Restoring Lost Glory of Pashmina Shawls

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Restoring lost glory of Pashmina shawls September 2, 2021 In news– An initiative has been launched in Jammu & Kashmir to restore the lost glory of Pashmina shawls. The Centre For Excellence (CFE) has been set up by shawl trader Mujtaba Kadri, who owns the ‘Me&K’ brand and Aadyam-Aditya Birla Group to restore the lost hand-driven processes involved in the intricate shawl weaving industry. About Pashmina shawls- Pashmina shawl is a hand-made shawl from Jammu & Kashmir. It refers to a fine variant of spun cashmere, the animal-hair fibre forming the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goat. The word pashm means “wool” in Persian, but in Kashmir, pashm referred to the raw unspun wool of domesticated Changthangi goats. This goat is exotic and is only found at 15000 feet above sea level in Ladakh, making the art of Pashmina even rarer and revered all over the world. Spinning on a traditional Kashmiri charkha allows longer threads of Pashmina wool with fine hair-like size, unlike machines, and adds to the softness and warmth of the product. A Kashmiri woman can spin up to five grams of wool a day. It is a geographical indication (GI)-certified product. It also received a Minimum Support Price (MSP) from Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom, Kashmir. Changthangi Goat- The Changthangi or Chagra is a breed of cashmere goat native to the high plateaux of Ladakh in India. The cold temperatures in the region are the primary factor in the growth of the fine pashmina grade of cashmere wool for which they are reared. These goats are generally domesticated and are reared by nomadic communities called the Changpa in the Changthang regions of Ladakh, including the Rupshu, Demchok/Skakjung and the Pangong Lake regions. The goats survive on grass in Ladakh, where temperatures plunge to as low as −20 °C (−4.00 °F).

Copy Link

Recommended publications

Pashmina Shawls
Pashmina Shawls March 27, 2021 About Pashmina Shawls In 2019, the Bureau of India Standards (BIS) published an Indian standard for identification, marking and labelling the Pashmina Shawls for its purity. Pashmina Shawls are a fine variant of shawls spun from cashmere wools. A cashmere wool itself is obtained from the Changthangi goat native to the high plateau of Ladakh. Pashmina Shawls status symbol not just for the wealthy in Indian but even across the world, known for its soft features, The shawl made up of pashmina wool was promoted as an alternative to Shahtoosh shawl. Shahtoosh Shawls is made from the Tibetan Antelope. Due to demand for Shahtoosh, the shawl had wiped out 90% of the Tibetan Antelope. To preserve what population is left, other alternatives, like the pashmina shawl, are being considered. History of Pashmina Shawls Pashmina shawls gained much prominence in the days of the Mughal Empire as objects of rank and nobility. Babur first established the practice of giving khilat – giving ‘robes of honour’ – in 1526 to members of his court for their devoted service, high achievements or as a mark of royal favour, made of Pashmina wool. Upon the complete conquest of Kashmir in 1568 by Akbar, a pair of pashmina shawls were an integral part of a khilat ceremony. Pashmina Pashmina is a fine type of cashmere wool. The wool comes from a number of different breeds of the cashmere goat; such as the changthangi or Kashmir pashmina goat from the Changthang Plateau in Tibet and part of the Ladakh region and few parts of Himachal Pradesh.
[Show full text]
Animal Genetic Resources Information Bulletin
The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Les appellations employées dans cette publication et la présentation des données qui y figurent n’impliquent de la part de l’Organisation des Nations Unies pour l’alimentation et l’agriculture aucune prise de position quant au statut juridique des pays, territoires, villes ou zones, ou de leurs autorités, ni quant au tracé de leurs frontières ou limites. Las denominaciones empleadas en esta publicación y la forma en que aparecen presentados los datos que contiene no implican de parte de la Organización de las Naciones Unidas para la Agricultura y la Alimentación juicio alguno sobre la condición jurídica de países, territorios, ciudades o zonas, o de sus autoridades, ni respecto de la delimitación de sus fronteras o límites. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Applications for such permission, with a statement of the purpose and the extent of the reproduction, should be addressed to the Director, Information Division, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00100 Rome, Italy. Tous droits réservés. Aucune partie de cette publication ne peut être reproduite, mise en mémoire dans un système de recherche documentaire ni transmise sous quelque forme ou par quelque procédé que ce soit: électronique, mécanique, par photocopie ou autre, sans autorisation préalable du détenteur des droits d’auteur.
[Show full text]
Pashmina Follicle Dynamics During Winter Months in Ladakh
Journal of Entomology and Zoology Studies 2018; 6(3): 748-751 E-ISSN: 2320-7078 P-ISSN: 2349-6800 Pashmina follicle dynamics during winter months JEZS 2018; 6(3): 748-751 © 2018 JEZS in Ladakh Received: 13-03-2018 Accepted: 14-04-2018 ZI Bhat, NA Ganai, MS Mir, MS Kawoosa, U Amin, AH Sofi, S Shanaz ZI Bhat Division of Animal Genetics and and FD Sheikh Breeding, Faculty of Veterinary Sciences and Animal Husbandry, Shuhama SKUAST-Kashmir, Abstract Jammu and Kashmir, India The experiment was conducted to study the changes in follicle diameter of pashmina fibre during winter months of Ladakh. Skin biopsies were taken from six Changthangi goats at monthly interval from NA Ganai November 2017 to February 2018. Routine histology followed by H&E staining revealed significant Division of Animal Genetics and Breeding, Faculty of Veterinary (p<0.05) variation in the pashmina follicle (PF) diameter during winter months (range = 26.580 to Sciences and Animal Husbandry, 103.278 µ). Average PF diameter during winters was found to be 60.474 ± 14.119 µ lower than other Shuhama SKUAST-Kashmir, cashmere goats and thus explains the fine quality of pashmina produced by Changthangi goat. The PF Jammu and Kashmir, India diameter was significantly larger in November (64.957 ± 15.838 µ, p<0.05) and showed a decreasing MS Mir trend in succeeding months. The study indicates that PF starts its growth phase before winters. PF Division of Veterinary Pathology, actually regressed after November arguably to conserve energy otherwise needed for pashmina growth Faculty of Veterinary Sciences and during the food scarcity period.
[Show full text]
Economics of Pashmina Based Trans-Humance Production System in Cold Arid Region of Jammu and Kashmir
Ind. Jn. of Agri. Econ. Vol. 64, No. 2, April-June 2009 Economics of Pashmina Based Trans-Humance Production System in Cold Arid Region of Jammu and Kashmir S.A. Wani, M.H. Wani and Shoaib Yusuf* I INTRODUCTION India has two recognised pashmina breeds1 Changthangi (Changra) and Chegu (Mishra et al., 1998). The breeding tract of pashmina goats2 is restricted to Nyoma and Durbuk blocks of Changthang sub-division of district Leh, in the cold arid region of Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir; cold desert of Spiti, Todd and Minnar Valley (Lahul and Spiti district); Hangrang Valley of Kinnaur district, Udeen and Sural in Pangi Valley (Chamba district) of Himachal Pradesh and higher belts of Uttar Kashi, Chamoli and Pithorgarh districts of Uttarakhand also produce pashmina. The altitude of pashmina belt ranges from 3000 m to 5000 m metres above sea level. The topography and climate of these areas suits pashmina production (Bhatt, 1992; Wani et al., 1995,Thakur et al., 2005) Changthangi with a population of 1,96,383 is native to high altitude areas (3700 to 4500m) in Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir reared by a pastoralist nomadic3 race ‘Changpas’ (LAHDC, 2006). Pashmina occupies a prime position among animal fibres for its firmness, warmth, durability, lightness, softness and ability to absorb dyes and moisture compared to mohair and/or wool for being free from medulation and crimps. Pashmina is highly valued fibre for manufacturing quality apparels. It is recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records is the costliest cloth in the world after trade ban of most precious natural fibre Shahtoosh (King of fibre) of small Tibetan Antelope known as Chiru.
[Show full text]
Hoofprints March 2019
A Publication of CGA. The Cashmere Goat Association Volume 28 Issue 1 March 2019 www.cashmeregoatassociation.org Message from the President This time we are just a whisper away from having With the database almost completed, and goats the database completed! This will give us the soon having the opportunity to be registered, we opportunity to have our goats listed in the need to make a formal vote on whether or not we database and to provide ongoing information to want the North American Cashmere Goat to be a CGA about the status of cashmere goats in North breed. While some may have assumed that we are America. Not only their status, but also how many indeed already a breed, there has not been a there are, and how incredibly beautiful they are, formal vote, and there are differing opinions on with excellent cashmere! the issue. There are a few letters from members stating their opinions and why they feel/think the This is the time of year when I begin combing, as a way they do. They will make for interesting, few goats are starting to shed. Every year I try thoughtful reading. some new combing techniques and tools. Let us And the best to you for an excellent year, know of any tools and/or techniques that you have found useful. I also start to wonder just who is Wendy Pieh, President pregnant, sneaking up on them to check and feel if any udder is developing. They don’t always appreciate that! I am finding myself continually amazed by this Inside This Issue: organization.
[Show full text]
Animal Science Reporter (E-Edition), Vol. 11, Issue 1, January 2018
Animal Science Reporter (e-edition), Vol. 11, Issue 1, January 2018 LEAD PAPER PASHMINA GOATS OF INDIA: CURRENT RESEARCH SCENARIO ON THEIR PRODUCTION CHARACTERIZATION AND EXPLORATION OF DEVELOPMENTAL STRATEGIES WITH FOCUS ON GENETIC IMPROVEMENT 1 2 Cheghu F.D. Sheikh , A.S. Ganai ABSTRACT Gaddi India’s indomitable heritage is possession of a special kind of goat in high altitude Himalayan coldKaghani arid region that produces pashmina (cashmere), which is fine, tough, warm and soft, and is known as ‘soft gold’ in the kashmiri lexicon. It is the most of sought after fibre of Changthangi animal origin in the world, and is used for fabrication of garments, which are much costlier thanTibetan any other fabric. Its annual production is mere 40 tonnes, which is less than 1% of the total world pashmina production. But, it is the best in the world with respect to quality, judged by its length, diameter and colour. Its production is restrained due to its smaller body size, low production potential, tough habitation with ambient temperature hovering between - 400 and 40 0C, sustenance on lean forage coupled with wearisome harvesting, processing, and fabrication procedures by local artisans, although it has the potentiality of transforming the economy of the rural goat breeders of the region from penury to prosperity. This paper after assessing the ground realities has explored different developmental avenues pertaining to breeding, nutrition, pasture, and health management aspects for improving pashmina yield and quality. The genetic parameters of pashmina yield and quality traits envisage genetic improvement of Changthangi goats through selection rather than by crossing with the mohair producing Angora, which is contemplated as a quick device to improve fibre yield in goats, but will ultimately decimate the genetic base of Changthangi goats in its habitat.
[Show full text]
Changpa Community - an Overview of the Tribe
Changpa Community - An Overview of the Tribe The Changpa are semi-nomadic Tibetan people. They are mainly found in the Changtang, a high plateau that stretches across the cold desert of Ladakh and also in some parts of Jammu and Kashmir. People from this tribe lived in the western regions of the various autonomous Tibetan regions but were then forced by China to move out. The military tensions between India and China caused major disruptions in the life of tribal people of Changpa whose major occupation is rearing of Pashmina goats which are found on high altitudes. The intrusion of the Chinese army in areas of Chumur and Demchok since January 2020 has cut a large part of this tribe off their summer pastures. About the Changpa Community ● The Changpa people mainly live in the Changtang in Ladakh which is a high-altitude plateau that stretches 1,600 kilometres from southeastern Ladakh in India to northwestern Tibet in China ● Due to the high altitude, the region is cold during summers with occasional snowfall and winters are extremely cold to work. Thus, maximum rearing is done during the summer season ● The tribe mainly earns their livelihood through the rearing of Pashmina goats and also own yaks and sheeps ● They trade the Pashmina wool in return for rice, grains and other basic necessities ● The Changpa speak Changskhat, a dialect of Tibetan, and practice Tibetan Buddhism ● Among the Changpa tribe, people are further divided into two other groups, namely, Phalpa and Fangpa What is Changthangi? ● The Changthangi or Ladakh Pashmina is
[Show full text]
Physical Properties of Pashmina Fiber – a Review
Vol.2 No.3 Jan-Mar 2015 ISSN : 2321-6387 Physical Properties of Pashmina Fiber – A Review Nazir A. Bumla 1, Maria A 2, Sarfaraz A Wani 3 and Showkeen M Bashir 4 1Junior Scientist / Subject matter specialist (Animal Science) KVK-Kargil, SKUAST-Kashmir 2Guest lecturer, Division of Veterinary Parasitology, F.V.Sc. & A.H., Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir 3Dean F.V.Sc & A.H,F.V.Sc. & A.H., Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir, India-190 006. 4Assistant Professor Division of Veterinary Biochmestry, F.V.Sc. & A.H., Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir, India-190 006 Introduction (4500meter) and above, where temperature Pashmina is known as the “Soft rarely dips to -40 0C in winter. To survive gold of high asia” . Pashmina fiber has the the freezing environment, nature has unique position among the fiber of animal blessed them with a very fine coat of hair origin because of its warmth, lightness, which is having best insulation in the handle and its ability to absorb dyes and world and is six times finer then human moisture compared to wool and Mohair hair and most luxurious fiber which is (Ryder, 1987). much softer then superfine merino of the Pashmina, the finest cashmere fiber same diameter. has been popular from centuries among royalties and other elites as it is the finest, Physical Charecteristics most luxurious fiber in the world Fiber Length and Diameter commanding the highest price in the world Fiber length is the distance from of textile. Pashmina derived its name from root of the fiber up to the tip of it and the Persian word “pashm” which means diameter of the fiber represents its “soft gold” .
[Show full text]
Skin Transcriptome Profiling of Changthangi Goats Highlights The
www.nature.com/scientificreports OPEN Skin transcriptome profling of Changthangi goats highlights the relevance of genes involved in Pashmina production Sonika Ahlawat1*, Reena Arora1, Rekha Sharma1, Upasna Sharma1, Mandeep Kaur1, Ashish Kumar1, Karan Veer Singh1, Manoj Kumar Singh2 & Ramesh Kumar Vijh1 Pashmina, the world’s fnest natural fber is derived from secondary hair follicles of Changthangi goats which are domesticated in Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir by nomadic pastoralists. Complex epithelial-mesenchymal interactions involving numerous signal molecules and signaling pathways govern hair follicle morphogenesis and mitosis across diferent species. The present study involved transcriptome profling of skin from fber type Changthangi goats and meat type Barbari goats to unravel gene networks and metabolic pathways that might contribute to Pashmina development. In Changthangi goats, 525 genes were expressed at signifcantly higher levels and 54 at signifcantly lower levels with fold change >2 (padj < 0.05). Functional annotation and enrichment analysis identifed signifcantly enriched pathways to be formation of the cornifed envelope, keratinization and developmental biology. Expression of genes for keratins (KRTs) and keratin-associated proteins (KRTAPs) was observed to be much higher in Changthangi goats. A host of transcriptional regulator genes for hair follicle keratin synthesis such as GPRC5D, PADI3, HOXC13, FOXN1, LEF1 and ELF5 showed higher transcript abundance in Pashmina producing goats. Positive regulation of Wnt signaling pathway and negative regulation of Oncostatin M signaling pathway may be speculated to be important contributors to hair follicle development and hair shaft diferentiation in Changthangi goats. Tirty four registered breeds and many non-descript populations represent the diverse caprine genetic resources of India which inhabit four eco-zones viz.
[Show full text]
Annual Report-2019
वार्�क प्ररिवेदन ANNUAL REPORT 2019 भाकृअनुप-राष्ट्रीय डेर्री अनुसंधान संान (मान饍 विशिवि饍ालय) करनाल - 132 001 भारत ICAR-NATIONAL DAIRY RESEARCH INSTITUTE (Deemed University) Karnal - 132 001 India VISION Ensure availability of quality milk and milk products at affordable cost, MISSION livelihood security to the producer and profitability to the dairy sector through To serve the cause of dairying adoption of appropriate by developing quality human resource and suitable technologies and human technologies related to the resource development. production, processing and marketing of milk and milk products, and their dissemination for the benefit of dairy industry, farming community and the Nation. GOAL Provide R&D support towards generation and dissemination of knowledge towards improved national milch herd for milk MANDATE production enhancement, greater productivity of dairy industry and management aspects of the dairy profession leading to the social, economic and environmental • Research in the Areas of Dairy benefits to the Nation as well as Production, Processing and contributing towards manpower Marketing. development programmes. • Human Resource Development in Dairy Sector. • Dissemination of Innovative Dairy Technologies. वार्�क प्ररिवेदन - 2019 ANNUAL REPORT - 2019 भाकृअनुप-राष्ट्रीय डेर्री अनुसंधान संान (मान饍 विशिवि饍ालय) करनाल - 132 001 भारत ICAR-NATIONAL DAIRY RESEARCH INSTITUTE (Deemed University) Karnal - 132 001 India ICAR-NDRI Annual Report 2019 © All rights reserved 2020 Publisher & Patron Dr. M. S. Chauhan Director, NDRI Editorial Board Chief Editor Dr. Dheer Singh Acting Joint Director (Research) Editor Dr.
[Show full text]
Republic of Tajikistan Unlocking Pamirs
Date: 15 March 2010 REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN UNLOCKING PAMIRS’ DEVELOPMENT POTENTIAL PARTICIPATORY RURAL INVESTMENT PLANNING WORKSHOP REPORT FOOD AND AGRICULTURE ORGANIZATION OF THE UNITED NATIONS – ROME TECHNICAL COOPERATION DEPARTMENT INVESTMENT CENTRE DIVISION (TCI) Workshop report “Unlocking Pamirs’ Agricultural Development Potential“ ACRONYMS ACTED Agency for Technical Cooperation and Development ADB Asian Development Bank AKF Aga Khan Foundation CAWMP Community Agriculture and Watershed Management Project FAO Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations GBAO Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast GEF Global Environment Facility GTZ Deutsche Gesellschaft für Technische Zusammenarbeit IDOS Institutional Development and Organizational Strengthening IFAD International Fund for Agricultural Development IFI International Finance Institution JSDP Japanese Social Development Fund (administered by The World Bank) LRCSP Land Registration and Cadastre System for Sustainable Agriculture Project MoA Ministry of Agriculture MSDSP Mountain Societies Development Support Program PALM Pamir –Alai Sustainable Land Management UCA University of Central Asia WB The World Bank Disclaimer The designations employed and the presentation of material in this information product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. The mention of specific companies or products of manufacturers, whether or not these have been patented, does not imply that these have been endorsed or recommended by FAO in preference to others of a similar nature that are not mentioned. The views expressed in this information product are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views of FAO.
[Show full text]