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6278 CRUISING By Lynne Walsh

A couple, a catamaran and the Caribbean... Definitely the equation for happiness!

he Car T ibbean aboard a cat: An exceptional playground

No one said it was going to be easy. But nobody told us it was going to be so much fun! My husband Bob and myself, and our 5 year old Aussie mix dog Mollie, have been living aboard our Antares 44-foot sailing catamaran Leap of Faith in the eastern Caribbean for the past two years.

Aboard this Antares 44, Lynne and In October of 2007 we deci- on Grand Bahamas Island. Bob roamed the West Indian ded we were ready to head After watching the weather islands, from the USA. for the tropics. The passage closely for weeks, we crossed from Annapolis, Maryland to the notoriously treacherous Ft. Lauderdale, Florida was Gulf Stream in the early hours relatively uneventful. We’d on December 5th and sailed sail the Atlantic when weather across under full sail, accom- permitted, and motor down panied by a bright full moon, the Intracoastal Waterway with 10 knots on the beam (ICW) when the weather tur- and calm seas. ned foul. Our goal for the sea- son was to sail our boat to THE BAHAMAS ISLANDS the Caribbean by way of the We arrived in the beautiful “Thorny Path” using Bruce van Bahamas a mere 10 hours Sant’s invaluable guide to later. The elation we felt in help us. We would make our finally hitting the tropics was crossing from Ft. Lauderdale thus far unparalleled! We over to the port of West End were like kids in the prover- 62-65 crois Antares_MM139_US.QXP:croisiere_Antares_MM139 13/01/10 12:41 Page 63

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bial candy store; running on having been custom home- the perfect white sand builders. The level of detail beaches, snorkeling for hours that is built in to our boat in the crystal clear waters, makes us feel as if we still napping under gently live in a custom home, but at swaying palm trees, and sea! enjoying fresh fish and lobs- We slowly worked our way ter that Bob’s spear-fishing through the Bahamas, prowess produced from the enjoying those magnificent ocean. It was the paradise and completely unspoiled we had always imagined! islands. We made it to Six months earlier, Bob and I Georgetown, also known as retired from building custom chicken harbor because so homes in the beautiful but many cruisers with intentions cold and snowy tundra of of sailing to the Caribbean Sandpoint, Idaho. We sold “chicken out” once they hit the home, the cars, and the Georgetown. It’s the last toys, to set out on the adven- stop before the real passage- ture of a lifetime. We love making work begins, but we For nearly three years now: a happy couple in a brilliant playground... the mountains of Northern pressed on. We soon disco- Idaho, but knew the time had ver how aptly named the come for a change to a gen- Thorny Path is, as it was a The Bahamas to the Turks tastic sailing as the easterly tler climate. Finding the right very grueling four months of & Caicos, down to the trades are ever present, boat for us was a labor of motor-sailing, beating to Dominican Republic, along while the majority of easterly love. During the Miami 2004 wind in heavy easterly winds the North shore of the DR, swells and wind driven chop boat show we finally stepped and seas. Many night pas- crossed the Mona Passage to are blocked by Virgin Gorda onto the Antares 44 and sages were required because Puerto Rico, and then made Island. The real bonus is that knew instantly that we’d the wind would be more our way along the south side there are a plethora of found what we had been loo- islands close enough toge- king for. The layout was the ther that day sailing from one first thing that connected for Eventually, we discovered to another is almost always me. The cockpit can be wide available, regardless of open, or fully enclosed when that the 635 sq. ft. screecher on a conditions. the strata-glass panels are roller furling made just as good of a Having thus far spent the attached, and the spacious “ majority of our time beating helm station makes it comfor- downwind sail as our spinnaker to wind, we really hadn’t had table for long passages. much opportunity to sail Additionally, with the “galley downwind. The BVI’s provided down” in the port hull, it likely to moderate during that of Puerto Rico. Then” we this opportunity. The layout allows for an unusually large period. Admittedly, we had crossed the Vieques Passage of the islands allowed us and well-appointed galley, purchased a sailing vessel… to the Spanish Virgins, on to ample opportunity to sail on as well as making the saloon we wanted to sail and grew the US Virgins, and finally many points of sail. This was feel more like a typical living somewhat discouraged by into the British Virgin Islands. the first time we’d had a chance to finally hoist our room. The fit and finish was the amount of motoring that VIRGIN ISLANDS especially crucial for us was required. We beat from custom made spinnaker The research we had done while sailing both to and before embarking on the from Anegada Island. A deserted anchorage, just what “Leap of Faith” likes... “thorny path” leg of the Unquestionably, the spinna- adventure had not prepared ker made a spectacular sight, us for the reality of the level and we love to hoist it and of determination that was hear it snap open. However, required to push our way sou- rigging it took between 20 - theast to the Caribbean. 30 minutes, and the effort However, once we made would be for naught if we fai- landfall in the Virgin Islands, led to have accurate weather we knew all the hard work forecasting to determine its had been well worth it. suitability for the day’s condi- Returning to the British Virgin tions. Eventually, we discove- Islands was like coming home red that the 635 sq. ft. scree- again. We’d forgotten how cher on a roller furling (stan- beautiful and clear the dard sail included with our waters were. While the boat) made just as good of a islands predominantly lie downwind sail as our spinna- East to West, the North to ker. Best of all, it was always South orientation of them rigged and ready right there relative to the Sir Francis on our bowsprit. There was Drake Channel allows for fan- no need to blanket the sail 62-65 crois Antares_MM139_US.QXP:croisiere_Antares_MM139 13/01/10 12:41 Page 64

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fuel. Not speaking a word of French, we found ourselves standing in front of the pumps and looking for gaso- line. We had a choice bet- ween gazole (diesel) and essence (gasoline). After several moments of head scratching, guess which one we chose… yep, gazole. Sounds more like gasoline than essence doesn’t it? We can tell you for a fact that diesel does not care to be run in Honda gasoline outboards! We made it just far enough to get ourselves to the middle of the anchorage before our dinghy let out a great belch of black smoke and quit. Luckily, our friends saw us and towed us in for cocktail Lynne and Mollie, the dog... Life’s good, isn’t it? are among our top rated with hour. Why get towed back to their incredible patisseries, the boat when we knew we’d delectable assortment of have hours of work (and much with the main sail in order to hook in a quiet anchorage, imported cheeses, and excel- dowse it safely, no one is appreciating another beauti- cursing) ahead of us to get lent fashion shopping. The that diesel fuel out of our required to go forward to the ful sunset with a cool drink. locals have proven to be bow, we had no worries The real allure of the Virgin gasoline engine! Now, we quite gracious by maintaining carry a fantastic guide entit- about a squall sneaking up Islands for us is the fine and a friendly and helpful demea- behind us while daydreaming easy sailing, fantastic snorke- led “French for Cruisers” by nor in spite of us inadver- Kathy Parsons, and are lear- ning the lovely but difficult French language. I’m certain that when Bob got his certification One of our favorite aspects of he never imagined he’d use it cruising is the gift of seeing to revive a wild goat. ocean life in its splendor. “ Recently, while sailing in the BVI’s just north of Jost Van Dyke, a pod of whales were at the helm, (as happened to ling, abundant scuba diving, tently butchering their us one day while sailing from great kayaking, and hiking on ” breaching off our port side. beautiful language! Guadeloupe to Montserrat), the many trails ashore. This Another great brush with sea A prime example is our first life occurred as we were you can simply roll up the last year we were able to visit to Isle des Saintes. We screecher, and you’re done! spend enough time there to departing Trinidad for the were on our way to meet lovely isle of Tobago. We left We’ve discovered that with discover out-of-the way friends ashore for cocktails, 12-15 knots of apparent wind anchorages that felt as if the anchorage at 2am to when we noticed that we ensure we’d reach Tobago we could average 7-8 knots time had simply forgotten were running low on dinghy of boat speed. No need to about. We’d share these with plenty of sunlight in our even set the main sail. Not locations with you, but then, bad in our book! they’d lose their undiscove- There is still nowhere better than the Caribbean to spend a couple Both the USVI’s and BVI’s, red charm! of years cruising in the Tropics... offer the easy lifestyle. In the We hauled Leap of Faith out BVI’s you can easily sail into in Trinidad for the hurricane Road Harbor, Tortola, walk season but when we returned from the anchorage to a in early November, we were selection of markets, provi- able to spend a great deal of sion your boat, and be back time lazily exploring the on the boat within an hour. Leeward’s, Windward’s, and Set sail and another hour Grenadines, and are often later, you’re dangling on the asked which island is our favorite. The Caribbean Islands offer such a variety of experiences it is impossible to choose for they all have their own allure. But we must admit that the French Islands

Fishing is one of the favourite activities aboard. 62-65 crois Antares_MM139_US.QXP:croisiere_Antares_MM139 13/01/10 12:42 Page 65

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goat went under. Bob jumped dastardly deed, where he from the dinghy and hauled approached us quite readily, the goat back onto the rocky and appeared very healthy. shore. It was not breathing so Luckily, we were able to sail Bob began CPR by pumping on knowing he was safe and his chest and slapping his sound. I’m certain that when face (no, Bob recounts, Bob got his certification he mouth-to-mouth was NOT an never imagined he’d use it to option!). Immediately the revive a wild goat. goat coughed up salt water, I must admit that living but then passed out again. aboard a boat is unlike any- Bob continued his CPR efforts thing I ever expected. It has until finally the goat let out a its difficulties to be sure, but little “baaayyyy”, and we the rewards of being able to both felt tremendous relief. explore the many beautiful We continued to soothe and islands are unparalled. Each Life aboard a boat: real happiness... stroke him until he finally was day offers a new look into able to regain his wobbly their rich histories, and the favor. I was sitting in the star- THE RESCUE... legs. He stood, turned to us, chance to meet the friendly board bow seat with the Before departing our very and let out a tremendous local people. I’ve learned to searchlight, keeping a loo- structured and admittedly “BBBAAAYYY” as if to scold us identify and shop for the exo- kout for unmarked obstruc- mundane lives back in Idaho, for our inattentiveness, and tic fruits and vegetables, and tions, when we acquired a we agreed that safety at sea teetered off into the bushes. also learned to prepare the delightful escort… a pod of was essential, knowing it He was right to berate us, local Caribbean dishes about 20 large dolphins. would primarily be just Bob and Mollie will never again (except breadfruit… that’s a They were “bow surfing” as and I aboard our Antares, we be allowed to roam the toughie). We never tire of they’re known to do. both got our CPR certifica- beaches off-leash when wild- swimming in clean clear Suddenly, I heard several tions. Recently Bob had life is present. turquoise waters. But best loud, rhythmic “thumps” just cause to use his when our The following morning we of all, we’ve developed below me, and felt the boat dog Mollie, while making a took a hike to find the goat friendships with fellow vibrate with each thump. routine beach landing, inad- and assure ourselves that he cruisers that will hopefully Shining the light down onto vertently herded a wild goat was o.k. We found him not far last a lifetime. These gifts the dolphins, I was able to straight into the ocean. from the location of the are far greater than we ever see a particularly large one Realizing too late what had expected, and its all here for swimming alongside, occurred; we immediately cal- the taking, if one only has whacking our hull with his led her back to allow the goat the temerity to take their powerful tail. This went on for to swim back to shore. own Leap of Faith. several minutes until Bob However, the goat proceeded frantically called to me to to swim further out to sea! … All you have to do is leave! come take the helm while he Bob, fearing the goat was checked the engines. too panicked to find it’s way Apparently the sound and back ran to the dinghy, fired vibration created by the hull- it up, and chased down the thumping dolphin was so goat to herd it back to the extreme, it made Bob fear safety of the beach. All was some engine catastrophe had looking very successful, when just occurred! just two feet from shore the