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INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy subm itted. Broken or indistinct print, colored or poor quality illustrations and photographs, print bleedthrough, substandard margins, and improper alignment can adversely affect reproduction. In the unlikely event that the author did not send UMI a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if unauthorized copyright material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9” black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. Bell & Howell Information and Learning 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 USA 800-521-0600 UMI" FRATERNAL REGALIA IN AMERICA, 1865 TO 1918: DRESSING THE LODGES; CLOTHING THE BROTHERHOOD DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment for the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Harriet Wain McBride, B.S. in Ed., M.A., M.S. * * ★ ★ + The Ohio State University 2000 Dissertation Committee: Approved by Patricia A. Cunningham, Adviser Gwendolyn O'Neal J Marcia Dickson Adviser K. Austin Kerr College of Human Ecolo(^ UMI Number; 9994906 Copyright 2000 by McBride, Harriet Wain All rights reserved. UMI UMI Microform 9994906 Copyright 2001 by Bell & Howell Information and Learning Company. Ail rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. Bell & Howell Information and Leaming Company 300 North Zeeb Road P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Copyright by Harriet Wain McBride 2000 ABSTRACT Prescribed forms of dress, including theatrical costumes, ritual articles of clothing and militaristic uniforms, were a singular and essential element in the phenomenon of the secret fraternal society movement in the United States in the years 18 65 to 1918. The demand for fraternal regalia spawned a distinct and prosperous industry which flourished for eighty years. The story of the fraternal society movement is incomplete without consideration of the garments used by the secret societies, and of the companies that made them. Since their inception, secret fraternal societies have used ritual items of dress imbued with symbolic meaning. In nineteenth century America, as fraternalism embraced twenty percent of the male population, the use of clothing increased and took on new meanings. Rituals increased in complexity and initiation rites assumed a theatrical quality. Fraternal orders added new degrees and side orders modeled on private militias, which required uniforms. Fraternal regalia evolved into three distinct categories reflecting the three aspects of the Great Fraternal Movement 11 - sacred rites, theatrical dramas and public displays of patriotic militarism. This story of fraternal regalia is told from the perspective of The M.C.Lilley & Co. of Columbus, Ohio. This firm manufactured, distributed and sold fraternal regalia from 18 65 to 1953. It was the largest of the regalia houses and serves as an example of the industry that fraternalism supported in the years of the Great Fraternal Movement. Regalia manufacturers used specialized marketing techniques and capitalized on political events to create demand for their wares. These companies were instrumental in organizing new lodges and devising new rituals in order to expand markets for their products. The rise of the regalia industry in the United States paralleled that of the societies it served. Firms which identified themselves specifically with the fraternal orders, and which concentrated their product lines on items of dress, prospered as the movement grew. The fortunes of the secret fraternal societies and those of the regalia manufacturers were intertwined, and the interests of one organization informed and served the interests of the other. Xll To my sister, Diane Wainwood IV ACKNOWLEDGMENT As with most academic endeavors/ this has been a collegial effort. I am grateful to all who have been a part of my endeavor, for the assistance and support I received from the faculty and staff of the Department of Consumer and Textile Sciences. I especially thank my adviser. Dr. Patricia Cunningham, and my committee members, Dr. Gwendolyn O'Neal, Dr. Marsha Dickson and Dr. Austin Kerr. Your guidance and advice has made me a better student. The following institutions allowed me access to their materials and archives: The Museum of Our National Heritage; The George Washington National Masonic Memorial; the Scottish Rite Southern Jurisdiction House of the Temple; the Scottish Rite Temple, Guthrie Oklahoma; the Grand Lodge of Ohio Free and Accepted Masons; the Sovereign Grand Lodge Independent Order of Odd Fellows; the Chancellor Robert Livingston Masonic Library; and The Ohio Historical Society. Special thanks goes to Court Hall who sustained an on-going interest in this project and shared his extensive knowledge about life in early Columbus. Marvin Bonowitz kindly shared his photographs of the Lilley Building at Long and Sixth Streets, and told me about the last days of the company. Ward Weber explained his duties as wardrobe master for the Valley of Columbus Scottish Rite, and provided access to the organization's costumes and regalia. Dr. Jim Tresner opened the Wardrobe Room of the Scottish Rite Temple in Guthrie, Oklahoma, and allowed me to browse at my leisure and to photograph M.C.Lilley & Co. garments. Charles Scott gave me a personal tour of that wonderful building. Terry Barrett, Sovereign Grand Secretary of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows along with his staff provided unlimited access to the library and collections of the Sovereign Grand Lodge, and made me most welcome. Keith Bailey, successor to the M.C.Lilley & Co., was generous with his time, artifacts, information and documents unavailable anywhere else. Dr. John Terrence Golden supplied the geneology of the Lindenberg family. Chad Simpson, Calvin Smith, Keith Moore and Grace Ann Inskeep shared personal perspectives on fraternalism. I appreciate your contributions. Leta Hendricks has been a guide and good friend. Lucy Sibley opened the door to the study of historic costume, Sharron Lennon and Kathryn Jakes invited me in, Ann Rudolph provided the funds, Gwen O'Neal made me feel at home and Gayle Strege walked beside me all the way. I thank them. To Bob and our children, Betsie, Brad, Jennie, Sarah and Dave, thanks for your love, patience and understanding. VI VITA B o r n ........................... Sidney, Ohio 1962 ........................... B.S. in Ed., History, Social Studies, Speech The Ohio State University 1976 ........................... M.A., Political Science The Ohio State University 1998 ........................... M.S., Human Ecology Consumer and Textile Science The Ohio State University 1995-1997 .................... Research Associate The Ohio State University 1997-1998 .................... Teaching Associate The Ohio State University 1998-1999 .................... Dorothy D. Scott Fellow The Ohio State University FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Human Ecology Specialization - Textiles and Clothing Minor Field: American History vri TABLE OF CONTENTS Eage A b s t r a c t ...................................................... ii Dedication.................................................... iv Acknowledgments ........................................... v V i t a ..........................................................vii List of F i g u r e s ............................................. xi Chapters : 1. Introduction ......................................... 1 2. Fraternal Orders from Inception to 1800 ............ 20 2.1 From Craft Guild to Fraternity...................21 2.2 From Operative to Speculative Freemasonry . 29 2.3 Freemasonry and the E n l i g h t e n m e n t ..............30 2.4 Freemasonry in E u r o p e ........................... 33 2.5 Freemasonry in A m e r i c a ........................... 36 2.6 Regalia in the Eighteenth C e n t u r y ..............39 2.7 Fraternalism and P a t r i o t i s m .....................47 3. Fraternalism in America 1800 - 1860 55 3.1 The Hautes Gr a d e .................................. 57 3.2 The Higher Degrees Americanized................... 60 3.3 The Sacred and the Secular........................62 3.4 Blue Lodge Rituals and Costume ................... 69 3.5 The Masonic Apron - Recognition and Identity . 76 3.6 Regalia as B u s i n e s s ...........................7 9 3.7 The New Fraternities............................. 81 3.7.1 Odd Fellowship.......................... 81 3.7.2 Expanded Fraternalism ................. 89 3.8 The Anti-Masonic Movement......................... 92 3.9 Fraternalism and Militarism .....................93 Vl l l 4. Business, Industry, Society and Fraternalism in Columbus, Ohio 1804-1860 ............................ 108 4.1 The Young City 1803-1860 .....................
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