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M O R E K N I T T I N G P a T T E R N S a R E a V a I L a B L E

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M O R E K N I T T I N G P a T T E R N S a R E a V a I L a B L E This pattern contains a range of sweater designs from easy to more challenging knits. There is a Fair-Isle design sweater, a cabled sweater and a reversible top-down cardigan/button back sweater. There are also 3 different styles of simple sweater which can be customised by choosing from eight seasonal designs worked in duplicate stitch. M o r e k n i t t i n g p a t t e r n s a r e a v a i l a b l e a t www.littlecottonrabbits.typepad.co.uk © Copyright 2014 , All rights reserved J u l i e W i l l i a m s, L i t t l e C o t t o n R a b b i t s page 1 One of my favourite things about making knitted toys is top down cardigan / button back sweater. coming up with new designs for their clothing. Over the Both the cabled Aran sweater and the Fair Isle design have years I've worked on lots of different ideas and now I come written instructions rather than charts. All of the colour to look at them I realise that they fit quite well into work charts for use with the simple sweater are intended seasonal categories, so included here are designs that are to be worked in duplicate stitch as this s the easiest way to fitting for Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. add multiple colours but you can adapt them to be worked There are a couple of different options for the style of the using Intarsia during the knitting up if you prefer. sweater, including striped sleeves or a sleeve in a I hope you enjoy using these patterns to create a wardrobe contrasting colour and there are also instructions for a of different sweaters for your knitted animals. cabled Aran sweater, a Fair Isle sweater and a reversible . A b b r e v i a t i o n s: These increase methods are described in detail in the These decrease methods are described in detail in the excellent knitting help website: excellent knitting help website: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/decreases SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT) : Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to M1A: MAKE 1 STITCH AWAY. I use the thumb method the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same (see link above) to make a backwards loop in the way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand working yarn and place this loop onto the right needle, needle and knit together through the back loops. so the working yarn is pointing away from you. K2TOG : Knit 2 stitches together This is also a useful stitch to use when casting on between 2 sections of knitting (to make the bottom of P2TOG : Purl 2 stitches together the armholes on the top down cardigan) P2TOG TBL: Purl 2 stitches together through the back loops And please note that when the pattern mentions cast on, I use a cable cast on. Y a r n s u g g e s t i o n s: Each pattern is knitted on 2.75mm needles with 4ply (fingering / sock weight yarn). I prefer to knit the clothing in 4ply cotton/cotton mix yarns. I particularly like Rowan Wool Cotton 4ply , DMC Natura or Drops Safran as all knit up nicely and have a good range of colours. Patons 4ply cotton also comes in a wide range of colours but is thinner, so you will need to check your gauge if the clothes are to fit. It may be worth looking on Ravelry to see what yarns others are using and recommending. G a u g e: Gauge for all sweaters: 7 stitches x 10 rows to 1 inch using 4ply/fingering/sock yarn and 2.75mm (US size 2) needles I plan to write up some extra tips about knitting and finishing techniques, so please pop by for a visit and check out my knitting tips section on the Little Cotton Rabbits blog. There is also a Little Cotton Rabbits group on Ravelry which is a great source of tips, information and friendly fun: http://www.ravelry.com/groups/little-cotton-rabbits . © Copyright, All rights reserved. No part of these patterns may be reproduced in any form. These patterns are supplied for your personal and non-commercial use only. © Copyright 2014 , All rights reserved J u l i e W i l l i a m s, L i t t l e C o t t o n R a b b i t s page 2 I n d e x o f p a t t e r n s a n d c h a r t s: p a t t e r n n a m e l e v e l o f d i f f i c u l t y p a g e Cosy Aran sweater moderate/difficult page 4 Top down cardigan easy/moderate page 7 Nordic sweater easy/moderate page 9 Simple sweater (plain) easy page 11 Simple sweater (coloured sleeves) easy page 13 Simple sweater (striped sleeves) moderate page 15 c h a r t n a m e l e v e l o f d i f f i c u l t y p a g e Love heart easy page 17 Skull & Crossbones easy/moderate page 17 Butterfly easy page 18 Playful puppy moderate page 18 Family car moderate page 19 Jack O'lantern easy page 19 Robin Redbreast moderate page 20 Oh Christmas tree easy page 20 I also plan to publish occasional free supplements with extra chart designs and additional accessories. You can download free copies of these from Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/stores/little-cotton-rabbits © Copyright 2014 , All rights reserved J u l i e W i l l i a m s, L i t t l e C o t t o n R a b b i t s page 3 C o s y A r a n s w e a t e r: M a t e r i a l s: S p e c i a l a b b r e v i a t i o n s: • 2.75mm (US 2) needles CDD: CENTRED DOUBLE DECREASE: slip 2 stitches • 4ply/sock weight yarn in cream / natural together as if to knit them, K1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over (note: it is important that they are • a small button slipped together and NOT one at a time) A moderately difficult sweater with simple cable work on the right side of the work only. This sweater is worked in separate pieces up to the armhole but from the armhole upwards to the neck is worked across all the pieces at once. Please note: it is very important that you work all of the pieces in the following order: st nd 1 sleeve, front, 2 sleeve, back This will ensure that they are all in the correct place when you get to row 16 and work back across all of the stitches. When casting on the pieces for the front, second sleeve and back, keep the needle holding the piece/s already worked in your right hand and the empty needle in your left. C a b l e a b b r e v i a t i o n s: C2F, CABLE 2 FRONT: slip the next stitch onto the C3B, CABLE 3 BACK: slip next stitch onto the cable cable needle and hold at front of work, knit the needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 next stitch from left-hand needle then knit the stitches from left-hand needle then knit the stitch stitch from the cable needle from the cable needle C2B, CABLE 2 BACK: slip the next stitch onto the C3F, CABLE 3 FRONT: slip next 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at back of work, knit the cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next next stitch from left-hand needle then knit the stitch from left-hand needle then knit the 2 stitch from the cable needle stitches from the cable needle T3F, TWIST 3 FRONT: slip next 2 stitches onto the C5B, CABLE 5 BACK: slip next 3 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 stitch from left-hand needle then knit the 2 stitches from left-hand needle then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle stitches from the cable needle T3B, TWIST 3 BACK: slip next stitch onto the CDD: CENTRED DOUBLE DECREASE: slip 2 stitches cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 together as if to knit them, K1, pass the 2 slipped stitches from left-hand needle then purl the stitch stitches over (note: it is important that they are from the cable needle slipped together and NOT one at a time) On the wrong side of the work all knit stitches are knitted and all purl stitches are purled (I've still given you full written instructions for these reverse side rows in case you prefer to follow along). © Copyright 2014 , All rights reserved J u l i e W i l l i a m s, L i t t l e C o t t o n R a b b i t s page 4 F i r s t s l e e v e: Using 2.75mm needles cast on 24 stitches, leaving a tail of yarn 7 inches long for sewing up side seam later.
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