Nordic Trails and Fjords I (12 Days) We love driving holidays. They are by far our favourite way of traveling. And when we’re in the mood for spoiling ourselves with fine food and delightful hotels besides the sheer pleasure of being on some of the world’s best roads, we turn to Europe!

Europe, even though small by comparison with other regions of the world, nonetheless offers a tremendous variety of intriguing cultures and splendid sceneries. Scandinavia is one of them. It is less familiar, more exotic, less visited, more rustic, and therein lies its charm, especially as the canvas for an unforgettable driving holiday because the scenery, especially that of ’s fjords, is one of a kind.

We therefore take great pleasure in introducing our first nordic itinerary. Now turn the page and find out what we’ve come to love ourselves so much in this remarkable region of Europe…

p2 p3 Itinerary Map …where you will travel… p. 006 It all goes back a long, long time… p. 008 Journey of Discovery… p. 010 Day-by-day... p. 072 Choice of Cars... p. 089 Adventures & Discoveries in Local Cuisines... p. 090 What’s Included / Best Months to Go... p. 092 Photo Credits p. 095 p4 Itinerary Map Day1 Day7 Arrive in Oslo (Norway) – Arrive at Skodje to Oye – The Geiranger Fjord your leisure in Oslo. In the evening, a crossing will be today’s highlight on warm welcome dinner for our guests your way south to a historic hotel…

Day2 Day8 In and around Oslo – Explore Oslo, Oye to – Further south the 1000-year old capital of Norway. along spectacular country roads to Visit its Viking Museum, stroll along Sogndalsfjorden the picturesque harbour front and through the remarkable Vigeland Da9 park In and around Hafslo – You may well choose to spend the day with Lindis, Day3 the owner of the most special hotel Oslo to Lillehammer – You begin on this journey. Or drive to Urnes your drive along the first of countless Stave Church, the oldest in Norway…a charming country roads via Nes to must see. Or one of a million other Lillehammer hidden gems in Hafslo

Day4 Day10 Lillehammer to Geiranger – Hafslo to – A drive across Remoter and remoter…via Dalsnibba the most stunningly beautiful to one of the world’s most renowned mountain pass and above fjords Aurlandsfjorden

Day5 Day11 Geiranger to Skodje – Trollstigen, In and around Bergen – A concert one of Norway’s most beautiful at Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s roads, will be today’s high-light… erstwhile residence; a visit to the Hanseatic Museum...a slow day as Day6 the journey draws to a close In and around Skodje – A day of rest in one of the most charming hotels Day12 of the journey? Or an exploration of Departure – All good things must Alesund, a charming fishing port? Or come to an end... hiking in the hills above Storfjorden? p6 It will be a wonderful day! International Brands Shopping Local/Handicraft Shopping It all goes back a long, long time... Europe is the cradle of the motorcar and private motoring. Ever since Karl Benz’s 1886 Motorwagen, people have taken pride in owning a car and being in its driver’s seat. Driving in a beautiful car bespeaks privilege, freedom, privacy, and, especially in a cabriolet, allows one to be in communion with the elements and natural beauty: soak up the sunshine, feel the wind in your hair, smell the fresh air and the scents of freshly cut grass. Besides, there is the sheer pleasure of being in control, of directing the course of travel: to turn, to go, to stop where and when you feel like it.

These are pleasures that Europeans were the first to enjoy. Most evidently, these are pleasures that can be shared by couples. While it is often the gentleman who takes the driving seat, it was in fact Bertha Benz who undertook the first driving journey (with their two children) in the world. Driving journeys in a cabriolet is something that women have enjoyed ever since, whether as companion or driver.

Discovering the world by means of a driving journey is a unique pleasure that we want to share with you!

p8 p9 p11 VIGELAND Park - in the heart of Oslo, is ONE of a kind…”

Oslo, Norway p13 What would a VISIT to OSLO be without a VIKING HISTORY?”

p14 p15 OFF THE BEATEN TRACK…a beautiful place for LUNCH…”

On the way to … p17 GORGEOUS mountain ROADS EVERYWHERE…”

p18 p19 The GEIRANGER FJORD…a UNESCO World Heritage place deserving of the designation…”

p20 p21 Between OCEANS, GLACIERS and CLOUDS...”

Aurlands Fjorden, Norway p23 A FARM for lunch, HIGH ABOVE the Geiranger FJORD...”

p24 p25 WHO WOULD THINK that Norway produces DELICIOUS CHOCOLATES...?”

p26 p27 NOT as precarious as it looks…THE MUST-DRIVE Trollstigen…”

p28 p29 Trollstigen in Western Norway… p31 Trollstigen in Western Norway… p33 A CHARMING boutique HOTEL... CLASSIC and MODERN at the same time...”

Near Alesund p35 ON THE ROAD to ALESUND...”

Tennfjorden in Western Norway… p36 p37 Very much WORTH A VISIT, this LAYED-BACK VILLAGE by the SEA...”

Alesund in Western Norway p39 EVERLASTING DAYS…it is LIGHT ALL DAY LONG…”

p40 p41 ROADS… REMOTE, CALM and a joy too drive...”

In the charming Norangsdal… p43 A HISTORIC hotel that FEELS like a MUSEUM…”

p44 p45 High above Loen… p47 RURAL, mountainous, and GREEN, ever so GREEN...”

On the way south to Sognefjorden… p49 A FAMILY-owned, IDYLLIC guest house that will find its way into YOUR HEART...”

Your hotel in Luster, Norway p51 Your hotel in Luster, Norway p53 Meals at your hotel in Luster, Norway p55 A ONE THOUSAND year old STAVE CHURCH… LOVINGLY preserved…”

Urnes Stave Church… p57 MAGNIFICENT ROADS that start at sea level and go HIGHER and HIGHER…”

Aurlandsfjorden… p59 … and HIGHER… UNTIL…”

p60 p61 … there is NOTHING but a FEELING OF REMOTENESS…”

p62 p63 BERGEN, Europe’s ‘LARGEST VILLAGE’ by the ATLANTIC coast...”

Bergen, Norway p65 In Bergen’s harbour… p67 Det Hanseatiske Museum…WELL WORTH A VISIT… ”

p68 p69 The BRYGGEN Wharf, a UNESCO site, a fitting finish to your journey…”

p70 p71 p73 Day 1 & Day 2 The following day is devoted leisure hours and, remarkably to an exploration of Oslo. In in expensive Norway, the Arrive at your the morning we suggest to entrance is free of charge. leisure in Oslo. In take you to the Viking museum the evening, a warm which, despite it being touristy, Time permitting, we may also welcome dinner is very much worth a visit. want to pay a visit to the Oslo Following this brief journey Ski Jump, Holmenkollbakken, for our guests AND into Norway’s history, we will of Olympic and FIS Ski Explore Oslo, the spend late morning, lunch and Jumping World Cup fame. 1000-year old capital early afternoon back in Oslo’s Looking down the jump from of Norway. Visit its center for lunch at a beautiful the top will forever raise your restaurant overlooking the bay respect for those competing in Viking Museum, and an opportunity to stroll this sport! stroll along the through Oslo’s center, its main picturesque harbour square and, if you like, the For dinner we will return to Driving Distance & Duration* front and through the main shopping avenue. the city center where we have Distance: 0 km booked our favourite place, a Duration: 0 hours remarkable Vigeland In mid-afternoon you can look hidden gem of a restaurant... park forward to visiting the Vigeland Hotel Sculpture park. It is a sizeable You will arrive today in Oslo, green space with beautiful A beautiful design hotel by the capital of Norway, based lawns and forests, fountains Oslo’s harbour (*****) on your own arrangements, and walkways and the world’s though we kindly request that largest sculpture park made by *All Driving Distances & Duration you arrive in Oslo no later than a single artist, Gustav Vigeland. are approximate 3pm. We will pick you up from There are over 200 of them Oslo’s Gardermoen airport and made in bronze, granite and transfer you to your hotel for wrought iron. the next two nights.

In the early evening we will While the park attracts many host a pre-departure meeting tourists for good reason, it and then take you to one of attracts at least as many Oslo’s finest restaurants for a native Norwegians because it Welcome Dinner. is a wonderful space to spend p75 Day 3 Nes Kirke, a small church Day 4 while later still, you will make a overlooking the lake, will be a sharp left-hand turn and after You begin your drive lovely spot for a coffee or a tea Remoter and a few minutes you will wonder along the first of break. Then you will continue Driving Distance & Duration remoter…via Dalsnibba where you’re going. You’ll have Driving Distance & Duration further northwest along the Distance: 205 km to wait until this day to find out, Distance: 280 km countless charming lake before swinging north to one of the world’s but let us just say it will be one Duration: 3.15 hours Duration: 4.15 hours country roads via Nes east across a gorgeous plateau most renowned fjords of the most memorable spots of old-growth forests to arrive to Lillehammer on the entire journey. It is also Hotel in Lillehammer in the late Hotel You have a relatively long day where you will enjoy lunch An excellent hotel overlooking afternoon. The finest hotel in today. the Geiranger Fjord (****) We leave the morning free for ahead of you today. But what a Lillehammer overlooking the beautiful day it will be. you to spend on your own. While your hotel, the In the afternoon, you will Lillehammer Hotel, has a fine lake (****) continue your drive to Point from which, weather Just before noon, we will menu, we suggest to take you At first you will follow the E6 in Geiranger, home of one of the permitting, you will have a gather for a brunch after into Lillehammer’s center for a northwesterly direction. The E6 is, by Norway’s standards, a world’s most beautiful fjords. stunning view of Geiranger and which you will set out on your dinner at a gourmet pub which its geographical context. first drive in Norway. Your the locals enjoy at least as relatively busy road. But before Before reaching Geiranger, destination for the day is long, you will turn off onto a you will drive across a pass. much as travelers. From Dalsnibba to your hotel Lillehammer where the 1994 small country road that you will Near the top of it, you will once it will take only another thirty Winter Olympics took place. For this journey, Lillehammer thoroughly enjoy driving. The again make a sharp left-hand minutes. Dinner will be at your is nothing but a stop-over scenery is just as lovely: Alpine turn which will set you in the hotel this evening. On the main road, it takes place on the way to Norway’s in a way, yet different. A little direction of the Dalsnibba View a mere 2 hours to reach spectacular fjord region. Lillehammer, but we have selected for you a much more scenic route which will whet your appetite for this driving holiday through Norway’s beautiful scenery. So, instead of heading straight north on the highway, we will bear west toward Randsfjorden which, strictly speaking, is not a fjord, but a lake. The drive across a mountain range to this lake and then along it will be thoroughly enjoyable. p77 Day 5 Trollstigen, one of Norway’s most beautiful roads, will be today’s high-light…

You can fill your morning in a In the afternoon, you are variety of ways. For example, in for one of the journey’s your hotel has an excellent highlights, the drive across spa to relax or enjoy various Trollstigen, one of Norway’s treatments. fabled mountain roads. Trollstigen itself is short, but The hotel, having been in one the entire experience – the family’s hands since 1899, ascent from Storfjorden to the Driving Distance & Duration also has a small, but very Trollstigen pass and then the special classic car collection descent via sharp serpentines Distance: 170 km which they are always pleased to Romdalsfjorden is a Duration: 3.15 hours to showcase and to tell their magnificent experience. story. Hotel Late in the afternoon you will A superb and charming Before lunch, we would like arrive at your hotel for the next to take you to the Geiranger two nights. It is the perfect boutique hotel set in beautiful Chocolate factory. “Factory” place from which to explore forests (*****) isn’t quite the right word, Alesund and its surroundings. however. It’s more like a tiny workshop, but the chocolates it produces – with almost twenty different flavors – are superb.

For lunch we propose to drive a tiny distance to a farm house high above the Geiranger Fjord. It is a rustic place, but the food they prepare is excellent. p79 Day 6 & Day 7 A day of rest in one of the most charming DAY6 hotels of the journey? Driving Distance & Duration Or an exploration of Distance: 35 km Alesund, a charming The afternoon is devoted to see the countless waterfalls Duration: 0 hours fishing port? Or hiking exploring Alesund and its disgorging their snow melt into Hotel in the hills above surroundings, including the the fjord, is a most memorable A superb and charming Storfjorden? It will be charming Alnes lighthouse experience. boutique hotel set in beautiful right by the edge of the Atlantic forests (*****) a wonderful day! Ocean. Following the crossing, you AND The Geiranger have but a 45-minute drive to DAY7 Fjord crossing will be In the late afternoon, you will your hotel for the night. This Driving Distance & Duration today’s highlight on return to your hotel for dinner. historic hotel which can trace Distance: 100 km your way south to a its origins back to 1891 is one Duration: 2.10 hours historic hotel… The following morning is free of the most special hotels on this journey. The family that is Hotel for you to enjoy at the hotel or A romantic, historic hotel with You can make a slow start its guardian has managed to by exploring its surroundings. all comforts (****) today. (Your hotel is too After lunch, you will set out create an atmosphere that is beautiful to get up early… infused with the hotel’s history: unless you would like to take toward another high-light of it feels as if one were staying in a morning walk through the the journey, the crossing of wonderful surrounding forests the Geiranger Fjord by ferry. a living museum, a work of art and countryside.) The ferry ride itself takes in its own right. That the chef approximately an hour. It is cooks superbly will make your Just before noon, you will set touristy, but it is nonetheless stay even more enjoyable. out on a short drive to Alesund, an experience you will not one of the loveliest port towns want to miss. To glide along in western Norway. After your on the ferry with majestic arrival in Alesund, we begin with a superb seafood lunch, mountains rising steeply from as befits the location. the deep fjord’s water, and to p81 Day 8 last 1 hour, we’ve selected a Day 9 hillside (right below fragrant small county road that is a joy forests and immediately Further south to drive. This road will take You may well choose to spend the day with above the dark blue waters along spectacular you through tiny villages and, Driving Distance & Duration of Lustrafjorden) and lovingly Driving Distance & Duration since it is built high-up into the country roads to Distance: 260 km Lindis, the owner preserved and cared for. Every Distance: hill-side, afford you wonderful 0 km Sogndalsfjorden Duration: 5 hours of the most special detail – from the outside’s Duration: 0 hours views of the countryside and ornamentation to the interior’s valley below. hotel on this journey. Today you will drive further wood carvings – will warm your Hotel Or drive to Urnes Hotel south toward Sogndalsfjorden, heart. all along beautiful country In the late afternoon, you will A family home converted into Stave Church, the A family home converted into arrive in a country manor, a roads. a lovely cared-for small hotel oldest in Norway…a a lovely cared-for small hotel family home that has been You can also spend a big (****) must see. Or one of a (****) While today is primarily a converted by its owners into a part of the day driving along driving day, the morning part boutique hotel. Of all the hotels million other hidden some of south-west Norway’s will be punctuated by a stop along this itinerary, it is the gems in Hafslo most beautiful roads, high at Loen where a recently most charming, the one which, up in the mountains where These are just some of the more than any other, will make extensive garden or sourcing even in the summer you will opened – in May 2017 – “Sky There are many ways to spend things you can enjoy during your you feel “at home”. Besides it locally, be it from the fjord be surrounded by snow: the Lift” gondola whisks you in today. day in Hafslo. We will help you a few minutes from the sea that, the lady chef is completely below or the forests above. Sognefjellet road goes across make arrangements so you can level – the Innvikfjorden – to in touch with nature, growing You’re in a for a feast! a 1,434 mountain pass which is Staying the day at the hotel, enjoy it to the fullest. the mountain station at 1011m. much of what she cooks in her Northern Europe’s highest. Once there, you will have a enjoying the beautiful views, 210 degree panoramic view treating yourself to a massage, overlooking Mt. Skåla and enjoying more of the owner’s Lake Lovatnet in the east, “nature pure” cooking, going Jostedalsbreen Glacier and for a gentle walk, having a Olden in the south, and the drink with a good book…it that winds its way would not be a day wasted. towards in the west. If you want to venture further In the afternoon, you will out, if we had to recommend continue driving south in wide only one place to visit, it would valleys amidst meadows and be , the alongside streams, across oldest in Norway. This nearly mountain passes and through thousand year-old church is spectacular tunnels. For the set in beautiful grounds on a p82 p83 Day 10 Aurlandsfjellet. It’s like being a guest somewhere you are A drive across the not expected. The real quality most stunningly lies in the little things, like touching the snow or dipping beautiful mountain your toes into an icy mountain pass and above tarn. The desolate landscape Aurlandsfjorden itself offers something unique, and the drive takes you from Today will be a longish driving fjords to mountains, from lush day, from Hafslo all the way to valleys to the stony wasteland Bergen, your final stop. of the high mountain region. You will encounter many You could shorten it by driving striking contrasts over a short through the world’s longest distance.” road tunnel – the 24.5km Driving Distance & Duration long Lærdal Tunnel – but For lunch we have chosen the landscape above is so a beautiful, family-owned Distance: 270 km dramatically beautiful that we restaurant in which Duration: 5.30 hours would not recommend it. happens to be the world’s center for extreme outdoor Hotel The road that leads you sports. The restaurant’s owner, Bergen’s best hotel in to heaven above is called Svein, is an amazing character Aurlandsfjellet. It is 47km to whom the proverb “quiet Bryggen, the UNESCO long. This doesn’t sound like waters run deep” applies. Yet heritage wharf (****) much, but what a beautiful when it comes to cooking, he road it is! I can’t help but quote becomes effusive and lively from an official description and will spare nothing. A true of it (since it’s rather poetic): hidden gem. “Sometimes it’s all about having the opportunity to The afternoon’s drive will take experience something exactly you to Bergen where you will as it is, neither more nor less. arrive well before dinner. For many the feeling of being in a place where there are few traces of mankind is what makes the greatest impact at p84 p85 Day 11 & Day 12 Since 1979 it has been on the A concert at UNESCO list for World Cultural Heritage sites. Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s erstwhile In the afternoon, Troldhaugen, residence; a vist Edvard Grieg’s erstwhile to the Hanseatic residence, is very much worth a visit, both for its museum Museum...a slow day as well as for a concert in its as the journey draws small, but spectacular concert to a close AND hall. All good things must Before your farewell dinner, Driving Distance & Duration come to an end... there will be ample free time Distance: 0 km for you to explore more of Bergen is Norway’s second- Bergen’s center on foot. Duration: 0 hours largest city. It has been a trading port for centuries All good things must come to Hotel (DAY 11) and is known as the home of an end. On the following day, Bergen’s best hotel in Edvard Grieg, the composer. you may need to return home Bryggen, the UNESCO It is also home to a surprising (feel free to make your onward heritage wharf (****) number of world class arrangements for any time on restaurants, some of which we Day 12), or why not stay on in have arranged for your stay in Norway or Europe? We will be Bergen. pleased to assist you with your plans. For this last day, we suggest a walking tour of Bryggen, the area where your hotel is located. Bryggen, also known as Tyskebryggen, is a series of Hanseatic commercial buildings lining the eastern side of Bergen’s harbor. p87 Choice of Cars

In Norway we can find a good selection of first-rate cars, from sedans to SUVs and, we hope soon, Teslas. See the “What’s included section” later on in this journey dossier.

The roads of Norway are a joy to drive: very well maintained; leading through spectacular scenery…Behind every turn, a new, lovely vista is revealed that will want you to keep going and going…

p88 p89 Adventures and Discoveries in Local Cuisines

While this itinerary is not one of our ‘Foodie’-themed journeys, we do believe that each one of our journeys should introduce you not only to hidden gems of cultural and scenic beauty, but that sampling local cuisines is also a must.

We will therefore arrange for you ‘tasting menus’ such that you can try out a variety of specialties during each meal. While alcoholic beverages are not included in the price, on certain occasions, when we believe that a particular dish is best enjoyed when combined with a local drink, we will make it part of the experience!

For private journeys, we can, of course, tailor the meal experience to your taste (and budget).

p90 p91 What’s Included / Best Months to Go...

Best months to go...

Generally speaking, our journey described in this Journey • All accommodations • Pre-programmed GPSs and • On the Road in Europe What’s Not Included packages and prices are all- Dossier printed maps service (goodies basket and • A BMW X3 Series SUV (or inclusive. Once you’ve paid and other treats along the way: • Your transport to/from Oslo • A crew existing of a journey similar) from one of our you arrive at the starting point, • Walky-talkies to stay in touch wet towels, daily picnic, • Petrol for your car host, subject matter experts/ highly reputable car rental you really won’t have to take with fellow travelers and your basket containing fresh fruit, destination guides in various partners, including Top- • Personal shopping out your wallet again except for crew fruit juice, water, and a locations and a lead car up Collision Damage Waiver • Visas (if required) liquids (alcoholic drinks and mixture of sweets and nibbles) driver. Depending on group insurance. • All toll fees and parking fees petrol) and presents to take • Alcoholic drinks (unless size, we will add additional home! Some car-upgrade options • Entrance fees for all attended • All tips explicitly included) crew members. exist at an extra charge. activities • Hand-crafted On the Road in • Activities, Meals, Transport Europe – Back Roads. Hidden • All meals in ‘tasting menu’ • All ground transportation and • Lead car for your crew during ‘free times’ as indicated Gems. – Itinerary design as (or omakase) style airport transfers in this Journey Dossier p93 Photo Credits

© Bård Basberg - page 47 © Bestebakken Hotel - pages 50-55 © Brimi Fjellstugu - pages 16-17 © Dalsnibba - pages 18, 76(bottom) © Ernst Riha - page 82 © Espen Haagensen - page 46 © FredrikssonM - page 2 © Hanseatic Musem Bergen - pages 68-69 © Hotel Union Øye - pages 44-45 © Jarle Wæhler - page 88(middle) © Kjetil Rolseth - page 58 © Kristina Jakubikova - page 64 © Magne FlemsÊter - pages 32, 88(bottom) © Mark McCourt - page 8 © Norway Tourism - Food - pages 90-91 Others - Front & Back Cover, pages 4, 10, 12, 14-15, 22, 38, 70, 75, 77, 81(top), 87, 94, 97 Sognefellet - pages 83, 88(top), 89, 92 © Peter Schindler - pages 13, 20, 28, 30, 36, 40-41, 42, 48, 56-57, 60, 62, 66 © PiG - page 26 © Roger Ellingsen - pages 79, 85 © Scandic Lillehammer Hotel - page 76(room) © Storfjord Hotel - pages 34-35, 81(bottom) © Westeras Farm - pages 24-25 Unknown - pages 27, 72

p94 p95 Contact Us

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