]l MOUNTAINEER 1950 ,, The MOUNTAINEER 1950 MOUNT ROBSON •••from a forthcoming book by Bob and Ira Spring I• I9J O The MOUNTAINEER Volume 42 DECEMBER 15, 1950 Number 13 Organized 1906 Incorporated 1913 EditOt"ial Board 1950 HELEN McLELLAN, Editor HELEN A. FROBERG MILDRED HOFFMAN Typists and Proofreadet"S LILO BERLINER MARY HOSSACK ELENOR BUSWELL CLAIRE MOCK HILDE M. FROHLICH MRS. LOUIS NASH HAZEL GATES LEE SNIDER Photography Editing BOB AND IRA SPRING Mailing MRS. IRVING GAVETT Subscriprion Price, $2.00 a Year Published and Copyrighted 1950 by THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. Published monrhly, January to November, inclusive, and semi-monthly during December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC., P. 0. Box 122, Seatrle 11, Washington Clubrooms at 523 Pike Street I Entered as Second Class Matter, April 18, 1922 ar Post Office at ) Seattle, Washingron, under rl1e Act of March 3, 1879 31 � THE MOUNTAINEERS, INC. OFFICERS-1951 President, T. Davis Castor Secrelt11')', Mary Anderson CAMERON BECKWITH Vice-President, Treamrer, Phyllis Cavander ELECTED TRUSTEES Terms Expiring October 31, 1951 Terms Expiring Octobe1 31, 1952 Mary Anderson T. Davis Castor Burge Bickford John Hossack Cameron Beckwith Leo Gallagher William Degenhardt Mrs. Irving Gavett Arthur Winder George MacGowan Seattle Committee Chairmen See Monthly Bulletin TACOMA BRANCH President, Keith Goodman Secrelary-Treamrer, Mary Fries Vice-President, Wally Miner Tmstee, John Carter TRUSTEES Norma Judd Walker Frederick Ann Jackson Clarence Garner CHAIRMEN OF COMMITTEES Climbing, Jack Gallagher Membership, Mildred Altes Conservation, Bill Kilmer Music, Irene Slade Dance, John Upham Photographic, Florence Richardson frish Cabin, Floyd Raver P11blicity, Carl Heacon IriJh Cabin Activity, Alice Bond Ski, Lester Fasig Local Walks, Marjorie Goodman Socict!, Stella Kellogg Specict! 011ti11gs, Gene Faure EVERETT UNIT President, Vivian Widmer Treas11rer, C. 0. Davis Secretary, Winnetta Banks Tmstee, Frank Eder CHAIRMEN OF COMMITTEES Local lJ7alks, Adelsa Doph Social, Lee Hirman Program, Nodle Corbin Pttblicity. Louise Lawrence Membership, Frank Eder Skiing, William Doph Banquet, Loleta Jones Table of Contents Page OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES ______________...................................................... 4 A WEALTH OF OPPORTUNITY. .._ .. _ .............................: ..... --·····-·········--····· 7 SWISS ALPINE SKI TOUR ···································································-········ 11 GOOD LUCK ON YERUPAJA_···················-·······················--··-------·········-····· 15 IN MEMORIAM........................ ------·······-································-··········---············ 18 SLIDING MIDDLEMAN TECHNIQUE IN SNOW.................................... 19 RETURN TO MT. ROBSON-1950 ................ ---··········-·-·········---···········---···· 25 CLIMBER'S LULLABY, 1950........................ ---························-···--·-········--····· 29 1950 IN REVIEW- President's Page -·-·····---···--···-···································································· 34 Year in Tacoma ...............................·-············-······-··-··-····························-·· 35 Year in Everett ·······-··-···················································--·····-----·-········-··-··· 36 Third Annual Northwest Mountaineering Conference.··············-·········-····· 3 7 Players ·····················-··-···········-·····-----------··-·······-···········-·······-···················- 38 Climbing Notes ······---·······-··-·-·········-··································-···············-····· 40 Trail Trips from Seattle................ --------·························-·········-··········· ······· 43 Campcrafters ············-·····-····-···-·······-·························································· 44 Skiing ······················································-················································· 46 Foldboating -······················-············································-········-·················· 48 Lodges --··-···-·-···-·················-·-------··-··························--··········-····-··-·····--·-··-· 49 Club Entertainment ···········-····-······························-··················-·····-···-······· 51 PHOTOGRAPHIC NOTES ································-························-·-·········-······ 52 LIBRARY ADDITIONS .................................................................................. 53 MEMBERSHIP ····-···-······---------····-·-··------------·-········--··---·--·-······························· 54 Seattle Roster ··························································································-··· 54 Tacoma Roster ········································································-··················· 72 Everett Roster ····-······················································································· 74 FINANCIAL REPORTS ----·······------···-···-····················-···································· 76 MOUNTAIN SAFETY TIPS ............................... : .........................___ Wolf Bauer I } 5 J I GLACIER 6 A Wealth of Opportunity By ARTHUR R. WINDER ONSERVATION, co use the pat definition, is the preservation and protection of our natural resources, whether it be the soil of the great agricultural regions,C the minerals that come from the earth, the timber resources of our forests, or the products of the sea. Since the viewpoint in this regard is usually colored by gazing strictly through economic eye glasses, generally overlooked by most experts are resources whose shameful Q.eglect has really only just begun co be realized. Those resources are our wilderness areas, and other sections of outstanding natural wonder or beauty set aside in the public interest for park purposes, with their attendant esthetic and recreational values. What man or woman, possessed of any soul, can, for example, stand in the presence of the wonders of our National Parks and not marvel at the forces that have created them, nor fail to thank those farsighted individuals who have been responsible for their preservation, for the eternal delight of the generations ·CO come. Mountaineers are, and by necessity must be, nature preservationists. Their very existence as an organization is dependent upon that fact, for without the wilderness and other reserved areas, there would not be the incentive for outdoor life as we know and love it. And it would be easy for us co beguile ourselves into thinking that there are plenty of such regions for all, but it has been proven time and time again that in the final analysis, we never have enough co meet the increasing demands of a growing population. We will be coo late with too little unless an aroused citizenry will demand its inalienable rights as owners of the public domain to secure adequate reservations for primitive areas and parks before the desired regions have been snapped up by the greedy maw of selfish interests. The wilderness is also a definite factor in the preserva­ tion of our economic life, particularly in the Pacific,Northwest, where we are dependent upon the careful use of our water resources, in that it provides natural controls over natural forces, as well as maintaining a desirable ecological unit. Yet the picture today does not indicate much progress, and in fact we are greatly in danger of actually losing some of the things which have been gained in years past, for once again local and special selfish interests, magnified and distorted all out of proportion co the true national interest, are seeking co destroy one of the fine units of the National Park System, the Dinosaur National Monument. Dinosaur National Monument includes 327 square miles of spectacular canyons in northeastern Utah and northwestern Colorado. Within it is found, also, a dinosaur "quarry," from whence the monument secures its title, Indian archeological remains and an interesting variety of plant and animal life. But it is the scenery which is outstanding and makes this area one of the more beautiful and inspiring units of the National Park System. Through parts of the monument flows the rapid, curving Yampa River, entering from the east, while the Green River enters the area from the north through the wild and spectacular Ladore Canyon. This is a reservation worthy in every respect to be preserved for posterity, as it is the only unit in the National Parks which tells the story of the upper Colorado River. Although the Service has plans for developing the area for public use, so far this has not been undertaken, due to lack of funds. But there now hangs over this monument the sort of threat that increasingly confronts our public reservations. It is the proposal of the Bureau of Reclamation to construct two dams for power and irrigation, at Split Moun- I 7 I j tain and Echo Park. Split Mountain Dam would dry up the Green River for several miles to create a reservoir that could be maintained at a fairly consistent level. Echo Park Dam, which would be 525 feet above the canyon floor level, would inundate the Yampa canyon, flooding geological formations of outstand­ ing value and destroying the beauty and life of the canyon floor. This is no idle threat. A hearing, conducted by Secretary Oscar Chapman, of the Department of the Interior, was held in Washington, D. C., April 3, 1950, and although at that time it was shown that alternate damsites outside the monument area would cost less to build on, store more water and create more electric power, the Secretary made his decision in favor of the