82 83 Southwest Southwest Valldemossa Area Valldemossa Valldemossa Area Valldemossa Bunyola Area Bunyola Bunyola Area Bunyola North of the Mountains Tunnel (toll) Valldemossa p.108 Sa Gubia Valldemossa p.120 North of the Mountains South of the Mountains Ma-10 Bunyola S'estret Fraguel p.94 p.142 Esporles Palmanyola South of the Mountains Pollença & Formentor Pollença Ma-1130 Penyal d'es Grau Es Verger Ma-11 p.84 Es Verger p.88 Ma-1040 Puigpunyent Pollença & Formentor Pollença Galilea Artà Area Galilea Ma-20 Valldemossa Area p.72 Ma-30 Capdella Sa Cantera Artà Area p.80 Palma Calvià Calvià Felanitx Area Felanitx p.74 Sant Agustí Ma-1 Ca's Català Area Felanitx Palmanova p.76 Porto Pi p.366 East Coast SportEast Coast Santa Ponça Santa Ponça Magaluf About 10km p.70 East Coast SportEast Coast Deep Water Soloing Deep Water Paul Phillips eyeing up the final few metres of the steep and pumpy climbing on Talaiot Corcat (6c) - p.87 - at Penyal d'es Grau. The crags in this chapter are on the steep approaches and flanks of the Tramuntana mountains and offer spectacular views and superb climbing. Soloing Deep Water 84 Penyal d'es Grau G Grade Spread - 4 9 4 - Penyal d'es Grau 85 One of the best smaller crags in the area, which although not extensive, has something to Southwest keep most looking for some quality 6s and lower end 7s happy for a few hours. The cliff is located in a remote wooded section of the mountains but is only a matter of seconds from the parking. Southwest Valldemossa Area Valldemossa Approach Also see map p.83 Take the road from Palma scan for map to the town of Esporles. Ma-1120 Continue through the Esporles Area Valldemossa town to a turn on the left Small sign to Bunyola Area Bunyola towards Puigpunyent. 'Posada del Follow this narrow road up Marques' for around 6km and over Ma-1101 the col 'Es Grau - 468m'. To Palma Area Bunyola North of the Mountains Drop down and park anywhere you can on the first hairpin after the col. Es Verger p.88 There is limited space on GPS 39.641145 the bend with a few more 2.531786 North of the Mountains South of the Mountains places possible further Posada del Marques down. The first buttress is almost directly above the bend with the main area being further along. South of the Mountains Pollença & Formentor Pollença Penyal d'es Grau Conditions The main crag faces west Puigpunyent 2km and although fully in the sun in the afternoon, has a number of trees at its base that will give some shade. The crag is up in the mountains so & Formentor Pollença will catch any westerly winds and is exposed to poor weather. Seepage could be a problem Artà Area following prolonged rainfall. Artà Area Above Road The wall almost directly above the bend in the road has RA$1 min three long routes. Felanitx Area Felanitx 20m Approach - Scramble up to a ledge under the face. 1 Voltor Negra ............. 3sΩ 7a+ Area Felanitx Good moves and plenty of them. Low in the grade. East Coast SportEast Coast 2 Aguila Bonelli ............ 1tΩ 7b A shorter route that has a bouldery section. 3 Misteri .............. 3spΩ 7a+ East Coast SportEast Coast An excellent pitch that starts up the fat slippery tufa. Above Deep Water Soloing Deep Water a sustained wall on varied holds gains a shakeout and final Alan James climbing the technical middle overhang. 1 section of Txorrack (5c) - p.87 - on the Main Wall at Penyal d'es Grau. The crag is 2 3 only seconds from the parking and has a great line-up of mid-grade routes that are set on a remote wooded mountain side. Soloing Deep Water 86 Penyal d'es Grau Main Wall Main Wall Penyal d'es Grau 87 Southwest RA$2 min RA$2 min Southwest 12m Valldemossa Area Valldemossa 12m Valldemossa Area Valldemossa Bunyola Area Bunyola Bunyola Area Bunyola North of the Mountains 1 2 3 4 5 North of the Mountains South of the Mountains q w e r RA$2 min South of the Mountains Pollença & Formentor Pollença 12m Main Wall 7 Saltimbanquis ... 2ftsΩ 7b The main section consists of a wall of bulging orange A hard line up the centre with a thin pull at the top. and grey rock giving a series of good short routes that pack a lot in for their length. 8 1ftΩ Approach (map p.84) - Follow the path from the routes Fatima .............. 7a & Formentor Pollença above the road bend along to the wall which quickly An unbalanced line that features a slopey start and a thin finish. appears above you on the left. Artà Area 9 O.A.T ................ 2ftΩ 6b+ Start up a thin vertical wall to a rest and then continue up 1 Mariol.lo ................ 1tΩ 6a steeper ground on better holds. Artà Area A nice little wall of flowstone that gradually increases in difficulty as height is gained. 0 Tall en Verduc ........ 2ftΩ 6c An intense sequence off the deck to easier but still interesting Felanitx Area Felanitx 2 Intricate ................. 1tΩ 6a ground above. More intricate than it looks, especially near the top. The next lines are just to the right, past a couple of trees. 3 Txorrack ................. 1sΩ 5c Area Felanitx Climb the wall on positive holds. Steeper than it appears. q Es Grau .................. 2sΩ 6b+ Photo p.85. Head up the leaning wall via holes and a fin of rock until a East Coast SportEast Coast depressingly hard move allows access to the lower-off. Pumpy. 4 Cafetut .................. 1tΩ 6a+ Thin moves crossing a crack. w Black Block .......... 2stΩ 7a The long wall to the left of tufa. 5 1ptΩ SportEast Coast 5 Aquiles .............. 6b e 3sΩ Deep Water Soloing Deep Water 6 The steep hanging corner/groove. Talaiot Corcat ............ 6c A challenging pitch that takes very steep rock just to the right of 7 8 6 Arran ............... 2stΩ 6c the tufa. Only really uses the tufa for feet. Photo p.82. 9 Climb just right of the leaning arete on some sharp holds. 0 r Steep Corner ......... 1psΩ 6c Climb the corner via a steep entry. Soloing Deep Water.