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SHTAV NEWS HISTORIC TOWNS and VILLAGES 2005 Issue Number 1 of the UK Contents FOCUS on IFFLEY Richard Abberbury of Donnington Castle Focus on Iffley in 1393

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SHTAV NEWS HISTORIC TOWNS and VILLAGES 2005 Issue Number 1 of the UK Contents FOCUS on IFFLEY Richard Abberbury of Donnington Castle Focus on Iffley in 1393 JOURNAL of the ASSOCIATION OF SMALL SHTAV NEWS HISTORIC TOWNS AND VILLAGES 2005 Issue Number 1 of the UK Contents FOCUS ON IFFLEY Richard Abberbury of Donnington Castle Focus on Iffley in 1393. He, and his successors, became pages 1,2,3&4 absentee landlords of Iffley and Iffley ef- One man, one mile, and one goal The Location of New Resi- fectively turned into a colony of workers, dential Development: Its changed forever the significance of Iffley slaving to feather the Newbury nest. Ri- Influence on Car Based Trav- when Roger Bannister ran the world’s chard founded an almshouse in Newbury el first mile in under four minutes on the that was supported by specific rents from pages 1, 5 & 6 University of Oxford’s “Iffley Road” run- Iffley village. Apparently, the Donnington The Inspector Says .... ning track. Hospital still owns land around Iffley! pages 7 &8 Isn’t it curious how the “asset-strippers” of Planning for the Age But, what of IFFLEY THE VILLAGE ? yesteryear become hallowed in the of Mobility names of charity organisations dedicated page 9 Iffley was created about a thousand years to keeping families together through mod- Thoughts on Heritage ago on a site which offered the first rising ern life’s economic and social catastro- Benchmark Records ground by the meandering, marshy river Passing along Iffley Road, one encounters phes? page 10 Thames downstream of Oxford. Here was two expressions “Grand Pont” and ASHTAV Financial Statement a place of fertile, loamy soil, safe in times page 11 “Donnington”. Grand Pont now defines Nothing protects like the aspic of neglect. of flood, with a hill (Rose Hill) full of clay THE ASHTAV CAMPAIGN: a district outside of East Gate of Oxford Newbury’s gain was our gain, too. Had and stone for building whilst its bordering MAKING PLANNING FAIRER that links Oxford to Iffley. Originally, the the Lord of the Manor resided in and tak- river provided fresh drinking water, easy pages 12 &13 Grand Pont was the first edition of “Folly en a pride in Iffley Village, its jewel, the transportation and energy to drive a Mill. Soapbox Bridge” at the “Head of the River”. The late Norman Parish Church of St Mary, pages 14 & 15 Grand Pont opened up the Iffley area to would have changed from time to time to Walking to Iffley from Oxford along the Cathedrals Count land traffic. Much later it was joined by accord with building or ecclesiastical fash- river Thames you see and sense its histo- page16 Donnington Road Bridge. There are ion. As it is, the Church is astonishingly ry. You pass Merton College, almost cer- The Rise and Fall many other buildings and institutions pure, a piece of decorated Romanesque tainly built around 1290 with “Iffley” of the Parsonage from a public house to community cen- architecture that one might expect to trav- limestone by Walter Merton, Baron of pages17 and 18 tres dedicated to “Donnington” in Great- el to Normandy to see. John Betjeman Iffley and founder of “his” College. Was Helpfile er Iffley. Why? put it in his prime category of page 18 Iffley stone taken the mile upstream to Bits, Bytes and Bobs Merton by punts, progenitors of similar The clue lies in the ruins of Donnington page 19 flat-bottomed boats that once supplied the Castle just outside Newbury, 15 miles or churches to visit - those worth cycling Heritage Link Helpfile Isis Public House, an attractive Georgian so to the south. Donnington Castle and twelve miles against the wind! pages 20 & 21 riverside hostelry across the Lock from Estate and the town of Newbury benefited ASHTAV goes WORLDWIDE Iffley village with its “guest” beer barrels? greatly from Iffley Village. King Richard The Church is set on a man-made shelf page23 II’s Queen gave Iffley and its lands to Sir on rising ground not far from the river ASHTAV Events, Policies and People: on the back Continued on page 2 versity) and Carey Curtis, but it was The thought that the conditions and the is- sues remained little altered, whilst the PETER HEADICAR subject matter is ever more relevant. lecture: This March 2004 afternoon meeting in Iffley, on the outskirts of Oxford, marked The Location of a deviation from the usual pattern of ASHTAV events, in that a booking was New Residential made at a local Inn for those who indicat- ed they wished to have lunch prior to the Development: lecture which commenced at 2.00 pm. The hall was most picturesque, it was now sadly almost all filled with housing Its Influence on once the thatched village school, now development. Also, they had a traffic thoughtfully refurbished to provide excel- problem - much to delegates’ surprise as Peter Headicar Car Based Travel lent facilities for a meeting such as ours. they had noted the now unusual spectacle illuminatesASHTAV’s We were welcomed by Simon King, the of small children pushing prams and rid- Iffley Seminar Vice Chairman of the Friends of Iffley ing tricycles in the middle of the lane out- Village Society. Simon described it side the hall! Ray Green, our Chairman, gaining Conservation Area status, but then quoted a recent statistic – that the This report was prepared over three years that over the intervening years this had average journey to work is approximately ago by Peter Headicar (Reader In Trans- not been sufficient to protect what had 8 miles and the average shopping trip 1 port Planning At Oxford Brookes Uni- been a generous helping of green spaces, around 4 miles – prior to introducing our Continued on page 5 Zig zag and beak heads add distinction to the late Norman doorways. below so that it dom- inates views from Oxford’s water-meadows to church, Robert de Remy’s eagerness to create a little the west. It has a massive presence, yet inside bit of his Norman homeland by the banks of the one is aware how narrow is its nave. Simplici- Thames. ty of design coupled to massively thick mason- ry walls built of rubble-stone on rubble-stone The Church and now the village have a close associa- are the reasons for the discrepancy. The vital tion with an Anchoress, Annora. To renounce the external features are the doorways, typical world, to be walled in next to Iffley church chancel late-Norman round-top openings enriched (that she may have funded), to face a life of isolation with multiple rows of carved zig zags and bea- and pure contemplation are acts of self-denial that kheads. Beakhead patterns are rare in Britain seem foreign in today’s “Me” world. Annora was Eng- (they first appeared at Reading Abbey) and lish and high-born, yet her name sounds so Eastern. they show the probable founder of the Today, the ample Edwardian “Tree Hotel” in Iffley advertises its “Annora International Restau- by his widow,. The window is gloriously rich in tone rant” offering the best of Indian, Thai and colours and challenges the mind’s ear as the animals English cuisine. What a heady melange of cru- utter onomatopoeic praise of Christ’s birth, echoing el temptations must waft around the place of an ancient French poem: Annora’s cell a mere stone’s throw away! Because the beasts of years gone by Spoke more Latin than French St Mary’s Church is full of carvings of living The cock who saw the fact from far creatures from a “born again” dragon losing its Cried “Christus natus Est”, sinful, old skin to a thirteenth century depic- “Christ is Born”. tion of The Lamb of God that was unearthed The bull with slow astonished air in the rectory garden about forty years ago. Asked “Ubi? Ubi?”, “Where? Where?” So, this church is a fine setting for a Nativity The goat, wiping his snout masterpiece designed by Britain’s leading 20th Replied it was in Bethlehem century window designer. It may have been his Master Donkey, most curious last work and was given to the church in 1995 To go and see, ”Eamus”, said “Let’s Go!” And jumping up on his hooves, the Calf Iffley village retains is sense of village community, it Twice bellowed “Volo, volo.” “Me, too.” has refused to become merely a sleepy suburb of the City of Oxford. Villages depend on having places where people congregate, exchange community WHAT CAN WE news and connect. Iffley residents noticed that one LEARN FROM by one the engines of community were falling si- lent. Many villages have accepted such change as IFFLEY ? inexorable and have settled for loss of identity and togetherness. In May 1999, Iffley residents faced the choice of sounding “The Last Post” or the “Call to Arms” as their final village shop closed. Iffley residents were made of stern stuff and awoken by “Reveille” they set out their stall. Within six months, he village shop was reopened as a thriving HOW TO KEEP A not-for -profit “IFFLEY COMMUNITY SHOP” selling locally grown fruit and vegetables and traid- VILLAGE SHOP OPEN craft produce as well as providing the services asso- ciated with traditional village shops and post offices, I noted the delightful basket outside offer- ing free stale bread to young and old who pass by to 2 For Help: Email [email protected] encourage them to drop down Mill Lane New Horizons Trust sible closures - and staff to feed the geese on Iffley Lock. Fund raising activities including garage shortages. What have been the keys to the success of and car boot sales. this venture? Initially, a scheme was set up so villagers To find out more about running a Com- Using residents as volunteers to operate could purchase vouchers for later munity Shop why not contact: the shop redemption in the shop Sue Reynolds Using a Local Agenda 21 Group Bloody-mindedness 82 Church Way Tapping advice from local businesses The Shop is run by a dedicated Iffley Using allotment holders and local fruit Association led by a committee of 12.
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