<<

]l MOUNTAINEER

1950 ,, The MOUNTAINEER

1950 MOUNT ROBSON •••from a forthcoming book by Bob and Ira Spring I•

I9J O The MOUNTAINEER

Volume 42 DECEMBER 15, 1950 Number 13

Organized 1906 Incorporated 1913

EditOt"ial Board 1950 HELEN McLELLAN, Editor HELEN A. FROBERG MILDRED HOFFMAN

Typists and Proofreadet"S LILO BERLINER MARY HOSSACK

ELENOR BUSWELL CLAIRE MOCK

HILDE M. FROHLICH MRS. LOUIS NASH

HAZEL GATES LEE SNIDER

Photography Editing BOB AND IRA SPRING

Mailing MRS. IRVING GAVETT

Subscriprion Price, $2.00 a Year

Published and Copyrighted 1950 by THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC.

Published monrhly, January to November, inclusive, and semi-monthly during December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC., P. 0. Box 122, Seatrle 11, Washington Clubrooms at 523 Pike Street I Entered as Second Class Matter, April 18, 1922 ar Post Office at ) Seattle, Washingron, under rl1e Act of March 3, 1879 31 � THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC.

OFFICERS-1951 President, T. Davis Castor Secrelt11')', Mary Anderson CAMERON BECKWITH Vice-President, Treamrer, Phyllis Cavander

ELECTED TRUSTEES Terms Expiring October 31, 1951 Terms Expiring Octobe1 31, 1952 Mary Anderson T. Davis Castor Burge Bickford John Hossack Cameron Beckwith Leo Gallagher William Degenhardt Mrs. Irving Gavett Arthur Winder George MacGowan Seattle Committee Chairmen See Monthly Bulletin

TACOMA BRANCH President, Keith Goodman Secrelary-Treamrer, Mary Fries Vice-President, Wally Miner Tmstee, John Carter

TRUSTEES Norma Judd Walker Frederick Ann Jackson Clarence Garner

CHAIRMEN OF COMMITTEES , Jack Gallagher Membership, Mildred Altes Conservation, Bill Kilmer Music, Irene Slade Dance, John Upham Photographic, Florence Richardson frish Cabin, Raver P11blicity, Carl Heacon IriJh Cabin Activity, Alice Ski, Lester Fasig Local Walks, Marjorie Goodman Socict!, Stella Kellogg Specict! 011ti11gs, Gene Faure

EVERETT UNIT President, Vivian Widmer Treas11rer, C. 0. Davis Secretary, Winnetta Banks Tmstee, Frank Eder

CHAIRMEN OF COMMITTEES Local lJ7alks, Adelsa Doph Social, Lee Hirman Program, Nodle Corbin Pttblicity. Louise Lawrence Membership, Frank Eder Skiing, William Doph Banquet, Loleta Table of Contents Page

OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES ______...... 4 A WEALTH OF OPPORTUNITY. .._ .. _ ...... : ..... --·····-·········--····· 7 SWISS ALPINE SKI TOUR ···································································-········ 11 GOOD LUCK ON YERUPAJA_···················-·······················--··------·········-····· 15 IN MEMORIAM...... ------·······-································-··········---············ 18 SLIDING MIDDLEMAN TECHNIQUE IN SNOW...... 19 RETURN TO MT. ROBSON-1950 ...... ---··········-·-·········---···········---···· 25 CLIMBER'S LULLABY, 1950...... ---························-···--·-········--····· 29 1950 IN REVIEW- President's Page -·-·····---···--···-···································································· 34 Year in Tacoma ...... ·-············-······-··-··-····························-·· 35 Year in Everett ·······-··-···················································--·····-----·-········-··-··· 36 Third Annual Northwest Conference.··············-·········-····· 3 7 Players ·····················-··-···········-·····------··-·······-···········-·······-···················- 38 Climbing Notes ······---·······-··-·-·········-··································-···············-····· 40 Trail Trips from Seattle...... ------·························-·········-··········· ······· 43 Campcrafters ············-·····-····-···-·······-·························································· 44 Skiing ······················································-················································· 46 Foldboating -······················-············································-········-·················· 48 Lodges --··-···-·-···-·················-·------··-··························--··········-····-··-·····--·-··-· 49 Club Entertainment ···········-····-······························-··················-·····-···-······· 51 PHOTOGRAPHIC NOTES ································-························-·-·········-······ 52 LIBRARY ADDITIONS ...... 53 MEMBERSHIP ····-···-······------····-·-··------·-········--··---·--·-······························· 54 Seattle Roster ··························································································-··· 54 Tacoma Roster ········································································-··················· 72 Everett Roster ····-······················································································· 74 FINANCIAL REPORTS ----·······------···-···-····················-···································· 76 MOUNTAIN SAFETY TIPS ...... : ...... ___ Wolf Bauer

I } 5 J I 6 A Wealth of Opportunity By ARTHUR R. WINDER

ONSERVATION, co use the pat definition, is the preservation and protection of our natural resources, whether it be the soil of the great agricultural regions,C the minerals that come from the earth, the timber resources of our forests, or the products of the sea. Since the viewpoint in this regard is usually colored by gazing strictly through economic eye glasses, generally overlooked by most experts are resources whose shameful Q.eglect has really only just begun co be realized. Those resources are our wilderness areas, and other sections of outstanding natural wonder or beauty set aside in the public interest for park purposes, with their attendant esthetic and recreational values. What man or woman, possessed of any soul, can, for example, stand in the presence of the wonders of our National Parks and not marvel at the forces that have created them, nor fail to thank those farsighted individuals who have been responsible

for their preservation, for the eternal delight of the generations ·CO come. Mountaineers are, and by necessity must be, nature preservationists. Their existence as an organization is dependent upon that fact, for without the wilderness and other reserved areas, there would not be the incentive for outdoor life as we know and love it. And it would be easy for us co beguile ourselves into thinking that there are plenty of such regions for all, but it has been proven time and time again that in the final analysis, we never have enough co meet the increasing demands of a growing population. We will be coo late with too little unless an aroused citizenry will demand its inalienable rights as owners of the public domain to secure adequate reservations for primitive areas and parks before the desired regions have been snapped up by the greedy maw of selfish interests. The wilderness is also a definite factor in the preserva­ tion of our economic life, particularly in the Pacific,Northwest, where we are dependent upon the careful use of our water resources, in that it provides natural controls over natural forces, as well as maintaining a desirable ecological unit. Yet the picture today does not indicate much progress, and in fact we are greatly in danger of actually losing some of the things which have been gained in years past, for once again local and special selfish interests, magnified and distorted all out of proportion co the true national interest, are seeking co destroy one of the fine units of the National Park System, the Dinosaur National Monument. Dinosaur National Monument includes 327 square miles of spectacular canyons in northeastern Utah and northwestern Colorado. Within it is found, also, a dinosaur "quarry," from whence the monument secures its title, Indian archeological remains and an interesting variety of plant and animal life. But it is the scenery which is outstanding and makes this area one of the more beautiful and inspiring units of the National Park System. Through parts of the monument flows the rapid, curving Yampa River, entering from the east, while the River enters the area from the north through the wild and spectacular Ladore Canyon. This is a reservation worthy in every respect to be preserved for posterity, as it is the only unit in the National Parks which tells the story of the upper Colorado River. Although the Service has plans for developing the area for public use, so far this has not been undertaken, due to lack of funds. But there now hangs over this monument the sort of threat that increasingly confronts our public reservations. It is the proposal of the Bureau of Reclamation to construct two dams for power and irrigation, at Split Moun- I 7

I j tain and Echo Park. Split Mountain Dam would dry up the Green River for several miles to create a reservoir that could be maintained at a fairly consistent level. Echo Park Dam, which would be 525 feet above the canyon floor level, would inundate the Yampa canyon, flooding geological formations of outstand­ ing value and destroying the beauty and life of the canyon floor. This is no idle threat. A hearing, conducted by Secretary Oscar Chapman, of the Department of the Interior, was held in Washington, D. C., April 3, 1950, and although at that time it was shown that alternate damsites outside the monument area would cost less to build on, store more water and create more electric power, the Secretary made his decision in favor of the Bureau of Reclamation's plan for the construction of Split Mountain Dam, and bills have been presented in Congress for the purpose of exempting Dinosaur National Monument from restrictions against the building of such structures. Such action is clearly in violation of the and concept, as well as contrary to the public law, of the National Park Service. If this bill passes Congress and is signed by the President, it might easily be the flesh wound which, under pressure from selfish interests, could push the sword into the heart of our National Parks. The Dinosaur emergency also is causing serious thought concerning two disturbing factors in the national conservation-preservation scene. One is the relationship within our own government between various bureaus. In the case of Dinosaur, two agencies from the same department, the Bureau of Reclama­ tion, whose principal aim is exploitation, and the National Park Service, whose purpose is to preserve the natural scene, were in direct opposition over the vital points under consideration, and the Secretary was forced to make a decision in favor of one over the other. That decision was for exploitation, and the basic principles of the park service were thereby endangered. It is curious to note that one of the deciding factors noted by Mr. Chapman was that the Bureau of Reclamation already had plans for construction of the dam within the monu­ ment, whereas none were immediately available for alternate sites. If an agency merely has to have plans available, it augers ill for the conservationist if in the future such a decision must be made again, and the threat to Dinosaur is but typical of other danger areas such as the dam to flood the lower Kings Canyon, the cutting of timber in Olympic National Park, the proposed Glacier View Dam in Glacier Park, or the flooding of Mammoth Cave. The integrity of our National Parks must be preserved, and the letting down of the barriers for one weakens the defense of all. Another factor is the question of which is of the greater economic value; that is, would bring more dollars and cents to the people of the vicinity-con­ struction of a dam to benefit a comparatively small group of people or retention of the natural scene for the benefit of all the nation. In some cases the latter provides the greater economic gain for the locality. As Bestor Robinson of the Sierra Club pointed our in his statement at the Dinosaur hearing, the state of California had two Yosemires, the valleys of the Merced and the Herch-Hetchy. A dam was constructed on the Hetch-Hetchy and a reservoir created. Over a period of a year this artificial lake attracts a few hundred visitors; the unde­ spoiled of the Merced, Yosemite, almost a million. The economic value to a community on that basis alone is overwhelmingly on the side of the natural scene, and this is a point that conservationists must drive home to those who have the urge-and who are being urged-to despoil their natural beauties for the construction, usually, of a dam. Almost every section of this country has a dam and reservoir where interested people may visit-we have no Paul Bunyans ro carve out those magnificent canyons for us. On the credit side of the ledger, there have been some important gains for the conservationist during the past year. One of these has been the establishment 8 of the Grand Teton National Park with the inclusion of most of the area for­ merly contained within the Jackson Hole National Monum�nt, which is now abolished. The O'Mahoney Bill, establishing the enlarged park, provides for some compromise settlements of such controversial issues as private lands within the park, grazing and hunting rights, supervision of the elk herds, and .1 monetary returns to the communities of Jackson County. This brings to successful conclusion the fight against the enemies of the previous monument, who would have had it destroyed for the benefit of a very few selfish land holders. The American people owe a debt of gratitude co the people and organ­ izations who have been carrying on this campaign, with a special vote of thanks to Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who so generously acquired a great deal of the lands now included in the park. Of special significance, coo, was the act of President Truman in signing an air space reservation for the Quetico-Superior Wilderness Area of Northern Minnesota, thereby retaining this splendid land of lake and forest in its true wilderness aspect, free from the roar and pop-bottle bombing of low-flying planes and the cheap commercialism flown in by the iron birds. The reservation restricts airplanes co certain altitudes and excludes sections from air travel, and is a genuine vicrory for nature preservationists, with the way now immediately clear ahead for the work of permanently establishing Quetico-Superior in its planned wilderness future, which in combination with the region already set aside by the Canadian government, will form an international primitive park of outstanding value and beauty. Attracting a great deal of interest also is the decision of the Forest Service to convert the large Glacier Peak Limited Area of Washingron State into a Wilder­ ness Area. A limited area is land set aside from the public domain on a "srop­ look-listen" basis, pending completion of studies which will determine the best use for which the region would be suited, and thus better serve the people of the vicinity. It is unquestionable that the Glacier Peak region, with its tre­ mendously rugged mountains, beautiful mountain meadows and lakes, is admir­ ably suited for use as a wilderness area, with its attendant recreational values, and thus is better left in its comparatively primitive state. A conference of interested groups will be held this winter for the purpose of deciding final boundaries and the general status of the area, but final decision as to conversion to a wilderness area will rest with the Secretary of Agriculture. It must be pointed out, however, that such regions established by the Forest Service are very vulnerable to the establishment of mining claims, and a revision of the ancient mining laws is necessary co positively and adequately defend these areas from future encroachment. A general trend throughout the country toward more consideration of the various aspects of conservation of our natural resources is a heartening develop­ ment. Many ·states have formed commissions for that purpose and several are considering similar proposals. California has instituted in her public schools and colleges study courses in conservation, with some text books being pro­ vided in cooperation with Federal agencies, and the University of Washingron held its first conference on conservation last spring. However, there is yet no favorable evidence that consideration of wilderness and recreational areas as desirable and valuable resources is yet being given serious thought. And here lies one of the broadest and most fertile fields for the preservationist to explore -public enlightenment through education and information-particularly with the youth of our nation. The need is great-the results could be magnificent. Complacency is no virtue for the preservationist; there is still, and will probably always be a great deal co be done. Our parks and forests must be defended against crass commercialism and selfish interests, and protected for 9

I J the benefit of future generations, and it must be admitted, for our own enjoy­ ment at the present time. Studies must be constantly made on new proposals, pending legislation, changes and new additions to our public reservations, and plans for new additions. These studies are of vast importance in attempting to analyze respective values and their relative importance to the region and people involved, for we must be fair in our conduct of our work, in that projects proposed and having merit shall not be opposed merely for the sake of opposi- · ti.on. Similarly we must not acquire new areas for wilderness or park that do not measure up to the standards expected of such areas. Such a lowering of standards will reduce the quality of the whole system of reservations for the public benefit. In addition to analysis of our· problems, ocher groups with similar interests must be contacted for concerted action in realizing our aims; campaigns must be conducted in the public press and before the public at large, and government officials interviewed for their advice and cooperation. In short, there is a wealth of opportunity for the true lover of the natural scene. There are many of these men and women in the Mountaineers, most of them well informed on our conservation problems, but very few have come forward W assist the work of the club in chis respect, with the result that too few persons have been forced to carry the load. With a larger and therefore more vigorous Public Affairs Committee, there is no limit to the possibilities chat our club can accomplish. You can help. Beside serving with the Public Affairs Committee there are a number of methods by which you may keep yourself informed on conservation matters. Membership in the Wilderness Society and the National Parks Association will bring you their fine publications with up-to-dace discussions of conservation "hot-spots," as well as interesting articles on wildlife and the natural beauties of our wilderness areas. A very important way is to become an associate member in the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs, and take an active part in its affairs. The yearly dollar dues brings its quarterly, devoted to conservation news and doings of other clubs. A sample of the broad pattern of the Federation may be sernred from some of the resolutions adopted at the 1950 convention at Clair Tapaan lodge of the Sierra Club ac Donner Pass lase labor Day weekend. Among these were the restatement of National Park policies and a protest against invasion of several units of the System by dams, a request for additional organizational campsites in National Parks, a restatement of previous protests against the construction of an aerial tramway in the San Jacinto Primitive Area, encouragement of conservation through education, a request to the State of Oregon to include recreation as a part of the proposed new resources commission ( as well as to open Oregon state parks to over-night camping), a protest against che disturbance of the California Condor Sanctuary for the purpose of exploring for oil deposits, and a suggestion to the Forest Service concerning the conversion of certain limited areas into wilderness areas and the return of others to normal supervision. In addition co conservation matters, the Federation discusses common club problems, exchanging ideas on activities, membership and conduce of outings, and displays a great deal of interest in the matter of mountain safety in the mountains and forests, and generally coordinates the work of conservation on the Pacific Coast, well knowing that in numbers there is strength, and the greater the numbers the greater the force chat may be applied for the benefit of our nation, and particularly chose who are desirous of saving a portion of our grandeur for others to witness and marvel at. John , of the Sierra Club, is the president of the Federation for this year and he will more than welcome your assistance, suggestions and cooperation.

10 Swiss Alpine Ski Tour By LYNN T. WA LLER

N the United States the fellow who remarks, ''I'd like to go on a ski tour," is I regarded by the majority of skiers as a , a beginner, or so poor in ability that he wants to get away from the populated slopes. The "pat" reply is, "Well, brother, you can have that kind of skiing; all I want to do is come down the mountains. As for walking up them-I like to do that sitting down." Here touring ends, for the majority. A few enthusiasts, marked with rucksack and climbers, pursue one of the real thrills of skiing. Won't you come along on a week-end ski tour high up in the Swiss Alps in the Canton of Glarus ? In the winter of 1949 I was a student in the University of Zurich, Switzer­ land. I had joined a students' sports club, The Academischer Sportsverien, and through this club I was learning the wonders of skiing in the Alps. For the ridiculously low rate of $45 it was possible to enjoy a full week at one of the foremost ski centers of Europe. This rate included meals, lodging, ski instruc­ tion, and transportation, which in this instance was about 80 miles. For as little as $4 or $5 you could ski jaunt for a week-end. One such tour was to the Schild, a mountain about 9,000 feet high, with broad open slopes that offered the very best to all skiers. Our ski-tour began on a Saturday afternoon in February of '49. We entrained in Zurich for the little village of Nafels, about fifty miles away. Detraining at three in the afternoon, we hustled to reach the little chalet up the mountain that was to be our shelter for the night. As the lase rays of the setting sun caught at the tops of the peaks in back of us, we arrived. The thirty­ odd of us, including ten Swiss maids, were assigned to our respective dormi­ tories, and stowed our gear. Supper was typically Swiss; thick potato soup, spaghetti and meatballs, hard, black bread, and coffee. Though lacking in elegance, the food stuck to our ribs, and certainly hit the spot that cold night. Our tour leader, Ernst Strupler, a young physical education instructor at the University of Zurich, gave us a brief outline of the next day's program. By starting at the civilized hour of seven, we would be able to reach the summit by noon. After lunch and rest, we would then have the entire afternoon to enjoy the unexcelled thrill of a nine- or ten-mile run to the village of Muhlehorn where we would entrain for the return jaunt to Zurich. Ernst also took this occasion to divide our large group into three smaller groups of ten, each under the leadership of an instruaor. One group consisted of the "Kanonen" or h�t­ rod skiers, while the rest of us, skiers of medium ability, made up the other two groups. This division was for the purpose of effecting an easier, con­ trolled descent. When the morrow's plan was completed, we lapsed into complete and utter relaxation. Singing, yodeling, the like of which one hears only in the Alps, burst from the lungs of these spirited young Swiss. Dancing and wild games fired the enthusiasm of us all. Yet by ten o'clock, the next day's climb on our minds, we were ready for bed. Sleeping on mattresses spread on the floor was not at all as we had anticipated. It was too cold, we had too few blankets, and there were too many of us crowded into a little room. Ernst's rousing .calls I in the black at six the next morning were a welcome sound co all of us. I Ski touring in the mountains means climbing up the mountains. This involves work, so it lacks popularity among the people in this country. It's l different with the Swiss. They love their mountains with such a deep passion J 11 I LYNN WALLER Ski Tour in Ober-Engadin Ski fields on Schild Tour Up the Schild in Canton Glarus that it is difficult to understand their feelings. They do almost anything to gee cut and up into their mountains. Even though we were out and climbing at seven, we could see groups of twos, and ·threes, and fives up above us making their way to the top. The climb was not technical, we simply walked up some rather steep grades. Bue co most Americans, this is abhorrent, especially with a pair of skis underfoot. Using climbers and following in the cracks of the skier ahead, we made remarkable progress. A good deal of credit for chis was due to the knack Ernst had for picking ascents that were not too steep, and co his ability co keep us going at a slow but steady pace chat did not seem co tire us. We had two stops for rests and refreshments of raisins or chocolate, and, sure enough, just as Ernst had outlined, we gained the summit at noon. Perfect weather enabled us to scan the cop of Europe. Oh, the satisfaction, the pleasure co be gained from sitting on a mountain cop you've climbed, though it be only a walk-up ! Our spot had only one disadvantage chat day, it was a bit chilly and windy. After we'd looked around, we skied off the cop and down three or four hundred feet into a sheltered lee where we were able co lunch, and sun ourselves in comfort. An hour later we were ready for the afternoon's fun. Our groups split up, with the medium-ability skiers leaving first. We weren't alone, however, as evidenced by the many ski cracks in the snow. In fact, the "pista" or track was in excellent condition because so many skiers had used and packed it down for us. I judge that five or six hundred skiers had climbed chat Schild that day, without a cow in the area, simply for the thrill of chis long downhill run. That run was something! It had everything, open slopes where one could do lazy christies at will, eight little canyons that had to be side-slipped and step-turned in order to be negotiated. More than chis, the run was livened with the gay yodels and haloos of exhuberanc people enjoying a wonderful ski tour. About half way down we suddenly burst onto a wide, open slope at the bottom of which was a hut with a large number of skiers assembled in front. We, coo, stopped at the tea hut for a rest and a welcome cup of tea. What a gay sight it was, with everyone sitting on skis in the sun, but most impressive of all were the heavily-bearded Swiss who were serving up the tea. The hut was a real enterprise, returning a tremendous profit for a small outlay in equipment, because the entire thing was portable. The huts, I learned, were cow stables, not human habitats. Sufficiently reseed, we continued on our way down the rnouncains. The lower we descended, the less pleasurable became our skiing. We'd come to the forests, and instead of skiing across Alpine meadows, we now had to follow trails and dodge trees. Nevertheless, it was all fun. As we neared the bottom of our run, we came out into meadows chat farmers had cleared, and here we were able to have a lase fling at controlled christies before it was necessary to remove our skis and walk hal.f a mile co the railway station. le had been a perfect day of skiing. As I sac in the train that evening, listening co the joyous chatter of my Swiss companions, I couldn't help but wish that such a day could be duplicated in America. It can, to a certain extent, but far coo few American skiers are willing to go after skiing with the vigor of the Swiss. In the Pacific Northwest I've seen snow fields equal co chose I saw in Switzerland, but as yet only a very few venturesome souls go out on tours. Perhaps because too few facilities exist at this date; perhaps because more skiers need co "educated" to the joys of ski touring. That poses something of a problem; ski tours have co be experienced in order for their pleasures co be assimilated. Next time someone comes up to you on a slope and asks, "Want to tour ?" take him up on it. You'll have a lot of fun. 13 COURTESY GEO. BELL West Face of Yerupaja, from the glacier at .18,000 feet, [1] summit [2] accident [3] bivouac [4] five Good Luck on Yerupaja By DAVID HARRAH . NE of the great mountain frontiers extant is the Cordillera de Huayhuash O in Cent�al Peru. Its exceedingly precipitous ridges and Himalayan ice formations provide an unsurpassed climbing challenge; and some of its summits, notably Jirishanca, are considered impossible. The area has been visited by several expeditions, mostly European. The monarch peak, 21,769-foot Yerupaja, second highest in Peru, was attempted twice by Erwin Schneider and Arnold Awerzger in 1936, but turned them back at 20,000 feet. This peak was the major objective of the 1950 Harvard Andean Expedition. George Bell, Graham Matthews, Jim Maxwell, and Austen Riggs, all from the Harvard Mountaineer­ ing Club, had planned for Yerupaja for three years. Chuck Crush and I from the Stanford Alpine Club added our momentum last December. The usual expedition labor pains lasted all spring, but by the end of June we and our gear were through even the labyrinth of Lima red tape ( in time for the start of the dry winter season in the mountains). In company with Senor Juan Ormea and his son, Tomas, our taxidermists and interpreters, we entrucked for· Chiquian. One day's highway passes from the sugar-cane swamps of Para­ monga through -fields where the Lord piled His waste the day after Creation, up over bone-bare ridges 13,000 feet high. Then we dropped down into Shangri-La ... Chiquian Valley with its river, villages, and cornfields, topped by the magnificent, towering Huayhuash. The Hotel Bayer housed us for eleven cents a night while we waited for animals to be assembled. Mean­ while we began taking turns at the intestinal sickness from which we all suf­ fered at various times. Finally our fifteen burros arrived and we began the two-day safari to our base-camp at Jahuakocha. Dusty miles of grueling valley and ridge-trail were relieved by a night's stop at Llamac, whose inebriated townspeople serenaded us with their lyrically Dionysian music. Our "arrieros" told us we had but two hours' ride to Jahuakocha; we arrived there after travel­ ing hard all next day, July 4th. This lake is a bird paradise right in the shadow of the Huayhuash ridge. Here at 1.3,400 feet in occupied cow pasturage we pitched our two pyramidal tents. Project Number One was reconnaissance. We knew that in general we had to follow the route Schneider used in his second attempt ...from the west col up the southwest ridge. The obstacles to reaching this col led Arnold Heim to proclaim Yerupaja one of the world's most inaccessible mountains. We spent our first days scouting in pairs, ruling out the direct approach up the tumbling glacier via Solterahanca Lake, and finding the one passable route up over the rocky north shoulder of Rasac Ridge, via a survey marker left by Hans Kinzl. We hired a local Figaro-Longshoreman named Naptali to mule-pack our high­ camp load a thousand feet up the ridge to a dump. From there we and he back­ packed a few hundred feet higher to Camp 2 in a boulder field at 15,200 feet. Two inches of snow wet the ardor of the three of us occupying this camp the first night, causing Graham to become quite ill. George and I were the only two healthy at this stage; so, cairning the ground behind us, we packed several hundred feet up over the first crest, dropped down, then up a thousand feet over the second half of the Rasac Ridge, and along and down an intricate ledge system which is probably the only possible route down to the Yerupaja Glacier. We pitched Camp 3 at 16,000 feet on a moraine hump a quarter-mile from water. Frequent winds drove great sheets of moraine dirt through our "glacier 15 j meadow." George and I returned to Camp 3, and then picked a route up the moraine, onto the glacier, and up two miles of ice to the col at 18,500 feet. Camping on the glacier entailed avalanche danger ; the col itself was small an

3Jn:fflt mnriam

REDICK McKEE E. W. HARNDEN FRED C. BAYHA

18 Sliding _Middleman Technique In Snow By CAMERON BECKWITH

OMETIMES a different application of old and well-founded principles leads S us into fascinating new .fields. So with the "sliding middleman technique." About a year ago the climbing committee undertook the project of thor­ oughly analyzing our snow-climbing technique. Many of the best and most experienced climbers in The Mountaineers devoted much study to the subject, and one of them, Wolf Bauer, came up with the basic formula for an entirely new method of roped team climbing on snow. Mr. Bauer, a consulting engineer in private life, with years of climbing experience throughout the Northwest and Europe, was particularly well suited to author the idea. During the past spring and summer, the climbing committee held several .field trips which were devoted exclusively to the practice of sliding middleman technique on steep snow. The technique was also practiced on several climbing class field trips where many teams of students simulated actual climbing condi­ tions and went through all possible combinations of falls and arrests. In the light of our practice, the committee has altered and redesigned much of the mechanics of the technique, but the fundamental theory and application have stood up admirably as they were first visualized by Mr. Bauer. Parts of this article are lifted directly from his first draft on the subject. Some Basic Shortcomings of Standard Technique Before we go into the new technique, let us briefly examine some of the basic shortcomings of the present, or "standard," method of roped teamwork on snow. We have long accepted the three-man rope team as the safest minimum-sized unit for glacier travel. Because glacier climbing and snow climbing are so thoroughly intermingled here in the Northwest, we have found it desirable to retain the three-man team for all snow travel as well. We know that dynamic or running belays are far superior to any fixed or static belays, and we use them at all times to protect the leader in difficultice and snow. Consider the technique of a middleman who is tied into the center of 120 feet of rope in the standard method of snow climbing: First of all, he must support his axe. An ice axe under stress will not stand self-supporting in snow like a piton in rock. It should be held with the pick pointing up the slope, it should be held at the proper angle so that the sliding rope will ride down the shaft, it should be held down firmly, and it must not fail ! Simultaneously, the mi:ddleman muse regulate the run of the rope. Ac the moment of impact the rope muse slide and then be braked to a smooth halt by gradual bending about the belayer's boot, bent leg, or back of hips ... depending upon terrain and circumstances. If the rope does not slide, or slides very little, the initial impact is severe ... resulting in a broken shaft or a pulled-out axe ... and the belayer is jerked out to tumble after the falling lead man. If the rope slides too much, the available slack rapidly vanishes and the same fatal results occur. In this analysis we see that the proper dynamic belay on snow is made up of two distinct components ...the or belay point, and the brake or rope control. In the present or standard \ method of roped teamwork, one man must set up and successfully execute both I 19 f I The rope is shown considerably shorter All four pictures in this group ore thon normal for purposes of illustration. Continuous Climbing illustrated head-on to the sloµE;.

LEADER FALLS Team traversing upward and lo the left at time of slip. Middleman has gone into self arrest position and No. J man gradually brakes the foll.

TEAM IN MOTION Extra rope being dragged by No. J man could also be carried coiled.

MIDDLEMAN FALLS NO. 3 MAN FALLS Regardless of their relative positions, Extra rope carried by No. J man in­ the lood is b:>rne equolly by the two sures that the men above him will �nd men who will skid if the imped hove ample time to attain secure ar­ 1s severe. rest positions.

The rope is shown considerably shorter The bottom two pictures of this group show than normal for purposes of illustration. Fixed Positions the slope from the side instead of head-on.

LEADER FALLS Middleman concentrates on sta­ LEADER CLIMBING bility of anchor; No. 3 mon con­ Middleman hos anchored through centrates on rope control. the loop on his connecting rope ond No. J mon pays out slack as leader advances.

MIDDLEMAN FALLS Leader hos token several rope turns around his axe shaft and is securely anchored. No. 3 man is using o run­ ning belay around his boot to help lessen initial impact.

NO. 3 MAN CLIMBING Middleman hos climbed slightly be­ yond his leoderond hos anchored in. Leader tokes in rope while No. 3 man comes up. of these components simultaneously. It follows that either the anchor security or the rope control is sacrificed relative to the other. Furthermore, the above-mentioned dynamic belay can only be used from pre-determined and prepared belay positions when the team is moving one man at a time. In addition, the third or bottom man on the rope is powerless to aid his middleman in any way. His moral support at such a time is pleasant, but quite ineffective against the pull of gravity. The best he can do is set up with the same technique that his teammate has used above him, and hope that in case of a slip the belay above will hold so that he will not have two men on his hands. There is another shortcoming of the standard man-to-man belay technique that is, perhaps, even more insidious than the others. That is the general awk­ wardness and slowness involved. Proper regard to safety factors necessitates one man moving at a time on steep pitches ...especially where there is no run-out. Leads are necessarily restricted, because out of the less than 50 feet of rope available must come enough to set up the belay plus ample margin with which to brake in case of a fall. Such procedure of one man moving at a time with comparatively short leads is sufficiently slow and tedious to cause even experi­ enced climbers to frequently abandon the technique even though they are fully aware of the dangers involved by so doing. Speed and flexibility are closely allied with safety. When pressure of time and desire to reach the objective keep needling a team to stop using man-to-man belays and travel together as :1 unit, they are apt to do so. We have seen it happen many times. Now let us regard standard technique when applied to unprepared belays when the team is moving together as a unit. We know chat the rope should be kept strung out at all times . . . a rule imperative on crevassed glacier and highly desirable on snow slopes where a fall may be arrested before it properly gets started and high initial impacts may be avoided. Yet, in the case of an unexpected fall by the middleman or rear man, the man in front, or both men in front, may be suddenly jerked off their feet, since their backs are turned when the team moves together. Time for anchoring is extremely short, if any is available at all. Realizing this, we consider the self-arrest to be the best all­ around belay to use when the team is traveling together as a unit. The arrest position is very fast to execute, it is not rigid or static in any sense, the axe is free of the rope and once in position it is almost impossible to cause a man to cartwheel or tumble completely out of control. Yet, when traveling with a well-strung:out rope, the falling man's shout and the jerk on the man above him may come together, and time for even a proper arrest may be lacking. So in an attempt to overcome the shortcomings of standard technique listed above, and to increase the speed, flexibility and safety of the three-man team, we come to a different application of well-founded principles in the "Sliding Middleman Technique." Steep Snow T1'avel

The front and rear men tie into the 120-foot rope as usual-the lead man using several wraps of the bowline-on-a-coil. The middleman does not tie into the climbing rope at all, but rather, snaps onto it by means of a safety . In our practice sessions we have used 7/16 " nylon, 25-feet long, for this purpose. In any event, the middleman's connecting rope should be fully as strong as the climbing rope and long enough to allow tieing in with a bowline­ on-a-coil, the free end reaching to the snow where a butterfly knot with small ice axe loop is tied, and thence outward about two feet to where the safety carabiner is spliced into the end. The safety carabiner with threaded sleeve is used to assure constant closure when being dragged over ice and snow. The ice axe loop referred to on the middleman's connecting rope should be tied so that . 21 the knot rests on the snow when the wearer stands erect, and it is the only such knot used by anyone on the team. The middleman uses it only when he is belaying from a prepared position, and forgets it entirely when the team is traveling together as a unit. It should go without saying that the cardinal rule on all steep snow climbing is never to move in a direct fall line, and this technique, as others before it, depends on adherence to this prerequisite. However, if the team is confronted with a situation where it is impossible or clearly unfeasible to traverse at all, such as a bad ice fall, the middleman may be readily locked into fixed position at any point on the rope. He does chis by turning a portion of the main climbing rope two revolutions to form a small loop. The loop is bent over to the main rope again, and a small seaion thereof is pulled up through the loop, forming an "eye" into which the carabiner is snapped. Such fixing of the middleman's position is easy to accomplish and remove, and involves no trouble with wee knots. Two other great differences from standard technique: Usually the best man on the team, and surely the strongest and heaviest man, occupies the middleman position instead of being in the lead. He is, in effect, a traveling piton, moving from point to point where anchoring facilities are best. He is not concerned with rope control, but has one job on which to concentrate-the furnishing of a positive anchor to protect the team. The other difference is chat the No. 3, or lowest, man on the team deliberately carries or drags from ten to fifteen feet of slack at all times; for he is the rope control man on a team where everybody works together as a well integrated unit. He is not concerned with anchoring problems but instead concentrates on one job ...the furnishing of smooth, controlled braking action on the rope in event of a fall by the lead man. The slack he carries insures that he has the rope with which co do it. Using standard technique, it is not feasible for the middleman co attempt to take in slack after the lead man has slipped and is coming cowards him. Where man-to-man belays are being used, the fall is generally quite rapid, and the belay man is clearly in no position to cake up rope with one hand and hold his axe with the ocher. Extensive practice bears chis out. le is better for him co concentrate on the two big jobs he already has. But in the sliding middleman technique the No. 3 man, after he sees the leader fall, can readily gather in rope with great sweeps of each hand . . . gaining yards before the impact comes and letting it pay back out again with increasing tension. The illustrations with this article do not show an even more common method of belaying from fixed positions. That is with the middleman anchoring firmly through his axe loop and both end men moving at the same time. When the No. 3 man gets up close to the middleman, or when the lead man arrives at a good anchor point, both men stop and anchor in with turns of rope about their axe shafts, and the middleman proceeds up along the rope co the lead man where he anchors in as before and the operation is repeated. In this manner a three-man team can travel with approximately the same speed as a two-man team. The ability of the bottom man to properly control the rope is scarcely impaired at all by the fact that he is in motion. The flexibility of the method is apparent. The middleman, with 100 feet of rope open for his movement, has twice the opportunity of finding a good belay point that he has with standard method. Furthermore, he has a much better chance of holding it firmly because of his undivided effort and attention. The lead man, also, has greater freedom of movement, and, if necessary, could go out on a 100-foot lead. le is not our intent here co advocate long leads by the No. 1 man, but rather co point out the extra flexibility which enables him to take chose extra feet when he needs them, instead of crying to dig into a 22 poor posmon or stopping with a very small gain. Excessively long leads are dangerous in any sort of climbing, but part of their hazard is removed by this method where the No. 3 man can take in large quantities of rope after a fall is started. There is a noticeable time lag between the warning shout of a slip and the actual jerk of the rope on the other members of the team. This gives ample time to effect proper belay positions before the impact is felt. Executed properly, the method assures that no one or two-man combination can fall and catch their companion out of position. Perhaps the most dangerous possibility that can confront a rope team is that of the lead man falling and pulling the middleman off with him. The No. 3 man then has two men on his hands. Let us examine the advantages of this method to cope with such an emergency : Due to the sliding feature between falling leader and falling middleman, their relative speeds will vary. The middleman is actually pulled only half as fast as the speed of his falling companion. Due to this slower speed, he is much more able co aid in slowing the fall and help with the final arrest. Furthermore, both falling men cannot strike the end of their rope simultaneously, as is very likely under standard method. The No. 3 man is called upon to arrest but one man at a time. (In practice sessions we found that as soon as the falling lead man was arrested by the No. 3 man and the strain of his fall removed from the middleman, the middle­ man stopped himself before he slid on down onto the lead man. In any event, such a possibility of the two running together at the bottom is of small conse­ quence when compared with the likelihood of the whole rope going.) Glacier Travel

For glacier travel with any kind of method, we deem it advisable for each man to carry three V

HE MOUNTAINEERS have a way of going back co country of exceptional Tbeauty and climbing interest. Though delayed for twenty-three years by transportation problems, economic depression and war, in 1950 we returned co Mc. Robson for our Summer Outing. There were a few differences... chis time the approach was by car instead of train, the party was larger and the menus more luxurious, Robson had receded a little ... but the unchanged rugged loveliness of the terrain again rewarded us for the effort of our trip. Enjoyment of the Outing began for most of us with the drive through the national parks of the Canadian Rockies- Koocenay, Banff, and Jasper. The Committee had provided identification stickers for each car, and we played companionable leap-frog up the long, trough-like mountain valleys. Ac count­ less view points, swimming-pools, campgrounds, resort shops and dining rooms, lvfountaineer met Mountaineer. Some of us looked nostalgically at familiar peaks of the 1944 Outing-Tem­ ple, Eiffel, Aberdeen, 's hanging glaciers. Many had our first view of the magnificient country along the Columbia Icefields highway, surely one of the world's most spectacular routes. We visited the Athabasca glacier, and learned chat an advance guard of our party had just scaled neighboring Athabasca peak. At the tourist information center and soda fountains in Jasper we made our lase preparations for the wilderness. Placarded at the beginning, "Travel at your own risk," the fifty-six miles of single track forest service road beyond Jasper were marked by chuck-holes, blind corners, smothering dust, and occasional startling contacts with the Canadian National railroad cracks. Travel was at a crawl, and few drivers could enjoy the pleasant lake and mountain scenery. Finally we reached the rendezvous at Dennison's ranch where we were co leave our cars. After supper and a short night's sleep, we piled up dunnage for the pack-train, scuffed leftover "necessities" into back packs, and started in the early morning up some sixteen miles of trail co permanent camp. Ac the ranch we began the somewhat awed study of Mt. Robson's cliffs and ridges which was co characterize our next ten days. "Do you chink they can make it ?" was on everyone's lips as we learned chat our first climbing party had started up the south-southwest arece. We did not yet know how easily Robson could turn climbers from its flanks with fog and storm. To city dwellers out of condition and with heavy packs, the trail seemed long, though the scenery offere� great variety, and the weather was perfect. Our trail was easy along the Robson River to Kinney Lake, where the sharp pyramid of Whitehorn came into view. After struggling over a newly-blazed section through the woods above Kinney Lake, we came down into the Valley of a Thousand Falls and the warden's cabin where Maxine Hagen was hostess. The valley is well-named, with many white ribbons of water stretching down its cliffs, some from hanging glaciers which suggested extensive ice-fields out of sight above. To our right, Mt. Robson dominated the sky. The trail in to Berg Lake is intended chiefly for horses, and our Committee had had to improvise foot-bridges across many streams which horses could ford. Throughout the day we bounced on springy poles across rushing water, feeling like amateur tight-rope walkers. 25

"1· I I I BOB AND IRA SPRING SUMMER OUTING • • • LAKE BERG Not far beyond the warden's cabin we began the real climb of the day, up switch-backs in sight of the roaring Emperor Falls. The afternoon was warm, and the trail seemed to stretch out. At the top we gratefully bathed our feet in the icy river before tackling the last miles past Berg Lake. Crossing the delta of East Whitehorn Creek was tedious, as the streams were swollen in the late after­ noon, and we had co hunt for passable fords. Across Berg Lake we saw the amazing ice-fall of the Tumbling Glacier which became our familiar view from camp. The first night we could only be grateful for the creature comforts of our camp-water, wood, and level ground-but next morning we began co appre­ ciate its superb location at a 5400-foot elevation on the meadows beyond Berg Lake. Mt. Robson towered above us in a combination of knife-ridges, sheer ice­ slopes, and crumbling cliffs. The long ice-river of the Robson Glacier ended nearby. We were surrounded by a panorama of lesser peaks, sweeping up from wooded slopes through meadows and scree to glaciers and rock pyramids. We found the Continental Divide at our door, so that a half-mile walk cook us from British Columbia into Alberta, and from a Pacific drainage basin into an Arctic. The Robson area offers great climbing range, and although weather and time defeated us on the two major peaks, and gave varying experiences on the lesser ones, there was good climbing for everyone. Our first interest was, of course, Mt. Robson itself, and the whole camp followed eagerly the luck of the two climbing parties. The first group was turned back by storm before getting well up on the south-southwest arete, the so-called "easy" route. As they came back into camp, plans were underway for the second attempt, by the east ridge used by Conrad Kain on his first ascent. Skies were none too clear as high camp was established near the Helmet, and the climbers had co descend before getting onto the ridge itself. While weather was the determining factor in each failure, the climbers felt that each route promised severe technical difficulties. This was honorable defeat by a formidable foe, unclimbed since 1938. There were many climbs of other peaks, in changeable weather. The Robson Glacier became a highway, as successive parties traversed it enroute to Rearguard, Lynx, and Resplendent. Rearguard, nearest guardian of camp, was a good intro­ duction peak for new climbers, and offered no complications beyond some crevasse-jumping on the glacier. Lynx permitted views of the extensive Reef Icefield co the east when there was any visibility. Resplendent, well-named, was a snow-climb up the at the head of the Robson Glacier. Two parties had disappointing weather for the long day's trip co Resplendent-the last had a good day, and advantage of a well-marked route. Mumm, above camp co the west, offered successively woods, meadows, scree, and snow, with a final short chimney above a 1500-foot drop. Several parties climbed it in varying weather. Smaller numbers made successful climbs of Phil­ lips, Gendarme, Ann Alice, Titkana, and East Whitehorn. The party attempting Whitehorn, considered next to Robson in difficulty, found the old climbing guide vague as to route, and had co turn back because of time before reaching the right approach valley. Many of the trail trips cook advantage of unusual facilities for natural his­ tory study. Almost every camper visited the fossil beds below the snout of Mural Glacier, and many returned with stone records of the ancient, lobster-like trilobite. One group had a day's horseback trip to the lovely alpine meadows at Moose Pass. To judge by the grimaces of dismounting riders, a day in the saddle can be more strenuous than a day climbing. On every promising day, small groups fanned out to lakes, meadows, fishing streams, and picture points. Life in camp proceeded smoothly under the efficient, good-humored direc­ ( tion of Chairman Harry Hagen, his Committee and staff. Despite the problems \ 27 J of pack-train transport, food of astonishing variety and quality kept appearing, perfectly prepared by Nashie, Eva, and Paul. Developing esprit de corps in so large a group seemed an almost impossible task, but the thoughtful planning of the Committee and good-will of the campers accomplished it successfully. The Mountaineers seem always to meet "exceptional" weather on their Canadian outings, and 1950 ran true to form in its supply of rain and chill. Perhaps the weather is always "exceptional" where the great barrier of Mt. Robson blocks the way for moist clouds drifting from the southwest. Individual resources in rain gear were of endless variety, and commissary line chatter thoroughly evaluated the merits of poncho and parka, rubber and well-greased leather. We soon learned to drink our soup as we moved down che serving line, since ic grew cold as poured. A single mishap was rumored from our one frosty night-score teeth frozen co the cup. The 1950 Outing brought many campers from ocher clubs than the Moun­ taineers, people who contributed generously in climbing skill, campfire enter­ tainment and general camaraderie. A trio of easterners came near success on a climb of Rearguard by the difficult ice couloir facing camp. Others were in the Robson parties. At campfire Duncan Macinnes shared with us his experience of an official trip through Russia in 1945; Blanche described her trek the length of Africa; and Phyllida Willis told of the fulfillment of a climbers' dream in her ascent of the Matterhorn. We saw camping gear of new design, and noted chat the most impressive rain clothing was sported by California campers. Our member from farthest away was Marion Simpson, who had come from her home in Glasgow for a year as exchange librarian in Seattle, and whose neat, beribboned braids and cheerful Scots voice brightened camp. The campfire stunts defy reproduction in words, though they cannot be for­ gotten. The juniors did a hilarious radio broadcast take-off under John Hull's direction. Veterans of the first Robson Outing told us in rhymed song of their earlier adventures, while Gavey modeled her 1927 costume of middy and knick­ ers. The easterners illustrated climbing techniques from the early attempts on Mont Blanc, and Sierra Club members sang their comments on trip and camp. One evening our rugged Tacoma men changed character completely, and ap­ peared as delicate Maypole dancers. As the days went by we became familiar with the idiosyncrasies of our fello,v campers. We marveled but did not envy the enormous red pack full of cameras which went everywhere on Ira Spring's back. Gus Hudson produced an unbe­ lievable collection of gadgets, ranging from the boat-horn which furnished our rising call co his famous battery-powered electric razor. Several of the younger climbers took advantage of the ch ance co sprout luxurious beards, of which Ed la Chappelle's perhaps took the prize. Among the sartorial splendors of camp were Morrin Acheson's breakfast costume of turtle-neck sweater and shorts, and Les Jerusha's plaid tam-o-shanter. The Hae Dinner was a highly successful 1950 innovation, and the ingenuity of Mountaineer milliners ranged from Ficchie's mortar-board decked with sup­ plies from the Secretary's box, to Katherine Gallagher's prize-winning arrange­ ment of moose bones. At the Six Peak Dinner service was more formal and che company more select-ordinary climbers watched respectfully as new members were welcomed into the inner circle. Finally we came co our last campfire, and chuckled over the newspaper which Jean Ripley and her staff had edited. After Auld Lang Syne we heard the finest harmony of the Outing, as a double quartet picked out notes by fire­ light. Next morning we struck camp quickly, and with mixed gratitude and regret turned again down the trail. That day the clouds leaked often, and the (Continued on Page 33)

28 Climber's Lullaby,19 50 By HARVEY MANNING

HY do men climb mountains ? "Because they are there," Mallory says, Wsublimely vague. "Because the city is here," is another answer ... the megalopolitan ant-hill with its increasingly louder, more expensive and more frequent explosions, its tinsel automobiles and pastel houses, garish neon and watery and shoddy wool. We all join unions and cry for security and pensions, we all buy insurance and see our dentists and eat vitamins, we vote the straight Vegetable State ticket, and only the very daring even shoot off on the Fourth anymore. And so in these late times, as our history runs down, there is born the Weekender, darkly seeking some sufficient penance for some unknown sin, who can't make it to the Sources of the Nile and is too law-abiding to run up the Jolly Roger, but is nevertheless unwilling to conclude with panem et circens and dull Sunday afternoons. Lord knows what they do in Kansas, but in Washing­ ton a significant portion of the population ... and larger every year ...goes trail-pounding, hill-walking, and peak-bagging. Give a man a pair of Bramanis and a box of Amazo, a straw boater and a few lengths of sling rope, and what more does he need to be an adventurer-king ? A little devil's club and vine maple and rain, and they're cheap and plentiful. The Climbing Course in 1950, under the chairmanship of Victor Josendal, ran with its by now accustomed regularity, two hundred scholars and scores of instructors participating. To handle this number, classes were again split into Tuesday and Wednesday sections, the Monitor Rock, Little Si, and Duwamish Piers practices also expanded to weekend doubleheaders. Despite the many students there was no shortage of snow for practicing; indeed, if the present climatological pattern continues, attendance at the July Hard Snow Practice (held on the Nisqually Glacier this year) will assuredly become compulsory, since not until then is the snow sufficiently compacted and fernified to provide proper conditions for learning. How can the self-arrest be taught when the slush is so soft you have to battle your way downhill ? Com­ monwealth Basin, the night of April 22, was the scene of a blizzard, which provided excellent Slobbovian practice the next morning, but little else. The continuance of winter throughout May forced the second practice, on the slopes of Guye Peak, into June. How can the glaciers possibly recede with such encouragement ? While snow-belaying theory advances, notably with the Sliding Middleman described elsewhere, the already highly-developed modern techniques of rock­ climbing belaying continue to saturate the structure of our teaching. Long gone are the shoulder belay, the knee belay, the ankle, toe and left ear belays which once looked so dramatic in classroom demonstration; now all the talk is of the hip belay, the dynamic belay, and anchors. We do, more than talk, too, for the Duwamish Piers and Tumwater trips have become, as they should be, largely belaying practices. And at last the dynamic belay is available to the common man, the result of some hard work on these two field trips. With mattresses and ropes and all manner of ingenuities a fairly satisfactory substitute for a belaying tower has been rigged at the Piers, and in Tumwater Canyon two excellent overhangs have been excavated from the alder, and partially improved. Ladders to speed the faller's return climb, a few pitons or bolts for safety, 29 ..---

} " �' ... I

it""' , ·-. {l ..:

TOM MILLER, HARVEY MANNING CLIMBERS LULLABY Above, left to right: on Challenger; Lardy at Work; October on the Roman Wall. Below: Cashmere Cragsman; Summit Ridge of Victoria; Bramanls Uber Alles.

30 perhaps a mattress or two, and an afternoon with axe and shovel, will give us two ideal belaying stations, one of which provides a twenty-foot fall and the other a thirty-footer. * * *

The basic aim of the Committee in scheduling Experience Climbs has always been to plan a varied program of good climbs. What is a good climb ? One qualification, and our main problem at present, is to keep the parry small enough to eliminate the features of a barbarian migration, with its attendant danger that an entire rope team may be swallowed up by the wilderness and never missed in the confusion, as well as the misery of endless hours funneling through bottlenecks, and the total destruction of that feeling of solitude which is one of the finer rewards of mountaineering. The strategy of listing more and more climbs, with doubleheaders on big weekends, has been fairly successful the last two years, but not completely; several man-swarms have turned out, fortunately on peaks where the size of the party was little hindrance. As will be discussed later, the accidents this year have made it apparent that further steps must immediately be taken. Another qualilication for a good climb is that it not be a mere hike; now that the View Finders are in operation there is good reason for the Climbers to eliminate walkups from their schedule, especially later in the season when the processes of training and natural selection have raised the caliber of parties. For instance, why shag up the sand gully on Stuart when the west ridge provides 2500 feet of honest granite ? Why climb the dog route on Whitehorse (a shaggy dog in Darrington holds, at last count, three ascents by this route) when the Great Coulouir is so much more interesting ? Why hike up the highway on Chair when the southeast face presents itself so invitingly ? Not to mention the many mountains whose easiest routes require use of the hands. For the last few years at least the expressed policy has been to explore and develop new areas ...new, that is, to official club parties-with progressively less emphasis on the Major Peaks and other trail trips which impress ones rela­ tives but are otherwise hardly worth the trouble. Several climbs this year (Diablo Group, Icy, Boston, etc. ) were into territory never before visited by the Climbers on club trips; several more very worthy climbs were abandoned due to the singular lack of imagination shown by members. The Lucky Four Range and Buck Mountain, in particular, should have stirred a little red blood, and for some reason didn't. On April 30 many beginners made their first summit (not counting Little Si), that noble monarch of the Pass area, Snoqualmie Mountain. Sixty-eight souls completed the climb, an auspicious beginning for the season. The idea of a mass snow-walk and social session to start the year has proven very popular, and seems likely to become an annual affair. Memorial Day was not so happy a weekend. The trouble began with the cancellation of the four day Lucky Four expedition because of lack of interest. The Whitehorse party was diverted to the St. Helens search. The third platoon fought the Brothers to a draw, half of the sixty-six climbers reaching the summit, the other half milling fruitlessly in the fog. June 11 Mother Mountain (a substitute for the Sluiskin Peaks, inac­ cessible due to a washed-out bridge) and Fife's Peak were climbed, or hiked, no one knows why. Mount Baker, on the Fourth ot July, was thoroughly pulped by eighty-eight volcano-lovers. Over the four-day weekend a party of nineteen traveled to the Diablo peaks, a tidy group of pleasant little mountains south of the Dam, easily accessible but practically virgin. A third ascent was made of Snowfield, 8350 feet, and a second of Colonial, 7600 feet. Had it not been for the oppressive heat ( the mosquitoes stayed awake all night) several other short climbs could 31 have been made from the Colonial Glacier, but as has long been recognized, Seattle climbers operate at optimum efficiency only in a slight downpour. Rainier sometimes seems an intolerable burden to the Committee, it being regarded by the majority of beginners as the summum bonum of mountainous uplifts, a great many quitting forever once they've got Beer Hill in the bag. But it must be scheduled, at least until the citizenry learns to enjoy climbing moun­ tains. However, it has been for some time apparent that the size of Rainier parties was becoming too large for safety in case of sudden blizzards. This year, and probably hereafter, two climbs were made on the same day, one by the Kautz and one by the rather unusual Muir-Emmons route, substituted for the Ingraham when that glacier proved impractical for the season. Eighteen reached the top by the former route, thircy-seven by the latter. The Muir-Emmons, involving a traverse over the Cowlitz and Ingraham, and a higher traverse back over the Ingraham and Nisqually, is an interesting tour of a great many glaciers, but innumerable schrunds force detours and make the climb quite long. The following weekend our distinguished vice-president, impeccably attired in a white shirt, tie, slacks and suspenders, strolled up Shuksan accompanied by two dozen friends and admirers. August began with a second attempt, and a second storm, on Spire, while nine of the hardy attended the Climber's Outing in the Northern Pickets. Huckleberry was ascended the second weekend of the month, being followed by the year's most glorious fiasco, Lardy's Adventures iri the Nooksack Cirque. Veterans of Icy Peak ( mark the sweat chat stands forth from their foreheads as the name is uttered) shudder as they whisper of the difficulties attendant on transporting their leader, the Grand Lardy Himself, to the summit of his peak, and then conveying him safely home. The major prob­ lem on Big Four was in travelling up the Scillaguamish. This "road," reserved by our wise state officials as a bulldozer playground, seems to become more impassable through the years, the contractor being reluctant to give up his mudbox to the prosaic uses of automobile travel. Labor Day the wonderland of Cascade Pass, the most scenic alpine area in the state ( and who's at fault that it's not a national park ?), was the scene of activities. Sahale was climbed, the party being able to move up slightly faster than the mountain could fall down, a smaller group going on to Boston, which they report could be utterly destroyed by several swift kicks or a handful of firecrackers. Garfield finally fell to the prolonged, albeit desultory siege, of the Climbers, eleven reaching the top and two adding the neighboring Leaning Tower to their afternoon's entertainment. The Leader has been recommended for a citation in that although his party was successful he managed to avoid climbing the moun­ tain himself. The only criticism that could be made of his feat would be that it involved hitting one man with a boulder and forcing another to jump over a fifty-foot cliff to escape the same boulder. And to end the season Sheepgap and Kaleecan were scheduled, the issue at this writing being in doubt. The accident on Garfield, and the ocher on Sahale, are something for us to think about during the winter. Every season of Experience Climbs recently there have been anywhere from two to six injuries and countless close calls from falling rock, some of chem so nearly fatal as to permanently sober all present. Anyone can see chat unless something is done our luck is going co run out, soon, and our record of no deaths is going to be ended. What to do ? The moun­ tains can hardly be swept and glued, nor will we cease climbing. On Garfield every member of the party was both competent and extremely cautious; no one was to blame ...which is usually the case. Still, a rock came down. For one thing, eighteen were too many on the peak ... and are too many on most rock climbs. We have hesitated in the past to limit signups on climbs, but in the

32 J l· future that ...plus repeated, stern indoctrination ... will probably be necessary. I Every person who has ever gone on an official Mountaineer trip has come home I· alive, something few clubs can claim. If we are to continue this record, climbers will have to become accustomed to not always being allowed on their first choice of club climbs, and the Committee must stand ready to schedule overflow trips at the last minute. Such a system is more complicated, but as long as we value I human life so highly we must expect increasing complications in an increasingly I complex and crowded world. I * * *

RETURN TO MT. ROBSON ... 1950 (Contin11ed from Page 28) last miles of the trail were deep in mud. However, downhill speed brought everyone out early, and after a hurried supper, cars headed toward Jasper again. Everyone claimed to wane to get over the "road" by daylight, but there was some reason to suspect that real beds in Jasper were a powerful lure. The comradeship of the Outing continued as we passed and repassed, met and compared notes, on our way home. Those who had visited Lake Louise on the way up now did Banff, and vice versa. Many of us succumbed to British imports, some soaked in hot spring pools, others looked over the treasures of the Canadian Alpine Club at Banff. At last, tired, brown, rumpled, we rolled back into the States. What impressions were left ? More than can be catalogued here, but above all the picture of that great, thrusting wedge of ice and rock which towered above our camp. "It's a rough country !" Yes, and we love it. * * *

MOUNTAIN SAFETY TIPS ...by Wolf Bauer • When conditions or climbs are out of the ordinary, obtain advice from ottr Climbing Commiffee and official sanction from Park or For­ est Service. • Conditions in all mountain travel are ones of extremes. Provide ade­ quately for temperatures, food, rest, time, weather, first aid, spare parts. • Register in and check out of with Forest or Park officials. Use car window emergency card as precautionary measure to speed aid should yott need it. Leave your plans with someone at home. • Take periodic mountaineering, skiing, and first aidrefres her courses to keep yourself up-to-date and efficient. • Skiing ability is only one of several requirements to be met by the winter mountaineer or ski tripper. Mistakes in equipment omissions and gear condition, or in general planning, are more costly in winter than smnmer. • Yo ur life may depend on your gear and equipment. Check it re­ ligiously before each trip. This is a responsibility to yo11r climbing partners. • Never let pride or false modesty prevent yott from acquainting yottr leader with any weaknesses or physical limitations yott may have that may affect the party strength or party management. Such pride may become criminal negligence. • As leader, your early determination of the weakest member and condition in your party is prerequisite to trip efficiency.

33 1.95 0 in Review ...

THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

What makes The Mountaineers one of the most unusual and envied club of its kind ? I think it is because you have an active, growing membership containing a relatively small group of people who give unstintingly of their time, enthusiasm and talent co suc­ cessfully manage the many varied doings that are listed in your bulletin each month. I doubt if another club exists that offers its members as many opportunities to participate in different activities as does The Mountaineers. However, I don't mean to imply that we should be satisfied. Yo ur club has well over 2000 members made up of each of you. How many have ever served on a committee ? If you have not, when are you going to start becoming a full-fledged Mountaineer ? How many of you have attended a work party ? Yo u who have not are missing an opportunity to become a better Mountaineer. How many of you have spent a night at Stevens, Snoqualmie, Irish Cabin, Meany or Mt. Baker; attended an annual banquet, an old-time dance, a Tacoma fair, an Everett banquet at We yerhaeuser, a trustees' meeting ( all are welcome), a Thanksgiving dinner at Irish Cabin, a play, a summer outing, a monthly meeting, an annual flower walk, a bridge session, and so on ad infinitum; or gone skiing, climbing, local walking or view finding with a Mountaineer group ? If I have mentioned something you have never done, it is heartily recommended that you participate in each, at least once. Better still, pick out an activity and volunteer your services to the committee chairman of that group. Although it may be hard to believe, the best times are had by those Mountaineers who give and not by those who only take. If a few people can give you such a choice of things to do, think how much better it would be if each and every one of you were co help. If you cannot find an interest in The Mountaineers that you can enthusiastically support by working on a committee, then you are unusual. If you are unusual, then start a new activity. Yo urs for a better club, JOSEPH M. BUSWELL

34 1 • The Year in Tacoma

A review of the year's activities in Ta­ since early in the season, some of chem in coma would be lacking without reference areas away from Tacoma's Cabin Peaks. co completion of the Narrows Bridge. Sep­ The Cabin Peaks have not been forgotten tember was the due date--one of vital however, as shown by the increase of stars interest to The Mountaineers in facilitating on the Irish Cabin record. access to many trail areas. Our photographic The Conservation Committee has been chairman, Clarence Garner, has made a active under the abl·e chairmanship of Leo hobby of photographing the bridge in all Gallagher who has added prestige by stages of construction and from all vantage virtue of having been President of the points, having been given. the freedom ?f Western Federation of Outdoor Clubs. He the bridge by virtue of being an expert m has written l'etters of protest to United his own right. He is well qualified to States Congressmen directly connected with lecture on the bridge. Olympic National Park, Glacier ational Featured at our photographic meetings Park, Grand Teton ational Park and were scenic views by Mountaineer Bogdon ochers against attempts at encroachments of Enumclaw; colored moving pictures of on timber and wild life and National Park Quetico Superior Park, Minnesota; and Mc. values in general. McKinley National Park by Ranger Oscar Arbor Day was commemorared by the Dick now stationed at Rainier National committee planting five hundred Douglas Park. fir and Pore Orford cedar in the forest wil­ Irish Cabin, as always, played a large derness area of Pt. Defiance Park, needed part in the year's program. Under the able to renew the forest cycle of life. The com­ management of Earl Gjuka and Alice mittee hopes to make it an annual affair. Bond, many improvements were made to The writer, having made a hobby of Pt. the building, including a gleaming new Defiance big trees, was much chagrined at kitchen. Our cabin served as a base for being unable to cake part in the planting winter alpine spores. Our old non-winter du·e to unhealed injuries from an auco acciviry group displayed a tendency for accident. snow shoes. Our "snow bunnies'' and our On the occasion of The Mountaineers' better skiers have developed an ever-increas­ Beach Fire at the Leo Gallagher's summer ing enthusiasm for ski hills. And all of us home near Rosedale in July, the committee have been initiated into the skiers' frater­ was taken to All'en's Point on Henderson niry. We've seen snow falling on virgin Bay near Rosedale, which is a prospective slopes; breached the keen cold air of winter State Park. Favorable progress has been morns; put chains on our cars; and found made by Leo with the proper state officials comrades in the high adventure of skiing and owners of the 160-acre tract. The com­ from Mt. Hood to Mt. Baker. mittee was much impressed with the charm­ The extensive planning and scouring ing location. work for Trail Trips done by Keith Good­ Tom Dodges' New Year's Special Out­ man ·deserves special mention, and is re­ ing at Alexander's-by-the-Sea at Ocean Ciry sponsible for their never-failing attraction again this year was another fin·e outing. and . success. From seashore to mountain Irene Slade provided several fine musical top, Tacoma Trail Trippers traveled over evenings. Our sincere appreciation for a ten counties to se·e an island upon an very fine year under the management of island; a few raindrops where it isn't sup­ our President, Floyd Raver, and Secretary­ posed co rain; "dud" bombs and a diving Treasurer Ann Jackson. submarine being bombed by a plane in -C. E. HEATON mock warfare. They visited two light­ • houses; tramped through a rock quarry; toured the prairies three rimes and hiked Ta coma Clubtoom Programs the length of cwo of the three largest Regular monthly meetings of the Tacoma sandspics in the state. Two of the places Mountaineers Branch offered a great vari­ vis iced are subjects of recent books: Port ery of entertainment, hoping to interest Gamble {"Tide, Time and Timber" ) and new and present members. ovember saw Mt. Pikhuck ( "Pikhuck" ). Dungeness Spic us transported by air to Central and South attracted the record crowd of the year, 59 American pores by means of Roger Chase's hikers, the violet walk excepted. unique travelogue and colored slides; early This year's climbing course, for both che ships that plied Puget Sound and the antics elementary and intermediate students, was of their skippers were brought vividly to well attended by The Mountaineers and us by Keith Goodman; "Tomorrow's For· chose interested in mountaineering. Lee · ·est" and "Green Harvest" made an inter­ cures, demonstrations, slides and movies esting evening, as presented by representa­ on making climbing a saf'e, enjoyable sport tives of the Weyerhaeuser Timber Com­ were presented by competent instructors. pany; while in May, we contemplared the Our field trips on snow, rock, and ice were pleasures of joining the Summer Outing in hampered on some occasions by weather the Mc. Robson area in Canada. conditions, but each person participating For variery's sake, the club arranged the felt more sure of himself in rugged terrain Christmas Parry, with games, songs, gifts afterwards. Small groups, showing initia­ and all the crimmin's; and the St. Patrick's tive and leadership, have been climbing Day Hoe-Down. A wonderful crowd turned 35 our for the square dances, which were This latter is a joint committee with rwo called by our own members, Jean Scott, chairmen and rwo functions : house and Alice Bond and Mary Sr. John. activities. The House Committee planned This year we asked rhe men ro serve and outlined necessary repairs, collected refreshments ar rhe meetings; the food was materials and machin·ery, and directed work delicious as prepared by Amos Hand, parties. Two years' supply of srove and Bruce Kizer, Dick Scott and Dave . fireplace wood was cur. Cement founda-. Refreshments served by rhe women were tions for the old building were placed in the backbone of sociability. another session. The women brought pot During rhe summ·er, six beach fires were luck ro feed the heavy laborers, cleaned enjoyed, at New Beach, Point Defiance closets, the stove, the floors and accom­ Park; the Tom Dodge's home; the Leo plished ocher jobs chat show little bur mean Gallagher's Rosedale beach home; Clara much. Young's home, at which rime her brand­ Alice Bond, co-chairman, planned the new outdoor srove was initiated; rhe Fred monthly activities of Irish Cabin this past Corbie's Sunset Beach home; and the Ta­ year. The season opened early in March, coma Mountaineer Fair in the lovely yard with everyone arriving the night previous of the Elwood Budils. in preparation for an early-morning start­ Two cruises on Puget Sound aboard the objective: Mowich Lake on skiis or snow­ yacht, Gallant Lady II, on July 6th and shoes. Sixteen of rhe Starting thirty-five August 16th, brought out record attend­ made ir. April saw the beginning of the ance of members and their friends. Ac the monthly climbing parties. A taffy pull, September meeting we held our annual featuring Wilmot Ramsey, preceded rhe election of officers and viewed the Summer next day's attempt at Baldy Peak. Thar Outing pictures. Ocrober was our annual rime the Carbon River, all crossings washed banquet. Thanks, everybody, for taking out during the winter, provided an obstacle part ! -STELLA KELLOGG roo great ro conqtfer. The climbers struggled • with devil's club and fallen timber in a Irish Cabin vain attempt to gain the trail in time co make the climb. So it goes-fun and exer­ Irish Cabin is essentially a climbers' cise anyhow ! By July the rangers had rendezvous, with its busiest season during thrown new foot bridges across the Carbon the summer. But it is also a vital in and a party of thirce·en made Pilcher. Ann the lives of all The Mountaineers, for it's Jackson waited patiently co sign the regis­ available all through the year for parties of ter last: the thirteenth person and her thir­ four or more. Formerly the home of a pio­ teenth peak I Several climbers stayed over neer miner, the original building, still in the remaining days of the Fourth holiday good condition, is used as dining room and co conquer ocher peaks. connects with the huge recreational room with its ever-blazing fireplace. The kitchen In all there are twenty-four good peaks accessible from Irish Cabin. Valley-pounders was completely redone and modernized in the Fall of 1949 in time for the annual and campers also find it an ideal base for Irish Cabin Thanksgiving Dinner. trail trips or just plain vacations. Ir can he a fishennan's paradise, too, or a loafer's The casualness and informality of Irish Cabin is, naturally and paradoxically, bas·ed heaven. Irish Cabin is what you make ir. on hard work and systematic planning. -EUGENE AND BETTY FAURE

The Ye ar 1n Everett

Nature outdid herself in providing a trip to Deception Pass where members of colorful and picturesque setting along rhe the party enjoyed walking rhe beach in a banks of the Srillaguamish River for the storm. Spring and summer trail trips and Annual Salmon Roast which Started the camp-outs included Mr. Pilchuck, Barclay year's activities in Everett. More than a Lake and Goar Mountain Lookout in rhe hundred members and guests were served Mt. Baker area. Snow Lake in rhe Sno­ salmon, roasting ears and coffee. qualmie area proved most popular for a One ·of the most enjoyable fall hikes was day trip and many were the requests for a ro Copper Lake at the foot of Vesper Peak repeat trip. in rhe Sultan Basin area. The beauty of the The Annual Thanksgiving Dinn·er and lake and surrounding mountains made the program held early in December was very trip very worthwhile, although the trail was successful. The illustrated talk by Nels in poor condition. Many samples of rock Bruserh, member of the National Forest were carried out by the rock enthusiasts. Service at Darrington, added greatly to rhe Later in October, cranberries for the holi­ enjoyment of his audience. Table decora­ day season were gathered in the bogs near tions of sculptured fruit and vegetables Stanwood. This year the Annual Greens caused much comment on the arrisric ability Walk, held just before Christmas, took the and ingenuity of the committee members. group to a new area near Lake McMurray. During the winter months day-ski-trips Many greens were gathered to be used in were organized nearly every Sunday and home decoration. In February there was a were well attended. There were work par- 36 'r 1. I ties at Snoqualmie Pass, card parties and Labor Day weekend was spent on the pot luck dinners. Outstanding parry was the Olympic Peninsula. A trail trip co Boulder week-end at Happy Annen's cabin near Lake on Sunday and car trips co Olympic Warm Beach with Phil Brandner, Super­ Hoc Spring, Crescent Lake, Hurricane Ridge visor at Mc. Baker National Forest, and and Deer Park gave che participants many his wife as our honor guests. Dancing and thrills and awe-inspiring views of the scory-celling were the diversions of the Olympics, che Sound and che Cascade Range evening with a walk on the beach scheduled in the distance. All members of the parry for Sunday. Our Liars' Contest, in which are planning co return co chis scenic area everyone panicipared, proved chat it is nor which affords so many good climbs and wise co believe all chat one hears. trail trips. Many spring and early summer climbs Although our climbing program was were postponed or cancelled becaus·e of somewliac curcail"ed, our ocher accivicies bad weather, road and snow conditions. were varied and provided many good times Unscheduled substitute trips included camp­ and shared experiences. On many of our oucs in the Skagit area, on the Icicle River trips we had guests who appreciated rhe and at Salmon Le Sac where trail trips were opporcuniry co see some of the scenic taken. Climbs of Mc. Pugh, Spire, Index beauties of chis region and who gained a and Bedal were made during the summer. better understanding of mountaineering Mr. Pugh was climbed in che moonlight in through their association with che Moun­ August with all che climbers agreeing chat taineers. it was a wonderful experience. -ADELSA DOPH and VI JOHNSON

Third Annual Northwest Mountaineering Conference The third Mountaineering Conference, Preston, Superintendent of che Park, wel­ sponsored by the Mountain Rescue and coming the Conference, and Commander Safety Council, was held at Paradise, Mc. Suydam and Commander FinJ·ey, Retired, Rainier acional Park being hose. Due co explaining the functioning of Coast Guard, the emphasis on radio and ground com­ communication systems, and search opera­ munication phases of search and rescue, tions. Mr. L. Stoner showed how co handle a large representation of both Forest and pigeons and introduced us co the possi­ Park Service officials was evident. bilities of employing pigeons, their capa­ Perfect weather again prevailed durin� bilities and limitations in mountainous the cwo-day conclave, September 9 and 10, terrain, and offered rhe Council the use of flying and snow conditions boch being un­ this medium in any future emergencies. Dr. usually favorable for the maneuvers and Oreo Trott presented a highly informative d�monscracions on the ground and in the lecture on alpine survival and air. factors, as well as illustrated first aid tech­ Saturday's program included lecture and niques. Cam Beckwith spoke on snow­ demonstrations by J rving Herrigscad on climbing belays and showed sequence slides ground signals and che topographic limita­ of rhe sliding middleman technique. tions of various radio frequencies in the Sunday morning·s program included some field, showing how the effici"ency of high very interesting exhibits and demonstrations frequency sers are reduced by natural bar­ on rock and snow of various alpine litters riers, such as ridges and trees, and how for winter and summer use, such as rhe such signals are modified by reflection and Bavarian "Bergcrage," built by rhe Alpinees echo conditions. The Coast Guard d·emon­ of Hood River, the "Akja" snowboac, built scraced its loudspeaker plane-co-ground sys­ by Wally Burr, and rhe collapsible alpine tem by flying a PBY over the search area, model with wheel and ski, built che locating and acknowledging che by Jack Hossack and Wolf Bauer. The various ground signals as to their effective­ Mountaineers demonscraced che sliding mid­ ness. A pin-point parachute drop was made. dleman snow-climbing technique, while The conferees learned that the use of a Gordon Patterson and K. Molenaar showed roll of toiler tissue rolled out on grass and simulated crevasse rescu·e hoisting methods. held down with rocks made mosr effective In resting and showing the ease of trans­ letter signs for air obs·ervarions. Snow porting persons with rhese new type alpine trenches and mirrors also were quickly litters, ir may be of interest char Mr. spotted, while ocher signals were Jess effec­ Elkan, eighry-cwo-year-old father of Dr. tive. The maneuvers showed up che possi­ Oreo Trott, was taken up and down everal bility of giving encouragement and infor­ miles of rough rrail and also snow terrain mation co lose parries by loudspeaker from co make possible his viewing of rhe the air, and after locating such parries, demonstrations. communicating by loudspeaker questions After a final meal co cop all previous and ground signal replies without radio. fine culinary efforcs by Mr. Popinoff, Ralph Mr. Fuge of che Seattle Weather Bureau Wiese outlined s·earch organization pro­ also led a discussion on weather factors in cedure and Mr. ]. Simmons of the Oregon che mountains. Mountain Emergency Committee gave a Saturday evening was made up of a full brief description of che workings of his program of talks and illustrations, John group. Joinr cooperation was stress·ed be- 37 tween Washington and Oregon groups. working on several operations manuals for The Council Chairman indicated chat the alpin·e radio communication and emergency Washington Scace Aeronautics Commission signals. Mimeographed copies of the first may next year receive appropriations upon of these were distributed at rhe Conference. which the Council may be able to draw Ochers will follow when printing or funds indirectly to further its Mountain Safety become available. The Conference was also campaign, as well as equipment and gen· shown the car window emergency cards eral expenses. Irving Herrigsrad has been which the Council printed this year. -WOLF BAUER

The Players Score with "If I Were King"

If I were King-Ah love! If I were King Jf/ hat tributary nations would I bring, Beneath your feet what treasures would I fling­ If I were King.

Dame Fortune, Lady Luck, several four· for rehearsal brings rain for production" leaf clovers and liberal amounts of Moun­ was one old-rimer's reminder. Only too raine·er elbow-grease all reamed up to score well rhe case remembered how Sleeping a memorable success as the Players pre­ Beaury had slept for one hundred years in sented Justin McCarthy's famous medieval a thunder shower only rwo seasons previous. adventure, "If I Were King," as the rwen· Could the season-long sering of good breaks ry-fourrh Mountaineers Players' production continue unbroken ? at the Forest Theater on June 4th and Early in the we-ek before the first show June 11th. the weatherman promised a sunny Sunday. Fortune smiled early on the many players bur the entire case remained war)'· June's who portrayed the lusty villians, swash· fickle weather always makes the forecasters buckling heroes and beautiful damsels of look bad, so each player reached for the chis brilliantly-writren drama of the times hidden rabbit's foot. The weatherman ful­ of King Louis XI. A big slice of luck filled his promise, however, and the big arrived when Mrs. Lois Sandall said "yes" crowd chat turned out for the first produc­ to the request of Chairman Burbank Ride­ tion was rewarded with a skillful and out and the players' committee chat she colorfu I effortam idsc the sunshin'e and sha­ again direct the Spring Play. With the dows of the incomparable Forest Theater. same enthusiasm and skill that marked her "Rain forecast for Sunday" was the word work on cwenry-one previous Mountaineer during the following week as the cast productions, Mrs. Sandall �rganized the smoothed our the rough spots with final rehearsals and the cast settled down ro rehearsals. However, Dame Fortune pitched twice-a-week rehearsals. in and lo ! the weatherman changed his As if chis stroke of good fortune were mind. So, on June 11th, beneath flawless not enough, the players, for the first rime blue skies, an overflow crowd sac enthralled in many a season, were blessed with an as the case delivered a memorable perform­ ample supply of hon·esr-ro-goodness M-E-N. ance, one that marked "If I Were King" No longer was there need to disguise our as one of the outstanding productions of valiant girls behind heavy beards and try the long Forest Theater history. to reach them to walk and talk like medi­ Lady Luck and her crew of charmers eval heavyweights I With an ample supply played their parts well. bur in no ways of talenred man-and-woman power avail­ better than the oversized group of players, able, aspiring newcomers as well as hoary carpenters, prompters and the many ochers veterans, 1',frCarthy's long-dormant char· who lent willing hands ro put over the acters of the fifteenth century breached new big show. life. Four-leaf clovers se·emed co abound every· With a peppy banquet at Scandia the where as many willing hands pitched in to players and friends rang down the Jina! work at the many back-stage jobs char are curtain on the 1950 season. No sooner all parts of a successful production. Cos­ had the handshakes of congratulations made tumes were ordered (many had to be the rounds than plans were scarred for the hand-sewn), tickets and proJ?;rams were silver anniversary show of 1951. printed, theater props were skerched and With artistic skill and plain bard work constructed. The publiciry sraff bad a the players of today are maintaining the horseshoe tossed in irs lap when the traditions starred by char hardy band of Seattle Times gave the :Mountaineers a "Robin Hood" so many years ago. 'Tis lavish full-page Sunday spread on the very quoted chat good work brings _good for. day of rhe first showing ! rune, and, if such is true, Lady Luck will Beneath cloudless skies the big cast held continue co save her broadest smiles for its costume rehearsal at rhe Forest Theater the efforts of ch·e Mountaineer Players ! -and then everyone held his breath. "Sun -BOB NEUPERT

38 r- 1' I I1 • '. Climbing Notes Climbef's Outing Cascades requires several days to reach, and even with nine days littl'e rime is left The 1950 Climber's Outing, fifth in the for climbing; perhaps we should, for a series was held in the Northern Pickets, change, have an outing in some more a ra;ely-visted group of highly-glaciated accessible area where the energy may be precipitous peaks. Nine climbers con�ti­ exp·ended in actual climbing. As a moun­ tuted the expedition, thus nearly doubling taineering exploration, however, the Out­ the number of persons who have reached ing was a memorable experience-no one the area, previous crave! having been by will ever regret having hiked in the three Mountaineer and two Ptarmigan Pickets and lived for some days intimately parties. This negJ·ect is nm easy to under­ amid its ice and rock. stand, since the peaks are the dominating -HARVEY MANNING feature of the view east from Shuksan, the climbing varies from easy to intersting, and • access is not difficult, eighteen miles of Chilliwack Reconnaissance good trail leading up Ruth Creek to Han­ A reconnaissance trip to the remote high negan Pass, down the Chilliwack and up country southwest of Chilliwack Lake, Brush Creek to Whatcom Pass at the British Columbia, was made during the northern limit of the range. The Chilliwack weekend of September 9-10 by Ralph Wid­ trail is maintained by the Forest Service, rig, Joe Hieb, Pete Schoening, and Fred and travel over Whatcom Pass is, as of Beckey, to explore climbing possibilities. now, convenient, thanks to the efforts of a The party traveled to Chilliwack Lake by USGS crew which this summer surveyed a airplane, and climbed 7700-foot Mille line from 'Lake to Ruth Creek, and Peak, n·ear the international boundary. rebuilt the trail up the Little Beaver and down Brush Creek in the process. From • Whatcom Pass the way lies over heather We st Peak of Johannesburg and rock, then snowfields and glacier, to the Challenger Glacier and Perfect Pass, a Fourth of July weekend, 1949, a parry beautiful basecamp for the northern half consisting of Bill Elfendahl, Dave Lind, of the group. The southern half is reached Jay Todd, and Tom Miller made the first via the headwaters of Luna Creek, involv­ ascent of the Wesr Peak of Johannesburg, ing a rough descent from the Challenger climbing from the Cascade River at Gil­ Glacier to the ice-wrecked basin, then bert. The climb, up brush, heather, steep climbing again to Luna Lake. The scenery, snow and rock, is not difficult but quite unique in the state . . . such as the 4000- long. Lack of time prevented the parry foot glacier-gouged avalanche-roaring head­ from continuing to the main peak, but a wall of Luna Creek, the three-mile-broad high bivouac would make this easily pos­ gleaming expanse of the great Challenger sible. • Glacier, and the near view of the even more serrare Southern Pickets ...by itself Challenge1' and Redoubt justifies the exertion. In August, 1949, Peter Misch and Ker­ Little climbing was accomplished, for mit Bengsston, while making a geological which may be blamed mountain lassitude reconnaissance in the area of Whatcom induced by many days of hauling heavy Pass, made the fourth ascent of Challenger packs, and an untimely end to good weather in the Northern Pickets. Redoubt, 9055, . . . namely a short but bitter blizzard in the Chilliwack Group, was also climbed which drove the parry to more temperate from the Pass, though this was a very long latitudes a day earlier than the original trip over meadowed ridges and final easy nine days planned. More time or less snow. An interm·ediate bivouac would make voluptuous longing for sleep is necessary to the climb more pleasant. climb extensively in this land of high peaks • and deep vall'eys, great glaciers and mad­ dening . Whatcom Peak, 7700 Index TravefSe feet, an easy snow ascent from Perfect Pass, During the summer of 1950 a three-peak was climbed for the fifth time. Luna Peak. traverse of Mt. Index was completed, ap­ 8500 feet of snow and shattered gn·eiss: parently for the first time. The regular made a long hike ( the fourth ) from a route may be followed up the orth Peak, camp below the Challenger, high on the and from this point the new route leads side of Luna Creek. Fury, the one that p,ot down to a gendarme on the south side. away, was scheduled but lost by mailaiS'e The col berween the North and Middle and the blizzard. Peaks may then be reached via a descend­ Challenger, 8400 feet. was the only tech­ ing traverse on the west face. From this nical ascent of the week. and the peak to col it is necessary to climb 150 feet to a remember. The overhanging upper wall of ridge leading to the false summit of the a great schrund, requiring a good lead to Middle Peak. On this section pitons should ascend and a rappel to descend. was the most be used for safety. After the false summit interesting moment of the day. A short, is reached, a 100-foot descent and an easy steep rock pitch led to the summit, a fifth scramble lead to the true Middle Peak, a ascent, and a glorious view. probable first ascent. An adequate over­ As a Climber's Outing the trip was dis- night bivouac sire can be found about 200 appointing, but any area in the orthern feet down the east face. Leaving the 39 TOM MILLER, BECKY-SHARPE, D. WATSON Left, upper: Forbidden Peak from Johannesburg. Center: Boston and Sahole Peaks from Johannesburg. Lower: Bonanza. Right, upper: Flag Pole from the Northwest. Lower: Mount Index. •. f . I I bivouac, the col between the Middle and Spickard. The approach to the peak by Main Peaks is reached via a passage on automobil'e over Stephens Pass and up the the east face. Working out of the col Columbia, by boar on Lake Chelan, bus up I· pitons are again necessary for safety. It Railroad Creek co che mining town of is then possible co reach the northwest , followed by a five-mile hike to corner of the Main Peak by climbing mod­ Holden Lake is very enjoyable. The climb erately difficult rock. is made up a crevassed glaci'er and class • 3 rock to che summit. Early in the year sceep snow makes the climb somewhat Crags ueacherous, but lacer in the year the snow Many good first ascents were made _chis melcs off che face and che climb is safe year in the Cashmere Crags on the ndge and easy, though fairly long. and slope north of Ingalls Creek. Both the Knitting Ne·edle Group and the Nighanare • Needle Group were quite thoroughly Middle "feak climbed. They were all short climbs on excellent granite and usually quite difficult. Memorial Day 1950 Pete Schoening, Wes Average el'evation is between 7000 feet and Grande and Dick Widrig hiked up Early 7500. Of these the Flagpole (west of Mc­ Winters Creek to Washington Pass, under lellan) was the outstanding example. The the granite walls of Liberty Bell. Crossing first ascent was made by F. Beckey, P. th'e pass and circling to che west, two snow Schoening, and P. Sharpe on July 16. The coulouirs presented themselves, one leading climb required ten boles, several pitons, to the summit ridge on ·either side of the and many hours. objective, the unclimbed Middle Peak. Per­ oendicular, holdless walls barred progress up • the northerly coulouir, but the ocher alter­ First Ascent of Little Snowpatch, native went easily until halfway up, where Windjammef and Westwind a large chockstone was surmounted by a shoulder stand leading into the narrow, Litcle Snowpatch, a prominent granite verglas-coated chimney between the boulder tower in the Ingall's Creek area, was and che wall. Larer in che year, when che climbed June 25th by Pete Scho·en ing, Fred snow is gone, the chockstone may prove Beckey and Joe Hieb. Climbing ranged in insurmountable without direct aid. Above difficulty from 4th to 6th class. The middle here a small down-slanting l'edge Jed to portion of the route consisted of a near another chimney where che complete vertical open trough, at the bottom of lack of holds required the use of tennis which was found a crack to hold several shoes even though che verglas continued. direct aid pitons. A 4th class lead then Three hours were consumed from the chock­ brought us to the unusual top. stone to the top of the chimney. A short Windjammer and Wesrwind Spires, just snow climb brought che party to the ridge, north of Little Snowpatch, were climbed by where it was mer by an icy wind. Fortu­ Beckey and Schoening. Both spires pre­ nately ...since Pete's toes were growing sented inreresting climbing. Fortunately, the numb due to kicking snowsteps wich open­ climbers had with chem two large over­ toed tennis shoes ...a series of ·easy chim­ sized angle pitons which they said were nies led to the summit. Two rappels. one che only thing which made the ascent of from a Rawl-drive above the chock­ Westwind Spire possible. The cracks ·en­ stone, made the descent rapid, and che base countered on che rock were of a very wide of the coulouir was reached six hours after nature. • first entering it . Cascade Peak • Cascade Peak, 7 500 feet. is an interesting Glacier Bay rock peak in che Cascade Pass area, dwarfed A party including Kermie Bengston spent somewhat by che mass of Johannesburg on the summer of 1950 making a geological one side and the Triplets on the other. The survey in che area of Glacier Bay, Alaska, first ascent was made the laccer part of many short climbs beine; accomplished in July, chis year, by Phil Sharpe, Pete the process. These peaks, ranging up to Scho·en ing, and Fred Beckey. The route 4000 feet. rise from water's edge, the led up over che frozen neve of a rhree­ climbine; beine; on and some rock. A chousand-fooc coulouir to a wide berg­ probably easier route than che one climbed schrund which was passed by lifting one up Fairweather, the dominant mass, was member of the parry over the uoper lip. seen bur more serious business prevented Ac the pronounced col live hundred feet an attempt. below the summit they changed ro tennis • shoes and ascencled che downslab south face to rhe top. The rock is rotten and a Selkirks more feasible aporoach is on rhe south Two parties from Seaccle visired the Sel­ side via the Magic-Hurry Up Col. kirk Rane;e in Canada this summer. both ascendinReynolds climbed chis a half, are probably rhe mosr pleasant difficult peak by rhe Bedayan route on rh·e climbing area on rhe continent, ar least for Labor Day weekend. rhose who enjoy a combination of forests, Ir is expected rhar much more climbing meadows, large glaciers, and solid, mod­ will be done in rhis oursranding area next erately difficult rock. Ir is therefore some­ year. what amazing rhar, including three club -VICTOR JOSENDAHL outings, less rhan ren groups of Searrle • climbers have been in rhe Selkirks. • Climber's Nightmare Thirty-four weary miles up Screaming We st Peak of Three Queens Panther Creek, Wilford, Josephine and Three and one-half forest miles north­ Algernon came upon one of rhe mosr mon­ west of rhe northern trip of Lirrle Kachess strous oddities ever seen in a cocaine night­ Lake are rhe ridge rowers rhar make up the mare, let alone in the mountains. Balanced Three Queens Mountain (also Mineral precariously atop a blood-red granodiorire Moun rain). The only previously unclimbed cone swayed a flawlessly perfect glass-smooth rower of rhe group was rhe Wesr Peak, so obsidian sphere; glittering ominously under in rhe middle of August, 1950, Don Wilde, rhe leaden clouds it seemed cloaked in evil Phil Sharpe and Pere Schoening scrambled porrenr. This apparent filled ro rhe easr col of rhe 2 50-foor rock pin­ us wirh awe, and all rhoughrs of approach­ nacle ro change into tennis shoes and rope ing closer were abandoned until nightfall, up. Our route was rhen up rhe sourh face, when in rhe flickering starlight it assumed wirh rhe use of three pirons and a couple a less savage aspect. Ar rhis point rhe un­ of srurdy rree belays. Though rhis roure ro initiated would have become dizzy, and rhe summit was nor extremely difficult, a might have used such rerms as "impossible" route from rhe col on rhe west side of rhe and "foolhardy." We counted our expan­ rower appeared easier and probably safer. sion bolrs, bedecked ourselves with iron. and nervously snapping our we • hesitantly crept forward. Algernon had rhe Cascade Pass Climbs crossbow ar ready and upon signal from The mountain summits in rhe Cascade Josephin·e gor offrhe first round. Two thou­ Pass area are now accessible for weekend sand feet of codline peeled from rhe maga­ climbing. The road up rhe Cascade River zine ere the arrow glanced from rhe vitreous has been extended so rhar a 138 mile auto­ surface and impaled Wilford from groin to mobile trip from Seattle followed by a 3 clavical. Our only arrow was thus damaged mile hike on a recently cleared rrail brings beyond repair, so we resolved to force a rhe climber ro a good high camp ar Cascade direct roure. A quick series of courre Pass, elevarion 5 392 feer. From rhe alpine echelles, anchored ro Rawl drives, brought meadows of rhe pass, massive Johannesburg, us ro rhe base of rhe support cone. Rapid!y wirh- irs hanging glaciers, dominates rhe passing a line around its precipitous sides, view ro rhe sourhwesr. Eastward from Jo­ we cinched rhe rope right, climbed upon ir, hannesburg, Cascade Peak, rhe Triplets, ried another line higher srill, and so, srep Hurry Up, and Magic can be seen. Trapper by srep, mounted fu rrher into rhe night. and Mixup are also good climbs sourh of Dawn found us clinging to rhe minute rug­ rhe pass. The Horseshoe Basin peaks: Sa­ osities of a thin film of verglas directly , Bosron, Buckner, and Booker lie north below the gleaming underbelly of the of rhe pass. During rhe last week of Au­ sphere. The only roughness on rhe mirror­ gust, an ambitious Mazama parry including like finish above us was rhe ice particles Don Woods and Fred Ayres climbed six of from our frosty breath. From here on, bolrs the peaks mentioned above from a single alone could force a passage. Josephine high camp ar rhe Pass. They reported Jo­ braved the first lead with rwo-rope tension. hannesburg was their best climb ( a third Due to rhe exrreme hardness of the sphert, ascent). fourteen drills were dulled in sinking rhe first hole. These were passed down to WiJ. Many of rhe peaks have been climbed ford. who wirh ebbing srrengrh filed rhem only four or five rimes. The first ascent of sharp and passed rhem back. Here rhe un­ Cascade Peak was made in July of this year initiated would have b·ecome dizzy and by Fred Beckey, Pere Schoening and Phil might have used such terms as "impossible" Sharpe. and "foolhardy." Thirty-four bolts later we Unforrunarely much of rhe rock is rotten. crossed the ·equator of rhe sphere, only to However, there are rwo oursranding climbs gaz·e up into an ominously churning sky. on good rock: Forbidden peak, rwo miles Though rhe climbing was now easier, snow, west of rhe pass and Mr. Goode, eight miles sleet, rain, and hail tore ar us wirh icy fin­ easr. Forbidden Peak can best be climbed gers while lightning threaded irs way down from a high camp up rhe Bosron Mine our line of bolts. Here we spent a day Trail. This great rock pyramid has been lashed ro rhe iron, while rhe constant ex­ climbed six rimes by the wesr ridge, by rhe plosions of thunder rendered us p·eriodicaJly east ridge with a traverse ro rhe upper senseless. Once again the uninitiated would norrh ridge, and by the south face as de­ have become dizzy. At lasr rhe tempest scribed elsewhere. slacken·ed and sheer dererminarion carried With rhe extension of rhe Cascade river us ro rhe summit. We were borh agreed ir road, Goode can now be approached from had been a memorable adventure ...an ex­ rhe wesr, with the high camp a one-day periment in pure sensation ! 42 r

Trail Trips from Seattle 1 • The Trail Trip contingent began its ac· climb, for ice axes and nailed boots came; civities by unwillingly succumbing to the in handy co chose who had them. Glissad· elements and letting rhe snow fall on Gran­ ing on the way down was a treat not ofren ite Peak unmolested by our cracks. found on a Trail Trip, and with a line of Bur never say die ! and rhe first week in husky felJows at the bottom to catch anyone February found us ignoring rhe icy roads who might forget co stop, who need worry on Vashon Island while we went on a trop­ if he didn't have an ice axe ? Clouds hin­ ical tour of Beall's extensive orchid green­ dered views of and Sr. Helens but houses. In spice of che overcast sky, color Rainier with a cloud cap was clos·e ar hand. cameras were busy recording the many va­ Deep snow on Mr. Pilchuck prevented rieties of orchids char were in bloom. An the scheduled trip co Pinnacle Lake earli• evening ger-rogerher a month lacer to com­ in July, bur Lake Twenty-rwo was an en­ pare colored slides found everyone amazed joyable substitute. No one objected to the char he still knew rhe difference berween a easy hike ro rhe lake, there co bask in the carrleya and a dendrobium. warm sun or hike around the srilJ-frozen A journey co che Tacoma arrows Bridge lake. With a beautiful day and an easy and Point Defiance Park came next. One of trail, Mr. Fremont Lookout above Yakima the Tacoma members explained the con­ Park at Mr. Rainier beckoned so many struction work rhen going on ar the bridge char the fellow stationed there rhoughr we and then aJJ hiked by trail along the cliff to were on a pilgrimage. Point Defiance and the historical museum Summerland Jived up to its name when 1 . ac Fore NisqualJy. we reached it on a cloudless August Sun­ Those hardy souls who were unable to day. Paintbrush and lupine were every­ snowshoe on Granite Peak in January cried where in this high mountain meadow near ir again in March and found themselves get­ che base of Little Tahoma, while each ting some unwanted practice in travelling picked a favorite spor to ear lunch and on cruse under a light cover of newly fallen sunbathe or el e explore ch·e surrounding snow. Deception Pass proved co be a wel­ snowfields. Those who tired of rhe switch­ come change from che snow and Mr. Erie backs on rhe Lake Blanca trail che nexr was rhe objective. When rhe trail petered Sunday were rewarded by views of Glacier out, a scramble over rhe rock cliffs brought and Columbia Peaks from the ridge. The everyone co the cop. On an ordinary day rhe trail down to the lake from rhe ridge wa� San Juans would have been visible, bur covered by windfalls, but with a few help­ since it was cloudy, they were hidden. Yer ful boosts over rhe biggest ones, everyone views of the nearby countryside made the reached the lake so aptly described as :1 trip co the top worrhwhile. "Palmolive" green. Columbia Peak, which In April, when ordinarily mosr of che rises above che lake on rhe northwest, be­ snow has fallen in the mountains and came modest when we approached the lake crunchy spring snow is good for snowshoe­ and hid behind the clouds until we had ing, a trip to Commonwealth Basin was gone. planned. But winter chis year was nor giv­ Labor Day week-end gave us an oppor­ ing up so easily, and we found a foot of tunity for our only camping trip of the new snow from rhe previous day, and the year. and the Waterhole (just char) Camp snow was still falling on our way in to rhe on Hurricane Ridge in rhe Olympics was Basin. Lacer in the month Everett Jed the selected. Saturday afternoon found all but group co a stare forest lookout above Lake the newest model cars parked along the Samish near Bellingham. Clouds hovered sreep road to rhe ridge waiting for radiato1s over Mr. Baker until everyone was back ro ro cool, but everyone arrived ar camp before the cars. Then it appeared, as if to taunt dark and in rime to visit campfire. Sunday's those who had hoped to see it from rhe trip to Moose Lake began from rhe ridge lookout. at Obstruction Point with Mr. Olympus The annual flower walk at Chambers and the peaks to the west and south mag­ Creek near Tacoma was in a different loca­ nificently displayed. The trip down co the tion than previous years, and while most of lake was sunny bur clouds had rolled in the familiar prairie flowers were in bloom, from the west before we all returned co che no calypso orchids were found. cars. In spire of the wee, cold fog blowing An all-day yacht trip to Hood Canal on across the ridge, everyone welcomed a the Twanoh gave everyone a caste of tire slice of cold watermelon before driving sale air and a rum at the wheel if he so back to camp. Camp proved co be a wenc'r desired. We stopped at rhe mill town of place than when we had left it in rhe Port Gamble to stretch our newly acquired morning, bur we all managed to ear dinner s·ealegs and co explore the old pioneer hotel only mildly dilured by raindrops and found with its massive sideboards and other an­ campfires an easy place to clry cloches and tique furniture. The boat attempted co put dunnage. Thos·e who hadn't visited rhe in ar Camp Parsons and Seabeck but since Hurricane Hill Lookout Saturday rook the the tide was our, we set our course for the two-mile branch road before leaving for Ballard Locks and Lake Union. What ever home. The weather had cleared and the happened co those energetic few who were scenery again was breathtaking for chose going to walk a mile by doing fifry turns who had any breach Jdr after helping rhe abour the deck ? car cling to che road up co rhe Lookout. The trip to Crystal Peak above the White From the ridge, each car picked irs own River could almost have been called a snow pleasure in driving back to Seattle, using 43 every possible route except by air co try to the rewards of early spring climbing is avoid the holiday traffic. glissading down the mountain. For thos·e who wanted an easy pose-holi­ Fife's Peak, our first overnight trip, day hike, Seward Park offered an oppor­ brought out the largest turnout of the tunity to get on rhe trails without leaving season. Camp was made at Hell's Crossing rhe city. Trips to Klaparche Park and Mr. Forest Camp on the east side of Chinook Dickerman, rwo favorite haunts nor visited Pass Highway, and our climb was made for several years, were scheduled as rhe via the scenic ridge route in beautiful roads were at last passable. Return trips weather. Our timing was perfect, for as we also to Pratt Lake, Be·ehive lookout, and :i neared the cars Sunday night the clouds visit to Kitsap Cabin wound up the year's rolled in from the southwest and about activities and left us ready to spring eagerly Jive minutes afrer leaving for home the on to new rrails next year. rains came. -MARIAN LUNDBERG In July we bagged another lodge pin peak, Silver this time, and also Church • Mountain near the Canadian border. The Climbing With the Viewfinders rock garden at the summit of Silver was in bloom for us. Church was a hot climb, 1950 gave birch to a new committee, but well worth the ·effort. Many of us re­ organized to meet rhe demand of a group turned home with petrified sea shells from who wanted to climb high ·enough for a the fossil beds, although it will no doubt view, yet avoid rhe technicalities of ropes, take considerable steaming to make chem pitons and suction cups. New, inexperi­ render enough for soup or chowder. enced members as well as old-timers climbed In the middle of the Summer Outing we every s·econd week-end, wirh lunch and planned a trip to lake Barclay camera. The first hikes chis spring were with a climb of Townsend via Eagle lake one-day trips, and gradually worked up to for Sunday. Only eight hardy souls turned longer trips requiring overnight camping, out in the threatening weather, so we and an overnight backpack rrip to Eagle packed in to Eagle lake, Saturday, where lake. we made use of our trip leader's luxurious The April 16 trip went off wirh a very private cabin and enjoyed the clatter of the weak "pop." Dirty Face Mountain near rain against the solid roof above us. On lake Wenatchee had been selected for the Sunday our enthusiasm was about as damp maiden voyage, but soft, deep snow, to­ as the weather, so we retreated inside and gether with rain, made us retreat farther left Townsend Peak to the clouds. east to the sunshine belt where we had to August 20 and 27 found us atop Colman settle for a hike along a ridge near Tum­ Peak near Mt. Baker, and Mt. Pugh, an water Recreation Area. Deep snow and Everett pin peak in the Darrington area. poor weather also forced a shorter sub­ Excellent weather prevailed both week­ stitute on April 30. ·ends. The Colman Peak climbers probably We finally sneaked up on Old Sol May through arrangement with our leader. the 14 at Christoff 1. 0. in the Chinook Pass Club president, were treated to a brilliant area with Mt. Rainier in the foreground. display of the Aurora Borealis Saturday This was a good trip for the camera fiend night and Sunday morning. and sunbather. Our September climbs of Surprise and Our next rwo were snow climbs of Red Tolmie Peaks wound up the Viewfinders' and Granite, both of chem Snoqualmie activities for the vear. The balance of the lodge pin peaks. After these ascents the week-ends were left open for work parries novices possessed a good working knowl­ at all rhe cabins. edge of an ice axe and learned chat one of -BOB RINEHART

Campfires and Crags

We Campcrafters traveled to many are�, mens of red chert, and copper ore hitherto unvisited by any sizable group, from the mine at the rim of the crater. planning several of the trips for their A Seattle gem society has taken tons of geological interest, some for the thrill of cherts from chis mine for polishing and exploring the unknown, and ochers for forming into ornamental pieces. their beauty and remarkable vistas. We Ar Chief Joseph Dam we were favored slept on a spot which will soon be under with a fine explanation of rhe bedrock water forever, we pioneered Bridge River foundation and the unique engineering Valley, and were startled by an echo in being employed in the design and con­ Su lran Basin. struction of one of rhe country's greatest R0sario Beach was enjoyable as always. power plants. Harriett Tiedt located a From Mr. Erie the San Juan Islands sat picturesque campsite about rhree miles upon Puget Sound like hu1;e, contented upstream from the dam, which will soon seagulls, and "the great white watcher" be covered by the waters of rhe lake ( as jutted into the clear blue day, dominating yet unnamed ). the northern Cascades just as it did when We found that Red Top Mountain, near first Vancouver saw and named ir. Mr. Blewett Pass, holds particular interest for Jenette of the Jenette Farms whetted our rock collectors because of its variety of blue interest with tales of the volcanic origin of agate and geods. The Campcrafters built Fidalgo Island, and gave us many speci- rhe Jirsr cairn on its peak. likewise we 44 found Sultan Basin a rewarding trip, rich saml,'les . of th� ore in a temp�rarure of in old mining history, rich in climbing 12 S . Smee mm·ers are superstmous about possibilities, for it makes accessible by a women entering a mine, the ladies were new route the peaks around Vesper, Gothic conducted to the scamping and sorting mill. and Sheep Gap. And you can have keen Our climbs of Sloan, Green and Penrose fun listening to your voice bounce around revealed a horizon of chaU-enging summits, the mountains, loud and clear. many of them upwards of 10,000 feet. To The Suiattle area was widely acclaimed the north peaks rise out of vast glacial and as one of exceptional beauty. Our climb of permanent snow fields reaching almost to Green Mountain and exploration of the the summits, which reminds one of the ridge leading to Mt. Buckindy opened up Alaskan· coastal glacial systems. The main an interesting climbing area. Some evidence valley systems are large and extensive in points to the Dnwney Creek route as being comparison with the Washington Cascades. the best approach, but the most direct is A well-planned rwo- or three-day rrip up Buck and Horse Creeks without benefit would be required to scale chos·e peaks to of trail. On Green Mountain were vistas the west and north. Mts. Ferguson, Pen· and alpine meadows with acres of flowers rose, Green and Dickson can be climbed in equal to Mc. Rainier or the Olympic high an extended day's trip. Sloan and Terminal divide. A new trail beyond the three-mile demand an overnight trip, and many ocher mark is comparable to the Wonderland mountains to rhe south can be climbed in Trail. Downey Creek Trail, closed since this period of rime. Rock varies from early war years, is again open to travel. solid granite to rotten serpentine. Afrer a great deal of deliberation, corres· After our Jong, rugged drive inco this pondence and planning, the committee se­ beautiful country in back of beyond, we lected Manning Park for the first half of were amazed to see a plane wing down to our Summer Outing. There's a hard-sur· rhe lake. Every day it came, on schedule. faced road to the campsite five miles easr Astounded, we learned we were but f\VO of Allison Pass, northeasr of the Skagit air hours from Vancouver ! But we wouldn't area. It's a marvelous site for base camp trade our experience and drive for all the for two- or three-day pack trips to major comfort of a fast trip by plane. Sunny peaks: Hozameen, Castle, and ilver Ti!') . days ( the weather here is scab le) slipped In another year the Canadian Government by all coo quickly. Soon chose wonderful may have complered their system of trails trout breakfasts supplied by Casey Jones to commanding view points such as Frosty were memories, . and so our litcle fawn, Mountain, Windy Joe, kyline Ridge and and rhe good nmes around the campfires Three Brothers. The latter area is of spe­ with our Canadian friends. Our worry that cial interest to the botanist because of its we would all require blood transfusions vast floral meadows. before the mosquicoes finished feeding upon Our roure from Manning Park to the our private suppJi·es was forgotten when we second phase of our trip led us over a feasted on Doris Wilde's potaro pancakes. twisting, narrow road cut from the pre­ For a long rime we'll remember the beau­ cipitous banks of the Fraser. At lillooet riful camp-spot provided by Mrs. Vara we drove our automobiles onto flat cars of Sowden of Gold Bridge, and the scenic the PG&E Railway and were transported Marble Canyon and Cache Creek by which 20 miles wesrward along the walls of we rerurned. The Campcrafcers recommend Seton lake to Shalalth. A thrilling drive, rhat this route be used as the best road of gaining 3000 feet elevation in five miles, entry into the lillooet district. took us over Mission Mountain and down In marvelous weather, we finished the into Brid.l(e River Valley. At this point a year's program with on natural damsite has been provided by Gowrnor's Ridge and Cowlitz Chimneys nature to give 1350-foot head of water on Mt. Rainier, and the Three Queens from the Bridge River tunnels in Mission near lake Kachess, while the trails and Mountain and down the 2Vi" thick steel lakes resounded to the laughter of small penstocks to the powerhouse on Seton lake. fry, and now are silent for us until Spring Three 50,000-hp. turbines are being in· comes agam. stalled and five more are on the way. The -DICK PATERSON and ED LOWRY power plant is now sending electricity into our orthwest power pool. • • Yo11r leader's word is final if it is A forry-mile trip up the glacial river brought us to our campsite on Big Gun precautionary. Yott have the right to lake. With individual ingenuiry, each question decisions, b11t not to detach group set up its own hous·ekeeping area, yourself from the party alone when a creating from logs and old boards, cables, safety decision is reached by the ma­ benches, cupboards. Besides swimming, fishing and boating, which the children jority. enjoyed heartily, we visited old· mines • Get yourself in good physical con­ along both Big and litcle Gun lakes. and collecred our wealth of specimens. Ernie ditio,.i gradually before going on long­ Howard and Green were genu­ er clnnbs. Your lack of condition may inely helpful in explaining local mineral jeopardize the party. Mountain climb­ lore and in enabling the men to visit the ing requires a close medical check-up workings of the Bralorne Gold Min·e. The men went down to the 3000-foot level, periodically, especially with greater glimpsed a fortune in gold and gathered age. 45

·�

The Sp acious Spaces

A review of the past year shows char the worthy then char new faces are appearing} skiers were blessed with a tremendous fall year by year, to receive a cordial welcome of snow and, consequently, a s ·eason which as they learn the back trails and the high never did quire end . . . August and Sep­ trails and discover still another alluring tember rolled around, and still there was facet of the art of skiing. good snow ar comparatively low altitudes: Most tours, excepting chose on major And for many of us, rhe November to peaks, have been of the one-day type. From July dares were filled on most week-ends the scandpoint of perfect weather and snow with the pleasures which skiing brings. A conditions, the first planned tour, to Mt. slow scare in organizing committees de­ Margaret, was on·e of the best, although layed some of the planned functions; even the February weacher is nor always so so, most of our objectives were accom­ cooperative. This was followed by trips co plished. Denny Basin, Pyramid Peak, Seattle Park, Skiing, like every sport, is basically recre­ Silver Basin, Cryscal Basin, Sr. Helens, Mt. ational, buc rwo broad classifications of Baker, and Inter-Glacier-the lase trip re­ skiers do exist-those interested in organ­ quiring pontoons and slickers as well as ized competition, and those who prefer to skis. Snow conditions made it advisable to choose their own trails and speeds. Since cancel trips to the Barrier and Camp the number of skiers increases every year, Hazard. Groups of three or four made a and the skills and desires of chose past few of rhe tours, but in general a comforc­ the beginner stage do change, it became able group of ren to fifteen was on hand apparent chat better planning of all types ac the start. The committee at Mt. Baker of ski acrivicies would or should resulc from scheduled tours each week-end chat the a division of responsibilities; the Moun­ cabin was open. These were gen·erally to taineers gave official recognition to this Shuksan Arm, Table, or Herman, and chose siruarion by creating the Competitive Ski familiar with the area realize char a variety Committee and rhe Recreational Ski Com­ of runs was possible. The season was not mittee. The former undertook rhe complex rhe best char has been experienced ar Mt. job of record-keeping, correspondence, class­ Baker, bur we still managed to Jay down a ification, and rhe formal paper-work and good many miles of ski cracks. planning char inevitably is necessary to con­ Ski touring is an established activity of trol inter- and intra-club competition; in the Mountaineers; and to the end chac boch cooperation with rhe hut committees, su­ pleasure and safety may be effectually com­ p·ervision of rhe ski lessons . . . beginner bin·ed, the Ski Mountaineering Course is to expert ...was also maintained. held each winter, with lectures at the club­ The ·Recreational Committee then con­ rooms and practice trips to almost any area centrated its efforts on planning and con­ suitable to the purpose of demonstrating ducting ski tours, presenting the Ski Moun­ bivouacs and camping in the snow, roped taineering Course, helping plan clubroom skiing, and glacier crevasse and rescue ·e ntertainment of particular interest to skiers, rechniques. In essence, the Club seeks to and combining its efforts wich the Com­ present the problems to be encountered and pecirion Committee when necessary. overcome while traveling in the wintertime. What is Ski Touring? Reduced to ics usually at a distance from facilities or component parts, a tour is a trip on skis, assistance, and rhe most practical methods with a definice location as an objeccive, of meeting these problems. supervised and planned by a comperent The course as now taught is the culmina­ leader; the length may be a few hours or tion of years of experience, and even yet is several days, and the people who are tour­ added to from rime to time, and will be ing should have sufficient skill to ke·ep the revised still furcher before being printed in whole party from being endangered. This a permanent form. Sl!ven lectures at present year, from February until July, scheduled form the basis for rhe course, but there is and unscheduled tours headed for tho sufficient material available for division choicest parts of our almost unlimited into a basic and an advanced course, for varieties of ski terrain. which plans are being made. The subjects With the records of past years to help, covered indicate the problems and hazards and with careful regard for che condicions which are ·encountered. likely to be encountered, a really fine sea­ Warmch, Energy, and Clothing, followed son was planned and enjoyed by those who by Equipment and Technique, present the scrayed beyond hail of che praccice slope proper means of being as comforcable, as and che racing trail. In the pasc ir has been safe, and as enduring as possible. Snow­ noticeable that ski-touring has for the most craft, Avalanches, Waxing are design·ed to part drawn ics devocees from among those facilitate ease and safety of travel, as are whose experience reaches back-back to the Route Finding and Weather. Camping and days when che sport of skiing was viewed Party Management are self-evident. Glacier askance by the public as being only slighcly Skiing and Emergencies present the solu­ less ringed with psychopathic symptoms tion to problems nor ordinarily encountered than the sport of hanging from cliffs wich at lower alcirudes. In all phases of the a thread of rope for sole support, when a course it will be noticed that self-sufficiencv ski binding was a contraption like a leather of the individual, cooperation with ochers harness, and ski wax was an experimental for the good of rhe parry, and extreme re­ conglomeration of scuff mixed in your own gard for rules of safety, are all stressed. basement, pungent and sticky. It is note- Recognition and avoidance of natural haz- 47 ards are fundamental co the Ski Moun­ Registration. In this way all skiers could taineer; of necessity there is an overlapping be classified according co hill talent and into the field covered by the complete clubroom talent, the chores distributed, and course in mountain climbing, since the Competition would get acquainted with climber and the skier at higher altitude himself in ski clothes and street apparel. will as often as not have recourse co the' Oh, those best-laid plans ...obstacles same expedients co reach their goal. In its loomed, opened, trees sprouted on broader and Jess complicated aspect, how­ rhe trail. By the rime the divorce was final ever, the tourist-on-skis needs his funda­ and he was free co operate on his own, it mental skill in hanging on while his skis was coo late to obtain suitable dares for carry him over the landscape, and the use of the clubrooms, or co squeeze Club know-how co be comfortable and avoid Racing dares into a calendar already filled danger. And this knowledge increases from with Outside Racing events. Registration year co year, with the help of all the classifier fell ill, and Correspondence and members. Publicity collapsed. Though Ski School Any person who can pass the Class 3 showed progress, and Outside Racing was test for skiers may complete the Ski Moun­ well represented by Mountaineers, the go­ taineering Course. The test is based on ing was rough. Ski Competition didn't the ability co make four successive down­ have even the luck of the little Red Hen hill turns, without stopping or falling, and . all her barnyard fellows rallied 'round in good control on a 25-degre·e slope. when rhe bread was ready, while only a Speed is not of the essence; an experienced few Mountaineers came to partake of the skier may schuss a difficult slope, and get Entertainment and Dancing. co his destination faster, but it is also pos­ This ski year, however, with the course sible for a relatively inexperienced skier, charred early and his six divisions ably who can pass the above rest, co traverse manned, Ski Competition hopes to whizz carefully, proceed more slowly, but still into rhe open slopes and race successfully reach his destination safely. And all who over the finish line co complete rhe season. venture off the practice slopes should have the basic knowledge co care for themselves. • As a milestone, it should be noted that a 1950 FOLDBOATING new crop of geniuses has aris·en. Ever)' person who cook the test in the Ski Moun­ SEASON taineering Course this year passed with There is little doubt in rhe minds of near-perfect grades. Our thanks tO the those all-around Mountaineers who have good instructors, who apparently must be trained for, sought, and rasred the thrills on rife genius-side themselves. ( and chills') of swift mountain stream A resume of the season would not be slalom runs, or the adventure and memory complete without mention of the integrated of new river exploration vacations in far­ acrivries which round it our. Entertainmenl :iway places, memories of entering unex­ is offered at the clubroom from time t0 plored canyons, mastering chutes, rapids, rime on subj'ects of primary interest co the and right turns, or of campfires along the skier; movies, lectures, and demonstrations ageless downhill highways ... that fold­ are given, and anyone who has suggestions boaring is nor only here to stay, but that it or help t0 offer is welcome indeed. And no has all the earmarks of b'ecoming the matter what your degree of skill, the back­ climber's and skier's little brother with bone of the ski tribe's activity is still the growing pains. lodge or hut, with hot food, pleasant talk, A goodly number of Mountaineers asso­ and friendship. A report of lodge activities ciated with the Washington Foldboat Club is elsewhere. The lodges have certainly have helped develop this versatile sport, been wonderful bases for operations of all and it is only logical that a recreation the skiers. -JOHN F. FULLER which satisfies the climbers and skiers eoually will become a part of their moun­ • tain activities. The foldboater learns the SKI COMPETITION arr in foldboating courses that teach him about his gear, the antics of the current Ski Competition divorced himself from and its navigation, rhe coping with emer­ his mate, Ski Recreation, this past s·eason gencies ( including the use of rope and and went out inta a snowy world to prove carabiners to make the climber feel at he could srand on his own two boards. home), and the technique of trip manage­ Competition refused financial aid from his ment and scouting. In the field he graduates parents, Mr. and Mrs. Treasury, and faced from gentle streams to "first descents" on single life with zest and dazzling plans. exploration journeys. There are forty fold­ He would earn his own way selling suh· boar-navigable streams in Wash I ngton scriprions t0 the National Ski Annual, and alone, and many are awaiting us in Oregon, arrang>e a dance with a superb orchestra Idaho, and Canada. From the river the and door prizes . . maybe several dances mountains look taller, the country _greener, . . . good conditioning for skiers' knees. the trail is always downhill and dustless, He would show ski movies at the club­ without retracing one's step, without a bur­ rooms and pass the tambourine for contri­ densome pack. and with an ever-changing butions. Competition would flourish ! panorama and current speed. From the For easier handling, Competition di­ mountains upon which he climbs, the vided his plans into six parts: Club Racing, glaciers upon which he travels, the snow Outside Racing. Entertainment. Corres­ upon which he skis. and finally to the melt pondence and Publicity, Ski School, and water upon which he can coast so effort- 48 l lessly down the valleys . . . the climber, the Theater to prepare for the climax of s�e�, and foldboacer have in common the the year ...The Play. spu1t of adventure, the cesc with the ele­ These rwo weeks in June were the ments, and che source of these joys ...our natural end coward which we worked in mountain ranges. Why not widen your spring. Nashie came again to relieve us of appreciation with a change of pace now the cares of cooking for 55 people. Cos­ and then, and learn to feel the freedom tume fittings went on in unexpected places, of a light kayak carrying you down our grease paint and make-up kits popped ouc magnificent mountain screams ? of trees, worri·ed frowns turned skyward, (Note: River mileage of Mountaineer­ although we all know The Mountaineer participacing trips for 1950 accumulated ro Thespians are true troopers and the play well over 4000 "foldboater-miles." In­ goes on, rain or shine. Last-minute instruc­ cluded in these were trips on the Cedar, tions from the director, Mrs. Lois Sandall, Skykomish, Scillaguamish, Yakima, Sno­ drifted up from the theater seemingly go­ qualmie, Tolt, Nisqually, Green, Cowlitz, ing in one ear and out the ocher of the Skagit, Sauk, McKenzie, Rogue, Koorenay, heedless players. Harried phone calls and Bow Rivers, the latter on a stretch of whizzed over the wires from Hidden Ranch; over 150 miles between Lake Louise and willing workers struggled down-trail with Calgary, Alberta.) hoc lunches for the actors. During the -WOLF BAUER performance audience and participants alike fell under the spell of our forest cheater • and "If I Were King." So we invite you, and you, n·ew or old KITSAP CABIN Mountaineer, co come co Kitsap. If you've Across Puget Sound we have a cabin that a yen for play-acting, come. Mrs. Sandall many of the n·ewer members have not yet will develop your dormant dramatic talents. visited; also, the loveliest outdoor theater Should you wane co dance, or walk in quiet in the Northwest. We acquired this 74-acre beauty, visit Kitsap. Learn co know, and farm near Bremerton in 1916. In 1940 we you will love, chis property of ours chat obtained a clear title to an adjacent 40 is both a natural park and a rhododendron acres. Kitsap Cabin was built there in preserve we should protect and cherish 1918, and chose members not in service through the years. chat summer worked hard co finish it in -EL V!RA LEHTINEN time for the World War I boys co come home co it. A large stone fireplace dom­ • inates the main room where we dine and MUSING AT MEANY dance and talk; there's a kitchen with an old-fashioned range, and a storeroom for The mellow, echoing whistle of a stream­ the mattresses. Sleeping quarters are sep­ liner as it crawls through the valley below arate. The women's dormitory, built in brings one to pause and reflect on the 1928, has about 25 double bunks in it; serenity of the hillside on which he stands. men's quarters are more primitive, but As the diminished sixth sound waves fade adequate. Frequently the Mountaineers into stillness, the eyes rest on, and sud­ sleep under the scars amidst the fir and denly become aware of ...a symphony of dogwood trees. reds, browns and golds. In the near dis­ tance, dull hacking sounds of a lazy axe In former years Kitsap Cabin was used clearing a downhill run are heard in audi­ quite regularly the year around. It is hoped ble accompaniment. An occasional yodel chat we can again make it the favorite penetrates rhe crisp air in anticipation of center of fun. There's the nudeus of a good the coming season of skis. folk-dance record collection, and plenty of space, so all of you with rhythm in your Low at first . . . then shrill, the siren bones come make the rafters ring. sounds gladsome proclamation chat dinner is ready. The green woods quickly belch In the winter and spring of 1949 and forth happy workers who come stumbling 1950 the cabin was open during ten week­ through the rouge twilight. Ready co re­ ends. Our Hallowe'en Party is a tradition, ceive the onrushing avalanche is the volun­ for it's a Kitsap custom ro lead blincl­ teer kitchen crew-ready with Spanish rice folded victims through the woods co hair­ and meat balls ...re ady with ginger cake raising, spine-tingling adventures in the and whipped cream-ready with a list of House of Horrors, known on ordinary days names co help clean up the kitchen. as Fleet's Cabin. Nashie was on hand co Evening chores finished, each Moun­ surfeit us with delicious turkey. December taineer settles to his or her reverie, either 10, on a Saturday evening, found us Christ­ active or passive. For there is dancing, mas-partying and competing for gifts hang­ folk and modern. Shelves weigh heavilv ing from a huge tree. The next day the with discs of Hambos and Schortisches, Trail Tripp·ers joined us for our annual Polkas and Fox Trots. There are O"ervous Greens Walk, and co make wreaths for the games of pick-up-sticks. There is a Canasta Children's Orthopedic Hospital. tournament. There are books co peruse and In spring we turned co work and play call tales co be heard and cold. Then one rehearsal. Kitsap Cabin got its face pol­ by one, drowsing figures move upwa�d· co ished for June guests. We swept the roof, the bunks and sleeping bags. A bit of, sawed and chopp·ed wood, got the ram banter between the dormitories . . . then working after winter freezes, repaired the sleep. pipe line, cleaned out the cabins and The somber pines outside keep lonely trails . . . and, of course, there's always vigil awaiting the morn that will witness 49 still more activity, willingly performed by Snoqualmie Lodge co assume a certain lead­ those who have found peace here. A ership in activities as the "year 'round blanket of cobalt . . . star-studded . . . lodge." overhead lends calm refuge. The night Everyone who's week-ended at Snoqual­ breeze plays a lullaby upon the strings of knows the "gypsy_" truth of its warmth nature. The hillside composes a cone poem he'll always share. We shared with about of nocturnal ecstacy. one hundred ten people on Valentine's Day. Dawn arrives all coo soon, but the aroma It's an unwanted cask co turn people away, of frying bacon gradually lures even the so feeling a bit like a harried hostess who most profound sleeper from the depths of wonders whether her guests will be more lethargy into the heights of action. The comfortabl'e crosswise in bed, or on the roof needs reshingling. Wood needs cut­ floor, we chose the latter. We even laid 'em ting, coal needs hauling and the cow out by the range. mechanism needs attention. Crowded quarters became routine. The There is still good fellowship co be had Bachelor Party in December opened the and Gavey is there co distribute it evenly. season, for skiing and otherwise. More than Then another work party has slipped eighty bachelorettes and bachelors skimmed further cowards long-awaited winter. Re­ over the dance floor half the night and had luctant souls return to the city co anxiously energy left over the next day for trying scan weather reports in daily hope of their skis on the snow covered road above snowfall. and below the lodge. Then it happens ! First shining crystals are By the Christmas holidays plenty of snow formed on leaf and twig. The hillside spar­ covered the stumps and blueberry bushes kles with a carpet of ermine. A myriad of for trail skiing or skimming down from the diamonds gleams in the morning sun ... ridge, and each week end thereafter skiers harbingers of the s·eason of schuss and sla­ single and skiers married with small fry, lom. Tall pine and mountain hemlock yawn­ came co the lodge co take lessons and work ingly stretch many arms into a heaven of on Christies, or co ride the neighboring profoundest blue. Days pass, bringing drifts chair lift co the ridge for a cross trek and of powdery snow ...over which skis glide a long run to the highway. with a light swishing sound, their passage The Klondike Party was a delight to all. lifting the snow in a scintillating cloud. Gold nuggets bought anything; gaming The determined hum of whirring sheaves halls and beautiful girls lured Sourdoughs; invites novice and expert alike co ever-new Dangerous Dan McGrew died again in delights. Jane's arms, and Carrie Nation rushed all Colman and Dale keep constant vigil as the way from Kansas co clean Vice from the mainrenance progresses smoothly. frozen north. Colored slides of the party The perpetual warmth and welcome of are a treat ! the hut awaits chilled ear and frosty nose. Four squares, with Bill Durant calling, Domestic odors of baking cake and roasting shattered the mountain quiet on April first. meat permeate the alpine atmosphere, pro­ And the final week end in May was re­ voking lusty app·etites. Nashie is at home served for members of long standing. They in the kitchen. We are at home with our­ reminisced before the fire Saturday evening selves and nature. We are at Meany. and greeted more friends at tea on Sunday. -RICHARD STARK But actually, special occasions aren't re­ quired for fun at Snoqualmie. With noth­ • ing scheduled one Sunday in May, an SNOQUALMIE LODGE impromptu group set off for a snow field The Gypsy's hearth is a wide, wide hearth near Guye Peak for practice in glissading And its warmth he'll always shai·e. and handling an ice axe. Another day a The bread he bakes is friendly bread and group started for the site of the old lodge, He gives it to all who fare. but never could find the trail beneath deep For those who follow the wide wo..Jd o'er snow. Have 11eed offriendly bread, And there's always music at Snoqualmie. B,·ead of daring and laughter and courage Records co inspire a work party; to encour­ bigh age you to one more climb of the hill on And nothing can take its stead. skis; quiet music for dinner time, lively music co waken sleepy heads on Sunday, That's the hearth of Snoqualmie, wide as and a choice selection for dancing any time. the gypsy's, friendly with laughter, talk and You can dance before breakfast if you can food. Perhaps this is so because its hearth stand up without a cup of coffee. has cemented into it some of the wisdom of age that's usually associated with gypsies, A ski cow will be in operation by snow­ for the first Snoqualmie Lodge was planned fal I. Each week end finds the lodge and ski at the Summer Outing campfires way back enthusiasts, under the direction of Jack in 1913 before many of the Mountaineers Crabill, cutting trees, hauling them into were bo�n. Our present lodge is a continu­ place with block aod cackle, pouring cement ation of the former building; the stones of for the ski cow mocor hut. It's a big job, the fireplace are a gift by those same peo­ but when it's don-e, the lodge winrerized, ple who joined hands around that campfire broken windows mended and other minor repairs completed, Snoqualmie will be ready nearly forty summers ago. Thus co �ur present hearth com·es part of the old which for its third winter season. roots it deep into the beginnings and tra­ There's spring and summer, coo. Twenty ditions of The Mountaineers, and licenses Lodge Pin Peaks co chall'enge the climber, 50 the Pacific Crest Trail and others to lure the end of the full skiing day they can the hiker, a wide porch on which to rest reach our Hue by skiing down from the and breathe tangy Cascade air and the frag­ T-Bar or by packing in one-half mile from rance of firs. All of you who 'have need of the rope cow. friendly bread,' gather 'round Snoqualmie Bue the day is not over ! An apprehensive hearth often. look at the hut's duty sheet shows chat • there is plenty for all: ( 1) Wood to be chopped, ( 2) generacor to be started, ( 3) STEVENS HUT water co be turned on, ( 4) food to be Practically every week end from late No­ packed in ( men only), ( 5) dinner co be vember to May some 30 to 40 Mountaineers cooked, ( 6) packs to be hoisted to the head for a full week end of skiing and eat­ dorms and snow to be shoveled ...among ing at Srevens. By leaving Seattle in i:he ocher things. On most weekends th'ese func­ black of dawn the skier can reach Monroe tions proceeded smoothly, but some mem­ in time to be greeted by the village cop at bers can remember the week end when the the full stop sign. Those who make the full chimney clogged and the generacor failed, stop can thank those who don't for_ their the "hot" wacer froze and the kitchen stove $5.00 contributions coward the butldrng of belched smoke into che lounge and up the n·ew highway from Snohomish co Mon­ through the dorms, necessitating wide-open roe. windows in zero weather. (Brr!) Anothe!: From Monroe che drive continues on road memorable irem of che winter was che con­ newly paved this summer, passes che spec­ tinued effort of Chairman Ben Muzzey to tacular Mc. Index country and leads on co explain with his eastern accent the use of the 4 000 foot summit of Stevens Pass­ che Hut's new fire ·extinguishers. We are wher: chains are occasionally required. Ac still awaiting a western interpreter. And the summit skiers are rewarded by ski we recall the trying morning when a slopes extending to 5000 foot elevation pair of ski boots, surreptitiously hung over which are serviced by a three-quarter-mile the stove to dry, fell into the cereal water. T-Bar, a series of four rope cows from the With a new season ahead, we hope that Forestry Lodge up into the Bowl, and two more of the Club membership will enjoy shorter tows for che elementary skier. Ac che good skiing and good times at Stevens.

Club Entertainment

MONTHLY MEETINGS or a minure of the half hour "new dance" instruction. For the first time it was neces­ On Pike Street, at 523, is a stationary sary to limit admissions to Mountaineers place in the center of Seattle chat once a and their "dates,'' and there is talk around month assumes the air of a travel agency. about having two dances a month during From here The Mountaineers have traveled the '50-'51 season. the world. England, South America, Ireland, This proves that International Folk Danc­ Mexico Guatemala, Bermuda, the Scandi­ ing is growing in popularity throughout the navian 'countries, have all been toured via country; that che Mountaineers are increas­ that quickest of transportation, the phoco ing in numbers; and that Mountaineers are lense. rugged people. Doing the "To-Tur,'' "Oh The Mountaineers got acquainted with Johnny,'' "Gypsy Wine," "Mexican Waltz,'' the "'Men of Glouster,'' Yosemite glaci'ers, Swedish "Hambo," che dizzying Viennese did ski mountaineering with the Sierra Waltz, that Russian breath-taker "Koro­ Club, and visited the Skagit area through bushka,'' and che lusty German beer-garden the courtesy of the City Light. They relived schottische, "Bruder Lustig,'' is harder on form'er Summer Outings, up to and includ­ the knees than climbing a mountain. The ing last year, through the wonder of col­ committee got down to fine statistics and ored slides. And, in June, everyone went co figured that by the end of the season every­ Sun Vall'ey for an evening. one had expended enough foot-pounds of No wonder that Mountaineers, with such energy to have climbed Mt. Rainier 3% tempting travelogues fed to them during times a piece. their Monthly meetings, take off for a real Thank goodn·ess for the pop, cupcakes, bicycle tour of Europe, for climbing in and conversation at intermission ! Alaska and South America, or vacations at To Dorothy and Chee Little: a low bow Sun Valley. Just join in these Clubroom from brightly shirted men, and a curcsey activities and you, too, will be putting from colorfully-skirted women for their pa­ quarters in the piggy bank toward that trip tience in teaching many new dances. to somewhere, returning to lure che rest of us clubroom travelers to distant places. In February, 1950, the orchestra and The is Mountaineers suffered the loss of Bert It a dizzy cirde. Between our own Lindgren. During the cen years he played pictures and chose loaned to us, it looks for us, his talent for arranging music into like The Mountaineers "are going places." rhythms perfect for folk dancing and his DANCES evident enjoyment in playing for us, earned him a permanent place in the hearts of Crowds of dancers rushed to Polish Hall Mountaineer dancers. the first Friday of each month, eager not to Personnel of the Lindgren orchestra, un­ miss the opening of Bert Lindgren's music, der the leadership of Bob Olson, played for 51 the remainder of the s·eason, and will fur­ and a high- amplifier wich necessary nish music for the '50-'51 season. Our controls, etc., and a sec of detachable aiu­ schedule again will include a Hallowe'en minum legs. The second unit is the speaker dance where ingenuity of costume is che cabinet, finished in natural knotty pine and cue, and our spring "Tolo"' dance where hardwood, wich casters and carrying han­ the women may blossom into evening dress­ dles, anq.,doors co protect the speaker and es and charm their men co che rhythm of grills. The sound production unit consists conventional ballroom music. of a high fidelity fifteen-inch coaxial -VALLIE JOHNSON speaker backed by a built-in cone chamber. • The cabin·ec is frankly coo large for transport in an ordinary auto. If, after a MUSICALES crial period chis lack of easy portability of Mountaineers are music lovers ...every che speaker cabinet is found co restrict ics musical event of any importance, whether use, a cwin-·speaker unit in suitcase form symphony, bailee, chamber music or re­ and weighing approximately forty pounds citals-turns out co be a sore of Moun­ can be had ac a comparatively low cost. taineer . For indeed, che Moun­ The Club would chen have a truly portable taineer ear, accustomed co the sounds of music and PA system in addition co the che out-of-doors, is attuned co che musical, large unit for group music programs. from che flute of che bird's call co the bass In addition co playing records, plug-ins of che roar of che avalanche; from che are included in che rear panel for micro­ pianissimo murmur of che fledgling scream phone attachment, a radio input or another co che crescendo of che waterfall. turntable if such might be desired. By a This companionship in music early in sdeccor switch on the main control panel 1942 instilled the idea in a group within these various inputs, including the set's che Club co organize che first musicales, in own record changer, can be used in ter­ che form of recorded programs, accom­ changeably. By use of a microphone, speech panied by informal program notes, and can be amplified through che set for dances sometimes including group discussions on or ocher purposes. rhe music performed. The popular reception Prior co the acceptance of the Thalian of che first performances prompted a series Recocd Player, the music group had been of monthly evenings devoced co the listen­ operating on an informal basis, but at the ing co recorded classical music, wich em­ December, 1949, meeting of che Board of phasis on the performance of compositions Trustees, it was made a formal committee noc usually heard in che concert hal I. The of the Club, and the instrument placed in programs ac first were conducted ac the its custody. The player is scored at the clubrooms, but expanding use of the room clubroom, and is available for all Moun­ by ocher activities has caused their re­ taineer activities as required, and may be moval co the homes of various members, secured through arrangemem with the wich occasionally an outdoor program be­ clubroom secretary. Provision should be ing scheduled for the summer months. made for i cs transport if used ocher than As interest in the musicales progress·ed, ac the clubrooms. Vincent Millspaugh became concerned with le is hoped chat more and more Club che problem of providing a record-playing members will intere c themselves in the instrument of above average tonal qualicy monthly musicales, in order co genera lly for use by the groups interested in musical broaden our base of musical knowledge, programs, and of extra power co provide and thereby greacly increase our enjoymem for various activities of the Club through­ through more varied and interesting pro­ out the year in social affairs, dances, parties grams. Of inr eresc, coo, is the setting of and clubroom entertainment. Accordingly, films of their own taking co the music of with the assistance of his facher, Mr. H. L. the masters by some of che Club members, Millspaugh, he design·ed and constructed reversing the usual proced ure of setting che the Thalian Record Player, which was music co che film. Among such films pro­ given co the Mountaineers at che monthly duced so far have been Larry McKinnis' meeting of the music group ac che Green setting of Liszt's "Les Preludes," and Lake Fieldhous·e on Tuesday evening, o­ Dwight Wacson"s of Smetana's "The vember 15, 1949. Moldau." To quote from Vince's° Jetter of presenta­ Shortly after the musicales were started tion, the "instrument ' consists of two in Seattle, a similar group was formed in main units. One is che console built in the Tacoma, and has also been enjoying month­ form of a large suitcase covered with red ly gatherings for che purpose of listening plastic luggage material. It contains a dual­ ro recorded music. This year che cwo groups speed Webster record changer and pickup are planning co exchange programs.

Photographic Notes Some members of The Mountaineers may photographic committee and is accessible co not know chat our Club is the owner of members only through chat committee. considerable movie equipment and films. If one of che Club committees wishes to There are two 16-mm. cameras (one East­ make :i movie to record its accivici-es it man and one Bell and Howell), a tripod, may ask che board for permission co buy two screens and a 16-mm. Bell and Howell film and get an authorized person to cake projector. All of this is in charge of the rhe pictures. These films are chen kept in 52 the clubroom and may be used by groups Tetons -···-·-·········---····---·-··--1939 1200 fr. within the Club on making arrangements Olympics -·-·----··········-·····-·--1940 800 fr. with the photographic committee. At pres­ Lake O'Hara ...... 1941 1500 ft. ent these films may, on request, also be shown for organized groups outside the Reflection Lakes --···----·------1942 400 ft. Club with an authorized member of The Garibaldi ...... 1945 400 fr. Mountaineers running the projector. Some Circling Mr. Rainier ...... 1946 1200 fr. of the climbing films have been sent around Tuolumne Meadows ...... 1948 800 fr. the United States to other climbing clubs who requested them. Up to the present time the films avail­ Plays able at the clubroom deal chiefly wirh Alice in Wonderland ...... 1927 400 fr. Summer Outings, Plays and Climbing. A list of these is given below: Adventures of Snow White ...... 1930 100 ft. Climbing Adventures of Alice...... 1931 300 ft. Ascent of rhe Toorh...... 1940 400 fr. Ali Baba and the Climb of Lighthouse Forry Thieves ...... 1932 800 fr. Tower ···--···········-······-······1949 500 fr. The Reluctant Dragon...... 1933 800 ft. Climbs: The Rose and the Ring...... 1934 600 ft. White Horse -····-···········­ 400 fr. Toad of Toad Hall...... 1935 400 fr. Chair Peak Under Richard's Banner...... 1936 400 ft. Red Mountain Mt. Index Snow White ...... 1937 400 ft. Guye Peak Sleeping Beauty ...... 1938 400 fr. Climbing Technique Rip Van Winkle ...... 1939 300 fr. (general) ····--··-·--·-·········­ 1100 fr. Midsummer Night's Climbing Technique Dream ...... 1941 500 fr. (Kaurz Ice Fall>-············· 400 fr. Sleeping Beauty ...... 1947 200 fr. Climbing Technique A Thousand Years Ago ...... 1948 300 ft. (Tumwater Canyon ) ...... 400 ft. The Prince and the Summer Outings Pauper ...... 1949 400 ft. If I Were King ...... 1950 300 fr. Mt. Robson -················-········1927 1200 fr. Glacier Peak, Mr. Baker.. .. 1928 800 fr. Miscellaneous 800 fr. Lake O'Hara ···-········-········· 1929 Activities of the Mt. Rainier ...... -1930 1600 ft. Mountaineers ...... 300 fr. Mr. Olympus ···············---····1933 1200 ft. (Used for Sportsmen's Show ) Glacier l arional Park ···-····1934 1200 fr. Special Outing Boat Trip .... 1941 400 fr. Circling Mt. Rainier...... 1936 800 fr. For the benefit of anyone wishing to Glacier, Shuksan and arrange a program, it takes 4 minutes to Baker -···-·-···············-····---1937 400 fr. run 100 fr. Selkirks -······--·--·······-··········1938 800 fr. -FRIEDA BICKFORD

Additions to Mountaineer Library 1949-1950

American .Alpine Club- Fitzgerald­ Highest Andes Safety In the Mo1111tai11s Hurchinson­ Story of the Hills American Ski Annual, 1950 Landman­ Where to Ski British Ski Yearbook, 1948, 1949 Lunn- Mott11tai11s of Memory Brockman- Trees of Mt. Rainier National Park MicoJ·eau­ Power Skiing Bruce-- Assault 011 Mt. Eve1·est Pearrie-­ Cascades Busk- Delectable Mo1t11tains Rutrledge­ Everest, 1933 - Splendid Hills Schuster­ Postscript to Adve11t1tre Damm & Just- Look at orway Smythe-- Behold the Mott11tai11s Elkins & Harper- Wo rld Ski Book My Alpine Album Engel- Tilman- Two Mo1mtai11s a11d a R.iver History of Mountaineering in the A/pJ Wilcox-Camping In the Canadian Rockies

53 THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. Membership-November 1, 1950 Total Seattle Tacoma Everett REGULAR...... 1408 1192 151 65 JUNIORS ...... 355 331 14 10 SPOUSE...... 262 222 29 11 LIFE...... 6 5 1 HONORARY...... 4 4 COMPLIMENTARY...... 3 2 --1 TOTALS...... 20 3 7 1755 195 87

HONORARY MEMBERS Col. William B. Greel"ey Charles M. Farrer Major 0. A. Tomlinson Clark E. Schurman LIFE MEMBERS Mrs. Edmond S. Meany Mrs. Naomi Achenbach Benson Duane S. Fullmer Edmond S. Meany, Jr. Reginald H. Parsons Paul W. Wiseman COMPLIMENTARY MEMBERS Joe Appa Mrs. W. W. Seymour Mrs. Joe Appa

Legend SNOQUALMIE, First Ten-* EVERETT, SilYer Pin-U SNOQUALMIE, Second Ten-** EVERETT, Gold Pin-+U TACOMA, First Twelve-t CLIMBING COURSE GRADUATE-§ TACOMA, Second TwelYe-tt SKI lVI OUNTAINEERI:\'G COURSE EVERETT, Bronze Pin-+ GRADUATE---+

SEA TILE MEMBERSHIP ! ABEL, H. V., 1462 38th Ave. (22) PR 1255 AXDERSOX, llt nry, 1619 Belmont (22) ABEL, Mrs. H. V. (Marion) 1462 38th Ave. PR 3386§ (22) PR 1255 ANDERSON, Ida M., 124 ·warren (9) EL 3889, ACHESON, R. Morrin, 1414 E. 59th, Chicago, Bus. MA 8609 Illinois ANDERSON, Jean M., 4125 Brooklyn, Apt. 11 ADAMS, Mrs. George D. (Marilyn L.) 18515 (5) ME 7625 40th Pl. N.E. (55) EM 9011 ANDERSON, Lael, 3818 44th K.E. (5) ADAMS, George Dick, 18515 40th Pl. N.E. VE 3129 ANDERSON, Lloyd, 4326 W. Southern (6) (55) EM 9011 (5) ADAMS, Marvin W., 4623 1st N.E. EV 1011 WE 3940**+U§ ADCOCK, Will, 2316 Broadway N. (2) CA 1132 ANDERSON, Mrs. Lloyd (Mary G.), 4326 W. ALAVANA, Helen, 6407 36th N.W. (7) DE 3383 Southern (6) WE 3940*§ ALBRIGHT, Aubrey W., 2355 Eastlake, Apt. ANDERSON, Marguerite, 2651 48th S.W. (6) 203 (2) MI 1986 WE 3204 ALBRIGHT, Mrs. Aubrey W., 2355 Eastlal,e, AKDERSO:\T, Korma, 2712 Han·ard X. (2) PR 8382 Apt. 203 (2) MI 1986 (5) ALBRECHT, H. W., 4009 15th K.E. AKDERSON, R. A. K., 3511 29th W. (99) EV 0858, Bus. ME 0766** AL 0954 ALEITH. Richard C., 1010'1., E. Harrison (2) AKDERSON, Ruth h., Chandler Hall, 119 W. PR 3175 Roy, Apt. 14 (99) AL 0704 ALLAN, James, 5708 34th N.E. (5) KE 0868 A:\TDERSO , Wm. H., 4464 Fremont (3) ALLEN, Barbara, 5525 Othello (8) LA 1135 ANDRILENAS, John, 16081/:, 37th Ave. (22) ALLEN, Edward "\¥. ,Northern Life Tower (l) EA 0064 EL 3429 ANDRILENAS, Mrs.(22) John (Joyce James), ALLE , Marilyn, 5525 Othello (8) LA 1135 1608 Ya 37th A,·e. EA 0064 ALLEN. Rosemary Bond, Rt. 2, Box 745, APPA, Joe, 3421 vV . 59th (7) Kirkland (Mail returned) APPA, Mrs. Joe, 3421 "\V. 59th (7) ALLISON, Jack W., 4415 W. Atlantic (6) ASK, Charles, 1119 Sunset (6) AV 5523 WE 3889 ASPLUND, Mrs. Jonas (Helen), Rt. 1, Box ALMQUIST, Mildred, 3421 35th S. (44) 80. EastonYille RA 7303 ASSELSTINE, Dorothy, 1305 Queen Anne (9) ALTIZER, Bentley B., 1320 E. 107th (55) GA 1564 JU 8630 ATHERTON, Pamela i\I., 1100 9th W. (99) AMICK, Don H., 4911 Laurelcrest Lane (5) GA 8572 KE 2865 ATKl:\'SO.\J, Mer·ial, 1618 3nl W. (99) GA(22) 69 l• ANDERSEN, L. 0., 7748 39th KE. (5) AUSTIN. Thomas E., 1808 12th AYe. ANDERSEN, Mrs. L. O. (Harriet Albrecht), PR 1911 7748 39th N.E. (5) AYA1'"X, Sherwin r., 5003 16th X.E. (5) ANDERS01 , Andrew W., Fish and Wild Life KE 4384 Service, Dept. of Int., Washington 25, D. C. AVERY Eleanor Parks, 3951 W. Elmgrove ANDERSON, Bill, 8033 9th N.W. (7) SU 7435 (6) HO 1699 ANDERSON, Caryl, 7055 17th N.E. (5) VE 2728 BABCOCK, Phyllis, 11631 1st S. (88) CH 5342 ANDEltSON, c. L., 650 Geary, San Francisco, BABCOCK. Raymontl, Graybar Electric Co.. California* 420 Lexington A,·e., New York 17, N. Y. ANDERSON, Elsie M., Box 133, Tukwila, BAILEY, Jack, Uni\·ersity Station, Box 122 CH 4899 (5) 4000 University Way ANDERSON, Helen D., 720 Broadway (22) BAILEY, Mason C., Rt. 1, Box 339, Bothell A TDERSON, Helen T., 7311 Keen ·way (3) BAIRD, Roger A .. 4320 E. 55th (5) KE 1935 KE 2907 BAK8R, Arthur B., 105 N. lOOth (33) 54 BAKER, Glenn S., 4527 18th .E. (5) BIGELOW, Alida J., 1621 E. McGraw (99) BAKER, Tom (C. T.) Box 11, University Sta­ BIGFORD, Jack Norman, 3922 Thistle (8) tion (5) KE 7237 RA 3542 BAKER, Mrs. Tom (Mary L.) Box 11, Uni­ BIRD. H. Gerald, 1243 S. 136th (88) LO 1837 versity Station (5) KE 7237 BIRKELAND, Peter W., Rt. 1, Box 267, BAKER, Thelma M., 412'h E. 72nd (5) Bellevue VE 6409 BIRNBAUM, Z. William, 5732 31st N.E. (5) BAKKEN, J. W., 4215 8th N.E. (5) VE 4629 BALDWIN, Floyd L., 12536 69th S. (88) BISHOP. Dauiel M., 4033 University Way (5) BALDWIN, Mrs. Floyd L. (Betty) 12536 ME 9694 69th s. (88) BISHOP, Lottie G., 444 Humphrey, New BALL, Fred W., 5426 Gr·eenlake Way (3) Haven, Connecticut, 5-7238 BALL, Mrs. Fred W. (Helen L.) 5426 Gireen­ BLACKLER, Jacl, A., 6733 13th N.W. (7) Jake Way (3) HE 1222 BALLOU, Edna Baker, 4337 15th N.E., Apt. BLAINE, John, 5264 16th N.E. (5) VE 1600 807 (5) MEl0240 BLAINE, Mrs. John (Elisabeth) 5264 16th BALSER, Mary A., 2124 8th N. (9) GA 9253 N.E. (5) VE 1600 BANCALARI, Denise, 4337 15th N.E., Apt. BLAKE, Bruce, 1425 10th W. (99) GA 7352 807 (6) FI 3857, ME 0240 BLAKELY, Carl, Evergreen Point, Bellevue, BANNISTER, Robert E., 4514 3rd N.W. (7) Lakeside 4-7129 ME 4080 BLA)

BRAVEXDER, Joyce, 2939 N. E. 19th Ave., BROWN, ,v miam J., 632 s.w. llOth (66) Portland 12, Oregon LO 8938 BRA.,'1'.:TON, Samuel A., 855 Rainier Hall, BRO'\VNING, Curtis, 418 N. 36th (3) ME 9941 U. of W. (5) ME 9931 (Mail returned) BRUSSO, Gwyneith, 6844 32ncl N.E. (5) BRAZIER, Tom, 822 Queen Anne (9) GA 7549 KE 5536 BREMER�IAN, Glen F., 5834 '\Voodlawn (3) BRYA r, chet, 323511., Fairview N. (2) CA 2775 KE 6904* BRYNESTAD. Kenneth, 855 Rainier Hall, BltEl\IER�IAN, Mrs. Glen J,' ., 5834 Woodlawn U. of W. (5) (Mail returnee!) (3) KE 6904* (5) BUCEY, Boyd K., Rt. 3, Box 293, Bellevue, BRESLICH, Sandra, 3302 E. 70th Lakeside 482-R KE 5026 BUCEY, Mrs. Boyd IC, Rt. 3, Box 293, Belle­ BRE'.L'T, Elizabeth C., 104 14th N. (2) vue, Lak sic! 4 2-R§ GA 7252 BULMER, Robert E., 3630 Magnolia Blvcl. BRETZ, Bertha B., 1213 E. 92ncl (5) VE 0396 (99) GA 5528 BRIKOFF, Paul. 4022 34th S.W. (6) AV 4396§ BULMER, Ron L., 3630 Magnolia Blvd. (99) BRISTOL, Don P., 17212 35th N.E. (55) GA 5528 BROCKMAN, C. Frank, College of Forestry, BURCK.ETT, Douglas M., 89 Washington U. of W. (5) Ave., Cambridge 4, Massachusetts BROCKMAl'<. Jean, 7052 53rcl Ave. N.E. (5) BURKMAN, Elsie, 4225 Williams (99) Bus. KE 7890 (Mail returned) EL 4383 BROCKMA N, William E., 4198 Union Bay BURNETT, Alice. 2205 10th K., Apt. 6 (2) Lane (5) EA 1670. Bus. MA 1080 BROCKMAN, Mrs. "William E. (Mary Jane) BURNETT, Hazel, 1103 E. 55th (5) VE 7719 4198 Union Bay Lane (5) BURNETT, Jo H., 1103 E. 55th (5) VE 7719 BROLIO, Doris Loraine, 14447 Macadam BURNS, Jean Marshall, 646 Washington, Rel. (88) LO 2617 Bremerton, Bremerton 7-3253 BROOKS, , 3002 E. 57th (5) VE 1417 BURR, Jannette W., 8202 14th N.E. (5) BROOKS, Richard J., 3002 E. 57th (5) VE 0817 VE 1417 BURR, Wallace lI., 8202 14th N.E. (5) BRETCHE, Jim, 1024 31st N. (2) PR 4072 VE 0817 BROWN, Eleanor, 1900 E. 47th (5) BURR, Mrs. Wallace H., 8202 14th N.E. (5) BROWN, Eline, 4519 37th N.E. (5) FI 1539 VE 0817 BROWN, Fred, 2343 N. 185th (33) SH 8679 BURROUGH, Suzann , 6042 29th N.E. (5) BROWN, F. Stewart. 4828 Purdue (5) KE 1088 VE 5670 BROWN, Mrs. F.S., 4828 Purdue (5) KE 1088 BURTON. Arthur c.1 Knickerbocker Hotel, BROWN, Marilyn, 1900 F St., Vancouver 7th and Madison (4 1 (Mail returned) BROWN, Robert E., Box 83, Hoquiam, BUSHELL, Don, Jr., 411 Smith (9) GA 0710 Hoquiam 1100 BUSWELL, Joseph �l.. 6821 34th X.W. (7) BROWN, Sally, Box 83, Hoquiam DE 3349, Bus. LA 7300, Local 381+§ 56 l f BUSWELL, 'l\Jrs. Joseph M. (Elenor) 6821 c ER, John Keith, 934 N. lOlst (33) 34th N.W. (7) DE 3349* iu.Ew�� I BUTTERFIELD, A., 1977 Bigelow, CHIDESTER, Mrs. John Keith (Joan) 934 Ave., Olympia N. lOlst (33) KE 8052 BUTTERFIELD, Mrs. Russell A. (Maureen), CHILD, Elsie T., 212 Medical Dental Bldg. 1977 Bigelow Ave., Olympia (1) EL 5359 BUTTERWORTH, Bruce W., 5412 23rd S.W. CHILDRETH, Miss Johnnie, 122 1V'. Crockett (6) WE 7611 (99) AL 4343 BUTTERWORTH, Joan C., 3003 29th W. CHURCHILL, Ruth, 17874 Des Moines Way (99) AL 1851 (88) GL 5887 BUTTERWORTH, Marilyn, 3003 29th W. CL Mabel, 1021 Pine, Apt. 608 (1) (99) AL 1851 s1I's1 fJ"• BUTTON, Robert A., 4120 12th N.E. (5) CLARK, Ann Katheryn, · 2715 10th N. (2) EV 2014 CA 1909 BUZZETTI, Bea, 1526 8th St., Bremerton, CL yron, 13052 10th N.E. (55) Bremerton 3-5991 �fsgf BYINGTON, L. D., 236 S. Coronado, Los CL rs. Byron, 13052 10th N.E., Angeles 4, California, Fl 9207** £"J fsgf BYINGTON, Mrs. L. D. (Elizabeth), 236 S. CLARK, Cortlandt T., 920 Federal (2) CA 0980 Coronado, Los Angeles 4, Calif., FI 9207** CL dward M., 6228 26th N.E. (5) :itf�i f CADE, Glen, 7919 Beacon (8) LA 1778 CLARK, Irving M., BeJlevue, Lakeside 387 CADY, Howard, 2532 Royal Ct. (2) PR 3969 CLARK, Leland J., R.F.D. 1, BeJlevue, CA LL, Donald, 5155 Latimer Pl. (5) Lakeside 173 J'f:f6 CLARK, Sterling, 5124 5th N. E. (5) CALDWELL, Janet, 533 30th S. (44) PR 4834 CLAUNCH, Don, 5327 8th N.E. (5) VE 0085 CA LL, Marion, 122 S. 146th (88) , Raymond L., 9075 Seward :c'cf> � Park (8) CALL, Marilyn, 2507 10th W. (99) GA 3635 CLEVELAND, Mrs. Raymond L., 9075 Seward CAMERON, Mrs. H. D. (Phyllis) 3803 55th Park (8) S.W. (6) LA 4443** CLISE, J. W., 1403 Shenandoah Dr. (2) CA.1"'1:PBELL, Thomas T., 906 32nd S. (44)§ CLISE, Sylvia, 1030 39th N. (2) EA 9365 CANTRIL, Mary Grace, Rt. 3, Box 3028, CLOFLIN, Elizabeth F., 128 Willoughby Ave,. Edmonds, Edmonds 1443 Brooklyn 5, N. Y. CANTRIL, Susie, Rt. 3, Box 3028, Edmonds, COATES, Robert W., 4522 E. 60th (5) Edmonds 1443 COATES, Mrs. Robert W. (SteJla), 4522 E. CARKEEK, A. P., Rt. 2, Box 385, BeJlevue, 60th (5) Lakeside 219-M COBB, Lawrence A., 1514 11th W. (99) CARLSON, Albert, Star Rt., Coulee Dam COBERLY, Wallace, 5602 36th S.W. (6) CARLSON, C. G., 2132 W. 97th, DE 4078 WE 9212 CO - D., 1119 32nd S. (44) CARLSON, Mrs. C. G., 2132 W. 97th, DE 4078 :J :i CARLSON, Clarence, Jr., 2132 W. 97th, f�i:t DE 4078 O Margo L., 1119 32ncl S. (44) CARLSON, Signe E., 4407 E. 41st (5) KE 3903 C ff �i:ta CARLSON, Ted W., 6518 18th N.E. (5) COLE, Henry A., Jr., 3305 c'<. 31st, Tacoma KE 3562 (7) PR 2322 CARLSON, Mrs. William R., Fragaria, Wash. COl,EJ\IAN, Lintla J\I., 1203 James, Apt. 305 CARNEY, Elvin P., 1006 Hoge Bldg. (4)* (4) MA 7976 CARPENTER, Fred R., Rt. 2, Box 495, COLLINS, Dan E., 712 34th (22) PR 5931 Kirkland CO · Frank H., 3404 Alpine Pl. (5) CARPENTER, Mary Jane, Rt. 2, Box 495, :ii\Y:I� lUrkland COLLINS, Mrs. Frank H. (Jean) 3404 Alpine CARR. WiJliam P., 5018 19th N.E. (5) Pl. (5) FI 0140 VE 6288 COLLINS. George F., 2448 Eastmont Way C Carolyn, 2527 27th w. (99) (99) AL 3502 A1ts��7 COLLINS, Mrs. George F. (Enid M.) 2448 CA , Mary H., 503 W. Prospect (99) Eastmont Way (99) AL 3502 G��:n 2 COLLINS, Robert, 12001 Des Moines Way CA Marilyn G., 7704 21st N.W. (7) (88) GL 9600 Jt:Ji 'frk CO · Stan, 1029 Summit N. (2) CA 1arianne, 5715 29th X.E. (5) j,°'ff'la�iJ' J� 1f2l CO ON, Richard, 915 20th N. (2) CASSELS, Colleen, 4953 Purdue (5) KE 7818 �Jt?fl C IN, Mrs. Anne, 546 Ravenna (8) CC '°" James M., 2801 Elmore (99) 1;JJ�J5t �fi i?1lfs CASTOR, Alita J., 6536 53rd N.E. (5) VE 8264 CONNER, Mrs. James M. (Agnes F. ) 2801 CA Robert L., 6536 53rd N.E. (5) Elmore (99) GA 6096 .JJ�?h CONNER, Peggy, 1218 Terry (1) SE 5879 CASTOR, T. Davis, 6536 53rd N.E. (5) C ' f' James, 2712-A 60th s.w. (6) VE 8264**§ �{ z�f2 CASTOR, Mrs. T. Davis (Marion P.) 6536 CO Albert A., 6703 Fremont (3) 53rd N.E. (5) VE 8264 �f.f/i} CAVENDER, Phyllis, 1206 E. 50th (5) CONWAY, Mrs. T. R., 3212 S.E. Crystal KE 8012, Bus. EL 6710 Spring.s Blvd., Portland 2, o,·egon CEDERQUIST, Anne, 6910 15th N.E. (5) COOK, Gordon, Ephrata, Ephrata 343-W VE 7139§+ COOPER, C. Claire, 906 Terry (4) EL 3499 CEHRS, Charles H., c/o Engrg. Dept.. Fresno c LL, Robert s., 6256 Vassar (5) StatE' CoJlege, Fresno 4, California+§ qr: rJ-:: P CER Ruth, 1120 Lakeside S. ( 44) COPERNOLL. Mrs. Robert S. (Betty) 6256 FJJ�h Vassar (5) KE 1071 CHALFANT. Margarete E., 5514 31st N.E. CO G orge, Jr., 1503 28th w. (99) (5) VE 7821 �il'ii16 CHALUPNY, Wm. J., 4319 Ferdinand (8) COSGROVE, Carolyn, 2120 Pa1·k Rd. (5) RA 2923 COSGROVE, Dorothy E., 922 5th S.E., Auburn. Auburn 9 C1b RS, Doris L., 2420 Broadway x. (2) l� f� COSGROVE,)<. Mrs. R. 0. (Peggy Bates) 4308 C1f, 'ER, Barbara Jean, 538 K. 72nd (3) Jerry, Baldwin, California§ 1fa1 �i 7 COSTELLO. :i\ lrs. W.J., 316 W. 3rd, Cle Elum, CHAPMAN. Miss E. L., Rt. 2, Box 2398, Ecl- Phone 150 n s Winter Address, 1105 6th Ave. (1) COULTER, Edwin F., #33 Hillside Trailer EL l7 4;8 Camp, Coulee Dam CHARBONNIER, Francis M., 5008 22nd N.E. COWELL, Alice, 1404 E. 42nd (5) ME 4744 (5) VE 6881 COWLEY, Joseph Greenleaf, 2210 E. Lynn CHETLAIN, Arthur Louis. 4123 Lake Wash­ (2) PR 5228 ington Blvd. (22) RA 4128 COX, A. H., 33rd and E. Alder (22) EA 7714, CHETLAIN, Joanne, 4123 Lalrn Washington Bus. MA 1121 Blvd. (22) RA 4128 CO ey K., 502 Bellevue K., Apt. G (2) � ��t CHETLAIN, Marcia, 4123 Lake Washington S 9 1 Blvd. (22) RA 4128 CRABILL, John W., 7253 28th .E. (5) CHEZUM, Margaret, 815 W. Armour (99) VE 4568§ 57 CRABILL, Mrs. John W. (Catherine) 725!l 28th N.E. (5) VE 4568§ CRAFT, Bill, Connor, Montana RAFT, Mrs. Bill, Connor, Montana CRAIG, R. W., 1921 33rd S. (44) PR 4039§ CRAIG, Robert W., 929 Oxford St., Berkeley, California. CRAIG, Mrs. Robert W. (Marion R.) 929 Oxford St., Berkeley, Califomia CRAM, Robert W., Jr., 5326 9th N.E. (5) VE 8209 CRI'l'TENDEN, A. L., Bagley Hall, U. of W. (5) ME 0630, Ext. 575 CROOK, C. G., 6127 N. Williams Ave., Portland 11, Oregon CROOK , James William, 14 27 ¥., E. N"orth­ lake (5) ME 2539**U§ CROPLEY, Malcolm L., 4102 2nd N.W. (7) ME 8898 CROSS. H. L. (Bill) Box 401. Midway CUNNINGHAM, Francis, 1334 Terry (1) MA 6323 P. J. PERRY & CO. CUN:S.'1:.'

OAKLEY, June, 5261 16th N.E. (5) KE 4223 OAKLEY, Mary, 5261 16th N.E. (5) KE 4223 • OBERG. John E., 1615 8th (1) O'BRIEN, Mrs. Adelaide M., 4927 5lst S. (8) RA 1608 (1) 111 Cherry Street O'BRIEN, Morgan J., 804 Summit OCHSNER, Louis F., Y.M.C.A., 909 4th (4) MA 5208, Bus. SE 4352, Ext. 231* SEATTLE 4, WASHINGTON OCHSNER, l\Iortin, 7750 9th S.W. (6) WE 7278§ OCHSNER, l\lrs. l\Inrtin (Florence) 7750 9th S.W. (6) WE 7278§+ OGILVIE, Ellis, 5529 27th N.E. (5) PARADIS, Marion 1012 N. 41st (3) ME 3964 OGILVIE, l\Jrs. Ellis (Faye) 5529 27th PARKER, William E., 2812 4th W. (99) N.E. (5)*§ PARKHURST, Robert D., 824 N. K St., OHRMAN, Clyde W., 3933 15th N.E. (5) Tacoma (3) MA 1727 EV 1597 PARKS, Winton, 6837 19th N.E. (5) KE 2492 OLDFIN, Teel, 1208 10th W., Apt. C-6 (99) PARKS, Mrs. Winton (Glenna Lou) 6837 19th AL 2974, Bus. MA 5336 N.E. (5) KE 2492 OLIGER, Al S., 814 Columbia (4) SE 9749 PARRISH. La Verne, 9512 Phinney (3) OLIVER. Ivadell Dean, 9052 9th S.W. (6) DE 4982 WE 8805 PARSONS, Harriet T., 2901 Broderick St., OLIVER, Kathleen E., 518 N. 62ncl (3) San Francisco, California** VE 1799 PARSONS, Harry V., 3817 42nd K.E. (5) OLSEN, Anna Margaret, 4011 Meridian (3) VE 9197 ME 4103 PARSONS, Reg(1)inald H. 2300-2305 Northern OLSEN, A.xel, Rt. 3, Box R-109, Auburn Life Tower EL 2874 OLSEN, Mrs. Axel, Rt. 3, Box R-109, Auburn PASCHALL, Patience, Rt. 1, Box 1395, Brem­ OLSON, Clarence A., 8102 Latona (5) e,·ton Bremerton 8035-J-l KE 6520 PATCHIN, Audrey M., 6521 Greenwood (3) OLSON, Don L., 2711 E. 107th (55) SH 6485+ HE 2128 OLSON, Hazel, 1428 Queen Anne, Apt. 107 PATERSON, John, 2009 Nipsic, Bremerton, (9) GA 1543 B1·emerton 3653-M§ OLSTROM, Velma, 3823 Burke (3) ME 8160, PATERSON, Mrs. John, 2009 Nipsic, Bremer­ Bus. GA 7950 ton, Bremerton 3653-M ONSUM, Thomas A., 17522 33rd N.E. (55) PATER"ON, Richard G., 9818 5th N.E. (5) EM 6384 KE 4290 ORLOB, Margaret C., 6716 37th S.W. (6) PATERSON, Mrs. Richard G. (Kay) 9818 5th AV 2890 N.E. (5) KE 4290 ORR. Peter, 6714 1st N.W. (7) SU 5088 PATERSON, Walter D., 7200 28th N.W. (7) OSBJORNSON, Amy, Box 118, Port Blakely, HE 1382 Port Blakely 327-J-2 PATERSON, Mrs. Walter D. (Do1·othy J.) OSBORNE, William W., Poultry Prod. Div., 7200 28th N.W. (7) HE 1382 vVestern Regional Research Lab., Albany PATELLI, Giuseppe G., 524 22nd N. (2) 6, California EA 6619 OSGOOD, Anne L., 1404 E. 42ncl (5) Bus. PATRICK, Lawrence L., 4136 Woodland ME 0630. Ext. 2607 Park (3) OSTERHOUT, Glenn B., Jr., 5711 E. 77th PATRICK, Mrs. Law1·ence L. (Grace W.) (5) VE 3138 4136 Woodland Pa1·k (3) OSTERHOUT, Mrs. Glenn B., Sr., 5711 E. PATTEN, William T .. Jr., 3856 41st S. (8) 77th (5) VE 3138 PATTEN, Mrs. William T., Jr. (Elizabeth B.) OSTERHOUT, Jane, 5711E. 77th (5) VE 3138 3856 41st S. (8) OSTROTH, Geo. P., 1726 46th S.W. (6) PAUL, C. Pa1·ker, 3415 Perkins Lane (99) OSTROTH, Mrs. George Paul (Jean) 1726 AL 5052 46th S.W. (6) WE 8749 PAULCENE, Henry M., Jr. 910 4th K. (9) OTT, Hans W., Rt. 3. Box 393-F, Bellevue AL 2164 OVERBY, Shirley, 2514 Magnolia Blvd. (99) PAULSON, Charlotte, 4744 9th N.E. (5) GA.2103 ME 4073 OWEN, Bernice, 7038 Ravenna N.E. (5) PAVELICH. Katherine, 505 E. Denny Way, VE 8828 Apt. 2 (22) OvVEN. Mrs. Henry B., 1409 39th N. (2) PAYNE. Dwayne H., 5004 17th K.E. (5) EA 8618 KE 4400 OZANICH, Olga J., 1743 Boylston (22) PAYNE, Tom. 4527 18th N.E. (5) KE 4654 CA 9562 PEABODY, Lilly L., 701 12th N. (2) CA 6843 PEARMAN, Horace C., 16 Comstocl, (9) PAGEJ, Don. 4703 18th N.E. (5) KE 9729, GA 3313 Bus. MA 2000 PEARSON, Conrad L., Jr. 1530 16th N. (2) PAGE, Nancy, 10316 Lakeshore Blvd. (55) EA 5037 (1) KE 4985 PEARSON, Erik Arvil, 708 Stewart PALMASON, Dr. Edward, 911 N. 8lst (3) PEARSON, E. H., 2224 Calhoun (2) EA 7669 SU 3262, Bus. SU 7580 PEARSON, Mrs. E. H., 2224 Calhoun (2) PALMASON, Mrs. Edward, 911 N. 81st (3) EA 7669 SU 3262 PEARSON. Marion R., 1509 9th Ave., Apt. 21 PALMER, Elbert C., 7316 22nd N.E. (5) (1) EL 2403 KE 7154 PEARSO , Russel A., Jr., 2707 Belvidere (6) PALMER, Mrs. Elbert C., 7316 21st N.E. (5) AV 2521 KE 7154 PEASLEE, Monroe, 1515 Fairview N. (2) PANZICA, Eleanor, 3721 38th S. (44) RA 762n CA 9464 66 PEDERSEN, Howard, 2823 Golden Dr. (7) QUICK, Robert H., 6 Hutchison St., Cam­ SU 6619 bridge, Massachusetts PEDERSEN, Mrs. Howard, 2823 Golden Dr. QUICK, Mrs. Robert, 6 Hutchison St., Cam­ (7) SU 6619 bridge, Massachusetts PEDERSEN, James, 2823 Golden Dr. (7) QUIGLEY, Agnes E., 3433 Claremont (44) SU 6619 RA 4506 PEDERSON, Howard A;:, Rt. 1, Box 100, Maple Valley, Maple valley 2-4752 RABEL, Leigh, 1915 Interlaken Blvd. (2) PEDERSON, Mrs. Howard A. (Maxine) Rt. 1, PR 7768 Box 100 Maple Valley, Maple Valley 2-4762 RAE, Helen Ethel, 4519 12th N.E. (6) PERRY, Carroll, 2016 E. 105th (55) VE 120G ME 0469 PERRY, Helen Julia, 906 Terry (4) RAINE, Shirley E., 1215 Franklin (2) CA 4933 PERRY, P. J., White-Henry-Stuart Bldg. (1) RALSTON, Jerry, 4605 50th S. (8) RA 16a6 SE 2060** RAMSDELL, Gladys E., 69 Cambridge Rd., PERRYMAN, Charlotte E., 2832 27th W. (99) Madison 4, Wisconsin AL 6889 RAM SEY, Lynn W., 5221 17th N.E. (5) PETERS Don, Rt. 1, Box 6390, Issaquah, KE 9968 Lakesiae, 386-J RANDALL, E., Gen. Del., Lynnwood PETERS, Mrs. Don (Marjorie) Rt. 1, Box RA.KKIN, Katherine11 1 Ann, Arlington Apts., 6390. Issaquah, G.Lakeside, 386-J 1ns PETER , Robert 9013 Seward Park (8) Rf:PhiiI-:1l f� N. 60th (3) SU 2572 LA 9109 RASMUSSEN, Mrs. Wally (Ruth T. ) 5035 E. PETERS, Mrs. Robert G., 9013 Seward Park 178th (55) (8) LA 9109 RASl\WSSEN, Mrs. Robert (Barbara Martin) PETERSON, Bernice, 2203 California, #106 2647 36th W. (99) AL 1634, Bus. MA 4701 (6) AV 3864 RASMUSSEN, Walt P., 6747 24th N.W. (7) PETERSON, Gladys, 2203 California, #106 RASMUSSEN, Norman, 3212 E. 70th �5) (6) AV 3864 VE l 23 PETERSO , Kenneth, Jr., 1714 37th Ave. RATCLIFFE, Ruth, 6620 40th S.W. (6) (22) PR 5694 WE 1646 PETRICH, Ray, 1902 6th N. (9) AL 2706§ RATCLIFFE, Tom, 3700 Cascadia (44) PETRICH, Mrs. Ray (Dorothy) 1902 5th N. RA 6460 (9) AL 2706 RATHBUN, Walter R., Rt. l, Box 619, M 1·cer PETRIE, John P., 3210 W. 74th (7) SU 1989 Island, AD 7462 PFISTERER, Elsa, 2612 W. 56th (7) RATHBUN, Mrs. Walter R., Rt. 1, Box 619, HE 6497* Mercer Island, AD 7462 PHERSON, Marian, 1431 35th S. (44) RATHVON, Ellen C., 1928 3rd W. (99) PR 1043 GA 8354 PHILIPS, Calvin, Jr., 605 Spring (4) RAWLINGS, Mrs. F. F., Jr. (Winifred Green) PHILLIPS, Rosemary G., 747 21st r. (2) 1013 E. 43rd (5) EA 4575. Bus. Ml 1300 RAUEN, Verna,Howar 9344d L.,Fauntleroy (6) PIEHL, Marion, 4727 59th S. (8) RA 7197 RAYMOND, 5559 34th N. E. (5) PIEROTH, Mary, 1609 Peach Ct. (2) EA 636:! KE 3177§ PIGOTT, Betty Beff, 19804 18th S. (88) RAYMOND, Robert G., 5559 34th ::st.E. (5) LO 5642 KE 3177 PISK, Lisbeth,H. 6232Wilf ord,34th 1 .E. (5) VE 7674 RAYMO D, Mrs. Robert G., 5559 34th N.E. PLAYTER, 3042 E. 94th (5) (5) KE 3177 VE 5699 RAYMOND, S. Edward, 202 18th cs'. (2) PLUMMER, Ira E., Drawer #1, Ballard EA 8478 Station (7) REABER, Carolyn, 6709 Phinney (3) SU 7506 PIONSKY, Mrs. R. O. (Margaret) 2310 READ. William (Bili) Jr., 6207 25th N.E. (5) G'raham (8) RA 2674 N. KE 8831 POBST, David L., 705 lOlst (33) KE 2159 RECORDS, Spencer M., 3607 E. Alder (22) POHLE, Gertrude M., 4311 12th N.E., Apt. PR 5791 308 (5) EV 0978 REDMA� Bili, 1417 9th W. (99) GA 5418 POLITZER, Helen, 1110 University (1) REEBS, v

WARNSTEDT, Mrs. Herman C. (Phyllis), WICHlVIAN, Arthur, 956 18th N. (2) EA 0085 2851 W. 59th (7) DE 2724§ ·w:fu1Ho�fs1'1 , Mrs. Arthur, �56 18th N. (2) w��fs· Robert B. II, 6209 17th N.E. (5) WICKS, Pauline, 1414 E. Harrison (2) I WARREN, William E., Jr., Rt. 4, Box 2501, ME 2a07 Bremerton, 800-J3. WICKS, Tim, 9621 54th S. (8) RA 9141 WARRE , Mrs. William (Dorothy), Rt. 4, WICKSTROM, A..x el, 102 N. 77th (a) SU 2721 Box 2501, Bremerton, 8006-J3 WIDRIG, Diana, 1515 Lakeside s. (44) James E., 1708 Hanford St. (44) P.R0539 w::s6�fo WIDRIG, Ralph, 1515 Lakeside S. (44) WASSON, Mrs. James E., 1708 Hanford St. PR 05a9 (44) FR 6290 WIDRIG, Richard, 2714 34th S. (44) RA 1495 WATSON, Dwight, 15 Ward St. (9) GA 6073, WILDl!:, Doris, 1519 E. Madison t22) Bus. PR 4114 CA 6658§ WATTERS, Gloria J., 7124 44th S.W. (6) WILKE, lielen vV. , 1709 Northern Life Tower AV 0023 (1) MA a444 WEBB, Dorothy Marie, 1701 2nd N. (9) WILL, Douglas J., 11519 87th S. (88) RA 4707 AL 8436 WILLEMIN, Wm. s .. 5541 a5th N.J!,. (5) WEBB, Maxine L., 3436 61st S.W. (6) KE 742a AV 1538 THIRTY-NINE-Mountaineers lh 10-26 .... WEBER, Marietta, 3219 Benton Pl. (6) WILLIAMS, Doris N., 510 Broadway (22) AV 6884 EA 9773 WEBER, R. W., 5503 16th N.E. (5) VE 5172§ WILLIA IS, Paul M., 12037 7th N.W. (77) , Alice E., Rt. 2, Vashon, 3200§ EM 6988 WEGENER, Helen H., Rt. 2, Vashon, 3200§ WILLIAMSON, Esther, 1102 8th Ave. (1) WEIDE, Marilyn, 4423 5th N.E. (5) ME 8959 WILLNER, George, 3440 62nd S.W. (6) WEINGART, Alfred F., Box 217, Burien AV 9669, Bus. l,;L 6134 WE Mary, 2803 Mt. St. Helens Pl. (44) WILLNER, Mrs. George, 3440 62nd S.vV. (6) rJ.'.�f,?} AV 9669 WELSH, Chuck, 3122 Portage Bay Pl. (2) WILSON, Christina G., 2132 2nd Ave. (1) CA 2889**§+ Sl!: 7835 WEL H, Norman, 3122 Portage Bay Pl. (2) WILSON, Doris S., 4346 6th N.E. (5) ME 1874 CA 2889+ WILSON, Mrs. Elton C. (Harriet) 346 E. 54th WENNER, Blanche H., Women's University (5) KE 6481 Club (4) EL 3748 WILSON, Joseph W., 9006 Fauntleroy (6) WERTZ. Wilbur H., 531 N. 78th (3) HE 5570 WE 3722 WESCHE, Armand, 1200 Allen Pl. (3) WILSON, Patrick 0., 510 vV. Crockett (99) ME 9354 GA 6357 WESSEL, David, 103 If., S. 4th Ave., Bozeman, vVILSON, William C., Jr., 5231 KirJ{\vood Pl. Montana (3) ME 2216 WESSEL. Mrs. David, 103¥., S. 4th Ave., WILTSE, Mrs. P. T., 2601 46th S.W. (6) Bozeman, Montana WE 6965 WESSEL, Roy w·., 1812 37th N. (2) Bus. WIMPRESS, Doris, 9685 51st S. (8) RA 75H EL 7600, Ext. 135§ WIMPRESS, John K., 9685 5lst S. (8) WESSEL, Mrs. Roy W., 1812 37th N. (2) RA 7514 WEST, Barbara Jean, 6532 Seward Park Ave. WINDER, Arthur, 11512 1st l\'.W. (77) (8) RA 5505 EM 1674, Bus. SE 1700, Ext. 34**Ht WE T, Hubert .., 6532 Seward Park Ave. (8) WINDER, Mrs. Arthur, 11412 1st N.W. (77) RA 5505 EM 1674 WEST, Mrs. Hubert S. (Blanche), 6532 Sew­ WING, Wm. E., Jr., 16229 Maplewild (66) ard Park Ave. (8) RA 5505 LO 7276 WEST, Victoria N., 5930 Wilson Ave. (99) WINKLER, Wm. F., 813 29th S. (44) PR 9785 RA 3461 vVINSHIP, Florence S., 159 E. Ontario, WESTBO, Bob, 2611 29th W. (99) GA 5593 Chicago 11, Illinois WESTBO. William, 2611 29th W. (99) WISEMAl'<, Paul W., Employment Security GA 5593 Dept., Old Capitol Bldg., Olympia, office : WESTCOTT, Mrs. Bear!, 1218 Terry Ave. (4) a385 SE 4288 (Mail returned) WITTE, Don, 4626 Eastern (3) ME 2400 WESTIN, Alvin E., 1624 41st N. (2) Ml 0036§ WOLFE, Katherine A., 907 E. 72nd (5)*§ WESTPHAL, Pauline, 3924 niversity vV OLFE. Sophia M., 3615 Densmore (3) Way (5) ME 5393 WHEELER, Joan, 5020 11th N.E. (5) WOOD, Everette M., 9028 17th S.vV. (6) VE 9140 (Mail returned) WOOD, Marian, 503 1 t W. (99) AL 0488, WHEELWRIGHT, Elizabeth, King County Bus. EL 1292 Hosp. (4) MA 6886 WOODARD, James, 2328 Walnut (6) AV 5196 WHELLER, Marcella, 1218 Terry, SE 5879 WOODWARD, John, 6838 47th N.E. (5) WHIPPLE. Evarts W., 315 Summit N. (2) VE 4728 WHIPPLE, Mrs. Evarts (Anne S.), 315 WOODWARD, John, 815 W. Galer (99) Summit N. (2) AL 3413 WHITE, Abbie Jane, 261 E. Boston (2) WOODWARD, Mrs. Ross E., 815 W. Galer EA 1449, Bus. SE. 3288 (99) AL 3413 WHITE, Don R., 9660 47th S.W. (6) WOOLSEY, Alfred F., Jr., 925 11th N. (2) WfJl.�� uth Loraine, 1616 3ri N. (9) EA 4999 4f WOOLSTON, Mrs. Howard, 1307 E. Boston �l_���r D, Leigh, 2919 Fairview N. (2) (2) CA 2434 WOOLSTON, Marian, 1307 E. Boston (2) W T • Richard L., 8406 Island Dr. (8) CA 2434 �U. l.ff

TACOMA MEMBERSHIP AARESTED, Gunhilcl, 431 Broadway, Apt. DRUES, Joan, 922 X. Ainsworth (6) MA 6282 608 (3) MA 8206 DRUES, Richard, 922 X. Ainsworth (6) ALBRECHT, Bob, 622 S. Grant (6) MA 350-1 MA 6282 ALLARD, John, 2605 S. 13th (6) BR 4788 DUPUIS, Marie, 1427 S. 56th (8) GA 8018 ALLEN, Jack, 1018 S. Jay (3) Bus. MA 2065 ALLEN, Mrs. Jack (Mary Caroline) 1018 S. ENGER, Otto R., 10501 Brooklane S.vV. (U) Jay (3) BR 0564 LA 9339 ALTES, Milclrecl E., 802 N. Pine (6) PR 7220 EWIKG, 0. D., 1942 Fawcett (3) MA 2646 A s NG, Helen T., 301 N. 5th (3) �11 ;rn- ? E"%T f rs. 0. D. (Elsie) 1942 Fawcett (3) 64W BAIR, Julia, 3510 N. Mason (7) PR 3759 FASIG, Lester H .. 1212'1:, N. 4th (3)tt BALCH, Donna, Rt. 5, Box 235, Puyallup F R ugene R., 5120 N. Highland (7) BALCH, Dons, Rt. 5. Box 235, Puyallup 1=,1f:i. �Jf B lius, 802 14th S.E., Puyallup, 6 1,� �;.; �f/j f FAURE, Mrs. Eugene (Elizabeth Ames) 5120 5 9 N. Highland (7) PR 6450 BATE, Dayrell, AVC Bate D.L. AD 19367757 FAURE Suzanne, 2444 R 72ncl, Chicago, Ill. Class 51C, BS. PHIL TR. GR., Connaly E FEAifraa=rn, Raymond, 618 E. 35th ( 4) A.F.B., Waco, Texas B BENJAMIN, Rial, 2036 Tacoma Rel., FEATHERS. Mrs. Raymond (Winifred) 618 Puyallup, Phone 5-8269 E. 35th (4) BR 3346 BENJAMIN, Mrs. Rial (Frances) 2036 FITCH, R. Louise, 511 c'<."C" (3) BR 9448 Tacoma Rel ., Puyallup FITZWILLIAMS, Nancy, Annie ,vright Sem- BWf�ifLD, Monica E., 1103 S. "G" (3) inary (3) BR 2205 BICKFORD, Richard F., P. O. Box 688 FOLTZ. Laura A., 3710 Spokane (4) GA 3918 Centralia FORRESTER. Betty, 29 St. Helens, Apt. 6 (3) BOE, Alice, 1007 6th Ave. (3) MA 0477 FRASER. Alice, 4015 N. 25th (7) PR 1438 BOND, Alice C., 620 N. "C" (3) BR 9192 J,' REDERICI{, Walker Y., 7712 Golden Givin BONDY, Fercl, 1916 S. Washington (6) Rel., GR 764 l§tt PR 7878 FREDERICK, Mrs. Walker (Fern) 7712 BQNDY, Mrs. Fercl (Gretchen) 1916 s. vVa sh- Golden Givin Rel., GR 7641 mgton (6) PR 7878 FRIES, Mary A .. 3809 N. 35th (7) PR 3653 BltANDES, Ray, Rt. 2, Box 148,. Belle,·ue FULLER, Jean H., 3021 c'<.28 th (7) PR 4026 Bl • l\Irs. Ray (Mimi) Rt. 2, Box 148, �l'!,��.!: GALLAGHER, Ja,·k, Dash Point, YU 9287 BROWN, Amalee, 3716 N. 26th (7) SK 2405 G�Lti_tfER, Betty Lou, 3601 K. 36th (7 J BROWN, Jordan F., Rt. 9, Box 752-J BROWN, Mrs. Jordan (Alice) Rt. 9, Box 752-J GALLAGHER, Joseph, 3601 N. 36th (7) BROWN, Phyllis, 3606 N. 16th (6) PR 1041 SK 2185 BROWNE, Charles B., 1022 S. Peabody, Port GALLAGHER, Leo, 3601 N. 36th (7) Angeles, Phone 892-W SK 2185*tt GALLAGHER, Mrs. Leo (Katherine) 3601 N. B�W t :ernacline, 806 s. Proctor (6) oG 36th (7) SK 2185 BUDIL, Elwood. 806 S. Proctor (6) PR 6066 GARNER, Clarence A., 314 N. Stadium Way BUDIL. Mrs. Elwood (Nita) 806 S. Proctor (3) MA 7026t t Bus. MA 3890 GARTRELL, Acla May, 3304 N. 8th (6) BUDIL, Marlene, 806 S. Proctor (6) PR 6066 PR 6119 BUNNELL, Jean, Annie Wright Seminary GENTA, Nicola R., 404 N. Tacoma (3) (3) BR 2205 MA 0829 GEPHART, Ruth, 323 c'<. "I" (3) BR7545 CA:.\IERO�, Crissie, 805 N. Jay (3) MA 5231 GJUKA, Earl, Rt. 3, Box 343-B. WA 7284§ CARLSON, William R. , Fragaria, Wash. GJUKA, Mrs. Earl (Charleen) Rt. 3, Box CARPER, Robert T., 11280 Marine View Dr. 343-B. WA 7284 S.W., Seattle (66) LO 3050 GOET'.l.'LING, Robert F., 810 N. Sheridan (3) CARTER, John W., 3909 N. 14th (6) MA 5931t PR 4564§tt GOETTLING, Mrs. Robert (Ma,tha) 810 c'<. CASEBOLT, G. Clifford, 714 N. Sheridan (6) She1·idan (3) MA 5931 CASEBOLT, Mrs. G. Clifford (Marjorie) 714 GOODMAN, Eclith G., 3959 15th N.E., Seattle c'<.Sheridan (6) (5) ME 9867tt§ CHAMBERS. J. Mae, 801 s. "G" (3) BR 1967 GOODMAN, Keith D., 1120 E. 70th (4) CHRISTY, Mary A., 4715 19th N.E.. GA 8815 Seattle (5) GOODMAN. Mrs. Keith (Frances) 1120 R CLARK, Lella, 103 Cambridge Apts. (3) 70th (4) GA 8815 COLE, Henry A., Jr.. 3305 N. 31st, PR 2322 GOODMAN, Marjorie l\I., 1120 E. 70th (4) COLE, Mary B., 3104 N. 27th (7) PR 5501 GA 8815 GRIGGS, Chauncey, 514 K. "D" (3) BR 5227 COfu� IJ;i•;gi1 A., 1142 Market (3) MA 3346. C Mrs. Freel (Ruth) 1142 Market (3) HAAGEN, Kenneth, 4017 Fawcett (8) OffJf15 GA 3544 Effie Annie, 933 S. Sheridan (6) VE, Dorothy, 3606 N. 16th (6) CUll�l!'s �W fo�f HAND, Amos, 1942 Fawcett (3) MA 2646 DAVIES, David A., 2129 Mountain View Blwl. HAUCK. Hazel M., c'<. Y. State College of (6) PR 1640 Home Econ .. Ithaca, N. Y. DENTON, Frank, 1320 S. Trafton (6) HANSON, Mrs. Roselyn T., 621 1st W., Apt. MA 8610 103, Seattle (99) DOAN, Charles E .. 3208 S. 66th (9) HI 3833 HEATOc'<, Carl E., 3414 N. 26th (7) PR 7601 DODGE, FlorerH'C F., 5201 S. "I" (8) GA 7604 HEATON, Carl E., Jr., 3414 N. 26th (7) DODGE. Thomas E., 3325 N. 31st (7) PR 7601 PR 5332tt HERTZBERG, Anna L., 320 Golden Gate, DODGE, Mrs. Thomas (Ethel) 3325 c'<. 31st Fircrest (3) PR 9555 (7) PR 5332tt HOWIE. Helen K., 86 Grant, Apt. 22, Denver. DRUES. Edward, 922 N. Ainsworth (6) Colorado MA 6282§ DRUES, Dr. I. A. 922 N. Ainsworth (6) JACKSON. Ann E., 1712 S. 57th (8) GA 2682* MA 6282§ JACKSON, Hany, 1501 N. Cedar (6) PR 5269 DRUES, Mrs. I. A. (Bess) 922 N. Ainsworth JACKSON. Mr . Hany (Velma) 1501 N. (6) MA 6282 Cedar (6) PR 5269 72 lI I" JACKS0::-1', Ralph, 9316 Washington Blvcl. RAVER, Floyd ::>I., 501 Perkins Bldg. (2) S.W. (9) LA 2688 BR 3344tt§ .I J DD, Norma, 3716 N. 26th (7) PR 7037§t1" RAVER, Lois, 1404 N. Cedar (6) PR 3113§ RENNER, Fred, 2210 N. 27th (7) MA 7672 KELLOGG, Stella, 3940 N. 31st (7) PR 2366t REUTER, Mrs. arl T. (Eleanor) 203 X KELLY, Albert A., 4801 N. 10th (6) PR 4194 Hall, Grangeville, Iclahot KELLY, Mrs. Albert (Haz l) 4801 N. 10th RI SON, Florence, 3102 N. 30th (7) (6) PR 4194 �Nt:fiif KILMER, Charley, 506 S. Jay (3) BR 5593 RICHARDSON, Ing ls, 502 S. "I" (3) KILMER, W. W., 1006 N. "M" (3) MA 8098, BR 7658 1128 Market, MA 9560 RITCHIE, Leroy S., 816 N. Steele (6) ICTLMER, Mrs. W. W. (Inez) 1006 ::-I'. "M" BR 2622tt (3) MA 8098 RITCHIE, Mrs. Leroy (Amy) 816 N. Steele KIMBROUGH, Ada, 704 E. Thomas, Seattle (6) BR 2622 (2) LA 7300, Ext. 395t ROEGNER, Kenneth A., Jr., 612 N. 4th (3) KIZER, R. B., 619 Elizabeth, Sumner MA 1425 h.� ETHE, Luella, 405 6th Ave., Apt. 605, RUSS, ·waiter G .. 3520 N. Gove (7) PR.8762 MA 3039§ RUSS, Mrs. Walter (Ethel M.) 3520 N. Gove (7) PR 8762 LA CHAPELLE, Ed, 205 N. Tacoma (3) MA 2033tt SCANDRETTE, Onas, Fragaria, Wash. LA:XGHA::OI, Marie, 6443 Wildair Rd. (9) SCHEYER, Elwin D., 707 N. Alder (6) LA 3847tt PR 4765 LENHAM, Mrs. Bertha, Annie W1·ight Sem­ SCOTT, Norman, 2411 S. 4 lst (8) GA 8353 inary (3) BR 2205 SCOTT, Mrs. Korman (Helen) 2411 S. 41st LEWIS, Jean Catherine, 3712 ::-I'. 37th (7) (8) GA 8353 PR 4113 SC :i ichard B., 1718 Mountain View (6) LIBBY, Alice L., Rt. 3, Box 349, Olympia, :?J J Ji Phone 4660 SCOTT, Mrs. Richard (Gene M.) 1718 Moun­ LILLY, Jessie I., 417 N. "L" (3) MA 7572 tain View (6) PR 3458 LI UTH, Chester J., 201 N. "I" (3) SENNER, George, 1004 E. 6lst, Seattle, ;f �� r: KE 0610 LITTLE. Willard G., 2219 ::-I'.Washington SENNER, Mrs. George (Gloria) 1004 E. 6lst, (7) PR 6589 Seattle, KE 0510 LONG, Isabel, 232 Quincey Av ., Long SEYMOUR, Mrs. William, 609 N. Chestnut, Beach 3, California Ellen burg LUND, Ture A., Rt. 6, Box 594, YU 9204 SHERRY, Harold, Rt. 4, Box 261, GR 5330 LUND, Mrs. Ture (Callie) Rt. G, Box 594, SHERRY, Mr . Harold (Grace) Rt. 4, Box YU 9204 261, GR 5330 Sil\Il\ION D , Eva, 307 S. 9th (2) MA 3884 MARKER, Martin H., 8406 S. Tacoma \Vay SLADE, Iren , 3516 N. Union (7) PR 6645· (9) LA 9534 SOHLBERG, Helen L., 3009 N. 22nd (7) M H s, J. M., P. 0. Box 5, Tacoma, PR 9393 t& 6�: SPERRY, Lt. Col. Clarence E., Div. Ordinance M UGH, Evelyn, 3021 ::-I'. 28th (7) Officer, AP )Jo. 7. San Francisco, Calif; 1:J,1}'62� STACKER, Arthur A., 1520 Washington M , Fred L., Gen. Del., Parkland, Blclg. (2) MA 6696 �J1 Jf9� STAKDAERT, Geraldine, Rt. 5, Box 5, Kent, F RTY-ONE--Mountaineers lh 10-26 .... Phone 301-M McKAY, Helen, Annie Wright Seminary (3) STANDAERT. Marylyn, Rt. 5, Box 5, Kent, BR 2205 Phone 301-M McKENNEY, Mary L., 308 S. "I" (3) MA 7894 ST. JOHN, Mary L., Annie Wright Seminary McQUARRIE, Frances, 820% s. Lawrence (3) BR 2206 (6) PR 7926 STRAND, Dorothy A., 9509 Veterans D1·. McQUARRIE, Jennie, 820 'h S. Lawrence (6) S.W. (9) LA 3128 PR 7926 ::OIILLER, Maynard, Dept. of Exploration and TASTOR. Walter, 4221 ::-I'. Gove (7) PR 1512 Field Research, Am. Geo. oc .. Broadway THOMAS, Jesse, 410 6th Ave. (6) MA 0050t and 156th, New York City. ::-I'. Y. t§+ THOMAS, Richard C., 231 S. 70th (4) GA 4150 M · Vallace S., Gen. Del., teilacoom, THRELKELD, Earl F., 2605 S. 13th (6) I,� ro8� BR 4788 MOORHEAD. Warren L .. Rt. 5, Box 539, THRELKELD, l\:Cr . Earl (Inez) 2605 S. 13th Puyallup. Phone 5-6334tt (6) BR 4788 MOORHEAD, Mrs. Warren (Vivian) Rt. 5, Box 539, Puyallup, Phone 5-6334 tt VAN DYKE, Ern L., 811% S. "M" (3) MA 3419 :."l'EILAN, Donald, 614 Melrose x .. Seattle (2) VAUGHN, LeRoy, 1019 E. La Brea Dr., [ Inglewood, California N ' C ER, Dorothy, 416 S. "J\I" (3) tX ri�� VAUGHT, Milelr cl, 1319 S. "I" (3) BR 5243 :."l'EWGARD, Ron, 902 S. Cerlar (6) BR 235:J N TT, Jessie Ona, 229 s. 54th (8) W"ALLACE, Mrs. Glenn (Frances) 26 Halsey �,_"E;,_T[f;?JJ St., Astoria, Oregon f ,... WALTERS Pat, 1012 Park Dr. (3) BR. 3855 OG E , rompton H., 784 Commerce (2) WATERS, 1-<.uth L., 814 S. Stevens (6) J>R �4f PR 0450§ OGRE::-1', Clarence A., 1839 Porter, Enumclaw ��1;_�� Roy H., 114 Summit, Fircrest (3) OHLSO- . Theodore R., Y.M.C.A., l\li 3196 WINTERTON, l\i. G., 6847 S. Puget Sound PATRED, Edward F., 604 Chennault AYe., (8) GA 0796 Hoquiam, Phone 589 "\VISLICEl\'US, Brnnhilcle, 3502 N. 29th (7) P , Mrs. Marion, 400 ::-I'. 4th (3) PR 6625tt I�1ffz"'l �i WISLICENUS, Gustav A., 3502 N. 29th (7) POLLOCK. Robert, 1511 Ridgeroad, Shelton PR 6625tt PRICE. Mrs. Irene Ru, 400 ::-I'. 4th (3) BR 9249 WISLICENUS, Mrs. Gustav, 3502 N. 29th (7) PRYOR, Kenneth G., 3815 N. 36th (7) PR 6625 PR 7417tt§ ·woNDERS, Emerson, 1126 Market (3) MA 6202, Bus. 3411 N. 22nd, PR 2250t R Y _ mot, Box 1083, Olympia, WOOD, Agnes, Rt. 11, Box 24 t� i:e 2 ;!J� R.'M'Ttiii'r· Catherine, 426 Broadway (3) YOUNG, Iara H., 2502 S. 40th (8) GA 7548 YOUNG, Ethel M., 3810 . 12th (6) PR 8191 RA l\fU SSEN, Gertrude Snow, 1911 N. Proc- YOUNG, Margaret S., 3810 N. 12th (6) tor (7) PR 5261t PR 8191

73 EVERETT MEMBERSHIP AHRENS, Nada W., 4538 19th N.E., HUDSOX, Mabel C., 2632 Rucker, #34 Seattle (5) , Robert C., Star Rt., MaQ·sville ANDERSEN, Mrs. Rae, 2513 Cedar, CE 2232Ut JESCHKE, "William B., 1609 Fulton, BA 4417 ANDERSEN, William M., 4723 Carleton Rd. JESCHKE, Mrs ..William B., 1609 Fulton, ANDERSEN, Mrs. William M. (Grace) 4723 BA 4417 Carleton Rd. JOHNSOK, Violet, 1317 Rucker, VA 5418 JONES, C. S., 520 Pllchuck Path. BA 0826 BAILEY, Arthur, Monroe, Phone 2401:j: JONES, Mrs. C. S., 520 Pilchuck Path, BAILEY, Bernice E., B ll's Court BA 0826 BAILEY, Josephine G., Rt. 4, Box 522, HI 1598 KNERR, C. L., (Bill) 3617 Federal, BA 7644 B NKS, Harold N., Jr·., 1310 Rucker, KOHNE, Russell A., 3202 Laurel Dr., BA 9516 BA 6853 KOHNE, Mrs. Russell A., 3202 Laurel Dr., BANKS, Nancy Katherine, 1310 Rucker, BA 9516 BA 6853 KROGH, Lee, 5010 Seahurst, BA 9025 BANKS, Wennetta W., 1310 Rucker, BA 6853 BANKS, Winifred S., Providence Hospital LAWRENCE, Louise, 1810 14th, CE 2252 School of Nursing LEHl\IANN, Christi11n H., 3830 Federal, BENSON,...Naomi A., 114 Mukilteo Blvd. BA 7752, Bus. BA 3725Ut BERGE, .Li.ichard Waldon, 2512 Rucker LEIOJANN, John F., 3527 Hoyt, BA 9870t+t BLUEMKE, Fred J., 2209 Virginia. BA 4859 LINDH, Nels O., Box 54-6, Edmonds, BROW , Beulah, 3931 Colby, BA 0513 Edmonds 814 BUELER, Hilda, 1825 RuckertU MATTHEWS. Bruce C., 2608 Rucker, BA 8758 M WS, Mrs. Bruce C., 2608 Rucker, CAMPBELL, Mrs. Bernice Vailey, 116 S. �;._Tg1'ff8 Duluth Ave., Sioux Falls, South Dakota l\IcBAIN, l\Iabel E., Bell's Court, BA 3567, CHAPIN, Charles Edward, 320 West Ave., Bus. A 0535t Arlington McKENZIE, William D., Box 384, Edmonds, CHAPMAN, Kenneth, 3412 Bell, BA 6492Ut Phone 1644 CHURCH, George A., 3007 Hoyt, BA 1371, Bus. CE 1122 PAPRITZ, Jack, Rt. 5, President 2375 COCKBURN, Charles G., Lal,e Stevens, Pl "'· 'iV illiam c., Rt. 1, Lake Ste,·ens, TU 2680 �rJA1� COCKBURN, John F., 4524 19th N.E., Seattle (5) VE 1661 REILLY, John Allan, 2506 Wetmore, BA 4.259 COOPER, Leslie R.� 210 Colby Bldg., CE 1159 REILLY, Mrs. John Allan (Martha S. ) 2506 CORBIN, Noelle, 2u20 Grand BA 5459 Wetmore, BA 4.259 CRAYTON, Catherine, The Mayfair, BA 2469 ROSS, Ralph H., 2332 Wetmore, BA 9393 DAVIS, C. O., 2115 18th St., BA 6484 SCOTT, Celia Mae, 3607 Federal DAVIS, Mrs. C. 0 .. 2115 18th St., BA 6484 SHELDON, C. G., 3711 E. Pima Ave., DOPH, Albert C., 2805 19th St., BA 8129 Tucson, ArizonatU DOPH, Mrs. Albert C. (Adelsa) 2805 19th St., SHOUUOCK, Paul, P. 0. Box 126, BA 8129 Snohomish** DOPH, James, 2805 19th St., BA 8129 SIEVERS, Harold, 1732 ColbytU DOPH, W' illiam S., 2805 19th St., BA 8129 TAYLOR. Jane E., The Clermont, Apt. 308, EASTON, Inez, Granite FallsUt CE 1325 EBERT, Tom, 619 Laurel Dr. THIE, Lawrence H., Coupeville. Bus. BA 8161 EDER, Frank M., 2627 Rucker, BA 04181: THIE, Mrs. Lawrence H. (Mary Louise) EDER, Mrs. Frank M., 2627 Ruclrnr, BA 04181: Coupeville THOMPSO.X, Nan, Madrona Apt., #34, 2632 FELDER, Herman, 716 33rd St., BA 3303§*t Ruclrnr, CE 1887 FELDER, Mrs. Herman (Helen) 716 33rd St., BA 3303 URAX, C. Gordon, Rt. 3, Snohomish. FREED, George J., 4532 3rd St., Phone 4135§Ut URAN, l\I rs. C. Gordon (.Johanna) Rt. 3, HAIN, James 1412 23rd St. Snohomish, Phone 4135**Ut HAIN, Mrs. James, 1412 23rd St. HANSON, Mrs. Roselyn T., 621 1st W., Apt. VAN BROCKLl1 , Dr. H. L., 110 Lewis St., 103, Seattle (99) GA 4051 Monroe HIRMAN, Leona J., 1317 Rucker, BA 5418, Bus. BA 3104 WIDMER, Vivian, 1411 18th St., CE 1780 HOPKINS, William A., Rt. 3, Box 315, Vancouver ZIMMERMAX, Rosa, Madrona Apt.

74 ,I

Climbing Code

A party of three is the recommended minimum for safety.

Carry at all times the clothing, food and equip­ ment necessary. r Rope-up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel.

Keep the party together and obey the leader or majority rule.

Never climb beyond one's ability and knowl­ edge.

Judgment will not be swayed by desire when choosing the route or turning back.

Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person.

Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering as set forth in the Mountaineer's "Climber's Notebook," and "Ski Mountaineering Manual."

75 Seattle, Wa sh., Nov. 10, 1950 THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. Seattle, Washington.

I have examined the books of the Treasurer of The Mountaineers, the Secre­ tary, and the committees and find that they are in good order. Properly author­ ized vouchers accompanied disbursements, all cash receipts were accounted for, and the bank accounts and bonds were in existence as reported. The financial reports were in good order and give a representation of the present financial condition of the club. CHESTER 1. POWELL, Auditor •

SEATTLE UNIT Income and Expense Statement for Year Ending October 31, 1950

INCOME DUES Seatcle $6,806.55 Tacoma ------···------··-··-----·------·------·------S 759.75 Less allocation co Tacoma...... 253.00 506.75 Everett ------·-····---·------·------·-······------$ 216.00 Less allocation co Everett...... 47.00 169.00 7,482.30 Less allocations co publications...... 2,886.00 4,596.30 INITIATION FEES ····------·-·······---·······--­ 999.50 Less allocation co branches ---·····-··········-···- 54.50 945.00 PUBLICATIONS Allocation of dues ------·-·------·- $2,886.00 Cost of annual, 1949------·--·-·····---·······-·-··$1,987. 36 Less advertising income...... 2 51.65 $1,735.71 Cost of monthly bulletins...... 1,685.70 Tora! cost of publications...... 3,421.41 Deficit of allotted dues over cosr...... ( 535.41)

COMMITTEE OPERATIONS Excess of income over expenses Campcrafrers ...... 28 .50 Dance -·········----······---·-·······--·-·······-········ 379.25 Kitsap Cabin ...... 16.36 Meany Ski Hur ...... 697.58 Mr. Baker Cabin ...... 24.52 Players ...... 386.87 Ski ...... 4.21 Snoqualmie Lodge ...... 22.21 Stevens Ski Hur...... 170.56 Summer Outing ------·------·----·---·-··· 870.95 Trail Trips ...... 43.12 Viewfinders ...... 16.90 $2,661.03 Excess of expenses over income Climbing ...... 19.26 Net income-Committee Operations ... . 2,641.77 OTHER INCOME Interest ...... $ 175.00 Emblems ...... 70.70 245.70 TOT AL INCOME ...... $7,893.36

76 I

EXPENSES 1� GENERAL EXPENSES Telephone ...... $ 73.51 Salaries ...... 1,545.00 Rent ...... 1,200.00 Insurance ...... 381.30 Clubrooms ...... 35.35 Miscellaneous ...... 1,178.27 . 4,413.43 DEPRECIATION ...... 1,503.76 TOTAL EXPENSES ...... $5,917.19 NET PROFIT ...... 1,976.19

BALANCE SHEET AS OF OCTOBER 31, 1950 ASSETS CURRENT ASSETS Cash in checking accounts General ...... · 1,159.47 Meany Ski Hut ...... 448.40 Snoqualmie Lodge ...... 94.50 Stevens Hut ...... 46.30 Summer Outing ...... 1,461.79 $ 3,210.46 Savings accounts in Washington Mutual Building Fund ...... 25.85 Reserve ...... 2,550.27 Seymour ...... 235.77 2,811.89 INVESTMENTS Permanent Fund, U. S. Bonds ...... 5,000.00 General Fund, U. S. Bonds ...... 1,000.00 Seymour Fund, U. S. Bonds ...... 1,000.00 . 13,022.35 BUILDINGS AND EQUIPMENT R.eco..ded Allow. for Va lue Depreciation Net Kitsap Cabin ...... 3,194.68 2,773.12 421.56 Meany Ski Hut...... 5,204.68 3,398.26 1,806.42 Snoqualmie Lodge ...... 9,804.19 1,692.46 8,111.73 Stevens Ski Hue...... 2,483.47 495.19 1,988.28 Clubroom Furniture and Fixtures ...... 1,384.12 822.91 561.21 Library ...... 1,850.77 833.79 1,016.98 Motion Picture Equipment ...... 1,096.17 705.79 390.38 General Equipment ...... 1,157.21 397.78 759.43 . 26,175.29 11,119.30 15,055.99 15,055.99 OTHER ASSETS Snoqualmie Pass Land ...... 1,100.00 Climbers' Notebooks ...... 1,228.27 Prepaid Lodge Expenses ...... 1,155.61 TOT AL ASSETS ...... $31,562.22

LIABILITIES AND SURPLUS LIABILITIES Tacoma and Everett share of dues ...... 354.50 SURPLUS Capital Surplus ...... $16,155.99 Permanent Fund Surplus ...... 5,300.00 Seymour Fund ...... 1,235.77 Building Fund ...... 2,300.61 Rescue Fund ...... 50.00 Free Surplus ...... 6, 165.35 31,207.72 TOT AL LIABILITIES AND SURPLUS ...... 31,562.22

77 THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC-TACOMA BRANCH Financial Report from October 1, 1949, to September 30, 1950 RECEIPTS Dues and Membership Refund from Seattle...... $ 295.00 Interest on United States War Bonds ...... 25.00 Sale of Climbing Class Movie Film...... 21.25 Showing of Chrislers Pictures...... 130.58 Social Committee ...... 343.71 Irish Cabin Activity Committee...... 140.28 Irish Cabin Maintenance Committee ...... 11.02 Special Outings Committee...... 3.12 Climbing Committee ...... 17.78 Photographic Committee ...... 6.75 Ski Committee ...... 5.20 $ 999.69 DISBURSEMENTS Bonding of Secretary...... 5.00 Safekeeping of War Bonds ...... 2.50 Irish Cabin Building Committee. .' ...... 382.88 Membership Committee ...... , ...... 5.00 Climbing Committee ...... 28.00 Social Committee ...... 234.51 Ski Committee ...... 10.00 Irish Cabin Insurance...... 55.12 Irish Cabin Taxes ...... 2.61 Nominating Committee Expense ...... 6.98 $ 732.60 ASSETS Cash in Bank of California ...... 732.10 Cash in United States Mutual Bank ...... 1,125.43 Funds retained by Local Walks Committee ...... 14.22 Funds retained by Membership Committee...... 3.06 Two Series ''G'' War Bonds ...... 1,000.00 Property: Irish Cabin ...... 800.00 Irish Cabin Furniture and Fixtures...... 380.21 Club Rooms and Local Walks Property...... 108.19 $4,163.21 LIABILITIES: None Net Worth, Estimated ...... $4 ,163.21

ANN E. JACKSON, T1·east11'e1·

THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC-EVERETT UNIT Financial Report from October 3, 1949, to September 29, 1950 CHECKING ACCOUNT Balance October 3, 1949 ...... $127.46 Receipts: Dues refund, Seattle Branch ...... , 71.00 Trail Fees ...... 15 .00 86.00 Cash Available ...... $213.46 Disb111·seme12ts: Miscellaneous ...... 14.40 Balance Seprember 29, 1950...... $199.06 Investments: Bonds (cost) ...... 370.00 Total Resom·ces ...... $569.06

C. 0. DAVIS, T.-eas11rer 78 I I;.,

(r

r tJ