BIHAR & JHARKHAND 549 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Nalanda Sonepur Mela Patna Bodhgaya National Park Betla (Palamau) ( p567 )

Nalanda Nalanda ( p560 ) ( p551 ) – Bodhgaya Bodhgaya Betla (Palamau) National Park Betla (Palamau) Sonepur Mela ( p552 ) an event that makes Pushkar’s camel fair that makes camel fair Pushkar’s an event look like a Sunday market Patna ity organisations around ity organisations of the within the forest ( p565 ), an ancient seat of learning p565 ( fair at the livestock past among the fascinating ruins at Mahabodhi temple, then take a meditation Mahabodhi then take a meditation temple, in class at a Buddhist monastery ( p557 )

its oddities and Buddha ashes, then shop for Mithila Museum, with paintings in Patna Visit at one of the local schools or char- Volunteer Glimpse a tiger from atop an elephant deep Plug your nose and wade into India’s largest up the ghosts of pupils from the Conjure Soak up the essence of Buddha at the serene

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

Unfortunately, the twin states of Bihar and Jharkhand are one of India’s poorest and and of Bihar and Jharkhand one of India’s poorest Unfortunately, the twin states are After a controversial vote in the Indian Parliament in August 2000, Bihar was split along in August Parliament in the Indian vote a controversial After

don’t be put off. This is India, barely diluted by tourism and all the more intriguing for it. by tourism and all the more diluted is India, barely This don’t be put off. economically prosperous ‘new India’. All this keeps it well off most travellers’ radars, but keepseconomically prosperous ‘new India’. All this it well off most travellers’ erate and most lawless parterate of India – maligned as a basket and the antithesis of the case warfare, kidnappings, extortion, the least lit- violence, Bihar remains banditry and Naxalite most troubled regions. Wracked by widespread government corruption, sporadic intercaste corruption, sporadic intercaste government Wracked widespread by most troubled regions. the forest’s depths in search of an elusive tiger. of an elusive depths in search the forest’s the state’s best-kept secret is Betla National Park, where you can ride atop an elephant into where is Betla National Park, secret best-kept the state’s and lush forests, Jharkhand though in east India, and lush forests, is notable as the key Jain pilgrimage site tribal lines, creating the new southern state of Jharkhand. the new southern state Home to numerous waterfallstribal lines, creating shrines and temples at nearby Rajgir, and the great Ashokan pillar at Vaishali. Ashokan at Vaishali. pillar and the great at nearby Rajgir, shrines and temples can visit the extensive ruins of Nalanda, one of the ancient world’s first universities, the many Nalanda, one of the ancient world’s first universities, ruins of can visit the extensive soak up the powerful you and modern Buddhist sites, Following a trail of ancient ambience. with international monasteries and attracts devotees from around the world to meditate and from around the world to meditate and attractsdevotees monasteries with international Buddhist pilgrimage site in the world. Little more than a rural village, Bodhgaya is peppered is peppered than a rural village, Bodhgaya in the world. Little more Buddhist pilgrimage site attained enlightenment beneath a bodhi tree at Bodhgaya – making beneath a bodhi tree significant it the most attained enlightenment and spiritual history. Siddhartha Gautama – the Buddha – spent much of his life here and and spiritual history. Siddhartha here – spent much of his life Gautama – the Buddha The birthplace Bihar occupies an important of Buddhism in India, place in India’s cultural The Bihar & Jharkhand & Jharkhand Bihar BIHAR & JHARKHAND 550 (10km) To Gorakhpur Varanasi To (44km) P RADESH BIHAR &JHARKHAND Kushinagar U TAR P RADESH M ADHY IA HRHN BIHAR &JHARKHAND To Pokhara (47km)

Sasaram Ganges River 28 Wildlife Sanctuary

Valmiki Nagar Buxar River Ghaghara Bayaha

Gopalgarj Dehri Daltonganj River Gandak Narayanghat

Mugling Grand Trunk Grand River Son Bettiah Raxaul Betla (Palamau) Netarhat Arrah Chapra National Siwan Barabar Naubise Park

Caves Sagauli

Bodhgaya Rd (GTR) Rd Kesariya

Rourkela Tribh Birganj Bela Lohardaga Motihari Sonepur uban Hwy Gaya Amlekhganj J HARKND Patna 23 Hazaribagh Lalganj Vaishali National Chakia Park Sitamarhi KATHMANDU Cave Temples Dungeshwari Rajgir Macluskiganj 23 Hajipur Springs Muzaffarpur 30 Hot Ranchi Jaleshwar Nalanda Khunti Hazaribagh 33 Bihar Sharif Hazaribagh Road 31 Hundru 28 Falls Train Station Pawapuri 2 6 Chaibasa Samastipur Darbhanga Lalbiti on thismaphavenotbeenauthenticated 33 Kendujhargarh The externalboundariesofIndia Madhubani Jaynagar Jamshedpur Ganges and maynotbecorrect. Giridih Parasnath N EPAL O RISA Madhuban Munger B IHAR Saharsa Sikayi Dhanbad Bhagalpur 60miles 100km 0 0 Deoghar Baleshwar Jogbani B ENGAL Asansol

W EST River Dharan Bazaar Biratnagar Purnia Godda Bankura 31 lonelyplanet.com Katihar Bengal Kakarbhitta Kharagpur Bay of To Kolkata (113km) SIKKIM 34 BIHAR & JHARKHAND 551 2345776; goitopatna@ % (

(http://jharkhand.nic.in/tour (www.discoverbihar.org.in) in Patna. Also try the following web- Also try the following in Patna. India tourism office million (Jharkhand) (Jharkhand) 26.9 82.9 million (Bihar), Population: 173,877 sq km Area: (Bihar), Ranchi Patna Capital: language: Hindi Main When to go: October to March FAST FACTS FAST „ „ „ „ „

Foreign tourists are not specific targets and not specific targets tourists are Foreign ite activity only adds to the region’s reputation reputation activity only adds to the region’s ite in the country. While as the most dangerous state authorities play down the law-and-order and local atti- problems, newspaper reports is a long way to go towards there tudes suggest cleaning up these states. any trouble, you won’t encounter are chances but it’s a good idea to split up your valuables Bihar State Tourism Development Corporation (BSTDC; http://bstdc.bih.nic.in) Bihar Tourism Jharkhand Tourism ism/tour.htm) Dangers & Annoyances lawlessness general and poverty The extreme busesin Bihar and Jharkhand and can make for dacoits (bandits), targets cars hire private who periodically use mock accidents and has also There roadworks to stop vehicles. been an alarming rise in banditry and violence increasing an aboard trains, despite reported and Naxal- Growing Maoist military presence. is the sites: vsnl.net) (Mar; Patna, p554 ) Patna celebrates its historic past with parades, sports,Patna dancing and ) p554 (Mar; Patna, (24-26 Oct; Rajgir, p563 ) At the Indian Classical Performing Arts Indian folk dances Festival, p563 (24-26 Oct; Rajgir, (Oct/Nov; Bihar statewide) Biharis line river which pays respects banks to celebrate this festival, (Nov/Dec; Sonepur, p556 ) With 700,000 devotees and countless thousands of animals taking p556 (Nov/Dec; Sonepur, •• History & JHARKHAND BIHAR

are performedare along with devotional song and instrumental music. music. part, this three-week is four times the size of Pushkar’s festival largest and most camel fair and easily the region’s odoriferous festival. Sonepur Mela Chhath Festival FESTIVALS IN BIHAR & JHARKHAND & JHARKHAND IN BIHAR FESTIVALS Mahotsava Pataliputra Mahotsava Rajgir to Surya, the Sun God. At sunset on the sixth day after married Diwali, women, having fasted for two days, partially immerse themselves in nearby rivers offering baskets fruits and flowers to the deity from bamboo over a minimum two-hour period. The following sunrise, devotees to the river return and celebrate with prayers and traditional music.

Bihar was part of the Bengal Bihar was part of presidency Bihar continued to be coveted by a suc- Bihar continued to be coveted History History practical information on Bihar and Jharkhand every major town, they are uniformly useless town, they are every major – if staffed at all! The most helpful place for Information Information in tourism offices state are Although there became Orissa and, most recently in 2000, became Orissa and, most recently Jharkhand. under the British Raj until 1912, when a sepa- later state this of was formed. Part state rate until 1197. of the Guptas (4th and 5th centuries AD), of Bengal, of who ruled followed by the Palas cession of major empires until the Magadha until the Magadha empires major of cession dynasty rose again to glory during the reign ple in Bodhgaya ( p558 ) and the lion-topped ) and the lion-topped p558 ( ple in Bodhgaya ). p556 ( pillar at Vaishali Pradesh). In Bihar, Ashoka built the original built In Bihar, Ashoka Pradesh). Tem- today’s Mahabodhi of shrine on the site pillars throughout India – notably northern pillars at (Madhya Sarnath (Uttar and Sanchi Pradesh) Ashoka later embraced Buddhism, building later Ashoka his famous Ashokan stupas, monuments and putra, which is rumoured to have been the to have is rumoured putra, which Emperor city in the world at that time. largest empire. His grandson, Ashoka, succeeded him His grandson, Ashoka, empire. from Patali- empire and ruled the Mauryan taliputra (now Patna), he expanded to the the he expanded to taliputra (now Patna), Indian great the first and created Indus Valley BC, seized power Chandragupta Maurya after kingdom and its capital Pa- the Magadha of Buddha. The life of Mahavira, a contemporary a contemporary Mahavira, of The life Buddha. was Jainism, of Buddha and the founder of 4th century In the with Bihar. also entwined Prince Siddhartha Gautama arrived in Bihar in Bihar Gautama Siddhartha Prince arrived century BCduring the 6th many and spent enlightened as the leaving before here, years lonelyplanet.com BIHAR & JHARKHAND one of citiesforalmost India’smostimportant also calledPataliputra homeanditremained Emperors Maurya Chandragupta andAshoka prophecy thatagreat here. citywouldarise gir toPataliputra (Patna), fulfillingBuddha’s ofcapital theMagadha kingdomfromRaj- Ajatasatruthe 5thcenturyBC, shifted his the Ganges Patna between andHajipur. one of theworld’slongest river bridges, spans Rajgir. The7.5km-longMahatma GandhiSeti, the Buddhistsites of Vaishali, Kesariya and forvisiting base andauseful hub forthestate butit’samajorworthwhile sights, transport river andPatna itself hasonlyahandfulof Varanasi, there islittleof interest alongthe fluence withthree major Unlike tributaries. polluted Ganges, justeastof theriver’s con- area onthesouthbankof theswollenand spreadsBihar’s busycapital outover avast % PATNA BIHAR p1131. see in Bihar. potholed duringtherest of theyear,especially duringthemonsoonandpainfully unpassable onthenorthernfloodplains,arecially those have localnewsinEnglish. .com) and before arriving: after dusk.Alwayscheck situation thesecurity if makinglongjourneysandavoid travelling 552 Patna in wasonceapowerfulcity.Early Flooding ensures thatmanyroads,espe- For more issues, informationonsecurity ‘Love him orloathehim,you can’tignore LalooPrasadYadav’. and hasbeencredited withmanyimprovements totherailsystem. As Laloo continuesto live thehigh-profilelife fortheIndiangovernment ofRailways asMinister as popularever. Althoughhiswife wasreplaced aschief minister byNitishKumarin2005, illiterate wife Deviaschiefminister. Rabri littletimebehind barsandisnowback Heserved husbandry programme. Hestepped down,andina move thenation,heplaced his thatshocked until 1997,whenhewasarrested millionsofdollarsoutananimal- andaccusedofmilking descendedintobloodycasteunder hisruleandBiharactually warfare. Heremained inpower of Biharin1990.Despite beingaself-proclaimedchampionofthepoor,littleimproved forthem mobilise themassesofhislow-caste brethren andastonishallbyrising tobecomechiefminister where high-caste landowners have traditionally hadastrangleholdonpower,Laloomanagedto politician, LalooPrasadYadav inastate. Althoughbornintoalow-caste familyofcattle-herders, No chapter onBiharwouldbecomplete withoutmentionofIndia’smostloathedandloved LALOO –LORDOFBIHAR 0612 /pop1,285,470 IA • Pta BIHAR ••Patna Patna Daily Bihar

Times (www.patnadaily.com) (www.bihartimes commonly used. Rd, respectively, theoldnamesare stillmore Haque Path, Braj Kishore Path andJal Prakash Rds are renamed beingofficially Muzharul teeming olderChowkarea totheeast. ipur, whilemostof thehistoricsites are inthe hotels are inthewestern half,knownasBank- airportand 15km. Themaintrainstation, the southernbankof theGanges forabout The oldandnewerpartsof Patna stretch along Orientation Patna. of submersed inKumrahar,asoutherndistrict 1000 years. Theruinsof this ancientcitysit Readers Corner Readers BOOKSHOPS Information shops. toAjanta,oneofPatna’s8pm Mon-Sat)Next bestbook- Although Fraser, Exhibition andBoring Exhibition Fraser, Although terrorists were termed Naxalites. Naxalbari, andfromthatdaytheguerrilla WestBengalvillageof ing inthenorthern occupied landandstagedabloodyupris- During thespringof1967,peasantcadres less labourers andAdivasis(tribalpeople). and India’spowerbaseonbehalfofland- struggle forlandreform againstlandlords groups whocontinuetowageaviolent this term isusedforvariouscommunist alien speciesinanupcomingsci-fimovie, Though thename suitanwould perfectly WHO ARETHENAXALITES? ( % 2225958; FraserRd; Indiatimes lonelyplanet.com oncestated, h 10am- BIHAR & JHARKHAND

B4 553 C2 A3 C2 C3 D1 C1 Path 23

17 18 19 20 21 22

10am-

Rajendra Ashok Raj Path Raj Ashok To Khuda Baksh h Kolkata (533km) Qila House (12km) D Oriental Library (1km); 21 Har Mandir Takht (11km); 5 To Ruins of Pataliputra (3.5km);

10am-5pm Mon-Fri, till Kankerbagh Rd Kankerbagh Gandhi 2345776; goitopatna@vsnl 2225411; bstdc@sancharnet Maidan 1 h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm 22 % % 3 12 ( ( EATING SHOPPING TRANSPORT Ajanta...... Gandhi Seti...... Gandhi Maidan Bus Stand...... Indian Airlines...... Bansi Vihar...... Bellpepper Restaurant...... (see 14) Samarat...... Takshila...... (see 18) Garden Court Club Restaurant..(see 10) Autorickshaw Stand for Mahatma Mithapur Bus Station......

h Ganges River Ganges Braj Kishore Path (Exhibition Rd) 10 Rd) (Exhibition Path Kishore Braj 15

7 SP Verma Rd Verma SP 8 6 ὈὈ ὈὈ 14

(Buddha Marg; 00 0.5 miles 1 km

Station Rd Station

19 16

Path 20 Haque (Fraser Rd) (Fraser

harul Muz 17 2 13

.in; Hotel Kautilya Vihar, Birchand Patel Path; .in; Hotel Kautilya Path; Vihar, Birchand Patel 5pm Mon-Sat) This office has limited information, but can help book tours and government accommodation in Bihar. Dangers & Annoyances Dangers & Annoyances during safe perfectly are streets While Patna’s 8pm, as walking alone after the day, avoid POST POST Post office TOURIST INFORMATION BSTDC tourist office India tourism office Sat) This 3rd-floor office is very helpful and knowledgeable Bihar and Jharkhand.about Patna, 2pm Sat) .net; Kankerbagh Rd; Buddha Marg Buddha Dak Bungalow Rd

Mandir

Mahavir Rd Kankerbagh

Danapure Rd Marg Buddha Police Station 9

Train Station Patna Junction (104km) 4 To Bodhgaya 9.30am- Bankipur 23 B h

24hr) (Gardiner Rd) (Gardiner h C2 C2 A3 C2 C2 C2 C1 D2 C1 C1 C1 B2 D2 C2 C3 B3 24hr) Emergency room,

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 24hr)

16

10 11 12 13 14 15 Birchand Patel Path Patel Birchand Mithapur Khagaul Rd Khagaul Mithapur h h 11 2226134; Gandhi Maidan; (Hotel Windsor, Exhibition Rd; 18 %

East Boring Rd ( •• Patna BIHAR

(Dak Bungalow Rd; (Station Rd; 7am-10.30pm) Canal Rd Canal AC (Rajendra Path; per hr Rs 20; (Rajendra Path; h

Jal Prakash Rd

New Amar Hotel......

INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Gandhi Museum...... Golghar...... Patna Museum...... Readers Corner...... (see 19) Readers Corner...... (see Cafe...... (see 14) Rendezvous Cyber Stone Clinic...... State Bank of India...... State Bank of India ATM...... (see 11) BSTDC Tourist Office...... (see 11) BSTDC Tourist Office...... (see Cyber World...... IDBI bank ATM...... India Tourism Office...... Post Office...... Ruban Memorial Hospital & Ratan ICICI Bank ATM...... (see 12) ICICI Bank ATM...... (see SLEEPING Hotel President...... Hotel Windsor...... Maurya Patna...... Garden Court Club...... Hotel Akash...... (see 16) Hotel Kautilya Vihar...... Hotel Magadh...... Hotel Maharaja Inn...... (see 12) Hotel Ambassador...... (see 12) Circular Rd Circular To Airport (5km) 2320446; Gandhi Maidan; 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, and till 1.30pm Sat) Currency PATNA 2 3 1 4 % 9pm) per hr Rs 30; h travellers cheques exchanged. State Bank of India MONEY MONEY ICICI Bank ATM IDBI Bank ATM Ruban Memorial & Ratan Hospital Stone Clinic MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Rendezvous Cyber Cafe Cyber World INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS lonelyplanet.com ( clinic and pharmacy. BIHAR & JHARKHAND of GandhiMaidan. gurus,was bornin1660. It’s 11kmeast Sikh where thelastof GuruGobind Singh, the 10 and finelatticeworkmarkthespot staircases est. Itsminiature marble domes, sweeping shrine mayhem of Patna’s Chowkarea isthis a Behind grand gate andsheltered fromthe HAR MANDIR TAKHT you’ll have totake theirwordforit! of Buddha’s ashes,retrieved fromVaishali – ket tobesome withinasmallstupaisbelieved of inatinycas- theBuddha’:behindaglasscase the‘Relic must payanadditionalRs500tosee there’s more. Upstairs inalocked galleryyou ellers entryfee, but maybeputoff bythehigh ingly influencedbyIndianfrescoes. Sometrav- Tibetan paintingoncloth),which were interest- are 17th-century several eared goatkid!Upstairs there and eight-legged a large crocodileandabizarre gharial three- collection of animals,includingtigers, stuffed tuous Yakshini. Inanothergalleryisamotley celebrated, larger-than-life of statue thevolup- Mauryan periods,including the andGupta lection of stonesculptures datingfromthe h ( and Rajput-inspired exterior, this the Behind vibrantbutdecayingMughal- PATNA MUSEUM pictorial historyof theMahatma’s life. admission free; diminutive leled viewof thecityandGanges. Nearbyisthe side anddowntheother,leadtoanunparal- designed sothatworkers couldclimbupone (250steps each side), dual spirallingstaircases famine –fortunately required. itwasnever Its ing arepeat performanceof thevicious1770 the Britisharmyin1786,hopeof avoid- and bulbousbeehive of agranarywasbuiltby a shortwalkwestof themaidan.Thismassive landmark of Foradomewithview,headuptothe sights. large, flatparkarea aroundwhich are acouple Just southof theriver, GandhiMaidan isa GANDHI MAIDAN AREA Sights &Activities ables, which couldencourage theft. still take care andavoid carryingbagsorvalu- robbery canbeareal problem.Groupsshould 554 % 10.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) 2235731; Buddha Marg; Indian/foreigner Rs5/250; 2235731; BuddhaMarg; IA • Pta BIHAR ••Patna

( % 2642000) Golghar h Gandhi Museum Gandhi 10am-6pm Sun-Fri) , oneof thenation’sfourholi- (Danapure Rd;admissionfree;

houses asplendidcol- houses thangkas (

% , which contains a , which a contains 2225339; Danapure Rd; 2225339; Danapure Rd; (rectangular (rectangular museum h 24hr) Sikh Sikh ,

1900 and contains arenowned1900 andcontains collectionof site’s historic past. Festivals &Events lovely gardensanda Theruins/pondsare surroundedbyBC). andAshoka (321–297BC) (274–237 dragupta periods of Ajatasatru Chan- (491–459BC), have fromthe ancient capital foundevidence are submerged year-round. Excavations of this scuba gear –ground-water ensure levels they foreigner Rs5/100; While historic, these RUINS OFPATALIPUTRA by thefailingeyesof KingGeorge III. picked out garish CrownDerbydinnerservice Marie Antoinette’s Sèvres porcelainandthe short bedof NapoleonBonaparte. Lookfor silverwareMughal-period tothehumorously flows withantiquesrangingfromelaborate ( This intriguing andeclecticprivate MUSEUM)QILA HOUSE(JALAN inscribed inabookonly25mmwide. theQuran paintings,andeven and Rajput Arabic andPersian manuscripts,Mughal admission free; This fascinating KHUDA BAKSHORIENTAL LIBRARY ing parades,sports,dancingandmusic. with Patna honours March itshistoricpastevery % of Patna. homes aroundMadhubani, 160kmnortheast Original wallpaintings canstillbeseenin and textiles forsaleincities suchasPatna. professionally producedonpaper,canvas and strongprimarycolours,are nowbeing events ofeveryday and aspects life. mythology, often intermingled withspecial women painted localdeitiesand scenesfrom minerals, charcoalandvegetable matter, the their marriage. Usingpigmentsfromspices, on thewallsoftheirhomesfromday creatingvillages started stronglinedrawings ally, wives fromMadhubaniandsurrounding (orMadhubani)paintings.Mithila Tradition- Bihar’s isits unique andmostfamousfolkart MITHILA PAINTINGS 2641121; JalanAve; Pataliputra Mahotsava These paintings,inbothblackandwhite h h 9am-5pm Sat-Thu) library 9am-5.30pm) h museum ruins

( by appointmentonly) % , acelebrationfeatur- 2300209; Ashok Raj Path;2300209; AshokRaj

(Kankerbagh Rd;Indian/ (Kankerbagh are bestvisited in was foundedin lonelyplanet.com that details the thatdetails museum over-

BIHAR & JHARKHAND is 555 ) Fine (savoury noon-3.30pm & Locals crowd ias h raan-e-takshila (tandoori chicken (tandoori chicken masala dosa ) This intimate, con- This intimate, 2220590; Hotel Chanakya, 2220590; Hotel Chanakya, ) 3096229; SP Verma Rd; mains 3096229; SP Verma

Based Chana- in Hotel (Exhibition Rd; mains Rs 50-200; a % a % ( Few places are as enjoy- places are Few (

220304059; www.maurya.com; South www.maurya.com; 220304059;

%

( (Fraser Rd; mains Rs 30-70)

(Hotel Chanakya, Birchand Patel Path; mains Rs Path; (Hotel Chanakya, Birchand Patel 6am-11pm) Takshila noon-11pm;

From the solid furniture and exposed From the solid furniture h h murg tikka lababdar tikka murg noon-3.30pm & 7-11pm; Samarat Garden Court Club o Bansi Vihar Bellpepper Restaurant MauryaPatna a whole leg of mutton marinated in spices and in spices mutton marinated a whole leg of in the tandoor for at least 45 minutes. cooked Chanakya. Also in Hotel Shopping the best places in Bihar to buy is one of Patna ). opposite Mithila paintings (see pistachio and cashew nut paste) is divine, is divine, pistachio paste) and cashew nut and Hyderabadi biryanis and Afghani dishes the menu with Chinese specialities. No share is served.alcohol 130-225; kya, this is an elegant dining experience, with Indian, Chinese and continental served dishes in a bright and busy restaurant. mains Rs 80-375; Path; Birchand Patel 7.30-11pm) on brick décor to the succinct menu printed exudes the ambience wood, Takshila of a slab The speciality is West Frontier. the North of Mughlai, Afghanmeat-heavy and tandoor dish dishes – the signature hotels, especially Maurya Patna and Hotel Chan- and Hotel Patna especially Maurya hotels, also has a comfortable bar. akya; the latter to restaurant into this spotless air-conditioned South Indian enjoy cheap Chinese friendly service. specials and crepe), h Windsor is in the Hotel restaurant temporary popular for its sublime tandoori specialities. The Gandhi Maidan; from Rs 2800/3500; s/d are and luxurious surroundings appointments business hotel. top found throughout Patna’s (Rs pool gardens host a tempting The large two good are and there 350 for nonguests), tastefully are Rooms and a bar. restaurants centrally air-conditioned. furnished and Eating & Drinking Busy Fraser Rd, between the train station and street main shopping Dak Bungalow Rd, is the bars. and a few and is lined with restaurants out the big check best restaurants, For Patna’s and chillies, green with garlic, ginger, basted Rs 35-80; able for lunch or dinner as this plant-filled, this plant-filled, or dinner as able for lunch serving terrace, open-air rooftop and Indian Chinese dishes. The The •• Patna BIHAR ) Next door to Hotel ) In the same vein 220325058; www.hotel a 2225411; bstdc@sancharnet a % (

2321292; Station Rd; s/d Rs 2209200; s/d from Rs 450/500, % 3096229; SP Verma Rd; s/d from 3096229; SP Verma /fax 2321903; Station Rd; s/d ( 2224157; s/d Rs 170/246) 2224157; s/d Rs Midrange comfort at a comfort at a Midrange ) This family-run hotel is This family-run hotel ) 2321278; Station Rd; s/d Rs 350/500, 2321278; Station Rd; s/d Rs 350/500, % % ( % ( % (

%

( a ( a % 2239599; d Rs 250) If the New Amar

(

% Rooms in this thoughtfully de- ( With only six rooms, the Garden ) Hotel Windsor ) This sprawling government hotel hotel This sprawling government ) a a

ia Also recommended:

o Hotel President Hotel Kautilya Vihar Hotel Magadh Rs 350/500, with AC Rs 650/750; Magadh and nearly identical. 350/500, d with AC Rs 750-850; as the Ambassador and Magadh(and street) but with the bonus of a 24-hour checkout. Hotel’s full, try its neighbour Akash with similar facilities. range choice. range woodwork, spotless bathrooms and AC woodwork, spotless bathrooms and AC top mid- throughout, making this Patna’s windsorpatna.com; Exhibition Rd; s/d/ste Rs 900/1100/ Exhibition Rd; s/d/ste Rs 900/1100/ windsorpatna.com; 1350; décor, fine contemporary offer signed hotel and close to Patna Museum. Rooms are sim- Museum. Rooms are and close to Patna value with TVple, clean and reasonable and hot water. bucket with AC Rs 750/900; Fraser quiet location off Rd in a relatively open-air garden restaurant. open-air garden restaurant. rooms all have AC and there’s a communal there’s and AC rooms all have draw is the lovely but the biggest lounge, in a small shopping complex. Comfortable complex. in a small shopping MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Garden Court Club Hotel Maharaja Inn Hotel Ambassador Hotel Akash restaurant and bar and eager staff. eager and bar and restaurant The six-bed cramped. dorms are .in; Birchand Patel Path; dm Rs 75, d Rs 500-700, with AC dm Rs 75, d Rs 500-700, with AC Path; .in; Birchand Patel Rs 800; and all rooms have TVand all rooms have and hot water. Patna. The singles are small with squat toilet The singles are Patna. bright spacious, and clean, but the doubles are with AC Rs 600/750; in the best value this hotel price makes budget Rooms are simple and cleanish. Rooms are New Amar Hotel several New Amar is the best of bright-green a small lane off down Fraser hotels Rd. budget BUDGET BUDGET of accommodation choices, mainly around accommodation choices, of Fraser and Station Rds. Sleeping Sleeping has plenty the city of half western The modern Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book has a range of rooms that are clean and spa- rooms that are of has a range a but there’s atmosphere cious. It lacks much Court Club is an intimate hotel tucked away tucked hotel Court Club is an intimate 600/800; BIHAR & JHARKHAND best selection of best selection Mithilapaintings.Although 11.30am, 3.30pmand9.35pm). (sleeper/chair Rs 170/370,10hours, Ranchi 101/142, 3½hours, 11.30amand9.35pm) 65/112, five hours), Rs Gaya(sleeper/chair runtoVaranasiservices Rs (2ndclass/sleeper daily Rs 195/549,nineto12hours). Several andSikkim;sleeper/3ACiguri, forDarjeeling 12 to16hours) andfourtoNewJalpaiguri (Sil- 11 hours), 10toDelhi(sleeper/3AC Rs321/905 (sleeper/3ACto Kolkata to Rs218/615,eight line,thereKolkata are dailytrains aroundeight office. 7 inthe1st-floor reservation a foreign-tourist ticket counter atwindowNo Patna Junctionisachaotic butthere’s station TRAIN dark. asfewearly start drivers willoperate after kilometre (minimum200km).Arrange an forRs6.5per office canarrange thisservice the day.Mosthotels andtheIndiatourism for visitingKesariya, Vaishali orNalandafor Hiring acaranddriver isaconvenient option CAR and 10pm). hours, (Rs109,eight dailyat9.15am Raxaul 10 hours, fourdaily)andtheNepalborderat (Rs170, gotoRanchi ernment busservices hours). (Rs100,eight Raxaul (Rs180,10hours, 8pmand9pm) Ranchi (Rs50,fourhours,hourly), Rajgir hourly), toGaya(Rs50,threeinclude buses hours, referred Services toas‘thenewbusstand’. 2km southof andissimply thetrainstation, occupiesalarge,Station) dustyspaceabout (MithapurBusThe newmainbusstation BUS cheaper internet fares toDelhiandKolkata. (US$73). Ranchi to Delhi(US$124),Mumbai(US$172)and Indian Airlines AIR Getting There&Away Rs 300. range of from unmounted paintingsstarting bronzes, theownercanshow youawide most of thestockondisplayappears tobe h 556 Ajanta Although alittlewayoff themainDelhi– Although From theGandhiMaidan gov- busstand 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) IA • Snpr BIHAR ••Sonepur

( %

( % 2224432; Hotel Satka Arcade,FraserRd; 2224432; HotelSatka 2222554; Gandhi Maidan) 2222554; Gandhi Air Deccan Comehere forPatna’s (www.airdeccan.net)

flies daily fliesdaily offers offers a dormitory. a BSTDC rooms,aswell as hotel, hasbright ( day mahout(elephantrider/master). Elephant form of transport?Mark Shand’s 100,000. Consideringpurchasing analternative change handsforanythingfromRs10,000to more thanmeresee bovines –elephants forsale cattle fairtakes placeatHaathi bazaar. You’ll batheintheGangestees whileAsia’s largest mous tale. Duringthisauspicioustime,devo- (www.sonepurmela.com) of Kartik Purnima,thethree-week November/December,Each onthefullmoon ephants) andlordsof thewater (crocodiles). thelordsoftoric battlebetween theforest (el- Sonepur iswhere Vishnuendedtheprehis- According totheGajendra Moksha legend, % SONEPUR form of transport. cycle-rickshaws are Patna’s mostplentiful Maidan (Rs3).Forshort trips, busstand andGandhi thetrainstation forth between costaroundRs180. while taxis Autorickshaws to/fromthecitycostRs80, The airportis7kmwestof thecitycentre. Getting Around and agleaming a small Buddha’s asheswere recovered. Nearbythere’s astupa where3km away,contains of an eighth year-old Ashoka pillar. of Anotherset ruins, remarkable isthenoblelionatop2300- (Indian/foreigner Rs5/100; where todaytheruinsof the Buddhapreachedraised. here, hislastsermon final Jain It’s alsowhere LordMahavira, the24thand one of theworld’sfirst democratic republics. In Vaishalithe 6thcenturyBC, washome to % VAISHALI direct toSonepur shouldcostaroundRs150. nearMahavirstand Mandir. Anautorickshaw south sideof fromthe theMahatma GandhiSeti Ganges. Shared autorickshaws (Rs5)runtothe bridge Mahatma spanningthe GandhiSeti % Sonepur is25kmnorthof Patna acrossthe BSTDC inPatna operates Shared autorickshawsshuttlebackand Hotel Amrapali Vihar AmrapaliVihar Hotel 06225 06654 2225411; dm/dRs50/1000) museum is essential reading isessential forthemodern- tirthankar

(admission Rs2; Japanese Peace Pagoda beginstocelebrate theinfa- (teacher), wasbornand h ( % duringthefair. dawn-dusk) 229982; dm/dRs70/250) h temporary cottages temporary lonelyplanet.com 10am-5pm Sat-Thu) Kolhua Complex Travels onmy lay.Most Sonepur Mela . ,

BIHAR & JHARKHAND 557 7am-10pm Mon-Sat) h train runs daily from Kolkataruns daily from train (Bodhgaya Rd; 0631 / pop 30,883 The best time to visit is October through

Monasteries and temples, built by interna- and temples, Monasteries Information BOOKSHOPS Kundan Bazaar tional Buddhist communities, are peppered peppered are tional Buddhist communities, to study, meditate around and attract pilgrims is not Bodhgaya the ambience. and absorb a town as a true Buddhist working so much and rural vil- surrounded by farmland centre accommo- of but it has the best range lages, and the attendant dation and eating in Bihar and tourist paraphernalia accumulation of stalls. souvenir pilgrims come down when Tibetan March, becomes a from Dharamsala and Bodhgaya Lama himself The Dalai sea robes. maroon of here. spends December and January often Mithila Express Mithila Rs 256/723/1037) to Raxaul (sleeper/3AC/2AC 8.25am. 3.45pm and arriving at departing at BODHGAYA % world are from around the Buddhist pilgrims 26 centuries It was here, Bodhgaya. drawn to Siddhartha Gautamaago, that Prince attained and so beneath a bodhi tree enlightenment tem- serene A beautifully became the Buddha. that a descendent of ple marks the spot and its roots hap- remains, original Bodhi Tree the same pily clutching soil as its celebrated ancestor. Great selectionGreat of novels and Buddhist literature. 221148; Main Rd; %

( Hotel Kaveri •• Kesariya BIHAR , which has the cleanest rooms. , which

06255 / pop 41,347 Visas Visas available at the border, with two passportNepali visas are photos and payment in US dollars. Onward Transport Onward Transport away. From here 5km It’s a Rs 30 autorickshaw from Raxaul’s bus or train station to Birganj, buses to Kathmandu direct to 500, eight hours) and Pokhara (Rs 250 are (Rs 250 to 500, there 10 hours). Foreign Exchange Exchange Foreign and has an ATM. Bank of India in Raxaul rupees and major currencies will change Indian State The on the Nepal side of the border. also available in Birganj facilities are Foreign-exchange Border Hours only available from 5.30am side, but visas (US$30) are border is open 24 hours on the Indian The to 8pm on the Nepali side. CROSSING INTO NEPAL CROSSING INTO NEPAL Sporadic shared jeeps between shuttle Ke- Sporadic shared

There are several early morning buses are from There Regular buses run to/from Hajipur and and busesRegular Hajipur to/from run Raxaul to Patna (Rs 100, eight hours). The (Rs 100, eightRaxaul hours). to Patna d from Rs 250) are places to hang around. If you must spend are the night, head to Raxaul, virtu- a grimy, crowded border town, is in Nepal. Neither ally a twin town with Birganj RAXAUL RAXAUL % in Patna and make it a long day trip. and make in Patna on the potholed highway between Patna and on the potholed highway between Patna Raxaul, accommodation but due to a lack of a car and Chakia, most people hire in Kesariya sariya and Chakia (Rs 25, one hour), which is sariya and Chakia (Rs 25, one hour), which Buddhist tantric diagram with a cir- mandala 425m. of cumference From above, the nine uniquely shaped terraces terraces the nine uniquely shaped From above, exposed)(seven gargantuan form a currently vealing what’s likely the world’s 2nd-tallest the world’s what’s likely vealing period. from the Pala Buddhist stupa, dating nature. Each year archaeologists continue continue Each year archaeologists nature. re- veil, forested lush, nature’s to remove an enthralling juxtaposition of history and an enthralling juxtaposition of KESARIYA KESARIYA the where the earth, out of Rising 10 storeys his beggingBuddha donated bowl, is dying catch a shared autorickshaw to the south side to the south side autorickshaw a shared catch Gandhi Seti Mahatma from and another of way to is the best in Patna Hiring a car there. a day. in and Kesariya visit Vaishali Muzaffarpur. To reach Hajipur from Patna, Patna, from Hajipur To reach Muzaffarpur. lonelyplanet.com BIHAR & JHARKHAND Temple; h Emergency roomandclinic. BSTDC Tourist Complex BSTDC Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST BankofIndia State MONEY Centre Verma Health Care MEDICAL SERVICES CyberCafe Vishnu Dhaba Internet Magadh ACCESSINTERNET Bookshop Mahabodhi 558 and travellerscheques. ATM acceptsforeign cards. h than dustybrochures. Rd &Temple St; Rds; complex; goodrangeofBuddhistliterature. 21 1 3 2 BODHGAYA 35 19 8am-9pm) 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, till1pmSat)Bestratesforcash 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, h INFORMATION aahItre hb...... C2 Magadh InternetDhaba...... Vishnu CyberCafé...... (see39) Verma HealthCareCentre...... Vajrabodhi SocietyOffice...... State BankofIndia...... Middle WayTravels...... Main PostOffice...... Mahabodhi Bookshop...... Kundan Bazaar...... (see28) BSTDC TouristComplex...... Airport (8km) IA • Bdgy BIHAR ••Bodhgaya Meditation Centre(4km); To BodhgayaVipassana h 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pmSat) 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Great BuddhaStatue...... Daijokyo Monastery...... Chinese Monastery...... Burmese Vihara...... (see42) Bodhi Tree...... (see17) Bhutanese Monastery...... Archaeological Museum...... 25 5am-9pm) Insidetheentrancetotemple AC h

( Bodhgaya Rd Bodhgaya % 10.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) Littlemore (BodhgayaRd;perhrRs30) ( % 2200472; cnrBodhgaya&Godam 26 ( 13 15 % ( (BodhgayaRd;perhrRs40; % 2200852; BodhgayaRd; ( 2200735; Mahabodhi 2200735; Mahabodhi 1 % 16 33 12 2200672; cnrBodhgaya Temple St 10 ὈὈ ὈὈ 24 14 2201101; 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Buddha Rd 28 C1 B3 B2 C2 C2 C2 B2 29 13 12 11 10 9 7 31 A3 B3 B2 B2 B2 Kalchakra Bodhgaya Rd 11 23 Maidan B h 6 otIsiuefrWso utr. A2 Root InstituteforWisdomCulture.. Vietnamese Monastery...... Thai Monastery...... Tamang Monastery...... Samanvay Ashram...... Nepali Monastery...... (see23) Namgyal Monastery...... Maitreya School...... Mahabodhi TempleEntrance...... Mahabodhi Temple...... Karma Temple...... International MeditationCentre..... Indosan NipponjiTemple...... 32 9 24hr) Playing Field 39 36 Park Cave Temples(11.5km); 34 To PrajnaVihar 38 To Dungeshwari 30

School (50m) Gaya (13km) 20 Jayewardene Rd Jayewardene 2 Muchalinda 22 cheques exchanged, book exchange, ticketing andcarhire. cheques exchanged,bookexchange,ticketing of Bodhgaya’stravelagencies. Currency andtravellers Almost oppositethetempleentrance,thisisbest BodhgayaRd; [email protected]; Middle Way Travels WayTravels Middle TRAVEL AGENCIES 72 BC), have survived amidthe replicas. have survived 72 BC), the temple, datingfrom theSungaperiod (184– the originalsculpted stonerailings surrounding image of Buddha. aseated Amazingly,fourof the ornate structure gilded a2m-high houses last in1882.Toppedbya50mpyramidal spire, the temple underwentmajor restorations, the being razedby11th-centuryMuslim invaders, Emperor Ashoka almost800years earlier. After century ADatopthesite of atemple erected by 20/300; Temple Mahabodhi life, isthemagnificentWorldHeritage–listed lightenment andformulated hisphilosophyof cent to thespotwhere en- Buddhaattained The spiritualcentrepiece of Bodhgaya, adja- MAHABODHI TEMPLE Sights &Activities 40 17 3 1km 0.5miles 0 0 41 Station Lake Police The Mahabodhi Temple wasbuiltinthe6th 18 8

27 42

5

Godam h Rd Bodhgaya Rd 4 5am-9pm) 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 Bridge Sujata 37 A2 B2 B2 C1 B2 A2 C2 C2 B3 A2 B3 Falgu River TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING uoikhwSad...... C1 Autorickshaw Stand...... Gaya Buses&Autorickshaws...... Tibetan RefugeeMarket...... Vishnu Restaurant...... (see39) Swagat Restaurant...... (see30) Royal Residency...... (see35) Original Pole-Pole...... (see37) Om Restaurant...... Old Pole-Pole...... (see37) Gautam LassiCorner...... Gautam...... Fujia Green...... Royal Residency...... Rahul GuestHouse...... Mohammad's House...... Kirti GuestHouse...... Karma Temple...... (see16) Hotel UruvelaInternational...... Hotel TathagatInternational...... Hotel Sujata...... Hotel Siddartha...... (see1) Hotel Embassy...... Deep GuestHouse...... Buddha Vihar...... Bhutanese Monastery...... (see10) Burmese Vihara...... (see42) .

( % (admission free, camera/videoRs 2200648; www.middle h lonelyplanet.com 9am-10pm) D 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 C1 C1 B2 B2 C1 B2 A2 B1 B2 B2 B3 B2 B2 B2 C1 A2 BIHAR & JHARKHAND 559 Great from Insight

(Dhamma go from 2200739; admis- . The impres- runs intensive runs intensive % are more infor- more are (

meditation and (the insight medi- contains a small contains a small Root Institute for Wisdom International Meditation International vipassana

(www.insightmeditation.org) vipassana courses twice each month twice each courses 7am-noon & 2-5pm) h (

10am-5pm Sat-Thu) 2200714; www.rootinstitute.com) 2200707; per day Rs 100) 220437; www.dhamma.org) h % archaeological museum archaeological vipassana ( %

(

% Bodhgaya Vipassana Meditation Centre The courses at the The courses The popular introductory 10-day medita- The Established by Three nine-day Three and meals. Intermediate level courses are also are level courses and meals. Intermediate and, from December to February scheduled for serious students, a one-month Mahayana during Febru- is organised Vipassana retreat also holds talksary. The institute and medita- – the open to all comers tion sessionsare that has a full schedule. website spiritual inquiry retreats are held by are spiritual inquiry retreats Meditation Retreats at the Thai Monastery. to 6 February 7 January so book ahead. From mid- Space is limited at the Burmese can inquire you November Vihara between 3pm and 4pm. Donations requested. are Centre mal and students can start any time and finish they choose, year-round. run by the tion courses Culture excellent and are October throughlate March Rs donation of A requested for beginners. your course, accommodation 5800 will cover Courses Courses Additional meditation to those courses below throughtypically run from October to March at local restau- sometimes advertised and are rants and the Burmese Vihara. Buddhism in Theravada of tation technique closely examined mind and body are which guru SN Goenka, phenomena) as changing the Bodhi; OTHER ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS OTHER via a St and reached Temple end of At the the 25m-highpleasant garden towers Buddha Statue by the Dalai was unveiled monument sive Lama is surrounded by 10 smaller in 1989, and The statue Buddha’s disciples. is of sculptures and is saidpartially hollow to contain some Buddhas. 20,000 bronze sion Rs 2; but pride local Buddha figures, collection of original granite the place goes to part of of from the Maha- rescued railings and pillars bodhi Temple. 10-day is The small compound throughout the year. town and runs on donations. 4km west of , and Mucha- (Japanese Vietnamese , , a sapling from , a sapling from . Monasteries are are . Monasteries Karma Temple Bhutanese Nepali , , a brightly coloured wat , a brightly coloured Bodhi Tree each contain large prayer contain large each and •• Bodhgaya BIHAR Indosan Nipponji Temple Indosan Nipponji Temple Burmese , , a lotus pond surrounded by prayer , a lotus pond surrounded Daijokyo , Thai Monastery Chinese Pilgrims and visitors from all walks of life life from all walks of Pilgrims and visitors An audio headset guide (Rs 20), available In an intriguing display of architecture, architecture, In an intriguing display of The temple complex is a serene network complex is a serene The temple Thankfully, before Ashoka’s wife mur- wife Ashoka’s before Thankfully, the the Tamang open sunrise to sunset. wheels, and the massive Indosan Nipponji wheels, and the massive pagoda is donned with a Japanese Temple include monasteries noteworthy Other roof. with shimmering gold leaf and manicured with shimmering gold leaf and manicured in held here sessions are gardens. Meditation the morning. The Tibetan style of their homeland. The most impressive their homeland. The most impressive style of is the monasteries are designed in a representative designed in a representative are monasteries temple) at 6am and 5pm daily for the free one- for the free at 6am and 5pm daily temple) hour Zazen sessions (Zen meditation). to the beautiful Thanks to most countries with a large Buddhist Thanks to most countries with a large here, monastery or a temple population having a unique opportunity visitors offers Bodhgaya Head Buddhist cultures. to peek into different Namgyal Monastery MONASTERIES & TEMPLES MONASTERIES & TEMPLES hour commentary in English, Hindi, Japanese hour commentary Hindi, Japanese in English, or Korean. and religions come here to worship or just to worship come here and religions An enthralling way to start or finish admire. the day is with a stroll around the perimeter your way compound, threading the temple of through around the world, each monks from place. sacred this soaking up the ambience of a one- offers counter, from the camera ticket sheltered from a violent storm by the snake from a violent storm by the snake sheltered the lake. god of linda Lake statueflags and with a cobra rising from the Buddha meditated here Legend has it centre. and was on the sixth week enlightenment after of paths, gardens, shrines, votive stupas and votive gardens, shrines, paths, of a meditation park. To the south is the Ashoka, and marks the spot of Buddha’s en- Buddha’s and marks the spot of Ashoka, to as the Vajrasan lightenment – it’s referred (Diamond Throne). and planted where the original had stood. the original had stood. where and planted sandstone and between slab the tree The red by was placed there the temple of the rear tree continues to flourish and from which, in in and from which, to flourish continues tree was carried back to Bodhgaya turn, a cutting by Sanghamitta (Ashoka’s daughter). That daughter). That by Sanghamitta (Ashoka’s dered the original the dered Lanka, to Anuradhapura, Sri it was carried lonelyplanet.com BIHAR & JHARKHAND complex iscleanandcheap. The dormitoryaccommodationatthetourism Buddha Vihar BUDGET sobepreparedlow season tonegotiate. March)through –theycanfallupto50%inthe Prices listed (November are season forthehigh cycle-rickshaw rideof theMahabodhi Temple. orashort iswithinwalkingdistance everything Bodhgaya ispacked and withplacestostay Sleeping 560

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ schools andoffer tovolunteer. The followingorganisations causes: are worthy give moneydirectly tochildren. tohelp,donate Ifyou’dlike tolegitimate institutionsorvisitlocal speak several languagesbutare more illiterate. thanlikely Genuinecharitiesadvisethatyoudon’t formoneyeverything bat–they fromeducationalsponsorshiptoanewcricket tourists asking fordonations,includingtheyoungchildrenapproaches youinthestreet whobesiege looking for aneasywaytojumponthecharitybandwagonandfleecetourists. Bewaryofanyonewho donations andvolunteers. Someoftheseare lessthannoble –setupbyshadycharacters looking grims, Bodhgayahasbecomehometonumerouscharityorganisations andschoolsthatrely on Central ofIndiaandwithitsinfluxvisitorsBuddhistpil- Biharisoneofthepoorest parts CHOOSING THERIGHTCHARITY

IA • Bdgy BIHAR ••Bodhgaya vided. Youcansponsorachildforyear(US$140). evening classes. As wellaseducation, free uniforms,books,mealsandhealthcare are pro- inBodhgaya,Maitreyatablished schoolprojects hasover 500students attending dayand and building projects atSujataVillageand buildingprojects justoutsideBodhgaya. You cansponsorachildthroughtheorganisation’s website, orvolunteer withteaching skills with localorphansandpoorchildren, providing free education,clothingandmedicalcare. andchores. inmorningprayers,cooking part expected totake with thechildren.with fieldworkandactivities Free lodging andmeals, butvolunteers are village children providing education,clothingandmedicine. Volunteers are welcometohelp Ashram, thishasbeenrunformanyyearsbyDwarkoSundrani,andworkswithdisadvantaged Sujata Children’s Welfare Foundation Samanvay Ashram Temple.south oftheMahabodhi theBurmeseVihar Forinformation,contact ( Prajna Vihar School Niranjana Public Welfare School Maitreya School community projects. donations,orvolunteer or education ofachild (Rs12,000),make withteaching skills ThereBodhgaya district. are alsoplanstobuildahospital.You can sponsortheannual schools offering free literacy andeducationprogrammes forunderprivilegedchildren inthe ships andvolunteers are Kumar. welcome. thecuratorSiddhartha Contact provides educationforsome300localchildren andrunsanorphanage. Donations,sponsor- are –seethevolunteer ofthewebsite. occasionallyneededtotrainlocalhealthworkers section volunteers (nurses,physiotherapistsetc) Skilled institute toseethehealthprogrammeatwork. care tovillagersviaanonsite hospitaland mobileclinic. Visitors are welcometocallinthe centre providing runsanestablishedcharitablehealthprogramme inthedistrict, free health Vajrabodhi Society Root Institute forWisdomCulture

( % 2200127; BodhgayaRd;dmRs75-100)

( % ( ( Volunteers are sometimesrequired forthisnonprofitvillageschooljust % % 2200620; www.maitreyaeducation.org) 2330576; www.vajrabodhisocietyindia.org) 0631-2200506; [email protected]) ( ( % % 9934057511; www.npws.org) ( 2200714; www.rootinstitute.com) % 9431207949; www.sujata.onestop.net) for some,butjustgetting tothissimplefam- (ask directions). Roomsare very basic,butthe among localhomesnorthof themainroad isanadventure.ily homestay It’shidden bathroomRs200/250) private clean. thesharedairy, andeven bathroomsare kept agreatstand choice. Roomsare and bright make thisplacenearthebus friendly service bathroomRs200/300) shared/private Mohammad’s House Deep GuestHouse Oneofthelargest andmostes- This society currently runstwo Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com InBakrourVillage, thisschool AlsocalledtheGandhi This Buddhistmeditation ( %

( Itmaybeabitearthy % 2200463; BodhgayaRd;dwith 2200690; dwithshared/ Sujataworks % Cleanroomsand 2200721). BIHAR & JHARKHAND

) A a 561 then- ) Bod- a and mutton badam mutton badam Swish, spacious Swish, spacious ) thukpas a (communal Japanese Japanese (communal 2200124; www.theroyalresidency (Bodhgaya Rd; mains Rs 50-150; (Bodhgaya Rd; mains Rs 50-150;

(Bodhgaya Rd) Opposite Maha- % o-furo (Bodhgaya Rd; mains Rs 70-150;

(

2200761; www.hotelsujata.com; Buddha www.hotelsujata.com; 2200761; (Kalchakra Maidan; mains Rs 15-70)

% (

(dumplings), (boneless mutton stuffed with al- (types of noodle soup), as well as tasty (types of At Hotel Tathagat International, this is a this is a International, Tathagat At Hotel ) momos Other recommendations: Swagat Restaurant Royal Residency There are decent restaurants along the main decent restaurants are There Green Fujia Royal Residency North Indian fare in town. This is the only North Indian fare to serve in Bodhgaya restaurant but alcohol, luxury! at Rs 250 for a beer it’s a real Gautam Lassi Corner Green serves up wonderful Tibetan fare, such serves such Green fare, up wonderful Tibetan as thuks dishes. chicken a veg menu of with an innovative good choice as dishes, such and nonveg pasanda Por- in an almond gravy), monds and cooked malai kofta. tuguese-style and a creamy fish most upmarket Considering it’s in Bodhgaya’s itself is plain on décor the restaurant hotel, and disappointingly cramped, but the food the best Chinese and is good with some of comfy rooms, but still overpriced. Eating and trav- pilgrims of range a diverse With such places to has plenty of filing in, Bodhgaya ellers eat. During the peak season from mid-Novem- pilgrims pour when Tibetan ber to February, set restaurants tent temporary into Bodhgaya, at Ka- market, refugee up next to the Tibetan Buddha and near the Great Maidan lchakra Statue, serving dishes and Tibetan of a range sweets as apple pie and cinnamon rolls. such while the best dining centre, road in the village and midrange in a handful of experiences are top-end hotels. TOP END TOP END Hotel Sujata Rd; s/d/ste Rs 2400/2800/3600; an excellent restaurant, beds, soft rooms with hers and his and the Thai opposite this hotel, make baths) value in the top-end range. best Monastery, avail- bath is only the Japanese Unfortunately, more. 10 or of able to groups US$120/150; .net/bodhgaya; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d marble, pleasant gardens and woodwork, rich bodhi Temple, serves juice and lassis, coffee, up creamy bodhi Temple, chowmein for Rs 10. popular year-round tent restaurant, Fujia Fujia restaurant, tent popular year-round hgaya’s most luxurious hotel is in a quiet lo- most luxurious hotel hgaya’s Fine the centre. of cation about 1.5km west

has 2200721; % (

•• Bodhgaya BIHAR 2200235; s/d Rs The upstairs The upstairs 2200106; www.ho Karma Temple % ( %

) Spacious rooms,

( is a tranquil place a 2200710; Buddha Rd; d with 2200744; near Kalchakra Maidan; % ( Burmese Vihara

(s/d Rs 150/250)

2200799; embassyhotelbodhgaya@ %

2200127; Bodhgaya Rd; d Rs 400, with ( Simple and conservatively is popular with foreigners; is popular with foreigners; ) % (

% ( a Run by the Tibetan Monastery Monastery Run by the Tibetan This is the best of the accommodation This is the best of This central, no-frills hotel is looking hotel This central, no-frills 2200795; Temple St; d with shared bathroom Rs 200) St; d with shared 2200795; Temple ) If you don’t mind abiding by some simple If you don’t mind abiding Rahul Guest House Hotel Tathagat International Hotel Tathagat Hotel Uruvela International Kirti Guest House Hotel Embassy % furnished rooms, but it’s clean and efficientlyfurnished balconies and all have run. Some rooms have TV and hot water. teltathagatbodhgaya.net; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d Rs 1125/1350, with Bodhgaya Rd; s/d Rs 1125/1350, with teltathagatbodhgaya.net; AC Rs 1350/1700; near the Japanese temple. Low-season temple. dis- near the Japanese count is 40%. some a little ornate and overdecorated, have have and overdecorated, some a little ornate the usual facilities at this quiet, friendly hotel 750/1000, with AC Rs 1000/1400; opening out onto the balcony. All rooms have opening out onto the balcony. All rooms have TV and hot water. Kirti has clean, bright a monas- rooms behind the front rooms Go for one of façade. tery-like s/d Rs 700/850) places, the midrange the best of and one of TV is and the management and hot water welcoming. a thougha bit old and dated, all rooms have yahoo.com; Bodhgaya Rd; s/d Rs 500/600, with AC Rs 800/900; area. Rates are fixed year-round, making it year-round, fixed Rates are area. to January. good value from November AC Rs 600) tourism complex, though it’s in the BSTDC in an unusual Rooms are still a bit austere. a quiet garden circular building overlooking MIDRANGE MIDRANGE Hotel Siddartha there’s a maximum stay of three days unless three a maximum stay of there’s in dharma studies. engaged you’re a similar feel. The a similar feel. Bodhgaya Rd; r Rs 50) and big rooms. The Tibetan ( shared/private Rs 150/250) bathroom gardens typified by colourful surroundings, sible to stay at some of the monasteries. The the monasteries. sible to stay at some of Bhutanese Monastery rules and attending daily prayers, it’s pos- prayers, daily rules and attending place is clean. It’s a short walk across the play- It’s a short place is clean. Maidan. Kalchakra ing field near rooftop terrace offers pleasant views of rice rice pleasant of views offers terrace rooftop sunsetspaddies, the distant and Mahabodhi Temple. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book rooms with whitewashed walls, nice breezes nice breezes walls, whitewashed rooms with than those better are furnishings and simple this budget floor, but overall on the ground BIHAR & JHARKHAND While there is only one Indian Airlines domestic While there isonlyoneIndianAirlinesdomestic to pickupsomewinter woollensortextiles, tables outthefront. and Tibetan food.Crampedinsidebutthere are shady a reliable travellers’menu ofIndian,Chinese,continental Hindu pilgrims, it’sreally onlyof interest to south of Patna. it’sacentre Although for Gaya isaraucous, dustytownabout 100km % GAYA tire trip(Rs200). hire anautorickshaw inBodhgaya fortheen- you 5kmtothecaves. Alternatively, youcan sidethatleads find apathontheright-hand have towalkacrossthebridge. There you’ll (Rs5),whereautorickshaw toKhiryama you’ll shrines forBuddhistsandoneHindus. Bodhgaya. Three maincaves several contain scending toBodhgaya, are 12kmnortheastof dha underwentyears of penance before de- The Dungeshwari cave temples, where Bud- DUNGESHWARI CAVETEMPLES andYangoon. fromBangkok flights there season arethe high direct international (US$88), during to/fromKolkata aweek flight rickshaw toGayashould costRs80. Vihara forthe13kmtoGaya. Aprivate auto- (Rs5)leaveand occasionalbuses theBurmese crowdedsharedOverly autorickshaws (Rs8) Getting There&Away and postcardstoBuddhastatues. fromprayerflags everything temple selling in exile.upopposite Souvenirthe set stalls and you’llbehelpingtheTibetan community Tibetan market refugee Shopping chip cookiesorcinnamonrolls. such alongwithsweets aschocolate-Chinese, breakfast fare, pancakes, andIndian pasta travellers’has avariedbutstandard menuof (mains Rs20-80) 80) tent restaurants Rd are thelong-runningandpopularsemi- ViharaonBodhgayaOpposite theBurmese Om Restaurant Restaurant Vishnu 562 place issimilar. , From Bodhgaya, grabaGaya-bound shared The 0631 /pop383,197 Old Pole-Pole IA • DnehaiCv epe CaveTemplesBIHAR ••Dungeshwari Gaya Gaya airport . They’re pretty basicandeach (Bodhgaya Rd) Next doortoVishnu,this (BodhgayaRd)Next

(mains Rs20-80) (BodhgayaRd)Oppositethepark, ( Original Pole-Pole Original

% 2201155)

( h Oct-Jan) is 8km from town. is8kmfromtown. and the A great place

(mains Rs20- Gautam

hr Rs20) h ATM Thenearest atthetrainstation. foreign cave here. is expansive, andthere’s asmalltemple and the topof Gayaandthesurroundingplains have preached thefire Theviewfrom sermon. Vishnupad Temple, where to Buddhaissaid the of edge, funeralpyres. Hindusbatheandlight the entrance. ontheriver’s Alongtheghats look atthetemple fromthepinkplatformnear are not permitted toenter, butyoucanget a Vishnu imprinted insolidrock.Non-Hindus of Indore a40cm‘footprint’of andhouses was constructed AhalyaBai in1787byQueen of town,the tothebanksofClose theFalgu River south Sights &Activities Bodhgaya. There are several exchange forcashandtravellers cheques isin bondage to theearth. around Gayatofree theirancestors from perform alengthycircuitof theholyplaces (funeral cake) alongtheriver, attheghats and 13km away.Pilgrimscomehere tooffer pinda waiting for atrain. to 11.30pm, isagoodplace forabite while restaurant (mainsRs20to80), open7am tively overpriced but, theAC multicuisine tion, roomshere varyalotand are compara- d withACRs800; andhotwater.most roomshave TV is thebestvalueintown.Clean,well kept, and a castle-like façade,thisreasonably newhotel jayapur Rd;sRs250,d350-600,withAC1000; area upstairs. andthere’s arelaxing open-air clean withTV roomsareinner courtyard.Basic reasonably timber façadegives waytoanIslamic-inspired is thepickof thebudget places.The turquoise hotels down thelaneopposite this thestation, 175/250) Bodhgayaotherwise isabetter placetostay. if youarrive late orhave anearlydeparture, The mainreason overnight tostay inGayais Sleeping &Eating travellers asthetransporthubforBodhgaya, Ajatsatru Hotel International Vishnu Hotel Akash Hotel 10am-8pm Mon-Sat) One thousand stonestepsOne thousand leadstothetop There’s a alongSwarajayapur Rd. Standing outamongtheconcrete Standing clone Brahmajuni Hill Brahmajuni Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Bihar State tourist office tourist Bihar State sikhara

a ( %

( ) Directly opposite thesta- % 2222205; Laxman Sahay Rd;s/dRs 2222205; LaxmanSahay and a State Bank of Bank andaState India (spired) 2434584; StationRd;dRs375, , 1kmsouthwestof the

( % Vishnupad TempleVishnupad internet cafés internet 2431146; Swara- (

% a 2420155; With ) (per

BIHAR & JHARKHAND A3 B2 A1 A2 B4 A1 A1 A2 563 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (24 to 26 October) is the (24 to 26 October) 06112 / pop 33,691 For travellers, a couple of days spent ex- of a couple For travellers, Rajgir Mahotsava INFORMATION Tourist Office...... Bihar State Internet Cafés...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Vishnupad Temple...... SLEEPING Ajatsatru Hotel...... Hotel Akash...... Hotel Vishnu International...... EATING 4) Ajatsatru Hotel Restaurant...... (see TRANSPORT Gandhi Maidan Bus Stand...... Kacheri Autorickshaw Stand......

Information Information this small town lies 500m of The dusty centre find you’ll main road, on which the east of the train station, bus stand and a number of tourist office at the a BSTDC There’s hotels. the GautamHotel Vihar, about 1km south of of the Magadha kingdom, known today as the Magadha of Buddha and Mahavira Thanks to both Rajgir. Rajgirspending some serious is an time here, for Buddhists and site important pilgrimage also en- A mention in the Mahabharata Jains. Hindu that Rajgir supply of has a good sures pilgrims who come to bathe in the hot springs at the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. ploring the many historic Buddhist sites site around Rajgir and the ancient university town, provides Nalanda, 12km south of of 80km complement to Bodhgaya, the perfect away. featuring festival cultural town’s three-day Indian classical and folk music and dance. can take a cycle-rickshaw to Kacheri stand a cycle-rickshaw to Kacheri can take (Rs 8) autorickshaw and a crowded shared from there. Getting Around From the train station, should a cycle-rickshaw stand, autorickshaw cost Rs 12 to the Kacheri or Gaurakshini bus Rs 15 to Gandhi Maidan stands, and Rs 20 to the Vishnupad Temple. RAJGIR % and surrounded by five bushland among Set an- of vestiges lined with rocky hills, each cient cyclopean walls, is the ancient capital

Falgu River 3

Rd

Scale pad Rajgir (62km); Approximate

u Pawapuri (90km) Rd hn

Riverside Ramsagar Rd Ramsagar Vis B

GB Rd 8

Rd Zila School Rd To Gaurakshini Bus Stand (2km);

ala

To Patna (92km) Manglagavri Rd Market

Siw r Tank u ad h a B 7 h Police Station

e •• Rajgir BIHAR 00t 0.5 miles 1 km a

Tekari Rd 6

Dak Banglaw Rd F 5 Hill (500m)

Swarajayapur Rd To Brahmajuni Laxman Post Office Sahay Rd 4 2 Gandhi Maidan

A Station Rd

1 To Patna (92km) At the train station you’ll be besieged by At the train stationyou’ll be besieged Gaya is on the Delhi–Kolkata railway line

Train To Varanasi (204km) GAYA Station 2 3 1 4 To Bodhgaya (12km) autorickshaw drivers assuming you’re head- you’re assuming autorickshaw drivers cost Rs 80, or you It should ing to Bodhgaya. eight hours), and less frequent services and less frequent eight hours), to Vara- four are There nasi (Rs 110/310, four hours). (Rs 101/188, two hours). daily trains to Patna with regular trains to Delhi (sleeper/3AC Rs trains to Delhi (sleeper/3AC with regular and Kolkata (Rs 183/515,319/899, 16 hours) rakshini bus stand, across the river. 35, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes) use every 30 minutes) the Gau- 35, 2½ hours, Some buses to Patna also leave from a stand also leave Some buses to Patna next to the train station. Buses to Rajgir (Rs Buses to Patna (Rs 50, three hours, hourly) hourly) hours, (Rs 50, three Buses to Patna and Ranchi (Rs 101, seven hourly) hours, stand. bus from the Gandhi Maidan leave Getting There & Away Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com BIHAR & JHARKHAND Rs 30; nagiri Hill,about 5km southof town,tovisit bus station and east along Dharamsala Rdin andeast alongDharamsala bus station There are a few budget hotels aroundthe Sleeping &Eating Rs 150forahalf-day. ered cart.Thisshouldcostabout horse-drawn sites istorent atonga–cushioned andcov- on youandaskforexcessive donations. ‘priests’ willshow youaround,pourhotwater the hottest spring,isascalding45°C.Temple is pipedfromunderground. Brahmakund, benefits of thehotsprings,where thewater town, Hindupilgrimsare drawntothehealth Narayan Temple complex Within therowdyandvery pink theboxed (see text, 5th centuryBC above ). todeathhere inthe imprisoned andstarved Ajatasatru whohe andhisfatherBimbisara, ancient city,caves andplacesassociated with and theremains of astupacanbeseen. Peak) where Buddhapreached tohisdisciples can stoptodetourat hilltops.Ifyouwalkbackdown, distant reveal someof the26Jain shrines dottingthe Japanese Monastery andtheexpansive views ment, preaching anddeath.There’s alsoa the fourstages of hislife –birth,enlighten- the stupafeature of gildedstatues Buddhain Stupa the huge whitewashed 40m-high Take thewobblysingle-person Sights &Activities no foreign-exchange facilities. (Bank Rd) There’strain station. a 564 The easiest way to see Rajgir’s scattered Rajgir’s The easiestwaytosee Spread aroundthetownare relics of the

eluded deathandeventually grew uptoseize hisfathertodeathinprison. thecrownandstarve which directly translates to‘Hewhoseenemyisnotborn’. grow tomurderhimandusurphiscrown.Bimbisaragrew andnamedhissonAjatasatru, fearful in hislastbreath. This ledtonumerousbadomensandpropheciesthatBimbisara’sheirwould andsoonVaidehihermit killed wasexpecting. when thehermitpassed,hisspiritwouldimpregnate Vaidehi. Impatient,Bimbisaraordered the teller, whotoldhimthatthere wasanoldhermitthree yearsfromdeathinthedistanthillsand was frustrated thatheandhiswife, Vaidehi, hadnotyetproducedanheir. Hecalledonafortune According to legend,inthe6thcenturyBCBimbisara,elderlyrulerofMagadhakingdom, AJATASATRU: THEUNBORNENEMY h IA • Rji BIHAR ••Rajgir , builtbyJapanese in Buddhists.Recesses It’s thought that Bimbisara tried to have Ajatasatru killed onafewIt’s thoughtthatBimbisaratriedtohave Ajatasatrukilled occasions,buttheboyalways However, thenewswasnotallgoodforBimbisara,ashermithadcursedfuture heir about200mwestof but thebusstand, 8.15am-1pm &2-5pm) , about2kmsouthof Griddhakuta State BankofIndiaATMState tothetopof Rat- chairlift chairlift Vishwashanti Vishwashanti (Vulture’s Lakshmi (return

AC Rs750; and train stations andnearthehotsprings, and trainstations nal hutisadecentrestaurant. and hotwater. Outinthegardenahexago- spacious, cleanroomshave lounge chairs, TV andthe thebusandtrainstations, between Tourism hotels intown,thisiswelllocated 75, dRs450,withAC700; occupancy islow. orif to 50%discountappliesoutof season rates areHigh-season given below,butup out inthesouth,justwestof thehotsprings. Midrange andtop-endchoices are spread authentic flavours andfresh ingredients. No tures soba noodles,teriyaki andtempura with Japanese, partIndian.The Japanese menufea- high-backed chairs ispart andlongtables Hokke Hotel, thiselegant restaurant with best nonveg Indianmeals intown. town, thissimplerestaurant offers someof the temple complexandhotspringsjustsouthof lar withtourgroups. popu- intheprayerhall.It’smighty meditate décor. SoakintheJapanese and bathhouse instead of beds,teak furniture andEastern Japanese mats form,complete withtatami riences. Twentyof the26rooms are intrue is oneof expe- Bihar’smostuniquesleeping surrounded bylovely manicured gardens,this towering cylindricalBuddhistprayerhalland dte.vsnl.net.in; s/dRs5200/6200; restaurant.sized roomsandapleasant walledcourtyard,good- but hasapleasant lookmuch fromtheoutside Siddharth doesn’t the towncentre, noneare though very good. o Hotel Siddharth Hotel Vihar Gautam Hotel Lotus Restaurant Restaurant Green a Centaur Hokke Hotel Hokke Centaur ) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Abitof ahike southof thebus

(

%

(meals RsUS$1-12; (mains Rs20-60)

( % 255616; s/dRs450/650,dwith a 255273; NalandaRd;dmRs ) Oneof three Bihar a (

% ) Fronted by a Opposite the 255245; centaur@ a ) Atthe BIHAR & JHARKHAND 565 and and (admission free; (admission free;

tirthankar look out for the bizarre the bizarre look out for . , built by the Chinese as a peace , built by the Chinese as a peace Jalmandir , a small but fascinating museum but fascinating , a small Xuan Zang Memorial Hall Kirtimukha, 9am-5pm) Regular shared jeeps run between Rajgir Regular shared About 2km further on from the ruins is ruins is further on from the 2km About bursts of Maoist and Naxalite violence. For For violence. and Naxalite Maoist of bursts Jharkhand’s prime attractions are travellers, around the waterfalls its national parks, a few a capital Ranchi to explore and the chance northern India – with Jharkhand tourist-free you may well be the radars, off most visitors’ in the state. only foreigner JHARKHAND in India in created new states three One of neighbour- Jharkhand was hewn out of 2000, ing Bihar to meet the growing demands of the the Adivasi (tribal) population. Despite a jaw-dropping 40% of fledgling state having the country’s mineral wealth (mainly coal, several forests, rich copper and iron ore), and the healthy industrial centres major it still suf- a newly formed state, of budget tribal demands of thanks to the crippling fers out- corruption, and populations, poverty, the front. A museum and exhibit devoted the front. A museum and exhibit devoted to Xuan Zang was due to open at the time writing. of (Rs 8), and from there and Nalanda village tonga (Rs 10) or cycle- a shared you can take 3km to the site. rickshaw (Rs 20) the final Pawapuri centre, pilgrimage Jain major is a Pawapuri the final Mahavira, due to dying and being cremated Jainism, founder of 500 BC. in about here It is said the demand that copi- ashes was so great for his sacred around removed soil were ous amounts of lotus- the massive creating his funeral pyre, today. Seeminglyfilled tank here floating in the tank marble is the ornate, the middle of of temple 5pm Sat-Thu) seal and a University the Nalanda housing bronzes unearthed and sculptures host of Along with the and Rajgir. from Nalanda 9th- and Picasso-like figures many Buddha century the huge the famous Chinese pagoda in honour of who studied and taught for some traveller backpackers Modern-day at Nalanda. years Xuan Zang the statue of at will appreciate many-spouted pot. many-spouted h

10am- khaja h JHARKHAND

(Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; (Indian/foreigner

(admission Rs 2; ruins they’re peaceful and well main- they’re , with steps, terraces and a few intact and a few terraces , with steps, is sold throughout Bihar, its origins

archaeological museum archaeological 061194 9am-5.30pm) – khaja Across the road and entered separately is the road and entered Across The red-brick ruins comprise ruins a main rec- The red-brick Allow an hour or two for wandering the

While the beloved puff-pastryWhile the beloved sweet known the the bers. Although you can climb up the steps of of Although can climb up the steps you bers. the complex, No 1 for a view over monastery Stupa are up the Great the crumbling steps bounds. out of now understandably Great Stupa it, and the monks’ cham- stupas around votive tangle of nine monasteries and four main tem- and four nine monasteries tangle of is the at the back. Most impressive ple sites just as good. while a good guide may help bring the ruins guidebooks (Rs 40) are the printed to life, offer their servicesoffer for Rs 100 an hour and h clipped of atmosphere tained with a park-like roses and lawns, perfumed with the scent of clamour to shrubs. Guides outside the gates extensive university’s university’s extensive medicine and philosophy. Nalanda’s three medicine and philosophy. Nalanda’s three they burnt for six so extensive libraries were the university when Afghans sacked months in the 12th century. studied theology, astronomy, metaphysics, visited some time betweenvisited AD 685 and 762, and here 10,000 monks and students resided one of the ancient world’s great universities universities the ancient world’s great one of When and an important Buddhist centre. Xuan Zang Chinese and traveller scholar Nalanda Nalanda % AD, Nalanda was Founded in the 5th century AROUND RAJGIR AROUND RAJGIR originate in Rajgir (2nd class Rs 36, 2½ hours, in Rajgiroriginate (2nd class Rs 36, 2½ hours, stops at Nalanda 8.10am and 3.15pm), with (Rs 20, 25 and Pawapuri (Rs 18, 15 minutes) minutes). gir and Nalanda (Rs 8). The best way to get The best way to get gir and Nalanda (Rs 8). trains that two daily of is on one to Patna stand on the Nalanda road. Ridiculously stand road. Ridiculously on the Nalanda jeeps between shuttle Raj- crowded shared Regular buses run to Gaya (Rs 45, 2½ hours) Regular buses (Rs 45, 2½ hours) run to Gaya from the bus hours) (Rs 60, three and Patna Getting There & Around & Around Getting There as sushi, sashimi or sake, but still a memorable still a memorable but sashimi or sake, sushi, experience. dining tiny vil- This Rajgir. just north of lay in Silao, is still said finest to be home to the lage Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book in all the land – the wasps certainly love it. – the wasps certainlyin all the land love BIHAR & JHARKHAND per hrRs25; hotel iswelcomingandcheap –and enough complex, andaHDFCATM across theroad. can organise daytripstolocalwaterfalls (Rs Sat) Check emailatthe the Asurs, MundasandGonds. of manytribalgroups,including Jharkhand’s you from thewalls. thatcandistract sometimes work,andTVs grubby. Allprivate roomshave geysers that but it’sabitgloomy andtheroomsare sadly conveniently withinthetouristcomplex – 70/300, dwithACRs500; Rd. Station endless Main anglesto Rd, runningatright and bankscanbefoundontheseemingly ing inforeigners. Otherhotels, restaurants fewquality, though are interested incheck- islinedwithhotelsand busstations, of varying thetrain Rd,runningbetween Dusty Station Sleeping &Eating the city. ruary, are the especiallyfromNovemberspectacular, toFeb- Themost be visited ondaytripsfromRanchi. Museum 50 byautorickshaw). The Mandir atPuri.It’s6kmsouthwestof town(Rs Temple If you’re here foraday, visittheHindu Sights &Activities port ticketing. tional Park (fromRs2500)andothertrans- Na- 1200), two-orthree-day tripstoBetla StationRd) Market, Mon-Fri) The h Park, ortotourthesurroundingwaterfalls. National landing here istotransitBetla way toanywhere –theonlyreal reason for of interest inthecityandit’snotreally on the than theplains.Fortravellers there’s notalot a plateau atabout700m,it’smarginally cooler of on mer capital BiharundertheBritish–set wasoncethesum- Ranchi capital, Jharkhand’s % RANCHI 566 There are pretty several waterfalls thatcan Hotel BirsaVihar Hotel Suhana TourandTravels There’s a is also worth a visit to delve into the history isalsoworthavisittodelve intothehistory 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) 0651 /pop846,454 State BankofIndia State HRHN • Rnh JHARKHAND ••Ranchi , asmallversion of thegreat Jagannath changes cashandtravellers cheques.

( % h 2541824; admissionfree; 9am-9pm) tourist office tourist isareliable travel agency that Hundru Falls

attheBirsa Vihartourist ( i-way Internet Café i-way Internet % a next toHotel Embassy.

2331828; Main Rd;dm/dRs 2331828; Main (Main Rd; (Main ) Jharkand Tourism’s

Tribal Research Institute Institute Research Tribal ( ( , 45kmnortheastof % % 2310230; 5 Main Rd; 2310230; 5Main 3093808; Gurunanak h h 10am-5pm Mon- 10am-3.30pm (Station Rd;

Jagannath Jagannath Ranchi’s top hotel, this is in the new Capitol tophotel, thisisinthenewCapitol Ranchi’s .com; Main Rd;s/dRs2800/3400; .com; Main surprisingly pleasant haven.surprisingly pleasant Thegardensare this red-tiled terracotta-roofed relic Raj isa (sleeper/3AC Rs218/612, 10to14 hours, brownies. great range of coffee, sundaesandchocolate dishes,lis, veg there’s pizzasandChinese a Rd. Alongwithafullmenuof tha- dosas, modern veg caféisagreat escapefromMain –this upperlevel ceilings andaglassed-in 30-80) are best. alsoRanchi’s navian touch. Thestylish restaurant andbar way toequallymodernroomswithaScandi- floor lobby withcream leatherchairs gives Hill shopping complex.Theultramodern3rd- are welcomed. they have anundeniablecharm andtravellers unkempt andtheroomsalittlemusty but 706/866; ( decently clean. AC roomsare refreshingly contemporary and here toacceptforeigners andthecomfortable but thisisoneof thefew budget placesalong with ACRs650/850; eight to nine hours)eight and8pm(Rs200). are twodeluxe toPatna buses at 8am(Rs170, Birsa Vihartourist complexonMain Rdthere (Rs85,sixhours,bus stand hourly).Fromthe Rd leave fromtheRatu Daltonganj (forBetla) to from6.30am, whilebuses main busstand and Patna (Rs170,nine hours) leave fromthe (US$82). Kolkata Rd) Main Delhi (three hours). toPatnafour timesaweek (50minutes) and (onehour),and andKolkata Ranchi between Air Deccanhasthecheapest fares, flyingdaily Getting There&Away dishes, washeddownwithacoldbeer. and prawncurrytoKashmiri andtandoori vegtasty andnonveg foodfromroastchicken andthebroadmenufeaturesand comfortable, dining roominHotel KwalityInnsisbright best restaurant area, inthetrainstation the % The Nook The Planet Masala Railway BNR Guesthouse-Southeastern Embassy Hotel There are three daily trains toPatna Hotel Capitol Hill Capitol Hotel Buses toGaya(Rs101,sixhours, hourly) Buses 2460584; StationRd;s/dRs438/599,withACfrom Spotless andwitha funkyinterior –high has flights toDelhi(US$135) and hasflights a )

( Almost opposite the train station, Almost opposite thetrainstation, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % 2460128; StationRd;mainsRs45-95) a (

% ( %

( ) Staff are alittleindifferent,Staff % 2460813; StationRd;s/dRs300/400, 3291765; 56C Main Rd;mainsRs 3291765; 56CMain Indian Airlines 2331330; www.hotelcapitolhill a ) Withoutdoubt ( % 2203042; The

BIHAR & JHARKHAND – 567 reached tourist lodge

(admission by Parasnath HillParasnath (pilgrims’ guest- tirthankars , the major Jain pil- Jain , the major in Madhuban. in Madhuban. Dak Bungalow Sikayi dharamsalas dharamsalas , a rudimentary place where you’ll get a you’ll get , a rudimentary place where 0658-232378; s/d Rs 80/120) 06532 If you’re interested in spending the night, interested If you’re Naxalite activity has beenNaxalite continuing in this A handful of trains run from Gaya (2nd A handful of Starting from the serene and leaf-ladenStarting from the serene buses betweenBetla (Rs 14, and Daltonganj % area, so it’s vital to get security advice before security so it’s vital advice before to get area, ). p551 arriving (see town of Madhuban, 25km northeast of Para- 25km northeast of Madhuban, town of snath, the 6km walk up through lush for- as the grand view from est is as rewarding the top. some are there houses), including the donation) also a There’s on the floor. mattress ( and Kolk- hours) Rs 46/160, three class/chair to Rs 130/365, six hours) ata (sleeper/3AC a morning bus to daily, and there’s Parasnath Ranchi Regular minibuses (Rs 85, 4½ hours). bus stand to Madhuban run from Parasnath’s (Rs 25). information on getting the latest security the latest up- information on getting . p551 seedates, PARASNATH % Jharkhand,in eastern a dusty town Parasnath, is the railhead for and its The site in east India. centre grimage the top of blanket many temples Jharkhand’s highest point. At the summit now Temple the Parasnath (1366m), where the 24 Jain stands, 23 of one hour), or you can arrange a taxi for a taxi for can arrange or you one hour), to Daltonganj is connected around Rs 200. Ranchi hourly). Al- by bus (Rs 85, six hours, a tour through organise a Ranchi ternatively, to the you directly that will take agency travel ) opposite (see Tour and Travels park. Suhana person, trips for Rs 2500 per has two-day and accommodation including transport, trips on demand. This isn’t safari, or longer in issue the safety a bad option considering In the state. of and lawless part this isolated you call the park any case, it’s imperative For more leaving. for security advice before salvation, including Parasnath at the age of of at the age salvation, including Parasnath to location you’d have the remote 100. Given to warrant in Jainism a serious interest have a special trip.

) a How- Tourist tourist com-

(per hr up to 4

is October (per hr about Rs (chair/executive (chair/executive 5am-7pm) Van ViharVan Jeep safaris h elephant safaris (sleeper/3AC Rs 170/480). (sleeper/3AC 06562-222650; admission per vehicle National Park Betla (Palamau) •• JHARKHAND . % (

Shatabdi Express Shatabdi that take you off the vehicle tracks the vehicle you off that take park 06567-226513; d Rs 400, with AC Rs 700; (dm Rs 100)

% (

can be arranged privately at the park gate. at the park gate. privately can be arranged The government-run The government-run The park offers The park offers While open year-round, the best time to While open year-round, The nearest town to the park entrance is town to the park entrance is The nearest Jharkhand Tourism also runs the basic House year. Spacious rooms are clean, bright and Spacious rooms are year. balconies. look onto the gardens – some have is the best accommodation around the park entrance and it’s the only option open all plex and into the jungle where you get an unparal- get you and into the jungle where leled look at the park’s flora and fauna. people Rs 100) 200) a local guide (per hour Rs You must also hire 20) to bring in your vehicle. cover is reduced and the animals venture out and the animals venture is reduced cover waterholes. in search of through April. If you can stand the heat, May through April. If you can stand the heat, May as the forest is a prime time for tiger-spotting visit the forts still exist in the jungle. villages. This area was also the seat was power in of This area villages. its 16th-century the Chero dynasty and two of leopards, 210 elephants and 249 bison. There and 249 bison. There leopards, 210 elephants observationseveral rickety are for the towers to climb and lay low, while watching brave among the animals Living in silence. wildlife across 200 small eight local tribes spread are sal forest, rich evergreens, teak trees and bam- trees teak evergreens, rich sal forest, 62 home to some 37 tigers, are boo thickets of Ranchi India the best places in of and is one of to see sightings wild elephants, though tiger Palamau The entire rare. comparatively are while around 1026 sq km, Sanctuary covers as sq km was declared 232 of area the core stands of in 1989. Pure Betla National Park and now part of Project Tiger, this undis- Tiger, Project and now part of the state is 140km west of natural gem puted Home to the world’s first tiger census in 1932 census tiger world’s first to the Home Rs 645/1220, 7½ hours) or the overnight or the overnight 7½ hours) Rs 645/1220, Express rah-Hatia PARK NATIONAL BETLA (PALAMAU) 6.15am and 7.15pm). To Kolkata6.15am and you can take the 1.45pm 6.15am, 7.15pm and 10.15pm) and two to and two and 10.15pm) 7.15pm 6.15am, seven Rs 133/291, Gaya (sleeper/chair hours, lonelyplanet.com Rs 80, camera/video Rs 50/300; Daltonganj, 25km away. There are five daily daily five are Daltonganj, 25km away. There BIHAR & JHARKHAND the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 568 © LonelyPlanetPublications www.lonelyplanet.com