (1891–1958) selected similar sub- venues of the European jects to Albin Egger-Lienz, and as an ar- Football Championship chitect he designed the stations of Kitz- 2012 The first Winter Youth bühel’s Hahnenkammbahn cable car. Olympic Games are held The architect Clemens Holzmeister in Innsbruck and Seefeld. (1886–1926) from Fulpmes in the Stu- INTRODUCTION 2013 After the state elections in baital valley gained an international rep- April, Tyrol elects a coalition utation for his work including the festival of the ÖVP (Austrian halls in , the parish churches of People’s Party) and Green Pertisau, Erpfendorf, Allerheiligen in Party for the first time since Innsbruck and Bruckhäusl near Wörgl, the Second World War. and also left his mark in Ankara. Also 2018 The UCI Road World famed beyond the state’s borders are Championships are held in the painter Max Weiler (1910–2001) and Tyrol for the first time. illustrator Paul Flora (1922–2009). 12 FORTRESSES, RUINS AND CASTLES IN TYROL

Tyrol is richly studded with fortresses, can also be traced back to the ministers castles, ruins and manors, which are (inferior nobles who served the sover- tightly connected with the history of the eigns). They were granted ownership of region. These structures are landmarks the land by the sovereign, which they of our cultural landscape. Castles are then cultivated and defended with the typical medieval buildings that are de- help of the farmers. signed with security and defense in As a result of this, many castles resulted mind. Essentially, these are habitable from disputes between the ministers or fortifications. They are always built on with their sovereigns. Over the course of rock formations and hills, and are sur- history castles fulfilled a wide range of rounded on at least three sides by steep tasks, such as monitoring important traf- terrain. The structure is usually accessed fic routes, for example the Inntal Valley. on one side by a reinforced entrance. From them, it was easy to monitor nar- Such buildings are referred to as elevat- row points, valley incisions, rivers, etc. ed castles. Examples of these include Many of these former routes have now the Rottenburg Castle above Rotholz disappeared. Today, Klamm Castle on near Jenbach, and Petersberg Castle the Mieming Plateau stands abandoned, near Silz. although it once protected the salt road Tyrol has very few castles directly in the from the Inntal Valley in the direction of valley. Lichtwerth Castle near Brixlegg the Fern Pass. Castles were often the sits on a low hill on the valley floor, and seat of the jurisdiction, represented by the Inn river surrounded it at one time the authority of a judge and jurist. The and it was therefore a moated castle. The supreme judge was safe here, and it was most important parts of a castle that are also home to the jail. Important docu- seen most often are the outer bailey and ments, archives and money were stored main castle with crenelated walls, tower here, and the ruler could also find ac- gates and drawbridges, various court- commodation here. INTRODUCTION yards, the keep (“Bergfried”) as the high- Castles also served as bases for hunting est and most heavily fortified tower, the trips (for example under Emperor Maxi- great hall as living quarters, the bower as milian I). It was for precisely this reason family’s personal living quarters, kitch- that Archduke Sigismund the Rich in en, chapel, spiral staircases, courtroom, Coin had many castles constructed, such prison, armories, stables, farm build- as Sigmundslust near Vomp, Sig- ings, workshops, and more besides. The mundsburg on Lake Fernstein and Sig- Tyrolean sovereigns (“Landesfürsten”) mundsried in the Oberinntal valley. had these fortifications built to protect Castles stood for prosperity, wealth and the land. However, numerous fortresses power, although they were also often 13

Schrofenstein Castle near Landeck centers for music, literature, and fine be found in northern Italy. Only one such arts, for example the ‘Minne’ singers and structure can still be found in North Ty- the decoration of many fortresses with rol, the Kufstein Fortress. The others paintings. were abandoned under Holy Roman The transition from fortress to castle took Emperor Joseph II. These included the place around 1500, during the time of once mighty Ehrenberg Fortress on Emperor Maximilian I. A great example the southern edge of the Reutte basin. of this is Tratzberg Castle, which was de- Fortresses were usually broad and low, stroyed by a fire around 1500 and was with round towers (turrets) and poly- subsequently rebuilt as a castle. When gonal defense installations. weaponry became increasingly ad- Of major importance were precise calcu- vanced, the significance of castles lations of the canon trajectories and a waned. Castles increasingly became small offensive area for attacking foes. It prestigious residences of the nobility. A was intended that as few soldiers as pos- clearly discernible difference between a sible could defend a fortress from a large castle in the sense of a “Burg” and a castle superior force over an extended period in the sense of a “Schloss” or “château” is of time. A number of barriers at the end the heightened demand in the latter for of valleys (“Klausen”) in the 16th and 17th INTRODUCTION more comfortable living and a greater century also exhibited a fortification-like desire to display wealth and status, as character, for example the Lienzer well as the regularity of the layout (in con- Klause. Smaller manors were also con- trast to the former with its rather disjoint- structed in Tyrol from the Renaissance ed and incoherently linked structures) period, often serving as comfortable and the organization of the facade. residences for various courtiers. Exam- In the 16th century, fortresses were built ples of these include Aschach near with broad earth walls that could with- Volders, as well as Büchsenhausen and stand the new weaponry. Examples can the Weiherburg. CHAPTER 2 INNSBRUCK

At the heart of Tyrol