Volume 25 Article 7 Number 2 The Iowa Homemaker vol.25, no.2

1945 Women Devise Madeline Morrison Iowa State College

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Recommended Citation Morrison, Madeline (1945) "Women Devise Costume Jewelry," The Iowa Homemaker: Vol. 25 : No. 2 , Article 7. Available at: http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/homemaker/vol25/iss2/7

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Publications at Iowa State University Digital Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in The oI wa Homemaker by an authorized editor of Iowa State University Digital Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Modern jewelry construction presents a challenge to student designers) reports Madeline Morris on

ESIGNING and making original jewelry is the dent made some from coils of narrow metal and balls D project of home economics students who create creating an open design. The students also have added their own smart accessories in a jewelry course taught other metals including copper, to the commercial hair by Professor Mabel Fisher of the Department of Ap­ clasps and made simple units on the plain bars. plied Art. The course is required of all art majors Rings can be constructed in different ways. A piece but may be elected by other students who have taken of metal may be added to a plain band, making a prerequisite art courses. fairly low ring or the rings can be built up in the Metals used for the jewelry include , copper form of a cube to give a solid appearance. A design and . BTight, hard are gaining importance in a ring can be added to the basic shape or can be as settings for rings and clips. Pewter, an alloy of tin, achieved through construction. is a soft malleable metal and is used in the first pieces Stones set in the jewelry are inexpensive, showing constructed. Silver, which is expensive and requires that cost is not a measure of beauty. Stones are not more skill in handling, the only means of add­ is used after the student ing color to a design. has had more experi­ rods can be cut ence in designing. A fine with fine saws and pol­ finish is produced by ished; buttons, and more rubbing the metal with frequently, "cats eyes" steel wool and later pol­ which have been sent as ishing it with a buffer gifts from the Pacific and jeweler's rouge. An area, make attractiv.e oxidized finish is made rmgs. by dipping the metal in R ecently a student a solution of sulphur made an unusual pair and polishing the high­ of rings set with small er areas. Putting the finishing touches on a handmade sterling silver black c o n e - s h a p e d

is kept free from dirt bmcelet1 this student tightens the rilll to secure the stone settings stones. When they were and dust by dipping in worn together on adja­ a solution of dilute sulphuric acid. This is called cent fingers, a silver semi-circle was formed. If they are p£ckling. not too large, more than one stone may be set in a Rounded forms or spheres are made with a rubber ring. A small rim to hold the setting is made the hammer and a clapping tool and block. A rawhide size of the base of the stone and soldered onto the hammer which leaves no impressions is used to flatten ring. The stone is set inside the rim and held in place the metal. Square or rectangular blocks are built by by bending the rim tightly against the side of the stone. soldering together tiny pieces of metal. A flame of hot Bracelets also have few limitations. The type of gas and air is applied with quick darting movements bracelet which presents a challenge to the designer is to melt the solder. The steam disappears after it has a link bracelet which requires an easy clasp which will been thoroughly rubbed with steel wool. fit into the design of the bracelet. The links are The possibilities for original jewelry designs are rectangular built-up shapes, half spheres, or units built almost unlimited. J ewelry may serve both a deco­ of coils, balls or twisted meal. The fastening may be rative and functional purpose. A functional piece of part of the link or purely functional. Stones also may jewelry is not too heavy or bulky and has no sharp be set into bracelets. edges exposed. Unusual twin pins have been made which can be One of the most usual methods of designing jewelry worn separately or as a unit. They also may be set is making a sketch and later making an exact model with stones. Conventionalized flowers, animals and from paper or clay. Often the students fmd they can leaves are designed but the creation of abstract designs produce more interesting units by combining the dif­ requires more ingenuity and imagination. Students ferent shapes and forms they have constructed for have made pins and rings to go with original costumes practice in clapping and soldering techniques. By do­ designed in textile classes. Buttons also may be de­ ing this they can see more quickly and easily the pos­ signed to suit the personality of the student or her sibilities of a design. Occasionally after planning a costume. Belt buckles are made to match the buttons. pin or ring a girl will discover that by repetition of Some pieces of jewelry are being made to wear on the the design she can produce a smart bracelet. side of the belt. Through the jewelry course uninteresting barettes The students have many opportunities to sell their have acquired originality and character. One student original pieces and designs to friends, but most of made a barette which fit across the top of her head them prefer to keep their work. If labor and materials which was decorated with a row of two different size were available, these students might be producing semi-spheres. Her creation suited her hairdress and original designs for commercial use, for the field of personality. Instead of the plain silver barette a stu- well designed costume jewelry is widening.

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