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The Newsletter of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Issue 237 March 2010 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

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The Newsletter of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Issue 237 March 2010 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010 Warp&Weft Contents Contact details 2 Editorial 3 Meetings: December - Competitions 18 February - Lucy Norris 5 Future Meetings 24 Features: Introducing: Prick Your Finger 7 Postcard from Downunder 13 Wetlands Wallhanging 15 Snow and Tell 16 Guild Summer Holiday 23 Regulars: Weave Study Group 10 Spinning Skills-sharing 11 Library News 20 Membership News 21 Guild News 25 AGM 2010 Agenda 28 What's On in Textiles 29 The Newsletter of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Issue 237 March 2010 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010 London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Editorial feature on this London textile artist. And our ‘postcard’ this time comes www.londonguildofweavers.org.uk Today I pulled out the boxes of old from the antipodes, from a recent trip W&Ws that lie stashed in the depths Sonia Tindale made to Australia and President of my cupboard and searched through New Zealand. their yellowing pages for the March Now that winter might finally be Daphne Ratcliffe - [email protected] 020 8997 0291 1963 edition. I was curious about nearly over, there are exhibitions how the Guild coped with that other to entice us on the road again, for Vice Presidents memorable winter. I must confess I example ‘Kaleidoscope’ opening in was also hoping to find that they’d Mansfield on 17 April (details p. 30) Aileen Kennedy had to cancel a meeting too, that and the exciting prospect of a Guild Nancy Lee Child we weren’t just 21st century softies. Summer School in Norfolk (p. 23). Mary Smith Sorry folks, we are! And should we get a freak snowstorm Melanie Venes I quote: 12 January 1963 or two in the coming months, then “In spite of the Siberian weather, a there’s always our exhibition in October Executive Committee: Officers large number packed themselves into and the December competitions (p.26) Room 4 in Church House…” to start working on. Chair - Jenifer Midgley - [email protected] 020 8892 4708 Of course, another explanation may But let’s finish this editorial with the Treasurer - Lola McDowell - [email protected] 020 8749 0923 be that in those days it was just too opening paragraph of the editorial of Secretary - Jane Rutt - [email protected] 0207 580 8583 boring to stay in….no internet, no box W&W March 1963: sets of DVDs and no central heating. “Last quarter, doubtless under the Committee members Trudging through snow was probably benign influence of pre-Christmas preferable to huddling in front of a gas festivities, we tended to wax slightly David Armstrong - [email protected] 020 8399 4832 fire listening to the light programme. lyrical over the signs and portents of Penny Brazier - [email protected] 020 7630 9093 - Fortunately, we will still be able to approaching winter. Alas, the ‘eager Membership Secretary hear the speaker booked for January, nip’ we regarded with such benevolent Roberto Campana - [email protected] 07730 284 258 - as Helga Matos is able to speak at expectancy proved to be a gargantuan Exhibitions Officer our March meeting instead (see p. 24 bite and as we write we are still Brenda Gibson - [email protected] 020 8673 4914 - for details of her forthcoming talk). surrounded by piled –up evidence Webmaster, Design & Layout of Warp & Weft, Publicity And our February meeting was very of the Ice-age conditions we have all Sharen McGrail - [email protected] 020 8446 3418 well attended. If you missed Lucy had to endure. We freely admit that Theresa Munford - [email protected] 020 8748 3737 - Norris’ fascinating talk, you can read we take an even more jaundiced view Editor of Warp & Weft all about it in this issue and learn of owing to our car having had a slight Jan Slater - [email protected] 020 8870 3854 - the long and convoluted journey we brush with an ice-berg deposited on Librarian launch our old clothes on when we our doorstep by the snow-plough Sonia Tindale - [email protected] 020 7722 9343 - toss them into a recycling bin. which our local Council, thoughtfully Programme Secretary The profligacy of our attitude making amends after piously awaiting to clothing in the West is one of a thaw for a couple of weeks, sent the motivations behind Rachael around to clear a way to civilisation.” Matthew’s yarn adventures based in Plus ca change? her shop ‘Prick Your Finger’. W&W Front cover: The Wetlands wallhanging in development - see article pae 15 brings you the first of a two-part Theresa Munford Page 2 Page 3 March 2010 February 2010: at a special port in India without any tariffs. It then heads up the Mutilated hosiery and romantic-sounding Grand Trunk the Indian shoddy Road (romantic to those of us brought up on Kipling) to the unromantic 350 industry – Lucy Norris shoddy mills in Panipat, about 80 The February lecture came at us from kilometres north of Delhi. all directions - textiles, recycling, First, a myriad of Indian men and anthropology and a bit of philosophy, women do the hard, fiddly work by and gave us a lot to think about. hand before it gets to the machinery Dr Lucy Norris is an anthropologist stage. Taking everything out of at University College London, pockets - coins, badges, business currently working on the textile cards; cutting out zips and metal recycling industry in India - the buttons which can be resold. As Dr aptly named ’shoddy industry’. She Norris said, it is fascinating to see has spent a lot of time in India and all the business cards and shop labels it was whilst living in Delhi that she from Essex to Texas all intermingling came across this subject and started on the floor. As, of course, it is not researching it. In 2005, she returned just British unwanted textiles they are to India with a photographer and dealing with, but goods from all over subsequently they had an exhibition at the world. the Horniman Museum. Many of the The old jackets, trousers etc are slides in the lecture came from this then sliced up, with lethal-looking time. vegetable cutters, removing cuffs, We all know of the over- interlining - anything that will not go consumption of clothes in the West through the shredder. Colours are and how we blithely chuck them out, sorted into colour families with over usually to a charity shop. We are also 80 names, but grey, black and sludgy aware that a great deal of what we brown predominate. chuck out is not worth re-selling, but what happens after that, I for one had Photo: Tim Mitchell only a vague idea. The piles of old textiles collected by the large rag companies are sorted, in the north of England, into re-sellable stuff going to, say, Africa, and the rest is mutilated in huge machines before being re-baled and sailing off to north India, the biggest textile recycling centre in the world. In theory the mutilated textiles cannot be resold as garments and can therefore arrive Page 5 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010 Whole families are involved, with conditions and the pollution. young children playing around the This recycling industry first began Introducing: Prick piles of old clothes. Dr Norris asked in Yorkshire in the early 19th century Your Finger the women why they thought all these and gave us the term ‘shoddy’. As clothes had arrived in India and got a the industry declined in Yorkshire it Welcome to the first most surprising answer. “In the West resurfaced in India and now there is in the new W&W series, there is a water shortage, and they the likelihood that it might shift to ‘Introducing’, and what can’t afford to wash the clothes and Africa. But meanwhile there is much a smashing two- part have to throw them away.” that Dr Norris wants to research in interview we have for The piles of shredded, colour- India with the effects of our profligacy you to kick off this new coded cloth are then put through on the economy, health and way of feature! I have been teasing machines, carding machines life of all the people involved. chatting to Rachael and eventually spinning machines Altogether an extremely, interesting, Matthews, co-founder and then onto bobbins made out and thought-provoking lecture on a of the Prick Your Finger of recycled paper. No re-dyeing is little-known subject. haberdashery in East involved. The yarn is then spun into London about their hand blankets selling for a £1 or less and, Jan Slater spinning activities. with a neat twist, some are bought by First of all Rachael told Western charities (who would have The cut-up clothing is fed through a me a little bit about the sold the unwanted textiles originally) ‘teaser’ to shred it, and then carded Prick Your Finger manifesto, and the the sheep and this is where it lives, to be used as ‘aid blankets’. and spun to make recycled shoddy experiences that had inspired it. this is who farms it and so on.” We then veered off to learn about yarn. Photos: Tim Mitchell “Before we established Prick Your As well as stocking hand and mill the acrylic side of the recycling, with www.timmitchellphotography.co.uk Finger, Louise worked a lot in fashion spun yarns by textile artists and yarn the usual cutting up and shredding and she knew a lot about knitwear producers from around the British etc but this time the yarn was over- manufacture in this country and how Isles, Rachael and Louise stock their dyed.
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