November 14 - 27, 2008 Issue No. 4

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BUSINESS Kosovo Rejection Sparks Kosovo Businesses First Crisis with EU Dogged by Corruption Refusal to accept deal on deployment of EU police and justice mission marks first serious clash with Prishtina’s European allies. By Tim Judah in London page 6 osovo is teetering on the brink of crisis in CITY Kits relations with the European Union. The crisis New Look for an emerged after Kosovo’s gov- ernment, under Prime Old Beauty Minister Hashim Thaci, rejected a deal between the EU, the UN and Serbia, which would have paved the way for the full deployment of EULEX, the EU’s police and justice mission. Up until last week, the princi- pal problem blocking EULEX’s deployment had been resistance page 8 by Serbia to its deployment in Serb-controlled areas of north- ern Kosovo. GUIDE Now, however, a six-point plan has been agreed between the EU, The Alpine Lakes of the UN and Serbia. This foresees Kosovo that some of the revenues from the two customs points in the northern Kosovo will stay in the north, while in the Serbian areas the local police will remain “under the existing chain of command.” What this means is that the government of Kosovo will not be entirely sovereign over the page 12 whole of Kosovo, and thus the agreement contains a “de facto” recognition of the situation on FOOD & DRINK the ground. Free Your Mind at It is this stark reality which has provoked the Kosovar rejec- Tingell Tangell tion plus the fact that the gov- ernment of Thaci now feels photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by photo under pressure from opposition Kosovo’s leaders say ‘No’ - but can they maintain their position? parties not to be seen to be giv- ing in to what they believe to be Brussels, there was a mood of now it is in their best interests to Following months of negotia- Serbian moves to consolidate anger amongst EU officials deal- let EULEX deploy across the tions, a deal was struck on power in areas under their de ing with Kosovo. “It is disingenu- whole country.” November 7 between the EU, the facto authority. ous of the Kosovars to claim now Meanwhile, a senior Serbian UN and the Serbian authorities Kosovo’s leadership says the that they did not know what was source said; “We are not ready to on deploying the EU police and six-point plan breaches Kosovo’s going on,” one senior EU source change the deal in any way,” judges across the whole of page 11 sovereignty, territorial integrity in Brussels said. At every stage adding that any attempts to do so Kosovo. and constitution. of the negotiations, Prishtina “might have grave conse- continued on page 5 NEIGHBOURHOOD According to one source in was kept fully informed “and quences.” Europe Ponders New Investigation Real Estate Strategy for Bosnia Doctors Milk Global Financial State Hospitals Crisis Hits Kosovo for Private Gain Real Estate An undercover investigation reveals Kosovo’s real estate industry has how doctors blatantly abuse jobs in state begun to feel the effects of the global health service to recruit clients for their financial crisis, as housing demand experiences a steep decline. private clinics. page 9 page 7 page 17

is supported by: 2 • November 14 - 27, 2008 highlights Sejdiu Makes Key Albania Trip JOIN OUR TEAM! osovo’s President, Fatmir Sejdiu, vis- ited Albania in his first trip as head The BIRN Kosovo team is looking for proactive, motivated candidates with a Kof state to the country last week. President Sejdiu held talks with strong command of the English language to fill the following vacant positions: Albania’s President, Bamir Topi, on 1. Sales agent 2. Contributors areas of political, social, economic and educational cooperation. JOB SUMMARY: JOB SUMMARY: Both Presidents exchanged ideas on The Sales Agent is responsible for the sale Writers need to produce 300 - 1000 word European and NATO integration for the of newspaper advertising targeting the articles on topics of interest to the English- countries, regional cooperation and the

English-speaking community of Kosovo. speaking community of Kosovo future perspectives of Kosovo, reports Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo the office of the Albanian Presidency. and Prime Minister, Sali Berisha. ESSENTIAL FUNCTIONS: ESSENTIAL FUNCTIONS: An important point of discussion was Sejdiu was also proclaimed an also the progress in recognitions of Honorary Citizen of the town of Shkoder, • Build advertisement sales, business • Use words and pictures to inspire and Kosovo’s independence. in northern Albania. working directly with clients inform, open dialogues, and help people On his first day, Sejdiu addressed Along with his Albanian counterpart, • Promote Prishtina Insight as the top tackle everyday challenges President Sejdiu visited the construction news source in Kosovo • Address situations and opportunities Albania’s members of parliament while special meetings were held with the site where a road connecting Albania and • Work with Prishtina Insight management that are unique to Kosovo Kosovo is being built. to ensure that all ads running in the • Possess a positive voice and an interest Parliamentary speaker, Jozefina Topalli paper are appropriate/approved in Kosovo

REQUIREMENTS: REQUIREMENTS: Kosovo Ups Budget by 15% osovo’s first independently-com- • Extensive experience in sales • Must be willing to adhere to Prishtina piled budget for 2009 will be 1.43 • Excellent knowledge of English and Insight's guidelines, deadlines and quali- Kbillion euros, an increase of 15 Albanian languages ty standards. percent on 2008. Kosovo’s government set • Energetic, hard working, self starter • Experience in media is not mandatory the projected budget for the coming year. • Must have excellent verbal communica- but is an advantage Kosovo’s Prime Minister Hashim Thaci tion and writing skills • Photography skills a plus • A willingness to travel locally • Ability to write in English pledged this will open new opportunities for sustainable development. According to the budget, Kosovo aims To apply, please send a CV and a motivation letter to [email protected]. to maintain economic growth of 6 per- cent and increase capital investment by Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo 40 percent. Salary hikes of 10 percent for ing for local municipalities have all been civil servants: belt-tightening measures calculated into the new budget. for central institutions with 15 percent This is the first time Kosovo has com- cuts in spending for the President’s pletely independently compiled its budg- office, the Prime Minister’s office and et without the assistance of the United Advertise! Parliament and 10 percent cuts in spend- Nations Mission in Kosovo. Egypt ‘Weighing’ Kosovo Recognition gypt will very soon recognise Do you need to reach out to our readers: Kosovo’s independence, reports EAbdullah Al Eshal, Cairo’s former Influential decision makers, high-spending deputy foreign minister and counsel to President Hosni Mubarak. He said he is householders and foreign visitors. willing to send back to his home country a message of the new reality created in Kosovo, in order for Egypt not to post- pone the recognition of Kosovo’s inde-

pendence from Serbia. FoNet by Photo “I want to inform you that recognition round table entitled “Kosovo and Egypt,” from Egypt will come very soon, after said now is the time for Cairo and other If our target readers are your potential clients, being informed of your history and your Arab countries to recognise Kosovo’s efforts in state-building. Our country is independence, in order to facilitate its we can help you reach them reliably and willing to contribute to peace and stabili- European integration. ty in the region,” pledged Al Eshal in The conference was attended by an Prishtina last week. Egyptian delegation with the aim of regularly, using the language they speak. A prominent Albanian activist in informing them of the progress of Egypt, Beqir Ismaili, who organised the Kosovo state-building. NATO Chief Backs KSF

Call Prishtina Insight marketing at 038 24 33 58, ATO Secretary General Jaap de Hoop Scheffer said he backs the Ncreation of Kosovo’s Security or email us at [email protected] Force, which is to be formed after the dis- membering of Kosovo’s Protection Forces. to reserve space in our next issue. “Along with other NATO ambassadors, I am very pleased with the security in Kosovo, which continues to be stable,” he said. According to Scheffer, NATO will con- Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo tinue to be present in Kosovo in accor- dance with United Nations Security being looked at by the NATO alliance Council Resolution 1244, which regulated since “this is not our business.” the mandate of the UN administration He said maintaining security was a far and NATO peacekeepers after the 1998- more important issue. 1999 conflict between Serb forces and During his visit to Kosovo, Scheffer vis- Kosovo’s ethnic Albanian majority. ited NATO’s KFOR peacekeeping troops However, he added the issue of recog- and held various meetings with Kosovo’s nising Kosovo’s independence was not senior leaders. news • November 14 - 27, 2008 3 Thaci Maintains Surroi: Jo! Po! Stance on UN in “Kosovo’s Ndoshta! Kosovo reaction very By Krenar Gashi

delayed” o means no! This is the slo- gan of worldwide anti-rape Ncampaigns. Simple, clear, BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA concise; when you say no, you mean eton Surroi described Prisht ina’s obj e ction to the United no, and others should respect that. Nation’s proposed six point plan as very delayed and not But in the part of the world where Van entire refusal. we live, the Balkans, we’ve wit- “It was not completely refused. A few elements from these nessed people countless times – points were turned down. Such a stance appeared very late,” albeit in a different context - saying Surroi declared in an interview for Voice of America. “No” when they mean “Yes” and, Surroi affirmed that the basis of these discussions should especially, “Maybe.” have been refused months ago when the six point proposal was What did Kosovo’s President, first made. Fatmir Sejdiu, and the Prime “The release of these six points from the Secretary General Minister, Hashim Thaci, mean when of the UN occurred in June of this year,” he said. they said “No” to the UN-EU-Serbia Meanwhile, Surroi expressed that the deployment of the agreement on the deployment of the EULEX mission must not only be viewed as having to physical- EULEX mission, for example? I

photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by photo ly cover all of Kosovo, but must also inflict value. trust that they, and the rest of the “If the EULEX mission is deployed to develop two judicial Hashim Thaci political establishment, including systems in Kosovo, then this is not the right method of deploy- the opposition, really meant “No” in ment for Kosovo. If the EULEX mission is deployed to fulfill the BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA this instance. Why? Because this demand of another which does not meet the basic demands of osovo’s Prime Minister on Wednesday maintained his position Kosovo, then this is also not a qualitative deployment,” he agreement, based on the draft state- that his government cannot accept the six-point plan for the declared. ment of the UN Secretary General Kfuture of the UN Mission in Kosovo. that Prishtina Insight has seen, con- Surroi also asserted that the deployment of the EULEX mis- After a meeting of the Parliamentary Group of his Kosovo sion should fit in within the facets of Kosovo’s Constitution, a cerns many issues that directly Democratic Party, Thaci said Prishtina cannot make concessions in condition that was specified with the acceptance of Martti affect Kosovo’s statehood, as well as order to accommodate the plan and said his government will not yield Ahtisaari’s package. making the transition from UNMIK to pressure. to EULEX and our government a “There will be no pressures on Prishtina. Belgrade’s dreams of never-ending process. interfering in Kosovo’s sovereignty were ruined on February 17, with In all frankness, I suspect that the declaration of independence,” he said. this particular “No” is about to soft- Thaci made these comments after the UN, US and EU all appealed to en. I strongly believe that this the Kosovo government to show greater flexibility. An agreement on apparent rejection by the Kosovars the future role of the UN in Kosovo will pave the way for the deploy- is a tactic aimed at providing them ment of the EU’s Rule of Law Mission, EULEX. with more room for manoeuvre as In an interview with the Prishtina daily Koha Ditore, the EU’s pressures from the international Special Representative to Kosovo, Pieter Feith, sought to reassure community increase. readers that Kosovo is not being excluded from discussions over the However, these same pressures future role of the UN and EULEX, and that negotiations are still tak- merely add to the confusion. The ing place. other day, the Americans, for exam- He said there will be no pressure on Prishtina and pointed out that ple, claimed that the agreement was Kosovo has independently signalled a desire to continue dialogue. not bad for Kosovo. At the same While some Kosovars had hoped that EULEX would deploy without time, European diplomats told me

the approval of the UN Security Council, Feith implied that a UN Insight Prishtina Gashi for Krenar by photo that it was the Americans who were Security Council agreement is necessary for EULEX’s deployment. Veton Surroi behind the Kosovars’ rejection of the agreement. So, when Americans said “Yes,” perhaps they meant “No” or at least “Maybe?” Or perhaps the European diplo- mats just didn’t like the idea of the Pack Expects EULEX US interfering again in the deploy- ment of the EU-led mission. This is how politicians raise the level of confusion and at the same time set Deployment in December the news agenda. This is also why this edition’s cover story of BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA the European Parliament, said in an inter- Kosovo and fulfil the objectives that we Prishtina Insight might not apply to ULEX is not neutral since it sides view broadcast today. have set, since the issue of taxpayers’ the situation as it exists next week. with the citizens that live in Kosovo, In the interview for Radio Free money is also in question,” she said. No! Yes! Maybe! This is the title of EDoris Pack, head of the Europe, Pack explained that problems Pack explained that EULEX is not in this editorial in Albanian. It’s how Commission for the Western Balkans in concerning the acceptance of the EULEX Kosovo to accept or not accept the coun- life in Kosovo looks these days. Just mission boil down to the facts that Serbs try’s independence, since every country when we thought the big issues con- living in Kosovo are very attentive to has the right to decide that individually. cerning Kosovo’s status were off of Belgrade, and that UN Security Council She said she believed that discussions the news agenda, we were proven Resolution 1244, affirming the UN admin- will be concluded by the end of wrong. istration of Kosovo, is still in effect. November and full deployment of the Journalists in Kosovo cannot “In this context, we must find a bridge EULEX mission will be complete by focus and properly do their job, between the reality of Kosovo’s inde- December. which is to tell the public what’s pendence and the objectives of Earlier this week, Prishtina officials going on. Many problematic issues Resolution 1244. However, I am confident turned down the six-point plan proposed in society have been pushed aside in that the Albanians of Kosovo and the by UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, a deference to our primary goal of Serbs in Belgrade behave in a construc- proposal strongly supported by Belgrade. independence, and this trend seems tive fashion,” she said. Mediated dialogue on the transition set to continue. In Kosovo politics, Pack confirmed that discussions are from the UN mission to EULEX contin- the immediate outlook remains ongoing, and that EULEX’s aim is full ues between Kosovo and Serbia. Kosovo uncertain. And the uncertainty territorial deployment throughout declared independence in February of springs precisely from the use of Kosovo. this year, and has since been recognized the statements no, yes and maybe. Doris Pack “EULEX has to be deployed all over by 22 out of the 27 EU member states. 4 • November 14 - 27, 2008 politics EU Urges the Balkans UK Foreign To Fight Corruption Minister

ernment of Kosovo will discuss the report further in a special Hopeful for meeting and at the annual meet- ing on the Stability and Association Process which will be held on December 2 and will Kosovo include top officials from the European Commission. “I express appreciation to the compilers of this report and for the contribution of the institu- tions of Kosovo, civil society and international structures, having in mind that we will remain part- ners in further engagements.” Thaci believes that this report provides Kosovo with an oppor- tunity to achieve European inte- gration and to develop the capac- ity to achieve the criteria for EU European Commission membership. Kosovo was represented by the BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA Bosnia, Serbia, and Montenegro Minister of Justice, Nekibe he European Union asked at the summit of ministers in Kelm endi, and Minister of the the countries of the Zagreb, Croatia. Kosovo’s Prime Interior Zenun Pajaziti.

Minister, Hashim Thaci, respond- Insight Prishtina Gashi for Krenar by photo TBalkans to fight corruption The latest report published by ed to the European Commission’s David Miliband and organised crime if they want the European Commission on Progr ess Report on Thursday. He to be part of the EU. “Progress Kosovo points out the necessity declared it realistic and added has been made throughout the to fight against corruption and BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA and claimed Kosovo’s foreign pol- that its recommendations will be region. Yet, special attention ritish Foreign Secretary icy should follow European val- “guided and implemented by the organised crime. should be given to the war against Da vid Miliband said ues. institutions of Kosovo.” “The “It is the goal of Kosovo to corruption and organised crime,” become a functional and demo- BKosovo is becoming a bet- “You have to build bridges of progress report was analyzed communication with your neigh- said the Vice-President of the cratic state, built on the founda- ter place for all living there and with care and is accepted as an bours, including Serbia,” he European Commission for tions of the criteria for pledged strong commitment to accurate evaluation concerning urged. Justice, Freedom and Security, European Union membership, the EU’s new law-and-order mis- the conditions in Kosovo in the On the other hand, moderating Jacques Barrot. and to become a competitive and sion, EULEX. period October 2007 to October a debate between Kosovo Alban- The appeal was made to 2008,” declared Thaci. worthy candidate for member- “Your Constitution clearly rev - ians and Serbs in Caglavica, Mil- Kosovo, Albania, Macedonia, Thaci announced that the gov- ship,” states Thaci. eals that all communities should live together in the newest coun- iband declared that there is no try. The fact that your Parliament such thing as a perfect society. is home to deputies other than “There is no such thing as a Albanian is an indication of this perfect society. Therefore, there fact,” said Miliband in an is always something to discuss Thaci Calls Serbs to address to Kosovo’s Parli ament. and think about,” Miliband told While Miliband acknowledged political representatives and stu- that Kosovo faces great responsi- dents at the debate, entitled ‘How bilities and challenges in build- Kosovo communities can live bet- Return to Kosovo ing its future, he revealed that ter.’ Kosovo is not alone. Kosovo publisher and politi- “You are not alone. The inter- cian, Veton Surroi, said, howev- used the opportunity of the sign- national community is here to er; “there is a huge interethnic ing ceremony to call on these help you. EULEX will be func- misbalance in Kosovo.” people to return. tional all over Kosovo in order to “Nine years of separated life “Kosovo has all the conditions build a good future for Kosovo’s and violence brought us here. I for normal life,” he said. “Our citizens,” he pledged. don’t believe in easy ways to past was bitter, but we have to Me a n while Miliband advised overcome this problem, so we look to the future, and our people Kosovo to cooperate with the Int- will probably live in parallel soci- are ready to overcome all obsta- ernational Monetary Fund and to eties,” said Surroi. cles before us.” consolidate its budget, which he Vice-president of the Graca- He said his Government is said will bring economic develop- nica enclave-based Serb National fighting discrimination and ment. Council, Rada Trajkovic, said wants to include all Kosovo com- “The rule of law and the fight that the younger generation in munities “because it is very against the corruption is to Kosovo, as opposed to their par- important that all people are enhance foreign investment in ents and grandparents who lived treated equally.” your country,” he argued. together before the 1999 conflict, Minister for Returns and “This is your state. You have to do not speak the language of the Communities Sasa Rasic said, work for it and there is no alter- other community. “this is the biggest program for native way of governing “We have to learn again to photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by photo Kosovo,” said Miliband. speak the languages, or find a Hashim Thaci Serb returns to Kosovo since our ministry was established.” Rasic Talking about the recognitions third one (for communication),” BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA Funds were allocated for a told Balkan Insight that the of Kosovo’s independence, Milib- said Trajkovic. ur past was bitter, but we ‘Returns and Reintegration budget would be spent on build- have to look to the future, Project’ aimed at preparing con- ing houses for returnee families OKosovo Premier Hashim ditions for the sustainable and for their reintegration into Thaci said in Prishtina on return of 180 Serb families to Kosovo society. these municipalities, mostly in Get Prishtina Insight Tuesday, calling on displaced “That means organizing inte- the southern and western part of rethnic dialogue between com- Serbs to return to the new coun- Kosovo. munities, and providing assis- delivered to your door! try. Some 250,000 Serbs left Kosovo tance for their economic sustain- United Nations Development after the 1999 conflict. Since that ability,” explained Rasic. Program chief for Kosovo Frode time, some displaced Serb fami- Sasa Rasic is one of two Serb 038 24 33 58 Mauring and Kosovo Minister lies have been living in poor con- ministers to serve in the Kosovo for Returns Sasa Rasic signed a ditions in so-called ‘collective Government since the proclama- [email protected] seven-million-dollar contract centres‘ in Serbia. tion of independence in Febr - with four Kosovo municipalities. Kosovo Premier Hashim Thaci uary. politics • November 14 - 27, 2008 5 Kaidanow: UN Plan in Kosovo’s Interest Balkan Insight, Prishtina Speaking to a daily newspaper he US Ambassador to in Prishtina, the US Ambassador Kosovo has said that the also guaranteed that the Tsix-point plan put forward Government of Kosovo will con- by the UN recently will benefit tinue to play an active part in the Kosovo. ”This plan will allow the negotiation process. Serbs of Kosovo to feel more Regarding the Kosovo govern- secure,” Tina Kaidanow said in ment’s initial refusal to accept an interview with Kosovo’s pub- the six-point plan, Kaidanow said lic television, RTK, adding that it this would not affect Kosovo’s will only bring gains for the new- partnership with the internation- born country. al community. According to Kaidanow, one com- ”The President and Prime ponent of the six-point plan Minister worked in a very con- involves appointing a senior Serb structive way with us and with official within the command their European colleagues and I structure of Kosovo’s police force am sure that this cooperation will as a means of ensuring Serb par- continue,” she said. ticipation in law enforcement. Kaidanow said the government ”It ensures that the Serbian popu- viewed some elements of the plan Kosovo Rejection Sparks lation accomplishes something as acceptable. beneficial for Kosovo,” she said. ”We respect that, and hope to Kaidanow added that it is the goal find more support which will of the European Union and the US allow them to express more sup- First Crisis with EU to have EULEX deployed across port for the elements of this the entire territory of Kosovo plan, and I believe that they cer- Refusal to accept deal on deployment of EU police and justice mission marks first seri- with the full support of the UN, as tainly agree that what is impor- ous clash with Prishtina’s European allies. this ”is for the good of Kosovo, tant now is the full deployment and will move Kosovo in the right of EULEX in Kosovo,” said from page 1 While the US has backed the deal Prishtina, lest Belgrade then also direction towards the EU.” Kaidanow. in public, sources say the reject the deal. “It is a question This was to have been Americans’ support for their of dressing the Christmas tree,” endorsed at the Security Council European counterparts is luke- said one diplomatic source, “but on November 11. Objections by warm in private. in such a way as to make sure it the government of Kosovo have In the wake of Kosovo’s rejec- does not topple over.” now led to the cancellation of tion of the deal, diplomats have A senior Serbian source said the session. launched a fresh bout of activity that any exchange of letters Asked whether the mission to break the deadlock. between Solana and the Kosovo would now deploy in Kosovo at According to one European authorities risked putting all, the same EU source in diplomatic source, negotiations Serbian agreement to the deal in Brussels said: “I don’t know.” are taking place that will allow question. “That could bring it all However, if the mission indeed the government in Prishtina to into jeopardy,” he said. fails to deploy on account of the accept the deal after a possible But a source close to the gov- objections from the Kosovo gov- exchange of letters with Javier ernment in Prishtina reiterated ernment, this would lead to a Solana, the EU foreign policy that they “will not accept any- major deterioration in relations supremo. thing that endangers a united between Kosovo, which declared The thinking is not that the Kosovo in terms of police, jus- independence on February 17 in six-point plan, which covers tice or customs.” an act harshly opposed by policing, customs, transport and Lulzim Peci, head of KIPRED, Serbian government, and the infrastructure, boundaries and Kosovo’s leading think-tank, European Union. Serbian holy sites, will be said the EU had tended to take All 27 members of the EU have changed but that Solana’s letter the Kosovars for granted, and in backed EULEX, although five of or statement could reassure consequence, “we are entering a these are countries that do not Kosovo that while EULEX crisis.” Others were not so sure, recognise Kosovo’s statehood. would, in effect, be operating in though. One senior Kosovo gov- EULEX is set to be a flagship different ways in different parts ernment source said Kosovo EU mission, with some 1,900 of Kosovo, this would not might lift its objections to the police, judges and other staff. amount to a question mark over deal next week. Most will come from EU coun- its territorial integrity. tries, although Americans and The problem, according to Tim Judah, a leading Balkan others will be involved. diplomatic sources, is that since commentator, is the author of Until now, however, the mis- Serbia has agreed to the six-point Kosovo: What Everyone Needs to sion has been plagued with plan, European diplomats must Know, published by Oxford logistical and political problems. not give too much away to University Press. Vetevendosje Fiercely against UN plan

BALKAN INSIGHT, PRISHTINA of Law Mission to the country. servility to Western ambassadors he leader of Kosovo’s They say it interferes in the in the country. Vetëvendosje (Self-determi- country’s sovereignty and is but “We shall not define our own Tnation) movement, Albin another attempt by Serbia to split interests by ambassador’s decla- Kurti, urged Kosovo’s leaders to the country. rations. Tina Kaidanow is not a categorically oppose a plan that “Kosovo has its own constitu- priest as she is not an imam. She will regulate the future work of tion, therefore the police, the has her own interests and we the UN’s Kosovo mission. judiciary, border control, trans- have ours,” said Kurti, pointing Vetëvendosje activists say the port and cultural heritage are all out that Kosovo’s leaders should proposal, which Kosovo’s govern- internal matters for Kosovo,” bypass Kaidanow and reach out ment says it will reject, runs said Kurti. to the State Department. counter to the newly formed If the government ”caves into At the same time, Vetëvendosje state’s interests. pressure” and accepts the plan, urged Kosovo’s government to Kosovo’s senior leaders Kurti said his movement will put greater emphasis on main- announced that they will reject organise protests and demonstra- taining Kosovo’s territorial the plan that will regulate the tions. integrity and stimulating eco- future work of the UN Mission in Kurti addressed considerable nomic development rather than Kosovo and hence pave the way for criticism towards Kosovo’s senior lobbying for Kosovo’s recognition the deployment of the EU’s Rule leaders for what he sees as their by other states. 6 • November 14 - 27, 2008 business Kosovo Businesses Dogged by Corruption As long as denouncing corruption is seen as betrayal rather than a patriotic act, the problem will become endemic in the commerce of the newborn country.

ed ethical practice of doing aging interest in change by business,” said Mimoza Kusari either of the parties. – Lila, the head of the chamber. Kushtrim Shaipi, the By Emira Ajeti The bribes and other corrupt report’s author, explained that in Prishtina practices were mostly related Kosovar businesses think that to public funding or publicly they can’t win contracts unless wo out of three Kosovo tendered projects, which usual- they bribe the tender makers. businesses have offered ly involve larger business, as But bribes are expensive, and a Tbribes to government offi- opposed to small businesses system free of corruption cials, according to a survey of which experience corruption would not include any such more than 500 firms in the coun- at the central level. costs. Keeping in mind that the try, conducted by the American The majority of respondents prime objective for a business- Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by photo Chamber of Commerce in who answered affirmatively to man is profit, Shaipi asked “they get rich overnight.” requires a long-term battle, Kosovo. having offered bribes “strongly everyone present at the confer- Hajredin Kuci, Kosovo’s though the first results are The data gathered during the believe that because of corrup- ence to consider; “Is it ethical Deputy Prime Minister, said encouraging. tion they have profited a great study, which involved 550 to work against your own inter- that “exposing corruption is a According to the report, deal,” the report reads. Kosovar businesses, 50 of ests?” patriotic act rather than an act around 20 percent of the cor- which were owned by Kosovo Moreover, when asked whether “Institutional officials are of betrayal, as it used to be ruption reported by the busi- Serbs, indicate that over 66% they thought they would have not showing the right disposi- considered.” nesses surveyed was conducted of respondents admitted to been awarded contracts and tion to respect the law nor the Memli Krasniqi, a spokesper- in the period following either directly or indirectly won tenders if they hadn’t willpower to fight corruption,” son for the Kosovo govern- Kosovo’s declaration of inde- offering bribes in the past. given bribes, 62 % categorical- said Hasan Preteni, the head ment, insisted that; “the gov- pendence, which might lead “Corruption is a serious ly rejected this possibility. of the Kosovo Anti-Corruption ernment has a strategy to fight one to think that the high threat to the normal operation According to the report, cor- Agency. He finds it very alarm- corruption,” and added that impact of corruption on of business in Kosovo, and rupt behaviour has become a ing that public money is being quite a lot of steps were taken Kosovar business is not going unless urgent action is under- mutually beneficial system for misused and diverted to indi- against corruption this year. to go away anytime soon, taken, this negative occur- both the business community vidual’s pockets, a process As Krasniqi explained, corrup- unless a multi-faceted anti-cor- rence could become the accept- and corrupt officials, discour- which is evident because; tion is a phenomenon that ruption fight is undertaken. Advertise! IMF: Albania Growth Slowing Down

Do you need to reach out to our readers: BALKAN INSIGHT,TIRANA he International Monetary Influential decision makers, high-spending Fund lowered its forecast Tfor Albania’s economic householders and foreign visitors. growth for 2009 to between 3.5 and 4 per cent from between 5 and 6 per cent, due to the turmoil that has hit global financial markets. “Albania’s still-limited integra- tion into global markets current- ly provides an important buffer, but the economy is not immune: If our target readers are your potential clients, export growth is expected to decline from recent heights, we can help you reach them reliably and regu- remittance payments could be affected, and investors may reassess risks,” the IMF said in a larly, using the language they speak. statement. “The mission recom- mends containing the 2009 deficit at below 4 per cent of GDP,” it added. However, the Minister of Finance, Ridvan Bode, rebuffed the forecast of the IMF, arguing Call Prishtina Insight marketing at 038 24 33 that growth will be on target. “We have forecast that economic 58, or email us at marketing@prishtinain- growth will be the same as in 2006, at six per cent, the strongest in the region,” said Bode. sight.com to reserve space in our next issue. The Albanian government has caused a storm by signaling that it will not renew its contract with the IMF next January. in the summer of 2009. after which Albanian institutions Opposition leaders have been IMF representatives have ann - will regain full independence and quick to accuse the Prime ou nced that they will remain if be free to decide on monetary and Minister, Sali Berisha, and the Tirana invites them to stay and if fiscal policies without prior Minister of Finance, Ridvan the government decides it is time advice. Bode, of arrogance and irrespon- to part ways, they would advise While the political blame game sibility. Albania to put tight fiscal rules in continues, some experts are They charge that the decision place to guide its economic poli- warning that an IMF departure not to renew the deal has political cies. next year would come at the undertones, and that the govern- The end of the IMF mission wrong time, because Albania’s ment wants to spend freely in the will spell the end of its monitor- financial institutions are not yet coming year to boost its image ing of the government’s macro- fully capable of withstanding before the country goes the polls economic and lending policies, political pressures. business • November 14 - 27, 2008 7

Real Estate The Global Financial Crisis Hits Kosovo’s Real Estate Industry Home sales are now declining in Kosovo because of the global financial crisis. amount of money. However, we kets, including two hundred have noticed an increase in the eighty million euros from the demand for one-bedroom apart- Kosovo Pension Savings Trust, By Lavdim Hamidi ments, particularly because of and three hundred eighty million in Prishtina the lower value,” explains Islam euros accumulated from privati- Ahmet, owner of the Labi real zation. The instability and losses osovo’s real estate indus- estate agency in Prishtina. incurred in those markets by try has begun to feel the Kosovo is not the only country Kosovars are contributing to Keffects of the global finan- to report decreases in demand for decreases in domestic real estate cial crisis, as housing demand homes, since the consequences of demand. experiences a steep decline. the financial crisis have spread to According to Sadiku, the glob- Currently, the purchase of a the majority of large markets al financial crisis will also affect house in Prishtina requires the around the world, including the the amount of goods and capital possession of a considerable United States. brought to our country by the amount of capital; from two hun- Besim Beqaj, Head of the Kosovar diaspora, which will be dred thousand to five hundred Kosovo Chamber of Commerce, smaller for this year than the thousand euros, or even more. explains that the consequences of expected amount of more than In contrast to the declining the global financial crisis also 400 million euros. demand for houses, real estate include decreases in investment, The diaspora have also invest- agencies report an increase in which in turn affects real estate. ed large amounts in real estate demand for one-bedroom apart- “In the absence of financial since 1999. ments. liquidity, sales of real estate fall. “There were instances when “The last couple of months However, the decrease in demand the diaspora purchased real illustrate a decrease in the pur- for real estate also causes a estate in Kosovo and offered it chasing demand for houses since decrease in prices, diminishing out for lease. But the global finan- people do not have the adequate the profits of building compa- cial crisis has minimized diaspo- nies, creating a chain-reaction ra demand for the purchase of effect,” said Beqaj. real estate,” said Sadiku. “There were instances Islam Ahmet states that a Ahmet, the owner of the Labi when the diaspora pur- decrease in demand for larger (3- real estate agency, explains that 4 bedrooms) Prishtina apart- because of the instability in the chased real estate in ments, which cost around one financial markets those who do Kosovo and offered it out hundred thousand euros, is also have savings are purchasing occurring. small apartments, which they for lease. But the global Mahamet Sadiku, vice-presi- choose to lease out after. financial crisis has dent of the Riinvest Institute for “There is demand among our minimized diaspora Development Research, said that clients for purchasing small the global financial crisis will, apartments, which they lease out demand for the purchase without a doubt, be felt in after. According to clients, it is of real estate.” Kosovo. better to invest in real estate dur- Sadiku explains that around ing this financial crisis, and lease one billion euros of Kosovar cap- out apartments to gain some

photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by photo Muhamet Sadiku, RIINVEST ital is invested in foreign mar- return,” said Ahmeti. Mining Giant Sandvik Opens Office in Kosovo Prishtina Insight, Prishtina duction, and that Sandvik can ably assist in he Swedish technology, mining and doing so. construction company Sandvik “Considering that key sectors for the Topened a new office in Kosovo. recovery of Kosovo’s economy are the utili- Thomas Soderqvist, President of Sandvik sation of its mineral and energy resources, Minerals and Construction for Northern Kosovo needs to develop its infrastructure and make its mines more productive,” and Central Europe, hosted the opening cer- Salihu told Prishtina Insight. emony and entertained guests, including According to him, Sandvik’s expertise, government officials, the Swedish ambassa- coupled with its uniquely broad range of dor and industry figures. The Prishtina equipment for hard- and soft-rock under- office will serve as a sales and service cen- ground mines, surface mines, quarries, ter for Sandvik’s mining and construction civil-engineering and tunneling projects, as activities. well as for demolition and recycling tasks, Sandvik, which specializes in extraction will be a great asset to the market here, and tools and materials technology and expert- will indirectly lead to Kosovo’s economic ise, decided to move into Kosovo to meet the growth. large demand in the mining sector. “Speed Sandvik is a world leader in the industry and currently operates in 130 countries and is considered in every aspect of mining and photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight employs 15,200 people. Their earnings were construction. Our clients now need to be in 33 billion Swedish Kronor in 2007. a position to respond to demand, which con- The Down Syndrome Association of Kosovo has started a new training pro- Kosovo has an abundance of minerals, but tinues to change. Therefore, they need a gram called ‘X-21’ for youth and adults with Down syndrome. X-21 is a café locat- has faced extraction inefficiencies and ed near the PTK building, which allows persons with Down syndrome to work in partner that can also respond with speed.” enterprise problems in the past. The govern- an environment which integrates them with the community. The general public The director of the Kosovo office, Kujtim ment has made attracting foreign invest- is welcomed and encouraged to enjoy a cup of coffee at X-21. Down syndrome is Salihu, believes that Kosovo is keen to ment a top priority since declaring inde- caused by an extra copy of the 21st chromosome. develop its infrastructure and mineral pro- pendence on February 17 of this year. 8 • November 14 - 27, 2008 city

Buildings That Shape Kosovo A Taste of Kosovo Mantia Hotel Union, Prishtina Recipe antia are a Prishtina favourite, and can be By Sarah Wischman in Prishtina Mfound in almost every bakery in our city. scolding expression seems These delectable, meat-filled to lie on Skanderbeg‘s pastries can be considered a Aface as he sits atop his no-fuss meal, since they are monument facing one of the old- easily eaten, especially when est buildings in Prishtina, on the go. Mantia is also a known as the former Hotel convenient dish to serve for Union, located next to the guests or at a party, with no National Theater. need for a fork and knife. One can imagine that it is only Preparing them involves a matter of time until he shakes work for each tiny ball of his head of steel in disbelief, delight, so prepare yourself thinking ”what a shame.” Designed in 1927, the once- for a feeling of gratification beautiful building combines the while enjoying the meal when neo-renaissance, neo-baroque you are finished. Be careful and Art Nouveau architectural though, you won’t be able to styles and is still a pleasure to keep count on how many of look at, though its beauty is fad- these tasty pastries you’ll be ing under ongoing decay. popping into your mouth! The windows are broken or missing, the front façade is Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo crumbling and the once-white the architecture is European, Hotel Skanderbeg, he explained. Borders Kosovo is a Swedish stucco that decorates the outside Maliqi said. People have seen this Another group of citizens foundation that supports build- is falling apart. Posters and a big kind of architecture in Belgrade wanted to preserve the building ing restoration and capacity ”rent a car” sign attract atten- and consider it Serbian, he said, because they understand its cul- building in the cultural heritage tion now, rather then the out- when in fact Belgrade’s architec- tural value, Maliqi said. sector. standing building. ture is very much influenced by ”As the owner you have some The building was sold with a The warm salmon colour peels European architecture. responsibility, you can’t destroy few requirements attached, off the walls and the back of the Also, people said that Serbs com- the object without permission Shoshaj said. The building can- building is covered in green mitted crimes against Albanians from the competent authorities not be destroyed, it has to be cloth. Ingredients in the building, he stated. and even if you sell it, the next restored and parts of it should be However, the building, which used for cultural purposes, he ½ kg ground beef was privatized three years ago, explained. 2 onions has many supporters who would On June 20, 2008, the munici- like to preserve it. A group of pality of Prishtina gave authori- 1 tablespoon butter young people started a petition in zation for the building to be 1 teaspoon salt April, 2008 when they read in the restored, according to Mejrushe 1 teaspoon pepper local press that the municipality Sejdullahu, head of the Urban Chopped parsley was considering demolishing the Planning office. 1 kg flour structure. There will be an addition at ½ liter water Agon Maliqi was one of the the rear of the current struc- organizers of the protests, which ture, but it will preserve the Mix the flour, water and went on for 10 days. basic profile of the building. salt to create a soft dough. The municipality decided not This addition will be undertak- Kneed the dough and leave to to demolish the building. en after its materials and design the side to rest. “Whether we had a direct impact have been thoroughly studied. Set your oven to 200 degrees [on their decision], I don’t know,” “It will by no means compete Maliqi said, ”but we wanted to with the monument itself, there- Celsius. start a debate.” And they suc- by preserving the old architec- Chop the onions into small ceeded. tural idea of the building,” pieces, add them to a heated When it came to the building, Sejdullahu said. and oiled pan and fry until the opinion of the population Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo “I can tell you one thing; the they turn a golden colour. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo was split, Maliqi said. “It was project is going to end up far Add the ground beef to the interesting to see how the build- Moreover, many people believe owner takes on the responsibility better than everyone had expect- pan and cook thoroughly. Add ing speaks to citizens.” that the sculptured, stucco faces as well, according to the princi- ed it to be. Everyone’s going to salt, pepper and parsley at the Some citizens wanted to have want to be a part of it, once its that decorate the building repre- ples of Cultural Heritage without end. the building torn down because sent a Serbian Czar, Maliqi said. Borders,” said Sali Shoshaj, head done,” said Fatos Tahiri, a they believed it to be an example Divide the dough into 28 However, it is more likely that of the Cultural Heritage without structural engineer and director of Serbian architecture, while balls. with a rolling pin, roll a they represent Skanderbeg, as Borders (CHwB) Kosovo Office. of Premium Engineering, the supporters tried to explain that ball into a circle roughly the the building used to be called the Cultural Heritage without firm that is taking care of the stability of the structure during size of a coffee-cup saucer. renovations. Brush the circle with oil. An Italian company will under- Place a spoon-sized amount take the architectural aspects of of the meat filling in the mid- the project, Tahiri said. dle of the circle. Wrap the Keeping the building and ends of the circle over the fill- restoring it is very important, ing, creating a ball of dough Maliqi said, because “it is a sym- with the filling inside. Repeat bol of European influence and heritage.” During the communist the procedure with each ball era and the 1997-1999 war, many of dough. buildings were destroyed. “We Place all 28 balls side by need to preserve the little some- side in a large oiled pan. thing that is left,” he added. Place the pan in the pre- Skanderbeg would probably heated oven. Cook for 30 min- agree. He would sit much proud- utes, until the surface of the er in his saddle made of steel if mantias turn a golden colour. he gazed at a restored building, Serve with a glass of cold remarkable for its distinctive- yogurt. ness and old beauty. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo insight • November 14 - 27, 2008 9 Doctors Milk State Hospitals for Private Gain

An undercover investigation reveals how doctors blatant- ly abuse jobs in the state health service to recruit clients for their private clinics. Dr Fahrush Mjaku is doing two jobs at the same time; one at the public hospital and another at his private lab

Following an undercover inves- is financed directly from the gov- interviewed one of the referred “Do you think I spent tigation, Prishtina Insight can ernment, while patients have to patients, Gjyla Morina, who was all these years educating By Alban Selimi and the reveal that many doctors in pay only very small fees for the there to get a blood test. “I went to BIRN team in Prishtina Kosovo are abusing their govern- service. The only private health the public lab but they didn’t myself so I could work ment-funded positions in this insurance schemes are interna- want to accept me, and referred way. Some, like Bejtullahu, do so tional ones, mostly used by the me to come here,” she said. for 240 euro a month “See that door? That’s where openly, whereas others are more well-paid staff of international When Kade Bejtullahu was in the public hospital?” you can go and do your lab tests,” reluctant to admit that that they organisations. Ordinary people confronted by Prishtina Insight says Kade Bejtullahu, manager of are recruiting private patients in have to rely on the public health over this practice, she admitted Fahrush Mjaku, a public medical centre in this way. system, which faces multiple her irregular behaviour and lung specialist Prishtina, as she refers the Low salaries and bad working challenges, from corruption to a asked us not to publish our find- patients to use the “Dri Lab” pri- conditions are some of the rea- basic lack of funds. ings. “I will stop telling patients vate laboratory across the street. sons why doctors are not satisfied This situation is being manipu- to go to my lab,” she promised, Fahrush Mjaku, a lung specialist, “It’s close and you can get all your with working solely in the public lated by unethical doctors who adding that she saw “nothing bad treating a patient in his private results by 1pm,” adds Bejtullahu, health service. The services they continue to work in the public in all this.” Bejtullahu said clinic while he was supposed to who uses her public position to can provide in the private sector sector while running their own almost everybody working in the be on duty across the street in the boost her private business, as she are more lucrative. As a result, businesses, although there is health service was doing the public hospital. is the owner of the Dri Lab. some doctors say that if they often an obvious conflict of inter- same thing. “I don’t have to say anything. The old man to whom she was were to choose between their pri- est. Her superviser, Avdullah Hoti, You filmed me there and you can talking to is one of countless vate and public work, they would chief of medical centres in do that again tomorrow,” Mjaku Kosovars who go to public health definitely opt for the first. Prishtina, told Prishtina Insight told Prishtina Insight, when A network to divert asked how he could defend such centres to get treatment, only to Furthermore, Prishtina patients: he would take immediate discipli- be rejected by the personnel, usu- Insight can reveal that in many nary measures against actions. Bejtullahu and anybody else “Do you think I spent all these ally on the grounds that they lack hospitals in Kosovo, doctors have Kada Bejtullahu has mobilised abusing their jobs. years educating myself so I could the equipment or medication. set up their own teams and net- an entire team to recruit patients Officials from the Ministry of work for 240 euro a month in the The Bejtullahu is just one of the works of people, such as nurses for Dri Lab. As manager of Health also said the findings of public hospital?” he asked. He many doctors in Kosovo using and technicians, precisely in Prishtina’s medical centre num- the Prishtina Insight investiga- argued that there was a lack of their public health jobs to recruit order to guide patients to their ber 5, Bejtullahu encourages her tion came as a surprise. The chief lung specialists in Ferizaj, so he patients for their private surger- private labs. staff to “advise” patients to use inspector of the ministry, Zef felt obliged to keep working in the ies, labs and clinics. Kosovo’s public health system her private clinic. “All these tests Komani, said he would immedi- public sector. On the other hand, will cost you only four euros,” ately issue a memorandum, he also wanted to make a living, one of the nurses tells an old ordering legal steps to be taken which was why he also worked at woman. The nurse goes on to against such people. his private clinic. explain that the old woman can- Prishtina Insight filmed for not get the free blood test she several hours in front of the seeks in the public lab because Widespread phenomenon: regional hospital of Ferizaj and they “are missing some during that time many doctors, A heavily damaged asphalt reagents.” The lab to which she nurses and other staff crossed road divides the regional hospital referred the patient to belongs to the road from the public hospital of Ferizaj from several private her supervisor. to private clinics and labs on the ordinances and clinics. Residents Enver Bunjaku, a lab techni- other side. of this town told Prishtina cian, is also part of Bejtullahu’s Sylejman Metushi, director of Insight that local doctors had patient-recruiting network. the Ferizaj hospital, said he felt deliberately positioned their pri- Prishtina Insight filmed him not powerless to stop his doctors from vate clinics close to the public only telling patients to use the slipping out of the hospital to go hospital. Diverting the sick from private lab, but literally escorting and serve patients at their own the one to the other is a common them over the road to Dri Lab, clinics.“What can I do? I cannot occurrence in Ferizaj, too, where Doctors and nurses escort the patients from the public lab to the private one during his working hours. cross the red line,” he said, many residents complain of Prishtina Insight’s undercover adding that he could not fire being virtually forced to use the team witnessed several patients them, when so few doctors were private clinics and labs, as the being rejected at the public lab, available. Metushi said he had to public one doesn’t work. and being clearly instructed by tolerate such behaviour because Doctors employed in the nurses to use the private one the city lacked doctors. regional hospital in Ferizaj find across the street. Chief inspector of health Zef the time, during working hours, When we visited Dri Lab, we Komani for his part complained to cross the street and serve their that the ministry lacked inspec- patients at their private clinics. tors who were able to tackle the The law on the health system in Doctors employed in the phenomenon. He told Prishtina Kosovo does permit doctors who Insight that he would take all the regional hospital in Ferizaj are employed in public health legal steps that he could to stop service to hold down secondary find the time, during such behaviour by doctors and jobs. But the law does not allow managers in future. working hours, to cross them to work for their own pri- vate clinics during the time that the street and serve their The research for this article they are supposed to be at work at was originally carried out for patients at their private their public jobs. BIRN’s current affairs TV show Prishtina Insight filmed Dr A nurse negotiating the price for services clinics. “Jeta ne Kosove.” 10 • November 14 - 27, 2008 food & drink Napoli

For really authentic, delicious Italian pizza at a good price, you can’t beat ‘Napoli.’

have a really bad day if you’ve had pizza. With this in Reviewed by mind I set out to find Ronan Macnamara Prishtina’s best pizza. After an exhausting but not entire- ly unpleasant search (I once , so on the down had seven pizzas in seven side it’s a bit off days!) I can now assert that OKthe beaten track this unassuming little dining and it’s not very “comfort- spot perched on the side of able,” glamorous, or even Sunny Hill makes what I con- warm, for that matter. On the sider to be the best pizza in upside, however, it’s cheap as Prishtina. I can hear the chips and they give you plen- naysayers rattling their ty! sabres already! Maybe they’re Napoli (I can’t quite figure right. It’s possible that there

out how they came up with are contenders out there that Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo such an imaginative name) is can lay claim to the title but, whopping 23 options there’s to the conical mountain of The owners have made a just one of Prishtina’s pletho- when the cost-quality ratios really something for every- toppings that many pizzerias special effort to ensure that ra of pizzerias. This town has are totted up, Napoli can’t be one; if not, you’re welcome to offer to disguise the fact that the music played at Napoli is more bloody pizzerias than beaten. pick and choose your toppings the basics of the pizza, i.e. the exclusively Italian (if not Sarah Palin has changes of Napoli’s menu consists of 4 as you like. crust and the sauce, are sub- Neapolitan) and your meal clothes. In fact, I’m sure many different kinds of salad; 5 The crusts are thin but par. can be enjoyed to the sounds of you have found yourselves spaghetti and macaroni dish- never soggy, as happens with My personal favourite is of bad Italian pop singers eating pizza every other meal es; 6 wine options and that’s many thin-crust pizzas. This the “Diavolo,” consisting sim- singing in worse Spanish. For from a simple dearth of pretty much it, except, of is down to the consistency of ply of spicy sausage and red comic value I highly recom- options. It might seem course, for the 23 varieties of the tasty tomato sauce and the peppers, but all of the pizzas mend bringing an Italian to strange, therefore, for pizza! Each is prepared exclu- absorbing properties of the are delicious. I even brought sing along and translate some Prishtina Insight to give you sively with ingredients spe- mozzarella cheese that smoth- a real-life I-talian with me to of the more choice lyrics. The the low-down on yet another cially shipped over from Italy ers the surface. Toppings are confirm my findings. She was musical highlight of the pizzeria, so please bear with by owners and pizza connois- also applied in near-perfect suitably impressed. The por- evening was provided by a me. seurs Besim Maxhuni and quantities. Unless you order tions are sizeable and you stirring rendition of “O Sole A friend of mine once Enis Berkolli. Most impres- the house special, your pizza won’t be served some factory- Mio,” the only even-slightly explained to me that pizza is sively, however, each also will arrive looking relatively made, geometrically-flawless Neapolitan element of the like sex; it’s impossible to costs less than 5 euro. With a two-dimensional, as opposed circular disk. In fact your meal. In fact, it remains a pizza will most likely arrive mystery why the place isn’t looking more like a circle’s called “Italy” instead of in-bred cousin, indicating its Napoli. It would make slight- homemade credentials. You ly more sense. can even peer into the One of the few cool things kitchen to keep an eye on about Napoli’s decor is a progress as you wait. large square table which is Maxhuni and Berkolli perfect for a group of around learned their trade in ten. My office occasionally Bolzano in northern Italy likes to decamp en masse to (hundreds of kilometres Napoli for what we’ve termed away from Naples) and the “tour de pizza.” I actually returned home ten years ago reckon the lunch sitting is with a formula to wow the more pleasant than dinner. Prishtina market. All of the art on the walls is Originally, Napoli was locat- up for sale, should you chose ed beside the ProCredit in to splash out some of the cash Pejton, but the end of their you’ve saved with the low lease forced them into exile prices. on the hill. Fewer patrons Napoli is definitely not now darken Napoli’s doors Prishtina’s most glamorous but a sizable clientele still spot; the interior is spartan seek them out when they get and when Obama gets here the cravings that only (any day now) the chances are Napoli can dispel. They’ve he won’t be eating at Napoli; also started to deliver, which but that doesn’t mean it’s not is brilliant news for a bloody good feed suitable Prishtina’s lazy slobs. for the rest of us. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo food & drink • November 14 - 27, 2008 11 Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo Tingell Tangell Tingell Tangell is not Xhoni’s, and it doesn’t try to be, but it isn’t moving up-market; this is Xhoni’s slightly more chilled-out, older cousin, with the friendly and accepting ambience preserved

loyally transferred their custom they’ve even carried on the to Tingell Tangell, which was theme of drawing on the walls, known only as “the new though the brighter lighting Reviewed by Ronan Macnamara Xhoni’s” for many months. The has discouraged those with an same alternative crowd (or obvious lack of talent. In a fur- “crusties,” as my brother calls ther nod to the ways of Xhoni’s, irst things first; apparent- this particular urban tribe) rou- the staff have endeavoured to

ly the right name for tinely turns out in numbers and keep the toilet at Tingell Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo FTingle Tangle is Tingell Xhoni’s friendly and accepting Tangell almost as gross. When ture (Art Deco, if I’m not mis- you’ll notice that most of the Tangell. Just like it was actually ambience has been largely pre- Tingell Tangell first opened its taken) and there’s even a cov- faces present for renditions of “Xhoni’s Depo” and not served. Tingell Tangell has doors, patrons couldn’t believe ered wooden terrace for the Ginsberg and Joyce were the Johnnies Depot... Well, who inherited Xhoni’s mantle as it was really run by the same summer. On Fridays, they same ones you used to see knew? Anyway, I clearly remem- Prishtina’s premier melting crew as Xhoni’s. A quick trip to sometimes host open-mike bouncing off the walls at two in ber rocking up on a Friday pot of locals and expats. The the toilet was enough to con- poetry sessions, albeit without the morning at Xhoni’s. You night, ready for the usual staff have also made every firm that Xhoni’s had indeed an actual mike. Patrons are should know better than to debauchery, only to be greeted effort to ensure the transition found a new home! After all, encouraged to utter a few vers- pigeon hole and stereotype… by a tightly bolted door. was as smooth as possible for Xhoni’s regulars can’t be es from their favourite word- If you’re looking for a late Rumours had been doing the their local and international allowed to think they’re mov- smiths or even to share their night of mayhem, Tingell rounds that Xhoni’s was closing clientele, retaining many of ing up-market; this is purely a own compositions. Those brave Tangell can only provide a but, whenever asked, the staff the traits that set Xhoni’s apart cross-market manoeuvre. enough to perform were invari- launching board for your jour- had laughed it off and assured from its competitors. Despite the similarities, ably accompanied by a “crusty” ney. Unfortunately, you’ll have me that no such thing would The music is as eclectic as Tingell Tangell is not Xhoni’s, on the bongo and another on a to look elsewhere for the main ever happen... alas. ever, if not quite as rowdy. The and in truth it doesn’t even try small electric piano. It’s not the event. In short Tingell Tangell Tingell Tangell, located in the DJ, if you get the right night, to be. Rather than simply try- usual Friday night in Prishtina is like Xhoni’s slightly more courtyard of an apartment com- will even allow you to plug your ing to imitate the inimitable but not a bad way to pass a few chilled-out, older cousin. You plex next to UNMIK, is the new MP3 player into the sound sys- they have created a new venue hours. can sit in comfort and have a home of the evicted staff of tem to bang out your own with its own unique atmos- Needless to say, this is a com- beer (or seven) and you can Xhoni’s. Many, if not most, of tunes. Prices remain the same phere. There is no dancing; it’s pletely different scene to even chat with your friends the regulars from Xhoni’s have 1 euro for a Peja or raki and well lit; there is actual furni- Xhoni’s but, if you look closely, without screaming. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo 12 • November 14 - 27, 2008 guide Liqenët e Kuqishtes, Rugova Mountains

Reaching the glacial Red Stone Lakes, after a long trek to where they lie concealed beneath a pristine and pine-clad summit, makes you feel close to heaven. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo Dragonfly and the wonderful colours of Liqenët e Kuqishtes and the Rugova mountains.

tination. The road and the ter- about the signs we would have to rain were quite tough on my car follow along the way. We got our and after 40 minutes or so we photographic gear and started reached the highest point acces- the ascent. Right from the start, By Asdren Rrahmani sible by car. There we stopped at it was clear the terrain would be a restaurant for a coffee, before steep and rocky, but we were ne hot summer evening, I making our way up the mountain determined to make it to the was meeting a profession- to the glacial lakes of Liqenët e lakes. By now, the sun was Oal photographer friend Kuqishtes, or the Red Stone scorching, so we stopped ever so who works and lives in Bangkok Lakes, as some call it, after the often for a breather. We were these days. We were discussing nearby Guri i Kuq, or Red Stone, tracking the time; it had been an developments in the digital pho- mountain. hour since we started our ascent tography industry, new cameras We asked the café waiter how to the mountaintop with no gla- and achievements, enjoying the long it would take to climb the cial lake in sight. Above us, all summer breeze on the terrace of mountain to our goal. He said it the elements were there - some- a Prishtina café that was full of would take around 30 or 40 min- young people. Eventually, after utes and gave some instructions deciding to go to the Rugova mountains over the weekend, I suggested we go to Liqenët e Kuqishtes, the glacial lakes that lie on top of the mountains, to which my friend agreed immedi- ately, as neither of us had been there before. That Saturday morning, at 3:00am, I went to pick up my friend and got on the road to the Rugova mountains, a road famil- iar to me. I was filled with excite- ment and the morning promised a beautiful hot day ahead. The sun was rising as we approached Peja and the Rugova gorge loomed before of us. After anoth- Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo er 20 minutes, we came to a sign First view of the Liqenët e Kuqishtes Glacial Lakes from the mountaintop. directing us to Kuqishte; our des- An amphibian in the glacier lake. guide • November 14 - 27, 2008 13

How to go there Take the road from Prish tina to Peja. Once there, follow direc- tions towards the Rugova gorge on the west side of the city. Drive through the gorge for some 20-25 km until you reach a right turn where you will see two signs, one showing directions for Boge and the other for Kuqishte. Turn left towards Kuqishte. Once there, you can rest up at the restaurant and ask the waiters for the hik- ing path to the Liqenët e Kuqishtes glacial lakes. There are two lakes but we only visited the first. The other takes an addi- Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo tional 30 or 40 minutes of hiking, Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo and is the smaller of the two. View of the lake from one side of the shore. The hiking path. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo Nature at its best.

thing that looked like a dam selves from taking pictures from and here was this garbage, ruin- made of rocks, with trees on the various angles and could not get ing the scenery. While taking sides. But, to our disappoint- enough of the sight in front of us. some photos, we went into the ment, it was not a glacial lake I went all the way down and close water and took out some of the but just another part of a moun- to the water. There, I observed bottles so they would not show tain that we would have to dragonflies gliding above the sur- in the frame, sparing readers climb. We were completely face of the lake and, under the the sight of garbage in the pho- wrong as to where the glacier water, amphibious creatures that tographs. lake would appear. We had I had never seen before, which Our awareness of the damage expected it to be right in front of resembled lizards but had very we are doing to the environment us but, according to the signs peculiar “fingers”. needs to grow, and people must that the waiter had told us to fol- They were probably salaman- low (red circles painted onto ders. Unfortunately I didn’t have realize that no one has the right to interfere with nature in such a Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo stones) we had to make a left the right type of lens to capture Another view of Liqenët e Kuqishtes from above. turn on the mountain, and them, but later I was told that way. Given the bitter taste that climb higher and higher. they were a unique species of these scenes left in our memories, We took photographs as we amphibians that only inhabit this you might wonder whether it was were climbing. It was a remark- glacial lake and are found worth all the hassle of climbing able work of God all around, and nowhere else. up there. My answer is: yes! In we felt dwarfed by the scale of it - I felt like my quest was to find fact, I plan to do it again and two tiny creatures. out more about these little crea- again. I am sure that if you visit- Then came the majestic tures. We walked around the ed this place you also would feel moment when the glacial lake lakeside, continuously taking overwhelmed by its beauty. It is appeared below us as we reached pictures from various angles the kind of place where one feels the summit. What a view it was, and trying to capture as much revived, and where one feels as the green colours of the pine of this beauty as we possibly small, and appreciative of life, trees, the red of the stones, the could. But then something beauty, and nature, and of what deep blue sky and the white upset us; we noticed the mass of God has left for us, and genera- clouds all complemented each empty plastic bottles, tins, beer tions to come, to cherish. other. This was a time when I cans and other human debris truly appreciated the digital cam- thrown in the lake or dumped But if you do go there, take a era as opposed to film, and I around the shore. It was a great rucksack with drinking water wanted to make sure my pictures shame. My friend said; “I don’t and food and remember to bring come out as best as they could. understand how they bothered the rubbish back with you; think of all the other people that would Descending towards the lake, to carry this stuff all the way up Hiking track, satellite view – a picture of the hiking path from the restaurant we noticed people on both sides of in order to leave it here.” Here love to enjoy this sight just as the shore. We could not stop our- was this beautiful work of God, much as you. to the lake, with GPS coordinates of the lake and Rugova mountains. 14 • November 14 - 27, 2008 review Seeking Forgiveness but Struggling to Defy Division “Not My Turn to Die,” the eyewitness account of a young Serb trapped with his family in a Bosnian town during the 1992-1995 war, unwittingly falls into the ideological thought processes that this tale of forgiveness aims to overcome. down the Drina River. The book belonged. Forgiveness, it seems, highlights Heleta’s personal has not resulted in him returning struggle to offer forgiveness to humanity to the perpetrator. Reviewed by his neighbours turned-torm- While reading “Not My Turn to Conor Gaffney entors. Whilst Heleta writes “[I Die,” I was reminded of a conver- learned that] people cannot be sation I had with a young Bosniak lovenian philosopher and divided into groups by ethnicity, from Sanski Most. We were on a psychoanalyst Slavoj Zizek religion, or any other feature, bus, returning from a ceremony Sdelivered a lecture at this only into groups of good, bad, at the Hrastova Glavica mass year’s Sarajevo Film Festival on and indifferent people,” he also grave where his father and uncle the persistence of ideology in an indulges in dangerous generalisa- were buried after being killed by age that many theorists define as tions, by branding his captors the Bosnian Serbs who ran being “post-ideological” in and the BiH Army as “Muslim Omarska prison camp. My com- nature. extremists” who just want to see panion was optimistic about the Zizek argued that ideology “distinguished Serbs” suffer. prospects for a multi-ethnic operates on two levels – the Heleta’s explicit self-portrayal future in Bosnia. “We can live explicit and the implicit. The lat- of having ceased to think along together, side by side. I don’t care ter level, which Zizek believes national, ethnic, or religious if you’re Serb or I’m Muslim. still exists in the so-called “post- lines is thrown into doubt by his ideological” West, is hidden suggestion that “this war was a Not My Time to Die behind other competing discours- mere continuation of centuries- es. Savo Heleta’s memoir “Not My long animosity between By Savo Heleta Turn to Die” is, unfortunately, a Christians and Muslims living in AMACOM Publishing, perfect illustration of Zizek’s the area”. By treating the conflict point. as a product of timeless animosi- New York. Employing a dispassionate ty between two religious groups, prose, Heleta describes the terror Heleta has returned the partici- That is in the past,” he said. foremost, as “Serbs” - that is, dict, and politicians are engaged that accompanied daily life for pants in the conflict to those very When I asked him to explain individuals defined by psycholo- in the task of trying to undo the him as a Serb resident in Gorazde groups. how neighbours could begin gies and behaviours that follow a political deadlock that has whilst the town was held by the Hence, ironically, the two lay- killing each other overnight, he pattern determined by ethnicity. gripped the country for more Army of BiH during the war. ers of ideology that Zizek warned answered “I don’t know. Serbs are Thirteen years after the war in than a decade. like that. They greet you in the Having survived imprisonment about are reflected in Heleta’s Bosnia, the mechanisms which But, as Heleta’s memoir street and then go home and and starvation at the hands of writing. Forgiveness for his drive transitional justice have hit demonstrates, expunging the clean their guns. That is how they their Bosniak neighbours, togeth- Bosniak tormentors has not top-gear as the country seeks to ghosts of past nationalism and think.” Despite his professed er with two years of death threats undone Savo’s image of them as a come to terms with its past: transitioning to a post-national, indifference towards ethnicity, and perennial shelling, Savo and separate group of people who are Karadzic is behind bars in The post-ideological future can elude this young man still thought of his family finally fled to Serb-con- antagonistic towards the group Hague, the Bosnian State Court even the most well-intentioned his Serbian neighbors, first and trolled territory by swimming of people to which Savo himself has passed its first genocide ver- offers of forgiveness and peace. The Halloween of a Cow

PRISHTINA INSIGHT, PRISHTINA “It’s the greatest party ever,” dressed girls, those who never t was the last Friday of said Milot Hasimja, a journalist pay any entrance fees, any- October and all the roads in who was costumed as a fireman, where, were donating at least 5 IPrishtina were taking people sweating from the heavy danc- euros each as the merciless to the Illyrian Room. Outside on ing. organizers were giving them a Mother Theresa street fireworks Some people didn’t bother to strange look. were being abused by masked wear masks. Some tried to be 3,000 euros were raised at the children of all ages. It was funny. If there were a prize for party, of which some 650 euros Halloween. But inside the café it the most creative costume, it came from a single person from was a totally different story. A would definitely belong to the Netherlands, a guy named charity party was taking place; Russell Geekie, an UNMIK Sven, who put in the highest bid Kosovo’s best bands were per- spokesperson, who was masked in an auction to buy a painting forming and everyone who as his former boss – Joachim by Rron Qena - of a cow, natural- joined the party donated at least Ruecker. ly. Currently a roof is being built tributed to all this. 5 euros to buy a cow for a poor Wearing a plastic bag on his Many people organised the for a poor roofless family while And everybody had a great family in Drenica and to con- head, round-shaped glasses and event, all of them volunteers. another family is happily milk- time! For the first time in struct a roof to shelter another an UNMIK badge with Ruecker’s They named themselves ‘The ing their cow. The Balkan winter Prishtina, a band did long and needy family. name, Geekie really managed to National High Council will be easier for these two powerful stage diving. Nobody The Illyrian room was never look like his hairless boss. Administration for Cow deserving families, while every- got hurt, everybody was happy. so full. Different kinds of people Another interesting part of Admiration’ and wished to one who took part in the As many said, it was the best went crazy to the tunes of differ- the night was happening at the remain unknown. But their Halloween Charity concert has way to spend a Halloween ent bands performing live. entrance. Prishtina’s well- activities are known now. reason to feel good, as they con- night. feature • November 14 - 27, 2008 15 All That Jazz Seven days of non-stop music made the 4th Prishtina Jazz Festival unforgettable tival’s organizer, referring to Uri Caine, the star jazz pianist who opened the jazz festival in By Arif Muharremi Prishtina. in Prishtina This edition of Kosovo’s first - and only - jazz festival, was rich with different artists, tastes and agging tongues could sounds coming from Europe and say that ‘the tickets the United States. Bajri says Wwere expensive’ or ‘the that next year he is going to cel- sound system was flawed’ but, in ebrate the 5th Prishtina Jazz the end, even they would confess Festival by bringing some of the that seven days of jazz in the most famous stars of the jazz Oda theatre were unforgettable. world to Prishtina. The deciding factor that made Asked the names of the the fourth edition of the artists who will be coming to Prishtina Jazz Festival success- Prishtina next year, Bajri said ful was very apparent – simplici- they remain secret. ty. People just knew the place “Nobody likes to know the end where they should gather at of a movie without watching all beautiful people,” said Caine, concepts of their composing. “Man, when I saw he was eight o’clock, simple as that. of it,” he says. adding that he knows little “We were very proud of them, coming here, at first I didn’t And, once there, it was jazz Uri Caine flew directly from about the music scene in they were the pride of the local believe it. But that night, while music, all the time. Frankfurt, where he was play- Kosovo, but was eager to play in scene. First, they came with a he was playing, I sat as close as “Now, nobody can say that we ing with a German big band, to Prishtina. real interesting concept and I I could and it was fantastic”, are facing a lack of interest, a Prishtina, just so he could play Another band that was a high- was really happy to have them said Driton, a jazz fan. lack of audience, ‘cause that’s along with his Kosovar fellows. light of the festival was the here,” said Bajri. “Institutions should think more just not true. The people coming “In Germany, for example, local OM Quartet. Their per- Among the world’s jazz stars of bringing these people to to experience the music of a there were certain pieces I had formance was very successful, who played in Prishtina during Prishtina, ‘cause they are the famous jazz musician are over- to play, but here it is different, as well as interesting in the way this year’s festival was Reggie best ambassadors Kosovo could flowing,” said Ilir Bajri, the fes- here I play what I feel to this it reflected and represented the Washington. have.” Professional Body Art Comes to Prishtina, Finally Prishtina’s first professional tattoo and body-piercing parlour has locals and internationals alike dropping by for some needle action.

means quality materials, and clients are foreigners. But Enes Enes’ machines, needles and pig- explains that his Kosovar clien- ments are all shipped over from tele has been increasing every By Shega A’Mula the United States. Of course, all year, suggesting a growth in local in Prishtina needles are sterile and single-use tattoo appreciation. only. The walls of his parlour, which tyle trends are disposable, Enes became fascinated with is located in the Qafa area of music tracks get over- body art in his early teens, but Prishtina, are smothered in pho- Splayed, but the tattoo trend Prizren in the early Nineties was tos illustrating arrays of designs, is just as permanent as the stain hardly the right environment to and body parts. it leaves on skin. The number of gain experience. “Internationals, especially people getting ‘inked’ around the He embarked on an educational Americans, prefer signs of patri- world has been growing steadily journey to the coastal resorts of otism such as symbols and flags. for decades. Turkey, where he worked and Kosovars really love tribal Those of you yearning to get completed an intensive course for designs,” acknowledges Enes. your bodies inked can drop by a six month period. Enes then His personal favourites, how- Prishtina’s first professional tat- moved on to Sofia, Bulgaria, ever, are insect and satanic

too parlour, and visit its equally where he confides that he was designs, which he loves to com- Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo professional tattoo artist. Enes able to considerably broaden his pose and embed into peoples’ native, is one of Enes’ clients. His the artist’s work, and customer Baxhaku, owner and artist at Pro tattooing style and techniques skins. But the ultra-friendly tattoo is located on his bicep, and service, and believes he’ll be Tattoo, opened his shop in 2004 while receiving accreditation and artist, who says that 30 percent is an image of a swallow, an old dropping by for some more needle after 14 years of studying the art, licenses. of his body is currently covered sailor’s tattoo representing loyal- action in the future. gaining experience and earning The timing was ripe to intro- with ink, strives to accurately ty. He is one among many in his accreditation and licenses. duce professional tattooing to put whatever design is desired circle of friends that have tattoos, Enes’ needle work is not limit- Prishtina in 2004, as the city was on paper and then on skin, using Pro Tattoo indicating a growing popularity ed to ink. Pro Tattoo also does an jam-packed with international varying needle sizes, pressures UCK street, Prishtina with youth in Kosovo. array of professional body pierc- staff and cultural influences. and pigments. Phone: 038 243 570 Astrit was very pleased with E-Mail: [email protected] ings. In this field, professional Even today, the majority of Enes’ Astrit Musliu, a Prishtina Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo 16 • November 14 - 27, 2008 neighbourhood Murder Raises Question of Drug Use Still a Problem in Romania Mafia Power in Croatia BALKAN INSIGHT,BUCHAREST conference. Almost 15 percent of rug consumption in 16-year-olds have tried strong Initial probe into publisher’s death suggests disturbing level of intertwinement Romania remains relative- drugs at least once, ANA data Dly stable but is still alarm- shows. A country that had virtu- between the criminal underworld, high politics and media. ingly high. There are around ally no consumption or produc- 40,000 drug users in Romania, tion of illegal drugs before officials say. 1989, Romania is now part of the “The main problem so-called Balkan trafficking for Romania is that more and route to Western Europe. more users are trying drugs at a Furthermore, Romania is a very early age. ‘zero tolerance’ country with dra- For example, we’ve found cases conian penalties: up to seven of 11 year-old children using years in prison for using drugs cannabis,” Pavel Abraham, chief and a near-life sentence for dis- of the National Anti-Drug tributing drugs. Agency (ANA) said in a press Serbian Dinar Continues To Weaken BALKAN INSIGHT, BELGRADE the bank said in a statement. In he Serbian dinar contin- a separate statement carried by ued its slide against the B92 TV, Jelasic said that “the Teuro after a brief respite exchange rate is a mirror image earlier this month. The of the Serbian economy.” Belgrade-based National Bank Since the beginning of of Serbia said the dinar’s October, the Serbian central exchange rate with the euro bank injected 260 million euros stood at 86.7984 on Friday, set- to stabilise the dinar’s value.

Photo by FoNet by Photo ting a record low for 2008, down Jelasic said he hopes that the Police seal off the area where a car bomb exploded in the Croatian capital killing high-profile journalist Ivo Pukanic and his marketing chief. from its high in June of 75.7543 precautionary agreement per Euro. between Serbia and the the criminal world and the contacts with the other side as This week, the central bank International Monetary Fund other in the political one”. well. One murder suspect, intervened with a total of 50 mil- “that will be adopted this week- By Drago Hedl The author thus, albeit indi- Robert Matanic, has requested lion euros to restore liquidity in end will contribute to the stabil- in Zagreb rectly, entered into the polemics the status of key witness, to the currency market. Last week isation of the exchange rate.” over Croatia’s President which the prosecution is alone, the bank injected 20 mil- The precautionary agreement is Stjepan Mesic, who was allegedly willing to agree if he lion euros into the market after a non-financial deal in which the he murder of Ivo Pukanic’s close friend and who will reveal who ordered the the dinar plummeted to 86.7145 IMF states its support for a coun- Pukanic, the well-known attended his funeral. murder. and looked set to fall further. try’s macroeconomic policies. Tjournalist and magazine According to columnist While there is no official state “The intervention was aimed The IMF delegation is current- publisher, has reawakened Jelena Lovric, Pukanic was a of emergency over the murder interest in Croatia about the “bridge” between those whom of Pukanic, and shortly before, at preventing major oscillations ly in Belgrade where it is work- fine line that separates politics, Mesic describes as “us” and of Ivana Hodak, the 26-year-old of the exchange rate, having in ing with the Serbian government business and the media from “them”. She went on: “He was a daughter of a well known mind the low volume of trade” on drafting the 2009 budget. the mafia, crime and corrup- friend both of major members lawyer who is currently defend- tion. of the criminal milieu and of ing General Vladimir Zagorac, This troubling question, the highest representatives of (a Tudjman era general charged which hasn’t been answered, the authorities.” Lovric added with the theft of diamonds Croatia Bans Smoking has raised suspicions among that while one of notorious worth $5 million), and the for- BALKAN INSIGHT, ZAGREB despite previously announcing the public that the authorities member of the Zagreb criminal mer deputy prime minister and moking will no longer be more flexible legislation that are not really prepared to fight underworld was writing him minister of European integra- permitted in Croatia’s would have allowed bars and the evil that has claimed four “confidential letters”, at the tion, Ljerka Mintas Hodak, a Spublic institutions. restaurants to be either fully lives in Zagreb in less than a same time, Pukanic was “inti- state of emergency is virtually Smoking in hospitals, clinics, smoking or fully non-smoking. month. The speed and efficien- mate with Mesic, seeing him at on. schools, kindergartens and uni- The Government included the cy with which the police dinners and publicly on first Police have flooded the capi- versities will be punishable by a anti-smoking legislation as part tracked down the murderers of name terms with him”. tal, Zagreb; choppers fly over fine of 1,000 kunas (140 euros); of new health reforms present- Pukanic and his employee Niko That Pukanic was “not only a the city, police armed with rifles the only places in which smok- ed recently by the health minis- Franjic suggests that such journalist” is not seriously patrol the main highways; new ing will still be allowed are the ter, Darko Milinovic. readiness can exist. questioned in Croatia. Heni arrests occur every day, along psychiatric wards of Croatia’s The reforms, widely criti- The authorities have in the Erceg, former editor of the now with frequent searches of apart- hospitals. cized by opposition parties, past shown the political will to defunct weekly Feral Tribune, ments and cars. Although there The ban is the result of the unions and citizens, largely boil solve murders, by bringing peo- says Pukanic was “friends with is no official curfew, people are Croatian parliament’s decision down to new taxes on citizens ple who know their job to the mafia bosses, but also with staying off the streets after to outlaw smoking in all public who need health services. helm of the police and Interior influential politicians, which in dark. Television and front pages places, without exception. The As a part of these reforms, Ministry. The country’s new Croatia too often turn out to be are full of information on the only concession that lawmakers the Government decided to police chief, Vladimir Faber, for one and the same.” state’s war on the mighty mafia. agreed to was to give eating and raise the cigarette tax by five example, did a terrific job in Jasna Babic, a veteran jour- It is an embarrassment to a drinking establishments six kunas in 2009 and one more solving Osijek war crimes, nalist of Pukanic’s weekly government that has invested so months “to adjust” to the ban. kuna in the following two years. resulting in the trial of the Nacional, in an interview with much effort into Croatia’s rapid This means that smoking will A pack of cigarettes now retired general and Sabor Novi list, also described her for- integration with the European be prohibited in bars, restau- costs 14 kunas, or 2.3 euros. deputy Branimir Glavas. But mer boss as a person who had Union. rants and cafes starting in May Minister Milinovic said an the question is whether they equally good connections with Prime minister Sanader, 2009, except on open terraces additional 40 million euros will will allow investigations into the criminal milieu and high meanwhile, has pledged not to and in separate rooms in which be collected in this way and the latest murders in Zagreb to politics. allow Zagreb to become a new no food or drink is consumed. used to treat smokers who have go equally far, even if such Pukanic did not try to hide Beirut. The measure of his suc- According to the new law, a fallen ill. However, Andro probes lead to the doors of high- the latter, when, during guest cess will depend on whether the customer who violates the ban Vlahusic, a former health min- profile personalities. appearances in numerous tele- murder of Pukanic results in will be fined 140 euros, employ- ister of the Social-Democratic The dilemma was defined last vision shows, he spoke of his the capture of some big fish, or ees who do not prevent them Party, warned that this money week by author Slavenka connections with the President whether, as in so many similar will be fined 70 to 140 euros and will go to the state budget, not Drakulic, well known for her and Prime minister, addressing situations before, it serves only owners will be fined 700 to 2,400 necessarily for the treatment of trenchant criticism of Croatia’s them familiarly as “Stipe” and to net the minnows, while the euros. The owners’ fines will be smoking-related illnesses. It is authorities, who wrote in the “Ivo”, meaning President Mesic big ones resume their hunting, doubled for a second offense. estimated that 30 percent London Guardian that Pukanic and Prime Minister Sanader. undisturbed. Croatia’s parliament adopted of Croatia’s adult population “was known for being well-con- However, the investigation the smoking ban a month ago, smoke. nected, with one leg firmly in into his murder has uncovered Source: BalkanInsight.com neighbourhood • November 14 - 27, 2008 17 Europe Ponders New Albania Hunger Strike Threat Over Elections Strategy for Ailing Bosnia BALKAN INSIGHT, TIRANA stitution and free elections, have welve lawmakers from decided to go on a hunger strike to After two years of political impasse in Bosnia, the EU is preparing to strengthen its Albania’s smaller parlia- raise the public alarm of a coup Tmentary parties are threat- d’etat which is being prepared,” engagement and take sole charge of the international community’s presence there. ening to go on hunger strike to reads an open letter sent to protest proposed changes to the Albania’s President Bamir Topi. electoral code. The deputies The signatories include the accuse the Democratic Party of members of the Socialist Prime Minister Sali Berisha and Movement for Integration of for- the opposition Socialist Party, of mer Prime Minister Ilir Meta, the a deal to change the electoral Social Democrats and deputies code, which according to them from a new splinter party from will be used to rig the upcoming the Socialists, PS91. They charge parliamentary elections next that the changes proposed by the year. larger parties in the electoral “We, the deputies and heads of code are politically motivated and the undersigned parliamentary aim to push the smaller parties parties, in protection of the con- out of parliament. Kostunica Calls for New Serbia Elections BALKAN INSIGHT, BELGRADE unilateral independence. he leader of the opposition ”The authorities are negotiat- Democratic party of ing, in secret and behind the TSerbia, Vojislav Kostunica backs of MPs and the citizens of says the government should face a Serbia, over the reconfiguration no- confidence vote over the of UNMIK and the deployment deployment of the EU’s Rule of of EULEX throughout the entire Law Mission. EULEX, to Kosovo. territory of Kosovo,” Kostunica ”The only way to open a public warned. debate about this is through a par- “We want to know who is nego- liamentary vote of no confidence tiating on Serbia’s behalf the in the government, which cannot deployment of a mission whose be sidestepped,” the former main goal is the implementation prime minister said in an inter- of the Ahtisaari Plan for Kosovo “status quo is unviable and likely of consensus with Washington. view for daily Vecernje Novosti. independence. Meanwhile, the to remain so until and unless the For the moment, the closure of He said his party, DSS, has government refuses to include international community is pre- the OHR is not officially on the launched such an initiative to the opposition resolution on pared to change the parameters agenda, as the Steering Board of By Tim Judah parliament. Kostunica said that Kosovo on the parliamentary in London of its presence and approach. the Peace Implementation doing so was the last chance to agenda, while their own resolu- The document proposes a Council, which oversees the 1995 prevent the recognition of the tion, which doesn’t even mention seven-point strategy, which, as it Dayton accords, in February set EULEX mission and consequent- EULEX, is also being withdrawn,“ or months, alarms bells points out, is an updated version various conditions for closure have been ringing for ly the recognition of Kosovo’s he pointed out. of a plan from 2006. What is pro- that have not yet been fulfilled. FBosnia and Herzegovina as posesed is that the EU be ready to However, the Rehn-Solana the struggle between Haris take over from the OHR by mid- paper argues that the EU needs Silajdzic and Milorad Dodik, the 2009. to be prepared because if the Montenegro Warns of leading Bosniak and Serb politi- The Rehn-Solana report argues OHR is still around in 2010, when cians, brings reform and that the EU now needs to “max- the next elections are scheduled progress grinding to a halt. Rising Balkan Tensions imise its political leverage in the in Bosnia, the international com- Indeed, progress in Bosnia has country” and become fully re- munity’s presence “could once BALKAN INSIGHT,PODGORICA been on hold for some two years, engaged. To do so, it foresees the again become a central cam- ontenegro is urging during which period the authori- closure of OHR and a new UN res- NATO members to speed ty of the Office of the High paign theme…[and] the reform olution transferring residual agenda, EU membership, and the Mup membership for its Representative, OHR, represent- neighbours, where rising tensions OHR authorities to the EUSR. authorities’ track record on ing the international community, Non-EU countries will be are threatening stability since the delivery would suffer as result”. has been seriously undermined. engaged by having them work on wars of the 1990s. Whether or not OHR will real- Distracted by Kosovo, Serbia, the EUSR team. The elements of ”Our firm position is that stabil- ly be closed by the middle of next Iraq, Afghanistan and the global Bosnia’s EU Stabilisation and ity remains the foremost issue of year is an open question, but financial meltdown, Bosnia has Association Agreement, SAA, are our region,” Prime Minister Milo what seems certain is that now fallen low on the international to be used as “drivers for reform”. Djukanovic said. nic tensions in Bosnia, where both Kosovo and Serbia appear agenda. Now, concerned that The final points of the docu- ”The solution of that problem is Western troops have maintained stable, attention is shifting back progress in the country has not ment are a communication strate- in granting membership to all the the peace since a bloody civil war to Bosnia. just halted but gone into reverse, gy to explain the transition in regional countries,” Djukanovic in the 1990s. Meanwhile, according to EU foreign ministers on Monday Bosnia and a demand for clarity said after meeting with NATO Worries also were sparked by informed sources, diplomats in November 11 will consider, and on the question of stalled consti- Secretary-General Jaap de Hoop Serbia’s angry reaction to the most likely endorse, a new strate- tutional reforms. The EU should Bosnia may decide to use some Scheffer. decisions of Montenegro and gy prepared by Olli Rehn, the not “insist on a particular consti- of the information they have During the talks, Djukanovic Macedonia to recognise the inde- enlargement commissioner, and tutional blue-print,” it says, obtained on corruption in high handed over Montenegro’s formal pendence of Kosovo, which seced- Javier Solana, in charge of EU adding that it is “essential… to places to help break the political application for NATO’s member- ed in February. Ethnic Serb riot- foreign affairs. ensure a functional and efficient stalemate. ship action plan. The plan - seen as ers fought with police in Their report contains strong state, capable of delivering on Referring to certain key politi- the last step before full member- Montenegro’s capital, Podgorica, language. The political situation BiH’s obligations in the EU acces- cians one diplomat told Balkan ship - is designed to ensure that a to protest the government’s move. in Bosnia has deteriorated, it sion process”. Insight that the strategy would candidate nation meets NATO The states of the former says, and while the vast majority The Bosnian Serb leader, be to “isolate” these figures from standards in areas such as mili- Yugoslavia - Croatia, Bosnia, of Bosnians support EU member- Milorad Dodik, has long sought “their own electorate” and to tary reform, civilian control over Serbia, Macedonia and ship, their leaders are “mired in the closure of the OHR, and is show some of their close collabo- the armed forces, and transparen- Montenegro - have repeatedly the nationalist logic and talk of backed by Russia in this. rators that “they were a burden cy in defence budgets. complained that their progress the past”. The EU has an interest However, diplomatic sources say and obstacle to them and so Djukanovic said he was encour- toward membership has been in promoting change in Bosnia Russia has indicated that it is make them disloyal.” aged by de Hoop Scheffer’s unnecessarily long and complicat- because it is a potential candi- not looking for a conflict with response. He said the secretary ed. In contrast, they say, the bloc date for membership, and “a Europe over Bosnia. Even if this Tim Judah, a leading Balkan general had told him ”NATO is granted membership relatively stronger engagement of the EU is true, however, the risk commentator, is the author of not tired of enlargement.” easily to countries considered less is today more essential than ever remains that any future EU Kosovo: What Everyone Needs to NATO and European Union lead- economically developed, such as before.” move to break the impasse in Know, published by Oxford ers have expressed concern in Bulgaria, Romania and the Baltic The report argues that the Bosnia may be stymied by a lack University Press. recent weeks over increasing eth- states. 18 • November 14 - 27, 2008 op-ed Prishtina’s Real Estate Problem Rumours Fly and that many find unacceptable. other non-professionals who earn The local press has picked up on a decent living; but not enough to this problem and is struggling to allow them to afford the new hous- promote what options they see as ing. All will be looking for afford- Relationships By Robert Tap available. Local politicians tend to able housing. see this problem in terms of con- All of a sudden, Prishtina will ife goes in cycles. Prishtina trolling prices through regulation. have more high-priced housing is in a period of rebirth and New construction is likely to stock than there are people to fill it. Suffer Lone of the major symptoms continue and prices are likely to Prices will stop growing; newly- of this is habitable real estate. One rise for the foreseeable future. built and recently-vacated units Dating – and being friends – isn’t child’s play in only needs to walk about the city or But wait. Just observe what is will be unoccupied for long periods happening in the global real estate of time. Construction will stop gaze at the hillsides to see that a Prishtina, thanks to gossiping tongues and active market; a version of that problem and buildings will be left half-con- large amount of housing is under will arrive in Prishtina soon, and structed. Construction workers’ imaginations. construction. This ranges from with potentially disastrous conse- pay, whose wages contribute to the small-scale efforts by families to quences. It could further outweigh city’s growth, will neither be enlarge their current housing to the seemingly-serious present situ- earned nor spent. Housing prices the massive apartment buildings ation. will start to drop. being built on the hillsides of Soon, the rapid influx of new The less serious drop will occur By Shega A’Mula Dragodan and elsewhere in town. people will become a trickle. The at the low end of the market. This In a year or so, thousands of new international and foreign agencies will help satisfy the needs of units will be finished and made will be fully staffed. While some newly-arrived Kosovars. But when hen I was a kid I used to play this game called broken tele- available for customers in the city. new enterprises will be coming, the anticipated rise in home values At the same time, Prishtina is growth will be significantly slower fails to materialize, these small- phone. A group of us would sit in a circle, the first kid experiencing an influx of money than now. New people from these scale family efforts to grow eco- Wwould think of a statement and then whisper it to the kid and people from other countries. organisations will not be able to fill nomically will disappear. And the sitting beside them. The statement would continue to be passed The newcomers are eager to con- all of the newly-built units. high-priced buildings will stand around the circle until it finally reached the end. “Sara hates Matt!” tribute to an economic, cultural Growth in Prishtina’s popula- empty. How long can owners hold the last receiver would yell. “No, silly! Sara has a cat!” the first kid and governmental environment tion of working-age people will those buildings without any would screech, as everyone laughed innocently at such a harmless that will make the recent changes most likely come from Kosovars income? Defaults will begin. mistake. permanent. These individuals coming to the city to earn a living. Suddenly, all this growth and the Not so harmless when you reach your twenties, I have to say, as I come from communities where the Some will be well educated and high values of real estate will continuously feel like I’m immersed in a city-wide episode of bro- economic situation makes the cur- able to establish themselves in the become a disaster. ken telephone. However, instead of; “Sara hates Matt!” it’s usually rent prices for housing in new organisations or as skilled Cycles. Nature will have taken something along the lines of; “Sara’s sleeping with Matt!” Prishtina seem inexpensive, and so laborers in trades or professions its course again. The people and The funny thing is that Sara was probably just enjoying a drink they are willing to pay higher that service this community. government of Prishtina should with Matt at a bar. Maybe she even let him drive her home. But the prices than the local population Often, they will either not want, or prepare for future problems now, whispers that travel through that invisible (and don’t forget broken) can now afford. As a result, real not be able to afford to live in the as the current ones will disappear telephone wire running through the bar, and many others in estate prices for both purchase and most expensive housing. Many as the new ones arise. Prishtina, will tell you another story. “Sara just wants Matt for his rental continue to grow at rates others will become service staff or money!” “Matt just wants to get back at his ex-girlfriend!” “They left together and she’s going over to his place!” Now I know that these are the repercussions of living in a small town. But what specifically troubles me is the fact that this broken telephone even exists. Don’t people have anything better to do when Letters to the Editor they’re out? Isn’t there enough alcohol stocked behind the bar, loud music spun by the DJ, and flirtatious glances being thrown around Letters to the Editor represent the voice of the readers. We read every letter we receive, and we appreciate the to occupy our hormone-blazing youth? interest and value the views of those who take the time to send us their comments. Anonymous letters will not be I’ve witnessed many relationships go awry thanks to the broken considered, nor does Prishtina Insight permit the use of pseudonyms in letters. We require a full name as well as telephone. Even more impressive is the fact that so many simple an email address for verification on all letters to be published, and make a special effort to print letters by conversations of mine with male acquaintances have automatically aggrieved parties named in Prishtina Insight stories. Otherwise, standards for publishing letters have more to do been blown up into relationships or late-night jaunts. All I have to with length, balance and variety than with any particular slant or viewpoint. If you can, please limit your letter to say is: quit staring at Sara and live your own lives people! That’s the fewer than 200 words. Due to space limitations, all letters are subject to abridgment and editing. Because of the only possible way we can all get along, even in this small town we volume of letters we receive, we cannot respond individually to the authors of letters we are unable to use. call Prishtina. Now, what if she actually was going home with him? What if Sara To send a letter by e-mail, please send to [email protected]. does decide to sleep with Matt? This subject, jam-packed with social If you prefer to send your letter by surface mail, please send to the following address: stigma and hypocrisy can be left to discuss later. But just remember, Letters to the Editor stay off the broken telephone. Prishtina Insight BIRN Mensa e studenteve, kati i pare 10000, Prishtina Kosovo Do you have something to say? Send it to us! Prishtina Insight wants to share your insights with our readers.

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mail your pieces to us at [email protected] Insight Prishtina Gashi for Krenar by photo The drummer of Croatian band Combinate, performing in this year’s Prishtina Jazz Festival. op-ed • November 14 - 27, 2008 19

Comment: Kosovo’s Son-in-Law Tourists Don’t Know What Viva la Obamamerica They Are Missing In Kosovo

asked numerous Kosovars where easy movement everywhere. By Casey Cooper Johnson they suggest he visit. They told Nevertheless, it is the genuine him to go to Albania or the coast hospitality of the Kosovars and By David Gotaas of Montenegro. When he insisted their optimistic view of the his morning my daughter, Jeta, interrupted my Sunday that he wanted to tour Kosovo, future that was most appealing to snoozing with an excited announcement in Albanian, they were perplexed, until he him. His hosts, Zeke Ceku and T“Daddy, Barack Obama is on the TV.” I laughed in bed with asked about the mountain ranges, the Rotarian Neshad Asllani, my wife. I had recently attempted to explain to the near-five-year- he beauties of snowcapped hiking, cave exploring, fishing, arranged for him to meet dozens old what a president is, what a country is, and then the most diffi- mountains, rushing water- skiing and historical monaster- of Kosovars, ranging from cult concept of all, what war is. Whether or not she understood, Tfalls, and Orthodox monas- ies. Then, they talked of the she could sense my excitement and happiness about this presi- municipal mayors to poor farm- teries are delightful, but it is the diverse splendors of Dragash, the ers and from leading educators to dent, Barack Obama. She has lived her whole life in a George genuine hospitality of its people Sharri Mountains, and the fun-loving youths. His attendance Bush world. And I feel like, in a way, so have I. that makes Kosovo a special expe- Rugova Canyon. Other places I am a child of the 60’s revolution in America, a time when great at the Mitrovica Rotary rience for the tourist. The vast noted as well worth visiting leaders rose and inspired the masses, a time when changing socie- Chartering Ceremony at the majority of North Americans included Stone Castle Vineyards; ty for the better was the whole point. It was the last great moment Hotel Palace was a tremendous and many Europeans perceive Germia Park; the Martyr’s Hill when Americans said; “Yes we can.” But those leaders were assas- highlight. While warming his Kosovo as a nation in the midst of and Ibrahim Rugova’s grave; the sinated. The Vietnam War raged on. And all too fast, the masses political and ethnic troubles and many Orthodox monasteries hands around an evening fire in of activists for peace and equality cut their hair, got ‘real’ jobs, and with little tourism value; they such as Pec, Decani, and Boge with seven Kosovars, he wrote off the whole movement as a youthful, idealistic pipe dream. need to be informed that Kosovo Gracanica; the battlefield of shared his delight with the serene These were our parents, and while we grew up listening to Jimi is a tourist delight. Kosovo Polje; Prizren’s Old City; beauty of the Rugova Valley, Hendrix and The Doors, we were not “breaking on through.” That When Americans mention to the Ulpiana archaeological site; where so few internationals visit. was just a failed dream our foolish parents had believed in, and their friends that they plan to the waterfalls at Mirusha and Drinking tea in a farmer’s kulla look how far it got. So we, the Generation of Cynicism, practiced visit Kosovo, the most common Drini i Bardhe; and even the after distributing dozens of blan- hiding under desks in school nuclear-war drills of the cold-war reaction is, “Why Kosovo?” They Mitrovica Bridge. kets donated by Rotarians to Reagan 80’s. We were apathetic through the Clinton 90’s as the have misguided images of the Often, visitors are surprised to needy families added to his enjoy- economy was stable, and the biggest scandals were Michael country based on what they have learn of Kosovo’s cultural ameni- ment. Strolling along streets Jackson’s pedophilia, O.J. Simpson’s murder case and of course, seen in the news media: political ties. They do not expect the qual- named after Mother Teresa, Bill Clinton’s sexual affairs. And we finally held our heads in utter unrest; ethic violence; a mine-rid- ity restaurants serving Turkish, Clinton, and William Walker with (yet cynical) shame and defeat through the past decade of global den landscape; extensive poverty; Italian, Albanian, and interna- his new Kosovar friends further Bush arrogance, a period marked by bullish foreign policy, govern- bombed buildings; and people tional cuisine. They are unaware amazed him as he began to under- ment corruption, corporate scandals, and French Fries being fleeing to a better life in the West. of the ballet, theatre, and music stand the tremendous love that renamed Freedom Fries. They have no idea that the schools that produce award-win- most Kosovars have for the peo- Like many others of the Generation of Cynicism, I have been Balkans is one of the safest ning talent. They are surprised ple that have helped them. inspired and excited by the promise of Barack Obama during his places in Europe, according to the campaign. His platform on the issues closely matches my ideals by the craftsmanship exhibited in Upon leaving Kosovo, Parrish UN Office on Drugs and Crime. silver filigree and traditional and priorities, and his approach is intelligent, humble, and…well, wrote a summary of his trip for They lack an understanding of clothing. They are stunned to see human. But I was not prepared at all for the huge wave of elation one of the many travel organiza- Kosovo’s rich history, where the young Muslim women in trench that would hit the world and myself on the night of his election. It tions to which he belongs, stating, ancient cultures of the Turkish, coats and attractive head cover- was truly a catharsis. I felt as though we Americans finally “Now is an excellent time to visit Illyrian, Bulgarian, Hellenic, ings conversing warmly with released a lifetime of shame for our nation’s dark history of slav- Kosovo. It is safe, affordable, and Slavic, and Germanic peoples friends in tight, form-fitted jeans. ery and racial oppression. We had overcome. And while Obama’s intersect. The intrepid tourists In October, Don Parrish, a very interesting. It is a rare opportu- election serves as a healing of our past, it also provides a glimmer who do come to Kosovo find its experienced traveler, made nity to see a new country develop- of hope for our future. Such hope, I have not known in my lifetime. geography, history, culture, and Kosovo the 200th country that he ing in real time. Frankly, it is an As Obama enters office, America faces a whole spectrum of hospitality far exceed their expec- had visited and he was amazed inspiring experience.” This colossal challenges. Restoring a crippled economy, solving an tations. and delighted. The amount of should be the answer to anyone energy crisis, resolving racial inequality and ethnic tensions, Many Kosovars do not realize construction and the freedom to asking “Why Kosovo?” enacting radical environmental reforms to address global warm- that their country is a precious walk the streets without fear ing, battling poverty, providing affordable healthcare and quality gem worthy of discovery by challenged his preconceived David Gotaas is the chairman education for all… Wow, it sounds a lot like the very same chal- tourists. Recently, a visitor iden- views. The compact size of the of Kosovo American Education lenges that Kosovo faces today. At least Kosovo isn’t stuck in two tified himself as a tourist and cities and the country made for Fund,KAEF. wars right now. And wouldn’t it be nice if Kosovo could take this new shift in American policy as a beacon for the kind of foundation we will lay here in this new nation? The USA has been Kosovo’s hero all along, but now the USA may just start being a good example. In the George Bush world, a government ridden with corruption and nepotism is perfectly acceptable. That’s how Bush got to be presi- dent himself. In the Obama world, we must demand integrity and service from our leaders in Kosovo, or elect new leaders. In the Bush world, selling off Kosovo’s public enterprises to foreign com- panies who pollute as they profit is perfectly acceptable. In an Obama world, we should demand that such companies clean up or get out, and we should lobby against building a giant coal-burning power plant, and instead invest in clean energy development for Kosovo. It’s time we think about how we leave this place for our grandchildren. That’s the Obama-world way. Two weeks ago, I would have cringed at the thought of my young children speaking with admiration - or even knowing the names - of politicians. But then again, I would not have imagined myself ever admiring a politician. And, of course, we all must be vigilant and highly demanding of Obama, but not cynical. I know this will be tough for the Generation of Cynics, many of whom have already begun predicting doom: “He will be assassinated like all the oth- ers.” “He won’t be able to deliver us the change he promises.” The very fact that he has inspired and mobilized so many young people to participate in our democracy is that change. The very fact that the world community has rejoiced in the prospect of a new, more considerate USA is that change. And aside from making smart choices, managing the government, and staying out of trou- ble, the president’s job is also to inspire us to believe in possibili- ties and to work for that change in our daily lives, on a grassroots level. The corporate-oil and war machine does not rule our coun- try. We do. The election of Barack Obama does not guarantee us change. It encourages all of us to make it happen. Photo by Petrit Rrahmani for Prishtina Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit by Photo 20 • November 14 - 27, 2008 fun & puzzle

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Easy Down 14 15 16 25 1: Way off 2: Butler, for Gable 17 18 19 93 5 3: Small rabbit 20 21 22 23 4: Blackthorn shrubs 61 5: Attainment levels 2975 24 25 26 6: Item placed on andirons 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 4813 7: Bailiwick 34 35 36 37 38 8: Yin's complement 8347 9: Funny business 6239 40 41 42 43 10: Cheesy meals 11: Fail to include 44 45 46 47 48 328 12: Memo 49 50 51 52 13: Scratched (out) 97 21: Bro and sis 53 54 55 23: Wrench, e.g. 25: Extreme hardship Medium 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 27: Slumps 28: Maui greeting 64 65 66 67 72 30: Stories 68 69 70 32: Stager 37 51 4 33: Diamond weight 71 72 73 56 36: Paleontological preservative 79 6 Across 20: Give a makeup exam to 44: It might be stuffed or 38: Lip-___ 22: Stirred up cuffed 40: Bridge supports 1: Circle sections 24: Basketry twig 46: Musical symbols 42: Accentuates 5: Acapulco attraction 26: Minor player, so to speak 48: Campaigned for office 45: Harness race pace 39810: Unaccompanied 27: Japanese honorific 49: Tornado siren, e.g. 51: Foal's father 14: Put one over on 29: Lure 47: Place for the catbird? 52: List abbr. 8115: Ship's positioning 31: Kind of boom 50: Minor adjustments 53: Madame of the sty system 34: Peak stat 54: Semimonthly tides 55: What predators do 6495316: All over the place 35: Jamaican export 17: Flute or saxophone 56: Sprinkles, as paint 56: Rational 37: Buddhist blessers 61: Gown features, often 25 variety 57: Forepart of a boat 39: Bearded mammal 64: Nutmeg covering 18: Spy 58: Subordinate staffer 41: Cobbler's supply 65: Plant products 19: Something to build on 43: Nimble 67: Spoken 59: Ancient character

Hard On November 14… to the surface of the Moon. parks and museums and to run most 1971 - Enthronement of Pope government offices with skeleton Events Shenouda III as Pope of Alexandria staffs. 18 1971 - Mariner program: Mariner 9 2001 - War in Afghanistan: Afghan 1862 - American Civil War: President reaches Mars, becoming the first Northern Alliance fighters takeover 53 6Abraham Lincoln approves General spacecraft to orbit another planet. the capital Kabul. Ambrose Burnside's plan to capture 1975 - Spain abandons Western 2002 - Argentina defaults on an $805 the Confederate capital at Richmond, Sahara. million World Bank payment. 479Virginia, leading to the Battle of 1990 - After German reunification, the 2002 - The United States House of Fredericksburg. Federal Republic of Germany and the Representatives votes not to create an 8691918 - Czechoslovakia becomes a Republic of Poland sign a treaty con- independent commission to investi- republic. firming the Oder-Neisse line as the gate the September 11 attacks. 1921 - The Communist Party of Spain border between Germany and Poland. 784 is founded. 1991 - Cambodian Prince Norodom Holidays and observances 1922 - The BBC begins radio service in Sihanouk returns to Phnom Penh 61 7the United Kingdom. after thirteen years of exile. Roman festivals - Equorum Probatio 1952 - First regular UK singles chart 1991 - In Royal Oak, Michigan, a fired (The official cavalry parade of the 31 5 published by the New Musical United States Postal Service employee Equites) Express. goes on a shooting rampage, killing India - Birthday of Jawaharlal Nehru: 1957 - The Apalachin Meeting outside four and wounding five before commit- Children's Day 842Binghamton, New York is raided by ting suicide. United States - National Children's law enforcement, and many high level 1995 - A budget standoff between Book Week begins 59 Mafia figures are arrested. Democrats and Republicans in the U.S. Colombia - "Day of the Colombian 1969 - Apollo program: NASA launches Congress forces the federal govern- Woman" Created by sudokunine.com Apollo 12, the second manned mission ment to temporarily close national World Diabetes Day

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253648719 981647235 369472518 debate • November 14 - 27, 2008 21 Life in Kosovo Debates Kosovo’s Judicial System an Kosovo’s citizens expect to have their cases dealt Cwith in Kosovo’s courts without disruption by corrupt judges and prosecutors? Given that property issues remain some of the biggest judicial disputes in Kosovo, why haven’t prosecutors initiated any cases against illegal construction? Is the judicial sys- tem in Kosovo independent from politics? These were the questions raised in the latest “Life in Kosovo” debate, moderated by Betim Musliu, BIRN’s judicial reporter. The panelists who par- ticipated in the debate were: Hilmi Zhitia, head of the Office of the Public Prosecutor of Kosovo, Nekibe Kelmendi, Kosovo’s Minister of Justice, Rexhep Haxhimusa, head of Kosovo’s Supreme Court Kujtim Kerveshi, legal expert. There are one hundred seventy thousand unresolved cases in though she has not been suspend- pointed out that illegal building issues through courts. tors were under to charge a Kosovo’s courts that have been ed from her job. is a phenomenon present in all According to her, greater finan- teenager who tried to enter into piling up since the end of the war. Gjonaj explained that those countries in transition. cial support from the government the Prime Minster’s home with Because of the delay in bringing cases were more urgent than oth- “This is more an administra- and better working conditions for attempted murder. a legal resolution to these cases ers. “It is completely reasonable tive issue and a competence of prosecutors would ensure more The second case is that of many of them are no longer and lawful to deal with cases of the urban planning office than accountability and better results. Ahmet Alishani, advisor to viable; those who were indicted urgency,” said Gjonaj. the prosecutor’s office. The prose- The Judicial Council of Kosovo Nexhat Daci, the former speaker are relieved of any need to In addition, all the hearings cutor’s office can only react if is a regulator of the judicial sys- of Parliament. Due to political answer the charges against them. took place in her office, where evidence shows that a certain tem. This organ was meant to be pressures, his case remained in However, this debate revealed a Gjonaj played the role of judge as building was made without independent, transparent and the public prosecutor’s office for concrete case where people sped well as lawyer for most of her respecting the rules of construc- unbiased. Yet many point out that six months without his dossier up the resolution of their case by clients. tion.” this institution is highly influ- being opened, BIRN sources paying a bribe to a judge. While the majority of judicial While illegal construction in enced by political interference. In reveal. An investigative report done cases remain on a judge’s docket Kosovo’s capital is rampant, addition, the membership of this While Zhitia acknowledged by Betim Musliu revealed how for months or years, the cases according to Zhitia, the prosecu- Council is such that it is in con- that the case stayed in the office Zahide Gjonaj, a judge for civil that Gjonaj dealt with were tion has not identified any build- tradiction with the norms of for six months, he didn’t confirm cases in Prishtina’s District finalised in 15 minutes to one ing which fails to follow the nec- Europe, making it more difficult whether the case was subject to Court who deals with marital hour. This confirms the domi- essary regulations. to integrate in the EU. political interference. issues, was directly challenged nant perception among ordinary A report from the Anti- According to Kerveshi, in order For Kerveshi, political interfer- for having disposed of six of her Kosovars that in order to get a Corruption Agency in Kosovo for the Council to be fully inde- ence cannot only be understood cases without even registering case finalised you need to bribe reveals that in one and a half pendent, it should not have any as ‘requests’ from politicians to them with the court clerk. A as many court officials as possi- years Kosovo’s budget has lost 36 member from the executive or the prosecutors. “The tendency to hundred euro note was found - ble. million euros due to irresponsi- legislative branches, but that is keep the judicial system in an apparently forgotten - in one of Contradicting Gjonaj, the head ble prosecution in the country. not the case in Kosovo. unstable situation is also a form the files that Gjonaj was dealing of the Supreme Court, Rexhep Haxhimusa stressed that, “The Council should include of political interference done to with. This information was con- Haxhimusa, declared that there despite all criticism, the judicial neither deputies nor the Minister maintain a shaky system.” firmed by the judicial inspector is a law establishing the proce- system in Kosovo cannot be con- of Justice. This is one of the who is investigating Gjonaj, dures for the resolution of civil sidered a failure. chief conditions set forth in the and penal cases, according to “Don’t forget that five hundred Ahtisaari’s Plan which was not “The tendency to keep “There are some 635 which cases cannot be dealt with ninety thousand cases are termi- implemented in this sector by our in that short a time period. nated within a year. Whether leaders.” the judicial system in an cases that have been According to Haxhimusa, they are done properly or not, Haxhimusa said that he does unstable situation is prescribed in the Supreme there are some 635 cases that have this is to be questioned further, not know of any case of political been prescribed in the Supreme but they do finish!” interference in the judicial sys- also a form of political Court because of Court because of excessive delay. For Nekibe Kelmendi, the jus- tem in Kosovo. However, two interference done to excessive delay” Asked whether Zhitia himself tice minister, this high number of cases were mentioned by other sees the large number of illegal cases brought to Kosovo’s courts panelists as having elements of maintain a shaky system” Rexhep Haxhimusa, head of buildings in Prishtina, and shows that citizens have not lost political interference. Kosovo’s Supreme Court. whether they ought to be the their confidence in the judicial One of these cases was the Kujtim Kerveshi, legal expert. prosecutor’s responsibility, Zhitia system; they do try to resolve pressure that police and prosecu- Advertise! Reach out to our readers: influential decision makers, high-spending householders and foreign visitors.

038 24 33 58 [email protected] 22 • November 14 - 27, 2008 timeout

Caffe “Punto” Sokoli dhe Mirusha Jazz Bar KINO ABC Every Monday Every Friday and Saturday DJ Jazzoterric Live Jazz Music Quantum of Solace

Betrayed by Vesper, the SKENA UP FESTIVAL woman he loved, 007 fights the urge to make his latest mission per- Friday, November 21, 22:30 sonal. Pursuing his deter- mination to uncover the “Glass managerie” by Tennessee Williams truth, Bond and M inter- Directed by: Nina Nikolik, (Macedonia) rogate Mr. White who reveals that the organiza- Saturday, November 22, 20:00 tion which blackmailed Ballet “Sleeping beauty” by P.I. Tchaikovsky, Vesper is far more com- Directed and choreographed by: Silvia Tomova plex and dangerous than anyone had imagined. Monday, November 24, 22:30 Forensic intelligence links a Mi6 traitor to a bank account in Haiti where a case of mistaken identity introduces Bond to the beautiful but feisty Camille, a “New step” woman who has her own vendetta. Camille leads Bond straight to Dominic Directed by: Maxine Lyle & Martin Wilkins, (USA) Greene, a ruthless business man and major force within the mysterious Tuesday, November 25, 22:30 organization. On a mission that leads him to Austria, Italy and South America, Bond discov- “Godfather” ers that Greene is conspiring to take total control of one of the world's most Directed by: Erson Zymberi, (Kosova) important natural resources, and is forging a deal with the exiled General Medrano. Wednesday, November 26, 22:30 In a minefield of treachery, murder and deceit, Bond allies with old friends in “The Winged Fragments for our Children” a battle to uncover the truth. As he gets closer to finding the man responsible Directed by: Anton Juan, PH.D. Filipine for the betrayal of Vesper, 007 must reside one step ahead of the CIA, the ter- rorists and even M, to unravel Greene's sinister plan and stop his organization. Thursday, November 27, 20:00 Experience the magic of British agent, James Bond – 007 in Prishtina ”30° 60° 90°” For ticket reservations call: 038 243 117, 038 222 086 Directed by: Federico Dimitri, Piera Gianotti, Emanuel Rosenberg & Kristin Vodusek (Italy) Saturday, November 29, 20:00 NATIONAL GALLERY Premiere night of “Couple Martin”, by Eugene Ionesco National Gallery, Prishtina Directed by: Bekim Lumi Georg Baselitz exhibition Baselitz is famous for his upside-down images For ticket reservations call: and is seen as a revolutionary painter as he draws the viewer’s attention to his works by mak- 038 224 397 / 243 930 or 044 430 693 ing them think and sparking their interest. A ticket for Skena UP theatre festival costs 2 euros Housing Problems – Social Cinema

Film Screenings at Tingëll Tangëll Bar

18.11 - Lynne Ramsay: Rat Catcher, 20.11 - Lazar Stojanovic: Plastic Jesus & NATIONAL Zelmir Zelnik: Black Film THEATRE Films start at 18:30 Friday, November 14 - 20:00 DEPO “Uuuuh” by Gerard Every Friday Vàsquez DJ Cabi Directed by Isë Qosja Fatime Kosumi If you're up for spontaneously running into that special Monday, someone for an intimate chitchat, or getting your dance on November 17 -20:00 to the most addicting sounds, then make you're way to Depo, “Fourth Sister” by Janusz joining DJ Cabi and singer Fatime Kosumi for a good time Glowacki that will keep you coming for more. Directed by Agim Sopi Thursday, Spray Club ZEBRA November 20 - 20:00 Every Wednesday Saturday, November 15th Ballet “Sleeping Beauty” Rock band NA will ensure you get your dose of hard rock by P.I. Tchaikovsky, anthems, but will make sure to not skip your favourite 90s Choreography and directed UTILITY rock ballads, which will most definitely ignite many classic memories. is the latest project of Dj/Producers Toton and Faton Dolaku, Think Guns’n' Roses "Don't Cry" or "Sweet Child O’ Mine". incorporating elements of full on Progressive house in a bowl of Psychedelic Techno with a punk attitude. This duo will per- form brand new material from the forthcoming album entitled NEMESIS. ZANZI BAR Not for the faint hearted. Every Friday Goya and Naka are no strangers to the Kosovar dance scene: Zanzi Band the undisputed champions of underground house have provid- Want to spend a night singing your heart out to your most ed an excellent choice of music to the audience over the past beloved musical tracks? Join musicians and friendly faces years. at Zanzi for a night of fun-filled interaction and dance- Get ready for an awesome long night. packed amusement. directory • November 14 - 27, 2008 23 Business Directory Embassies and Liaison You can get your copy of Prishtina Insight at any of the businesses listed below: Offices in Prishtina American Italian Address: “Nazim Hikmet” no. 30 Address: “Azem Jashanica” no.5 Odyssey/bistro Restaurants Travel Agencies Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Qyteza Pejton “Sejdi Kryeziu” Str. Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Prishtina PJATA 044 556 444 ALTAVIA Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 Gazmend Zajmi Str. no. 1 Luan Haradinaj str. no. 27 Austrian 038 220 739 Mexicano 038 543543 Address: “Ahmet Krasniqi” no. 22 Japanese “Abdyl Frasheri” Str. Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina TIFFANY 044 149 783 BELI Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Address: “Rexhep Malaj” no. 43 038/244040 044 247 708; 044 113 710 10000 Prishtina [email protected]; Belgian Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 SAMURAI Cafés & Bars Address: “Taslixhe” I, 23 A Fehmi Agani Str. Air Kosova 10000 Pristina Luxemburg 044/318-069 91-shi - THE NINETY ONE 038 246 510; 038 247 273 Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 Address: “Metush Krasniqi” no. 14 Luan Haradinaj Str. [email protected] British Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 TOKYO 038 221-991 Address: “Ismail Qemajli” no. 6 Prishtina Bekim Berisha Str. no. 2 Kosova Reisen Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 044/988-578, 044/373-537 STRIP DEPOT 038 241 111; 038 243 446; Prishtina Rexhep Luci Str. no. 6/1 [email protected]; Malaysian Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 EX 038 222- 888 www.kosovareisen.net Address: “Bedri Shala” no. 48 Fehmi Agani Str. no. 3/8 Bulgarian 10000 Prishtina 044 157 039; 044 557 700 EUROKOHA Address: “Ismail Qemajli” no. 12 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 Hotels 038 249 185 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 MOZAIK www.flyksa.com Prishtina Norwegian Sylejman Vokshi Str. VICTORY Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Address: “Sejdi Kryeziu” no. 6 038 247 634 Pashko Vasa Str. no. 3 10000 Prishtina 038 543 257 Danish Cars Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 PISHAT Address: “Nene Teresa” no. 2 Qamil Hoxha Str. ROYAL LIMO PRISHTINA 10000 Prishtina Saudia Arabian 038 345 556 Pashko Vasa Str. Rent a car with a driver Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Address: Dardania SU 7, building 038 220 902; 038 220 903 038 580 499 Dutch 2, #1 TE KOMITETI www.limopristina.com Address:” Xhemal Berisha” no. 12 Qamil Hoxha Str. 5/2 GRAND HOTEL Velania, 10000 Prishtina 10000 Prishtina 038 249 663 Nena Tereze Str. BAHOLLI Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 038 220 210 038 540 872; 044 153 772 RRON [email protected]; Finnish Slovenian Veternik AFA [email protected] Address: “Eduard Lir” no. 50 Address: “Anton Ceta” no. 6 038/ 533 820 Aki Kelmendi Str. no. 15 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina 038 225 226; 225 227 AUTO MITA Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 RINGS 038 229 782 Phone: +381 (0) 38 223 775 Luan Haradinaj Str. PRINCI I ARBERIT French Swedish 226 198/ 300 333 Kodra e Trimave AUTO CLINIC AGA Address: “Ismail Qemajli” no. 67 Address: “Ekrem Rexha” no. 6 038 244-244; 244-442 049/044 152 277 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 506 Prishtina Prishtina Sunny Hill, West Area SARA Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 Phone: +381 (0) 245 795 038/500 506 Maliq pash Gjinolli Str. Taxi 038 236-203; 044 238-765 Greek Swiss Address: “Ismail Qemajli” no. 68 SYMPHONY TITANIC Address: “Adrian Krasniqi” no. 11 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Upliana C/7 BACI 038 232 322; 044 232 322 10000 Prishtina Prishtina 038/ 548 271 Mother Teresa Str. Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 038 548-356; 548-357 ROBERTI Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 039 500 006; 044 111 999 German Turkish Sandwich Bars PEJTON HOTEL Adress: “Azem Jashanica” no. 17 Address: “Ismail Qemajli” no. 59 Pashko Vasa Str. no. 14 A VELANIA Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 AROMA 044 225 325; 038 225 325 Prishtina Prishtina “Rexhep Luci” Str. PRISHTINA Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044 038 244-125 Vaso Pasha Str. no. 20 VICTORY www.hotelprishtina.com 038 555 333 VALENTINO 038 223 284 Would you like to have your Luan Haradinaj Str. 038 222-062 AMBASADOR Vets & Pets business listed in our directory? Adrian Krasniqi Str. AGORA PITBULL Send us a suggestion at [email protected] Luan Haradinaj Str. REAL Ulipana /3/A7 or call us at 038 24 33 58 044 310- 333 Pashko Vasa Str. no. 136 044 125 744

Alternative Directory We recommend you 15 alternative businesses and activities: Leather products: sandals, slip- Notebooks covered in fabric from Wine tours with wine tasting tips International English language http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ pers, purses, phone cases old hand-woven aprons, from local expert school with native English teach- kapi_kosovo/ [email protected] tablecloths, clothing etc. [email protected] ers from pre-school to age 13 (English) 044 790901; 044 111350 [email protected] (English and Albanian) [email protected] (Albanian and some French) 044 661797; 044 790901 044 162230 (English) International Women’s Club (English, French and Albanian) One-hour walking tours of Prishtina of Prishtina Kulla e Mazrekajve near Deçan giving the historical and cultural Rural cottage stays, tours http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ Available for seminars, Night cream made with honey, highlights of the city and traditional agricultural iwc_pristina/ parties, etc. beeswax and propolis. [email protected] crafts near Peja [email protected] [email protected] 044 661797; 044 431438 [email protected] Books and movies of a vast choice 038 243918; 044 609479 0390 330098 (English and Albanian) 044 127783 Labirint bookshop (English, Albanian and Serbian) (Albanian and Serbian) (English, French and Albanian) Address: Luan Haradinaj 16/3 Volunteering opportunity for 038 738 090 Locally-made greetings cards Walks in Kosovo natural areas with native English speakers teaching Kosovo Association for Parents incorporating silver filigree flowers a view to developing recognized after-school clubs in local primary International – network of interna- Innovative new bonnets made from [email protected] footpaths schools tional parents who share informa- the embroidered ‘plis’ hats 044 661797 or 044 799673 [email protected] 044 661797 tion about living with a family in 044 256711 (English and Albanian) (English Albanian and Serbian) (English and Albanian) Kosovo (English and Albanian) 24 • November 14 - 27, 2008 marketing