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THE : : 02 : 09 : 2008 THE : SPIRIT : ISSUE DESkToP FacToRy : mUSIc anD mIcRocHIPS : SmEllIng colUmnS : IllUSIonaRy knITS : glycaEmIc InDEx blUES : heraldic FoRmaTIonS : mElboURnE : nEw DElHI : STockHolm : ExPERImEnTal SPIRIT : goTH couture : aFTERlIFE oF TREES : nEw bRUTalISm : bUbblE wRaP gEnERaTIon : SHEIkH majED al-SabaH : VIlla moDa : conSTRUcTIVE conTRoVERSy : cRoSS-cUltural PRojEcTS : gEnERaTIVE DESIgn :4 gEnomE jEwEllERy : cURVES RE:bRanDED : SUnSHInE HUES : nEw TyRolEanS : conTEmPoRaRy kITScH : SEmI-IRonIc anTlERS : PERFEkTES wocHEnEnDE : aPPoInTmEnT VInyl : SEamlESS SToRIES : THE nakED PoUnD : PUblISHED QUaRTERLY BY THE FUTURE laboRaToRy www.THEFUTURElaboRaToRy.com THE : MASTHEAD : 02 : 03 THE : EDITOR’S LETTER : 02 : 03 THE question : The Future Laboratory is one of Studio manager : Andrew Graham So, it seems that the threatening recession is just about ready to What do you believe in? Europe’s leading trend, brand and [email protected] futures consultancies. Through Love after love drop. But, rather than succumbing to a life full of sacrifice and loss, bespoke client reports, quarterly Finance manager : Sian Welsh we’re noting the emergence of a new attitude of strength, defiance Editorial director : Martin Raymond insight reports, and LS:N, the [email protected] [email protected] Future Laboratory’s consumer insight and spirit. Whatever I’m told Fairies network, we connect over 300 clients with all aspects of culture and Finance team : Andy Stewart Creative director : Chris Sanderson Throughout this issue, you will notice a strong spirit of collaboration consumer change. LS:N hunts down [email protected] [email protected] the latest and most inspirational Myself and experimentation, as demonstrated by our Melbourne and New World peace ideas in design, retail, technology Project co-ordinator : Abigail Grimes Delhi city boxes, and by THE studio, where we put the spotlight Editor : Gwyneth Holland and culture. [email protected] [email protected] on KithKin, a multi-disciplinary group of artists and designers who thefuturelaboratory.com Determining your own future The number 8 assemble for ad-hoc creative projects such as our exclusive Trend lifesignsnetwork.net Sub-editor : Astella Saw Design editor : Caroline Till Generator (downloadable from lifesignsnetwork.net). [email protected] [email protected] Travelling Lime green Strategy & insight director : Tom Savigar Designer manager : Jodie Friend [email protected] [email protected] The Editor’s Letter Contributors : Open-mindedness Exfoliating George Collings (Social + Business) Strategy & insight director : Designer : Hannah Baxter [email protected] Timo Veikkola [email protected] The pope [email protected] Tomorrow Spirit can also be about the will to survive, as Cornish designer/maker Curiosity Sophie Ekwe-Bell (Photography) LifeSigns network manager : Max Lamb shows with his new project, My Grandfather’s Tree. [email protected] Head of trends : Kate Franklin Martin Farrington Lamb is giving the tree a new lease of life by making it into a series A bottomless glass [email protected] [email protected] Peace and quiet Little Lebowski Urban Achievers of objects that, when joined together, re-create the shape of the tree. Ravi Khanna (Youth) [email protected] Senior trends analyst : Vicky Langdon Sales manager : James Brooke Karma [email protected] [email protected] Our Spirit issue is also about rule-breaking and ground-breaking, as Miracles Destiny Jasmine Labeau (Architecture) we explore in ‘The Naked Pound’, which charts the rise of the nudist [email protected] Interns : Hannah De Vere White market; the afternoon delights of ‘Decadence before Dark’; and the Google Allison Weldon growth of generative design, where algorithms – not designers – Miriam Rayman (Technology + China) create mind-blowing forms. [email protected] The one 4 Max Reyner (Fashion + Nudity) As ever, the issue is brimming with new ideas, products and names: [email protected] watch out for microchip noiseniks Loud Objects, knitwear innovator Richard Dawkins Siri Johansen and artist Tim Philips, as well as the rise of New Jacob Strand (Design) Brutalism and a cultural revolution in the Middle East. [email protected] Wood Gwyneth Holland Marketing & Production : Emma Baines Editor [email protected] Fate Design : MadeThought Illustrator : Vicki Fong Contact : [email protected] The : Magazine Studio 2, 181 Cannon Street Road London, E1 2LX THE COLOUR : PAntonE 5205C United Kingdom This changeable deep mauvE Typifies the nEw gEnderless palettes. Neither Overtly masculinE nor feminInE, the tonE’S adaptability is essential as design moves towards A feminised Equality. Its greyed-Off tones Intensify deep shades, or illuminate neutrals when used In apparel, Interiors or graphics. Gracious In combInation with A palette Of tonal greyS, yet warm AnD Inviting when contrasted with buttercup yellow AnD AqUAMARInE. THE : THE OnE : 04 : 05 THE : THE OnE : 04 : 05 but the Desktop Factory 3D printer design, rather than the metallic lump The Project : ‘The internet is a huge inspiration in my The Brand : Editions de measures just 25x20x20 inches, and of parking nightmares most people work,’ says Philips. ‘It’s a place where we The One costs $4,995. remember it for. Catwalk Genius can jump between the holy and the Parfums Frederic Malle occult in the click of a mouse button.’ ‘It’s a fun idea,’ said Martin Watmough, Cars: Freedom, Style, Sex, Power, Adopt-a-designer is a new crowd-funded Philips’ sculptures are a 3-dimensional Connoisseur fragrance brand Editions The things we can’t business development manager of Motion, Colour, Everything is initiative by Catwalk Genius, which representation of this idea, where craft de Parfums Frederic Malle is about to live without… RapidForm at the Royal College of Art published by Conran Octopus in enables the public to invest in a and corporation, the precious and the emerge from its ‘best-kept-secret’ status in London, ‘it signifies the way the October 2008. designer’s collection, so that the ephemeral sit side by side. Already with a new fragrance and a new industry is heading.’ garments can be made. Each designer attracting interest from major galleries, boutique. needs 5,000 supporters paying €14 each Phillips is definitely a talent worth As Watmough points out, the problem to hit the adoption target of €70,000. watching out for. Malle works like a publisher of The Studio : KithKin with 3D printing isn’t the size or price of When the designer hits the target, they fragrances, commissioning the world’s the printers, but a lack of knowledge will be given six months to design a new greatest perfumers to create singular, KithKin are a group of upstarts who concerning the process. ‘You can’t collection, using the €70,000 funded by luxurious fragrances using the finest graduated from Central St Martins manufacture anything on digital the supporters. and most extraordinary ingredients. School of Art and Design just over a manufacturing technology unless you The new fragrance, Dans Tes Bras (In year ago. The creative co-operation was have 3D design [software],’ said Once the collection is ready, each of the Your Arms) was created by Maurice formed as a platform to showcase their Watmough, and at the moment this isn’t supporters will get an exclusive, ‘limited Roucel, creator of Malle’s Musc own work and the work of budding readily available. edition’ design from the adopted Ravageur (as well as Gucci Envy and designers. The name KithKin means designer as a reward for their support. Guerlain Insolence). Malle describes the friends and family and explains the However, 3D software packages and Profits are then divided, with 30% going new fragrance (to be launched in ethos of the studio. printing are becoming more widespread, to the designer, 30% to the facilitators, September) as ‘intimate’, thanks to its as companies make them more user- and 30% to the supporters. The base of cashmeran and patchouli, The studio has numerous successful friendly. ‘Home 3D printing realistically remaining 10% is set aside for an sweetened with heliotrope, together exhibitions behind it in the UK and is going to happen’, said Watmough, affiliate programme. with powdery tones of violet and abroad, including ‘Feed My Inspiration’, but he believes it could be some years jasmine, intended to evoke the smell of a window installation in London’s away yet. a lover’s skin. Shoreditch. A dot matrix printer was directly linked to the KithKin website Meanwhile, Editions de Parfums which printed email messages in real The Redesign : Colette, Paris Frederic Malle is also opening its first time, ranging from spam to real-life London store in September, with a concession in Liberty, London. The confessions. KithKin has also shown Uber-cool concept store Colette had a at the Tokyo and Milan Design weeks. eclectic space combines iconic Mies van busy summer: a pop up store in New der Rohe furniture and homely touches In September, KithKin will be curating York and a ‘superette’ parked in front of a window at Selfridges for seven with the high-tech aspects of fragrance 213 rue Saint Honoré selling exclusive such as a refrigerated cabinet to keep weeks, over London Fashion and Design pieces to