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Underground Guide Underground ! Kauai ‘A Must 18 th edition More than for Visitors!’ – Honolulu Star-Bulletin & Advertiser Guide Underground 225,000 books‘I don’t sold trust most travel guides, but I soon came to appreciate your wonderful insights and trustworthy evaluations. Underground Guide You never led us astray. Thanks for being a great traveling companion.’ – BV, Los Angeles ‘Your book made the difference between a good vacation and a great Hawaiian experience.’ – CP, San Francisco, CA ‘I’ve read all the guidebooks, and this one is by far my favorite!’ – RE, Olympia WA ‘Your book was a wonder. With you as our guide, we never had an unhappy experience.’– CM, New York, NY Lenore & MirahHorowitz ‘You made us feel like we were part of this island’s family.’ – CS, Milwaukie, OR ‘It made Kauai my favorite island!’ ‘a treasure’ – CM, New York, NY – Chicago Sun-Times ‘Everything you need’ ‘the bible for Kauai’ – Hawaii Magazine – Travel + Leisure ‘a must for exploring’ – Seattle Post-Intelligencer ‘a classic’ – Honolulu Star-Bulletin & Advertiser $14.95 Profits from this book help children on Kauai Lenore & Mirah Horowitz “Our passport to Kauai!” – LB, Durango, CO San Francisco Chronicle: Los Angeles Times: “An incredible source of “ Our vacation became an information about …what adventure the day we tourist traps to avoid and discovered the Kauai where to find the best values.” Underground Guide!” Los Angeles Times: Seattle Post Intelligencer: “ …filled with information “ I can’t imagine riding around on beaches, restaurants and the island without this book things to do and see. Lenore resting on the dash of my Horowitz’s love for Kauai rental car.” comes through in her writing.” San Francisco Chronicle: Vancouver Courier: “ Our constant companion! “ A little gem of a book that This book opened our eyes to each and every traveler should delights we would otherwise have in hand.” have missed.” TravelAge West: San Diego Union: “It’s a steal!” “ A downhome commentary on the best beaches, restau- rants, and activities...” “ the best investment I made!” – GM, Freeport, TX “ It’s like having our own tour “ the most helpful of all the guides!” guide” – JH, Hartford, CT – MC, Sunnyvale, CA “ the kind of guidebook you look for “ I found beautiful beaches that – but almost never find” showed me what Hawaii was – AW, Palo Alto, CA like years ago.”– DC, Coos Bay, OR “ A fabulous book! We saw “ You’ve been our valued places we’ve ignored because companion, through your book, on we didn’t know they existed.” all our trips since 1988.” – EW, Milwaukie, OR – TM, El Cerito, CA ‘The bible for Kauai’ – Travel + Leisure ‘Everything you need to know’ – Hawaii Magazine ‘Distinctive, thorough, & helpful!’ – Jeff Phillips, Senior Travel Writer, Sunset Magazine Hanalei Kalihiwai Na Pali Bay Bay Kilauea Coast Princeville Bay Ha’ena 560 Kilauea Moloa’a Hanalei Bay 56 K u h Anahola io H w y Polihale State Koke’e Hanalei Kalihiwai Park State Na Pali Bay Bay Kilauea Kapa’a Park Coast KauaiPrinceville Bay Ha’ena 560 Kilauea 581 Mount Moloa’a WailealeHanalei Bay Barking Waimea Wailua56 Sands Canyon 580 K u h Anahola io H Hanama’ulu w 50 550 y Polihale 583 State Koke’e Park State Kapa’a Park Kauai 51 Kekaha 581 Mount Waileale li’i Hwy 50 Lihue Lihue Barking WaimeaWaimea ua Wailua Airport Sands Canyon um a 580 Kalapaki K Puhi Bay Eleele Kalaheo Hanama’uluKipu 50 550 Hanapepe 530 Kai Koloa 583 Port 520 Poipu Kekaha Allen 51 li’i Hwy 50 Lihue Lihue Waimea ua Airport um a Kalapaki K Puhi Bay Eleele Kalaheo Hanapepe Kipu 530 Koloa Kai Port 520 Poipu Allen Kauai Ni‘ihau Kauai Ni‘ihau Oahu Molokai Oahu Molokai Lanai Maui Lanai KahoolaweMaui Kahoolawe HawaiiHawaii Kauai Underground Guide Lenore & Mirah Horowitz Papaloa Press 18th edition © 2008 by Papaloa Press, a Division of LCH Enterprises Inc. First edition: 1980 Second edition: 1981 Third Edition: 1982 Fourth edition: 1983 Fifth edition: 1984 Sixth edition: 1985 Seventh edition: 1986 Eighth edition: 1987 Ninth edition: 1988 Tenth edition: 1989 Eleventh edition: 1990 Twelfth edition: 1992 Thirteenth edition: 1995 Fourteenth edition: 1996 2nd printing 1997 Fifteenth edition: 1998 Sixteenth edition: 2000 2nd printing 2002 3rd printing 2003 Seventeenth edition 2004 Eighteenth edition June, 2007 September, 2008 All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright conventions. ISBN-13: 978-0-9745956-1-0 ISBN-10: 0-9745956-1-6 ISSN 1045-1358 Library of Congress Catalog card 82-643643 Original Line Drawings by Lauren, Mirah, Jeremy, & Mike Horowitz, Devon Davey & Tara French Historic Petroglyph Drawings by Likeke R. McBride Photographs by Lenore W. Horowitz Special thanks to Jeremy, Mike, Lauren, & Larry for their help with the research, writing, and design of this 18th edition & mahalo nui loa to Keali‘i & Fred & special thanks to Andy, Peter, Rockie, Marvis, Megan, John Edmark & his Design Class at Stanford University and in fond remembrance of John Akana Printed in Canada by Kromar Printing, Winnipeg, Canada Contents Definitely don’t miss on Kauai, 8 Planning your ideal Kauai vacation Where to stay: location, location, & location, 11 The North Shore, 12 The South Shore, 13 The Eastside, 16 The Westside, 18 Finding Home Base: hotels, condos & homes, 18 Beachfront & Oceanfront: the truth & the lingo, 18 Renting Condos and Homes, 18 Renting Bed & Breakfasts, 19 Renting Rustic, 20 Getting there, 20 What to Pack – how not to lose it, 20 Flying to Kauai: it’s all in your connections, 21 Traveling with Kids, 22 Tips for Visitors with Disabilities, 23 Getting Around: It’s a two–lane lifestyle, 24 Managing Kauai’s Weather: chasing the sun, 26 Beach Access, 62 Beach Safety, 80 Beware the Hawaiian Sun, 82 Exploring Kauai Eastside Beach Adventures, 27 Eastside Best Bets, 28 Favorite Eastside Beaches, 31 Great days on the Eastside, 32 Eastside ins & outs, 32 Eastside Beaches, 34 North Shore Beach Adventures, 41 North Shore Best Bets, 42 North Shore ins & outs, 44 Favorite North Shore Beaches, 45 Great Days on the North Shore, 46 North Shore Beaches, 46 South Shore Beach Adventures, 63 South Shore Best Bets, 64 South Shore ins & outs, 66 Favorite South Shore Beaches, 66 Great Days on the South Shore, 66 South Shore Beaches, 66 Westside Beach Adventures, 73 Westside Best Bets, 72 Westside ins & outs, 74 Favorite Westside Beaches, 74 Great Days on the Westside, 75 Westside Beaches, 75 Adventures & Discoveries, 83 ATV, 84 Artists & Artisans, 84 Beachwalking & Running, 85 Bikes & Motorcycles, 85 Boat Tours, 86 Botanical Tours, 91 Camping, 92 Churches & Temples, 93 Coffee & Espresso Cafés, 94 Family Beaches, 94 Family Fun, 95 Farmers’ Markets, 96 Fitness & Athletic Clubs, 100 Fresh Island Fish, 100 Flowers & Flower Leis, 101 Geocaching, 102 Golf Courses, 103 Kauai’s Golf Magic by Robert Trent Jones, Jr, 105 Hawaiian Words, 62 Helicoptering Kauai, 106 Helicopter Tours & Safety, 108 Hiking, 112 Horseback Riding, 117 Ice Cream & Shave Ice, 118 Internet & Cyber Cafés, 118 Jewelry, 119 Kauai Gifts, 119 Kauai in the Movies, 188 Kayaking, 120 Kite Surfing, 122 Luaus, 122 Massage, Kauai Style, 123 Museums & History Tours, 123 Movie Tours, 125 Music, 126 Musicians of Kauai, 127 Natural History Tours, 128 Night Life, 128 Photographing Kauai, 128 Scuba, 130 Snorkeling, 132 Sport Fishing, 134 Sunset Watching & Sunset Drive to Hanalei, 135 Surfing & Body Boarding, 137 Sweets & Treats, 139 Tubing, 141 Waimea Canyon Drive to Koke‘e State Park, 141 Water Skiing, 142 Weddings on Kauai, 143 Windsurfing, 145 Yoga, 145 Zipline, 145 Restaurants, 147 Restaurants at a glance chart 148 - 151 Eastside Restaurants, 152 North Shore Restaurants, 192 South Shore Restaurants, 208 Westside Restaurants, 228 Vegetarian Adventures, 189 Cheap Eats & ‘Local Grinds’, 190 Kauai Underground Guide Campaign for Kids, 238 8 Planning Definitely Don’t Miss on Kauai! * Discover our favorite north shore beaches: Hanalei Bay for incredible beachwalks, calm summertime swimming, and challenging winter surf breaks; Kalihiwai for family fun, with firm, level sand perfect for running, and river kayaking (in summer, you can kayak in the bay itself); Secret Beach for quiet seclusion, accessible only down a cliffside trail; Larsen’s for lazy afternoons of beachcombing; or Tunnels for amazing snorkeling, best in summer or on calm winter days. * Drive to the end of the road on the north shore. From Hanalei to Ha‘ena and then on to Ke‘e Beach, you will wind along a narrow road, at times crossing one lane bridges, at times hugging the cliff, or perched next to the sea. At road’s end, Ke’e Beach is a great spot for summertime snorkeling, and is also the trailhead for the Kalalau trail. * Tour the Na Pali Coast. This spectacular wilderness area is one of the most beautiful places in the world – huge waves crash against jagged cliffs, and waterfalls plunge into the cobalt sea. See the whole Na Pali coast either by boat or helicopter. One gives you a bird’s eye view; the other takes you up close into sea caves and under sparkling waterfalls. If possible, try both. * Hike the Kalalau Trail even if only for the first quarter mile. Experience the amazing Na Pali cliffs from a narrow footpath winding through tropical trees and streams along the coastline. Seasoned hikers can forge ahead to Hanakapi‘ai Beach, Hanakapi‘ai Falls, or beyond. * Snorkel with Kauai’s fish: Poipu Beach on the south, Lydgate Park on the east, and on the north, Tunnels (best in summer or calm winter days) and Ke‘e Beach (summer only). Or try scuba diving. Gregg Winston at Waters- ports Adventures, an excellent scuba teacher and pro guide, can coax even the most timid first-timers into the water and on to adventure.
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