Southwest Area Area Mountains the of North Mountains the of South Formentor & Pollença Area Artà Area Sport Coast East Soloing Water Deep 83 p.142 Ma-30 Fraguel BunyolaBunyola Tunnel (toll) Tunnel PalmanyolaPalmanyola About 10km About Ma-11 Sa Gubia Sa p.120

Ma-1130 p.366 PalmaPalma Porto Pi Ma-20 ValldemossaValldemossa Ma-1040 p.94 S'estret p.76 p.80 Sant Agustí AgustíSant Sant EsporlesEsporles Ca's Català Ca's p.88 Sa Cantera Es Verger Verger Es Es Es Verger Es Ma-1 p.108 Valldemossa p.74 PalmanovaPalmanova Calvià Puigpunyent MagalufMagaluf Ma-10 p.72 p.70 Galilea CalviàCalvià Santa Ponça Santa GalileaGalilea CapdellaCapdella Penyal d'es Grau p.84 SantaSanta Ponça Ponça

Valldemossa Area Valldemossa

Paul Phillips eyeing up the final few metres of the steep and pumpy and pumpy of the steep metres few up the final Phillips eyeing Paul The d'es Grau. p.87 - at Penyal (6c) - Corcat climbing on of the and flanks approaches on the steep are in this chapter crags and superb climbing. views spectacular and offer mountains Tramuntana 82 Southwest Valldemossa Area Bunyola Area North of the Mountains South of the Mountains Pollença & Formentor Artà Area Felanitx Area East Coast Sport Deep Water Soloing 84 Penyal d'es Grau G Grade Spread - 4 9 4 - Penyal d'es Grau 85

One of the best smaller crags in the area, which although not extensive, has something to Southwest keep most looking for some quality 6s and lower end 7s happy for a few hours. The cliff is located in a remote wooded section of the mountains but is only a matter of seconds from the parking. Southwest

Valldemossa Area Approach Also see map p.83 Take the road from Palma scan for map for scan to the town of . Ma-1120 Continue through the Esporles Area Valldemossa town to a turn on the left Small sign to

Bunyola Area towards Puigpunyent. 'Posada del Follow this narrow road up Marques' for around 6km and over Ma-1101

the col 'Es Grau - 468m'. To Palma Area Bunyola

North of the Mountains North Drop down and park anywhere you can on the first hairpin after the col. Es Verger p.88 There is limited space on GPS 39.641145 the bend with a few more 2.531786 North of the Mountains

South of the Mountains South places possible further Posada del Marques down. The first buttress is almost directly above the bend with the main area being further along.

South of the Mountains

Pollença & Formentor Penyal d'es Grau Conditions The main crag faces west Puigpunyent 2km and although fully in the sun in the afternoon, has a number of trees at its base that will give some shade. The crag is up in the mountains so & Formentor Pollença will catch any westerly winds and is exposed to poor weather. Seepage could be a problem Artà Area Artà following prolonged rainfall. Artà Area Above Road The wall almost directly above the bend in the road has RA$1 min three long routes. Felanitx Area 20m Approach - Scramble up to a ledge under the face.

1 Voltor Negra...... 3sΩ 7a+ Area Felanitx Good moves and plenty of them. Low in the grade.

East Coast Sport 2 Aguila Bonelli...... 1tΩ 7b A shorter route that has a bouldery section.

3 Misteri...... 3spΩ 7a+ East Coast SportEast Coast An excellent pitch that starts up the fat slippery tufa. Above

Deep WaterSoloing a sustained wall on varied holds gains a shakeout and final Alan James climbing the technical middle overhang. 1 section of Txorrack (5c) - p.87 - on the Main Wall at Penyal d'es Grau. The crag is 2 3 only seconds from the parking and has a great line-up of mid-grade routes that are set on a remote wooded mountain side. Soloing Deep Water

Southwest Area Valldemossa Area Bunyola Mountains the of North Mountains the of South Formentor & Pollença Area Artà Area Felanitx Sport Coast East Soloing Water Deep 87 7b 7a 6b+ 6c 6b+ 7a 6c 6c rr sΩ sΩ 2 stΩ 3 2 1ftΩ 2ftΩ 2ftΩ 1psΩ 2ftsΩ Penyal d'es Grau d'es Penyal ...... Main Wall .A .T...... Saltimbanquis Fatima O en Verduc Tall Es Grau...... Black Block Corcat Talaiot ...... Steep Corner 12m 77 A hard line up the centre with a thin pull at the top. 88 finish. An unbalanced line that features a slopey start and a thin 99 Start up a thin vertical wall to a rest and then continue up steeper ground on better holds. 00 An intense sequence off the deck to easier but still interesting ground above. The next lines are just to the right, past a couple of trees. qq a Head up the leaning wall via holes and a fin of rock until Pumpy. depressingly hard move allows access to the lower-off. ww The long wall to the left of tufa. ee A challenging pitch that takes very steep rock just to the right of the tufa. Only really uses the tufa for feet. Photo p.82. rr Climb the corner via a steep entry. 6a 6a 5c 6a+ 6b 6c ee sΩ stΩ 1 1tΩ 1tΩ 1tΩ 2 1ptΩ Follow the path from the routes the routes the path from Follow

ww Main Wall ...... lo ...... qq 2 min ...... Txorrack ...... Cafetut ...... Aquiles Arran ...... Intricate Mariol RA$ The main section consists of a wall of bulging orange orange of bulging The main section consists of a wall giving a series of good short that rock routes and grey their length. a lot in for pack p.84) - (map Approach above the road bend along to the wall which quickly which quickly the wall bend along to the road above on the left. you above appears Climb just right of the leaning arete on some sharp holds. More intricate than it looks, especially near the top. 33 Climb the wall on positive holds. Steeper than it appears. Photo p.85. 44 Thin moves crossing a crack. 55 The steep hanging corner/groove. 66 A nice little wall of flowstone that gradually increases in difficulty A nice little wall of flowstone that gradually increases in as height is gained. 22 11 55 00 44 99 33 22 12m 88 Main Wall 12m 77 66

55

11 2 min Grau d'es Penyal 2 min

RA$ RA$ 86 Southwest Valldemossa Area Bunyola Area North of the Mountains South of the Mountains Pollença & Formentor Artà Area Felanitx Area East Coast Sport Deep Water Soloing