OFFICIAL GUIDE ENG. VERSION The Historic Carnival of Ivrea

Understanding Carnival how to enjoy Carnival / pg. 4 ———— Characters / pg. 14 ——— Carnival days from Epiphany to Ash Wednesday / pg. 30 ——— The Battle of the oranges from its origins to today’s main protagonists / pg. 60 ——— The history of Carnival from the myth to today / pg. 93 ——— Eating and drinking at Carnival from the bean feasts, through polenta with stockfish, to mulled wine / pg. 129 ——— When will Carnival take place? / pg. 153 ——— Carnival locations / pg. 157

The Carnival of Ivrea is the traditions passed on orally most ancient Historical Carnival until 1808, when the first in Italy. Its key rituals - the transcription of the Carnival Zappata and the burning of the ceremony was recorded in Scarli made by the Abbà until official documents known as the late 1700s - are Medieval “I Libri dei Processi Verbali” — The Historic Carnival of Ivrea

OFFICIAL GUIDE ENG. VERSION Storico Carnevale diIvrea Fondazione dello Copyright: Alessandro Calabrese (Kalla) Editorial design: Matteo Cardamone Creative director: Storico Carnevale diIvrea Fondazione dello Project, texts and creation: Characters ———— how toenjoy Carnival Understanding Carnival Wednesday Days Carnival protagonists / ————from itsoriginstotoday’s main OrangesThe Battle ofthe / PG. from Epiphany toAsh 1 4 / PG. PG.

30 60 Massimo Sardo Luca Cazzaniga, LuisaRomussi, Alessio Avetta (Punto Photo) Storico Carnevale diIvrea Archivio Fondazione dello Photographs: Raimondo Mazzola Antique images: Bolognino Editore Printed by: / PG.

4 with stockfish,tomulledwine/ Eating &DrinkingatCarnival ————from themythtotoday/ ofCarnival The History Locations Carnival place? take When willCarnival from beanfeasts,through polenta / / PG. PG. 153 157 INDEX PG. PG. 129 93

PRINTED IN NOVEMBER 2018 − Understanding Carnival ———— how to enjoy Carnival / PG. 4

Ivrea’s Carnival is the most ancient Historical Carnival in Italy.

The Zappata (Digging) and the torching of the Scarli (Bonfires made of a pole covered with heather and juniper) are medieval traditions passed on orally until 1808, the year in which the first transcription of a Carnival ceremony was documented in I Libri dei Processi Verbali (The Record Books).

CHAPTER 1 UNDERSTANDING CARNIVAL 7 — Ivrea’s Carnival is a unique unique a is Carnival — Ivrea’s every its history, Throughout the for famous is it Although event where history and myth are are myth and history where event a great to life giving intertwined, full of celebration community values. traditional and symbolism to something added has period the of people the that Carnival the represented in that or believed time tapestry an intricate Thus, them. has evolved which weaves together and characters rituals, traditional Middle late the from ceremonies events 1858 modern with until Ages in recent added personalities and years. takes that Oranges the of Battle town of squares main in the place facet every Tuesday, to Sunday from by governed is Carnival Ivrea’s of its maintains that protocol a strict tradition. UNDERSTANDING CARNIVAL 9 berretto (like the ‘Liberty Cap’ from from Cap’ ‘Liberty the (like frigio from Carnival Thursday until until Thursday Carnival from the Carnival, of end the the French Revolution), a red hat hat a red Revolution), French the represents that a sock like shaped for support symbolic wearer’s the aspiration their and revolt popular to freedom. , ,

jus Violetta Generale Una Volta Vezzosa Mugnaia imposed on young young on imposed (Once Upon an Upon (Once — The true— The of protagonist Upon the orders of the the of orders the Upon The spirit of the Historical Historical the of spirit The

Carnival is the the is Carnival all citizens and tourists must wear, wear, must tourists and all citizens Anticamente primae noctis brides by the Baron. The famous famous the Baron. by brides The re- the is Oranges the of Battle rebellion. popular this of enactment Ancient Time). Ivrea’s Carnival is is Carnival Ivrea’s Time). Ancient uprising the of re-enactment the Marquis the against people the of the oppressed who of Monferrato that says myth The town. Carnival of Ivrea has been been has Ivrea of Carnival 1858 through since down passed Hymn, Carnival the (Miller’s Daughter). She is the the is She Daughter). (Miller’s the been has and freedom of symbol her since festivities the of heroine in 1858. appearance first the Miller’s Daughter, freed the the freed Daughter, Miller’s the a heroic with tyrant the from town the against rebellion of gesture UNDERSTANDING CARNIVAL UNDERSTANDING 8 10 UNDERSTANDING CARNIVAL Storico Carnevale di Ivrea di Carnevale Storico described the in history and the popular traditions 02999/894 of prot.). Respect for Ministers of 27.09.1956 (sheet No. the Presidency of the Council of communication the of stated in of international importance’, as been recognized as ‘Italian an event renowned celebration. Carnival internationally- an are what makes of the Ivrea’s of the Historical Carnival of Ivrea) — The Carnival of Ivrea has Cerimoniale dello dello Cerimoniale (Protocol (Protocol

11 UNDERSTANDING CARNIVAL UNDERSTANDING 12 13 14 CHARACTERS Characters / PG. 1 4 CHAPTER 2 protagonists at key moments of the Carnival. momentsofthe protagonists atkey whobecomethe periods historical various include many distinctive charactersfrom (Historical Procession) ofIvrea’s Carnival Storico Corteo The dramatispersonaeofthe

15 CHARACTERS 16 CHARACTERS Carnival: the heroine and the symboloffreedom. heroine andthe the Carnival: / Historical characterofthe The mostimportant on historical facts. At that time, facts. At that on historical legend, like alllegends, isbased Middle Set Ages, inthe this be builtonitsruins. wouldswore ever nothing that people andthe seized andburnt The stronghold immediately was signalfor rebellion. the This was battlements. entire populationfrom the head anddisplayed ittothe tyrant’s the cutoff clothes, out adagger from underher demands. She suddenlypulled never submittotheMarquis’s husband Toniotto that young girl sworethe toher ofherwedding, evening on the castle While goinguptothe Violetta! beautifulyoung bride, the However, hecouldnot tyrannize firstnightofmarriage). on their them tosleepwith right (the primae noctisonyoung brides treatment, butalsoimposed jus taxes andill his peoplewith a tyrantwhonot onlyoppressed Marquis diBiandrate Raineri was feudal tyrant. revolt againsta people intheir symbol offreedom seized by the heroine whobecamethe the Mugnaia (Miller’s Daughter), isthe Historical Carnival in the character The mostimportant Mugnaia (Miller’s Daughter) she would and the berretto frigio (Liberty (Liberty frigio berretto and the because sherepresents purity The Mugnaia wears awhitedress chocolates andflowers. crowd sweets, the with showering her Golden Carriage, centrethen aboard, firston foot, town the procession through Storico,Corteo s he leadsthe charactersofthe other and the (Guards) Scorta (General), the Accompanied Generale by the Eporediese are concerned. forever, atleastasfarthe Mugnaia remain Mugnaia honour ofbeingselectedas general. Those whohave the andofthe Carnival Town in The Mugnaia soulof isthe balcony ofthe the Town Hall. citizenspresented from tothe Saturday whensheis evening identity iskept secret until ofIvrea. young brides the Her has beenselectedfrom among 1858. Mugnaia the Since then introducedThis characterwas in town. whole whofreedVioletta the beautiful image ofthe is the passed down over centuries, the rebellion, ofthe lasting memory hightaxes onflour,the the but Ivrea’s causedby was uprising were many mills.Perhaps water Dora Balteaalong the there river

17 CHARACTERS 18 CHARACTERS to defendit’. whole ofIvrea wouldrisefiercely this strong andkindsymbol:the shows disrespect, even asajoke,to wrote: ‘Woehistorian, towhoever Angelo Pietra, aCarnival (Madam). Miller’s Daughter) orSignora Vezzosa Mugnaia (Charming around callsher town everyone hernameis Although Violetta, woman. young as akindandgraceful her because traditiondescribes Mugnaia is Vezzosa (Charming), the defines that The epithet bride. lady because a was Violetta victory. She mustbeamarried asasignof her Golden Carriage rebellion. Sheof the paradesin heroine Cap) becausesheisthe its celebrations. Eporedieseancient times,ofthe peopleand town centre.the It symbolof isamythical Mugnaiawhich the stillparadestoday through 1858, on carriage triumphal introducing the published inLaDora Baltea of newspaper we haveCarnival includedanannouncement, Mugnaiaintroduction ofthe intoIvrea’s To ofthe importance illustratethe

19 CHARACTERS Extract from “La Dora Baltea” no. 7 (1858) The coats of arms of the most important towns of the pro- vince, displayed on the outer body of the carriage, represent CARNIVAL OF IVREA the unity of all the people of Canavese against their common Year 1858 tyrant. We are therefore extending our invitation to delega- tions from all the towns to join us in the celebration. he Carnival Society, charged with producing the This was the Society’s project which its Commission has T most beautiful and splendid spectacle possible, an- brought to fruition. nounced that, notwithstanding the equipment and decorations at its disposition, it was unable to fulfil its duty The Golden Carriage will proceed through every street and to demonstrate that, for Ivrea, Carnival is not a vulgar enter- square of Ivrea in the last three days of 1858 Carnival and tainment, but the celebration of a sublime victory. will be stored by the Society for future Carnivals. It will lead The Society, convinced that the past can provide a model to the other carriages as an element of novelty to embellish the

be emulated in the future, considered that an ancient victory procession. CHARACTERS could be a stimulus for future triumphs. From this seed grew The Society and its Commission has completed this task the project of building a magnificent carriage, with golden with fervent zeal because they firmly believe that, as a result, carvings, red carpets and velvet tapestries to represent the joy and in spite of changing times and new festivals in our pro- CHARACTERS and thrill of a victory of the people over their oppressor. vince, the Carnival of Ivrea has gained new strength both now It is the Carriage of Liberty that, preceded by heralds and and for the future. trumpeters and escorted by knights and squires, will be para- All other Carnivals are pure entertainment, ours is an Ideal. ded through the town that gained its freedom thanks to the Entertainment changes and sometimes disappears leaving no blood spilt by its citizens. trace, but Ideals live on.

The popular spirit from whence victory arose is symbolised The Ideal of people’s freedom lasts longer than all other Ideals. by a woman (baker’s or miller’s daughter) seated upon a tamed lion, which represents the feudal tyranny quashed by the true power, the will and the strength of the populace. — Avv. Viola, The flag waving in front of the woman represents the unity Chair of the Commissione. of the province; it also expresses the hope for a united Italy in the not too distant future.

20 21 22 CHARACTERS Army) and he had the power and hehadthe to Army) Napoleonic(General ofthe dell’esercito Napoleonico” “Generale ofthe uniform the Generale received titleand the the The traditionsays that much respected citizens. by the choseamanwhowas They celebration. order andleadthe a mantoguaranteepublic elected big celebrationandthey ward into onesingle Carnivals decidedtounifythe authorities Prefectthe town andother celebrations, progress ofthe In 1808, safe to guaranteethe events. these of’securityup asort for service‘ set they about publicorder that were soconcerned authorities occupation, civilandmilitary early 1800s, Napoleon’s during the violent, bloodyfighting. In ledto often that strong rivalry resultedward, in butthis celebrated separatelyinevery invasion, Ivrea’s was Carnival Prior Napoleonic tothe Generale (General) Carnival. order throughout oversee public to authority the is invested with character, buthe role ofanhistorical doesn’t play the Generale / The dei Poteri (Handing over the Mayor,the Passaggio the during proper),first day ofCarnival before Ash Wednesday andthe On Carnival Thursday (Thursday previous year’sfrom the general. receives feluca andsabre the 6 January eachyear whenhe The Generale officeon takes sabre atalltimes. his shoulder pads.He carries goldenedges, buttonsand with white trousers andablackjacket red band,boots, whitegloves, awhiteand feathers), ostrich white with pointed hatadorned He feluca (two- wears the Carnival. throughout tooversee publicorderauthority but heisinvested the with character,role ofanhistorical The Generale doesnot play the hisduties. with tohelphim of theGeneral Staff) dello Stato Maggiore (Officers Ufficiali select for himselfthe stripes. redwear bluetrousers with others Bianche), whileallthe trousers (alsoknown asBraje recognizable white by their higher ranked officersare colours are red andblue. The The Stato Maggiore’s uniform Vivandiere(Female Victuallers). Campo (Aides-de-Camp) and officers heappointsAiutantidi Stato Maggiore andfrom these Ufficialiassisted by dello the He events. to allsupporting is character, andheisalsoinvited main whenheisnoteven the ofCarnival, events all the The Generale hastoattend Thursday.Carnival from Cap),starting (Liberty frigio berretto towear the everyone town. The Generale orders ofthe ruler (symbolically) the Generale willbe the Carnival wholeof the During Mayor’s red andwhitesash. Generale, givinghimthe the hands over hiscivilpowers to Powers) ceremony, symbolically shoulders andknee-highboots. wear large They capesaround the skirts. bythemselves wearing differentiate Maggiore, they Stato are ofthe part they though are red andblueand,even XXcentury.the Their dresses beginningof characters atthe were introduced asCarnival for eachCampaign andthey troops. There are four Vivandiere battle andprepared mealsfor the husbandsafter attended totheir along soldiers’ wives who accustomedtobring was army Napoleonic Napoleon’s period. characters inspired by the The Vivandiere are also case ofneed. in Storico service andare attheir Corteo the dutiesduring their maincharactersperform help the (Stato Maggiore’s Officer). They and Addetto alloStato Maggiore Mugnaia (Mugnaia’s Officer) (General’s Officer), Addetto alla di Campo: Addetto alGenerale The Generale Aiutanti hasthree

23 CHARACTERS

26 CHARACTERS Carnival’s events / Reporter ofthe his three-cornered hat,white his three-cornered under aponytail wig, with a blackvelvet suit,whitepleated record officialoccasion. In every dello Stato Maggiore, inorder to Generalethe Ufficiali andthe He isalways present, alongside appointed. Sostituto Gran Cancelliere was So trusted. a by someonethey recorded events to have the used town onhorseback,they and didnot around like toride solicitors were busy usuallyvery in adedicatedbook.Since the ceremony Carnival and every record event detailed ofevery Chancellor), shouldkeep a Granthe Cancelliere (Grand town solicitors,called of the president the decidedthat it was where Carnivals unified, various earlyIn 1800s, the whenthe Cancelliere. SostitutoCarnival Gran isthe ofIvrea’s history character inthe important An extremely (Substitute Grand Chancellor) Sostituto Gran Cancelliere the fifth from 2007 to2017. fifth the from 1994fourth to2007, and from third 1958the to1993, the secondfrom 1908the to1957, from 1808 period the to1908, history. The first volume includes represent soulofCarnival’s the 2018. These sixvolumes together in volume, started whichwas Verbali hasreached itssixth Today Libro deiProcessi the responsibility document. for this hehassole Carnival During protocol, iskept inasafe place. ceremonies according tothe records progress ofthe the Verbali , inwhichhemeticulously Libro deiProcessiThe original Processi Verbali (Record Book). Libro dei himacopyofthe with Gran carrying Cancelliere rides Sostituto white stockings,the kneebreeches overand cuffs, lacefrill with andshirt waistcoat celebrations. Abbà (Priors) organisedthe the whooriginally of five parishes Ivrea -are chosento represent / Eachyear tenchildren -two for eachofthe Salvatore). Sant’Ulderico, San Lorenzo, San Ivrea (San Grato, San Maurizio, of five parishes from eachofthe celebrations,two organised the Abbà whooriginally the children are chosentorepresent Eachyear ten head ofCarnival. Generale becamethe and the tothe parishes Town ofIvrea celebrationfrom the of the management the transferred French Prefect Plancy who were unifiedin the 1808 by Carnivals The ancientparish a loafofbread stuckonapick. celebrations. Their emblemwas organized of young peoplethat head oftheBadia, anassociation 1700s,In the Abbà the was the Abba’ (Priors) Olivetti. in1876parish Camillo was represented Sant’Ulderico’s AbbàsOne that ofthe Tuesdayon Carnival Rione (parish) Scarlo oftheir the fire istoset to Their maintask accompanied by anequerry. onhorseback paraderiding They tyrant. headofthe symbolize the endto orange stuckonthe around asword an with carry flags. parish their always They coloursof the costumes with The children wear Renaissance evening.

27 CHARACTERS 28 CHARACTERS in charge ofadministrationandjustice. / Supreme Head Government ofthe ofthe Town, Podestà elected the Magnifico elected the Credendari the XIV century From beginningofthe the and legislative powers. town andheldalladministrative government ofthe the formed Credendari The expenses. Tesoriere (Treasurer) tomanage keep accountingregisters anda Procuratori to (Attorneys) laws, andreview three to write dei Sapienti (CouncilofExperts) Consiglio Credendari electedthe From number, amongtheir the town. wards various ofthe the (Councillors) comingfrom a maximumof70Credendari (Town Council),madeupof ConsigliodellaCredenzaof the members families electedthe 1400shalf ofthe headsof the From 1300s second the untilthe (Supreme Head ofGovernment) Castellazzo using the ceremonialCastellazzo usingthe as Preda) ofthe ruins from the Podestà dugoutastone(known Governatore andConsiglieri,the the with oath the taking After Monferrato. much-hatedcastleof ofthe ruins building would bebuiltonthe no also hadtoguaranteethat duties. From 1933 Podestà the booktofulfilhis statute the town square,the heswore on office,ataceremonytaking in guarantee hisimpartiality. Before had tobeanout-of-towner to He inoffice was for one year and of administrationandjustice. della Credenza incharge andwas Ivrea. He Consiglio chaired the Government ofthe Town of Podestà, Supreme Head ofthe events alongside the Podestà. alongsidethe events the main take in part officially Middle Credendari Ages, the asinthe Carnival, During ofIvrea).Carnival (Foundation Historical ofthe d’Ivreadello Storico Carnevale Fondazione ofthe headquarters Credendari. the Today itisthe 1313, lastseatof the whichwas Credenza)of the builtaround Palazzo dellaCredenza (Palace oftown isthe upper part there Marquis ofMonferrato. In the Dora River whilecursingthe Preda the and threw intothe hammer kept inthe Town Hall,

29 CHARACTERS 30 CARNIVAL DAYS Wednesday Carnival Days from Epiphany toAsh / PG.

30 in which the wholetown part takes in whichthe a show but a livingevent towatch, For Eporediesi, the isnot Carnival characters. roles ofits its symbolsandthe ceremonies,various itsprocedures, sequence ofits the to determine periods from historical several Carnival’s protocol draws intricate CHAPTER 3

31 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 32 CARNIVAL DAYS Epiphany the celebrationanditscharacters the created feel togive to ofmade-uprituals, aparticular group ofCarnival. ancientorigins are ofa the part They to dowith the felucasabre (two-pointed and hat) the are handed over to ceremony swearing-in day place: takes the the — On this The General’s swearing-in ceremony. Carnival.. beginningofanew tocelebratethe them for encouragement hugethen from crowd the surrounds that now oldtown, and stopping every the tional route through the streets of throughflow Ivrea. The players follow a tradi- drums of the rhythm pipes and the sound of the ason; the the openingmarch oftheCarnival. The arrival ofthe Pifferi e Tamburi(Pipes and Drums): Morning — Epiphany beginningofIvrea’s marks the se- Carnival Generale. This ceremony, like hasnothing many others, (6 January) was erected yearwas 1220. around the chapel,which cis ofAssisihimselfsuggested buildingthis Re dei Tre Cappella placeinthe usedtotake that ancient ritual town’sfor the protection. inspiredThis momentwas by an Bishopgives avotive the candletopray tothe Virgin Mary Storicoby hisentourage Corteo andby the andCredendari, gnifico Podestà (Supreme Head Government), escorted ofthe Ma CandleCeremony: the andthe Duomo (Cathedral) the — To at service is the there up, afternoon wrap things in the on Monte Stella. to theCappelladei Tre Re (Chapelofthe Three Kings) Afternoon The Procession oftheCredendari from Piazza Duomo (Chapel of the (Chapel ofthe Three Kings)onMonte Stella. Saint Fran- -

33 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 34 CARNIVAL DAYS to lastSunday before Carnival The Saturday before thethird them through the Carnival the through them giore Gruppo Storico, the Credendari andthe whowillguide Stato andtothe Mag toeachother - way tointroduce them placeon takes Sunday; Abbà that of the presentation it is a Introduction oftheAbbà (Priors). Afternoon — This is a preliminary event prior to the official historical — officialhistorical tothe prior event This isapreliminary 36 CARNIVAL DAYS The third to last Sunday before Carnival Alzata da Tavola(tune) calledAlzata (Risingfrom the Table). present. and Tamburiall those The Pifferi anobada perform liere has to be signed by opening proclamation reads that the Stato Maggiore. Inaugural banquetoftheGenerale andtheBrillante Tamburi (Pipes andDrums). Maggiore followed Stato paradeofthe by the General Staff), of the Alfierepresented tothe dello Stato Maggiore (Standard Bearer flagis carnival Campaign, inwhichthe beginning ofevery (Town Square). Prise duDrapeau ceremony Piazza diCittà celebration hasbeenrecorded the that initduring lecture oneverything hewillgive apublic andafterwards wholeCarnival for the stituto Gran Cancelliere Libro willkeep the deiProcessi Verbali Cancelliere handover, (Grand the Chancellor). After So- the cellor) receives Libro the deiProcessi Verbali Gran from the (Record Book). The Handover oftheLibro deiProcessi Verbali San Giovanni (Piazza Boves) Bellavista beanfeast Kennedy) (Via and pork and fat)at the Fagiolate (Bean Feasts). Morning

— An ancient military ceremony that takes place at the ceremony placeatthe takes that — Anancientmilitary — The — People caneatfagioligrassi sausages with (beanstew — At the end of the banquet, the Sostituto Gran the banquet, end of the — At the Cancel- Sostituto Gran Cancelliere (Substitute Grand Chan- (Officers of the General Staff) and of the Pifferi e andof the General (Officers of Staff) of the parade. of the Generalaplay the end , asongplayed Generale atthe for the Generala inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). witnessessignit. Generale andthe the Processi Verbali (Record Abbà Book) and the parents, , their salutes. The rale e Tamburi crowd Pifferito the whilethe Gene- play andthe following Sunday. Five Therethe town. are two of Abbà five parishes for eachofthe Sant’Ulderico,Maurizio, San Lorenzo andSan Salvatore. young Abbàof the Alfiere sion ledbythe houses (Flagbearer) the to headsoff the town.them to andpresentingfive parishes Theproces- Alzata degliAbbà (Gathering ofthePriors). Afternoon — Under the portico of the Under — ofthe portico the Towne Tamburi Pifferi Hall the The Ancient ceremony representatives — nominatingthe ofthe Abbà are Sunday, presented onthis the five on other the Aiutanti di Campo (Aides-de-Camp) Abbà present the to lastSunday before beginningofLent. the Sostituto Gran CancelliereLibro reads the dei (Priors) of the parishes ofSan Grato,(Priors) parishes ofthe San / So called because it is the third / So calledbecauseitisthe

37 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 38 CARNIVAL DAYS The penultimateSunday before Carnival second Verbali StoricoCorteo , the (Historic Parade) lines upfor the Libro reading ofthe dei Processi the after banquet, end ofthe known as the Lunch inBorghetto. Pontethe Vecchio hug. andembraceinafraternal halfway across della Croazia meet Borghetto) (Governor ofthe San Maurizio (Supreme Bano ConsulofSan andthe Maurizio) and for all. This iswhy, day, tothis ConsoleMaggiore the two Rionionce the peacebetween kindness, managed tobring persuasion and women sides,usingtheir from both cause the Libroanimosity ceased,asthe deiProcessi Verbali be- explains, Dora ledtoanpitchedbattle.However Balteathe that river the opposite banksof situatedon the two Rioni(parishes) these evolution. isanexample ofthis Borghetto peopleofthe andthe Maurizio reconciliation ceremony peopleofRioni diSan the between hasreshaped process itsroles, that meaningsandrituals. The toanevolution thanks centuries but ithaschanged the through Ponteon Vecchio. Rioni diSan Maurizio andthepeopleofBorghetto The reconciliation ceremony between thepeopleof navale, Cuj dij Vigne, San Pietro Martire and Torre Balfredo. Fagiolate (Bean Feasts). Morning — — The reconciliation is celebrated atanofficialbanquet Tradition ofhatred andresentment tells usastory between Ivrea’s — isbasedonancienttraditionsandvalues, Carnival — People can eat Alzata degliAbbà. Pranzo dellaCroazia Borghetto. At in the the fagioli grassi bean feasts of Monte at the - di Generala inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). before Carnival Alzata degliAbbà (Priors ofthefive parishes). Afternoon — Repeat of the ceremonyRepeat third — ofthe heldonthe lastSunday / So called because it is the penultimate / So calledbecauseitisthe Sunday before beginningofLent. the

39 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 40 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Thursday ends with alunchoffered by Fiorana school. ends with primary Alfieriburi andthe visitIvrea’s schools. primary The visit Morning Pifferi e Tamburi,the Pifferi flags, parish the Generalecarrying the , the ficers, oneofwhom is Flagbearer, followedthe Alfieri by pointofthe march The starting kindly” by orange throwers. OrangesBattle of the to avoid being hit “moderately and days ofthe the will beanessentialaccoutrement during the tizens are invited SostitutoGran by the Cancelliere toputon Donning theBerretto Frigio Cap). (Liberty Ordinanzareads the delGenerale (General’s Ordinance). Camp) wear red andblueones. The SostitutoGran Cancelliere AiutantidiCampo (Aides-de- shoulders,whilethe on their the Vivandiere(Officers) and wear (Victuallers) similarbands body. sideofthe andistiedoverwaist left the The Ufficiali shoulder, over isworn right sash that the goesaround his civil powers Generale tothe red andwhite , givinghimthe Piazza diCittà(Town Square). Symbolic handover ofpower in Afternoon — The — The Generale orders— In ofthe the compliance with - ci , the — In the Town Mayor Hall the symbolicallyhandsover his berretto frigio,symbolisingfreedom andfraternity. This Generalee Tam Stato the Maggiore, with Pifferi , the - Corteo StoricoCorteo (Historical Parade) is led by two Of- Generala inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). tion offagioligrassi place. takes tiri). Fagiolata (Bean Feast) in Cuj d’via Palma (via IV Mar- associationJ’Amisorganized by the adPiassa d’la Granaja. Children’s Party inPiazza Ottinetti (Ottinetti Square). Mayor.signed andstamped by the yor. The Ma littlePriors from- the Hall), the eachreceive gift aritual towards the Town Hall Sala where, Dorata inthe (Golden The Visit totheMayor inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). Bishop’sat the e Tamburi Pifferi house)whilethe are playing. tradition toeatpan e salam a ca dël vësco (bread andsalami e Tamburi Bishop. play music to honour the It is a Carnival the recordBishop’s affixingof of the andthe the Pifferi seal, reading the The Bishop gives After eachAbbà gift. aritual Generalece where the Abbà Ufficiali andthe presents the . (Castle Square). The Visit totheBishop inPiazza Castello streets towards castle. the the Sostituto Gran Cancelliere Vivandiere, the Ufficialiand , the two — After the tour of the Generale- tourofthe anddistribu the tasting — After , the traditional kids party atthe — Games andentertainment — The — The Abbà. townThe procession makes the its way through Alfiere Aiutanti diCampo , the ofthe Sostituto Gran Cancelliere record reads is the that Corteo StoricoCorteo march reassembles proceeds andthe Corteo StoricoCorteo isreceived Bishop’s inthe Pala- Stato Maggiore , the

41 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 42 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Thursday the new Oditori new . the recordThe reading ofthe place. takes Generale Mayor andthe present commemorative medalsto Council Chamber of the place takes in the Town Hall. The dutiesordailytasks” commitmentsto“Carnival outstanding in Piazza diCittà(Town Square). Generali delleMilizie etGenti daGuerra delCanavese The swearing-in ceremony oftheOditori etIntendenti — This ceremony toreward citizens whohave made e antutëlmond. as naparlerà anItalia Dla belaIvrea conlesoerosse torr a fandabelcontorn… tute e lemontagne ëlMombaronla Serra, Ël verd delCanavèis, che tutialaconòssoantij dintorn. A l’é d’ecession nabelafesta i l’oma n’ani ‘d pì… a-i’ émacnaròbasola: sì; noi isomatorna Carlevé A l’é torna A l’étorna Carlevé sta bela festa ‘nvece belafesta sta adeuvduré. l’aqua pì, dlaDòraapassaetorna lassoma nench’as perda ‘lCarlevé; Domse dafé,Canavesan, agiro lasità. an alegrìa co’ij pìfer, labandaejëstudent con j’arancéej’abbà‘nt lasfilada, Ël general, lamulinera — by Gian Franco D’Alberto and Ferruccio Veisiand

43 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 44 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Saturday secret, pretends everyone theyalready know whosheis. ofthetown fewarecorner and,even thoughvery inonthe be thisyear’s Mugnaia hasreached fever pitchinevery Mugnaia (Miller’s Daughter). The gossipaboutwhocould Today, everyone’s attentionisfocusedonthe Vezzosa Scorta d’OnoreScorta Generale underthe , entering ’s command. the flagof CisalpinaRepublic) upthe andtakes ters ofthe Cacciatori dellaRepubblica Cisalpina (First Battalion ofHun- d’OnoreScorta the hands over flag of the Città (Town Square). of Honour) oftheMugnaia totheGenerale inPiazza di Recordin the Book. Militari Authorities). (Military The Generale and theStato Maggiore visittheAutorità Morning rale Mugnaia whopins itontothe ’s scarf. traditionalgreen Shovel) onared ribbon. Gene from the This broach- isagift Pich ePalawhere the sheisgiven abroach with (Pick and mayor’sgoes from the the Sala Dorata office to (Golden Hall) the Town Hall balcony. Presentation ofthe Vezzosa Mugnaia from Evening ’s town Mugnaia centre, paradeinthe the the ’s After — Presentation oftheMugnaia’s d’Onore Scorta (Guard — Every visitisrecorded SostitutoGran by the Cancelliere — The Mugnaia putsonhertraditionalwhitedress and Primo Battaglione in Piazza diCittà(Town Square). The arrival oftheprocession orange throwers squares. onfoot intheir waiting town, citizens ofIvrea hailedby the allthe through andthe (student pranksters) and orange-thrower teams, makes its way Abbà and the re of theStato MaggiorePodestà , the hisentourage, the with (Substitute Vivandie Grand Ufficialiandthe - Chancellor),the Vezzosa Mugnaia’s SostitutoGran husband),the Cancelliere Damigelle (Maids ofHonour), Paggi the da Musicale (Town Band), the the Vezzosa Mugnaia. along Lungo Dora (Dora Embankment) tohonourthe Procession Storico oftheCorteo (Historical Parade) of allcitizens. balcony ofthe the Town adulationandapplause Hall tothe Mugnaia proclamation the momentofthe appearson at the stituto Gran Cancelliere nominationdeedand reads outthe FinallyCarnival. the at 9 p.m., civic bell rings, when the Generale her tothe maincharactersofthe other andallthe assigned toher. The Sostituto Gran Cancelliere presents then She Aiutante di Campo (Aide-de-Camp) isintroduced tothe cated squares where they will be throwing the next day. next cated squares willbethrowing the where they allo- intheir teamorganizes parties every evening — In the throughout thetown. Orange throwers’ insquares parties Carnival Hymnthe . — The — — GeneraleThe Mugnaia ofthe arm the takes andjoins Pifferi e Tamburi StoricoCorteo Pifferi the comprising: Ban , the Mugnaia the dances with Credendari. byThe procession, escorted Alfieri , the Generale strains of to the (Pages), Scorta d’OnoreScorta , the Toniotto (the Goliardi So- -

45 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 46 CARNIVAL DAYS

47 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 48 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Sunday anything where the oldMarquis’s whereanything the towers usedtobe’). Marquis ofMonferrato; we allow willnever anybody tobuild ni Marchionis’ (‘We toshow ourcontempt do this for the aliquodaedificium fieriubi nec permittemus erant turres domi - ming: Castellazzo from stonetaken behindhim,exclai- the the throws bridge, downstream ofthe his backtothe parapet Bean Feast inPiazza Maretta. The Mugnaia andtheGenerale visittheCastellazzo old the Town Storico. Corteo presence Hall, ofthe inthe Castello where Statuteshe swears loyalty in frontto the of kes inPiazza hisway through Via dellaCattedraleandarrives in Piazza Castello(CastleSquare). The oathofloyalty oftheMagnifico Podestà lazzo, San Lorenzo, Via Dora Baltea andSan Bernardo. Fagiolate (Bean feasts). Mattino , the Alfieri dendari, the and the Preda intheDora on Ponte Vecchio. of theCastellazzo withtheceremonial hammer. The Podestà takes astoneforthePreda from theruins offree rations. distribution beans andthe ofthe tasting Castellazzo ritual beanfeastvisit tothe for the The — The The — — People caneatfagioligrassi beanfeasts- ofCastel atthe — Accompanied the by with his entourage together ‘Hoc facimus in spretum olim Marchionis Montisferrati, Mugnaia the with Podestà Credendari hisentourage andthe , with , ma- Generale Mugnaia, the entourage pay andtheir a Generale , the Pifferi e TamburiPifferi , the Stato Maggiore and Podestà , with Cre - Generala inPiazza diCittà (Town Square). Piazza Freguglia). Piazzanal route (Borghetto, del Rondolino, Lungo Dora and route (Piazza exter andPiazza Ottinetti diCittà)andthe follow throwing two carriages internal different routes: the a Quattro (two different kindsofthrowing carriages). The throwers Pariglieges from againstthe the Tiri andfrom the The Battle oftheOranges. over tyrant. the the populace of andflowerssweets the victory symbolising Mugnaia whilethrowing paradesfrom carriage hertriumphal town. ofthe corner celebrationtoevery The the bringing Giro as the presented Abbà by the . The procession, colloquially known fivere- centre, parishes stoppinginthe historic the through Credendariby the onhorseback. The procession advances Podestà the accompanied supplycarriage; inhiscarriage the the a Banda Musicale Mugnaia in ; the herDamigelle riding with the the The Procession from Piazza diCittà(Town Square). Afternoon river.of the the Golden Carriage drawn by by whitehorsesescorted three — Nine Oran Battle- ofthe the teamson foot kickoff flags; parish Alfieri the the with spectacle: — Imagine the Sostituto Gran Cancelliere Abbà andthe onhorseback;the Scorta d’Onore;Scorta Paggi the onhorseback; Toniotto in riding Scorta d’OnoreScorta bank ceremony right witnessthe from the Pifferi e TamburiPifferi Generale ; the Stato the Maggiore with , (tour of the town), is the epitome of Carnival, epitomeofCarnival, town), isthe (tourofthe -

49 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 50 CARNIVAL DAYS Domenica diCarnevale

51 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 52 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Monday and San Grato. Sant’Ulderico, San Lorenzo, San Salvatore Zappate of theScarliRioniSan Maurizio, Morning Pich ePala Trophy. Hall’s roof. winsthe furthest managesWhoever tothrow the canthrow anorange over toseeifthey throwers try Town represent histeam.From farsideofPiazza diCittàthe the rated onceagain. time. Past, present andfuture year toberegene merge every - of Zappata rebirth (Digging):is calledthe itcelebratesthe spot Scarlo where exact willstand. the will bethe This ritual l’uso antic’ (‘Use traditionalmanner’). pickinthe the This a shovel crowd andthe recites ‘As inchorus Pianta ‘lpica apickand with ground the newly-weds strike stool whilethe celliere ceremony onadrum-shaped proclaims the standing the placewhere tothe couplefrom eachRione(parish) married Stato by the buri andescorted Maggiore, leadsarecently — The — At 1p.m. onethrower from eachsquad ischosento Piazza diCittà(Town Square). Pich ePala (Pick andShovel) Trophy in Scarlotake (bonfire) place. will TheSostitutoGran Can- Generalee Tam, preceded Alfieri Pifferi by the , the - sit theorange-thrower teams: March Storico oftheCorteo (Historical Parade) tovi- Afternoon Generala inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). Battle oftheOranges. Pantere, Credendari, Scacchi,Arduini, Picche eMorte.

Tuchini, Mercenari, Diavoli,

53 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 54 CARNIVAL DAYS

55 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 56 CARNIVAL DAYS Carnival Tuesday throwing skills. prizes! The bestteamswinthe appearanceand skills,carriage anddriving horses, harness their are classifiedbasedon: kinds ofthrowing carriages) three sed on:throwing skills,fairplay andappearance. The first of thethrowing carriagesin Piazza diCittà(Town Square). Prize-giving ceremony oftheorange-thrower teamsand March Storico oftheCorteo andBattle oftheOranges. Afternoon tely toashes. Meanwhile Generale the style,salutes , inmilitary the Scarlo isreduced flagontopof compleit raiseduntilthe - Scarlo Abbà isbeinglitbywhile the the andshehasto keep sky tyrant)to the sword liberationfrom the (symbolofthe in herGolden While standing Carriage, the Mugnaia presence ofthe the inPiazza diCittà(Town Square). San in Salvatore onebecause itisburnt mostimportant isthe Scarlo goesupinflames.touch, the TheScarlo oftheRionedi first alightedtorch and,atthe hand gives them holding their Ufficialewhois Scarlo pointthe oncearound. Atwalk the this Statotwo Maggiore. The e Tamburiback, preceded Pifferi by the Generale , the andthe (bonfires ofpolescovered withheatherandjuniper). Salvatore andSan Grato fortheburning oftheScarli of San Maurizio, Sant’Ulderico, San Lorenzo, San StoricoThe Corteo moves towards theRioni(parishes) Evening — three orange-throwerThe first teamsare classifiedba- — The Parigliethree Tiri first andthe aQuattro (two different , carrying lamps,Abbà squares reach the onhorse- , carrying Abbà Rione dismountand from the Mugnaia raises her reads the proclamation signifying the end of Carnival. proclamationreads signifying the the frigio. berretto their kes off The SostitutoGran Cancelliere di Campo. Everyone removes symbolsof power- their andta giore Aiutanti chestsofthe andpinscampaign medalsonthe Closing Proclamation in Town Square. tothe chain andrun Town Hymn. Carnival Hall singingthe o’clock”). The Generale Stato andthe Maggiore ahuman form a giòbia ‘n Arvédze nal greeting bot (“See you, Thursday at1 campaign. Everyone endofevery traditio- the exchanges the e Tamburi days whengenerals Pifferi the usedtopay their at Generale and dismisses the thanks agiòbia‘nbotinOttinetti Square.Arvédze the Carnival. finalmomentsof Cap)for the frigio (Liberty berretto follow the paradeincomplete silencestillwearing the cobblestones. sabres onthe drag their The Eporedian citizens the funeral march while andleadsthe kes bridle hishorseby the Funeral March. Grato lastScarlo where isburnt. the whichitburns. life tothat new The march continuestoSan fire flagdoesnot offend: gives sanctityand ofthe burning the lifeis getting closer and a new is about to begin. This is why year.the spring past: ofthe represents burning This ritual the Scarlo ofthe burning screams crowd more excited the polethe becomesand upthe mes run crowd inhishorse’sthe standing stirrups. fla- The fasterthe — In the Town Generale Hall the Stato inspectsthe Mag- — The funeralmarch endsinPiazza where Ottinetti the — Once all the Pifferi e TamburiPifferi play Ufficiali asadfunereal tuneand the “a rapid becausethe Burn!) (Burn! abrusa!” brusa!.. are burnt, the GeneraleScarli the are burnt, - dismounts, ta is viewed as a good omen for the rest is viewed asagoodomenfor of the Pifferi e TamburiPifferi , recalling

57 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 58 CARNIVAL DAYS the Carnival. the maincharactersof Bishopmora, attendedby andallthe the andcodinPiazza ofpolenta Lamar traditionaltasting the Polenta andcodfishdistribution. Morning — dellaCroazia organizesThe Comitato (from Borghetto) Ash Wednesday -

59 CARNIVAL DAYS CARNIVAL 60 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES CHAPTER 4 protagonists / ————from itsoriginstotoday’s main OrangesThe Battle ofthe PG. 60 throwing carriages. squadson foot onthe oroneofthe nineteams battle by joiningoneofthe aspects. Everyone inthe part cantake cultural andprankish historical, toits festivals thanks international nationaland mostimportant of the of Ivrea’s Carnival. The battleisone for centrepiece freedom andisthe weekend.the It fight symbolisesthe of andpopularevent spectacular Oranges most The Battle ofthe isthe

61 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 62 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES The Battle Middle Ages. the during rich over fagiolateofthe beansleft a few from the old town, agesture of miserablepittance whichmocked the mainstreet ofthe balconiesalongthe ontheir spectators the and carriages the between inprankish skirmishes century streets. beans inthe would throw lord,the they of the peoplewere poorfamilies,but,sincethe contemptuous the lord twiceayear would the givegoes that apot ofbeansto Middle Ages, beanswhere usedinsteadoforanges. The story resembles traditionalancientarmour.padding that In the and whowear helmets horse-drawnwers carriages, from the feudal soldiers,represented- against the thro clothing by the orprotectivethrower helmets teams,fighton foot without people, represented rebellion: nine orange-the that by the a free town. OrangesThe Battle of the is a re-enactment of of establishment tobebuiltagain,andthe castle,never the on arebellion destruction whichresulted off inthe starting Marquis, the castleanddecapitated she climbeduptothe inhisdomain.Soimposed Marquis by brides the onallthe Toniotto jusprimaenoctis ), butdidnot tosubmitthe want soon(to around 1200 goingtoget married becauseshewas Marquis of Monferrato. a rebellion She against him started ler’s Daughter), town tyranny who freed ofthe from the the Between the 1830sBetween the 1860s andthe born: gamewas anew XIX Beans the were timeduring also thrown atCarnival Mugnaia ofVioletta, the story (Mil the - narrates The myth XIXcentury.middle ofthe — The orange-throwing traditiondatesbacktothe in a competitive way, same time respecting the while at the squares gopeacefullytotheir tocelebratefreedombatants also asuperblesson incivicbehaviour. Thousands ofcom- more fiercely) wins. throwsthat oranges fasterand the one bestfighter (and the It where blackeyes). event sporting inevitable isavery few from a fighter(apart ofevery safety wers toguaranteethe followed rules - battle isbasedonunwritten thro by allthe another, recognizing eachothers’ skillsandcourage. The shakecommon to see rivals hands, showing respect to one order toparticipate. have tofollow carriages preciseThe teamsandthe in rules where created togive life towhatIvrea’s istoday. Carnival teamsandorange-throwing various carriages ted toform streets. throwersbetween balconies and throwers from from the the intoaduel,anout-and-outfight act ofkindnessdeveloped asan andwhatstarted ledtoanother girls. One thing to the zur. The ’targets’ girls. young where menfanciedby the the Côteoranges d’A from the were fruit aristocratic anexotic, - time, procession. At Carnival the balconies, aiming at the to throw lupins, flowers confetti, and orangestheir from peoplepassingby. balconiestothe from their The girls used young tothrow bourgeois “innocentbullets”the girls started Ivrea’s is not role-playing only a great Carnival game; it is The battleisamixofpassionandsolidarity. It is quite It World onlyafter was War orange throwers IIthat star oranges gently back tothrowThe young the men started -

63 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 64 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES The Battle around fifty. team’swear tunicsand trousers intheir colours. team has a designated area throwers. for their Their throwers Ivreabehaviour that canbeproud ofandshoulddefend. offairplay. rules unwritten It example ofcivilized isagreat The number of carriages is variable, but there are butthere usually isvariable, The numberofcarriages There are nineorange-thrower teamsonfoot andevery

65 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 66 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES with the ace of spades as their emblem andablackneckerchief. aceofspadesastheir the with This was the first organized orange-throwing team, giving birth firstorganized orange-throwing the This was team,givingbirth San Grato neighbourhood. a with wear ablackuniform They wear a red and green uniform with aredwear neckerchief. with ared uniform andgreen Their Orange throwers onfoot one of the oldest and most fascinating parts oftown. oldest andmostfascinatingparts one ofthe They from Ivrea’s football wear ared club, andblueuniform, they emblem is the crow,emblem isthe symbolofCroatia, becauseinthe the / 1964——— / 1947——— / 1954——— olden days many Croatians lived inIvrea. to whatIvrea’s istoday. Carnival white skull andredwhite skull trousers. The Ace ofSpades

The Tuchini Founded ofyoung by players agroup Their battleground is the Borghetto, isthe Their battleground Founded from offriends by agroup Death Town Square Battleground: Borghetto Battleground: Town Square Battleground:

67 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 68 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES Piazza delRondolino. The team memberswear ablack uniform black) pieces on the chessboard. black) piecesonthe wear ablackandwhite They Orange throwers onfoot in Piazza diCittà(Town Square), moved then firstto Piazza most interesting streets in the oldtownmost interesting centre, streets inthe viaArduino. wear light green trousers and a yellow tunic with a scorpion wear trousers lightgreen andayellow ascorpion tunicwith of throwers of the teamin1964of throwers ofthe white(or –sixteenlike the with yellow stripes like their neckerchief. yellow like their with stripes Their emblem,as castle. Also their neckerchief trousers arecastle. Alsotheir andtheir orange. Ferrando toPiazza Now Ottinetti. andthen throw in they The Scorpionid’Arduino teammembers,known asArduini, checked tunic with anorangechecked tower, tunicwith symbolofIvrea’s the / 1966——— / 1966——— / 1964——— on the back; the neckerchief year. back;the changes every on the their namesuggests, blackpanther. isaroaring their The Black Panthers The Chessmen The Arduini

The teamowes itsnametooneofthe The Black Panthers throwing started Their name comes from the number Their namecomesfrom the Ottinetti piazza Battleground: piazza delRondolinopiazza Battleground: Ottinetti piazza Battleground:

69 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 70 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES yellow trousers andneckerchief. PalazzoThe emblemshows the crossed with an axe (symbol of the Podestà anaxecrossed (symbolofthe with ). Under emblem the with yellowwith bandsandayellow neckerchief. Their symbol Orange throwers onfoot their symbol two scimitars within ayellow within symboltwo 5-pointedstar. scimitars their della Credenza Council) andbelow itaclub(symbolofthe obtain official.obtain yellow wear abluetunicwith stripes, They trousers and a patterned neckerchief.trousers andapatterned The teamchoseas / 1973——— / 1985——— / 1974——— there is the name of the team nameofthe isthe there is a devil with hisfork. with is adevil The Mercenaries The Credendari

They wear aredThey tunicandtrousers The Devils The team had to wait until1989The teamhadtowait to They wear a purple tunic,yellow wear apurple They piazza delRondolinopiazza Battleground: piazza Fregugliapiazza Battleground: delRondolinopiazza Battleground:

71 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 72 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES Throwing Carriages harnessed. sleekhorses,impeccably and richly groomed oftheir aring d’Ivreabeauty ofStorico Carnevale elegantbe- the through horses’ andthe carriages harness. tions onthe decora- quality oranges, ofthe play the whenthrowing the battle,fair the include: courage during throwing carriages an elegant gait. with walk used for ranking the The criteria thehorsesto andtraining the most refined harness finding toanother. from onedriver next, the He isresponsible for comes from secrets handeddown from onegeneration to ver oftwo-in-hand orfour-in-hand His knowledge carriages. throwers. and the ro hasaCavallante (Driver)throwing andaCapocar carriage - andspecialpaddingtocover eyes) torso.ver their their Every to co- sheet or a perspex grille a metal (with helmet a leather The throwing carriages contribute significantly to the significantlyto contribute The throwing carriages The — wear The orange carriages throw fromthrowers the that (Carriage Head) who organizes and manages the carriage Head) who organizes carriage (Carriage andmanages the - Cavallante isapassionatehorsetrainerandskilleddri pariglie (two horses)andtiriaquattro (four horses) alternating in the squares every few minutes. few squares inthe every alternating There are two typesofthrowing carriages,

73 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 74 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

75 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 76 THETHE BATTLEBATTLE OFOF THETHE ORANGESORANGES A unique spectacle! slucent fog. skybecoming adelicate,tran- highinthe housesand rises the pungent skin,enters scentofsquashed oranges the penetrates the fearless warriors: heads of the street and on the on the fear.without Squashed walls, oranges are onthe everywhere: orange throwers commoners;the fight couragement tothe frenzied andunpredictableof this battle,shoutwords ofen- nated, impressive! beauty by the transported The spectators, painting. uncontrolled, uncoordi isfurious, - The popularriot nowhere: itlookslike amixture ofabstractandfigurative Suddenly oforanges appearsasiffromiron astorm grilles. headsprotectedsoldiers have by their with robust helmets orfaceprotectionwear whereas nobodyarmour hislordship’s tyrant’sthe soldiersget ready for battle. The commonpeople pariglie(two typesofthrowing carriages) quadriglie andthe on the people ready riot; Repeated for the fanfares the gather come. Its canbefound inCommediadell’Arte. origins Year 1967 INVITO ALCANAVESE G. M.Musso T an important contribution to the to the contribution an important Town’s in- tourism whichalsomakes spectacle ging andunforgettable Oranges doubtanenga- The Battle ofthe iswithout Oh, worthiest ofancient carnivals! Oh, worthiest are inonebigcelebration:there nowinnersorlosers. gether orange tyrant’s throwers andthe orange throwers alljointo- isIvrea’s that potpourri people’s Asnightfalls,the Carnival. ture, folklore, parades,dances,pipes:the symbols, carrousels, d’Azeglio inCanavese. History, born whowas litera- myths, We are reminded of‘the duelofBarletta’, by Massimo written Carnival. least during peoplealways win,at lords; commonpeopledefeat the the the three,The fight repeats itself four,the end tentimes!Andin remain unnamed. ges. In Ivrea, Unnamed Innominato (the the One) cannever hot beans in huge heaps of squashed oran- pots, along with Toniotto) don’t market, chickens butpiping tothe their take drate or Guglielmo di Monferrato),Renzos and the (called headofDon diBian (known Rodrigo - the asRanieri cuts off Lucia (knownblast. Carnival! as soldiers. Trumpets and bangers roll, pipes shrill sound, drums Abbondios throw oranges balconiesathislordship’s from the no, face the In Ivrea, descendentsofManzoni’s the hero, Renzo Tramagli- novel ofManzoni’s peopletobattlemakes onethink the inspiring leadingand young bride comestomind; seeingthe Salgari exciting asabullfightin Seville. Suddenly apassage from as Caribbean, aspiratesboarding ashipinthe As thrilling I Promessi A wedding Sposi Betrothed). isindanger! (The (thugs) without fear while modern-day Donbravi fear while modern-day without (thugs) in the townVioletta of Ivrea) in the

77 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES ORANGES THE THE OF OF BATTLE BATTLE THE THE 77 78 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

79 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 80 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

81 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 82 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

83 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 84 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

85 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 86 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

87 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 88 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

89 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 90 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES

91 THE BATTLE OF THE ORANGES THE OF BATTLE THE 92 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL citizen ofIvrea.”citizen istheloveport proffered by every intobeacon thatguidescarnival waves wreck ontherocks. The against thecliffsnorwildest even thefiercest canbatter storms “Our islikeashipthatnot carnival symbolism andtraditionalvalues. community celebrationfullof givinglife toagreat intertwined, are andmyth where history Ivrea’s isaunique event Carnival (LaDora Baltea, 16thofFebruary 1860). CHAPTER 5 ————from themythtotoday/ ofCarnival The History PG. 93

93 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 94 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1300 1194 hundred years later. Marquis of Monferrato’s tyranny one more than endofthe the hasbecomemixedmyth, upwith which,inpopular event, re-enactment ofthis Biandrate’s tyranny. The Ivrea’s isa Carnival town castle,freeing from the ofthe struction jusmolitorius. the and jusmaritagii) the noctis (exercised through Eporedianjus primae the the community with heirsofArduino.and the This tyrantoppressed known Savoy asCastellazzo) toopposethe family Castle ofSan Maurizio himinthe (also installing barossa appointed Biandrate togovern Ivrea, two RanieridiBiandrate tyrantswas . Eporedianoppress the people. these The first of revolvingmyths usedto around two tyrantsthat tality andgoodomen.Ittality isCarnival’s lastgift. flames flicker thatScarlo asasignof vi- around Tuesday crackling ineachward, evening, the Scarlo. the On with together willbeburnt that andjuniper,heather toppedby anItalian flag of nature. The Scarlo isalongpolecovered in marked the end of winterand the re-awakening nival. The Scarlo against Biandrate The Popular Revolt The popular uprising in1194The popularuprising de- ledtothe Emperor the Federico XIIcentury In Bar the — of IvreaThe Historic Carnival is based on In 1781, an Ordinance Comune di ofthe — The Scarlo is the oldest ritual ofIvrea’s oldestritual The Scarlo isthe Car In theMiddle Ages, theScarlo celebration - - used in the traditional manner). used inthe Parish inthe witness that pickhas been of...the Parochia d’... l’è piantasealpich al’uso antic»(We and says outloud«Ciamo testimuniansachen’tla Generale hishatoff takes meantimethe In the same place. inthe ground di Campo andhitsthe shovel Aiutante other the takes from the bride Immediately, Scarlois where willstand. the the this di ground: Campo Aiutanti and hits the the same spot. pick from one of the takes The groom Sostitutois leadby Gran the Cancelliere tothe Scarlo regroom will be erected, the while the Generale andheadtowards placewhe- the the of arm year the must take ofthe lastbride the Monday Carnival requires onthe morning, that, was in first documented Zappata 1839. Tradition Scarli, tookplacein1325. holefor the the The ofdigging Zappate ancient ritual (Digging), the ceremony ofthe original the Book) reports that the birth ofthenew.the birth the triumphoffreedom, thedeathofoldand tyrant, thefire down thatburnt the Castellazzo, things: thepopularrevolt, the execution ofthe Tuesday makes itsown Scarlo. ward day every tothis preserved; tradition was wards Generale, underasingle the tion ofthe tradition for eachward. Even unifica- the after and ahanged dummy ontop, animportant was Scarlo, which traditionally featured fireworks za diCittà(Town Square). ofthe The burning Scarlo inPiazIvrea ofthe - burning reported the — The firstLibro dei Processi Verbali (Record The burning of the Scarlo onCarnival ofthe The burning evening symbolizes manydifferentsymbolizes The Zappate 1325

95 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 96 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1600 1500 lord year 1000 around the A.D. ofwhichArduino became led over avast territory Marquisesancient castleof the ofIvrea- whoru also known asCastello diSan the was Maurizio, stellazzo intheXIIandXIIIcenturies.Castellazzo, refers oftheCa tothetwoconsecutive- destructions town. Theceremony ofthe history linked tothe Sundayof Carnival morning inthe it hasbeeninvariably performed Since events. other 1969 with together Carnival, In 1934abeyance. reintroduced itwas intoIvrea’s traditionfell into the XIXcentury end ofthe in 1608. from 1710 period the During untilthe Ordinance ComuneofIvreatime inthe ofthe Podestà,by the first documentedfor was the Castellazzo. ofthe towers ruins onthe and in 1433 building of castles or prohibiting the the Town Council ofIvrea passed laws in 1329 people’styrant andthe liberty, seizure oftheir Prefect Plancy. Badie where unitedinoneceremony by theFrench violent fights. This iswhy in1808theFeste delle ledto ceremonies often the wards during en the the Ceremonies),(Priory whichwere organized by collectively knowncarnival, asFeste delleBadie The Preda intheDora The Abbà The Preda Dora Ceremony inthe istightly The Preda Dora Ceremony inthe defeat— In ofthe commemorationofthe — In ancienttimeseachward haditsown Abbà (Priors) themselves. - betwe The rivalry . , performed , performed ved. Carnival’s traditional musicalrepertoire ispreser tional marches way the andobadetunes.In this tradi- the with wholecelebration of Carnival the “soundtrack”the for Ivrea’s, enlivening Carnival century. e Pifferi Tamburi XVI canbe tracedbacktothe musicaltraditionofthe ofthe documentation the band, but of official year of establishment Europeanmies intheir Campaigns. 1808 isthe ar ledthe bandsthat inspired military by the e Pifferi the is likely that Tamburi traditionwas delle Quattro Torri Four-Towered (the Castle).It e feri Tamburi Castello bandusedtolive inthe hardly fortress left. any was traceofthe and where material ruins soldasconstruction the yed again. socomplete that was The destruction fortress Monferrato destro was - familythe of the wever, town free yoke was assoonthe from the castleseventy-two years later. ofthe ruins the Ho the castle. first sackingof tookplacefrom 1193revolt that to1195 and the other, church onthe and the popular ledtothe town forces of the one hand and the wer on the po- imperial The increasing the enmity between Biandrate, amarquis Duke loyal tothe ofSwabia. di Castellazzo given was to Ranieri rossa, the The only instruments played bandareThe only instruments by the Emanuele— During Filiberto’s reign, aPif- The Marquises ofMonferrato builtafortress on ofFederico rule imperial Barba the During - The bandisresponsible for performing The Pifferi e Tamburi (Pipes andDrums) - - - 1700

97 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 98 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL

99 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 100 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1798 major, Generale the Stato andthe Maggiore , the At a ceremony presencemorning. ofthe inthe Citoyens dela Ville d’Ivrée onCarnival Monday Carnival’. speople used‘to fires erect ofjoy with during lascivious stockofMonferrato’,of the town- the removalwhich incelebrationofthe yoke ofthe townspeople of‘themind the Trees of Triumph, Patriotic ofthe Arms Union) whichwould re- dell’UnioneGlorioso Patriottica Glorious (the Stemmaerected, the abeechtree decoratedwith cipality. was Albero dellaLibertà day the On this in Piedmont), Ivrea becamearepublican muni- luzione Francese inPiemonte (French Revolution liberationmovement followedthe Rivo that - the Piedmontese short-lived Republic),the during Frenchyear ofthe first Republicyear of andthe (The Tree ofFreedom) L’Albero dellaLibertà characters. to honourdifferent Carnival and specificpiecesare(e.g. town played parishes) example, sometunesare linked todifferent areas for event: melody isconnectedtoaparticular nas, 11 melodies.Each and3other monferrine charge), acavalry 5dia- (imitating passo dicarica The complete repertoire 13 comprises marches, 1 e Pifferi by the Tamburi celebrations. the during Monferratotunes from area, the are alsoplayed traditional or Risorgimentosongs.Monferrine, are marches; others basedonNapoleoniclitary Many tunesare inspired by Piedmontese mi- are players.all instruments handmadeby the boxwood), the — On the 13— On the December 1798 seventh (the Piffero (asmalltransverse flutemadeof This event is commemorated by the iscommemoratedbyThis event the ; andthebassdrum drum the military between 1961between and1978. Volpe ofGenerale four part played times the 1947times, between and 1958, whileDante Ciro Merli wore Generale’s the eight uniform Italian Army.the Second the World After War, year designatedGeneral hewas in next very the the role as Generalefulfilled in 1864 and 1865; tan Universal atthe then Exposition in Turin). Capi- celebratedtwice,first in was Carnival Ivrea and 11 doubleeditionof1898 ifwe countthe when most times (from 1898the to 1903), of atotal Carnival, Mugnaia character of the Since the added to was role 17 timesconsecutively from 1841 till1857. Generale, having longest-serving playedthe the ted Generale 12 times.Savino Panietti isIvrea’s de la Doire. Départment of the He nomina - was of the Town ofIvrea) Electoral Council andofthe le dellaCittàd’Ivrea (Imperial Guard ofHonour the Town CouncilandGuardia d’Onore Imperia- 1Marchnated onthe 1808. He amemberof was officialcelebrationof becoming the Ivrea. where carnivals unitedinonebigevent, parish the square. parish In Scarlo 1808 inthe ofthe burning the fireworks,parades, banquets, climaxingwith parties, re with celebratedseparately by eachparish delaDoireDépartment . Until whe- carnivals then, early 1800s,in the Ivrea becameChefLieu du planted as a tribute tofreedom. planted asatribute Citoyens town donateasmalltree tobe to the Savino Pezzatti first Generale , nomi- the was invasion Napoleonic the onthe Army After — Pietro Fumel first , the Mugnaia’s husband, Roberto Tarditi asGenerale hasserved The Generale 1808

101 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 102 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1820 1808 Chief of the Carnival). Chief ofthe Town ofIvrea hasbeennominatedGeneral in Council andImperial Guard ofHonour ofthe Giovanni Antonio’s son,memberofthe Town Imperiale e della Città di Ivrea. (Pezzatto Antonio, membro delConsiglioMunicipale, guardia d’onore Pezzatti Antonio, figliodelfu Giovanni Antonio, in capoperilCarnevale èstatonominatoilsignor firstpagetract from the this: Generalereads like - delaDoire, ex lieu duDépartment whilethe Livre commencél’anwritten 1808. Ivrée, Chef parchment first title pagevolume we find of the the first was nominated. Generale On year the cover, onthe dateinscribed the than 1808, the created bookwas abouttenyears later the that Verbali but many scholars believe is uncertain, Associazione Circolo Associazione round Ufficiali in the Sta- Stato Maggioreactivities ofthe continueallyear celebration. the present during atallevents The Ufficiali Campaign have andthe tobe military isconsidered ofCarnival anactual whole period di Campo, Statocomposition Maggiore ofthe is:Aiutanti traditional commandof a general. The der the un- is modelledonaNapoleonic corps military management TheStato ofCarnival. Maggiore organization and the Generale with help the to formed group of this establishment of the (Officers ofthe General Staff) The Stato Maggiore Processidei Verbali The firstLibro — first Libro dei The date of the Processi — No date oneisquite exact sure aboutthe Ufficiali d’Onore andVivandiere. The (Record Book) in 1899, oldflags where new the replaced with firstLibro dei ted inthe Processi Verbali, when, , but,asdocumen- the first half of the XIX century flag wasalready one of the Carnival Flags usedin mounted onapolecovered inred velvet. This playful practiceofIvrea’s bourgeois youth. today’s Oranges Battle ofthe evolved from this use oforanges as missiles. Manythe that believe in1857 Carnival A picture ofthe shows clearly oranges orsimilarthingswithtoomuchstrength’. outcome oftheCarnival, itisforbiddentothrow val, Generale Panietti ’to favour warned, thegood cely by boys andgirls alike. were beingflungmoresoon they andmore fier admirers, by young but ladiesto gracefully their of flowers).the oranges At first were launched coveredprocession garlands ofcarriages with Gala delle - were the Vetture thrown during (a ges quite uncommoninIvrea fruit –anexotic middleclasses,oran- formainly anevent the documents of this historical military group. military historical documents ofthis researching official Carnival, andpublishingthe re volunteers traditionsof work the topreserve Association). centre whe- This is a permanent to Maggiorethe Officers of (the Stato Maggiore — The flagis 150 cmwideand 160 cmlong, 1854In the - announcementfor Carni formal 1800s,— In the celebrationwas whenthe San Pietro The Parish Flags: The Oranges e Donato - 1830 1830

103 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 104 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1830 1986 flagmade in toreplace the 1959. OrdineGran ofthe dellaMugnaia Cancellieri in Sostituti Generali andthe day donatedby was the frond separatedby quadrifoils. The flag we seeto- astylized field cantonsare eachdecoratedwith side and words S.Salvatore’ the ‘Viva middle with onone dark beige edge andadark beige square inthe in 1933. a The flaghasalightbeige fieldwith sizione Generale Italiana in Turin again andthen replaced firsttimein the Espo- for the 1899 after since the Carnival flag hasbeenin 1836. was It mounted onapolecovered inbrown velvet. This San Salvatore The Parish Flags: right. twotwo cantonsonthe ineachofthe right toleft, whiteflamesgoingfrom horizontal ablue bordure.a red fieldwith There are four march. Carnival The flaghasabigwhitecross on the this day in flag,whichisusedto made anew march until,in1998,absent from the Alfieri the four flags. other the the From 1970s was this flag until 1933 with replaced, whenitwas together taken greater care of it’. was used flag The new a result ofthecarelessness ofhewhoshouldhave Pietro andDonato’s flagwasmissing‘as original EsposizioneGenerale Italianathe in1898, ofIvrea’s Carnival titude for the in participation Cityof ones given by the Turin- asasignofgra — The flagis 135 cmwideand 140 cmlong, ‘Borgo diBando’ reverse. on the The four San Fausto Cavallo. the flag givenOrdine by della Mugnaia and Pier has beenusedsince2012, 1985 replacing the the and created Alfieri by the Yon family andit Castellazzo’ reverse. onthe Today’swas flag re- San‘Viva Maurizio’ ononesideand‘Rionedel ner. inscription middlebearsthe inthe The rim four stylized olive leaves, green onefor eachcor an olive edge green with and a beigetains rim ribbons. The squaremagenta centre con- in the blue blue circlescantons are with decorated with dure and a squaremagenta middle. in the The from the upper right and proceeding clockwise: a upperright from the blue squares. we have, four In corners starting the 1933. The flag hasa red field edged bybeige and ne Generale Italiana in Turin again in and then Esposizio- the in 1899 onemadeafter the with half ofthe1800. It replaced first time was for the This flaghasbeeninthe sincethefirst Carnival mounted onapolecovered dark red with velvet. again in1933. Esposizione Generale Italiana in Turin and then the first timein the onemadeafter 1899 with . Ithalf oftheXIXcentury replaced was for the This flaghasbeeninthe sincethefirst Carnival mounted onapolecovered indark red velvet. — The flagis 130 highand 140 cm wide, bor a magenta The flag has a beige field with — The flagis 140 cm wideand 150 cmlong, The Parish Flags: The Parish Flags: San Maurizio San Grato - - 1830 1830

105 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 106 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL The Parish Flags 106 4. 1. 7. San Bernardo San Grato Santi Pietro eDonato in 1935 introduced dark velvet green pole - 140 x150 cm XIX century the middleof introduced in dark red velvet pole - 130 x140 cm XIX century first halfofthe introduced inthe red velvet pole - 160 x150 cm 2. 8. 5. from 1830 to todayto San Salvatore Torre Balfredo Sant’Ulderico in 1836 introduced brown velvet pole - 135 x140 cm in 1935 introduced velvet pole bordeaux-coloured - 140 x175 cm in 1842 introduced dark velvet green pole - 120 x125 cm 107 9. 6. 3. Sacro Cuore San Lorenzo San Maurizio in 1955 introduced blue velvet pole - 140 x140 cm in 1934 introduced brown velvet pole - 135 x165 cm XIX century the middleof introduced in dark red velvet pole - 140 x150 cm

107 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 108 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1842 the Guidetti family.the was donated flag by yearrecalling whenthe the words Viva Sant’Ulderico 1984 reverse, onthe ononesideandthe parish) patron ofthe the accoutrementsa crosier of Bishop (the Ulderico, a mitre, rhombusivory-coloured a cross with and isan there this within four corners; foils inthe centre square beige is agreen - there quadri with abeige bordure.has agoldenfieldwith the In liana in Turin againin1933. andthen The flag EsposizioneGenerale Ita the - onemadeafter the It replaced firsttimein was for the 1899 with vet. mounted onapolecovered dark vel green - with Sant’Ulderico The Parish Flags: and introduced in2012 1985 to replace the flag. the and was the Alfieri flag remade by Tuchini by apolylobedframe. surrounded The current and Viva San Grato reverse. onthe The shieldis words ononeside the RionedelBorghetto with there ablueborder isabeige field shieldwith the asphere. centre Insmall stickendingwith of the by a swordsupported drum an orange and a with that holdsa flag Scarlo; atricolour on aburning vel, apick,lit torch andtwo chains,allplaced represent Castellazzo; a round shield, the a sho- castleto turreted aburning ablueribbon; with Generale’sof whichare the feluca andsabre tied wordsthe the Librored dei flag under Processi Verbali with — The flagis 120 cmwide and 125 cmlong, This flaghasbeeninthe since1842. Carnival ‘Statuto delCarnevale d’Ivrea’, on top Register). 1821 Gran keeper ofthe asthe Registro (Great Gran Cancelliere Regio Notaio introduced was in According Libro tothe deiProcessi Verbali , the Grancement for the Cancelliere Regio Notaio months laterin months Turin Esposizio- tocelebrate the traditional days inIvrea the during and afew tookplacetwice: sameyear when Carnival the 1869. In 1898 hadtwo Mugnaie Carnival the in and Maddalena Cavatore Allera in 1863 and 1864 Fumel’s wife), Mugnaia was in 1858 and 1859, ever first macchio, the Mugnaia (captain Pietro Giuseppina Fumel Golden Carriage: the Ga- twice toride opportunity ladieshad the three ry Mugnaia canbeplayed onlyonceinalifetime. proclaimed. Regno d’Italialater the (Kingdom ofItaly) was the reflect nationalcolours. Italian Two years of Liberty Italy’sduced during symbol Risorgimentoasthe became real in1858. introThis characterwas - Scarlo.the From character, beingalegendary she toerect Zappata the ward, called to perform the Violetta’s of played lastbride was by part the stillusedbyriage Violetta today. Before 1858, time in1858 Golden Car whilesittingonthe — This character — This However, XIXcentu- secondhalfofthe inthe — The Mugnaia first documentedfor was the Vittoria Pesando Menaldino in1868 and : this is why the colours of her dress is why the : this Il Sostituto Gran Cancelliere According totradition, therole ofthe (Substitute Grand Chancellor) was introducedwas asarepla- The Mugnaia - . 1845 1858

109 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 110 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL

111 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 112 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1898 1878 1858 noforte. by latertranscribed music,whichwas composed the Hymn).Carnival Maestro Lorenzo Olivieri wrote in Ivrea’s Professor Carnival, Ferdinando Bosio a secondMugnaia. Turin). For commissionelected occasion the this di Torinoliana (General Italian Exposition in to Turin EsposizioneGenerale Ita the during - — The twoCarnivals of theCastellazzo) CharitableBean Fest(The del Castellazzo La Fagiolata Benefica The Carnival Hymn ned inAuschwitz’s concentrationcamp in1944. for Ivrea’s- shesadlydiedwhileimpriso Carnival, luomi Foa symboloffreedom beingthe ; after Angiolina Patriarca Gillio. Violette where ne Universale (Universal Exposition). The two — To Mugnaia introduction of the honour the Sad was the fateof1892’sSad the was Mugnaia Perla Fa- was brought was Carnival A summerversion ofthe Maestro AngeloBurbatti for voice andpia- ‘La Canzone delCarnevale d’Ivrea’ (Ivrea’s Emma Cavallo Zucchino and se allmaincharacterswhere missing. Borghetto. the becau- auniqueThis was Carnival Scarli inPiazza diCittà,Piazza Maretta andin mainplayers the whohelpederectthe andburn 1946 war, the after Goliardi the were among took place in that Carnival organization for the Since no real was there scorpion. symbol is the firsttimein for the Carnival the 1925. Their AUC where in1924 formed attended and they of the of the Town from times. medieval represents Supreme the Head Government ofthe perform skirt to distinguish them from the officers. from the todistinguishthem skirt ops inbattle. inspired women tro whoaccompanied by- the the Stato introduced to Maggioresupply the food, with XXcentury.giore beginningofthe atthe were They — The Goliardi (Student Pranksters) ofthe — The Podestà introduced was in1934 to — The Vivandiere Stato ofthe becamepart Mag- the first Preda inthe Dora ceremony. He L’Associazione Universitaria The Vivandiere wear aspecialhat and Canavesani Association oftheCanavese) The Vivandiere (Chief Magistrate) (The University(The Il Podestà 1924 1898 1934

113 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 114 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1935 1934 The Parish Flags: in 1985. hand. his right was introduced flag The current martyrdom palmin Gospels andthe Book ofthe whileholdingthe gridiron tunic displaying the flag we cansee Deacon Lorenzoof the ina red wreath. alaurel cantonisred with fourth Michele, the delineatedby LagoSan parish borders ofthe the evincing two fishfacingeach other with cantonisblue third bundlesofwheat,the three with secondcantonisgreen ading itswings,the words the RionediSanwith Lorenzo. middle and a blue medallion in the extremities flaghasa front ofthe Greek trilobal cross with mounted onapolecovered inbrown velvet. The of the Cistercian Order.of the He is represented from founder andthe parish patron ofthe the rvaux), Bernardo Di Chiaravalle (St Bernard of Clai- bordures.vertical blue,redand green, andwhitesquares alongits borduresIt red horizontal fieldwith hasagreen mounted onapolecovered in dark velvet. green San Bernardo San Lorenzo The Parish Flags: Within the blue medallion on the reverse side bluemedalliononthe the Within spreThe firstcantonis aneagle yellow- with — The flagis 135cm wideand 165 cmlong, The first canton is beige and represents San — The flagis 140 cmwideand 150 cmlong, zier (Mugnaia 1961), Olivetti Lalla de‘Liguori (MugnaiaGalletti 1956), Mimma Galardi Li- rentwas donatedin flag 1985 by Grazia Olivetti ward role as Ivrea’s of the the outpost. The cur middle torepresentre inthe andagoldenkey a bottomred bordu halfhasabluefieldwith - abluebordure;the field with obliquely-striped top half has a red and white the stripe, third the tre: ablueone,yellow one and ared one. In extend towardsthe cen- bottom flames three the represents ward. Fromthat the topandfrom the holdsatower battlements ding red with griffin - abluebordure. astan with centralstripe, In the half hasared field andwhiteobliquely-striped ad wingsholdingIvrea’s bottom the coatofarms; a red bordurefield with spre- with and an eagle the tophalfhasablue firstone, In the stripes. velvet. mounted on a pole covered in bordeaux-coloured rentwas flag remade in 1985. ward’sting the tradition. farming are refleccantons there two- pairsofcorncobs, Church’sposition asthe Doctor. centre In the hand,symbolizinghis holds abookinhisleft top. haloon traditionalshaved headandthe the with monk’s the upwhilewearing waist the scapular, The flag is divided into three equal The flagisdividedinto vertical — The flagis 140 cmwideand 175 cmlong, The last canton is blue with an eagle. aneagle. The lastcantonisbluewith The cur handand He hisright makes ablessingwith Torre Balfredo The Parish Flags - - 1935

115 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 116 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1954 1948 1947 1947 1947 La Morte (Polenta andCodfish) Polenta eMerluzzo Mugnaia.rade for the the pa- to firsttime,givingbirth torches for the Students’(The Torchlit Procession) La Fiaccolata Goliardica as weapons. oranges with feudal soldiers (teamsoncarriages) people ofIvreathe (teamsonfoot) fightagainst Oranges represents thepopularrevolt : the tyrants. medieval from the The Battle ofthe timewhenIvreathe managed tofree herself itsownand abilitytodetermine future, recalling where the Town ofIvrea celebrates itsindependence — isabigcommunitycelebration The Carnival The Battle oftheOranges orange-throwers Asso diPicche 1981). (Mugnaia 1979) and Davide Olivetti (Generale — MugnaiaThe Goliardi the their escort with (Death) (Ace ofSpades) orange-throwers (the Protocol)(the Historical Carnival ofthe ofIvrea , of the of the shopkeepers ofCorsoNigra andPorta Torino. ral activities. the was donated flag by The current parish’s whichsymbolize the of corn, - agricultu arake, afork,see ascythe, aspadeandanear arch third we can whileinthe inhabitants, of the on top, representing activities metalworking the wheel atoothed second arc isananvil there with in blue,symbolizingpeaceandprosperity. In the top, andtwo wingsopenatthe all ven serpents - interwo two symmetrically astickwith contain are four bluearcs. arcs each The firstand fourth Sacred Heart ofJesus. four In cantonsthere the symbolofthe a red and a blackcross, the heart the circlethe centre is diates blue flames. of In - bordure. irra middleisabluecircle In that the mounted onapolecovered indark bluevelvet. recognised events. of Ivrea — — On the 27— On the September 1956, Presidency the ablue sidesithasawhitefieldwith On both — The flag is 140 cmwideand 140 cmlong, The recognition by thePresidency Angelo Pietra Council of Ministers included the in the calendar of the internationally- calendar ofthe in the of theCouncilMinisters (The Protocol(The ofthe Carnival) Cerimoniale created the Il Cerimoniale The Parish Flags Sacro Cuore Carnival 1955 1956 1956

117 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 118 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1966 1966 1964 1964 1961 SOAS have the scorpion as their symbol. SOAS astheir scorpion have the AUC, activities. Like organizes Carnival the the (Prince) and,finally, a Prefetto (Prefect) who de aGran Maestro (Grand Master), aPrincipe Carnival. to jointhe The Order’s officersinclu- Goliardi), secondstudentgroup becomingthe IIIConference Princesna (The ofthe ofItalian e First National Sovereign ofthe Congress Orders) Congresso Nazionale degliOrdini Sovrani (The (Minor Italian Students Primo Order) the during navese and as Ordine Goliardico Minore Italiano Sovrano (Sovereign Order) inIvrea Ca- andthe orange-throwers Scoprioni d’Arduino orange-throwers Pantera Nera orange-throwers Tuchini delBorghetto Scorpionis (SOAS) The Supremus Ordo Aurei renzo Faletto andFranco Quaccia. updated in1988 by Domenico Forchino, Scacchi orange-throwers III Convegno dei Principi dellaGoliardia Italia- — The SOAS gainedrecognition asOrdine (Chessmen) (Black Panthers) (The Arduini)(The (Tuchini)

Lo- goals’. organizations and withthosewhoshare thesame in collaboration with otherexisting andharmony gress, topreserve andimprove future celebrations, of theEporedian tradition, topromote itspro- Association isto‘reaffirm thefundamental values Podestàcelliere andofthe . ofthe The purpose Sostituto Generale, Grand ofthe of the Can- people whohave role played of the Violetta, in the presence of the Generale. presencenival ofthe Thursday inthe delCanaveseGuerra award. Intendenti Generali delleMilizie edelleGenti da Ordine ed the Oditori degli with present them tasks’ dutiesand/orCarnival to everyday been ‘outstanding civiccommitment intheir havese citizens, associations orinstitutionsthat delle Genti daGuerra del Canavese’ — — The investiture year onCar- placeevery takes Intendenti Generali delle Milizie e - order istohonourtho ofthis The purpose This Association brings together all those allthose together This Associationbrings The ‘Ordine degliOditori ed L’Ordine dellaMugnaia (the Order oftheMugnaia) Mercenari orange-throwers orange-throwers Diavoli (Mercenaries) (Devils) , and ​​ 1969 1977 1974 1973

119 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 120 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1985 1985 1984 also known asPiassa d’la Granaja. Carnival inPiazza Ottinetti, Thursday afternoon kids’ganizers of the place takes on that party ofitsfounders. spirit party or are the They initiatives. Carnival sion of the town made during the Middle Ages. the town madeduring sion ofthe town, divi- wards following ofthe historical the are representatives different ofthe dendari: they (the Ban andtheCommitteeofCroatia) Il Bano eilComitatodella Croazia Gli Amis ‘dPiassa d’laGranaja The Credendari Ash Wednesday. and codfishon polenta andtodistribute Carnival Ceremony) secondtolastSunday onthe before dellaRiappacificazione(Reconciliation rimonia Polenta e Merluzzo, Ce- created the to support della Croazia AssociazioneComitato dent ofthe from aCrusade. returning presiThe Bano- isthe atian communityfounded by Croatian Knights smallCro- Borgetto tocommemoratethe of the people.Itof the citizen isgiven toanimportant leader usedtonamethe vic traditionanditwas — the topreserve born This Associationwas The Order provides for support substantial — impersonates group the This historical term — The Bano (Ban) Sla comes from- the Cre

- - to throw anorange over the Town Hall. far sideofPiazza diCittà(Town Square) andtry Square. onthe placethemselves The contestants Monday onCarnival meet at1p.m. in Town skills, totesttheir whowant and allofthose thrown over one shoulder. its unique decorationsandby asecondjacket baldric. The officer’s is uniform recognizable by 1777-1820 period the and a sabre slung from a from rifle revolutionary the with are They armed red andred shirt shoescovered whitespats. with ared jacket andtrousers, band,green hat with Hunters)Infantry from 1799. haveThey a black diFanteria Cacciatori of the Leggera (Light orders. Their attire isinspired uniforms by the the Generale’s under togather the Scorta flag of the the and replaces itwith Battalion flagof the Guards ofHonour. Mugnaia’s CisalpinaRepublic) becamethe of the Repubblica Cisalpina(First Battalion ofHunters 1992 Primodella Cacciatori the Battaglione also known asalaberdieri (halberdiers). From (armourbearers), armigeri to replaceformed the — Nine orange throwers (one for each team), On On — La Scorta d’OnoreLa Scorta dellaMugnaia La Scorta d’OnoreLa Scorta della Mugnaia was group Carnival Saturday Group the handsover Credendari orange-throwers (The Mugnaia’s(The Guard ofHonour) Il Trofeo Pich andPala (Pick andShovel Trophy) 1989 1985 1991

121 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 122 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL

123 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 124 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 1998 1996 were recorded for and preserved posterity. configurations original their to guaranteethat the flags the digitizationofall out carried Alfieri was lostmanythat the years back. flag In 2006 alsorecreated Santhey Pietro andDonato’s town. Incolours of the 1998 the with uniforms new introduction ofthe from the starting the Alfieri, the role of flagsandupgrade of the the importance organizationistoreaffirm of this Alfieri (Flagbearers Association). The maintask selected Eporediese citizens. by specifically-hired professionals orrandomly- wherethe flagswhere created,Alfieri carried andwards. past,before In parishes the the the flagsof historical the march carrying open the much a more consistent image. role givingthis Carnival, activities during decided to reorganize flag-bearing friends the also promotes research, studiesandexhibitions. valorisation of the traditions ofIvrea’s Carnival’. It ‘the development preservation, and conservation, Museum ofIvrea’s Carnival) AssociationoftheHistorical(The Carnevale diIvrea L’Associazione Museo Storico Gli Alfieri In 1998 Associazione created group the the — Encouraged of Generale, agroup by the — createdThis associationwas toguarantee (Flagbearers) The Alfieri The Alfieri in Ivrea’s Carnival. townspeople presence of the of the importance berretto Cap),tounderline the frigio(Liberty 1795-1799, period the red the alongwith from clothing wear traditional revolutionary — ofpeoplewhochooseto This isagroup the town. the squares flag decorations around of the and the use battle,the regarding tothe participation the powers of each team specify the and rights colours and symbols and to their existence, throwing teamsonfoot their toformalize Oranges. requirements the Battle tocompete ofthe inthe meet that record throwing carriages ofallthe (The Register(The ofthe Throwing Carriagesof — Their register records orange- allofthe — This Association’s missionistokeep a dello Storico Carnevale diIvrea L’Associazione delleSquadre I Citoyens dela Ville d’Ivrée the Historical Carnival ofIvrea) L’Albo deiCarridaGetto (Citizens ofthe Town ofIvrea) (The AssociationofOrange (The degli AranceriaPiedi Throwing Teams onFoot) 1998 1999 2000

125 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 126 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL 2002 from the Carnival in2010. Carnival from the orange-throwers, starting position ofallcarriage Its Carnival. the maindutyistoregulate the association in order represented to be better in orange-throwers necessitytocreate felt an the association created in1998. ofcarriage Agroup Throwing Carriages) AssociationofOrange (The Carri daGetto L’Associazione Aranceri — The association emerged from the

127 THE HISTORY OF CARNIVAL OF HISTORY THE 128 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL festive andcollective way, inato eattogether offoodThe distribution among citizens. bonds the strengthening sense ofcommunity, invented tocreate a made ofmany rituals Ivrea’s is Carnival that keep alive. Carnival that forces driving arepart the passionate desire totake andaEnthusiasm celebrations. official the reason, cannot attend who,for whateverthose to Carnival bringing bean feasts, isaway of neighbourhoodlike the with stockfish,tomulledwine/ Eating &DrinkingatCarnival from beanfeasts,through polenta CHAPTER 6 PG. 129

129 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 130 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate of Ivrea. Historic Carnival leadinguptothe events actorsinasequence ofbecome important tyrantsofold,havereminders thus ofthe streets. Beans, legumesandbeansinthe the gesturemiserable philanthropic andthrowing of Ivrea preferred lords’ tofast,refusing the and hunger. butproud people The starving hightaxes andforced tolivethe inpoverty poor,the were oppressed by whootherwise lords by to the onlyconcessiongranted the ovens charge.their tocookwithout This was in cookthem them to poorfamiliesandlet lords ofIvrea gave beans legumesanddried diet. onceayear, goesthat, The story the people’s for important the beans where very poor. beanstothe distribute time At the Eporediese usedtowhen the fraternities Middlebean feasts) Ages datebacktothe The traditionalfagiolatebenefiche(charitable (Bean Feasts) COPPER CAULDRONS ONIONS LARD PORK BONES PORK TROTTERS SAUSAGES PORK FAT BEANS / Fagiolate inNumbers 3.900 2.300 7.100 400 300 600 400 150 kg kg kg kg kg kg kg

131 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 132 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate Carnival ofIvrea.Carnival ever year. SacroThe popularbeanfeast ofthe Cuore first the was rations ofbeansanddelicioussausages every are distributed neighbourhood residents infactabout15,000 love feast; this ENDASin front of the Club (previously ENAL Club). The dependence. squareThe feast placeinBellavista, takes inthe in- their sametimemaintaining whilstatthe Carnival, of the people’sdemonstrating the tradition desire ofthe tobepart centre ownfrom oftown the Mugnaia, usedtoelecttheir Sacro Cuore. area far ‘40sand‘50s,this It inthe issaidthat, first people’s fagiolata inBellavista, Sacca, Canton Vesco and schoolinCanton OlivettiVesco, nursery the organized the cookfrom ofthe supervision expert of Bellavista, under the Bellavista In 1976, ENAL club ofwillingmembersthe agroup Third tolastSunday before Carnival Distribution —9.30a.m. Sunday before Carnival Saturday before thethird tolast Tasting —8.30p.m to be included in the official program of the of officialprogram fagiolata tobeincludedinthe (Bean Feasts) (viale Kennedy 1) (Gathering of the Priors). AbbàSunday degli ofthe Alzata (Gathering ofthe San Giovannivisit tothe first the beanfeast coincideswith MaggioreAbbà andthe officialtown other bean feasts.to the TheGenerale Stato, the fagiolata initiative timeliked andaddedthis mayor the atthe beans. the to set-up, cook and distribute necessary was The that managed tomakerecycled everything they materials the useofdiscarded and It with event: aself-financing was just moved and get toknow better. incouldmeet eachother who vanni tocreate familiesofthose where anevent the neighbourhood newly-built ofSanof residents Gio ofthe - San Giovanni This Third tolastSunday before Carnival Distribution —9.30p.m Sunday before Carnival The Saturday before thethird tolast Tasting —8.30p.m started in1984.fagiolata started The ideacamefrom agroup (piazza Boves) pay a visit to all official fagiolate; the pay avisittoall officialfagiolate;

133 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 134 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate on Saturday whichisalways fullofsurprises. evening tasting upfor the fagiolata)andturn placetofundthe takes collectionthat questua(the inthe part take many ofthem Today ward for residents: important the fagiolataisvery the in 1984, throwing carriage. buildingofanew the alongwith 1963 strength great reasons for various but it came backwith revived. The was beanfeast, butin1946ted the fagiolata traditionofthe the oneortwoward cauldrons ofbeans. with - interrup The war Fagiolatadecided tocreate the diMontenavale tofeed the Montenavale This The penultimateSunday before Carnival Distribution —9.00a.m Sunday before Carnival The Saturday before thepenultimate Tasting —10.00 p.m was born in1935 born fagiolata was offriends whenagroup (Bean Feasts) was interrupted oncemore in interrupted fagiolata was (viaMontenavale 8) sporting and gastronomic events throughout the year. the andgastronomic throughout events sporting ted. Here associationorganizes allkinds ofself-financing the placeinCasatakes Giuseppina bowls, where clubisloca - the past35years. as ithasbeenfor the ofbeans The distribution Bocciofila Associazione Balfredese (Torre Balfredo Bowls Club), were kids. since they Today this whohave specialevent beenenjoying ofthose this mories (Casa Giuseppina -viaFrandina 2) Torre Balfredo The origin of this traditional bean feast is lost in the me- traditionalbean feast islostinthe ofthis The origin The penultimateSunday before Carnival Tasting anddistribution—10.30 a.m is organized by the fagiolata is organized by the

135 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 136 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL

137 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 138 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate beans are cooked andabout3,500rationsare distributed. ward. firstfagiolataofthe to the Today, 300kgof more than toRegionefrom CantonGabriel Moncrava inviting everyone walls andaffixedwas pastedon tolamppostssmall leaflet ofSanRione delle Lorenzo. parish Vigne inthe In 1977, a nival. fagiolatain spontaneous decidedtoorganize this They young Eporediesi toget actively whowanted involved inCar Cuj dij Vigne Cuj

The original idea of this beanfeast of camefrom agroup ideaofthis The original The penultimateSunday before Carnival Distribution —9.00a.m. Sunday before Carnival The Sunday before thepenultimate Tasting —09.30p.m. (Bean Feasts) (via LagoS.Michele) - community. satisfaction ofworking for the together sametime,the at the and, sense of belonging to Carnival once again the riencing ward,expe- the firstbeansof The crowd the jostlestotaste secondAlzata Priors).of the degliAbbà ofthe (Gathering ward ofSanthe Pietro Martire Sunday early onthe morning is stillgoingstrong, welcoming 100 more than peoplefrom of friends. Today, momentsit stormy afew weathering after San Pietro Martire This spontaneous This spontaneous The penultimateSunday before Carnival Distribution —9.00a.m Sunday before Carnival The Sunday before thepenultimate Tasting —9.00p.m. was createdfagiolata was in 1973 by a group (LaRava elaFava restaurant)

139 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 140 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate Carnival willbeasuccess. Carnival character willbeappreciated communityandwhether by the the whether precise momentitispossibletodiscern at this Cuj d’via Palma result ofhiscampaign: crowd the determines Generale ofthe deportment the that andhisimpact onthe community.intimate moment,strongly felt by the say They ofbeansgets underway. distribution shop), the It isavery tovisitMonsignor Duomo(cathedral) Vescovoup tothe (Bi StoricoCorteo (Historical Parade) way have passedontheir Generale place.Assoonasthe abouttotake Carnival andthe moments key of the is to celebrate and anticipate the giolata previously known as Via Palma. fa- ofthis The mainpurpose owner ofPiola del Generale in , arestaurant Via IVMartiri, Cuj d’via Palma This bean feast was an idea of the parents of the current current parents ofthe This beanfeast anideaofthe was (after theGenerale’s parade). 4.00 p.m.onCarnival Thursday Degustazione edistribuzione—4.00p.m. (Bean Feasts) (via IV Martiri) (viaIVMartiri) - enjoyed by neighbourhood residents andpassers-by alike This town. wake-up tourofthe ritual make their tummies asthey hands and their a steaming cauldron of fat beans to warm e Lorenzo marching Pifferi the Tamburi are welcomed by gramme. annualcelebrationpro- intheir fagiolata asawinterevent whoincludedthe coscritti(conscripts) initiative ofthe to the San Lorenzo At Epiphany, 6January, church ofSan infront ofthe The bean feast of San in 1967 Lorenzo born was thanks Carnival Sunday Distribution —9.00a.m. Carnival Saturday Tasting —10.00 p.m quickly became a tradition and the beansarefagiolata quickly becameatraditionandthe (Ex Polveriera viaLagoS.Michele)

141 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 142 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate San Bernardo allyear round. Pro organizedof events byprogramme the a varied Loco of Pro to fagiolata Loco,whichhasgiven life, addingthe itnew over taken fagiolatawas organizationof the by the 2003, the ry, Sunday. have fatbeansonCarnival beendistributing In XXcentu- of San beginningofthe Bernardo who,sincethe San Bernardo (conscripts) This beanfeast created coscritti(conscripts) was by the Carnival Sunday Distribution —11.00 a.m (Bean Feasts) (piazzadellaChiesa) part used to serve about30kgofcotechino sandwiches. usedtoserve part porkbeans and220kgofcotechini(glutinous sausages), in giolata’s inception. Today fagiolata consumes200kgof the Sunday fat beans on Carnival been distributing since the have henceitsnicknamefagiolataMontefibrefactory: . They houses of workersghbourhood Montefibre nearthe inthe Via Dora Baltea This bean feast was born in1969This beanfeast born was in Via Dora Baltea nei- Carnival Sunday Distribution —10.30 a.m. Carnival Saturday Tasting —9.30p.m fa-

143 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING 144 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Fagiolate to taste anicebowl fagiolatatotaste ofbeans. head tothis people will who and joy qualities all arethe it shares the with changing timesandfashions.Generosity, co-operation, good community,ce for the remaining toitsvalues despite true Bean Feast ofCastellazzo)- continuestogrow inimportan this feast. this Castellazzo isadirect fagiolataofthe descendentof rito: the provide Confraternita the was suchabanquet diSanto Spi- banquet. dients for fraternity agreat to The firstfraternity - ingre the furnished allyear round foodstuffs that various Middle Ages. inthe ternities usedtocollect The fraternities Castellazzo This bean feast preserves the original values of the fra- values ofthe original This beanfeast the preserves Carnival Sunday Distribution —08.00a.m. The Benefica Fagiolata del Castellazzo (Charitable (Bean Feasts) (piazzaMaretta)

146 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Polenta andcodfish event toendCarnival. event reintroduced traditionasacharity this Borghetto) (Committee ofCroatia inthe World War the the justlike communityevent, it isatrue codfishandonions; with to cookpolenta whoworkeddifferent parishes together ofresidentscelebrated by groups ofthe of Lent.In Ivrea, occasionwas this Church imposed observance rigorous Counter-Reformation Catholic ofthe when the XVIcentury second halfofthe period. This traditiondatesbacktothe Wednesday Lent strict the kicksoff A traditionallightmealonAsh . At the end of the Second endofthe fagiolate. At the Comitato dellaCroazia

to Tuesdaymidday) (from earlyMondaymorning SERVERS COOKS PEELERS ONION COPPER CAULDRONS WITH ( SUNFLOWER OIL ONIONS STOCKFISH / Polenta andcodfishin numbers FLOUR WATER each) 1.000 1.000 350 150 250 10 kg lt lt kg kg 40 30 15

147 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL AT DRINKING AND EATING

150 EATING AND DRINKING AT CARNIVAL Vin brulé stirring until the sugarhasdissolved. untilthe stirring boil for about five minutesand keep tothe and stirfor minutes,bring afew peel.Add citrus apinchofnutmeg the 250 gr. ofsugar, 10 cloves, appleand the cinnamonsticks, three into apot with Pour rings. it inthin 1.5 litres ofred wine Wash anapple,remove core andcut the removing white part. peel without the oranges andanorganiclemon,cutthe you prepare Vin two Brulè: wash organic andboostyour energy.warm This ishow red tokeep wineandspices,drunk with (Mulled Wine), ahot beverage made aroma of the drenchedVin with Brulè the Carnival During Town ofIvrea is 152 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? CHAPTER 7 place? take When willCarnival / PG. 153

153 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? TAKE CARNIVAL WILL WHEN 154 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? ven’t mademake any mistakes! place,assumingwe willtake ha- know whenCarnival exactly onthe val starts Thursday before Ash Wednesday. We now Sundays inLent)andhere we findAsh Wednesday.- Carni have to go backwards 6 46 days (40 days of Lent plus the Sunday, So 25April. far, the sogood! to beonaSunday, we following willhave untilthe towait ison firstfullmoonofspring this happens the and 18 April, the that willbeon and 18 If first fullmoonofspring, April. fullmoon(whichwillappear29days later)tohavenext the 20March,moon fallsonthe we willhave for towait the 22March. full i.e.the SundayIf the that, the straightafter Equinox, and it happens to be a Saturday, Easter will fall on March 25April. andthe nox (21 March). It always falls on a Sunday 22 the between Sundaythe Equi- Spring following firstfull moon after the heldin325AD,which was EasterSunday first fallsonthe of Jesus ofNazareth. According CouncilofNicaea, tothe always celebratedonaSunday, resurrection day ofthe the calendar thatshows whenAsh Wednesday is? How dowe know whenCarnival willbewithouta When willCarnival benextyear? Once whenEasterSunday we have determined willbe,we the sameday as ison firstfullmoonofspring Spring If the First ofall,you needtoknow whenEasterfalls.is

155 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? TAKE CARNIVAL WILL WHEN 156 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? Locations Carnival / PG. 157 CHAPTER 8

157 WHEN WILL CARNIVAL TAKE PLACE? TAKE CARNIVAL WILL WHEN PIAZZA DEL MERCATO

Carnival places VIA S.ULDERICO

VIALE MONTE STELLA Historical Parade Procession

Battle of the Oranges

1. Castello (Castle) ALLAZIONE

2. Duomo (Cathedral) VIA CIRCONV VIA S. VARMONDO ARBORIO 3. Cathedral Square: Holy Service and the Candle Ceremony, the Corteo Storico’s visit to the Bishop VIA AOST P.zza DUOMO VIA CUNIBER A 4. Castle Square: the oath of loyalty of the Podestà, 3 VIA MACCHIERALDO Zappata and torching of the Scarlo di Rione Sant’Ulderico 1 VIA VERNA P.zza TI 2 FILLAK P.zza VIA PERETTI CASTELLO CANT 5. Santa Marta Hall: exhibitions, tourist information VIA S. MAR VIA TORRI 7 PIAZZA P.zza

VIA CA 10 ARANA M. BIANCO 4 P.zza del BALLA 6. Theatre Squaree: the dance of the Mugnaia PIAZZA PISTONI VIA PEANA 5 TEATRO P.zza VIA GARIGLIETTI TINO and the Generale TTEDRALE OTTINETTI V.A. DI CASTELLAMONTE P.zza CORSO MASSIMO D’AZEGLIO VIA 4 MAR S. MARTA 6 7. Giacosa Theatre: introduction of the Abbà, VIA BER VIA PALESTRO AIONE evening in honor of the Mugnaia TIRI VIA COR VIA DEI P

TINA VIA P PIAZZA DELLA 12 CREDENZA

P.zza TTI Zappata and torching VIA OSPEDALE 8. Rondolino Square: di CITTÀ TE D’ASSISE A of the Scarlo di Rione San Lorenzo TRIOTI 9 VIA ARDUINO

VIA LUCA VIA SICCARDI The Handover of the CORSO GARIBALDI 11 9. Freguglia Square: P.zza Libro dei Processi Verbali A FREGUGLIA TONO VIA MARSALA

13 VOUR VIA BARA V

I P.zza VIA DEI MULINI VIA RIV 10. Ottinetti Square: Carnival’s Showcase, Battle A CORSO CA P.zza

P.ZZA P S. FRANCESCO I

FERRANDO A T

Lessons, Orange Throwers’ Market, Kids’ Party, ‘…. e la festa BOT CORSO

GIOBERTI V E continua’ (‘… and the party goes on’), Arvédze a giòbia ‘n bot A VIA ALDISIO CORSO RE UMBER TO

11. Town Square: The Generale’s swearing-in ceremony, VIA GUARNOTT VOUR CORSO GALLO Prise du Drapeau, Generala, Presentation of the throwing P.zza del RONDOLINO carts, Handover of power, Donning the berretto frigio, the CORSO CA Abbà visit the Mayor, Investiture of the Oditori et Intendenti, 8 Presentation of the Mugnaia’s Scorta d’Onore, Presentation A DORA BALTEA of the Mugnaia, Starting point of the march of the Corteo Storico, Zappata and torching of the Scarlo di Rione San 14 Salvatore, Albero della Libertà, Trofeo Pich e Pala, Orange CORSO C. NIGRA throwers’ prize-giving ceremony, Closing Proclamation.

15 VIA GOZZANO 12. Ancient Palace of the Credenza 13. Gioberti/Maretta Square: The Charitable Bean Feast of the Castellazzo, Zappata and torching of the Scarlo di Rione San Maurizio

14. Ponte Vecchio: The reconciliation ceremony between the people of the Rioni di San Maurizio and the Borghetto, 16 TEA Preda in Dora PIAZZA LAMARMORA 15. Gozzano Street/Borghetto: Zappata and torching of the VIA DORA BAL Scarlo di Rione San Grato, Starting point of the Funeral March CORSO C. NIGRA

16. Lamarmora Square: Polenta and codfish

VIA DELLE MINIERE

VIA C. OLIVETTI