Fall 2005 Volume 10 No

Fall 2005 Volume 10 No. 2

A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities Purchase Your Park Pass! Whether walking, bicycling, driving, or riding the fare-free Island Explorer through the park, all must pay the entrance fee. The Acadia National Park $20 weekly pass ($10 in the shoulder seasons) and $40 annual pass are available at the following locations in Maine: ACADIA NATIONAL PARK HEADQUARTERS (on the Eagle Lake Road/Rte. 233 in Bar Harbor) HULLS COVE VISITOR CENTER (off Rte. 3 in Hulls Cove) SAND BEACH ENTRANCE STATION (on the Park Loop Road) ISLAND EXPLORER/ACADIA NATIONAL PARK INFORMATION CENTER (next to the Bar Harbor Village Green and Island Explorer transfer location) SEAWALL CAMPGROUND (off Rte. 102A in Southwest Harbor) BLACKWOODS CAMPGROUND (off Rte. 3 in Otter Creek)

Park pass fees make possible vital maintenance projects in Acadia. President’s Column

TAKING LEAVE

n June 9, 2005 I informed Friends and nationally. L.L. Bean, a corporate icon, is a multi-million-dollar supporter of FOA of Acadia Chairman Dianna Emory, and the Island Explorer, an award-winning Othe board of directors, the staff, and propane bus fleet. Because everyone pulled park officials of my decision to retire. My retire- hard, Acadia is the first national park with an endowed trail system, and rehabilitation of ment letter, edited slightly, is shared below with the footpaths is progressing as envisioned. In all of our supporters. Thank you for your friend- short, it feels right for me to leave with FOA healthy, professionally well staffed, and well ship and generosity over a decade. You have made directed at the governance level. my job enormously satisfying. Best of all, you As important, I sincerely believe that non- profits deserve fresh new executive leader- have helped safeguard a great national asset for ship from time to time, and that it is my all generations. As Thoreau said, “All nature is responsibility to act on that principle. I do so joyously and with high optimism about FOA’s your congratulation and you have cause momen- trajectory, but knowing also that I will miss Peter Travers Peter Travers tarily to bless yourself.” the work and the people. I have great respect for the board, staff, volunteers, mission, our park partners, and the members and donors who have trusted and “It feels right for me to leave Dear Dianna: invested in Friends of Acadia. It has been a with FOA healthy, profes- After much deliberation, I have decided privilege to serve as executive leader, and I to retire as president and CEO of Friends of have learned a tremendous amount.... sionally well staffed, and well Acadia, effective in [February] 2006. At this Finally, I thank you [Dianna], Lee [Judd], directed at the governance point I have no professional plans, but…the and Linda [Lewis] as three very effective transition will be less a true retirement than board chairmen during my service. You have level.” a new phase of my working life. all been wonderfully supportive and I deeply My reasons for leaving are completely pos- appreciate the professional and personal rela- itive. Earlier in my career, someone gave me tionships that have grown from our joint lead- advice I have never forgotten: “A good exec- ership of Friends of Acadia and our shared utive consciously works himself out of a job.” love for this magnificent place, which so I have tried to conduct my professional life many have worked so hard to protect. that way. Of my thirty years in nonprofit con- Thank you, everyone, for one of the best servation, I have spent twenty as chief exec- career experiences of my life. ❧ utive of three organizations [including The Nature Conservancy of Connecticut and American Rivers]. Friends of Acadia is the anomaly in terms of job time logged — ten — W. Kent Olson, President years this October, longer than any previous tenure of mine. Thanks to many hands, Friends is more mature and financially robust than it was when I was hired. Since 1995, membership has doubled and investments have tripled, to $15.7 million. Friends’ annual grant-making has risen six- fold to a projected $933,000 this year, and we have increased to 115 the number of FOA-funded jobs serving the park and communities. FOA is more effective in its work, and the organization enjoys respect in Maine

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 1 BOARD OF DIRECTORS Dianna Emory, Chair Joseph Murphy, Vice Chair Edward L. Samek, Treasurer Jeannine Ross, Secretary

Jeff Charland Gail Cook John Fassak Fall 2005 Sheldon F. Goldthwait Jr. Volume 10 No.2 H. Lee Judd Deborah Lash Linda W. Lewis Edward Lipkin A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities H. Stanley MacDonald Elizabeth Martinez Julia Merck Heather Mitchell Lili Pew Michael Siklosi Howard Solomon Sherry Streeter Eleanor Sullivan Ann Waldron Dick Wolf Bill Zoellick

HONORARY TRUSTEES Eleanor Ames Robert and Anne Bass Edward McCormick Blair Curtis and Patricia Blake Robert and Sylvia Blake Frederic A. Bourke, Jr. FEATURE ARTICLES Tristram and Ruth Colket Shelby and Gale Davis 7 Small Worlds of Glory Cynthia Thayer Frances Fitzgerald 6th in the series Like Nowhere Else on Earth: A Maine author contemplates the infinitesimal. Neva Goodwin Eileen and Paul Growald 9 Waldron’s Warriors Battle On Earl Brechlin Polly and John Guth Paul Haertel A small cadre of volunteers restoring history that continues to guide hikers. Burnham Litchfield Gerrish and Phoebe Milliken 10 Acadia Youth Conservation Corps — Summer Work Marla S. O’Byrne George J. Mitchell Janneke Neilson Teenagers making a difference in Acadia. Nancy Nimick Jack Perkins 2004 ANNUAL REPORT — SPECIAL INSERT Nancy Pyne Louis Rabineau ACTIVITIES/HIGHLIGHTS Nathaniel P. Reed David Rockefeller 5 Memorial — Marianne Edwards Patricia Scull Erwin Soule 13 Stewardship — L.L. Bean Commitment to Friends of Acadia Diana Davis Spencer 19 Ken Olson Honored Donald and Beth Straus 22 Updates 26 Book Reviews FRIENDS OF ACADIA STAFF Mike Alley, Senior Field Crew Leader EPARTMENTS Theresa Begley, Development Associate D Sheree Castonguay, Secretary to the President 1 President’s Column Taking Leave W. Kent Olson Stephanie Clement, Conservation Director Lisa Horsch, Director of Development 3 Superintendent’s View Private Efforts Become Public Benefit Sheridan Steele Merry Kahn, Development Officer 8 Special Person Hugh Hildesley Terry Begley Diana R. McDowell, Director of Operations Marla Stellpflug O’Byrne, Stewardship Director 15 Poem In Late September Sharon M. Carter Cliff Olson, Field Crew Leader 27 Friends of Schoodic Friends in the Gatehouse Garry Levin W. Kent Olson, President Mike Staggs, Administrative Assistant 28 Chairman’s Letter Transitions Dianna Emory 2 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Superintendent’s View

PRIVATE EFFORTS BECOME PUBLIC BENEFIT

t the turn of the last century Charles serving another 12,000 acres of spectacular Eliot, president emeritus of Harvard scenery in the Acadian archipelago. These AUniversity and Northeast Harbor res- donated easements are another testament to ident, was concerned that Mount Desert the commitment of many individuals who Island could be deforested by the arrival of believe that saving the special qualities of the newly invented mobile saw mill. With Acadia is an important legacy to future gen- George B. Dorr, another summer resident, erations. they established the Hancock County In addition to George Dorr, early volun- Trustees of Public Reservations “to acquire, teers included the Village Improvement by gift or purchase, and to hold, maintain, or Associations and Societies which built and improve for public use, lands…which by rea- maintained many of the early trails on MDI, son of scenic beauty, historical interest…may contributing labor and materials for the good become available for such purpose.” And so of all. This volunteer tradition continues — the private effort to protect land on the Island last year, nearly 12,000 volunteers donated began. The first major donation, of the Bowl over 39,000 hours of labor to provide a mar- and Beehive, was received in 1908. Dorr then gin of excellence to Acadia and its visitors. Peter Travers purchased the summit of Green Mountain People who value Acadia and appreciate (now Cadillac) and Sieur de Monts Spring its special qualities contribute in many ways. just before it was sold to developers. It was They fund land acquisitions to complete the “Private philanthropy and vol- not until 1916 that Dorr succeeded in hav- park, grant easements, donate land, under- ing President Wilson establish by Executive write special projects, and volunteer their unteers are key reasons that Order the Sieur de Monts National time to park maintenance, education, and vis- Acadia remains special and Monument in return for donating the 6,000 itor services. acres that had been acquired to the American Friends of Acadia is one of the most effec- continues to improve for all people. Dorr became the first superintend- tive friends groups in the country and it is Americans to enjoy now and ent but was essentially the first park volun- the only one to have established permanent in the future.” teer since he was paid just one dollar a month. endowments for trail and carriage road main- Like Dorr, John D. Rockefeller Jr. recog- tenance. The park would have far fewer sea- nized that preserving land was the key to any sonal employees without FOA’s funding assis- great park and he too worked tirelessly to tance and far fewer volunteers without FOA’s protect and enhance land resulting in the organizational and supervisory help. unique park that Acadia is today. He was Private philanthropy and the dedication of responsible for designing and building the individuals are the reasons that Acadia carriage road system and developing the Park became the first national park east of the Loop Road which required convincing the Mississippi — and the first to be carved from Navy to move its radio station from Otter private lands. Private philanthropy and vol- Cliffs to the Schoodic Peninsula. Before his unteers are key reasons that Acadia remains work was done, Rockefeller had acquired and special and continues to improve for all donated another 10,000 acres of land to Americans to enjoy now and in the future. Acadia National Park and the American peo- The phrase taken from Dorr’s memorial ple. These spectacular lands included Otter “steadfast in his zeal to make the beauties of Cliffs and Thunder Hole. this island available to all” applies to many Today, Acadia is made up of over 35,000 others who have dedicated their time and acres of land owned by the United States in resources to maintaining Acadia National fee — more than 80% of that land was donat- Park as the very special place it is. We all ed by forward thinking and generous peo- appreciate these selfless efforts that indeed ple who believed that the special values of benefit many. ❧ Acadia National Park were worthy of permanent protection. In addition, land owners have donated conservation easements on 180 properties in and around the park pre- — Sheridan Steele, Superintendent Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 3 Notes from Friends

Fall 2005 Volume 10 No. 2

A Magazine about Acadia National Park and Surrounding Communities

Friends of Acadia is a private, nonprofit Dorothy Kerper Monnelly Dorothy organization dedicated to preserving and Rock Pool and Reflections protecting the outstanding natural beauty, ecological vitality, and cultural distinctive- Top Ten Reasons Why … Bar Harbor to catch the bus. This is ness of Acadia National Park and the surrounding communities, and thereby ensur- We just returned from a wonderful week a great way to get the blood flowing ing a high quality experience for visitors at Acadia. Although we have visited the before you tackle Cadillac Mountain! and residents. area many times, this was our first oppor- 6. Bicycles can go too! Each bus has a bike The Journal is published three times a year. tunity to try the Island Explorer bus serv- rack, and there is a special van with a Submissions are welcome. ice. In a word, it is fantastic. There is now bike trailer. If you want to cruise along Opinions expressed are the authors’. little reason to drive your car around Acadia’s famous carriage roads, the You may write us at town or into Acadia. More importantly, Island Explorer is for you! 43 Cottage Street / PO Box 45 there are lots of reasons to ride the Island Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 7. It’s on time! Departures from the Explorer! We offer our “Top Ten” for your or contact us at Village Green are right on schedule. 207 288-3340 consideration. (Hopefully, David 1 800 625-0321 Letterman is listening!) 8. It’s hassle-free! After a long day of hik- www.friendsofacadia.org ing, biking, shopping, etc., you can email: [email protected] 1. It’s free! (You do need to buy a park relax in a bus and leave the driving to pass if you plan to travel into the great operators. EDITOR Acadia.) Marla Stellpflug O’Byrne 9. Ridership counts! Your support will 2. It’s convenient! The friendly drivers help keep the bus service running. POETRY EDITOR will pick you up and drop you off Philip Dane Levin 10. Success breeds success! If you have where you want — even if it is DESIGN been to other national parks, you between regular stops. This service Packard Judd Kaye know that heavy traffic is not limited is great for hikers, because there is PRINTING to Bar Harbor. With the support of no need to return to the starting Penmor Lithographers more visitors each year, the Island point. You can hike almost anywhere Explorer could be a model for other PUBLISHER and get on a bus to return to Bar W. Kent Olson locations around the country. Harbor. 3. It’s good for the environment! Acadia is truly a jewel. You can help keep Because the buses are powered by it that way by riding the Island Explorer liquid natural gas, there is less pol- the next time you visit. lution from exhaust. —Steve Dungan and Pam Weathers 4. Reduced traffic! As more people ride Massachusetts the buses, there will be fewer cars in town and in the park. In fact, we parked our car at our hotel and we Paying It Forward did not drive it again until our vaca- My name is Tasha and I’m 12 years old. I tion was over! Imagine: seven days just wanted you to know that Acadia was without driving anywhere! Even if the most wonderful experience I have ever you are not staying near the Bar had. This $3 is all I can give but I will send Low Tide at Wonderland Harbor terminal, there is a route that more. Cover photographs by Tom Blagden covers many of the outlying hotels. 5. It’s healthy! You do need to walk to —Tasha Radzinski This Journal is printed on chlorine-process free, recycled, the Village Green in the middle of Massachusetts and recyclable stock using soy-based ink. 4 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Memorial IN MEMORIAM We gratefully acknowledge gifts MARIANNE EDWARDS received in the memory of: 1922-2005 Annette Axtmann Anne Bucknell Marianne Edwards and some friends had Wilmer Bradbury a small idea that turned out to be a big idea. Dow L. Case Nineteen years ago they formed a citizens Marianne Edwards group to help protect Acadia National Park Richard Frost and provide volunteers and some money Delores Gottlieb for special projects. Carol Ann Katz Marianne’s inclinations toward service Genelle Kent were natural, and she held degrees in the Peter Travers Alfred Hand helping professions—a bachelor’s in nursing Marianne Edwards, with former chairman Lee Judd, at FOA’s 2001 Annual Meeting. Brenton S. Halsey and a master’s in nursing education. She was George A. Huskins married to a military surgeon. She told her her namesake award to our own Jeannine Penny Longmaid family, which included five children, that she Ross, one of many selfless people Friends of Grace Edwards Llyod chose the flight nurse specialty “because it Acadia has publicly honored over the years. Sally Speare Lutyens was the top, the hardest one.” We like to think that Marianne took away Bobby Mickschutz The little nonprofit Marianne founded in from the 2001 celebration a renewed satis- Minnie Moberg 1986 with $50 from her pocket has since faction at the organization she germinated Arthur Pfeiffer donated $5.6 million to Acadia National Park and a measure of hope for where it was head- Lucille Pfister and community entities, packed away $16 ed. She went home to Rockport, where she Gordon Ramsdell million in endowments and other invest- had helped nurture another group, Friends Algeron and Elizabeth Roberts ments, this year made possible the employ- of Halibut Point State Park. Sam Shanaberger ment of 115 people serving the park, and Marianne died on June 21, at age 83. Her Janet G. Short won a number of public service recognitions. obituary said, “Anyone who knew her would Edith Vignos President Reagan marked her accom- know that she would encourage people to Patricia Wagner plishments by honoring Marianne and honor her by doing community service and Friends of Acadia with a volunteer award in volunteering in the parks.” A humble sug- IN NOMINE gestion—and a time tested idea. the White House. Her youngest son, John, We gratefully acknowledge gifts said Marianne displayed the award “not on The Maine poet Edwin Arlington Robinson received in the name of: (1869-1935) had some words about the a wall, not in a drawer,” but in a place where Rachel Barensky effects of any one person’s trusteeship of a it had “hidden prominence.” That would be George and Anna Buck civic asset: a closet — she hung her award in a coat clos- Jake Egelberg et. Whenever the door was opened, people Whether you will or not Dianna Emory could see it. In this way Marianne balanced You are a king…for you are Becky and Brett Gordon pride and modesty. One of the time-tested few Charles Nowack Marianne Edwards lived in Hulls Cove, That leave the world, Ariana and Camilla Rockefeller Maine and later in Rockport, Massachusetts. When they are gone, not the Hanna Caroline Rubin In 2001 she returned to Mount Desert Island Same place that it was. Mr. and Mrs. Pernia at Friends of Acadia’s invitation to let us Mark what you leave. Nathan Simon thank her at our annual meeting. Mary Ann Smrz At the meeting, Marianne took the stand- Marianne was that kind of “king,” if you Sheridan Steele ❧ ing ovation and accolades in stride, made a will. JUNE 1 – OCTOBER 20 few remarks in a frail voice, and presented —W. Kent Olson

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 5 ACADIA by the numbers FORESIGHT & GENEROSITY

Sargent Mountain Summit

Riding the Island Explorer

332,569 Total ridership in 2005

140,931 Total ridership in the first season (6/23/99 – 9/4/99)

7% Ridership total increase over 2004

1% Ridership total decrease from 2003

22%

Increase in ridership at Schoodic DeWolfe George over 2004 Schoodic Point

4% ESTATE PLANNING Park visitation decrease Preserving and protecting those things that we all hold dear — our quality of from 2004 life, a distinctive heritage, and the integrity of Mount Desert Island’s 4,074 natural wonders — is a wise investment. You can help protect Acadia forever. Summer daily average ridership It’s simple. Add only one of the following sentences to your will, or a codicil:

1,184 1. I hereby give ______% of my residuary estate to Friends of Fall daily average ridership Acadia, Inc., a Maine charitable corporation, P.O. Box 45, Bar Harbor, Maine 04609, for its charitable purposes. 1,839,159 Total ridership since buses started running (6/23/99) 2. I hereby bequeath $______to Friends of Acadia, Inc., a Maine charitable corporation, P.O. Box 45, Bar Harbor, Maine August 1, 2006 04609, for its charitable purposes. Date projected to carry the 2 millionth rider 3. I hereby devise the following property to Friends of Acadia, Inc., a Maine charitable corporation, P.O. Box 45, Bar Harbor, Maine 16 04609, for its charitable purposes: [legal description of property]. Number of buses running on MDI

1 For more information, contact Lisa Horsch at 1-800-625-0321, Number of buses running email her at [email protected], or visit our at Schoodic website at www.friendsofacadia.org.

6 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Like Nowhere Else on Earth 6th in the Series SMALL WORLDS OF GLORY Cynthia Thayer ince I live in Gouldsboro, I go to the like shrimpettes (that’s what I called them) blueberry bushes thick with white blossoms. Schoodic section of the park, the quiet and pollywogs and those itsy white daisies I view the small offshore islands through Splace, the Acadia that’s close to me. barely poking through their own leaves. Queen Ann’s lace. I crawl past them toward When we moved here in 1976, we visited Now, in my sixties I stoop a bit, look down a cluster of pineapple plants, usually spurned Schoodic every Sunday for a picnic or to look as I walk, afraid to trip, not as confident as I because they’re a sign of poor soil. When I at the ducks. Bill and I drove the loop, once was. And, today, like I did in childhood, rub the yellow nubbin between my fingers stopped at several pull-offs, and hauled out I see the small things. the scent of pineapple infuses the air. binoculars to speculate as to the number of The Schoodic section of Acadia gives us eiders there might be in the raft just off both the grand and the infinitesimal. Scenes Blueberry Hill or between the mainland and “In an epiphany, I know why of Cadillac in the distance, bonsaied pines Little Moose Island. I am drawn to this place. It’s growing out of ledge, ocean smashing onto As our lives became more complicated with granite at the point, are all truly splendorous. grandchildren, expanded farm, new musical the small things.” But if you are a small child or an aging adult interests, our Sunday drives became sporadic. or you get right down on your belly, you Instead of “Time to go to Schoodic,” we said, will experience the microcosmic world of “We haven’t been to Schoodic for ages. Want I walk crab-like on hands and feet to a glory that we often miss in the rush to live in to go?” Now that we are hovering on the edge small pool in the rocks at the point, ancient our modern world. ❧ of elderliness, we have found time to go back gold and yellow lichens cushioning my more often. palms. I lie down and peer into its blackness. CYNTHIA THAYER is I ask myself why I’m drawn to the place. Periwinkles speckle its stone banks and mos- the author of three nov- A quick drive with Bill shows us the big quito larvae hang on its surface. And some- els, A Certain Slant of scene. Yes, of course, it’s one of the most beau- thing else wiggles under the surface. “Oh. Light, Strong for Potatoes, tiful spots on the Maine coast. And yes, the Shrimpettes.” I say it out loud in a child’s and most recently, waves crash on outcropping rocks that point voice and quickly look around to make sure A Brief Lunacy, from toward Spain and picture-postcard scenes I’m the only one to hear. Algonquin Books. She pop up at every curve. Just at the back of the pool, one blue flag also writes for Northern When we stop at our old picnic site, mem- iris struggles twixt rectangular dikes of black New England Journey, ories of my parents, now long dead, become basalt wedged between pink granite. A rose AAA and teaches fiction writing with clear. My mother spreading out my best table- bush grows seemingly out of rock and at the Turnstone Writers Workshop and Schoodic cloth and sending one of the children to pick top, a deep pink flower. I sniff its center. Arts for All. She and her husband, Bill, live on wild flowers to place into the Wedgwood vase At Blueberry Hill, within my reach are wild an organic farm in Gouldsboro, on the that she insisted we bring in the picnic bas- strawberries, green with a tinge of pink, and Schoodic peninsula. ket. My father showing my son how to skip stones into the still water on the lee side. I pick up a very flat stone, hold it in my throw- ing hand, stoop low, and heft it as hard as I can. It skips five times toward the lighthouse. But today I drive down alone and stop along the way. A gray granite boulder plays host to barnacles and I stoop close enough to see the creatures inside. Rockweed hangs from it, grasping clumps of mussels. On the high side of the boulder, where the sea’s held at bay, beach peas bloom in pinks and purples, hoping to attract a wasp or perhaps a monarch. And in an epiphany, I know why I am drawn to this place. The small things. When I was a child, like all children, I was much Cynthia Thayer shorter than I am now. I noticed small things Rocks at Schoodic Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 7 Special Person

HUGH HILDESLEY

special friend helps Friends of Acadia gross over $510,000 at the Benefit “A Gala.” Perhaps you read this news in Mount Desert Island’s local newspapers last August. Now in its 16th year, the Friends of Acadia Benefit Gala has been able to build upon the success of each preceding year. Over the past seven years, auction proceeds have increased 408% — from $100,000 in 1998 to an aston- ishing $510,000 in 2005. This amount of growth requires passion and commitment and, perhaps most importantly, professional fostering. The kind provided by an auction- eer who is both charismatic and pithy, Hugh Hildesley of Sotheby’s. The secret of the Gala’s success can be attributed to several factors — a very dynam- ic gala committee; the generosity of hundreds of businesses, artists, and individuals that donate an eclectic mix of auction items; a fes- tively decorated tent; food & drink galore; and, finally, a faithful following of attendees that returns year after year, bringing more friends with them. All of these factors are brought together by Hugh. “He took our live auction to a new level. With a twinkle in his eye and a witty remark, he encouraged bidders to support Friends of Acadia as never before, says Malinda Crain, a former Benefit Gala Chairwoman. “I was always impressed with how quickly Hugh could size up the auction items and his audience and bring out the best in both. Hugh was a pleasure to work with — responsive, professional and very, very funny.” In 2000, Sotheby’s became the Gala’s Peter Travers Underwriting Sponsor. In addition to their Hugh Hildesley in full cry. sterling reputation and expertise, Sotheby’s sponsorship included the experienced guid- and Selling at Auction, published by W.W. Hugh made his first visit to Pretty Marsh ance of Hugh Hildesley. Hugh is Executive Norton. And, if all this were not enough to dis- in 1965. “I’ve been coming to Mount Desert Vice President of Sotheby’s North and South tinguish Hugh, he is perhaps the only ordained Island every summer for over 40 years,” he America. He was educated at the Sherborne Episcopal priest in the auction world. remarks, “and one of the gems of this com- School and Brasenose College, Oxford, and In the 44 years Hugh has been with munity is Acadia National Park. I cannot studied Dutch and Flemish Old Master paint- Sotheby’s, his expertise has spanned all areas think of a cause that I would rather support ings at the Rijksbureau Voor Kunsthistorische including client development, auctioneering, than this extraordinary endeavor.” Friends Documentatie in The Hague. In 1961, he regional operations, and professional train- is grateful to Hugh for sharing his exceptional began his career at Sotheby’s in the Old ing. He conducts more than 50 charitable talents, making it ever so easy and fun to “give Master Paintings department in London. He auctions each year for Sotheby’s, raising mil- back” to Acadia National Park. ❧ is the author of The Complete Guide to Buying lions of dollars for a variety of philanthropies. — Terry Begley

8 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Volunteers

WALDRON’S WARRIORS BATTLE ON

aintaining the system of cairns that mark the hiking trails in Acadia MNational Park has often been described as a losing battle. Uninformed visitors tinker with these valuable piles of stones, either adding more until they become unsta- ble and topple on their own or, in some instances, knocking them over deliberately. And then there are those who cannot seem to resist constructing their own cairns, often confusing hikers or directing them off the beaten trail into more environmentally- sensitive areas. Trail crews and volunteers are constantly repairing damaged cairns and removing ille- Earl Brechlin gal ones. A Bates cairn on the Champlain Mountain Bear Brook Trail. Along with the friendly painted blue blazes, and the occasional tin marker on trees, cairns tor” rock was placed with the idea that the the spring and fall before seasonal crews are are the main method used by hikers for route point of the rock indicated the direction of in place. The volunteers make note of any finding, particularly on open ledges and sum- the trail. problems, replace a missing or fallen indi- mits where other landmarks are few and far Over the past few years, ANP recreation cator stone, and remove unauthorized addi- between. There is no set pattern to cairn specialist Charlie Jacobi has instituted a pro- tions. Traditionally Warriors swap off for the placement. When asked by a volunteer how gram to replace conical cairns with Bates second half of the season to prevent them far apart to set them, one trail foreman markers on trails where they were original- from getting bored hiking the same trail over replied, “Imagine you’re from the big city, it’s ly used — on the eastern side of Mount and over. your first hike, it’s foggy and getting dark. Desert Island. Some of the trails include By having the volunteers regularly check How far apart do you want them?” Dorr Mountain (south ridge), the Bear Brook on the cairns, Jacobi can see if any patterns Trail up the north ridge of Champlain, emerge and plan appropriate measures. And, “Along with the friendly Gorham Mountain, Cadillac South Ridge, by ensuring that the majority of hikers see Upper Beachcroft Trail (Huguenot Head), only correctly placed and constructed cairns, painted blue blazes, and the and Penobscot Mountain. temptation to tinker with them is reduced. occasional tin marker on This summer crews worked on Cadillac Charlie Jacobi’s crews include this sum- North Ridge, the Gorge Path (the upper sec- mer’s Friends of Acadia Ridge Runners — trees, cairns are the main tion at Cadillac Summit) and the reopened Jesse Kucenic, Pete Berquist, Pat Mahoney, method used by hikers for Sargent East Cliffs Trail. Jessi Graff, and Catie Carter — as well as route finding, particularly With plenty of work to do related to the local volunteers including Julia Schloss, Jen Acadia Trails Forever effort initiated by Drew, Doug Monteith, Mike Hays, Bill Ames, on open ledges and summits Friends of Acadia, the park’s paid trail crew and Laura Scholtz. Vesta Kowalski recently where other landmarks are has no shortage of projects. Still, they have retired from the Waldron’s Warriors cadre. managed to install Bates cairns on several Over time, Jacobi hopes people will come few and far between.” trails. One area where they can use some to understand and appreciate the effort to assistance, however, is monitoring those integrate both the cultural and natural land- Long before Acadia adopted the familiar trails to see if unwitting visitors have dam- scape at Acadia. “Bates cairns are easier to conical shape for cairns, trail pathfinder aged or replaced the cairns. build and maintain,” he explains. “They Waldron Bates, who laid out many of the That’s where Jacobi got the idea for have reestablished an important part of the paths on the island’s eastern side, specified Waldron’s Warriors. historic character of the island hiking trail a unique marking system. It consisted of a For three years now he has called on a system.” ❧ pair of large base stones spaced a foot or two dedicated group of hikers to volunteer to apart and spanned horizontally by a narrow, hike the trails to look for damage and make EARL BRECHLIN is the editor of the Mount flat stone, not unlike a small table. In the minor repairs. Each Warrior is asked to hike Desert Islander and a member of Waldron’s center of the flat stone an oblong “indica- a particular trail every couple of weeks in Warriors.

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 9 Acadia Youth Conservation Corps

SUMMER WORK

very summer, with the assistance of Friends of Acadia, 16 teenagers work Ewith Acadia National Park crew on trail, carriage road, and natural resource projects in the park. Friends makes an annual grant to the park to pay student and leader salaries, purchases work boots and T-shirts for the Corps, and provides a scholarship at the end of the program for each AYCC member. The park provides the leadership, train- ing, tools, and materials. AYCC corps members work hard during the eight week season and park crews take them seriously. They train the AYCC in everything from shifting hundred-pound rocks with rock bars, to moving boulders with high lines (a cable and pulley system strung between trees), to planting vegetation that will close an unauthorized, or “social,” trail.

AYCC projects this year included: • Reconstruction of an abandoned section of the Maple Springs Trail • Reconstruction of the Pond Trail Moving rock with a high line on the Pond Trail. • Opening and rebuilding stone culverts and drainages along the carriage road west of Jordan Pond • Constructing a more sustainable bicycle connection between the Park Loop Road and carriage road in the Day Mountain area • Clearing drains, installing signs, and cutting vegetation on trails in the Sargent Mountain area

One of the Corps members summed up the spirit of what we heard from others, “Being at Acadia has shown me a lot about how much work is really put into the park’s trails and carriage roads. I never realized how much work it takes to preserve trails. But my time here has been fun, learning how to maintain eroded trails and re-building rock walls. Now that I’m done I feel like I’ve accomplished so much and that makes me feel great! My advice is to keep AYCC. It’s a great experience.” Before we close the book on this season, Hauling bog walk planks on the Giant Slide Trail. Removing vegetation from drainage along the Deer Friends would like to say thank you to the Brook Trail. 10 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Acadia Youth Conservation Corps 2005. long-time benefactors who make this program possible. And we take our hats off to the teens who were the 2005 Acadia Youth Conservation Corps—your work will endure beyond your expectations. ❧

— Marla S. O’Byrne

AYCC 2005 Anna Adams Stephen Austin Zachary Clark Douglas Compton III Keith Fisher Luke Hartson Joshua Howie Brittany Kolb Jeremiah Labrie Adam Maier Keith Miller Nathaniel Paine Christopher Ring Bruce Romano Dylan Stellpflug Eric Wise Crushing rock for trail base layer on the Maple Spring Trail. Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 11 VOLUME 5 NUMBER 24 WWW.MDISLANDER.COM © 2005 MOUNT DESERT ISLANDER 50 PAGES• 5 SECTIONS 75 CENTS THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 Your Locally Owned, Community Newspaper FOA president plans to step down Volunteer! 130-mile trail system, and obtain- ments. “Ken’s a good friend and By Earl Brechlin ing a grant of $1 million from an endless crusader for the L.L. Bean to help fund the Island preservation of Acadia National Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday BAR HARBOR — Friends of Explorer shuttle bus system. Park,” he said. “I will personal- Acadia President Ken Olson mornings in Acadia, FOA has also optioned a par- ly miss our close working rela- June – October announced this week that he will cel of land in Trenton at tionship. He did a lot of great leave the organization in early Crippen’s Creek for a possible things for Acadia.” For information, 2006. Mr. Olson, who has been intermodal transportation center Mr. Olson said he has been call 288-3934, or with FOA for more than a decade, and has vigorously defended contemplating this move for plans to step down to pursue other check our website at park interests in the Schoodic some time. He indicated to the interests. “It’s time for me to move section of the park. This board some time ago that they www.friendsofacadia.org on,” he said in an interview last included rebuffing a state should be thinking about suc- Friday. attempt to gain control of the cession. “I finally made up my “We [Friends of Acadia] have former Navy base there and mind last week,” he said. By an excellent staff and an outstanding board of directors,” Mr. Olson said. Still, after a 30-year career with conservation groups, he feels the time is right to leave. He will begin a “working retirement” and has a list of things he wants to accomplish, “Acadia is in our blood” including teaching, some work out west, consulting and personal PO Box 52 writing. Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 “Ken is one of the finest pro- fessionals with whom I have ever worked,” said FOA board chairman Dianna Emory. “Beyond his dedication and endless hours of hard work for Friends of Acadia, EARL BRECHLIN PHOTO I have watched him work on Friends of Acadia President Ken Olson announced this week that behalf of our regional, national he plans to leave the organization early next year. and international communities. The national conservation com- opposing a heavy timber cut on announcing his departure now, munity, the Friends Alliance, the 1,600 acres just outside the there will be plenty to conduct National Park Foundation, the park boundary. a search for a new president. “I national park system and, certain- Other projects have included have recommended to the board ly, Acadia National Park and village connector trails and more that they conduct a nationwide Mount Desert Island — these and than $4 million in grants to search,” Mr. Olson said. many other communities have Acadia and to projects in sur- Mr. Olson said he is most felt Ken’s impact,” she continued. rounding communities. proud to have worked with peo- “He is a creative visionary who “I’ve been in the park service ple who know how to operate as successfully makes his ideas real- for a long time and I’ve seen lots a team. “Friends of Acadia is a ities and who is always willing to of Friends groups,” said Acadia ‘we’ proposition,” he said. “So go the extra mile for his mission.” National Park Superintendent many people pull together to During Mr. Olson’s tenure Sheridan Steele. “FOA is one of create this great organization.” FOA grew exponentially. Some the most successful and effective He cited staff, the board, donors, Owner: Jeff Butterfield of the accomplishments he is in large measure due to Ken’s members and park employees. author of Acadia: A Climber’s Guide most proud of include completion leadership and strengths— he is “It doesn’t fall on any one indi- 24 Cottage Street, Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 of the carriage road restoration an excellent advocate and a good vidual.” 207-288-2521 work, raising $13 million for the manager of operations.” Reprinted with permission of www.acadiaclimbing.com Acadia Trails Forever project to Deputy Superintendent Len Mount Desert Islander. rehabilitate and endow the park’s Bobinchock echoed those senti- 12 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Stewardship

L.L. BEAN COMMITMENT TO FRIENDS OF ACADIA SURPASSES $2.25 MILLION overnor John E. Baldacci announced arships for the Schoodic Education Adventure, on September 14 that outdoor retail- and it creates L.L. Bean Research Fellowships Ger L.L. Bean has pledged another for scientific study in Acadia National Park. $1.25 million to Friends of Acadia for the The two programs will be administered by Island Explorer bus service and two other the Acadia Partners for Science and Learning, programs in Acadia National Park. The a non-profit organization founded to assist the announcement was made at the opening National Park Service with managing the reception for the first U.S. Ecotourism Schoodic Education and Research Center, the Conference being held in Bar Harbor. The former Navy base on the Schoodic Peninsula grant brings Bean’s total contributions to that reverted to the Park Service. Friends of Acadia to more than $2.25 million The L.L. Bean Kids in Acadia Program will since 2002. fund scholarships annually for up to 100 The Island Explorer is a network of 17 Maine middle school children to attend the propane-powered buses serving Acadia Schoodic Education Adventure, a residential National Park and the surrounding commu- field education program run by the National nities. Over the past seven years, the bus sys- Park Service at the Schoodic Education and tem has carried over 1.79 million passengers, Research Center. Participating schools will also reduced private vehicle trips by more than be able to apply for limited transportation 662,000, eliminated approximately 9.8 tons funding to the program, and teachers involved of smog causing pollutants, and reduced will be able to attend a one week teacher insti- greater than 6,200 tons of greenhouse gases. tute associated with the program. L.L. Bean’s “L.L. Bean has a long, rich history in Maine, gift will also enable the Park Service to hire and with that has always come the desire to additional college and graduate student interns help steward the state’s natural resources,” said to assist with the education program, allow- Shawn Gorman, L.L. Bean Senior Manager of ing the park to expand the number of weeks Partnership Marketing. “We are excited to con- that the Schoodic Education Adventure runs. tinue to help protect this fabulous national park The L.L. Bean Research Fellowship Program through our partnership with Friends of Acadia will be open to undergraduate and graduate and the Island Explorer.” students, agency scientists, college and uni- Bean has sponsored the Island Explorer since versity faculty, and private sector research pro- BRUCE JOHN RIDDELL 2002, when the company’s historic $1 million fessionals interested in performing field LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE donation to Friends of Acadia enabled the research at Acadia in the physical, biological, Explorer to extend operations through ecological, social, and cultural sciences. The 27 PINE STREET Columbus Day and this year enabled the program will award a minimum of five BAR HARBOR, MAINE 04609 Explorer to purchase and operate two vans and research fellowships each year ($5,000 max- 207.288.9668 bicycle trailers that carry bicyclists directly imum grant size), beginning in 2006. The goal Creative & Innovative Landscape Architecture between the Bar Harbor Village Green and of the L.L. Bean Research Fellowship Program for Residential & Estate Gardens Jordan Pond. This season, the first summer of is to foster research at Acadia that will further operations for the bicycle trailers, 5,408 bicy- scientific knowledge, answer resource man- clists were transported. The nonprofit agement questions, and create long-term field Downeast Transportation, Inc. operates the research partnerships at the Schoodic buses and vans. Education and Research Center. “L.L. Bean is a significant conservation stew- “L.L. Bean has been a tremendous partner ard of Maine,” said Ken Olson, President of for Acadia National Park,” said Sheridan Friends of Acadia. “We are proud to count Steele, Superintendent of Acadia National Bean as a major partner in the Island Explorer Park. “Not only did they enable the Island bus service and now other programs in the Explorer bus system to expand operations, but park.” The donation to Friends of Acadia will they have invested in programs at the be spread over five years. Schoodic Education and Research Center, a The grant also establishes the L.L. Bean Kids facility that will help the Park foster long-term in Acadia Program, supplying student schol- relationships with scientists and educators.”❧ Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 13 The Burning Tree Friends of Acadia Poetry Prize GOURMET SEAFOOD VEGETARIAN SPECIALTIES

Route 3 Otter Creek 5 Miles from Bar Harbor Open Daily from 5:00 pm 288-9331 George DeWolfe George Larch, Ship Harbor

NATURE POETRY COMPETITION Charles K. Foster, Inc. “The future of this world lies in the relationship we have with it. WHOLESALE PLUMBING Poetry helps develop an understanding and appreciation of —and a AND connection with —the world around us.” HEATING SUPPLIES — Kate Barnes, former Maine Poet Laureate PO BOX 666 55 FOSTER STREET ELLSWORTH, MAINE 04605 Submissions are invited to the 2006 Friends of Acadia Poetry Prize. The 667-5346 667-5347 three top ranked poems will be published in the Friends of Acadia Journal (print and online), and awarded cash prizes by category.

GUIDELINES Nature-based poems of 30 lines or fewer. Include cover sheet stating author’s name and address and poem title. Do not include author’s name on manuscript(s). Author’s may submit only three poems for consideration. Entries must be original, unpublished, and not submitted elsewhere. There is no fee to enter.

Deadline: January 30, 2006.

Send to: Editor Friends of Acadia Journal CLARK POINT GALLERY P.O. Box 45 Bar Harbor, ME 04609 19TH & EARLY 20TH CENTURY PAINTINGS OF [email protected] MAINE AND MOUNT DESERT ISLAND

46 CLARK POINT ROAD • SOUTHWEST HARBOR, ME 04679 Entries will not be returned. 207-244-0941 • WWW.CLARKPOINTGALLERY.COM OPEN DAILY 10 - 5 JUNE 15TH—SEPTEMBER 15TH

14 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Poem

2004 FRIENDS OF ACADIA POETRY AWARD 3rd Prize

IN LATE SEPTEMBER

As dusk falls, a harvest moon rises into sheets of rain. Time carves slivers of flesh from its face. When winter comes, only a splinter of bone will remain.

Alders fold saffron leaves against the night. Limbs frame a vee of canadian geese — a thousand miles retraced. Dusk falls. A harvest moon rises into sheets of rain.

Windfalls gather wasps. A barn owl calls out its name. Field mice take refuge in the darkest place, but when winter comes, only splinters of bone will remain.

Leaves smell sweet; unmown pastures lie heavy with grain. Dusk falls. On the pond, a pair of ducks displaces the image of moon rising in sheets of rain.

Orion’s sword rotates toward lunar terrain. Night pivots, the passage of time can never be retraced — when winter comes, only splinters of moon will remain.

This is the season we are returned to, again and again — so many losses cannot be erased. Dusk falls. A harvest moon rises into sheets of rain. When winter comes, only splinters of bone will remain.

— Sharon M. Carter

SHARON CARTER obtained her medical degree from Cambridge University. She is a co-editor of Literary Salt, www.literarysalt.com, received a Hedgebrook residency in 2001, and was a Jack Straw Writer in 2003.

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 15 GRAVE’S SUPERMARKETS New Members 86 Cottage Street We’re pleased to welcome our newest Friends: Bar Harbor James and Beverly Acree, KY Robert Dudley, CA Peter and Helen Allison, CT Nicole Durfey, RI Chip and Lucille Anderson, ME Michael and Barbara Ende, MA Where Shopping is a Pleasure. Joseph and Susan Anghinetti, ME Anne B. Evans, FL Anonymous Kent and Debra Evans, IN Adea Solutions, Inc., TX Sanford Evans and Terry Zaroff-Evans, ME L. Suzie Austin, VA Warren and Jill Fabel, ME Mr. and Mrs. John Avril, OH Emily Fenichel, DC ATM Major Credit Cards Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Avril, OH Raymond and Helen Ferguson, OH Ken Bahm and Chris Smith, ME Eileen Figueroa, PA Michelle Bailen, MD Charles Finch, NC Peter Barbano, NJ Les and Jill Fleisher, ME Mr. and Mrs. John A. Barbara, Jr., OH Kathleen and Rob Flory, ME A.H. and Ruth Barrows, OH Eleanor Folley, ME Richard and Ann Barton, ME Joan Fong, NY Andrew and Ann Barton, OH Margaret Fowler, ME H. Hudson and Myra Baumes, OH Catherine Frank, CT Maggie Beals, ME A. Gerald and Ellen Frost, PA Ellie Coolidge Behrstock, MA Ruth Frost, NJ Jeanne Benedict, ME Lance Fuller, ME Shelley Berger, PA Richard and Nancy Gabel, PA Thomas and Geraldine Bethel, PA Mike and Sally Gaburo, OH Morton and Doris Botshon, PA John and Debbie Gilbert, CT Roger and Barbara Bowen, DC John and Gail Gilchrist, ME William Brewster, ME David and Maria Glaser, ME Arthur Brieger, CT Joel D. Gluckman, PA Rebecca and Frank Bronson, ME Leonard and Yetta Gold Anne Brown, NY Marcia Goldstein, FL Richard and Bonnie Brown, MA Katherine and Farrokh Golesorkhi, NY Dinny Browning, ME Linda Marie Golier, ME Dorothy Bruce, ME Brett and Becky Gordon, NC Susan Bruce, ME Jennifer Gorman, ME John and Ann Bullock, KY Carrie and Paul Gosiger, OH Joseph Burak and Lynne Lieberman, PA Jack and Nancy Gottschalk, OH Ralph Burchenal, OH Carrie Graham, ME Don and Sharon Burkel, NY Margaret Grammer, ME Sarah Burkman, VA Francis and Leanna Greene, MD McBee Butcher, PA Robert and Laura Griffen, DC Melissa Callahan, MA Dan Griswold, ME George and Linda Callard, OH Marge and Jim Gryta, NJ Marc and Ann Cannon, FL A. Heathcote and Hazel Nettell Hacker, PA Kevin Carley and Ellen Grant, ME Jan C. Hall, OH Thomas and Susan Carruthers, OH Kevin and Sonia Hankins, GA Jeff and Sheree Castonguay, ME James and Kathy Harris, VA Christine Cesek, IL Mary Harris, VA Deborah Chafee, NH William Harrison, OH Barb Chase, ME Ed Hart, ME Sophia and David Chiang, NJ Kirsten Hatfield, NJ Milt and Petie Christie, ME Thomas and Martha Hays, MO Kevin Clarke, MA Aaron E. Henckler, MA Robert A. Clarkson, IL Mary Ann Higgins, ME Burton and Susan Closson, OH Joseph Hill, PA Jay and Verna Cocks, ME Marilyn and G. Carlton Hill, OH David Collins, ME Warren and Marjorie Hinsch, OH Lynn Cook and Troy Ray, PA Elizabeth Hoban, IL Paul Coolidge, MA Mr. and Mrs. Sewall Hodges, NY Emilie and Frank Coolidge, MA Judy Holmes and Jim Progin, ME Christy A. Cooper, FL Shirley and Virginia Holt, PA Jerry and Lee Cowan, OH John S. Hopple, OH Karen Cox, MA Joan and Burt Horn, PA David and Lee Crapps, FL Richard and Julie Horsch, NY Dorothy and Dick Creamer, MA Robert Horsch and Serena Keeney, MD Stefan and Brooke Cushman, NY Steven Horsch, VT Debra Damon, MA Amy Horschak, NY Cynthia Daughtery, ME Eric Horschak, ME Carol De Cola, OH Matt and Sara Hougan, ME Theo and Fiona de Koning, ME Howard Howard, NY Kate Debo, OH Linda Hughes, NY for gifts Melinda Dennis, MA John W. Iaria, NJ and other fine things Walter and Marilyn Dickhaut, ME Peter and Bobbie Ireton, OH Mr. and Mrs. David Dimling, NC Lawrence and Audrey Isdaner, PA Doug Dix, CT Mel and Gay Lynn Jackson, ME Northeast Harbor 276-3300 Patricia Donovan, VA John and Candace Jalbert, ME Calvert and Julia Dooman, NY Myers Jay, ME 1-800-673-3754 Baynorth Capital LLC, MA Neil Jensen, ME

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Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 17 Sheree Castonguay joined the staff in April TEAM FOA and serves as the Secretary to the President. FORESIGHT & Sheree is a former Realtor and accountant GENEROSITY any Friends of Acadia Journal read- from Dover, New Hampshire but has deep ers already know that after ten years roots in the area. Her father grew up in Bar Mof forwarding FOA and Park initia- Harbor and her grandfather, the late Dr. John tives President Ken Olson announced his B. Ells, was a Main Street dentist for whom retirement effective in 2006 (see page 1). the Bar Harbor town pier is dedicated. However, many friends may not have heard Stephanie Clement celebrates her 8th year about other changes at Friends of Acadia as Conservation Director at Friends of Acadia. this year. Stephanie serves as the primary contact with After many years of dedicated service, park staff for many FOA park policy initia- Development Director Kelly Dickson left tives. Some of Stephanie’s current projects Friends of Acadia to return to her previous include public transit, air and water quality career in journalism at the Mount Desert initiatives, and advocating at the local, state, Islander. We thank Kelly for her many years and federal level on behalf of the park. Dorothy Kemper Monnelly Dorothy Ducks

MEMBERSHIP Join our 3,000 members from all over the world in funding necessary park projects and new initiatives. Member benefits include:

• A one-year subscription to the Friends of Acadia Journal, published three times annually, highlighting the beauty of Acadia, issues facing the park, and Friends of Acadia programs, activities, and events

• A Friends of Acadia window decal

• A Friends of Acadia bookmark Standing (from left): Mike, Diana, Merry, Marla, Lisa, and Ken. Seated (from left): Stephanie, Terry, and Sheree.

• The satisfaction of knowing you’re helping preserve Acadia for this gen- of service to FOA. We are grateful she didn’t Director of Operations Diana McDowell, eration and for all time move far away. celebrating her 8th year, handles all financial Merry Kahn, the development officer han- matters — annual budget and accounting, dling all membership and annual fund general ledger, spreadsheet analysis, leading Already a Friends of Acadia efforts, is Friends of Acadia’s newest employ- indicators, and the yearly audit. Diana is the member? Give a gift membership ee. Merry hails from Iowa and joins the staff principal liaison to the Investment & Finance and treat a friend or loved one to after a career in library science in educa- and Audit Committees. tion. Also in the development office is Lisa Marla O’Byrne, who started at FOA in 1996 a one-year subscription to the Horsch, the new Director of Development as Marla Major, is the Stewardship Director Journal plus other special benefits. and Donor Relations. Lisa has spent her and Editor of the Friends of Acadia Journal. fundraising career in higher education, work- Marla manages many of FOA ’s in-park and ing for the College of William and Mary’s community programs, such as ACADIA TRAILS $500 million campaign just prior to mov- FOREVER implementation, village connector ing to Friends of Acadia. Lisa serves as the trails development, wheelchair accessibility, For more information, liaison to the Development Committee. Acadia Youth Conservation Corps, and vol- contact us at Celebrating her 9th year at Friends of Acadia, 207-288-3340, unteer stewardship. Development Associate Terry Begley contin- 1-800-625-0321, Administrative Assistant Mike Staggs, cel- [email protected], ues to manage events at Friends of Acadia, ebrating his 5th year, handles the general or visit our website at including the hugely successful Benefit Gala. office needs, computer systems, and network www.friendsofacadia.org. When not planning events, Terry processes support. He is responsible for our recycling gifts and acknowledgements for the devel- program, Earth Day event, and ensuring that opment office. the office runs smoothly. ❧ 18 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal KEN OLSON HONORED ummer 2005 brought honors for Friends of Acadia president Ken SOlson’s accomplishments and commitment to the protection of special lands. At its 33rd Commencement, in June, College of the Atlantic conferred on Olson the honorary degree of Master of Philosophy in Human Ecology. The award recognized his “lifelong commitment to the well-being of our natural and social environment, and [his] leadership in the betterment of MDI and the region beyond.” College of the Atlantic president Steve Katona said, “This degree recognizes the extraordinary leadership that Ken Olson has provided for land preservation on Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and elsewhere in the United States. It is a symbol of

Ken’s superb achievements and our bound- Robin Farrin, courtesy of College the Atlantic less respect for him.” Sam Hamill, chairman of College of the Atlantic’s Board of Trustees (right), confers an honorary Master of Philosophy At its annual meeting in September, the degree on Olson, June 4. Natural Resources Council of Maine pre- wilderness is managed the way it was Island so we could march on July 4 in Bar sented its 2005 Environmental Award for intended to be.” Harbor without fear of losing life or limb; Lifetime Achievement to Olson for “his At the Friends of Acadia annual meeting, his uncanny ability to persuade the FOA pivotal role in securing lasting protection in July, the Friends board of directors and Board of Directors to purchase state-of-the- for Maine’s special places.” In addition to staff presented Olson with the chairman’s art loppers, saws, clippers, and more than his achievements on behalf of Acadia, one-and-only Sweet Victory Award for “his NRCM cited Olson’s work with the outstanding leadership in national park Council and concerned citizens to ensure protection and preservation; his skills as a greater protections for the Allagash persuasive and passionate spokesman on Wilderness Waterway. Among other behalf of Acadia National Park before Congress, donors, volunteers, park neigh- bors, and often unsuspecting supporters; his tremendous success at raising a small nonprofit to national stature and accom- plishment.”

At the same meeting, Acadia National Peter Travers Park superintendent Sheridan Steele con- Superintendent Sheridan Steele (right) confers Honorary ferred Honorary Park Ranger status on Park Ranger status on Olson, July 22,with FOA chair Olson, citing “his outstanding leadership Dianna Emory looking on. and great success in support of Acadia enough T-shirts; his ever successful negoti- National Park and the Mission of the ations with Acadia National Park which National Park Service.” allowed us to walk behind Smokey the At the season-end lunch honoring Bear rather than the U.S. Army Mounted Friends’ volunteer crew leaders, Olson was Cavalry; and, finally, his clean air initia- feted by the leaders, who presented him tives, which meant we could breath freely

Beth Dimond, NRCM with Honorary Membership in the and actually see the spectators who were Natural Resources Council of Maine executive director Imprecision Drill Team. The Imprecision yelling ‘Thank you, Volunteers.’” Brownie Carson (left) and Board of Directors president Drill Team is one of the features of the Bar “Everyone has treated me wonderfully Lisa Pohlmann (right) present Life Time Achievement award to Olson, September 29. Harbor July 4th Parade, with volunteers over a decade of profoundly rewarding executing some mighty fancy footwork work at Friends of Acadia,” Olson said. efforts, he produced River of Broken with wheelbarrows, loppers, shovels, and “Thank you, all, for letting me be your Promises, a legal history of the waterway other trail tools. The leaders honored willing colleague.” As for the formal hon- “that has come to serve as the Bible for Olson “for his tireless efforts in keeping ors, “The lesson in all this is I should retire activists trying to ensure that this beautiful cars and trucks off the roads of Mt. Desert more often,” he quipped. ❧ Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 19 Nina and George Strawbridge Jr. Ildiko Butler In Gratitude Kim and Francis Wentworth Marilyn Calderwood Gail Clark Trail & Carriage Road Individual Underwriting Friends Tanny Clark Volunteer Crew Leaders Jill and Richard Blanchard Ruth Colket Bruce Blake Mr. and Mrs. W. Morgan Churchman Francie Comer Bucky and Maureen Brooks Ruth and Tristram Colket Malinda Crain George and Anna Buck, ex officio Verena and Roderick Cushman Lynn Daly Betsy Champlin Elaine and Bernhoff Dahl Kathryn Davis Rod Fox Donna and William Eacho Sydney Davis Mike Hays Dianna and Benjamin Emory Bambi de la Gueronniere Stephen and Yvonne Johnson Eileen and Paul Growald Linda Douglass Alan King Laura and Bernard Hamilton Donna Eacho Vesta Kowalski Allison and Edward Johnson IV Leslie Fogg Mark Munsell Lillie and Edward Johnson III Jane Foster Bob Sanderson Ann and Gilbert Kinney Wendy T. Foulke Julia Schloss Debby and Jim Lash Linda Levy Goldberg Dee and Howard Solomon Charles R. Merriman Helen Goodhue Al and Marilyn Wiberley Heather and George Mitchell Winkie Gummey Janneke Steton Neilson Laura Hamilton In-Kind Donations Susan and Stephen Paneyko Margaret Hamner Tom Blagden — photographs Gayle and Fergie Peters Muffie Hoche George DeWolfe — photographs Susanna Porter and Jamie Clark Allison Johnson Eaton Peabody — legal services Martie and Ed Samek Sheree Kent Preti, Flaherty, Beliveau, Pachios & Haley, Jane and Dennis Shubert Wilhelmina Kipp LLC — legal services Mary Ann and Mike Siklosi Bethany Savage Klyver Educators’ Collaborative — organizational The Comer Foundation Sydie Lansing planning services Linda and Dan Valentino Augusta Lorber K.A. McDonald Picture Framing — picture Diana J. Wister Adrienne Maxwell framing services Suzanne Folds McCullagh Bond Builders — carpentry work Administrative Committee Charlie Merriman Mt. Desert Spring Water — display crates Chairperson Heather Mitchell Christine Strawbridge Betsy Moore 2005 BENEFIT GALA Auction Items Meredith Moriarity Underwriting Sponsor Diana Hambleton and Liz Martinez Bill Morris Sotheby’s Sally Newhall Catalogue Nancy Nimick Corporate Underwriting Patrons Debby Lash Lisa Nitze BayView Financial Decorations Ulla Norris Lupine & Company Jean Lipkin and Julie Merck Susan Paneyko Dinner Jennifer Craig Richardson Corporate Underwriting Friends Lydia Kimball Ann R. Roberts Bar Harbor Bank & Trust Katie Roberts First National Bank of Bar Harbor Hostesses Barbara Robinson The Union Trust Company Phil Dennis and Lanie Lincoln Deborah Robinson Item Display Tara Rockefeller Individual Underwriting Sponsors Dianna Brochendorff Martie Samek Anonymous (2) Operations Cheryl Savage Charles Butt Gail Cook, Dianna Emory, and Ellen Shafer Julie Merck Story Litchfield Diana Davis Spencer Eleanor and John Sullivan Barb Steele Kate and Nicholas Vanoff FOA Staff Liaison Clare Stone Theresa Begley Nonie Sullivan Individual Underwriting Patrons Gala Committee Elizabeth Seherr-Thoss Barbara and Reginald Brack Ann Bass Cynthia Urfer Kathryn Davis Mary Lee Bayne Linda Valentino Elizabeth and Arthur Martinez Patricia Blake Bonnie Van Alen Mary Morgan Jill Blanchard Joannie Van der Grift Barbara and John Robinson Barbara Brack Kate Vanoff Anne Rockefeller Roberts Callie Brauer Susan Warren

20 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Ariane Wellin Penelope Harris Lynne Wheat Katrina Hart Diana Wister Jud Hartmann Christine Wolf Rich Hilsinger, WoodenBoat School Hinckley Company Auction Items Donors Dr. John Hoche Suzy Abuza, Indo-Chic Imports Eric Hopkins Acadia National Park Trails Crew The Inn on Isle au Haut Acadia Shops Philip M. Jelly Jr. Dr. Brian Allen, Addison Gallery of Jumby Bay Resort American Art Elizabeth Kehoe Anonymous Anne Kinney Asticou Inn Richard B. Klyver Atlantic Landscape Construction Tom Leddy Dean Barger Rosemary Levin Bath Works, Inc. Lanie Lincoln Benefit Gala Committee Jean and Ed Lipkin Blue Hill at Stone Barns Restaurant Carl Little A BOOKLOVER’S HAVEN Barbara and Reg Brack Valerie Louthan Open year-round Brown Applicance & Mattresses Lupine & Co. Monday-Saturday 9:30-5:30; Sunday 12:00-6:00 Website: www.portinastormbookstore.com Dianna Brochendorff K. A. MacDonald Picture Framing Main St. Rt 102 in Somesville, Brunschwig & Fils, Inc. Adrienne and John Maxwell Mount Desert, ME 04660 Sarah C. Butler Rocky Mann Studios 207 244-4114 • Toll Free: 800 694-4114 Email [email protected] Cadillac Mountain Sports Diana Roper McDowell Caneel Bay Resort Morris Yachts Chairman of the Board Furniture Co. Janneke Neilson Corrine Carbone Daria Pew Castle Hill Inn & Resort Jennifer Richardson Tanny Clark Michael Rindler Studios Jan Coates, Port In a Storm Bookstore Tara and Michael Rockefeller James Covington Romantic Room Edward Darling, Downeast Toyota Jerry Rose Kathryn Davis Bethany Savage, Goldsmith Main Street, Northeast harbor Phyllis Dennis Julia and Dick Schloss 276-4006 Ellen and Bob Shafer Neighborhood Road, Northeast Harbor Smathers & Branson Belts & Accessories 276-4005 Francis Smith William Smith, WWS Woodworks ROSECLIFF COTTAGES Elizabeth Seherr-Thoss Sotheby’s Shore Acres Road Lynne Beverly-Staggs Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 Stark Carpet 207-288-9223 Christine Strawbridge www.rosecliffcottages.com Nina Strawbridge Merilyn and Jim Stephens Oceanfront cottages with a pebble beach and wonder sunsets. Dianna and Benjamin Emory Summer Hill Peggy Engel Judy Taylor “Where the roses come to watch the sea” Richard Estes Telluride Helitrax Leslie and Joseph Fogg Tiffany & Company Emily Fuchs Pat Toogood Donna Gann Charles R. Tyson Jr. Rob Gardiner U. S. Bells Foundry Granville Rental & Party Rental Unique One Michael H. Graves Antiques Carol and Rolf van Schaik Julie Gray, LTD Kate and Nicholas Vanoff Linda Greenlaw Vaughan Designs Martha Greenlaw Susan Warren WINE & CHEESE Eileen and Paul Growald Ann and John Weston 244-3317 Lisa Hall Diana Wister Margaret and Clay Hamner Dick Wolf 353 Main Street, Southwest Harbor, Maine 04679

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 21 eral budget contains an increase for national Updates park operations overall, the extra funding is not seen at the local park level because of Friends President Testifies Congressionally mandated salary increases, Before Congressional agency assessments, emergency expenditures, Subcommittee and security during terrorism alerts. Mr. Olson described how Acadia National On August 24, 2005, Friends of Acadia Park has dealt with some of these government President Ken Olson testified before the funding shortages — by reducing the num- House Government Reform Subcommittee on ber of seasonal employees, by leaving eleven Criminal Justice, Drug Policy, and Human permanent positions unfilled, and by cutting Resources. The hearing at Faneuil Hall in back on maintenance (e.g., closing nine of Boston was called to highlight key issues fac- twelve restrooms over the winter season). ing the National Park System, specifically how He stressed that Friends’ contributions to parks are dealing with funding shortfalls, Acadia are intended to add to a “margin of security issues, and other management needs. excellence” in national park management — Mr. Olson was invited to testify by Rep. Mark to add value to park programs rather than Alan Spears, National Parks Conservation Association Friends of Acadia staff Stephanie Clement and Ken Olson join audience members and the honorable Roger Kennedy, Chairman of the National Council of National Parks Conservation Association and former Director of the National Park Service, at the August 24th oversight hearing on key issues facing the National Park Service. The hearing was called by Congressman Mark Souder, Chair of the House Subcommittee on Criminal Justice, Drug Policy, and Human Resources.

Souder (R-IN), the Chair of the Sub- replace normal park functions that should be committee, who asked him to speak about funded by Congress. the effects of national park budgets on private Mr. Olson was joined on the witness stand philanthropy. by Roger Kennedy, former Director of the Park Mr. Olson’s testimony highlighted the Service and National Council Chairman of the strength of the relationship between Friends of National Parks Conservation Association, an Acadia and Acadia National Park. Friends holds organization that has led the Americans for $16 million in endowments for the trails, car- National Park coalition which has drawn riage roads, and other programs and has grant- attention to park funding issues. Marilyn ed $5.1 million to Acadia since 1995. Mr. Fenollosa of the National Trust for Historic Olson warned, however, “Charities must never Preservation and Lt. John McCauley, Museum subsidize government operating losses.” He Curator for the Ancient and Honorable pointed out that even though the FY 2006 fed- Artillery Company of Massachusetts, also pro- 22 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal vided testimony. The National Park Service MDOT acting as their agent, will be the President Ken Olson to discuss the concept was represented by Bob McIntosh, Associate lead agency in meeting federal planning of the multi-media performance. Olson was Regional Director for Planning and requirements and hiring consultants to confident that “First Light would be a superb Partnerships for the Northeast Region, and prepare the site development plan and interpretation of the sounds and sights of Michael Creasey, Lowell National Historical implement the public involvement Acadia the Beautiful — a real celebration of Park Superintendent. process. The National Park Service, Acadia and all those who work hard to pro- The hearing in Boston is one of a series Federal Highways Administration, Maine tect it.” More than 250 members and music that Rep. Souder planned, focusing on issues Office of Tourism, Friends of Acadia, Town lovers joined Friends for the weekend per- facing national parks across the country. of Trenton, and Downeast Transportation formances. Earlier in the summer, hearings were held in will be cooperating agencies and/or part- First Light: An Oratorio was made possible Washington, D.C. and Gettysburg, PA. Upon ners in the planning process. by Bar Harbor Bank & Trust and island music completion of all the hearings, a report com- For more information about the Crippens and art sponsors. piling the testimony will be published. Creek Intermodal Transportation Center Meanwhile, Friends of Acadia will continue project, contact Stephanie Clement at (207) to work with the Acadia Advocacy Network 288-3340 or [email protected]. and the Maine Congressional delegation, Celebrating Acadia’s Founders which has been very supportive of the park, On Saturday, August 13th, the public gath- to secure additional funding for Acadia’s ered at the Bar Harbor Village Green to cel- operations. Premiere Performance ebrate the founders of Acadia National Park. Friends of Acadia hosted the world pre- Friends of Acadia President Ken Olson mière of First Light: An Oratorio at St. Saviour’s emceed the event to honor George B. Dorr, Church in Bar Harbor on August 27 and 28. Crippens Creek Environmental Charles W. Eliot, John D. Rockefeller, and Assessment Commences First Light, a multi-media performance, was composed by the late Sally Speare Lutyens others who worked tirelessly to purchase or Earlier this summer, field biologists from and inspired by the images of Tom Blagden the Maine Department of Transportation Jr. and the words of Charles R. Tyson Jr. in (MDOT) initiated a preliminary environ- the book, First Light: Acadia National Park and mental assessment of the land proposed for Maine’s Mount Desert Island. the Crippens Creek Intermodal Trans- Sally Lutyens, an accomplished musician portation Center. Friends of Acadia holds a and former Manset resident, adapted her orig- three-year option on a 369-acre parcel in inal score from the book’s text. The string Trenton that has been identified by MDOT ensemble and chorale, featuring soprano as the preferred location for the intermodal Sarah St. Denis, was accompanied by a slide center. The center will help reduce private show of Tom Blagden images filling the width automobile traffic by providing parking for of the church sanctuary. Otis Sawtelle Collection ANP Willliam commuters and day visitors to the park. The Planning and production of First Light George B. Dorr on the Beachcroft Path. Island Explorer will also operate from the began last winter when three talented musi- center, park entrance passes will be sold, and cians — Composer Sally Lutyens, Producer secure donations of land that became Acadia regional tourism and park information will Lee Patterson, and Music Director Tom National Park. August 13th marked the be available. Wallace — met with Friends of Acadia anniversary of the first gathering of the peo- MDOT biologists, Richard Bostwick, Jerry ple who formed the Hancock County Therrien, and John Perry traversed the Trustees of Public Reservations, the organi- Crippens Creek site with FOA conservation zation primarily responsible for the found- director Stephanie Clement, looking for wet ing of Acadia National Park. areas, taking soil samples, and documenting Other speakers at the celebratory event plant, bird, mammal, and amphibian species. included State Senator Dennis Damon, State Due to heavy rains at that time, several wet areas were observed that were not on the wet- Representative Ted Koffman, George Dorr land inventory maps. Two beaver dams were biographer Dr. Ron Epp, Acadia also found. The environmental assessment Superintendent Sheridan Steele, Beatrix revealed no plant or animal species of con- Farrand Society President Patrick Chassé, cern, although evidence of large and small Hancock County Trustees of Public mammals was seen, and one pink lady’s-slip- Reservations President Stephen Shea, per (Cypripedium acaule) was found. More in- Woodlawn Museum Executive Director depth analysis and field mapping will be Joshua Torrance, and Carriages-in-the-Park needed to carefully demarcate wet areas proprietor Ed Winterberg. Proclamations where development should be avoided. from Governor John E. Baldacci and the Speare family photo Speare The Federal Transit Administration, with Sally Speare Lutyens Maine legislature were followed by a cake and Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 23 lemonade reception. Little would have For more information and to view sched- editorial essay in support of the legislation. seemed out of character to the founders had ules, visit www.exploreacadia.com. Be sure to send Friends of Acadia a copy of they joined the festivities on the green. your letters. To join the Acadia Advocacy Network, send an e-mail to [email protected] Advocacy Corner with the words, “Subscribe Advocacy The Bicycle Express The Acadia National Park Improvement Act Network” in the subject line of the message. For the first time this summer, bicyclists of 2005 (S. 1154 in the Senate and H.R. 2692 You will receive periodic announcements of had another option for returning to Bar in the House) was introduced by Senator events or meetings to highlight important Harbor after feasting on popovers at the Susan Collins and Representative Michael issues, opportunities to weigh in with the Jordan Pond House. In addition to regular Michaud on Thursday, May 26, 2005. Senator Maine Congressional delegation, or occasions Island Explorer service, Downeast Trans- Olympia Snowe and Congressman Tom Allen to comment on park publications. portation initiated a bike shuttle featuring co-sponsored. The bill accomplishes three non-stop trips between Bar Harbor and important legislative needs for the park: Jordan Pond through the end of August. 1. It extends the life of the Acadia National Two Trails Come Back Park Advisory Commission, a citizen Acadia National Park has two “new” addi- body appointed by local towns, the tions to the more than 130 miles of hiking Governor, and the Secretary of the trails crisscrossing the park. The Penob- Interior, that consults with the National scot Mountain Trail and Sargent East Cliffs Park Service on important management Trail have undergone significant reconstruc- issues; tion and are back on trail maps, thanks to a model public-private project begun in 2000. 2. It authorizes Congress to appropriate The projects were made possible by the additional funding for land acquisition at Acadia Trails Forever partnership between Acadia; and, Acadia National Park and Friends of Acadia. 3. It authorizes the National Park Service to This $13-million dollar initiative is designed assist with design, construction, and to restore and maintain Acadia’s historic trail operation of the Crippens Creek inter- system, including reconstructing and bring- modal transportation center planned for ing back into the trail system nearly 10 miles Trenton. of abandoned trails. Acadia Trails Forever is funded through private donations and park The Senate Committee on Energy and entry fees. And it’s working. Natural Resources reported to the full Senate The Island Explorer Bicycle Express. Friends members and staff joined the park with few amendments to the bill. The House to celebrate the re-opening of the two trails The vans and bike trailers that comprised the Subcommittee on National Parks has not with a dedication and hike of the Penobscot shuttle were purchased with National Park yet considered the bill. Friends of Acadia sup- Mountain Trail on Tuesday, August 2. Service funds and operated under L.L. Bean’s ports this bill because it is necessary for The southern section of the Penobscot generous $1 million grant to Friends of Acadia’s long-term traffic management efforts, Mountain Trail first appeared on 1896 trail Acadia for the Island Explorer. land protection initiatives, and the continu- maps, but has been off the maps for more The new bike trailers were planned to alle- ation of the Acadia National Park Advisory than 50 years. The trail begins at the crest of viate pressure on the Island Explorer buses Commission, which has been a valuable Penobscot’s southern cliffs, intersecting the to accommodate all cyclists. The buses carry link between gateway communities and park Spring Trail (renamed last year), and connects four bicycles at a time, but the bike trailers managers. the Penobscot ridge with the Asticou Trail to carry up to 16 bicycles. The vans and trail- If you are interested in becoming more the south. The route offers spectacular views ers left the Jordan Pond House on hourly actively involved in Acadia National Park pol- of Jordan Pond, Little Long Pond, and the intervals in between bus departures. Paul icy issues, Friends encourages you to join the island-dotted ocean from its open ledges. The Murphy, General Manager of Downeast Acadia Advocacy Network and to express “new” Penobscot Mountain Trail stretches 2.2 Transportation was more than pleased with support for the Acadia National Park miles from the granite summit of Penobscot the results. “The trailers were a bigger suc- Improvement Act of 2005. To read the full Mountain to the Asticou Trail. cess than we had expected,” he said at the text of this essential legislation, go to The other trail, most lately known as part end of the season. “We carried more than http://thomas.loc.gov and type “S. 1154” or of the Jordan Cliffs Trail, to be welcomed back 5,000 bicycles on the trailers. The buses still “H.R. 2692” into the “Search Bill Text” box. into the system ascends the summit of Sargent carried a lot of bikes, but the expanded sys- Please e-mail, call, or fax the Maine Mountain from the Deer Brook Trail. It was tem worked just the way we wanted thanks Congressional delegation to thank them for reopened last fall after being closed to hikers to L.L. Bean, Friends of Acadia, and Acadia sponsoring this important bill. Also, consid- since 1996 because of extreme erosion and National Park.” er writing a letter to the editor or an opinion unsafe conditions. Upon reopening, the trail

24 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal and Don Beal, another longtime ANP employee and park expert, joined the guests at the Jordan Pond House for a delicious family style meal in the private dining room. The event was the inaugural celebration of the George B. Dorr Society of Friends of Acadia. The afternoon was a small way for Friends of Acadia to show its appreciation to the Dorr Society members and other special friends. The George B. Dorr Society was established this year to recognize those members and friends who have made future provisions for Friends of Acadia in their estate plans. The Society honors George Bucknam Dorr, a gen- tleman, scholar, and lover of nature whose dedication to preserving Mount Desert Island helped create Acadia National Park. The 2006 Dorr Society luncheon is planned for September 2006. To learn more about including Friends of Acadia in your estate plans, please contact Lisa Horsch at 207-288-3340 or [email protected].❧ Acadia National Park staff and Friends of Acadia members and staff on the way up to the restored Penobscot Mtn. Trail. was signed with its historic name: Sargent East Cliffs. Thanks to the dedication and hard work of park staff and volunteers, and the generosity of Friends of Acadia donors, visitors have more opportunities to explore the mountains surrounding Jordan Pond and to once again experience the scenic wonders of Acadia National Park along routes enjoyed by rusti- cators a half-century ago.

An Afternoon in the Park with Merle When the small group of guests arrived at Wildwood Stables on the foggy morning of October 4, they didn’t have any idea of the treat Friends of Acadia had in store for them. Not long after we loaded our carriage and began our tour of Acadia’s carriage roads, the fog burned off and we had our first glimpse of the park’s fall colors. The true reward from the day wasn’t the beautiful fall foliage but our knowledgeable guide, Merle Cousins, Carriage Road Foreman. Merle, a thirty-plus year veteran of Acadia National Park, shared the history, engineer- ing, and future of the carriage roads as we traveled the shores of Bubble Pond, Eagle Lake, and Jordan Pond. After the ride, Merle Merle Cousins leads guests past the tumbledown on Penobscot Mountain.

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 25 And finally on the transience of love: Not Just Another Book Review ...I love... the real, Pretty Video truant world opening before it grows dense with light and the need for endings, Schoodic: Rhythm and Words setting free Where Sea Meets Land, that inkling some lasting love might come The Singers I Prefer: Poems to me produced by by Christian Barter, “Can You” Accompany, Concord, NH, CavanKerry Press Ltd, Ultimately, the only way to fully appreci- www.aboutschoodic.com. Fort Lee, NJ, 2005. ate the beautiful, contemplative quality of 1 hour, $17.95, DVD or VHS. 87 pp, $14, paperback. Chris Barter’s work is to read it. Many visitors and even some local residents Chris Barter is a student of music and a — Phil Levin, Poetry Editor do not realize that Acadia National Park’s bor- trail crew supervisor in Bar Harbor. ders extend beyond the shores of Mount Fortunately for us he is also a gifted poet. Desert Island. In addition to MDI and Isle This beautiful volume confronts a number au Haut, Acadia National Park is located on of serious questions with a great simplicity of the beautiful Schoodic Peninsula. Bordering the park on the peninsula lay language and penetrating honesty, couched Enduring Style in his quietly discursive and contemplative the towns of Gouldsboro, Prospect Harbor, rhythms. Two of his poems have appeared Corea, and Winter Harbor. Schoodic: Where Maine Cottages: in the Friends of Acadia Journal, one of them Sea Meets Land is an excellent introduction as Second Prize winner of the FOA 1998 Fred L. Savage and the to these unique communities full of hard- working residents and interesting characters. Poetry Contest judged by Kate Barnes, Architecture of Maine’s then Poet Laureate. The video takes you on a tour of the area This is poetry largely devoid of images and Mount Desert including visits with local fishermen, boat aphoristic statements. Instead it gives us the by John M. Bryan, builders, farmers, business owners, and great storytellers. poet’s dialogues with himself, seldom arriv- photographs by ing at definitive conclusions. This, however, is not just another pretty Some of his deepest insights spring from Richard Cheek, video about the coast of Maine. Schoodic: his musical background: Princeton Architectural Press, New York, Where Sea Meets Land touches on pressing issues for the area — the lack of affordable 2005. 301 pp, $45, hardcover. What I love about Beethoven is what labor affecting blueberry farmers, the I so often hate about myself: resilience of the Mainers and their ability to he never finishes anything. The strain John Bryan, a noted architectural histori- find work and then work hard to support that labors cadence after cadence toward an and professor of art history at the their families and community, and the capac- resolution, wresting its course away University of South Carolina has compiled a ity to co-exist within a community repre- from the pestering piano, arrives stunning visual history of the many eclectic senting the spectrum of wealth, both ends only after everything is so changed buildings of the architect Fred L. Savage. of the spectrum appreciating that one cannot that where it meant to go is no longer Savage’s work influenced both residential and live well without the other. possible, is there only as a memory commercial architecture for decades on One of the most enjoyable parts of the of where we might have rested.... Mount Desert Island, and remains an influ- video is learning about the real people of ence today. With stunning photographs and Schoodic and hearing some of their stories. “On a Beethoven Cello Sonata” historic text, the reader is taken on a jour- One favorite is a story told by local charac- ney of classic styles that range from “simple” ter Larry Smith — so interesting it inspired structures, like the Reading Room and the the song used to close the video. Listening The gift of speaking in paradox so as to Smoking Cabin, to magnificent cottages, like carefully to “The Door is Open” to hear the expose opposite facets simultaneously: Treetops and Rosserne. Also included are whole story. Savage’s later commercial works, including A bonus to the cultural introduction to the ...still bright as any city the Bar Harbor High School (now the Bar area is the spectacular imagery. From the seen from a hill Harbor Town Office), the Bar Harbor Fire intriguing casting at U.S. Bells to the crash- where cities seem to be Department (in continuous use since 1911), ing waves on the shores of Schoodic, you will and the C. L. Morang Store. Maine Cottages certainly enjoy the visual vacation. Whether the things we planned to is not only a study of architecture but a study a native or from away, Schoodic: Where Sea build of the sociology and history of Mount Desert Meets Land is a must-see introduction to this “There Are No Stars Tonight but Island communities over the past 100 years. Downeast community. Those of Memory” — Rose Doherty — Sugar Balfor

26 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal Friends of Schoodic

FRIENDS IN THE GATEHOUSE

wo years ago, Rosemary and I joined Sometimes, such as on a cool, foggy Friends of Schoodic (FOS) and vol- Tuesday in mid-September, a shift in the Tunteered to work in “the Gatehouse.” Gatehouse can be very relaxed. But other The small white building from which Navy times, such as warm, sunny Saturdays in July security personnel checked IDs and con- and August, shifts in the Gatehouse can be a trolled access, the Gatehouse was the first line bit crazy, with a continuous stream of visitors of security at the former navy base on the coming and going. Schoodic Peninsula. When the Navy depart- While there are common, frequently asked ed, the National Park Service assumed questions — Where is the bathroom? When responsibility for the base and the Gatehouse. is high tide? Will the sun come out? What is happening with the base? Where can I see a moose? — many visitors seek in-depth information about the flora, fauna, geology, or history of Schoodic. Past base employees visit the Gatehouse wanting to find out what has changed now that the base is the campus of the Schoodic Education and Research Center (SERC). Guests taking advantage of the Island Explorer use the Gatehouse as a transfer

point, getting off to walk to Schoodic Point Garry Levin to watch the waves before walking back to FOS Volunteer John Gregory of Old Town works the desk at the Gatehouse. reboard the Explorer. Bicyclists like to stop at the Gatehouse because it is about halfway are eager to promote the SERC, which is rap- between the park entrance and exit. idly becoming a state-of-the-art facility to Many of the people stopping at the advance science and learning through inno- Gatehouse come from small villages in Maine, vative partnerships that promote the under- while others visit from across the United standing, protection, and conservation of States, Canada, and the Americas. At the natural and cultural resources. Gatehouse, we have hosted guests from Most importantly, we love exchanging sto- Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia. ries and anecdotes with Gatehouse guests. Regardless of why they stop or where they We laugh. We listen. We share. We connect. are from, the visitors are the reason Gatehouse Working at the Gatehouse is just one of duty is rewarding. Rosemary and I thoroughly many activities for Friends of Schoodic vol- enjoy the opportunity to interact with them. unteers, all of whom have an extraordinary We get a thrill out of sharing our knowledge level of energy and commitment. FOS wel- Garry Levin of the Schoodic Peninsula, providing inter- comes new participants, helpers, ideas, and The Schoodic Gatehouse. pretation, history, answers, and perspective. suggestions. We meet at 7 p.m. on the sec- Working with park rangers Tom Mayer, We brag about Schoodic’s natural beauty; its ond Wednesday of each month on the SERC Friends of Schoodic’s first chairperson, and dramatic shoreline, magnificent forests, and campus. To find out more about Friends, visit his wife, Jeanie Wilson, developed a plan to amazing views. We passionately share infor- us on the web at www.friendsofschoodic.org, operate the Gatehouse as an information cen- mation about the eagles nesting on Rolling or contact us at P.O. Box 194, Prospect ter for The Schoodic District of Acadia Island, the University of Maine professor Harbor, Maine 04609. We invite you to join National Park. Demonstrating exceptional studying reproduction of fucoid algae, the us — our only requirement is love for Acadia initiative, energy, and enthusiasm, Tom and graduate student releasing oranges into the National Park and a special passion for the Jeanie enlisted volunteers, coordinated sched- ocean to study tidal flow, the students and undeveloped splendor that is Schoodic. ❧ ules, and guided the project to fruition. Now teachers getting hands-on field experience in its third year, the Gatehouse is anchored through the Schoodic Education Adventure — Garry Levin by a cadre of experienced volunteers, aug- (SEA) program, the scientists presenting mented by new FOS members who eagerly Resource Acadia Seminars, and the Artists- GARRY LEVIN is vice-chairman of Friends of sign up to participate. in-Residence sharing their creative vision. We Schoodic, a committee of Friends of Acadia.

Friends of Acadia Journal Fall 2005 27 Chairman’s Letter

TRANSITIONS

he last of summer kissed the sea with shafts of sunshine as we scrambled Talong Acadia’s craggy and rugged Isle au Haut trails. Downy thistle heads blew into the breeze, the last of the beach peas crunched under foot and dozens of dragon- flies danced their final waltz. It was a time of transitions, not only at Isle au Haut but also at Friends of Acadia. With many significant projects behind us, some exciting ones underway, and more on the horizon, we are preparing to say farewell to our President and CEO, Ken Olson. As he moves into the next chap- ter of his life, Ken leaves much of himself with us through all that he has accomplished at FOA. We wish him happy times and many

future life successes. Peter Travers Friends of Acadia president Ken Olson and chairman Dianna Emory talk with members and volunteers at FOA’s annual meeting in July. in the Friends movement, a committed group members, donors, and volunteers. We hope “With many significant proj- of volunteers, critical projects, a solid donor that you will assist with this task by pur- ects behind us, some exciting base, and one of the most spectacular spots chasing memberships for your family mem- ones underway, and more on to live in the world will greet our next leader. bers and younger friends. In doing so, you This transition focuses my thoughts on are giving them the chance to learn more the horizon, we are preparing each of our temporary roles as stewards of about this incredible place and how to give to say farewell to our President Acadia National Park. At FOA we are cur- back to Acadia National Park through Friends rently intent on bringing in the next genera- of Acadia. and CEO, Ken Olson.” tion of leaders to whom this stewardship role With thanks for your ever-present enthu- will fall. Through additions to our board, Gala siasm and for your assistance with transitions, Committee, and volunteer corps, we are Thanks in part to Ken we have much to reaching out to the “next generations.” We offer a new President. An excellent staff, a have also created the Future Leaders first-rate organization that is a national leader Committee to help to recruit a new group of — Dianna K. Emory Give a great holiday gift and introduce someone you care about to Acadia with a gift membership to Friends of Acadia. *Gift package includes: • The Rusticator’s Journal, a lovely book of • A Friends of Acadia bookmark essays and photographs of Mount Desert • The satisfaction of knowing that Island and Acadia National Park membership in Friends of Acadia helps to • A one-year subscription to the preserve the remarkable beauty of Acadia Friends of Acadia Journal National Park • A Friends of Acadia window decal

Please send a special $40 gift package to: Message you would like on the card: Name Phone ______Address City, State & Zip Code ______

All money contributed to Friends of Acadia will be used to preserve and protect the outstanding natural beauty, ecological vitality, and cultural distinctiveness of Acadia National Park and the surrounding communities. All gifts are tax deductible. Friends of Acadia P.O. Box 45 Bar Harbor, ME 04609 www.friendsofacadia.org 207-288-3340 800-625-0321

28 Fall 2005 Friends of Acadia Journal FRIENDS OF ACADIA OPERATING PHILOSOPHY To accomplish our mission, 1. We advocate. We advance park interests before Congress and the Maine Legislature, within the National Park Service and other federal, state or local bodies, and among the general public. 2. We make grants. We raise private funds for select capital projects in Acadia and for its enlightened stewardship, creating sustainable revenues through endowments where appropriate. We strive to supplement federal funds and services, not replace them. 3. We nullify threats. We mobilize people and forge nonprofit alliances to neutralize threats to park and community resources. 4. We promote excellent management. We speak for responsible users in the continual betterment of park operations. 5. We operate independently. We function as a free-standing nonprofit, supportive of the park but independent from it. We reserve the right to differ respectfully. 6. We seek a broad membership. We seek to maximize the number of park defenders, stewards, and donors. We encourage every visitor to join Friends of Acadia as a means of giving something back to the park for the privilege of experiencing it. 7. We enhance communities. We promote conservation in border communities through programs and grants that enhance their natural character and complement park values. 8. We support volunteerism. We supply a corps of motivated volunteers to meet designated park needs, including the upkeep of footpaths and carriage roads. 9. We produce tangible results. We achieve measurable results from programs and funds expended. 10. We leverage donated funds. We operate on a sound financial basis, leveraging member dues and other gifts to bring the highest conservation return per donated dollar. Dorothy Kerper Monnelly Dorothy Ship Harbor VISION Friends of Acadia seeks an Acadia National Park that is the best funded, best managed, and best maintained national park for its size and volume of use. Mount Desert Island is distinguished by its intact natural character and the quality of village life. The air is clean, the water pure. Low-emissions public transit, funded primarily by park entry fees, contributes to conserving Acadia’s special qualities. Park visitation conforms to sensible carrying capacities. People feel a powerful reverence for their great national park and its host island. They want to keep this place beautiful for all generations. They help protect its outstanding natural, cultural, and economic attributes by supporting Friends of Acadia. PRST STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID LEWISTON, MAINE PERMIT #82

Friends of Acadia Tom Blagden Tom Champlain, Dorr, and Cadillac Mountains

Mission The mission of Friends of Acadia is to preserve and protect the outstanding natural beauty, ecological vitality, and cultural distinctiveness of Acadia National Park and the surrounding communities, and thereby to ensure a high quality experience for visitors and residents.

Friends of Acadia 43 Cottage Street PO Box 45 Bar Harbor, Maine 04609 207 288-3340 1 800 625-0321