THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, FEBRUARY 11-12, 2012 www.theaustralian.com.au TRAVEL & INDULGENCE 3

{ DESTINATION } Masterpieces and makeovers Walk to the animals in the national capital with a plump mattress topper, A heritage hotel in downtown duvet and crisp linen providing is having its own grand renaissance an ideal haven after a soothing soak in the newly installed tub. Elementsofthehotel’sjazzage SHARON FOWLER history can be found at intervals around the property. The small drive from the NGA, is still wood-panelled reception lounge Olims, the name it has carried evokes a glimpse of days gone by STATE since 1989. Yet that is just one of with high-backed armchairs, OF PLAY the hotel’s many guises. It first high brick fireplace and a glass opened in 1927 as the Ainslie, its divider panel featuring an construction coinciding with the etched lyrebird, the hotel’s completion of Parliament House. original symbol. I AM standing before a Madonna Walter Burley Griffin, Can- The upstairs corridors are and Child canvas, its paint deftly berra’s designer, and his wife, whitewashed, light and airy, with applied more than half a millen- Marion Mahony Griffin, were framed photographs illustrating nium ago by Venetian artist just two of the hotel’s esteemed the property’s history. Wood- Carlo Crivelli. Mary is draped in original guests. It was also known framed panelled windows in scarlet and an intricately pat- for many years as Spendloves many guestrooms overlook the terned gold mantle as she cradles Hotel (after the then owners) and central paved courtyard edged baby Jesus. Behind is a landscape served a stint as a home to female with sprays of vibrant fresias, the that morphs from sumptuous to public servants during World central fountain that has stood sparse; fleshy fruit dot the edge of War II. since 1927 and the restaurant, the canvas. Built in ‘‘English deco’’ style, now just a year old, where the It is one of several such works, it’s recognised on the Australian seasonal tasting menu includes the mothers all delicate and Institute of Architects’ Register entrees of scallops with prawn refined, the babies cherubic with of Significant 20th-Century tortellini and salmon with caper dimpled cheeks and russet- Architecture and is classified by salsa; for mains, grilled salmon or topped heads. A silver-haired the National Trust. porterhouse steak with mush- Southern Ocean Lodge, perched high above the dramatic coastline of Kangaroo Island, is one of Australia’s new breed of elite retreats couple to my left are discussing rooms and hand-cut chips. the virtues of this masterpiece in Be sure also to visit the for 40 years, is a former wildlife ence of the man-made and natural hushed tones. The young chap to Elements of National Library near the Close encounters ranger and deputy mayor who can have such an overwhelming my right has a more upfront take the jazz age can National Gallery, where a fasci- runs bespoke tours through his effect on the senses that when on the subject matter for his nating exhibition, Handwritten, on wild and company Exceptional Kangaroo Oprah Winfrey’s Chicago audi- bemused female companion: be found around on show to March 18, features wonderful Island. He urges us early on to let ence arrived here in 2010 on their ‘‘Sausage babies.’’ the property original letters and manuscripts him know if we have any particu- all-expenses-paid Australian tour, The painting is on show in the by historic luminaries including Kangaroo Island lar passions — wildflowers, birds, some guests burst into tears of Renaissance exhibition of 15th The centrally located Copernicus, Darwin, Einstein, history — and he will factor those happiness. ‘‘One woman even and 16th-century works at the 128-room hotel, a short drive Mozart, Bach and Goethe. KENDALL HILL into commentary and activities. came up and gave me a hug,’’ National Gallery of Australia in from the NGA, is nearing com- On arrival at Kingscote airport says Hayley. Canberra. On loan from the pletion of a major revamp that Sharon Fowler was a guest we are met by a fleet of vehicles The itinerary allows ample time Accademia Carrara in Bergamo, has seen it spruced up with new of Accor. THE things you learn on a luxury and whisked away down the high- to enjoy ’s comforts, in- Italy, the collection features por- furniture, floor coverings and getaway. We 20 travellers are two way over Ice Age sand dunes for a cluding daily cocktails and cana- traits, altarpieces and scenes by facilities. Guests have a choice of days into an indulgent week-long picnic lunch at blowy Bales Beach pesasthesunmeltsintothemallee Italian masters such as Botticelli, standard or superior rooms, Checklist escape when we are informed, and a chaperoned walk among forest, and exploring the best as- Bernini, Titian and Raphael. studio lofts or two-bedroom quite unexpectedly, that the male Australian sea lions. Every excur- sets of this 80,000ha wilderness. With thousands of viewers so , which we discover Renaissance package from $229 pelican has no penis. sion is an enjoyable lesson in natu- At the Kelly Hill Caves we are led far, the exhibition is proving a hit, are particularly spacious with a night in a refurbished room, According to Indiana James, ral history. The most salient thing into a magical underworld of stal- yet it’s by no means the only two living areas. Decor is full buffet breakfast and two we learn about sea lions is that actites, stalagmites and helictites. tickets to the exhibition. Stay the Kangaroo Island artist, tea- rebirth in town. My family and I conservative but tasteful in two nights and receive $50 cher and renowned expert on all they are big carnivores, with huge At Scotts Cove we stand atop are in Canberra to sample neutral earthy tones with towards food and beverage. things Pelecanidae, genital drag teeth, that move much faster than 300m-high sheer granite cliffs Mercure ’s Rena- splashes of burgundy in cushions Valid to April 9. More: would impede the bird’s aerody- SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION humans on sand. ‘‘So if one comes above lapis waters as a sea eagle issance package. To most locals, and throws. A highlight is the (02) 6243 0000; namics so it has evolved without Meeting the locals in KI’s Seal Bay Conservation Park at us we grab Hayley and stand plies the sky above us. And at Cape the Mercure in Braddon, a short supremely comfortable king bed, accorhotels.com. one. Pelicans practise something behind her,’’ Wickham grins. Borda Lighthouse, Australia’s called cloacal mating instead, We are told to act ‘‘boring’’ to shortest (it’s on a very tall cliff), the ‘‘where you just roll around until deter animals from coming to play collected logs of 19th and 20th- the right stuff goes in the right but they are preoccupied anyway century keepers reveal the terrible hole’’, James deadpans to his wide- with nuzzling in the sand and fates of pioneering people, includ- eyed audience. ‘‘Isn’t that the way bodysurfing the waves, occasion- ing a Captain Woodward who we all did it the first time?’’ ally leaping from the water like went for a walk in the bush one Well I never. Of course, the electrocuted logs. We are so close day, got jabbed in the eye with a whole point of being here on at one point that when one of the stray stick, went blind and died. South Australia’s Kangaroo Island adult creatures sneezes, I see the Theexpeditioniswellbalanced, is to explore nature’s wonders, red mucus fly out of its snout. Mostly, varying from a day spent touring in tooth and claw and all that, and however, they are extremely cute Kangaroo Island’s renowned to become acquainted with this and quitehappy topose forphotos. natural producers to a Zodiac zip unique corner of the Australian En route to the lodge Wickham along the coastline and a lecture backyard. Pelican penises, or the plies us with island trivia. It is by Dr Peggy Rismiller, the world’s lackthereof,arejustoneofthesur- home to 780 plant species, 50 of leading authority on echidnas. prising truths we will learn during which are found nowhere else. But if the lure of the lodge a week of outdoor education- CRAIG MALIN SATC Themoststrikingis theonewecan proves irresistible, it is OK to stay meets-indoor indulgence. Cape Borda Lighthouse A tammar wallaby see out the vehicle windows now: put and ponder the wonders of The seven-night expedition Xanthorrhoea tateana, Tate’s grass nature from your suite, or the kicks off in late July when KI can bar, the excellent kitchen and 21 states, only a handful know each tree, with its plume of spiky blades Great Room, or the infinity plunge The courtyard of the revamped Mercure Hotel, a short drive from the National Gallery be wild and windy one day, calm seriously stunning suites arrayed other beforehand, but by day two a splayed like a 70s mood lamp. The pool. I call it the Diana option, and sunny the next. But fickle above the cinematic beauty of real camaraderie starts to develop. sight of a koala in a manna gum after a lucky member of our group weather is of little consequence Hanson Bay. It helps that we are staying in beside the road sparks a lesson in with that name who stayed in one when ensconced at Southern The company of your co- dreamy surrounds where no guest chlamydia; apparently koalas har- morning and was rewarded by the Ocean Lodge, one of the nation’s expeditioners is another big need lift a finger and free-flowing bour seven strains, five of which sight of 20 dolphins surfing in China Tours new breed of elite coastal retreats. attraction. There’s a testimonial wine kindles conviviality, but still. cause sterility. KI koalas, relocated Hanson Bay. Perhaps not strictly The experience is not cheap but on the lodge’s website from a guest Like-minded travellers make such here last century in an ark-type in the spirit of the KI safari, but a 22 DAYS AMAZING CHINA guests are guaranteed to be pam- who writes: ‘‘If you want a memory a difference. exercise to save the species, have totally reasonable response to INCLUDING 5 DAY YANGTZE RIVER CRUISE pered to their heart’s and of a lifetime, Expedition Week is Outings are led by genial resi- the other two strains, which such cosseting surrounds. FULLY INCLUSIVE, FLYING FROM $4,230* QANTAS OR CATHAY PACIFIC stomach’s content. Picture unfold- very special. Be pampered, wined dent naturalist Craig Wickham explains why there are now an Beijing, Xian, Suzhou, Wuxi, Shanghai, Hangzhou, Wuhan, ing days of slow-cooked Southern and dined, meet really nice people, and the engaging Hayley Baillie estimated 27,000 of them munch- Kendall Hill was a guest of Yangtze River, Three Gorges, Chongqing, Guilin, Hong Kong be busy or do nothing. You will who, with husband James, created ing their way across the island. A comprehensive grand tour of China that showcases its amazing historical heritage, rich Ocean abalone, salty-sweet South Southern Ocean Lodge. culture, natural wonders, charming landscapes and dramatic architectural changes. Rock lamb ham and local marron never forget it.’’ this remarkable lodge. The Baillies Meanwhile, up in the sky, two 2012 Guaranteed Departures: Mar 25, Apr 22, May 20, Jun 17, Jul 22, Aug 12, Sep 9, Oct 14, Nov 4 (among many other gastronomic This past guest is spot-on about started Expedition Week at sister wedge-tailed eagles scan the earth HOT DEALS OR 28 DAYS MAGNIFICENT CHINA FROM $5,580* treats) washed down with a bot- the nice people. Our bunch of property Capella, on NSW’s Lord for endemic tammar wallabies, Checklist FREE CHINA TOUR tomless selection of fine SA wines. fellow travellers hails from four Howe Island, where it ran for five their preferred snack food. $899^ CHINA GOLDEN ROUTE 9 DAYS PRESENTATION IN Regular feasting in the lodge res- years until Hayley opted for a The aptly named Great Room Expedition Kangaroo Island will ON taurant is offset with worthy exer- change of scenery. provides an unforgettable intro- run from July 28-August 4. From Beijing, Xian, Shanghai 18 FEBRUARY 2012 - Includes soft-sleeper train trip - Beijing to Xian PLEASE CALL TO RSVP cise in the form of bracing hikes, For the past two years it has duction to Southern Ocean Lodge. $6900 a person twin-share, Regular feasting includes air transfers ex-Adelaide, wildlife encounters and even a been held on KI where the size of This vast, glass-walled gallery, $699^ CHINA HIGHLIGHTS 9 DAYS

in the lodge all expedition activities and Freecall 1800 816 828 Lic No 2TA5908 spot of speleology. the island (at 155km long, it’s strikingly furnished with custom- Beijing, Hangzhou, Wuxi, Suzhou, Shanghai lectures, lodge accommodation, FREE www.nexusholidays.com.au restaurant is offset almostasbigasBali)andthediver- made pieces and a rotating fire- ^ Per person twin-share, excludes int’l airfare CALL US FOR A At the end of each day’s expedi- all meals and drinks. More: Suite 203 Level 2 Manning Building tioning there is the lodge to look sity of wildlife and environments place suspended from the ceiling, Guaranteed Departures: 2012 CHINA & ASIA with worthy (02) 9918 4355; Feb 12, Mar 11, Apr 8, May 13, Jun 10, BROCHURE 451 Pitt Street Sydney NSW 2000 forward to; the sunny welcome exercise make for a compelling to-do list. seems to float on its ridge above southernoceanlodge.com.au; Jul 1, Aug 12, Sep 23, Oct 21, Nov 11, Dec 9 Mon-Fri 9:00am-5:30pm, Sat-Sun 10:00am-3:00pm (always by first name), the open Wickham, who has lived on KI the sea. The spectacular conflu- baillielodges.com.au.

Experience the Back-Roads Touring diff erence...

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* * Back-roads, not freeways Authentic local experiences LA BELLE FRANCE 9 days/8y nighg ts from $2780 TUSCAN TREATS 9 days/8yg nights from $2790 Unlike large coaches, our Mercedes-Benz mini- We take you to places away from the coaches can go anywhere a car can. Access the standard tourist trails. Venturing beyond the If you yearn for rich culture, sumptuous Savour the culture of this region in smallest town squares, country lanes and medieval tourist façade gets food, iconic architecture, stunning true Italian style. This remarkable tour villages full of character. you closer to the real chateaux and fi ne wines, then La Belle reveals typically overlooked Tuscan locals and their foods, France is a delightful discovery for both Treasures and is fl exible enough to Small Group Sizes crafts and culture. the fi rst time visitor and those who’ve allow for a cappuccino stop or a stroll With a maximum of just 16 passengers, you’ll enjoy a already fallen in love with France. in the Cinque Terre. more comfortable and fl exible travel experience. A journey for Highlights: Monet’s garden of Highlights: Relax in a villa in the Giverny, Cider tasting in Normandy, heart of Tuscany, cook lunch with an Charming your palate Chateaux visits in the Loire, WWII Italian chef, wine tasting in Chianti, Accommodation Many of our tours landing beaches in Normandy. explore the Cinque Terre and discover We only stay at quality local have a lunch or dinner Florence with a local guide. accommodation that refl ects included at one of the the character and culture of your region’s authentic local restaurants. ALL TOURS INCLUDE: ✓Accommodation ✓Many meals ✓Expert Driver/Guide ✓Mercedes-Benz Mini-Coach Transportation ✓Many entrance fees destination. We’ll never stay at A favourite ‘Culinary Encounter’ is the large hotel chains. Rick Stein’s restaurant in Padstow.

Order or download your FREE 2012 brochure today! For over 30 other UK and European Call 1300 100 410 or see your travel agent. www.backroadstouring.com.au *Travel restrictions and conditions apply. Prices and taxes are correct as at 4 Jan 12 and are subject to change without notice. Prices and special offer quoted are on sale until 28 Feb 12 unless otherwise stated or sold out prior. Must be booked and paid in full by 28 Feb 12 to receive 5% off per person. Prices are per person and are subject itineraries including World War I & II battlefi eld tours visit www.backroadstouring.com.au to availability. Accommodation is based on twin share. Seasonal surcharges and blackout dates may apply depending on date of travel. Prices shown are fully inclusive of taxes, levies, government charges and other applicable fees. Flights not included unless otherwise stated. Payments made by credit card will incur a surcharge. Prices shown are for payments made by cash in store. Multiple tour departure dates are available during 2012. Earlybird offer: Quote promo code at the time of booking: EB2BRT5.0%.Cannot be combined with any other offer or special deal. Offer is only available on new bookings. Offer applies to 2012 departures. ^Savings based booking for 2 people on the Tuscan Treats tour. The tours and products advertised by Back-Roads Touring Co for UK & Europe above have no affiliation or connection with Backroads Touring Company BN:17236514 of East Brisbane Sold by Top Deck Tours Pty Ltd. Travel Agents QLD Lic 3390876. wee_11feb_15x10_BR_AUS