THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, FEBRUARY 11-12, 2012 www.theaustralian.com.au TRAVEL & INDULGENCE 3 { DESTINATION AUSTRALIA } Masterpieces and makeovers Walk to the animals in the national capital with a plump mattress topper, A heritage hotel in downtown Canberra duvet and crisp linen providing is having its own grand renaissance an ideal haven after a soothing soak in the newly installed tub. Elementsofthehotel’sjazzage SHARON FOWLER history can be found at intervals around the property. The small drive from the NGA, is still wood-panelled reception lounge Olims, the name it has carried evokes a glimpse of days gone by STATE since 1989. Yet that is just one of with high-backed armchairs, OF PLAY the hotel’s many guises. It first high brick fireplace and a glass opened in 1927 as the Ainslie, its divider panel featuring an construction coinciding with the etched lyrebird, the hotel’s completion of Parliament House. original symbol. I AM standing before a Madonna Walter Burley Griffin, Can- The upstairs corridors are and Child canvas, its paint deftly berra’s designer, and his wife, whitewashed, light and airy, with applied more than half a millen- Marion Mahony Griffin, were framed photographs illustrating nium ago by Venetian artist just two of the hotel’s esteemed the property’s history. Wood- Carlo Crivelli. Mary is draped in original guests. It was also known framed panelled windows in scarlet and an intricately pat- for many years as Spendloves many guestrooms overlook the terned gold mantle as she cradles Hotel (after the then owners) and central paved courtyard edged baby Jesus. Behind is a landscape served a stint as a home to female with sprays of vibrant fresias, the that morphs from sumptuous to public servants during World central fountain that has stood sparse; fleshy fruit dot the edge of War II. since 1927 and the restaurant, the canvas. Built in ‘‘English deco’’ style, now just a year old, where the It is one of several such works, it’s recognised on the Australian seasonal tasting menu includes the mothers all delicate and Institute of Architects’ Register entrees of scallops with prawn refined, the babies cherubic with of Significant 20th-Century tortellini and salmon with caper dimpled cheeks and russet- Architecture and is classified by salsa; for mains, grilled salmon or topped heads. A silver-haired the National Trust. porterhouse steak with mush- Southern Ocean Lodge, perched high above the dramatic coastline of Kangaroo Island, is one of Australia’s new breed of elite retreats couple to my left are discussing rooms and hand-cut chips. the virtues of this masterpiece in Be sure also to visit the for 40 years, is a former wildlife ence of the man-made and natural hushed tones. The young chap to Elements of National Library near the Close encounters ranger and deputy mayor who can have such an overwhelming my right has a more upfront take the jazz age can National Gallery, where a fasci- runs bespoke tours through his effect on the senses that when on the subject matter for his nating exhibition, Handwritten, on wild and company Exceptional Kangaroo Oprah Winfrey’s Chicago audi- bemused female companion: be found around on show to March 18, features wonderful Island. He urges us early on to let ence arrived here in 2010 on their ‘‘Sausage babies.’’ the property original letters and manuscripts him know if we have any particu- all-expenses-paid Australian tour, The painting is on show in the by historic luminaries including Kangaroo Island lar passions — wildflowers, birds, some guests burst into tears of Renaissance exhibition of 15th The centrally located Copernicus, Darwin, Einstein, history — and he will factor those happiness. ‘‘One woman even and 16th-century works at the 128-room hotel, a short drive Mozart, Bach and Goethe. KENDALL HILL into commentary and activities. came up and gave me a hug,’’ National Gallery of Australia in from the NGA, is nearing com- On arrival at Kingscote airport says Hayley. Canberra. On loan from the pletion of a major revamp that Sharon Fowler was a guest we are met by a fleet of vehicles The itinerary allows ample time Accademia Carrara in Bergamo, has seen it spruced up with new of Accor. THE things you learn on a luxury and whisked away down the high- to enjoy the lodge’s comforts, in- Italy, the collection features por- furniture, floor coverings and getaway. We 20 travellers are two way over Ice Age sand dunes for a cluding daily cocktails and cana- traits, altarpieces and scenes by facilities. Guests have a choice of days into an indulgent week-long picnic lunch at blowy Bales Beach pesasthesunmeltsintothemallee Italian masters such as Botticelli, standard or superior rooms, Checklist escape when we are informed, and a chaperoned walk among forest, and exploring the best as- Bernini, Titian and Raphael. studio lofts or two-bedroom quite unexpectedly, that the male Australian sea lions. Every excur- sets of this 80,000ha wilderness. With thousands of viewers so apartments, which we discover Renaissance package from $229 pelican has no penis. sion is an enjoyable lesson in natu- At the Kelly Hill Caves we are led far, the exhibition is proving a hit, are particularly spacious with a night in a refurbished room, According to Indiana James, ral history. The most salient thing into a magical underworld of stal- yet it’s by no means the only two living areas. Decor is full buffet breakfast and two we learn about sea lions is that actites, stalagmites and helictites. tickets to the exhibition. Stay the Kangaroo Island artist, tea- rebirth in town. My family and I conservative but tasteful in two nights and receive $50 cher and renowned expert on all they are big carnivores, with huge At Scotts Cove we stand atop are in Canberra to sample neutral earthy tones with towards food and beverage. things Pelecanidae, genital drag teeth, that move much faster than 300m-high sheer granite cliffs Mercure Hotel Canberra’s Rena- splashes of burgundy in cushions Valid to April 9. More: would impede the bird’s aerody- SOUTH AUSTRALIAN TOURISM COMMISSION humans on sand. ‘‘So if one comes above lapis waters as a sea eagle issance package. To most locals, and throws. A highlight is the (02) 6243 0000; namics so it has evolved without Meeting the locals in KI’s Seal Bay Conservation Park at us we grab Hayley and stand plies the sky above us. And at Cape the Mercure in Braddon, a short supremely comfortable king bed, accorhotels.com. one. Pelicans practise something behind her,’’ Wickham grins. Borda Lighthouse, Australia’s called cloacal mating instead, We are told to act ‘‘boring’’ to shortest (it’s on a very tall cliff), the ‘‘where you just roll around until deter animals from coming to play collected logs of 19th and 20th- the right stuff goes in the right but they are preoccupied anyway century keepers reveal the terrible hole’’, James deadpans to his wide- with nuzzling in the sand and fates of pioneering people, includ- eyed audience. ‘‘Isn’t that the way bodysurfing the waves, occasion- ing a Captain Woodward who we all did it the first time?’’ ally leaping from the water like went for a walk in the bush one Well I never. Of course, the electrocuted logs. We are so close day, got jabbed in the eye with a whole point of being here on at one point that when one of the stray stick, went blind and died. South Australia’s Kangaroo Island adult creatures sneezes, I see the Theexpeditioniswellbalanced, is to explore nature’s wonders, red mucus fly out of its snout. Mostly, varying from a day spent touring in tooth and claw and all that, and however, they are extremely cute Kangaroo Island’s renowned to become acquainted with this and quitehappy topose forphotos. natural producers to a Zodiac zip unique corner of the Australian En route to the lodge Wickham along the coastline and a lecture backyard. Pelican penises, or the plies us with island trivia. It is by Dr Peggy Rismiller, the world’s lackthereof,arejustoneofthesur- home to 780 plant species, 50 of leading authority on echidnas. prising truths we will learn during which are found nowhere else. But if the lure of the lodge a week of outdoor education- CRAIG MALIN SATC Themoststrikingis theonewecan proves irresistible, it is OK to stay meets-indoor indulgence. Cape Borda Lighthouse A tammar wallaby see out the vehicle windows now: put and ponder the wonders of The seven-night expedition Xanthorrhoea tateana, Tate’s grass nature from your suite, or the kicks off in late July when KI can bar, the excellent kitchen and 21 states, only a handful know each tree, with its plume of spiky blades Great Room, or the infinity plunge The courtyard of the revamped Mercure Hotel, a short drive from the National Gallery be wild and windy one day, calm seriously stunning suites arrayed other beforehand, but by day two a splayed like a 70s mood lamp. The pool. I call it the Diana option, and sunny the next. But fickle above the cinematic beauty of real camaraderie starts to develop. sight of a koala in a manna gum after a lucky member of our group weather is of little consequence Hanson Bay. It helps that we are staying in beside the road sparks a lesson in with that name who stayed in one when ensconced at Southern The company of your co- dreamy surrounds where no guest chlamydia; apparently koalas har- morning and was rewarded by the Ocean Lodge, one of the nation’s expeditioners is another big need lift a finger and free-flowing bour seven strains, five of which sight of 20 dolphins surfing in China Tours new breed of elite coastal retreats.