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Dune Erosion During Storm Surges

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Dune Erosion During Storm Surges DUNE EROSION DURING STORM SURGES Deltares Select Series Volume 3 ISSN 1877-5608 Deltares is a Dutch independent research institute for water, soil and subsurface is- sues. It was formed in 2008 from a merger of Delft Hydraulics, GeoDelft, the Subsur- face and Groundwater unit of TNO and parts of Rijkswaterstaat. Cover: Beach and dunes at Westenschouwen in The Netherlands; photo by Jaap van Thiel de Vries. Previously published in this series: Volume 2. P.M.S. Monteiro and M. Marchand (Eds.), Catchment2Coast: A Systems Approach to Coupled River-Coastal Ecosystem Science and Management Volume 1. F.J. Los, Eco-Hydrodynamic Modelling of Primary Production in Coastal Waters and Lakes Using BLOOM DUNE EROSION DURING STORM SURGES PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de Technische Universiteit Delft, op gezag van de Rector Magnificus prof.dr.ir. J.T. Fokkema, voorzitter van het College voor Promoties, in het openbaar te verdedigen op dinsdag 1 september 2009 om 15:00 uur door Jacob Simon Marie VAN THIEL DE VRIES civiel ingenieur geboren te ‘s-Hertogenbosch Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotoren: Prof.dr.ir. M.J.F. Stive Prof.dr.ir. A.J.H.M. Reniers copromotor: Dr.ir. J. van de Graaff Samenstelling promotiecommissie: Rector Magnificus voorzitter Prof.dr.ir. M.J.F. Stive Technische Universiteit Delft, promotor Prof.dr.ir. A.J.H.M. Reniers University of Miami (Verenigde Staten), promotor Dr.ir. J. van de Graaff Technische Universiteit Delft, copromotor Prof.dr. R.A. Holman Oregon State University (Verenigde Staten) Prof.dr.ir. L.C. van Rijn Universiteit Utrecht Prof.dr.ir. J.A. Roelvink UNESCO-IHE Institute for Water Education Dr. B.G. Ruessink Universiteit Utrecht The research has been funded by the Dr.Ir. Cornelis Lely Foundation and the Delft Cluster II joint research program. Copyright © 2009 by J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries and IOS Press All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without prior written permission from the publisher. ISBN: 978-1-60750-041-4 Library of Congress Control Number: 2009932267 Publisher IOS Press BV Nieuwe Hemweg 6B 1013 BG Amsterdam Netherlands fax: +31 20 687 0019 e-mail: [email protected] LEGAL NOTICE The publisher is not responsible for the use which might be made of the following in- formation PRINTED IN THE NETHERLANDS Duin, ‘k Hou u voor een wonderwerk: Gij zijt zwak, maar echter sterk; Schoon uw stoffe niet en kleeft; En met alle winden zweeft, Nog zoo moet de oceaan Voor uw zwakheid stille staan. Jacob Cats, (1656), Uit het lange gedicht Hofgedachten. CONTENTS Abstract xi Samenvatting xv Chapter 1 Introduction 1 1.1 Dune erosion ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 1.2 Societal importance ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 1.3 Process-based modeling of dune erosion ------------------------------------------------ 3 1.4 Thesis outline --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 Chapter 2 Large scale dune erosion tests 7 2.1 Introduction ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7 2.2 Physical model description and instrument deployment --------------------------- 8 2.2.1 Set up of physical model ....................................................................... 9 2.2.2 Test programme .................................................................................. 10 2.2.3 Instrument deployment ....................................................................... 12 2.3 Measured profiles and erosion volumes ------------------------------------------------ 18 2.3.1 Profiles ................................................................................................ 18 2.3.2 Erosion volumes .................................................................................. 20 2.4 Detailed test results ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 21 2.4.1 Waves ................................................................................................. 21 2.4.2 Flow .................................................................................................... 24 2.4.3 Sediment concentrations ..................................................................... 26 2.4.4 Sediment transports ............................................................................ 27 2.5 Effect of the wave period------------------------------------------------------------------ 29 2.6 Conclusions ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32 Chapter 3 Interaction of dune face and swash zone 35 3.1 Introduction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35 3.2 High resolution dune face reconstruction from stereo images -------------------- 36 3.2.1 Introduction ........................................................................................ 36 3.2.2 Camera model .................................................................................... 38 3.2.3 Camera calibration ............................................................................. 39 3.2.4 Image pre-processing .......................................................................... 41 3.2.5 Feature matching ................................................................................ 41 3.2.6 World coordinates from feature matching ........................................... 44 3.2.7 An example reconstruction ................................................................. 44 viii Contents 3.3 Dune face erosion due to wave impacts ----------------------------------------------- 47 3.3.1 Previous studies on dune face erosion due to wave impacts ................ 47 3.3.2 Visual observations during the Deltaflume experiment ....................... 49 3.3.3 Dune face impact model ..................................................................... 51 3.4 Conclusions and discussion --------------------------------------------------------------- 57 Chapter 4 Modeling near dune hydrodynamics 59 4.1 Introduction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 59 4.2 Model description --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 60 4.2.1 Model boundaries ............................................................................... 62 4.3 Hydrodynamic simulation for the Deltaflume experiment ------------------------ 63 4.4 Hydrodynamic simulations for the La Jolla field experiment -------------------- 67 4.5 Interaction between short wave groups and long waves --------------------------- 74 4.6 Conclusions and discussion --------------------------------------------------------------- 77 Chapter 5 Modeling near dune sediment suspensions 79 5.1 Introduction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 79 5.2 Data analysis --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 80 5.3 1DV Sediment suspension model -------------------------------------------------------- 85 5.3.1 1DV Model description ....................................................................... 86 5.3.2 Simulations ......................................................................................... 90 5.4 Wave and depth averaged sediment concentration formulation ----------------- 95 5.5 Conclusions and discussion --------------------------------------------------------------- 97 5.5.1 Conclusions ......................................................................................... 97 5.5.2 Discussion and recommendations ........................................................ 98 Chapter 6 Modeling dune erosion 101 6.1 Introduction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------101 6.2 Model adaptations and extensions -----------------------------------------------------102 6.2.1 Wave energy dissipation formulation ................................................ 102 6.2.2 Equilibrium sediment concentration formulation .............................. 103 6.2.3 Wave shape model ............................................................................ 104 6.2.4 Hard structures ................................................................................. 109 6.3 Model optimization ------------------------------------------------------------------------110 6.4 1D Morphodynamic simulations--------------------------------------------------------113 6.4.1 Deltaflume experiment ...................................................................... 113 6.4.1 Dune revetment ................................................................................ 128 6.4.2 Calm and moderate conditions ......................................................... 129 6.4.3 1953 storm surge ............................................................................... 132 6.5 Model sensitivity ---------------------------------------------------------------------------134 6.5.1 Importance of long waves and short waves ....................................... 134 6.5.2 Sediment supply from dunes by avalanching .................................... 142 6.6 2DH Morphodynamic simulations -----------------------------------------------------146 6.6.1 Uniform coast ................................................................................... 147 6.6.2 Alongshore variability in dune height ..............................................
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