VOLUME 8 NO. 6 JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] COCOM STRIPESKOREA.COMST FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE INSIDE INFO

PAGES 2-3

DMZ/JSA TOURS REOPEN PAGES 6-7

Special pullout inside! FEAR OF THE FAN An urban legend heats up in the summer

BY CHIHON KIM, STRIPES KOREA very time I clean the electronic fan in my parents keeping the legend alive and tell- this devilishly hot weather, I recall an old ing me to keep the door open when I slept with Eurban legend from my childhood: death the fan on. by fan. Where did this improbable story start? De- Some Koreans believe that if you sleep with pending on who you ask, the origin differs. One a fan on in an enclosed space, like a room with of the stranger stories is that the South Korean the door shut, you will die. This may sound ab- government created the myth as propaganda to surd to you, but it’s no joke to some, and it dates back decades. Even in the 1990s, I remember SEE FEAR ON PAGE 11 File photo 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019

Korea’s Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher 2019-20 ‘Best’ Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander recognized Joshua M Lashbrook c Chief of Staff his month, Stars and Stripes Pacifice Michael Davidson commander Lt. Col. Rich McClintic Revenue Director handed out certificates to some of the Chris Verigan T Engagement Director winners of this year’s Best of the Pacific Marie Woods competition. The winners of the annual vote Publishing and Media Design Director appear in the 2019-20 edition of Best of the Chris Carlson Publishing and Media Design Manager Pacific magazine. It is comprised of 24 cat- Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. egories, with some including small and large Korea Area Manager base winners, and four regions - mainland Jinsun Song Japan, Okinawa, Korea, Guam. The 48-page Operations Manager magazine, which is stocked full of quotes Kentaro Shimura Production Manager from the military community, can be picked Rie Miyoshi up at Stars and Stripes boxes and offices Engagement Manager across U.S. bases in Korea. Denisse Rauda Publishing and Media Design Editor USAG Humphreys Exchange - Best Exchange Publishing and Media Design Writers ChiHon Kim Shoji Kudaka Takahiro Takiguchi Layout Designers Ayako Kamio Yukiyo Oda Yuko Okazaki Kayoko Shimoda Multimedia Consultants Max Genao Doug Johnson Brian Jones Jason Lee Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman Graphic Designers Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji Sales Support Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha

For feedback and inquiries, contact [email protected]

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Photo courtesy of Bike

Seoul Bike app provides Speakin’ fun way to explore big city Let’s goo Korean BY CHIHON KIM, for a bikeke STRIPES KOREA Seoul Bike WHERE: As of the end of last year, there were 1,540 bike rental centers, and ride! ike-sharing services have the average distance between rental stations was 500 meters. This year taken large cities globally by Seoul will increase the number of rental centers to 2,140. In 2020, it is Bstorm, and Seoul is also a host expected to expand to 3,040 and the distance between rental centers „ Do you kknownoow wwhere the nearest to its own fleet of wheels. Bicycles are will be reduced to 300 meters. bike share is? Gakkaun jajeongeo a good option for exploring the city, HOW TO RENT: Credit, T-money and mobile payment including PAYCO and daeyeosoga eodi inneunji aseyo? while reducing pollution and help- KAKAO PAY are available. „ Want to go for a bike ride? Jajeongeo ing to alleviate traffic congestion. In- TIP: If traveling with multiple people, you can buy a group ticket for tareo gallaeyo? spired by Bixi, a public bicycle shar- multiple bike rentals. See website. „ Helmet: Helmet https://www.bikeseoul.com/ (ENG) ing system serving Montreal, Canada, WEBSITE: „ Bicycle: Jajeongeo Seoul installed its own public bike service called “Ttareungyi” in 2014, „ Bike lock: jajeongeo Jamulsoe with about 20,000 bikes now in circu- You’ll recognize Ttareungyi bikes to return the bike you’ve rented to the „ Bike parking: Jajeongeo jucha lation. A few other companies offer by their white and green color. Each spot where you picked it up. Bikes can „ Follow me. Nareul ttara oseyo. bike-sharing in the city, but the ser- bike is equipped with a lock and card be returned to any of the Ttareungyi „ Watch out for cars! Cha josimhaseyo! vice area is limited. reader. spots near where your exploring takes „ My bike has broken down. Reserve your own set of wheels Both the app and website are avail- you. A “Return is completed” mes- Jajeongeoga gojang nasseoyo. sage will appear on the bike’s screen ahead of time by usingsing thethe SeoulSeoul BBikeike ableable inin EnglishEnglish asas well. Register your „ My bike got a flat tire! Taieo-ga T-MoneyT-Money ccarda or transportation to let you know you’ve returned it app or website for a mere 1,0001,000 won peongkeu nasseoyo! card for quicker service. correctly. And don’t forget to lock the (about $0.85) per hhour.our. You „ I am thirsty. Mongmallayo don’t have to be a memmem-- OnceOnce you’ve registered bike to prevent theft. I need some water. Mul masigo ber to use the servicervice your card, you can tap Next time you find yourself in „ and they even offerer youryou card on the bike’s Seoul, give this cost-effective and sipeoyo. longer-term rentalal cardca reader and go! planet-saving alternative a shot for „ Let’s rest here for a while. tickets by the week,k, The best part of your adventure. It’s good exercise and Yeogiseo jamkkan swieotda gayo. month, six monthshs a Ttareungyi is that a fun time! – ChiHon Kim and full year. you’reyo not required [email protected] Courtesy of Seoul Bike 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019

VISITORS TO SEE MORE THAN BEFORE reopens DMZ/JSA tours

STORY AND PHOTO BY year ago. That’s because South back, unimpressed, from the au- formation with an arm-swinging and returns at 3:30 p.m., and in JOSEPH DITZLER, Korean authorities lessened the thoritarian North Korea. gait. addition to the JSA also includes STARS AND STRIPES Published: July 4, 2019 tight choreography around per- But the atmosphere today at School, civic and business a stop at the third infiltration sonal visits as part of their bid to the remote, surreal compound groups from the South schedule tunnel, a walk along 870 feet of a ou don’t have to be leader reach some form of normal rela- surrounded by rice paddies and their trips to the DMZ months in tunnel dug 240 feet underground of the free world to visit tions with their northern neigh- wilderness is much more relaxed advance. Our small group was by the North Koreans years ago YPanmunjom — the truce bors. than it was before the South in bunched together with a group of as a means of infiltrating troops village in the Demilitarized Zone For example, guards on either May reopened its side for public journalists from one of South Ko- into the South. where President Donald Trump side of the line demarking the tours. rea’s largest broadcasters. Their The tour also stops at a South shook hands June 30 with Kim boundary between North Korea Our escort from U.S. Forces CEO, polished and businesslike Korean hilltop observation post Jong Un of North Korea. and South Korea no longer carry Korea said that only visitors and in a blue suit, moved like a rock with a good view of the opposing Numerous tour groups pro- sidearms. Visi- guards from one star on tour, accompanied by a side. It also includes the Dorasan vide opportunities to see the spot tors have a little EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: side are in that photographer who captured the train station, the northernmost where the three-year Korean more opportunity small but histori- visit for posterity. station in South Korea along the War ended with an armistice to walk the area, cally heavy area You can’t visit the JSA on your rail line that once connected the in 1953. Tour companies in the although closely at a time. Neither own (checkpoints lie between the two countries. private sector abound, along monitored. side coordinates highway and your destination), The tour company also oper- with military operations like the Past images with the other; it just seems to but tours can be arranged online. ates a separate half-day tour that Force Support Squadron at Osan from Panmunjom depicted lean, work out that way. Discover Seoul, for instance, omits the JSA and includes only Air Base and Discover Seoul, a ramrod-straight, uniformed Eight tour groups from the runs tours from the Dragon Hill the tunnel, observation post and contract tour operator at Dragon guards from South Korea in mir- South pass daily through the Lodge at Yongsan Garrison ev- train station. It leaves the Drag- Hill Lodge at Yongsan Garrison. ror shades, stone-faced, arms area. Tour groups from the North ery Thursday and Saturday for on Hill Lodge at 7:50 a.m. and A trip to Panmunjom — the at sides and fists clenched in a are visible to those from the $89 per person. Seats are limit- returns at 1 p.m. area around the historic U.N.- “ready” posture borrowed from South, awaiting their opportunity ed, so book in advance, and bring Our trip north by expressway blue buildings is officially known taekwondo. to walk around the area, and with your military ID or passport on took us past the Seoul skyline, as the Joint Security Area — is Standing only yards away, luck you might glimpse a line of the day. where every skyscraper a bit different than it was just a their opposite numbers stared North Korean troops moving in That tour leaves at 7:40 a.m. seems to sprout a

Susung Lake

- National Dusan five-way crossing Police Agency Dulan-gil JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 7

Visit the DMZ

DIRECTIONS: Several tour companies in South Korea offer trips to the Joint Security Area in the Demilitarized Zone. Tours are available through Discover Seoul at its counter in the Dragon Hill Lodge, Yongsan Garrison.

TIMES: Most tours to the DMZ are day-long, round trips; a half-day trip skips the JSA but stops at the tunnel, observation post, DMZ museum and the train station.

COSTS: Trips advertised at aggregates sites like TripAdvisor run from about $50 to $90. Discover Seoul lists its DMZ excursion at $89 and its half-day trip at $50. The 51st Force Support Squadron at Osan Air Base offers a half-day DMZ and Tunnel No. 3 tour on Saturdays in July with a guide and buffet lunch for $45.

FOOD: None available at the site, although some tours offer a stop for lunch (at your expense) or for shopping.

INFORMATION: Discover Seoul operates from Yongsan Garrison in Seoul. Its DSN number is 315- 738-2222; website: www.discoverseoultours.com. It’s open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., seven days a week. Osan services can be reached by phone at DSN 315-784-4254.

transfer onto a tour bus after a agree to do nothing the North This setting triggers the selfie bathroom break, a walk through Koreans might use to their ad- urge in even the most restrained the second-floor DMZ museum vantage as propaganda, such as individual. The guards block the and an introductory video in an making faces or hand gestures. door leading into North Korea air-conditioned auditorium. From the visitors’ center, a proper, but visitors have a few The video pushes an optimis- short bus ride takes us through a minutes to lollygag on that side of crane, the architecture what’s at stake if the peace does tic outlook for normal ties be- gap in a substantial fence topped the room before a terse, barked of business climbing not hold. tween North and South. It’s com- with serious razor wire and then command that needs no transla- posed mostly of outtakes from another mile to the JSA. The tion prompts us to file back into always higher. The city skyline The expressway gives way the inter-Korean summit of April fence marks the southern limit the sunshine. eventually gives way to forma- as we exit onto a bridge and a 2018, when South Korean Presi- of the 2 ½-mile-wide, 160-mile- Still buzzing from our foray tions of residential towers, whole checkpoint, where we’re given a dent Moon Jae-in and North Ko- long DMZ. Beyond the fence into North Korea, our visit af- battalions of them in varying de- desultory wave-through after an rean leader Kim Jong Un met at are wilderness and rice pad- terward is anticlimactic but still signs, from wide, broad and tall ID check. The asphalt turns to the Joint Security Area for talks, dies cultivated by the residents memorable. to short, broad and squat. dirt and the narrow road passes handshakes and photo ops. of Taesong-dong, also known Our hosts point out the tree On the way to a vestige of a through shrubland, forested hills After the video, we sign forms as “Freedom Village,” the only planted by Kim and Moon and crippling war, the passing scen- and rough wooden signage for acknowledging that despite the South Korean population center the extension to a wooden walk- ery illustrates the economic Army ranges. good feelings all around, this is inside the DMZ. way where the two leaders progress the South has made in After 20 minutes, we arrive still a place where things could Its North Korean counterpart passed a few minutes in private the intervening 66 years, and at the visitors’ center, where we rapidly go sideways. We also sits less than a mile away on the conversation over tea. The group other side and is visible from backtracked to a space several the South’s observation post. It’s yards south of the line where been dubbed “Propaganda Vil- a monument stands to a South lage” because it’s believed to be Korean soldier killed during a largely vacant and just for show. firefight as a visiting Soviet citi- At the South side of the JSA zen defected across the line in rise the Peace and Freedom November 1984. Three North buildings, further expressions of Korean soldiers were also killed. goodwill. Visitors pass through The walk from Freedom the Freedom House, preceded House to the T-buildings, past by a squad of South Korean sol- the memorial tree to the catwalk diers trooping out in a column as and back to the soldier’s memo- if changing the guard. rial were added in May when the After the summit last year, South resumed the tours. North and South agreed in prin- Previously, visitors were ciple that visitors should be able shuttled into the T-building con- to roam the compact area freely, ference room for a few minutes, but the North stopped showing with time outside for only a few up to meetings to iron out the photos straight ahead of the de- details amid frustration over marcation line, with no shots stalled nuclear talks with the permitted to the right or left. United States. So, the two sides After the tour, the bus returns do their own thing. past the rice paddies and the More sites are available than DMZ fence to the visitors’ cen- were previously, but you still ter, where, alas, the gift shop that may not roam freely, and the once sold mementoes like bits of guards are there to keep their DMZ barbed wire, North Korean guests from crossing the line. wine and a JSA Lego set is no They position themselves more. There is a nice tank dis- facing the tourists, who have a play, though. few minutes outside before be- Unlike sites dedicated to ing ushered into one of three events lost to living memory, a one-story, blue buildings with trip to the DMZ puts the visitor a conference room and a table at the plexus of current events situated so the demarcation line on the Korean Peninsula. This runs lengthwise down its center. relic of the Cold War is still hot One side, South Korea; the other, and worth a visit. Just don’t ex- North Korea. These are the T- pect a personal greeting by Kim buildings, where face-to-face Jong Un. meetings take place between [email protected] representatives from both sides. Twitter: @JosephDitzler 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, participation is simple: If someone shoots you with a wa- met a bun STRIPES KOREA ter gun around Sinchon-ro, shoot back. Don’t forget, this know,” sa festival is the only place where you can legally “shoot” United Sta inchon is one of Seoul’s university hubs. each other, be it your friend or a stranger. It’s better Flooded with college students from the There is no entrance fee for this festival, but if you concert b three major schools in the district, there want to look like a serious water gunfighter, take a look at wet at ano are many spots to get a cheap meal, in- the festival defense package for 11,900 won (or $10.09), On the expensive clothing and enjoy fun activi- which includes goggles, towels, waterproof bag and the day festiv ties that won’t hurt your pocket too badly. use of the locker and changing rooms. main stre Every year, as the summer heats up, the area is also Of course, you can buy each host to the Sinchon Water Gun Festival near Yonsei Uni- item separately. The water gun versity. Held the first weekend in July, the event draws price ranges from 6,000 won (or SINCHON WATER GUN many water gun-clad students and tourists ready to attack $5.09) to 12,200 won (or $10.34) at each other in a friendly battle as DJs set the soundtrack. the venue. By the way, all proceeds PERRIOD: Next one will be July 20 After a fierce battle, warriors celebrate their victories in from the event go to charity. LOCCAATTIONN: Area of Yeonse-ro road restaurants and coffee shops that sit along the Sinchon-ro. Some people brought backpack Sinchon18-63, Changcheon-do Though this year’s festival was held on July 6 and July sprayers, while others simply Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 7, you should definitely check it out next year. (Note: I brought a bucket. You can bring CONTTAACT:: 1522-9223, 1330 Travel always try to write about things you anything that can be filled with wa- HOOTLLINNE: +82-2-1330 (Korean, Eng can enjoy in the near future, but I ter, so choose your weapon wisely! Japanese, Chinese) really wanted to check this fest out, Or you don’t need to bring or buy TRAANNSSPORTAATIOON: Sinchon Station so let’s call this a really early plug any water guns and raincoat if, like exit 2 or 3 for next year’s event.) me, you’d rather be a peaceful ob- WEEBSSIITE: https://m.kkday.com/en/ I exited Sinchon Station’s Exit 3 server. product/12244 (ENG) and walked straight into the center Tons of locals and tourists joined URRL: http://www.watergunfestiva of the battlefield. I found it easily in and battled each other with their main/main.html (KOR only) as all the vendors in the under- colorful water guns. They chased ground shopping and sprayed each other without an- area were sell- ger. It was pure joy! I even spotted some participants in won’t wan ing water guns. Marvel and Joker costumes. tival. The method of “There’s a lot of people and they’re having fun. I’ve kim.chihon

Photo courtesy of moounga JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 9 Check it out PLENTY TO DO IN SINCHON

Sinchon’s neighboring districts like Hongadae have started to take note and attract students and youth with similar trendy bars and indie music venues. But before you leave Sinchon, make sure to stop in at some of the many great spots for interesting food and cool attractions in this hip area. Sinchon Playbus Located in Star Plaza, the Sinchon Playbus is literally a repurposed two-story bus. Split into three sections, each has different uses for tourists. The first, the “Welcome Zone,” is for getting useful travel information. At “Story Zone,” the second section, get a glimpse of Sinchon’s colorful history. Finally, the “Experience Zone” is equipped with real broadcasting equipment so you can try yourr hand at DJing or podcasting. Check this bus out for fun events like the visual radio programam which draws in a crowd and more informationon on Sinchon’s cool attractions. ADDRESS: 31-123 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul PHONE: 02-330-1809 nch of people I don’t HOURS OF OPERATION: 1100 a.m. to 2100 p.m. (Closed Monday, Public Holiday) aid Chelsea from the FEE: Free Admission ates. “It’s pretty cool. Boxquare r than going to the ecause you can’t be TheTh Boxquare, just across from other concert.” SSinchonin Station, is a restaurant first day of the two- cocomplex housed inside of three val, the 0.24 miles-long sstacked shipping containers. It et that rolls down from the gate of Sinchon oopened in last year and has become Station to the front gate of a hot spot for young people looking Yonsei University was ffor inexpensive and delicious food. N FEST jam-packed with people of Each of the 34 eateries in BBoxquare offer a variety of 20 all ages and nationalities, armed with a raincoat and uunique foods and drinks by young d in enentrepreneurs trying their hands water gun. According to the ong, at ttheh restaurant industry. You can organizers, the festival at- chchooseoos anything from Japanese cuisine tracted more than 100,000 to FFrenchrenc wine at cheaper price than any participants this year. glish, restaurant iin Seoul. The best part of this space It’s been two weeks and I is that you can enjoy the spectacular views of Sinchon n, still feel pumped from the while enjoying your meal from the balconies on the rooftop. sights and sounds of the One of the popular spots is Foodod of Lock on the second floor, where / fest. Though this year’s you can fill your belly with a “waburger,”burger,” a wawaffleffle buburger,rger, fforor jujustst 4,000 festival is over, it is only won ($3.39). The waburger is madee with a mix al.co.kr/ one example of the fun of ground beef and pork topped wwithith island things Sinchon has year- sauce and pickles on soft waffle buns.uns. They round you won’t want to also serve up a healthy raspberryerry vivinegarnegar miss. And, you definitely drink that costs just 1,500 won nt to miss next year’s Water Gun Fes- to wash your tasty waburger aburger down. The burger, though a W @stripes.com bit small, can be ordered in a ssetett THINGS TO KNOW that includes the drink and a sideide of onion rings for 6,500 won. „Fitting rooms and lockers available At France Gourmet, a wine with wristband (11,900 won or café next door, try French wine $10.09). and finger foods at a reasonable „Do not shoot vendors and passers-by price. I sampled the hot-red coloreded with water guns and never put any Vin chaud, mulled wine served hotot other liquid except water in a water or cold. It was not that strong and hhadad gun. a subtle flavor. I especially enjoyedd iitsts scent „If you’re not taking the water gun and appreciated that it tasted morere like tea than home, throw it away in the recycling wine. Thibault Verlhac, is from Francence and manamanagesges the café. Verlhac is bin near the locker room at the knknowledgeable on the wine the caféafé stocks and will recommend great elementary school. Used water guns food pairings as well.l. will be sent to a company that makes On the fifirst floor, check out some cheap snacks like beautiful sculptures made of the the addaddictively-spicy Topokki, a spicy stir-fried rice plastic water guns. cake dish, and Cupbap, a rice bowl mixed with ffreshres veggies, meat and more. No food item hehere costs more than 4,000 won. On Thursdays, street musicians hold live cconcerts at Boxsquare, making it a lively pplace for good food and good music. ADDRESS:A 22-5 Sinchonnyeok-ro, Daehyeon- ddong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul HOURS:H 1100am to 0900 pm GOUR ONLINE:ON http://www.boxquare.kr/, https://www. ANCE MET facebook.com/SINCHONBOXQUARE,ffac https:// FR wwwww.instagram.com/sinchon_boxquare/w 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 a three- Italian bistro satisfi es year risotto craving STORY AND PHOTOPHOTOS OS BY KimKim opopenedened tthishi s rerelaxing,l axi ng, one- MyMifhdhfd wife had thehehf seafoodseafoosea cream MATT KEELER, of-a-kind restaurant seven years pasta, which included shrimp, STARS AND STRIPES ago. clams and scallops. The season- Published: July 4, 2019 The Kitchen has a simple sev- ing was spot on and even when she t was 2015 the last time I was en-page menu offering various thought she was full, she refused here in South Korea, in the city styles of salad, pasta, pizza, steak to let any go to waste. Mushroom Cream Risotto of Uijeongbu, and got my first and desserts in both English and We also ordered a tiramisu I Korean. Nearly a dozen different to share, and when the English- taste of an Italian mushroom ri- sotto at a local restaurant. beers are available, along with speaking waiter brought it to our That same year, our family re- house wine, and dozens more vari- table, the chef personally brought eties of fancier wine from around along some complimentary ice located to Fort Bragg, N.C., and the globe if your pockets are deep cream topped with espresso. What wasted little time searching for a enough. His most expensive bottle, a great-tasting combo. The tira- restaurant that served that same a French vintage, will set you back misu left me wanting more and the great dish just the way we found 290,000 won (about $250). espresso topping on the ice cream it in Uijeongbu. We found several Don’t be alarmed, though; his is a must for anyone who has to basic Italian restaurants but near- food was delicious and is reason- have their morning cup every day. ly all offered only the basics: pizza, ably affordable (minus the over- For 42,000 won (about $36), my Seafood Cream Pasta pasta and variety of wines. priced steaks) for anyone looking wife and I had a great experience Returning to the peninsula for a great meal with friends or in this quiet little bistro and see nearly five years later, my wife and loved ones. ourselves returning next time we I were excited to find an EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: During my visit, are craving the cuisine. For those Italian menu nearby an American couple with picky eaters, the owner was that offered our favorite celebrated their wed- kind enough to allow me to get our choice. ding anniversary daughter a kid’s meal from around The Kitchen Del Vino, just out- at The Kitchen and were very the corner. side of the train sta- pleased with their salad and pizza. [email protected] tion, or AK Plaza as most people They chose The Kitchen over all refer to it, is an extremely conve- the other options in the city based aurant info Tiramisu for dessert nient Italian bistro that should be on online reviews and word of Rest on everyone’s radar during their mouth, they said. Location: 2F Rodeostar, 291-2, Pyeongtaek-dong, Pyeongtaek-si, Gyeonggi- stay in Korea. I knew exactly what I want- do, or GPS 36.992056, 127.089497 Owner and chef Kim Gwang ed just from the first page of the Hours: 4:00 p.m. to 1 a.m.; closed Mondays Sub mastered his French and Ital- menu, the mushroom cream risotto Prices: Entrees range from 13,000-20,000 won; desserts, about 6,000 won; ian cooking during a decade at the (15,000 won). Topped with at least and steaks, 49,000 won Ritz-Carlton hotel in Seoul. The three varieties of mushrooms, this Dress: Casual Ritz has since closed and reopened was a delight after waiting more Directions: Less than a 5-minute walk from Pyeongtaek Station, or AK Plaza. as the Le Meridien. than three years to find. Information: 031-658-2323 JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 11

File photo

5 minutes FEAR: from Camp Carroll Gate 4 on foot

Contact us Fan death, 070-7636-0010 fact or fiction?

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 deaths in the summer. Of course, some fans even feature 32 dif- many believed they were fan ferent speeds. To find a fan with- reduce the energy consumption deaths, and inaccurate reporting out a timer function is extremely of households during the 1970s’ fueled that belief. rare in Korea because of the fear energy crisis. Never proven, this Even as recently as 2007, the of fan death. is more conspiracy theory than media reported an unfortunate Though I know the idea of it truth, especially since the rumor situation involving five college is a little silly now, I must admit about fan death dates back fur- students who attempted suicide that I still set the timer on my ther to Japanese colonial rule. by fan death. The five survived, fan. Sleeping with the air condi- Although the origin of the but the media said the reason tioner on is not part of the urban myth isn’t clear, the superstition they did was because one of the myth, so these days that’s how about fan death has been fueled five turned off the fan, further I sleep. And whenever there by the media throughout the fanning the flames. is a fan on in a closed room, I years. The fears about electric Still, for the most part, people am somewhat uncomfortable. fans date back to 1920s, when have begun to realize that there A feeling that I’m sure I won’t newspapers wrote about the is no validity in so-called fan shake anytime soon. risks of anoxia, which is a lack of deaths. However, many older [email protected] oxygen. Koreans still fear death by fan. In the early 1970s, a couple Thanks to this fear, the of newspapers warned readers electric fan industrystry about medical risks such as hy- has had to adjust.t. Speakin’ pothermia. These reports also Fan makers addedd Summerer coincided with a few mysterious time functions andd talk Korean

„ Please turn off the fan. Seonpunggi kkeojuseyo eodi isseoyoisseoyo?? „ Do you know where I can get a cheap fan? „ Please turn the ACC ddown.own EeokeonEeokeon oondondo Eodiseo seonpunggi ssage sal su inneunji jom natchwojwoyo. arayo? „ It’s hot outside! Bakke eomcheong „ I don’t sleep with the fan on. Nan deowoyo! seonpunggi eopsineun motjayo. „ What is the temperature? Myeot doyeyo? „ Please turn the fan this way. Seonpunggi „ Can you set the timer on the fan for baram ijjogeuro haejuseyo. one hour? Seonpunggi taimeoreul „ Where is the air conditioner? Eeokeon eodi hansiganeuro matchwo jullaeyo? isseoyo? „ I would like to purchase a fan. Seonpunggi „ Where is the remote control? Rimokeoneun sago sipeoyo.

Fan - Sonpunggi Humidity - Seupgi Ventilation - Hwangi Air conditioner - Eeokeon Bedtime - Chwichimsigan Heat wave - Pogyeom Summer - Yeoreum Electric bill - Jeongise – ChiHon Kim 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019

Boryeong Mud Festival cultural events and unique hands-on HAPPENINGS programs. As Korea’s first general ocean festival, it puts on many exciting programs including a great opening ceremony, cultural performances, OFF BASE and other special events. With a total of 5 beaches holding the event, each beach has different programs and performances for all ages. TRANSPORTATION: Subway Haeundae Station (Busan Subway Line DATE: Until July 28 2), Exit 3 or 5. LOCATION: Daecheon Beach area (Mud F - Walk straight from the exit about 500 square) S V L m to arrive at Haeundae Beach. INTRODUCTION: E A S Bus Of the numerous festivals in Korea, Yeongwol Bus Terminal (approx.T 2 hr). Itakes place surrounded by the beautiful - From Busan Station, take bus 139, 140, Boryeong Mud Festival attracts the Taxi environment of Gagnwon-do. 239, 240 or 302 to Haeundae. largest number of international visitors. Take a taxi from Yeongwol Bus HOMEPAGE: www.mpyc.kr - From Busan Aiport, take Airport Bus During the festival period, tourists flock Terminal to Donggang Museum of (Korean, English) (KAL Limousine Bus) to Haeundae. to the area to experience the benefits of Photography (approx. 5 min). - From Sasang Terminal, take City Bus Boryeong’s mud while having a blast. HOMEPAGE Hwacheon Tomato Festival 31 or 31-1 bus to Haeundae. Fully immersed in both the mud and www.dgphotofestival.com (Korean only) HOMEPAGE: www.bfo.or.kr the festival’s great atmosphere, visitors (Korean, English) enjoy mud wrestling, mud sliding and Hwacheon Jjokbae (Raft) Festival even swimming in the giant mud bath. Culture Night Visitors feeling particularly energetic can try the marine mud-training course, while those looking for something more relaxing can enjoy the mud massage zone. In the evening, music and fireworks continue the party going at the beach. TRANSPORTATION: DATE: Aug. 1 - Aug. 4 Bus LOCATION: Area of 6, Munhwamaeul 1-gil, - From Seoul Central City Bus Hwacheon-gun, Gangwon-do Terminal, take an express bus to DATE: July. 27 - Aug. 4 INTRODUCTION: Boryeong. LOCATION: Area of Hwacheon-gun, The Hwacheon Tomato Festival is DATE: Aug. 9 - Aug. 11 - From Boryeong Bus Terminal, take a Bungeoseom Island held annually over four consecutive LOCATION: Areas of Suwon Hwaseong bus bound for Daecheon Beach. (10 INTRODUCTION: days in August in the area of Culture Fortress min intervals) The Hwacheon Jjokbae Festival is a Village in Sanae-myeon, Hwacheon- INTRODUCTION: - From Yongsan Station or unique summer gun. Starting off with a pre-event on Suwon Hwaseong Fortress and Yeongdeungpo Station, take a train to festival, floating the eve of the opening, it is followed by Hwaseong Haenggung Palace are the Daecheon Station. uniquely- various exhibitions, hands-on programs, venue for Suwon Culture Night. Both From Daecheon Station, take a local shaped boats performances including tables with areas are decorated with media art of bus bound for Daecheon Beach. on Hwacheon seating for one thousand people, eight night experiences. Every corner of HOMEPAGE: River. It is finding a tomato gold ring, let’s play the fortress road has history and stories www.mudfestival.or.kr held in the with tomato, tomato summer festival, to offer a historical culture experience. (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) clean region tomato soccer, children’s swimming HOMEPAGE: culturenight.swcf.or.kr of Hwacheon, pool, and other varied programs related (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Donggang International Photo Gangwon-do, to tomatoes. Tomato sales and other Festival home to otters and trout. Visitors can programs will give excitement to every Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival enjoy water-related activities, a rafting visitor. (jjokbae) contest, and athletic sport TRANSPORTATION: programs alike. From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an TRANSPORTATION: intercity bus bound for Sachang-ri Bus Bus Terminal. - From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take From the terminal, walk toward Sanae- an intercity bus to Hwacheon Terminal. ro for about 450 m and the venue will be (06:35-19:35, 20-30 min intervals / on the left. Estimated travel time: 2 hrs, 40min) (Travel time: 2 hours) - From Hwacheon Terminal, walk OR southwest about 1 km to the bridge that From Chuncheon Bus Terminal, take DATE: Until Sept. 29 crosses to Bungeoseom Island. Or, take a bus bound for Sachang-ri, Sanae- DATE: Aug. 9 - Aug. 11 LOCA TION: DongGang Museum of a taxi from the terminal (approx. 3 min; myeon. LOCATION: Pentaport Park (Incheon Photography and nearby outdoor 2,800 won). HOMEPAGE: www.tomatofestival.co.kr/ Songdo Moonlight Festival Park) exhibition spaces, Yeongwol Culture & HOMEPAGE: (Korean only) INTRODUCTION: Arts Center, areas of Yeongwol www.narafestival.com (Korean only) Pentaport Rock Festival is a rock INTRODUCTION: Busan Sea Festival festival ardently supported by not DongGang International Photo Pyeongchang Music Festival & just local rock fans, but by music fans Festival is an annual event that offers School worldwide. The festival takes place DongGang Photography Award normally in early August, in Songdo Exhibition based on traditions and City. Overseas rock bands play in a dignity. It is comprised of Main lineup with local rock musicians for an Exhibition, DongGang Photography energetic rock music festival that’s out Award Exhibition, International Open of this world! Call, Photojournalists Exhibition, TRANSPORTATION: Gangwon Province Photographers Subway Exhibition, Yeongwol County Int'l Business District Station (Incheon Photographers Exhibition, Elementary Subway Line), Exit 1 School Photo Diary Exhibition, Street DATE: Aug. 2 - Aug. 6 Bus Installation Exhibition and Workshop LOCATION: Haeundae Beach, Gwangalli Bus No. 9 ൺ Get off at Songdo 2 Dong (Yeongwol Photo Tour Program, DATE: July. 31 - Aug. 10 Beach, Dadaepo Beach, Songdo Beach, Community Service Center Continuing Education Exhibition, Artist LOCATION: Pyeongchang Alpensia & Songjeong Beach, etc. Bus No. 6-1 ൺ Get off at International Talk, Elementary Students Workshop). Areas of Gangwon-do INTRODUCTION: School Visitors can enjoy ten exhibitions and INTRODUCTION: The Busan Sea Festival was first Bus No. 908 ൺ Get off at Prugio Habor workshops during the festival period Pyeongchang Music Festival & School held in 1996 to promote Busan as a view from early-July to late-September. features world-famous performers beautiful harbor city. The festival takes Bus No. 92 ൺ Get off at Canal Walk(4D) TRANSPORTATION: every summer, and has become the place at Haeundae Beach, Gwangalli Bus No. M6405 ൺ Get off at Central Express/Intercity Bus best classical music festival in Korea. Beach, Songdo Beach, Dadaepo Beach, Park Station From Seoul Express Bus Terminal or The audience will be mesmerized by Songjeong Beach, and at other places HOMEPAGE: www.pentaportrock.co.kr Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take a bus to the variety of music programs that in Busan. The festival offers various (Korean, English, Japanese) JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 13

Bucheon International Comics Festival Subway /WLW(KTGƃ[(GUVKXCN bus 30, 31, 32, 33, 33-1, 36, 37, 38 or 39 World Cup Stadium Station (Subway (located across the street). Line 6), Exit 1 or 2. Get off at Cheongsonyeon Suryeongwan Bus Bus Stop. - Get off at Seoul World Cup Stadium or Bus World Cup Park Bus Stop. „ From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take Blue Bus - 271, 571, 710 an intercity bus to Chuncheon Intercity Green Bus - 7011, 7013A, 7013B, 7715, Bus Terminal. 7733 „ From Gangnam Express Bus Terminal Red Bus (express bus) - 9711A, 9711B (Central City Terminal), take a bus to Village Bus (Maeul bus) - Mapo08 Chuncheon. HOMEPAGE: www.seoulfringefestival.net DATE: Aug. 31 - Sept. 8 From the bus terminal, walk toward at DATE: Aug. 14 - Aug. 18 (Korean only) LOCATION: Culture Tank Onui Intersection and take Bus 150 in LOCATION: Korea Manhwa Museum, INTRODUCTION: front of Electronics Land. Bucheon Media Culture Complex Goesan Red Pepper Festival The Muju Firefly Festival takes place in Get off at the Chuncheon Puppet Theater INTRODUCTION: the pure environment of Muju, a natural Bus Stop. As Asia’s best in global comic festival, habitat for fireflies and the marsh snails HOMEPAGE: www.cocobau.com (Korean, The Bucheon International Comic the fireflies feed on. The festival offers English) Festival is ready to open for the many attractions and activities but the summer visitors. Various programs, highlight of the festival starts after 20:00 Baekje Cultural Festival such as exhibits, an international comic when the fireflies begin to light up the fair, conferences, and other various night sky. hands-on programs are available for all TRANSPORTATION: visitors. Bus TRANSPORTATION: From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take Subway an intercity bus to Muju Intercity Bus Songnae Station (Seoul Subway Line 1), DATE: Aug. 29 - Sept. 1 Terminal. Exit 2. LOCATION: Sports Complex, Mini HOMEPAGE: www.firefly.or.kr (Korean, Take Bus 5-2 or 37 and get off at football field, Culture & Sports Center, English) Bucheon Movie Cultural Complex Bus Dongjincheon Stream area Stop.(Yeongsang Munhwa Danji) INTRODUCTION: Chuncheon Puppet Festival DATE: Sept. 28 - Oct. 6 HOMEPAGE: www.bicof.com Goesan Red Pepper Festival is held LOCATION: Gongju: Areas of (Korean, English) during the harvest season to promote Geumgangsingwan Park the excellence of peppers grown in Buyeo: Areas of Gudeurae Plaza Seoul Fringe Festival Goesan, a major production area of INTRODUCTION: Korea. The festival has numerous Baekje Cultural Festival first started in programs including pepper-picking and 1955 to commemorate the three loyal barehanded fishing contests, pepper subjects of the Baekje era, namely recipe competition, pepper cooking Seongchung, Heungsu, and Gyebaek contest, and garden pepper planting. through a Samchungje rite. The festival Brightly aims to bring the history and culture colored and DATE: Sept. 28 - Oct. 3 of the Baekje era to life, taking place at full of flavor, LOCATION: Area of Chuncheon Puppet UNESCO-recognized sites. Korean Theater TRANSPORTATION: peppers are a INTRODUCTION: Bus particularly Chuncheon Puppet Festival first began „ To Gudeurae Plaza(Buyeo-gun) popular in 1989 as a local event and has now From Buyeo Bus Terminal, take a taxi to DATE: Aug. 15 - Aug. 24 agricultural developed into the largest puppet festival Gudeurae Plaza (霡麑ꅍ集녚, 5-10min). LOCATION: Culture Tank product. This in Korea that attracts performers and „ To Geumgang Singwan Park (Gongju- INTRODUCTION: is a fun festival visitors from all over the world. Apart si) Seoul Fringe Festival, the most where visitors from stage performances, diverse art Take an intercity bus to Gongju Intercity representative independent arts can taste or buy Korean peppers and experience programs are prepared to Bus Terminal. festival of Korea, is held annually to have a chance to talk with farmers. entertain both children and adults alike. Geumgang Singwan Park is located 500m support indie culture by introducing TRANSPORTATION: TRANSPORTATION: from the bus terminal. various genres of artists and artworks. Bus Subway HOMEPAGE: www.baekje.org (Korean, Festival-goers can meet many works From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an „ Sangbong Station (Seoul Subway Line English, Japanese, Chinese) of operations, and through the various intercity bus to Goesan Terminal. 7 or Jungang Line or Gyeonchun Line) → methods of attempt and communication From Goesan Terminal, take a taxi to Chuncheon Station, Exit 1. NOTE: Festival dates and info subject to channels used, explore the charm of Sports Complex. (Jonghap Undongjang) „ ITX train: Yongsan Station → change. dances, plays, music and more at the (5min) Chucheon Station, Cheongnyangni Station COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM festival venues throughout the city. HOMEPAGE: www.goesan.go.kr (Korean → Chuncheon Station, Exit 1. ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS TRANSPORTATION: only) From Chuncheon Station Exit 1, take a RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr

+81 (3) 5441-9800 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019

EDC Korea 2019 MAMAMOO Soran Seoul, Aug. 31 & Sep. 1, 2 p.m., Daegu, Jul. 27 & 28, 6:19 p.m., Seoul, Aug. 24, 6 p.m., Aug. 25, Gwacheon Seoul Land, 125,000 Daegu EXCO, 110,000 won. 5 p.m., Seoul Nodeul Island Live Concerts won (Early Owl GA, 2-Day Pass), House, 77,000 won. 180,000 won (Early Owl VIP, Thom Yorke Music Festivals Jeonju Ultimate Music Festival 2-Day Pass). Seoul, Jul. 28, 7 p.m., Olympic The Jeonju, Aug. 2, 3 & 4, Jeonju Park Olympic Hall, 99,000- tembe Chainsmokers Stadium, 62,000 won (2-day Pass), ep r Poseidon(4SEIDON) Water Music Someday Festival 2019 110,000-132,000 won. S Seoul, Sep. 6, 8 77,000 won (3-day Pass). Festival Seoul, Aug. 31 & Sep. 1, Nanji p.m., Olympic Busan, Jul. 27, 1 p.m., Busan Asiad Han River Park, 88,000 won Lee Hi Park KSPO Dome, Incheon Pentaport Rock Auxiliary Ground, 55,000 won. (1-day Entrance Ticket), 109,000 Seoul, Aug. 9, 8 p.m., Lotte 9 77,000-99,000 Festival 2019 won (2-day Entrance Ticket). Concert Hall, 33,000-55,000- won. Incheon, Aug. 9, 2 p.m., Aug. 10 Jisan Rock Festival 2019 77,000-99,000 won. & 11, 11 a.m., Songdo Moonlight Gyeonggi-do, Jul. 26, 27 & 28, Jisan 2019 Let’s Rock Festival Jess Glynne Festival Park, 120,000 won (3-day Resort, 182,000 won (Early Bird Vol.13 NELL Seoul, Sep. 7, 7 p.m., Blue Square Pass - Ealry bird Ticket). Ticket, 3-Day pass). Seoul, Sep. 21 & 22, Nanji Han Seoul, Aug. 9, 16, 23, 30, 8 p.m., IMarket Hall, 90,000 won. River Park, 109,000 won (2-day Aug. 10, 11, 15, 17, 24, 25, 31 & Waterbomb Incheon 2019 Busan Mid-Summer Festival Love & Peace Ticket). Sep. 1, 7 p.m., Hong-dae Lezhin Ken Kamikita Incheon, Aug. 10, Paradise Busan, Jul. 27 & 28, 3 p.m., Comics V-HALL, 88,000 won. Seoul, Sep. 8, 6 p.m., West Bridge City Culture Park, 77,000 won Songjeong Elementary School Joyolpark Festival Live Hall, 88,000 won. (Entrance Ticket). Open Air Amphitheater, 88,000 won Seoul, Sep. 21 & 22, noon, Car, the garden (1-day Ticket), 128,000 won (2-day Olympic Park, 50,000 won (1-day Seoul, Aug. 10, 7 p.m., Lotte Chucho Valdes Waterbomb Daegu 2019 Ticket). Entrance Ticket), 80,000 won (2- Concert Hall, 33,000-55,000- Seoul, Sep. 17, 8 p.m., LG Arts Daegu, Aug. 17, Daegu Stadium, day Entrance Ticket). 77,000-88,000 won. Center, 40,000-60,000-80,000- 77,000 won (Entrance Ticket). M2 X Genie Music Awards 100,000 won. Seoul, Aug. 1, 7 p.m., Olympic Park KB Rapbeat Festival 2019 Wheesung 2019 K-World Festa KSPO Dome, 8,000 won. Seoul, Sep. 28, Gwacheon Seoul Seoul, Aug. 11, 6 p.m., Lotte Hans Zimmer Seoul, Aug. 21, 8 p.m., Olympic Land, 69,900-82,900 won. Concert Hall, 33,000-55,000- Seoul, Sep. 28, 7 p.m., Olympic Park SK Olympic Handball Night SUM Festival 77,000-99,000 won. Park KSPO Dome, 110,000- Stadium, 44,000-55,000-66,000 Busan, Aug. 2, 8 p.m., Busan BEXCO Concerts 132,000-165,000-220,000 won. won. 1st Exhibition Hall, 30,000 won. K-Will Seoul, Aug. 21, 23, 28 & 30, .r-cAhug Ha Sung Woon la . 8 p.m., Aug. 24 & 31, 6 p.m., JMu Seoul, Jul. 26, 8 p.m., Jul. 27, Aug. 25 & Sep. 1, 5 p.m., Ewha 6 p.m., Jamsil Womans University Samsung 7-8 Arena, Busan, Hall, 110,000 won. Aug. 3, 6 p.m., Busan BEXCO 1st Exhibition Son Ho-young & Kim Tae-Woo Hall, 110,000 won. Seoul, Aug. 23, 8 p.m., Aug. 24 & 25, 7 p.m., Olympic Park 88 Lake Younha Waterside Stage, 110,000 won. Seoul, Jul. 26 & Aug. 2, 8 p.m., Jul. 27 & Aug. 3, 6 p.m., Jul. 28 Jang Hye-jin & Aug. 4, 5 p.m., Centennial Hall Seoul, Aug. 24, 6 p.m., Jangchung of Dongduk Women’s University, Arena, 99,000-121,000 won. 88,000 won. Kim Bum-soo Eun Ji Won Seoul, Aug. 24, 7 p.m., Seoul, Jul. 27, 6 p.m., Jul. 28, Arts Center, Opera House, 5 p.m., Kyung Hee University 99,000-121,000-143,000 won. Grand Peace Palace, 99,000- 121,000-143,000 won.

For more information, visit Interpark’s website: http://www.globalinterpark.com/main/ categoryList?dispNo=01003&prdTp=002

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD Publication. This newspaper is authorized for publication personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in by the Department of Defense for members of the this publication, including inserts or supplements, does military services overseas. However, the contents not constitute endorsement of those products by the of Stripes Korea are unofficial, and are not to be Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the or services advertised in this publication shall be made U.S. government, including the Department of Defense available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital Stripes Korea may be distributed through official status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any channels and use appropriated funds for distribution other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 15 Stripes Sports Trivia

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he island of Jeju, South 25 Bridal wear 47 48 Korea, has the tallest 26 Look up to Tmountain in the country, 29 Health-spa 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 staffer which measures in at 6,398 feet. 57 58 59 33 Royal crown Speaking of Jeju, it’s a beautiful 34 Rash reaction? 60 61 62 island that attracts people from 35 Hair style 63 64 65 all around the world. If you’re 36 Treaty subject stationed in South Korea, you 37 Phony Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate should visit Jeju. 39 Spreadsheet function DOWN 39 Bit of stage 50 Lysol target 40 "Ben-Hur" studio 1 Oodles scenery 51 1979 Midler film, 41 Drink 2 Sign of trouble 41 Hindmost part with "The" excessively 3 Launch site 43 Have a cow 52 Not made up 42 Big chill of long 4 Sports no-no's 45 Old two-shilling 54 Newspaper ago 5 Hotshot pilot piece feature 44 Ocean voyager 6 Type of drum 48 Carnivorous 55 Give for a bit Hangul of 46 One who's up, 7 Animal dwelling cackler 56 A bit pretentious in baseball 8 Mine 49 Shopping ___ 59 Writer Kesey the week ࠛ 47 Anagram for 9 Deep distress bul (fire) "rail" 10 Esprit de corps 48 Hired hand 11 Like some grins Answers to Previous Crossword: 49 It follows 12 Round sound ACME AVA I L RAFT naturally 13 Wartime THEN DINGO ACER Language Lesson 53 String-quartet comrade TINT DA I LY SAR I member 18 Romance, e.g. ANT I CS LOATH I NG 57 Put on a 22 Paint a picture of ROACH VIOLIN pedestal 24 Fleeting LEADINS DECAY 58 What Ulee was, 26 Monroe's RAN ROL E MASA L A This looks like fun! in a Fonda flick successor ADOPTEE PILSNER 60 Bow coating 27 Mournful song GATHER VIEW DEN 61 Runner's 28 Mother, in Milan SMEAR PINNACE assignment 29 Money hoarder REPEAT VALVE 62 Not worth a ___ 30 WWII predator DIVIDEND DERA I L Jaemiisseo boyeoyo. 63 Latest fashion 31 Power glitch ACES AMUSE ABBA 64 Liveliness 32 Keypad key TONE CACHE FRET 65 Whirling water 38 Functional ANTE ENTER EASE

68'2.8 (GLWHGE\0DUJLH(%XUNH 'LIILFXOW\0HGLXP ,KtdK^K>s͗ ĂĐŚƌŽǁŵƵƐƚĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞ    ŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĞĂĐŚĐŽůƵŵŶŵƵƐƚ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĂŶĚ   ĞĂĐŚƐĞƚŽĨϯďLJϯďŽdžĞƐŵƵƐƚ   ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͘     Answers to Previous Sudoku:                                                                                     &RS\ULJKWE\7KH3X]]OH6\QGLFDWH          16 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION JULY 25 – AUGUST 7, 2019 JULY 2019

• Finding balance in nature • Busan’s world of relaxation

• Military studies ‘hyperfi t’ women

8-PAGE PULLOUT 2 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JULY, 2019

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander Joshua M Lashbrook Chief of Staff Michael Davidson Revenue Director Chris Verigan Engagement Director Marie Woods Publishing and Media Design Director Chris Carlson Publishing and Media Design Manager Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. Korea Area Manager Jinsun Song Operations Manager Kentaro Shimura Production Manager Rie Miyoshi Engagement Manager Denisse Rauda Publishing and Media Design Editor Publishing and Media Design Writers ChiHon Kim Shoji Kudaka Takahiro Takiguchi Layout Designers Ayako Kamio Yukiyo Oda Yuko Okazaki Kayoko Shimoda KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION The Garden of Morning Calm Multimedia Consultants Max Genao Doug Johnson Brian Jones Jason Lee motions can run high on Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi a trip to Korea, ranging The Garden of Morning Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman Efrom excitement and hap- Calm, located in Gapyeong, Graphic Designers piness to anxiety and exhaus- Gyeonggi-do, is just a 50 Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji tion. To recover from this gam- minute-ride out of Seoul. It is Sales Support Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa ut, be sure to schedule plenty considered the best garden in Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro of downtime in your itinerary! Korea, bringing in more than Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Some of the best places to fi nd 1,300,000 visitors a year. The balance and peace of mind are name “Morning Calm” came For feedback and inquiries, at gardens and parks just out- contact [email protected] from Sir Tagore, a poet from side of Seoul. Easily accessible India, who described To place an ad, call DSN 721-7145 via public transportation, you’ll stripeskorea.com/contact feel revived in no time! JULY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 3 Korea’s most beautiful library, Forest of Wisdom

Within Paju Book City, there is an extraordinary library called the “Forest of Wisdom,” where you can take a walk along magnifi cent rows of books for a special experience. The library holds more than 500,000 books that were all donated on bookshelves reaching a height of 8 meters and covering a distance of 3.1 kilometers. The books are grouped by donors instead of following the traditional library classifi cation. Many book lovers come to the Forest of Wis- dom to savor the atmosphere of being surrounded by so many books rather than to actually read here.

Address: 145, Hoedong-gil, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do Directions: Take Bus No. 2200 from Hapjeong Station (Seoul Subway Line 2, 6), Exit 1 and get off at Eunseokgyo Intersection Bus Stop Operating hours: - Forest of Wisdom 1: 10:00-17:00 - Forest of Wisdom 2: 10:00-20:00 - Forest of Wisdom 3: Open 24 hours *Open all year round

Website: www.forestofwisdom.or.kr (Korean only) Korea as “A land of the Morning Calm.” Designed with the concept of Korean style curves and asymmetrical balance, The Garden of Morning Calm consists of various themed gardens, in- cluding the romantic Eden’s Garden, expansive Morning Square, and Korean Garden. One of the most popular spots among tourists is Seohwayeon Pond, a beautiful water garden that featured in the Korean drama “Love in the Moon- light (2016).” Address: 432, Sumogwon-ro, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do The Botanical Garden BCJ (Byeokchoji), a picture-perfect setting COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr

The Botanical Garden BCJ, located in Paju, is perfect for walking with level paths. You can fi nd couples taking wedding photos all year round as the garden is one of the most popular places to take pictures. It has also starred as a fi lm- ing location for many Korean dramas such as “My love from the Star (2013)” and “Descendants of the Sun (2016),” as well as the movie “The Handmaiden (2016),” and various commercials and music videos. Feel free to join in the craze and have your very own photo shoot here to celebrate your time in Korea! Fall in love with Ilsan Lake Park Address: 242, Buheung-ro, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do

Ilsan Lake Park is a large man-made lake, spanning over 900,000 square me- ters. The park offers visitors a chance to relax with more than 100 species of wild fl owers and 200,000 diverse trees. Visitors can also enjoy a stroll around the lake along the 7.5-kilometer-long walking trail or zoom past it riding a bi- cycle on a 4.7-kilometer-long bike path. The park hosts International Horicul- ture Goyang Korea and Goyang Autumn Flower Festival annually. With different fl owers blooming throughout the year, it’s a perfect place for a walk or a picnic.

Address: 595, Hosu-ro, Ilsandong-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do 4 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JULY, 2019

Photos courtesy of Marifat Fayzullaeva T

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Ta dom. visite The Sea Life Art place most believ Tsush trees

Ice Age Y Bu ro Busan Sea Life ca w w Aquarium WK

Wh usan Sea Life Aquarium is ship j mini- Blocated near Heaundae of ch Beach. If you plan to walki each S come here right after you to get get off at the Heaundae going Danu Station (Exit 5), walk toward in the Heaundae Beach and it will in Ta SOUTH overv take around 7 minutes. of the KOREA BY MARIFAT FAYZULLAEVA, KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION You are supposed to spend at least 1 hour in this spot as it offers 250 species and up to 35,000 marine animals to look at (visitors usually spend around 1-2 hours here). The price may seem ex- pensive at 29,000 won per an adult (23,000 won for children) but the ticket can lead you and your family into a world of adventures where you can meet a variety of sea animals. All visitors, espe- cially children, love watching penguins, sea jellies and big sharks which can be viewed through acrylic windows. There may be dif- ferent events such as live shows, feeding fi sh, watching cartoons on the screen and taking a short boat trip. However, you should watch the timetable carefully if you want to participate in any of U BUSAN them. Busan Sea Life Aquarium Hotel the Mark Haeundae The aquarium divides into 3 underground levels with differ- ent sections, each presenting various features of sea life. The Sea life Art section is full of fun where you can take amazing photos wearing black and yellow costumes and feeling as if you are in the another world. The tunnel part is very exciting and it can feel as though you are swimming with fi sh around you and can touch them. Before leaving the aquarium, you will fi nd yourself in the Ice Taejongdae Resort Park Age where the most wonderful photos can be taken. My experience was brilliant, I learned a lot about sea animals and had many ad- ventures along the way. It introduced me to a different view of sea life and gave me an appreciation of their lifestyle. BUSAN JULY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 5

Taejongdae Resort Park Busan

aejongdae Resort Park is one of Tthe most relaxing sea and nature Fascinating kitchen iscovering parks in Busan. aejongdae was named after the 29th king (King Taejong Mu-Yeol) of Silla king- Traveler’s Room : This place was one of the most famous destinations that King Taejong often ed to shoot arrows. Taejongdae Resort is also considered to be the praying e for rain. There are several hidden places on the rocks to explore. One of the mysterious rocks in this resort is called Sinseonbawi Rock where gods were ved to come to relax. There is an observatory deck where you can see Japan’s Feeling like a hima Island on the Sinseonbawi Rock. Forests in Taejongdae Park are rich in , including pine and 200 other variety of trees. beloved home

otel the Mark Haeundae is a twenty-two story ou can get there easily using city Hhotel with 200 rooms. The hotel staff was very Ybuses. As soon as you leave from pleasant, welcoming with bright smiles on their usan Station, you need to cross the faces. They can help you so much, speaking several oad and go right. From there, you languages, which is helpful. It was the friendly service an take buses No. 88 and No. 101 that impressed me so much and encourages me to which depart for Taejongdae and it go there again if I go back to Busan. will take around 30-40 minutes to get

KHUHLIWKHUHLVQRWUDIÀFMDP The Mark Hotel is one of the most comfortable and fancy hotels to stay if you want to enjoy the night view of Busan city. The hotel has a rooftop where you can sit and watch over the city while getting some fresh air. This hotel is really nearby hen you get off the bus at Taejongdae Bus Stop, if you want to take a cruise Haeundae Beach (about a 3 minute walk) and many other tourist spots such as journey (which costs 10,000 won for a 30-40 minute ride), I think getting in a Busan Sea Life Aquarium (a 5 minute walk), Paradise Casino (a 1 minute walk) -bus that stands near the bus stop is very comfortable. This mini-bus is free and BEXCO (a 10 minute walk). Hotel the Mark Haeundae offers special accom- harge if you use the cruise ship. After coming back from the ship journey, modation with a kitchen inside the room where you can cook for yourself freely. ing up the hills to visit the places is very exciting. At this time, you can visit The room has a kitchen with all conveniences to make food, a big TV-set with place and have a close view of the hot spots because you are not allowed various channels, and a fridge where you can fi nd some bottles of water. At one t off the ship when you are looking over at them. If you are already tired of corner of the room, near the window, you can fi nd a seating area. g up after you fi nish your journey on the ship, then it is better to get in the The private bathroom comes with slippers, washing gels, towels and a haird- ubi train which can take you to several temples and an observatory. This trip ryer. Free WI-FI and parking is also available. Furthermore, guests can enjoy a e train costs only 3,000 won for adults. If you try all of these ways of travelling buffet-style breakfast located on the second fl oor at an additional cost. The rooms aejongdae, your trip will be far more enjoyable and relaxing. A breathtaking are spacious enough to share with any of your friends even if you have booked a view of the natural attractions can promise you a good mood from the start single room. If you are visiting with your family for more than 10 days, the most e day. appropriate choice will be the Hotel Mark as the hotel offers you an extra night free if you stay more than 10 days. Daily housekeeping service is provided by gentle staff. You can use climate-controlled heating and air-conditioning when- ever you want which gives you more comfort. Moreover, there is a fi tness centre Sea view from the Taejongdae rocks where you can enjoy doing some sports. There are many delicious and famous eating places, cafes and shopping areas around the hotel.

HOTEL THE MARK HAEUNDAE

Website: Danubi train http://www.hotelthemark.co.kr/ kor/index.do Address: 24, Haeundaehaebyeon-ro 298beon-gil, Haeundae-gu, Busan Price: 69,000 won~ (it can differ ac- cording to the room type and time) Tel: +82)51-501-9440 Check in/out: 3PM / 11AM

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6 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JULY, 2019 Military studies ‘hyperfit’ women who pass grueling courses

BY LOLITA C. BALDOR, ASSOCIATED PRESS

ARMY SOLDIER SYSTEMS CENTER, Mass. — In the near- ly four years since the Pentagon announced it was opening all combat jobs to women , at least 30 have earned the Army Rang- er tab, two have graduated Ma- rine infantry school and three have passed the grueling initial assessment phase for Green Beret training. Their numbers are small, but their completion of some of the military’s most arduous physi- cal and mental courses has raised an intriguing scientific question: Who are these “hy- perfit” women and what makes them so competitive? Army medical researchers hope to uncover answers in a just-launched voluntary study. “We’re really interested in those elite women that are the first to make it through physi- cally demanding training,” said Holly McClung, a nutritional physiologist at the Army Re- search Institute of Environmen- tal Medicine in Massachusetts. “The real point of the study is to characterize this unique co- hort of women that has made it through these traditionally male trainings.” During early debate on the move to open all combat jobs Research scientist Leila Walker, left, is assisted by nutritional physiologist Holly McClung, center, as they demonstrate equipment designed to evaluate fitness levels to women, military leaders in female soldiers, not shown, who have joined elite fighting units. Photo by Steven Senne raised questions about whether women were up to the jobs or if said. “You have to have a cer- putting them on the front lines tain level of athletic ability, but would make units less capable. You have to have a certain level of athletic they take it to an extraordinary The Marine Corps sought an level. These women are tough.” exemption to keep some combat ability, but they take it to an extraordinary McClung said she received jobs closed for precisely that word on July 12 that the final reason, but they were overruled level. These women are tough.” study was approved. She said by then-Defense Secretary Ash “ that if more women graduate Carter. – Mark Esper from any of the military train- Women, however, have in- ing courses, they could be add- creasingly made it through the that’s linked to a nearby com- it through the training so we carefully plan just about every- ed to the study. nine-week Ranger course, and puter. They plan to have the want to get them to at least do thing I do; it bothers me when McClung and Hughes also the numbers of those trying out women use a mask and breath- these observational investiga- my daily routine gets inter- said they hope to be able to for other special operations jobs tions to explore what makes rupted; and my successes are compare the women’s results is slowly inching up. The cours- ing apparatus to calculate each because of my effort and ability. with similar testing on men. es all encompass a number of participant’s vo2 Max score, a them unique.” Mark Esper, President Don- It will be up to the women phases and run from about nine key fitness indicator. The score That breathing test, along ald Trump’s nominee for de- to decide if they want to par- weeks to a year or two for the measures how many millime- with others on their blood, cal- fense secretary, said the study ticipate. But based on feedback most elite commando jobs. ters of oxygen used per kilo- cium and iron levels, as well as will be important to help under- from some of the women, they They involve a wide array of gram of body weight per min- bone density scans and exer- stand fitness and perhaps re- think a number of them will grueling physical fitness tests, ute; in other words, how much cise programs will be used to want to take part in the study. combat water survival, day and oxygen is being used at a per- determine the women’s physi- duce injury rates. He was serv- “I think we’re encouraged night land navigation, long road son’s peak exercise rate. cal fitness. Other written tests ing as Army secretary when that they’ll be willing to partici- marches carrying heavy packs, An average sedentary person and interviews will evaluate this study was first broached. pate,” Hughes said. “They want extended patrols through vari- may have a score of about 30. their mental toughness and “My belief is it’s grit — grit ous climates, and extensive Top athletes — runners and cy- psychological resilience. gets them through this,” he to be counted.” mental, psychological and lead- clists — can score in the 80s. The women will take three ership testing. The plan, at this point, is to psychological exams that are The goal, said McClung, is have the military women come designed to determine their to identify the attributes — to Natick, in groups of two or grit, hardiness and resilience. whether mental, physical or three, and go through a range For example, the military psychological — that help the of tests over three days to iden- version of the resilience test women succeed. By unlocking tify biological and physiological lists statements and asks people those secrets, maybe they can markers that help define them to determine on a scale of one to help other women compete for as hyperfit. Having several test- five if the statement is definitely the same jobs. ed at the same time, McClung or mostly false, “don’t know” or In a small basement office at said, will make it more interest- mostly or definitely true. Some this Army base in Natick, Mas- ing and encourage competition. examples of the statements are: sachusetts, McClung and Julie “This is a unique historical I enjoy most things in life; I of- Hughes, a research physiolo- time,” said Hughes. “There’s ten feel helpless; I like to have gist, are setting up a treadmill this group of women who made a lot of structure in my life; I JULY, 2019 HealthKOREAy Living Guide STRIPES KOREA 7 8 STRIPES KOREA HealthyKOREA Living Guide JULY, 2019