Warp&Weft

Contents Contact details 2 Editorial 3 Meetings: December - Competitions 18 February - Lucy Norris 5 Future Meetings 24 Features: Introducing: Prick Your Finger 7 Postcard from Downunder 13 Wetlands Wallhanging 15 Snow and Tell 16 Guild Summer Holiday 23 Regulars: Weave Study Group 10 Spinning Skills-sharing 11 Library News 20 Membership News 21 Guild News 25 AGM 2010 Agenda 28 What's On in Textiles 29

The Newsletter of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Issue 237 March 2010 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers Editorial feature on this London textile artist. And our ‘postcard’ this time comes www.londonguildofweavers.org.uk Today I pulled out the boxes of old from the antipodes, from a recent trip W&Ws that lie stashed in the depths Sonia Tindale made to Australia and President of my cupboard and searched through New Zealand. their yellowing pages for the March Now that winter might finally be Daphne Ratcliffe - [email protected] 020 8997 0291 1963 edition. I was curious about nearly over, there are exhibitions how the Guild coped with that other to entice us on the road again, for Vice Presidents memorable winter. I must confess I example ‘Kaleidoscope’ opening in was also hoping to find that they’d Mansfield on 17 April (details p. 30) Aileen Kennedy had to cancel a meeting too, that and the exciting prospect of a Guild Nancy Lee Child we weren’t just 21st century softies. Summer School in Norfolk (p. 23). Mary Smith Sorry folks, we are! And should we get a freak snowstorm Melanie Venes I quote: 12 January 1963 or two in the coming months, then “In spite of the Siberian weather, a there’s always our exhibition in October Executive Committee: Officers large number packed themselves into and the December competitions (p.26) Room 4 in Church House…” to start working on. Chair - Jenifer Midgley - [email protected] 020 8892 4708 Of course, another explanation may But let’s finish this editorial with the Treasurer - Lola McDowell - [email protected] 020 8749 0923 be that in those days it was just too opening paragraph of the editorial of Secretary - Jane Rutt - [email protected] 0207 580 8583 boring to stay in….no internet, no box W&W March 1963: sets of DVDs and no central heating. “Last quarter, doubtless under the Committee members Trudging through snow was probably benign influence of pre-Christmas preferable to huddling in front of a gas festivities, we tended to wax slightly David Armstrong - [email protected] 020 8399 4832 fire listening to the light programme. lyrical over the signs and portents of Penny Brazier - [email protected] 020 7630 9093 - Fortunately, we will still be able to approaching winter. Alas, the ‘eager Membership Secretary hear the speaker booked for January, nip’ we regarded with such benevolent Roberto Campana - [email protected] 07730 284 258 - as Helga Matos is able to speak at expectancy proved to be a gargantuan Exhibitions Officer our March meeting instead (see p. 24 bite and as we write we are still Brenda Gibson - [email protected] 020 8673 4914 - for details of her forthcoming talk). surrounded by piled –up evidence Webmaster, Design & Layout of Warp & Weft, Publicity And our February meeting was very of the Ice-age conditions we have all Sharen McGrail - [email protected] 020 8446 3418 well attended. If you missed Lucy had to endure. We freely admit that Theresa Munford - [email protected] 020 8748 3737 - Norris’ fascinating talk, you can read we take an even more jaundiced view Editor of Warp & Weft all about it in this issue and learn of owing to our car having had a slight Jan Slater - [email protected] 020 8870 3854 - the long and convoluted journey we brush with an ice-berg deposited on Librarian launch our old clothes on when we our doorstep by the snow-plough Sonia Tindale - [email protected] 020 7722 9343 - toss them into a recycling bin. which our local Council, thoughtfully Programme Secretary The profligacy of our attitude making amends after piously awaiting to clothing in the West is one of a thaw for a couple of weeks, sent the motivations behind Rachael around to clear a way to civilisation.” Matthew’s yarn adventures based in Plus ca change? her shop ‘Prick Your Finger’. W&W Front cover: The Wetlands wallhanging in development - see article pae 15 brings you the first of a two-part Theresa Munford Page 2 Page 3 March 2010

February 2010: at a special port in India without any tariffs. It then heads up the Mutilated hosiery and romantic-sounding Grand Trunk the Indian shoddy Road (romantic to those of us brought up on Kipling) to the unromantic 350 industry – Lucy Norris shoddy mills in Panipat, about 80 The February lecture came at us from kilometres north of Delhi. all directions - textiles, recycling, First, a myriad of Indian men and anthropology and a bit of philosophy, women do the hard, fiddly work by and gave us a lot to think about. hand before it gets to the machinery Dr Lucy Norris is an anthropologist stage. Taking everything out of at University College London, pockets - coins, badges, business currently working on the textile cards; cutting out zips and metal recycling industry in India - the buttons which can be resold. As Dr aptly named ’shoddy industry’. She Norris said, it is fascinating to see has spent a lot of time in India and all the business cards and shop labels it was whilst living in Delhi that she from Essex to Texas all intermingling came across this subject and started on the floor. As, of course, it is not researching it. In 2005, she returned just British unwanted textiles they are to India with a photographer and dealing with, but goods from all over subsequently they had an exhibition at the world. the Horniman Museum. Many of the The old jackets, trousers etc are slides in the lecture came from this then sliced up, with lethal-looking time. vegetable cutters, removing cuffs, We all know of the over- interlining - anything that will not go consumption of clothes in the West through the shredder. Colours are and how we blithely chuck them out, sorted into colour families with over usually to a charity shop. We are also 80 names, but grey, black and sludgy aware that a great deal of what we brown predominate. chuck out is not worth re-selling, but what happens after that, I for one had Photo: Tim Mitchell only a vague idea. The piles of old textiles collected by the large rag companies are sorted, in the north of England, into re-sellable stuff going to, say, Africa, and the rest is mutilated in huge machines before being re-baled and sailing off to north India, the biggest textile recycling centre in the world. In theory the mutilated textiles cannot be resold as garments and can therefore arrive Page 5 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

Whole families are involved, with conditions and the pollution. young children playing around the This recycling industry first began Introducing: Prick piles of old clothes. Dr Norris asked in Yorkshire in the early 19th century Your Finger the women why they thought all these and gave us the term ‘shoddy’. As clothes had arrived in India and got a the industry declined in Yorkshire it Welcome to the first most surprising answer. “In the West resurfaced in India and now there is in the new W&W series, there is a water shortage, and they the likelihood that it might shift to ‘Introducing’, and what can’t afford to wash the clothes and Africa. But meanwhile there is much a smashing two- part have to throw them away.” that Dr Norris wants to research in interview we have for The piles of shredded, colour- India with the effects of our profligacy you to kick off this new coded cloth are then put through on the economy, health and way of feature! I have been teasing machines, carding machines life of all the people involved. chatting to Rachael and eventually spinning machines Altogether an extremely, interesting, Matthews, co-founder and then onto bobbins made out and thought-provoking lecture on a of the Prick Your Finger of recycled paper. No re-dyeing is little-known subject. haberdashery in East involved. The yarn is then spun into London about their hand blankets selling for a £1 or less and, Jan Slater spinning activities. with a neat twist, some are bought by First of all Rachael told Western charities (who would have The cut-up clothing is fed through a me a little bit about the sold the unwanted textiles originally) ‘teaser’ to shred it, and then carded Prick Your Finger manifesto, and the the sheep and this is where it lives, to be used as ‘aid blankets’. and spun to make recycled shoddy experiences that had inspired it. this is who farms it and so on.” We then veered off to learn about yarn. Photos: Tim Mitchell “Before we established Prick Your As well as stocking hand and mill the acrylic side of the recycling, with www.timmitchellphotography.co.uk Finger, Louise worked a lot in fashion spun yarns by textile artists and yarn the usual cutting up and shredding and she knew a lot about knitwear producers from around the British etc but this time the yarn was over- manufacture in this country and how Isles, Rachael and Louise stock their dyed. There seems to be very little difficult it is. Concurrently, I was an own yarn too; dyeing knowledge, with people using artist and author, and as an artist “Anyone who knows anything about the cheapest dyes on the market - and I’m very interested in what the yarn sheep and farming knows that lots of goodness knows what pollution goes is telling me because that’s my paint, fleeces go to waste, and we have our on. This dyed yarn is woven up on old my ‘tool’ for creating if you like. So I roots in the country so we’ve always Jacquard and Dobby looms producing need to understand the character of had friends who were just giving us brightly-coloured blankets with old the yarn and I just found more and fleeces. We started having them mill designs and names such as ‘Maharaja’. more that when I was talking to the spun to sell in the shop - some DK, Some of the recycled stuff is remade yarn it had always come from another 4ply and chunky yarns, which we into garments in India and comes back country and it was always spun hand dyed. Our range of hand spun to the West as new jumpers. somewhere else. In the first instance is a whole different thing though – So, we in the West buy too much we wanted Prick Your Finger to be a hand spinning allows us to be artists, and chuck out far too much. But it shop where all the yarn came from business women and activists all at does seem to not only end up as re- the UK. So when we’re talking to a once.” useable and useful textiles, but also customer we can say this is the type of First of all, Rachael tells me a gives employment to very poor women sheep this yarn has come from, these bit more about the viability of the on the way. As always, though, there are its qualities, and it’s good for this, spinning wheel in the economic is a big question mark over their work it washes like this, this is a picture of considerations of running a shop, Page 6 Page 7 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

“I went to Iceland this year and alternatively, if you need to have a knitwear – and that you can’t simply want to find out more refer to W&W learned that when the Vikings first really in-depth conversation with your knit up a cardigan for a tenner! This issue 228 (December 2007) p30 for arrived in Iceland hand spun was their business partner, doing that whilst misunderstanding of what goes into a small piece on their store and their currency because they couldn’t ship spinning is entirely possible. The making a garment - the skill, the time, background as artists, or see their any of the silver over, it was too risky, spinning wheel is a really brilliant the materials – and the cost of these website at www.prickyourfinger.com so sheep and hand-spun yarns were meeting place for all of these things things, is very deep rooted. People the best ways for them to trade with to happen and it still churns out the seem to have forgotten what craft is Lisa Busby other countries. I love this idea and yarn and the money as it goes. People all about. So I feel that our hand spun it really relates to what we do here at think this cottage industry approach gives us a real power, a big political Prick Your Finger, we have made a is defunct but it’s not, it is achievable edge. We stock as much hand spun as space for us to be able to make things and for the consumer it’s not that we do mill spun, and that’s a big tool and be artists but the hand spun is much more expensive that buying an in raising the awareness in consumers expensive yarn from a high-end store, of ‘cost per wear’.” machine-made. We see on a day-to- Find out next issue about the sorts day basis - when you sell a yarn to a of yarns Rachael and Louise spin, and customer they feel a lot more love out their spinning adventures in the music of that yarn because it has been spun and art worlds. In the meantime if you for them.” More than simply an economic tool though, Rachael and Louise believe in the power of the spinning wheel as a political tool, “We are really inspired by Gandhi and his text ‘The Philosophy of the Spinning Wheel’. Gandhi believed that spinning as an activity enriched We textile fans have always known Hitler as a ‘Jewish Conspiracy’. The our emotional wellbeing as well as our what makes the universe tick… theory was revived in the 1980s by a aesthetic, moral, social, intellectual team of mathematicians at Berkeley, and spiritual development. The What is ‘string theory’? California, led by Professor Melvin spinning wheel was the means by R. Ropey. It was briefly known as really important in funding what we which India gained independence (Mrs Stephanie Hawking, Cambridge) ‘Ropey Theory’ before reverting to its do. It’s like a really simple economy from Britain who had taken over original title as ‘String Theory’ and where you can just say ‘OK if I spin a the cotton industry. Gandhi urged “String Theory” was first discovered is now generally accepted as the most kilo of this fibre this week and we sell the Indian people to grow their own in the 1930s at Battenburg University plausible explanation for the structure it, that would be X amount of money’. cotton and spin their own yarn to gain by Professor Hans Twining, who and nature of the universe. “ What I really like about that as economic independence. argued that the entire universe an economy is that spinning is such The political aspects of spinning was made, not from atoms as had Rev. A K H Reef-Knot a good tool to fit into a business. If are very important to us because previously been thought, but from Reprinted with kind permission from there is a day when you’re not feeling we are really anti-sweatshop and particles of string. His famous ‘Private Eye’ too clever you can sit at the wheel anti-disposable fashion. We want paper Das Univers von Stringpartikel and still bang out a lot of work. Or to teach people about good quality Gemacht (1933) was suppressed by Page 8 Page 9 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

Weave Study Group finishing her samples in the tumble Spinning Skills-sharing made up from triangles or zigzags, dryer. and then the wide range of ideas that After a not very positive response to Eve brought the fabric that she Group might be produced considering the its first experiments with Tencel (see had used for her entry to the Xmas Eight spinners met on Saturday 13 diamond as a gem with sparkling W&W March 2009) the Weave Study competition and explained some of February for the quarterly spinners’ facets. Exhibition entries will need to Group decided to take another look at the effects she had achieved with her forum. In preparation for the Guild’s be colourful to show up against white this relatively new yarn and came up stitched double cloth, including some Autumn exhibition in our Diamond walls. with some interesting results. double cloth pleated on both sides. Jubilee year, Daphne introduced Helpful hints during the session: Jenifer had woven a shadow weave Olga had experimented with her the discussion on patterns including Knitting with a dominant purl stitch throw with a tencel warp and merino scarf, setting the tencel at differing diamonds and showed us samples. as part of the diamond pattern lost its weft and the group agreed it had a epis at each side and then weaving it Diamond pattern designs are most definition when the item was pressed. good handle and drape. We spent with a fine woollen weft which she readily found in traditional patterns Fair Isle patterns on hats get tighter some time discussing the best way to had dyed using buddleia and then in the popular media of knitting and as worked, affecting the finished size. finish the ends, and it was suggested overspun. Although she felt one side crochet. Books on Shetland, Fair This may be remedied by having the that lightly felting the ends might be was more effective than the other, it Isle, Aran, Guernsey or Ganseys, and right side facing into the circular effective. worked very successfully as a piece. Canal Barge decorations will provide needles when knitting in the round, Brenda had woven three samples The general consensus appeared to inspiration for a variety of diamonds. with the floats being carried on the using a wool/tencel mix warp sett at be that given the right project tencel Everyone had brought some ‘diamond’ outside. 30epi and using silk, wool and wool/ could be an ideal yarn. It is easy samples which were admired and For the next meeting, 8 May, try tencel for each of the wefts. Washing to work with and can have a good discussed, including some non- and produce a diamond hat. the samples had not affected the finish handle and drape. However, while it diamond items, namely Theresa’s very much and gave a light fabric that still remains a yarn that is not readily lovely glove puppet sheep. Val Palmer would work well for a top. available in the UK and therefore The discussion continued to Anne had produced two throws, relatively expensive, it would be develop, thinking about diamonds using a 2/30s tencel for the warp, one necessary to weigh up the pros and firstly as geometrical shapes, possibly having the same weft and the other cons of substituting it with another using 2/60s silk. Though both had yarn, with similar properties, such as a lovely handle and drape, the all silk. tencel piece was felt to be particularly The group agreed to look at the successful. Anne now wishes to dye topic of diamonds for the next the throws and is hoping that a reader meeting and would welcome any new of W&W might be able to help her in members who might be interested in choosing a dye method that will bring joining them. out the differences in the silk and tencel. David Armstrong Joey and David had both produced samples of collapse weave, combining tencel with various wools that shrank to varying degrees. David had Opposite left: a selction of tencel entrusted his samples to the washing projects and samples machine while Joey felt that she had Opposite right: spinners in earnest more control over the end product by discussions Page 10 Page 11 March 2010 the handweavers Postcard from studio Downunder & gallery

A treasure trove for weavers, spinners, felters, braiders, dyers, threadheads and fibre fiends - and the place to come for classes and workshops. We flew to Melbourne via San I resist temptation? I’ll give you one Francisco and a visit to an old school guess! friend of mine. We were going New Zealand is near enough to Oz summer term workshops to drive along the Great Ocean that we couldn’t resist a visit to what We’re just working out our summer workshop programme as Warp & Weft Road to Adelaide; this was built must be one of the most beautiful goes to press, so watch our website for details. after WWI to provide work for the countries in the world. We had One date is already fixed and booking up fast: homecoming soldiers; it has become previously visited the South Island so a wonderful memorial to those who this time we explored the North. 3 - 6 June Ann Richards “Just add water” died, so beautiful with spectacular Heading towards the Bay of Islands And some advance warning, Jason Collingwood will be teaching again for views across the rolling waves of the in the far north we see a large sign us in October, this time on block weaves. southern ocean. announcing ‘Sheep World’. Luckily The first place we stopped was a we have time to stop and visit the small town called Lorne and the first farm. There are various other animals There’s always something new here - yarns, books, equipment - so come place we headed for was the Visitors on view mainly for the benefit of the and visit us, register for a class or workshop, or simply browse our website. Centre. As we walked in, I was met by many children who visit – miniature a display of large hanks of space-dyed horses, alpacas, pigs and goats. Open Monday - Saturday, 10:00 - 6:00 wool, blues, purples, lavenders, soft Then we meet the shepherd and his greens, bright greens, sunrise yellow, three dogs which enable him to herd 140 Seven Sisters Road autumn brown and pink. Enquiring 6-7,000 sheep from high pastures London N7 7NS about a B&B in town suddenly didn’t down to the farm. It was a treat to Tel: 020 7272 1891 seem very important – I had to go and watch the dogs demonstrating with look at these lovely rainbows! The feel a small flock of about 20 sheep. The [email protected] www.handweavers.co.uk was gorgeous, soft, soft. It was five- Huntaway dog pushes from behind ply knitting wool spun from Polwarth trying to make sure that no sheep sheep which are Australia’s first breed breaks out of the flock; the two of sheep. I was told that some of the ‘eye’ dogs run each side of the flock, young sheep wear little coats in the keeping it compact. Their responses cold weather to keep the wool fine to the shepherd’s commands are and soft! Do I need more yarn? Did incredible; he uses voice commands Page 13 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

and whistles (plastic reeds). It is not they also have Merino sheep for top the words that the dogs understand quality clothing yarns – in the South but the tone of voice and pitch of the Island the sheep have to grow thick whistle that they obey. Each dog has warm coats for protection against the its own orders, the shepherd has to cold on the mountain slopes. know all the commands for all his The children in the audience were dogs. asked to give the lambs milk from Having brought all the sheep safely baby feeding bottles, which led into the enclosure the shepherd now to great excitement. I had to give shows us how he shears them. There Valentine (born on Valentine’s day) are four or five positions in which the her milk from a much bigger bottle – a sheep is comfortable and relaxed so three-month-old calf is quite big and that the shepherd can cut the wool sucks with great gusto! rapidly from the skin with his very This time I resisted temptation and sharp shearing clippers. He wears did not buy one of the gorgeous white felt moccasins to protect his feet soft as soft sheepskins – the main in case the clippers slip. The poor reason being I did not have room in Wetlands Wallhanging and logwood natural dye extracts, quality fleece is exported to Australia my suitcase! As you probably know, a group of we achieved a varied palette of and made into industrial felt and It would be fun to go back -- there London Guild spinners meets twice a yellows and purples through various insulation – it is fire retardant as well is so much to see, but it is a very long month at the London Wetland Centre, combinations of modifiers and using as warm. The high quality fleece is way away. Perhaps someone else can Barnes, and has done almost since its exhaust baths. The finished project used for carpet making, knitting and send us the next postcard from down opening 10 years ago. What you may was a rug (designed to be used as a weaving. Most of the sheep in New under – Tasmania maybe? not know is that their wildlife extends wall hanging) that I wove on four Zealand are Romney because they beyond birds to sheep! For the last shafts using a four block design from are not so susceptible to foot rot; Sonia Tindale few years the WWT has collaborated Peter Collingwood’s The Techniques they also have Suffolk for meat and with the Natural History Museum of Rugweaving – where else? We East Fresian from Holland for milk. and acquired a small flock of very were able to present the finished rug Sheep milk has twice as much protein hardy Dartmoor sheep, and now they just before Christmas (and afterwards and fat as cows milk. Further south have a few Hebrideans. rewarded ourselves with a lovely pub Following the clip in 2008, the lunch) and the Wetlands staff and centre gave one of the Dartmoor management were quite delighted fleece to the spinners and we wanted at the finished result. It is destined to find a way of saying thank you to to be hung in the Wetland Living the Wetland Centre, so we decided area of the site, which is now an on a collaborative project to produce approved venue for marriage and civil something suitable to present to them. partnerships ceremonies. We divided the fleece between us and spun into rug weight yarn, trying to Brenda Gibson be as consistent as possible, and then had two natural dyeing days hosted by Daphne Ratcliffe. Using fustic

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Snow and tell... I managed to finish the project. 4. Brenda Gibson: “I thought a With force it will go on my head. suitable cold weather project was a hot Most of us probably found ourselves But now the snow has all gone, water bottle cover. A friend recently stuck inside by the snow and freezing And the weather is perfect instead. asked me if I knew of a knitting weather this winter. We even had to pattern for a hot water bottle cover cancel the January meeting. A request – I recommended a tape measure for members to let W&W know what instead! (This was unwelcome news creative things they got up to while to my friend.) Here’s the proof of the huddled up by radiators produced the pudding. Note the double cuff on the following responses. spout – this avoids the need for any other fastening.”

3. Theresa Munford: “I couldn’t resist buying a 100g braid of merino/ cashmere/silk from the ‘limegreenjelly’ stand at the East Sussex Guild show in Lewes last October. Space-dyed, the colour was called ‘Disco 2000’ and it felt gorgeous! I fully expected to let it lie in my stash for months if not years, just giving it the occasional squeeze to remind myself how soft and luscious it felt. But with my school snowed in and an unexpected extra week of 1. Jan Slater not only produced a hat, holiday, I spun it up on my Ashford. from alpaca and Wensleydale in a Fair 2. Ruth Moulton said that, apart I teased out half the top into long Isle design, but she also produced a from some d.i.y. to make her house colour blocks and then navajo-plied poem…. less draughty, she spun up merino it; for the other half I split the roving tops to make a shawl for her sister’s into four and then teased it out to I saw the snow and thought of the baby, expected in May. She has make shorter colour blocks which cold. designed a swirly pattern of colour I also navajo-plied. The plan is to The alpaca I decided to spin. on a traditional lace structure. The knit a shawl top-down so the shorter A hat with a pattern. glorious swatch of colours hanging colour blocks are at the top and the What a disaster, I’m eyeing the bin. from the wheel in the photo look like longer ones are at the bottom where just the thing to chase away winter the knitting rows are longer. Now all The alpaca was lumpy and bumpy, blues! I need is another week of hibernation The white was all stringy and thin. to get around to that!” I became distinctly grumpy. Again I am eyeing the bin. Page 16 Page 17 Warp and Weft Issue 237

The range of methods was impressive, Gwen Shaw Competition: Val Palmer as were the additional skills involved “I wanted my second skill to be in completion of the items. Most woodwork as that’s one of the crafts I used additional textile based skills to enjoy and at first planned just to do a enhance their work and again, more fretwork zip pull for the pocket on a than met the set parameters. bag. But then I decided to make the All in all, it was a pleasure to have handle and toggle from wood as well. the great responsibility of discussing The inspiration for the zip pull was a each piece. I thank everyone who photo of the shadow of leaves on the participated and all those who helped trunk of a tree. I developed the weave to organise the day. pattern after attending one of Melanie And the winners were…. Venes’ workshops at Handweavers. I tried to get the background colour to The Kennedy Cup for Spinning: Jan be like leaves on the ground but I’m Competition Review - Entrants seemed to use the Slater not sure I succeeded as well as I’d have competition parameters as a jumping- ‘The inspiration for the uneven liked. The yarns are ones I already December 2009 One plus off point for creative and imaginative square-like design I used for my had rather than bought specially for One or More Than One leaps. They produced an amazing cushion came from Eastern Turkey the project.” group of fabrics, all of which complied Black Sea architecture. Some of Eve Alexander writes: with the cloth guidelines and many the old grand houses are built with Beginners Prize: Val Palmer of which dramatically exceeded the wooden frames infilled with stones. “I had fun creating the underwater I was absolutely delighted with the requirements to great effect. I used alpaca, Blue-faced Leicester ‘fish’ scene for the Christmas responses to the competitions set in Gwen Shaw Competition - a finished and Romney for the ‘stones’ in 2-ply. competition. Following this year’s the spring of 2009. Great efforts were item using more than one skill. As the competition called for two theme of adding one or more yarns, made to comply with the guidelines, Competitors chose many different differently spun yarns I used a 4-ply the scene was made up of different to produce lovely things to use or ways to show their design processes. crepe, again in Romney, to add blends of plying, producing fancy wear and some were great fun as well. texture for the ‘wooden frame’. For yarns to look like various types of Kennedy Cup for Spinning - a finished the verso of the cushion I just used all seaweed and coral. I was thrilled to item using two or more types of the yarns, spun 2 ply, in stripes.’ win the prize as a beginner spinner.” handspun yarn. Members positively excelled with Lore Youngmark Prize: Shahnaz Nasr the yarn types, some using far more “I wove a satin and sateen using four than the minimum two required. different yarns. The warp yarns were They made a lovely range of things a purple cotton and a thicker white from the whimsical and fun to the silk, the weft yarns were a fine cotton practical, all beautifully thought out and a man-made metallic and colour and most with good guides as to why boucle. I wove some twill samples they had used different fibres and but found the satin and sateen was techniques. much more satisfactory. The fabric Lore Youngmark Prize - a finished would not have been suitable for a item showing two faces of the same scarf, it was much too heavy, but it woven fabric was perfect for a cushion.” Page 18 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

Library News might like to look at it when you Membership News are next in a bookshop. Christopher In January, as you know, we had There are no new books in the library Alexander: A Carpet Ride to Khiva. We are pleased to welcome four new to cancel the meeting because of the this time. I thought, instead, I would His account of setting up a carpet- members to the Guild since the last weather conditions. We were able to mention some of the books we already weaving cooperative in Khiva with W&W. Their names are printed below email all of our members who had have. I consulted some weavers and UNESCO backing, employing local and their full contact details can be supplied us with email addresses, spinners at the Guild’s skill-sharing weavers and dyers, training up found on the members’ website. but had to spend considerable time session to see what author/book young disadvantaged women, and It’s worth mentioning I think, that phoning round everybody else. I they have found useful. This is the discovering carpet designs. But the one of our new members, Sarah, is wondered if any members who do not outcome: part I found fascinating is his hunt a textile student at Leeds University have access to the internet themselves, WEAVING: Mary Atwater: The for natural dyes - dried pomegranate and that one of her lecturers could give me an ‘emergency’ email Shuttle-Craft Book of American skins, madder, indigo, zok, oak galls recommended that she join the Guild address, perhaps that of a friend or Hand-Weaving. (recommended etc, a hunt that takes him from exotic to receive our excellent W&W! Let’s relative that we could use for just such as being a good read). Peter Khiva to dangerous Afghanistan. hope she makes it to a meeting one of an occasion. It won’t go on the general Collingwood: The Techniques of Rug Written with humour. these days. address list, but be kept separately. Weaving (the bible for rug weavers). We have one returnee to the Guild, If you think that it’s possible to do, G.H. Oelsner: A Handbook of Jan Slater Susan. It’s always nice to have people please ask your nominated friend to Weavers. (another bible). And Ann back. email me. The cancellation of our Sutton, Peter Collingwood, Geraldine Renewals for this year are still January meeting is a classic reason to St Aubyn Hubbard: The Craft of the For Sale in Reigate, Surrey trickling in but there are about 25 keep all addresses and phone numbers Weaver. At this point I had to stop members who still have to renew. This up to date. the weavers who were hauling book FINNISH COUNTERMARCH needs to be done quickly and if you after book out of the boxes and I was LOOM. are one of the ‘25’, you will find a New members: swamped. Width overall : 59” / 150cm final reminder in this copy of W&W. Lyn Duffus, Northolt, Middx TAPESTRY WEAVING: Tadek Depth 54”/137cm Height This will be your last copy if you do Susan Poston, London SW4 Beutlich: The Technique of Woven 61”/154cm not renew: you have until 1 April. Sarah Hunsperger, Clayton-Le-Woods Tapestry (very clear diagrams). Weaving width 48”/122cm If you have renewed, but did Marie McAdam, London W6 SPINNING: Mabel Ross: 8 shafts with underslung beater. not send a SAE or collected your Frances Johnson, London N4 Encyclopedia of Handspinning. Bench included - all birch wood . membership card at a meeting, you PLYING: Diane Varney: Spinning Reed - Raddle - 20 sticks should now find it enclosed. Penny Brazier Designer Yarns. Shuttles - 4 sledge - 2 boat. I have had two members let me Membership Secretary DYEING: Jenny Dean: The Craft of Quiet in operation ; excellent know that they are not renewing Apartment 21 Natural Dyeing. condition. this year. Jocelyne Fortin has moved 66 Rochester Row KNITTING (diamond ideas): Inclusive price £750 ono. Can be to France and Stella Masters has London SW1P 1JU Sheila McGregor: Traditional transported in an estate car with resigned after 30 years as a member. [email protected] Knitting. roof rack. She has said that she finds it difficult And one to cover all: Rachel Brown: Sheila Forbes to get out and about and doesn’t do The Weaving, Spinning and Dyeing Peatswood , 2 Blanford Road, much weaving now. It’s very nice to Book. Reigate, Surrey, RH2 7DR. hear from members – even if they are And lastly, I thought I would give Tel. 01737 248031 leaving, as it ‘draws a line’ under their a brief mention of a book recently E-mail: [email protected] membership – and helps me with the out that I am enjoying reading. You paperwork! Page 20 Page 21 March 2010 www.fibrecrafts.com the Art of textiles & colour, through mail order... London Guild Weaving & Spinning Summer Holiday in Norfolk 19 to 26 June 2010 If textile tours to South America or Eastern Europe are beyond your projects could be organised if they are budget, follow the example set by interested. Most spinners like to use Roberto and Elizabeth last year and their own wheels, but Melanie does

Schacht Baby Wolf Loom Wolf Baby Schacht take a weaving holiday in Norfolk. have some Ashford spinning wheels, Sandy beaches, big skies, birding, and there is a Guild wheel available walking, good food, what more can that can be borrowed. you ask for? Well, how about the There will be at least one luxury of having time to sit and spin excursion, probably to an alpaca or weave with friends? farm and then on to Woad Inc, to Thornham is a very pretty village see a demonstration of dyeing. Other with 3 pubs, a shop and a weaving visits could be to historic houses, studio. There are some lovely Sandringham, Holkham, Houghton, holiday cottages as well as B&B Blickling and Fellbrigg are all within accommodation. Melanie Venes easy distance. is offering a mini summer school: We will need to reserve a five day weaving course with accommodation soon. Depending on lots of socialising. The studio can the number of people who would like accommodate up to six weavers, to attend we may offer this idea to and the local hall is reserved in other guilds. case we need more space. Spinners For further information contact Please visit our web site at: www.fibrecrafts.com, are welcome too. There are several Roberto on 07730284258 or e-mail outdoor locations available if the [email protected] ring for a catalogue, or pop in to our showroom weather is kind, otherwise we’ll make weekdays between 10am and 4pm use of holiday cottages or the hall. The fee for the weaving course will FIBRECRAFTS · Old Portsmouth Road · Peasmarsh be £150 which includes materials and lunch. Melanie is flexible and GUILDFORD · Surrey · GU3 1LZ happy to tailor the course around the participants. There are six 4-shaft and Tel: 01483 565800 · Fax: 01483 565807 four 8-shaft looms available, or you Email: [email protected] can bring your own. Spinners will be charged £25, to cover hire of the hall and refreshments. There will be no The GeorGe Weil Group of Companies formal tuition for the spinners but www.fibrecrafts.com · www.papershed.com · www.polymerclaypit.co.uk Page 23 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

Future Meetings the sources of Eliza’s designs from Guild News labelling and posting two heavy boxes historic houses round the country and of Journals four times a year was an 13 March theatrical anecdotes about how she Guild Diamond Anniversary and onerous task. So from this year on, Annual General Meeting (for Agenda came to visit them. Exhibition the Guild has switched to individual see page 28) Eliza will bring many projects to subscriptions. Your Journal will be Helga Matos: Creative Weaving pass round: cushions, a child’s collar, The events sub-committee is posted out from the publishers as for (Helga was to be our speaker at the a toybag, a make-up box, a jewellery pressing ahead with organizing the other individual subscriptions. This January meeting that was snowed roll – and a huge patchwork quilt celebration of the London Guild’s makes no difference to how you set off. Fortunately, she is able to speak made from snippets of millions of 60th anniversary. As detailed in the up your subscription when you renew after the AGM, replacing the ‘show theatre costumes! last edition of W&W the exhibition your membership. The only slight and tell’ of Guild members’ textile There will also be lots about beads: will be set up on 3 October and be change is that we can no longer offer artefacts.) where to find them, how to shade with open from 4 - 9 October. The title the 50p early bird discount, so all Helga Matos is a recent graduate them, how to break them down, and is simply ‘Diamond’ so that should subscribers pay £15 per annum. A from the Royal College of Art. how they can enhance your work to give plenty of scope for creative new subscriber part way through During her Masters degree she create things that will last forever. interpretations. Submission fees will the calendar year pays a pro-rata became interested in how we are be £5 per piece with a limit of three subscription for the balance of the influenced by our surroundings and 12 June items per member; if items are for year. how we interact with surfaces. Helga Pat Foster: Silk sale, the Guild will take commission developed a 3D technique using the Pat will discuss the processing of of 10%. The address of the venue Guild trips jacquard and experimented with silk yarn and fabric, looking at how is 14 Baylis Road, London SE1 7AA, unconventional materials creating silk yarn was used to create priceless website: waterlooactioncentre.co.uk Full details of the exciting London very unusual fabrics. Helga will also fabrics through the ages from Guild Summer School can be found be talking about her recent visit to early Chinese drawlooms through Guild Sales Table on page 23. There are also plans for South Korea where she was part of a Byzantine presentation cloths to 20th the following two visits: Hemp Textiles Development Project century Jacquard looms. She will talk Spring may see you clearing out your • St Paul’s Cathedral, to have a private sponsored by the Korean government. about her own weaving, which shows stash of yarns, fleece or equipment. viewing of the vestments that will a range of techniques from copies of Don’t forget that every meeting there feature in our August meeting; 10 April Okinawan and Indonesian fabrics to is a Sales Table. Bring along anything • Susan Dye’s dyers garden in Rachel Hunt: Cotehele House – Old double-stitched cloth treated with silk you want to sell, marked with a price. Hertfordshire (Susan will be our tapestries, new audiences, limited time, paint, space-dyed wefts and disperse The Guild takes just 10% commission. speaker at the July meeting). no money dyeing and used to make pictures. She And it’s a good place to buy things to We will confirm dates and times for Rachel’s talk will explore the will also talk about using a fan reed replenish those nice clear shelves after these as soon as possible but if you dilemmas, trials, tribulations with silk and the special effects that your spring clean! have any questions now please contact and triumphs of conserving and can be achieved as well as chameleon Roberto 07730284258, roberto­_ interpreting tapestries as part of a and lampas. Samples will be available Journal Distribution [email protected] country house collection. to examine. Last year the committee discussed Spitalfields City Farm 8 May ways of improving the way the Journal Eliza McClelland: To Bead or not to is distributed to Guild members. Roberto recently visited some of Bead Increased postage costs negated any London’s city farms and had a This talk is about beadwork on savings the Guild made by buying request from Spitalfields City Farm canvas. It includes information about a bulk subscription. Also, packing, for the London Guild to demonstrate Page 24 Page 25 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

okayed. This will avoid any problems perpetuate her memory. This is spinning and weaving on Sunday 23 Category Breed/s with judging the entries at the now the Gwen Shaw Cup, which is May. They are having a Woolfest with December meeting. The item should awarded to a London Guild member shearing demonstrations and such 1. Critical Boreray be accompanied by a sample skein and at the annual competition. The like. They have some rare breeds there a brief summary of why you chose emphasis is on designing and all including North Ronaldsay and Castle 2. Endangered Leicester Longwool; that yarn for the project. entries must be accompanied by Moorit as well as the native breed North Ronaldsay evidence of the design process. Southdown. Knitters are also needed The Lore Youngmark Prize The Competition: The theme is for ‘have a go’ sessions. The farm has 3. Vulnerable Castlemilk Background ‘Shadows’; you can interpret this as spinning wheels and a loom. If you Moorit; Devon This competition has been held every you wish. would like to take part please contact and Cornwall year since 1987 to honour a member Roberto (contact details above). Longwool; Hill who, amongst other achievements, Beginner’s Prize Radnor; Teeswater co-authored the book Foundations Don’t forget that if you are new to a Competitions for December 2010 of Weaving and was an inspirational craft and have put an entry into one 4. At Risk Balwen; Lincoln teacher. The competition was of the above competitions, you can be Our annual competitions are judged Longwool; Manx originally open only to weavers considered for the Beginner’s Prize, by members’ votes and each carries a Loaghtan; Norfolk weaving floor rugs but in recent inaugurated by Melanie Venes three monetary prize. To enter, there are Horn; Oxford years the competition brief has been years ago. This could be called the no formalities, just bring along your Down; Portland; broadened to include a wider range of don’t-hide-your-light-under-a-bushel entry or entries to the meeting on 11 Soay; Wensleydale; weaving techniques. prize and is intended to encourage December. Eve Alexander has kindly Whitefaced The Competition: Holier than thou: those who consider themselves novices offered to comment on entries again Dartmoor; A finished item incorporating one or in spinning, weaving or dyeing to this year. The committee decided on Whitefaced more lace weave structures. have a go. Remember, everyone was the following competitions at their Woodland a novice once and it’s by meeting meeting in February: The Gwen Shaw Competition challenges and embarking on projects 5. Minority Cotswold; Dorset Background that we refine and develop our skills. The Kennedy Cup for Spinning Down; Dorset Gwen Shaw was a founding member Background Horn; Greyface of the London Guild and a force The Kennedy Cup for Spinning was Dartmoor; behind its success. When she died in set up in 1992 to honour Aileen Shropshire 1959 a subscription list was opened Kennedy and her late husband. to purchase something that would Aileen is a current Vice-President www.rbst.org.uk/watch-list/main of the London Guild and was Guild There are some discrepancies A Chinese poem I called. She turned her head to look, Secretary for many years. between lists of what are classified as But her eyes were blank. She did not The Competition: Now you see it, ‘rare’. Two fleece that we will also Last night in a dream I returned to know me. soon you won’t: Rare breeds include are Bowmont and Hebridean my old home So many years have we been parted The brief this year is to produce a (listed as a rare breed in the Journal And saw my wife weaving at her The hair at my temples has lost its finished item from yarn spun from a in 2003). If you are planning to enter loom. old colour. rare breed sheep. As a guide to what the competition and are unsure if the She held her shuttle poised, as counts as ‘rare breed’ we reproduce fleece you choose ‘qualifies’ please let though lost in thought, Han Shan 9th century Chinese poet below the table from the website of the Guild Committee know before As though she had no strength to lift the Rare Breeds Survival Trust: http:// the November meeting so it can be it further. Page 26 Page 27 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

AGM Agenda Love from Nancy… What's On in Textiles been brought together. Admission free The 60th Annual General Meeting The London Guild was delighted V&A Courses www.soane.org of the London Guild of Weavers, to raise £500 to send to Nancy Spinners and Dyers Lee Childas a retirement gift along 6/7 May Tucked and Twisted Quilting 27 February - 13 March To be held at 2.30pm on Saturday 13 with a book of messages showing Techniques (tutor: Jennie Rayment) Hot Needles - Cool Stitches - March 2010 at St Stephen’s House, 48 how much she has meant to us over 14 May Superstitchers Machine Knitting, Felting, Stitching Emperor’s Gate, London SW7 4HJ the years. Here’s Nancy’s letter Embroidery (tutor: Louise Gardiner) back. 2/3 June Durham-style Quilting The Studios, Art Van Go, 1 Stevenage AGENDA (tutor: Jenny Barlow) Road, Knebworth, SG3 6AN 1. Apologies for absence. Haroldstone Rd, London 18/19 June Colour in Design with Tues - Fri 10.30 - 4, Sat 10 - 2. Details 2. Minutes of the 59th AGM held on 17 December 2009 Kaffe Fassett and Liza Prior Lucy from 01438 814946 14 March 2009. Dear London Guild Members, All courses take place in the Sackler 3. Matters Arising everyone who wrote in the green Centre, phone 020 7942 2211 or go to March - May 2010 Textile Exhibition 4. Reports on the activities of the spiral book, www.vam.ac.uk Guild during 2009. I am crying. You’ve come to my Arthouse Gallery, Oad Street Centre, Nr. •Chair of the Guild ‘wake’ and written welcomed, kind V&A Seminars Borden, Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8LB •Membership Secretary things in the visitors’ book. But 9.30am - 5.30pm daily. Admission •Editor of W& W it’s not a completion, we are still 13 March ‘Riche robes and Stuffes’ free. Details from 01795 842244, •Librarian walking about, I can thank you European Dress & Textiles 1300– www.arthousegallery-kent.co.uk •Exhibitions Officer with pen and paper. 1600 5. Report on the Guild accounts (Lola I am so fortunate to know you 27 March Underwear: Craving, 11 - 28 March McDowell, Guild Treasurer) all. Lucky me. Who is embarrassed Collecting & Caring Ipek – the story of silk 6. Recommendations by the with the book and cheque in For more details phone 020 7942 committee for subscriptions for my hand? First time in my life, 2211 or go to www.vam.ac.uk Handmade Interiors, 10 Cheshire membership year 2011. speechless, with tears. Street, London E2 6EH. Handmade 7. Election of members for the I came to my first London 19 February - 1 May 2010 Interiors (in Association with executive committee Guild meeting in 1969. Your Mrs Delany and Her Circle Handmade in Britain) announces Wendy Morris has been invited by thoughtfulness has given me an their second exhibition IPEK the committee to be President and is anniversary celebration. Sir John Soane’s Museum, 13 (meaning ‘silk’ in Turkish) featuring willing to take on the role. All my love to all of you, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, London WC2A contemporary British and Turkish Theresa Munford has been nominated 3BP 020 7440 4246 designer-makers. The gallery will as Chair of the executive committee Nancy The exhibition surveys the entire life also feature some antique silk textiles 8. Any Other Business of Mrs. Delany, née Mary Granville along with their permanent ranges. 9. Date of the 61st Annual General (1700-1788), and essays the full Thurs- Sunday 11am - 6pm, for details Meeting to be held on Saturday 12 range of her creative endeavours: art, phone 020 7613 5200 or go to www. March 2011. fashion, and science. The centre pieces handmade-interiors.co.uk of the show will include sections of Delany’s court dress magnificently 13 - 14 March embroidered with naturalistic flowers. Contemporary Textiles Fair This exhibition is the first time that these surviving sections of fabric have Landmark Arts Centre, Ferry Road, Page 28 Page 29 Warp and Weft Issue 237 March 2010

Teddington TW11 9NN Exhibition he curated for the Opinions is available if required, cost £20 and Showcasing more than 70 of the finest Horniman Museum, where he was £10 respectively. Small (ie classified) textile artists in the UK. Hangable Curator for Asia. 7pm The committee is not responsible for ads cost £5 (members) and £7.50 and wearable art including feltmaking, the opinions expressed in Warp & (non-members) for up to 25 words. embroidery, handknitwear, designer 9 April - 8 May Weft. Nothing may be copied without Adverts must be prepaid by cheque clothes and more. Spectrum the permission of the editor. Where a made payable to “London Guild of 10am - 5pm. Details from 020 8977 communication to the editor or any Weavers”. Send copy and payment to 7558, www.landmarkartscentre.org An exploration of colour by of the officers requires a reply, please the editor. Serendipity Textile Group, the New email or enclose a stamped addressed 20 March – 4 July 2010 Maynard Gallery, Campus West, envelope. Articles and Images for Warp & Weft Quilts 1700 – 2010 Welwyn Garden City, AL8 6BX 2010 The gallery is open whenever Campus Warp & Weft Online Articles (Word, RTF or text files) The V&A will present its first ever West is open. Entrance Free. Details should be emailed to the editor please. exhibition of British quilts, with from 01707 357155 This edition of Warp & Weft is If that is not possible, they should examples dating from 1700 to the available in colour in a private be printed out or typed in as large present day - a unique opportunity 14 April members’ area on the London Guild and clear a typeface as possible, with to view the V&A’s unseen quilt Central Asian Textiles website. Members whose email no end-of-line hyphenation. Images collection as well as key national addresses are known are sent a should preferably be sent in JPEG loans. For more details phone 020 A textile society meeting at the Username and Password that enables format with a minimum 300 dpi 7942 2000 or go to www.vam.ac.uk home of John and Joan Fisher in access to the private area of the resolution at the intended printed size. Berkhamsted. They will show part site. If you do not have the access 23 March – 19 June of their collection of Central Asian details, please email webmaster@ Copy Dates Plain Stripe Check textiles. The topic for ‘show & tell’ is londonguildofweavers.org.uk. a hat or headdress of some kind, or Warp & Weft is produced quarterly Crafts Study Centre, Farnham any textile from Central Asia. 11am Advertising in Warp & Weft in March, June, September and An exhibition of the work of Tim [email protected] December. All contributions Parry-Williams and Japanese kimono Warp & Weft accepts both display (including advertisements) must reach weaver Ikuku Ida. 17 April - 19 May 29 and classified advertising at the the editor by: Tues- Fri 10am – 5pm, Sat 10am – Kaleidoscope: Fibre craftsmanship in editor’s discretion. The cost for 1st February for the March issue 4pm, closed 2-3 April; (Artists’ talk a Colourful World display ads is £15 full page, £10 half 1st May for the June issue Wed 7 April, 5pm booking for the talk page. A layout and setting service 1st August for the September issue is essential) tel: 01252 892953 National exhibition of the Association 1st November for December issue www.csc.ucreative.ac.uk of Guilds of Weavers, Spinners & Dyers. Opening times: Monday to Contributions to What's On Editor 25 March Saturday 10.00 - 17.00. Admission Travels in the Taurus Mountains, free. Mansfield Museum, Leeming If you know of any textile related Theresa Munford Turkey 1990-4 Street, Mansfield, Notts, NG18 1NG. events or exhibitions in the London 27 Bracken Gardens Further info: [email protected] area please let Sharen McGrail Barnes Swedenborg Hall, Bloomsbury know: London SW13 9HW Dr Ken Teague will show slides 020 8748 3737 and bring weavings from his travels [email protected] [email protected] to collect tents for the “Nomads” 020 8521 0355 Page 30 Page 31 London Guild of Weavers, Spinners & Dyers Programme 2010

13 March - meeting 11 September – meeting

Annual General Meeting , followed by Lynn Scott: Alpacas Helga Matos: Creative Weaving (Rescheduled from January, and 4 – 9 October – exhibition replacing the show and tell of artefacts) Diamond (exhibition to mark the 60th 10 April – meeting anniversary of the London Guild)

Rachel Hunt: Cotehele House – old 23 October – meeting (note date!) tapestries, new audiences, limited time, no money Frances Taylor – Spinning a Yarn

8 May – meeting & study groups 13 November – meeting & study groups Eliza McClelland: To Bead or not to Bead Ptolemy Mann: Significant Colour – an 12 June – meeting exploration of colour in design, weaving and architecture Pat Foster: Silk 11 December – meeting 10 July – meeting Christmas Party and competitions - Sue Dye: Confirming old wives’ tales details of this year's themes on page 26 and dismissing red herrings in the use of home-grown dye plants See www.londonguildofweavers.org.uk for additions or updates 14 August – meeting & study groups

Marie Brisou: The Saint Paul’s Vestments Project

All meetings are held at St Stephen’s House 48 Emperor’s Gate London SW7 4HJ Meetings start at 2:30pm, study groups start at 11:30 unless otherwise shown.