6SpecialDECCAN HERALD Features Sunday, April 30, 2017 Ahmedabad’s very own residential Musee du Louvre

everal French travellers since mid- walk the extra mile to restore their her- an important concern that many historic Each room at French Haveli– Chabu- 17th century have penned down the itage to its pristine glory. cities like Ahmedabad are losing their rich- taro, Malo (nest), Ordo (room), Agaashi Surban, economics and industrial his- The French Haveli of Dhal ni Pol (abode built heritage and cultural identity. The (terrace) and Mahajan (great man) suite tory of Gujarat and Ahmedabad. The con- on slope/slant as situated on a small haveli is the living example of investing in room-- too has its own individual charis- nect between the European nation and hillock) encompasses within the old world heritage and culture preservation by cre- ma. And the food served at the haveli re- Ahmedabad has since been growing deep- charm and city’s rich heritage legacy. ating partnerships with community and mains fresh and traditional made of veg- er, with French setting up multiple edu- The restoration work on this 150-year- developing sustainable ecosystems. etables and ingredients purchased from cational institutes in the city known for its old structure was begun by the French With the adaptive reuse of this house, nearby markets at the historic Manek trade and business. team, which also lived in it as it went Patel worked on making sensitive inter- Chowk. This relationship got a further boost around helping preserve city’s rich her- ventions like reviving the “tanka” (water No wonder, it has become a charm for when the Ahmedabad Municipal Corpo- itage. It later became a residency--Arts tank) for storage. The interiors have subtle travellers from across the globe who make ration joined hands with a French team, Reverie – for artists and other creative pro- mix-- both contemporary and traditional- French Haveli their abode, even if it is for led by architect Pierre Cadot, for a project fessionals. However, when those running -providing a unique blend of living amidst a few hours or a couple of days. In fact, to restore and renovate the walled city. Arts Reverie found it difficult to carry on, the community combining Gujarat’s cul- during kite festival–Uttarayan – in Ahmed- The team walked the narrow by-lanes of a group of passionate individuals, led by ture with comfort and luxury. abad, the roof of French Haveli gets bid the walled city, traversing multitude of pols 48-year-old real estate developer Rajiv Pa- The soul of the haveli happens to be its for as high as Rs 1,00,000. (small residential units) and khadkis tel, took over. central court, open to sky, air and light. It Rajiv is now working to replicate this (smaller enclaves encompassed within the They named it French Haveli, despite also has a retraceable roof for everyone to model to restore more than a dozen prop- pols) that had their roots in the foundation the fact that it was a traditional haveli of a enjoy monsoons. The jhula (traditional erties in the old city. He says people buy in 1411 AD, the year in which Ahmedabad Jain family in an area that was primarily a Gujarati style swing) in the central court real estate but do not know its worth. was founded. residence of mercantile and jewellers be- is the best place to relax and calm your French Haveli, he feels, is a successful Ahmedabad has over 600 pols over- longing to Jain community. The swing in the central court of French Haveli in Ahmedabad. nerves. model for every stakeholder. For the mon- looked by a group of houses on a single “The name French Haveli is intriguing The community space of the French eybags, it is better return on investment; street protected by a massive gate at the but we named it so as it is famous here as had taken a heritage walk in the old city? “The next big challenge was to hunt for Haveli has a Chabutaro (a place for birds for heritage enthusiasts, a great way to entrance. Densely populated, they togeth- the place where the French team stayed “I just went out of sheer curiosity but got artisans as the whole field is dying without to feed as found in most of the pols of old preserve richness of our culture; for trav- er create a maze of winding narrow lanes and worked. And they were the ones who introduced to a whole new world. It was any workable revenue model or econom- Ahmedabad) and a century-old heritage ellers, to revel in history and great oppor- forming a series of micro-neighbourhoods. educated people on heritage by beginning very inspiring and six months later when ics,” he says. Jain temple. tunity for living communities to cleaner It is this unique self-sustained town plan- the revitalisation of heritage anywhere in the French Haveli was on the block, I sim- It is then that he thought of creating a And walking towards French Haveli environs, better earning opportunities and ning that gives old city of Ahmedabad its India from here. They did so by restoring ply bought it,” he says. model that would show to the world a from the main street in itself is a remark- to welcome the world to their doorsteps. identity. An identity it has maintained till the dilapidated structure, without disturb- However, with the purchase began the workable and economically viable way of able transition from the chaotic urbane “This is a legendary effort for life. It is date. ing its heritage value. The name is to com- series of challenges to restore the property. restoring heritage structures to their pris- life to serene and historic period. One gets passion married to economic reality. It is A large section of Amdavadis continue memorate their whole effort and a tribute To begin with, he had no background in tine glory. He did so by turning it into a transformed to the world of past as one the model that can turn old dying cities to reside in these pols for over six cen- to the French,” adds Rajiv. restoring heritage properties. So he began heritage homestay. traverses amidst cluster of rows of houses into economic hub. It is the model that turies. While most have remodeled their Rajiv’s tryst with restoring heritage by travelling to Europe to see how entire What one needs to understand here is bundled together by labyrinthine streets can now be replicated across historic cities abode to suit modern living, there are a buildings began almost a decade ago when cities were preserved. This is where, he that it may come across as an artistically that open into sub-lanes or khadki and in our country,” Rajiv adds. few who continue to revel in the past and his architect friend asked him whether he says, that vision of restoration started. decorated heritage home but it addresses public squares or “chowks”. Sunil Raghu in Ahmedabad

Life convicts manage the cafe Restoring the ruins or building a resort? Brewing beyond just uldhara in district in Ra- cultural productivity, without a correspon- jasthan is a deserted village. But ding reduction in tax demands from the K those staying in nearby villages claim Jaisalmer state. they occasionally hear whispering sounds According to him that could have forced from deserted lanes. A septuagenarian Paliwals to abandon Kuldhara. However, says he has heard rustling and whistling local folklore has it that Paliwals left the sounds from the abandoned huts in the village to save the honour of one of the coffee in hill town village. Seventy-nine-year-old Bhim Singh girls of the village with whom Salim Singh could not muster courage to see what the was besotted. Tawarikh-i-Jaisalmer, a sound is all about. book written by Lakshmi Chand in 1899, A visitor can hear scores of such tales states that a Paliwal named Kad- from young and old alike. han was the first person to settle in Kuld- Now, Tourism Department hara village. He excavated a pond called has decided to make the abandoned Kuld- Udhansar in the village. hara village a tourist place and soon it will The ruins of the village include 3 cre- lose its eerie tag. Once a prosperous village mation grounds, with several devalis inhabited by Paliwal , it was (memorial stones or cenotaphs). The vil- abandoned in the early 19th century. But lage had a settlement by early 13th century, now on the map and website of Rajasthan as indicated by two devali inscriptions. Tourism Department, the village has These inscriptions are dated in the Bhattik found life. Samvat (a calendar era starting in 623 Kuldhara is about 20 kms to the west of CE), and record the deaths of two residents the desert town of Jaisalmer. The village in 1235 CE and 1238 CE respectively. has just patches of vegetation. Goats that Attempts are being made to restore the stray into the village, which was a pros- place as it was some 200 years ago. perous one when it was founded by Paliwal Tourists and historians disapprove of the Brahmins in 13th century, feast on the veg- restoration work conducted by Abha etation. People abandoned the village, Narain Lambah Associates. The company some 200 years ago, possibly due to severe is not following the terms and conditions water crisis. Local legend has it that the in the MoU, historians alleged. villagers fled because of persecution by Uma Devi, 44, a worker and a nearby the Jaisalmer state's minister Salim Singh. villager, said, “The basic structures are be- The Rajasthan government and Jindal ing tampered with and old houses are be- Steel Works have decided to develop the ing removed by earth movers and efforts village as a tourist spot under public-pri- are being made to give the place a new vate partnership. The plan includes estab- look. We have never seen Kuldhara like lishment of facilities for visitors such as a this. It is getting the look of a resort instead cafe, a lounge, a folk-dance performance of ruins.” area, night-stay cottages and shops. Joy and Maria, a traveller couple who To ensure that Kuldhara no more lives visited Kuldhara after five years expressed with the tag of a cursed village and to drive their unhappiness. Joy said, “we were away the “evil” spirits, havan and prayers shocked to see the concrete pathways. The were performed in September 2016. construction going on amid old houses The three-phased work will take at least with a parking lot is not acceptable at a three years for completion. Shikha Saxena, place like this. It has absolutely ruined the developmental officer at Rajasthan aesthetic look of the village. Thousands of Tourism, told DH, “Two tourist informa- people come to see this abandoned village, tion centres will come up in the village. but if such work continues then Kuldhara They will inform visitors about village's will lose its charm.” traditional farming techniques and water Dharmendar Kanwar, state convener A couple take a selfie in front of Book Cafe in Shimla. management. In the next couple of years for the Indian National Trust for Art and ,Kuldhara will become a must-see place Cultural Heritage (INTACH), Rajasthan for tourists." Chapter, told DH, “We have condemned Famous historian and professor at the act and also written a letter to Ra- The initiative is 46-year-old Jai Chand and 36-year-old Yogi Raj-- victed in the murder case years ago. He now rel- Aligarh Muslim University Ali Nadeem jasthan's Archaeological Department. The are managing much of the front end and back end ishes the open air at the ridge every day like never Rezavi, in his book: Kuldhara Social and district administration and art and culture to instil positive business at the cafe. before. The jail officials are aware of the calculated Economic Implications, says, “In 19th cen- department should keep a tab on the on- Snacks and food in bulk are made at the kitchen risk they have taken by “freeing”life convicts during tury, the village had been deserted for un- going restoration work, as these ruins are inside Kaithu Jail in Shimla every day. So, it’s ef- the day. But they ensured adequate checks and bal- known reasons. Possible causes proposed historically important.” sentiments among fectively jail food that is being served to tourists at ances before this plan was rolled out. In fact, not include lack of water and the atrocities of Expressing her concern, Vibha Upad- the cafe. Ask astrologers or believers of faith to far away from Shimla is an experiment more or a diwan (official) named Salim Singh (or hyaya, Professor at History department, jail inmates know how auspicious jail food could be at times to less similar that is taking place since long in Bi- Zalim Singh). By 1815, most of the wells in Rajasthan University, said, “Such places wean away ill-luck. But surely that isn’t the reason laspur in . the village had dried up. By 1850, only the are to be kept as they are. This kind of this cafe is doing good business. A small jail in hill riverside town follows a rare step-well and two other deep wells were restoration is not acceptable at all. Such a Jail officials say the initiative will instil positive drill every day to reform inmates. At this jail, con- functional.” place does not need a concrete pathway sentiments among inmates that will be conducive victs, some who have committed murder, are When Rezavi surveyed the village in the or glass as construction material.” The uffs of white clouds rolling down densely to reform them in the long run. The two, they say, “freed”in the morning and moved to a nearby mar- 1990s, only stagnant water was found at restoration work needs supervision. Kuld- inhabited hill terrains, caressing passers- were chosen out of many other inmates on the ket where they work in shops and offices. It’s a some parts of what might have been a hara today is maintained by the Archaeo- by with an invisible hand and then gently basis of their expertise and good conduct. After strict 9-to-5 arrangement that helps convicts not dried-up river bed. The dwindling water logical Survey of India as a heritage site. gliding away with the cool breeze often the routine roll call every morning, the two are fer- only earn a living but also reform themselves while supply would have greatly reduced agri- Tabeena Anjum in Jaisalmer Pleaves many mesmerised. Look all around ried to the Book Cafe. At 8 pm the two are back in being in the midst of society. For sometime now, snow-clad mountains in the backdrop of tall deodar the jail once the cafe is closed for the day. this jail has sobriquet “open jail”. The market in trees--the picturesque view of the queen of hills, Burgers, cakes, biscuits, pizzas and more baked the area is a free place. Shimla, from the plateau-like ridge is breathtaking. in the jail kitchen are being savoured by tourists. Convicts hard-sell garments, make profits out And if it is hot coffee to give you company, you Beyond just the taste of good food and coffee, locals of grocery sales and a lot more. If officials are to be couldn't have asked for more. visiting the cafe say they like spending money at believed, some inmates even worked in private fac- A lot is happening over coffee these days in Shim- this cafe as it fills them with some degree of com- tories. The dawn-to-dusk arrangement outside the la, erstwhile capital of the British Raj days. One passion, rightly or otherwise. A mini-library stacked jail leaves prisoners with an added sense of respon- side of the ridge is a newly opened “Book Café” with magazines, comics and books is there to add sibility, say officials. Some have even managed to that one would be excused for having ignored or to the flavour while relishing hot coffee. The outlet own a shop in the market. overlooked at first look. Like many book cafes top- is being run in collaboration with the local civic So far, jail officials are yet to come across an in- ping up with snacks and sizzling hot coffee in the corporation and the jail authorities. cident of a convict fleeing. But not all inmates get capital town, this one too looks much similar, in Jai Chand was sentenced for abetting his wife’s the privilege to be freed every day. Hardened crim- fact, a lot understated sans the glitz. But this cafe suicide some 8-years ago. He has a 16-year-old son inals, rapists and those with history of heinous is hogging the limelight for one peculiar variation who can now meet the father during the day at the crimes are kept indoors. The open jail concept it has from the rest. cafe. Jai Chand regrets the unfortunate turn of would not have succeeded if the shopkeepers were It’s a book café-cum-snack bar run by jail in- events in his life. His son scored well in the class not large-hearted. Inherent in this concept is the mates, to be precise by life convicts. If the thought XII examination and he is a bookworm. Jai Chand liberty that families of convicts get by meeting their starts to frighten you, don’t be, for there’s no reason used to work at a local hotel at Manali. His talent loved ones who have been locked inside the four to be deterred. In fact, this eatery is gaining far as a chef at the hotel helped him win this assign- walls of the jail. Sundays are off days. The next day, more footfalls and doing brisk business than many ment at the cafe. for sure, must be eagerly awaited. would have expected. For now, two life convicts-- His junior buddy Yogi Raj was an electrician con- Gautam Dheer in Chandigarh Concrete pathway in Kuldhara village in Rajasthan. TABEENAH ANJUM