Savoring South Carolina's Upcountry
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ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams With miles of hiking trails, a wild and scenic river, sparkling reservoirs and great camping, the Blue Ridge foothills are a springboard to outdoor adventure SAVORING SOUTH CAROLINa’S UPCOUNTRY arm sunlight tum- northwest corner of South Indians called this place ‘The Great Wilderness Area, Table Rock bled through the Carolina. In fact, the Metzes are Blue Hills of God,’ ” a National State Park and Keowee-Toxaway trees beside Robert such big fans that they’ll visit Forest Service ranger said. State Natural Area. All rise from and Glenda Metz’s several times a year to explore the historic Cherokee country, are Freedom Spirit trailer — the region, enjoy scenic drives, walk Scenery to spare close to reservoirs or waterfalls, Wautumn glow transforming their in the woods and go camping. Northwestern South Carolina is dramatic views and camping. campsite into a sanctuary of mel- “We first came here probably a deliberate destination — chances (Note: primitive camping only at low color. 30 years ago when our children are, you’re not going to just stum- Caesars Head.) Fall is a golden season at were small,” said Glenda Metz, of ble across it. As you gradually climb into Oconee State Park, swaddled deep Saluda, S.C. But it’s easily reached, and with Sumter National Forest, elevations in the Andrew Pickens Ranger “For what we look for, it’s lovely views, getting there really rise from 800 to 3,400 feet — but District in South Carolina’s Sumter [Oconee State Park campground] can be half the fun. To the east, roads are well-kept, not terribly National Forest. Here, dense wonderful — quiet, well-kept and pick up the Cherokee Foothills steep, and accessible to even large woodlands that carpet the rolling very, very clean.” National Scenic Highway (South diesel pushers. hills ignite in a calliope of spicy The couple jokes that it was Carolina Highway 11) off I-85 hues each fall, drawing gawkers, their dog —the beloved Ben — near Gaffney, S.C. A river runs hikers and campers alike. who finally forced them to buy Head west toward the Andrew through It But that’s only one facet to a travel trailer. But today they’re Pickens Ranger District, and you’ll From the west, you can reach this geographic gem — a place grateful they went that route — spin past historical sites that date the Andrew Pickens district via that’s a virtual buffet of recre- it makes impromptu camping a back to the American Revolution U.S. Highway 76. Here, the wild ational opportunities for outdoor breeze. and sprawling orchards. and scenic Chattooga River cuts a enthusiasts. “Traveling with a pet is so Along the way, you’ll find wriggling border between Georgia Springtime typically brings much easier this way,” Robert three South Carolina state parks and South Carolina —a huge furious, roiling water on the said. “Besides, Ben likes camp- that are worthy destinations in drawing card to white-water enthu- nearby Chattooga River, one of ing, too!” their own right: Caesars Head siasts each spring, when waters America’s earliest wild and scenic Sumter National Forest has a State Park/Mountain Bridge run high. rivers. Spring runoff also height- reputation as a first-rate recreation ens the frothy flow at dozens of destination for adventurers who area waterfalls, while the woods like to multitask. A rafting trip can Where to Stay: Cherry Hill Recreation Area Campground, off South Carolina Highway 107, are softened by clouds of moun- become a trout fishing extravagan- Mountain Rest. No hookups or reservations. (864) 638-9568 tain laurel, rhododendron blos- za. A trek along any of the region’s Devils Fork State Park, 161 Holcombe CIR, Salem. Hookups, soms and feathery ferns. extensive hiking trails — over toilets, showers. (864) 944-2639/(866) 345-PARK (for reservations). Keowee-Toxaway State Park, 108 Residence Drive, Sunset. Hookups, Summer’s leafy green canopy 50 miles’ worth — invites camp- 40-foot length maximum, toilets, showers. (864) 868-2605/(866) brings welcome respite from the ing. Some national forest camp- 345-PARK (for reservations) Lake Hartwell State Recreation Area, 19138-A, South Carolina heat in upstate South Carolina. sites offer horse stalls, perfect for Highway 11 S, Fair Play. Hookups, toilets, showers. (864) 972-3352/ Best yet — mild winters permit mountain trail rides. (866) 345-PARK (for reservations) many of the region’s parks, trails And the sweeping scenery that Oconee State Park, 624 State Park Road, Mountain Rest,. Hookups, toilets, showers. (864) 638-5353/(866) 345-PARK (for reservations) and campgrounds to stay open defines these Blue Ridge foot- Table Rock State Park, 158 E. Ellison Lane, Pickens, South Carolina. Hook-ups, year-round. hills, well that’s pretty spectacular toilets, showers. (864) 878-9813/(866) 345-PARK (for reservations) Put it all together, and there’s year-round. Whetstone Horse Camp, South Carolina Highway 28 to Whetstone Road, Mountain Rest. Nearly 28 miles of horse trails; 20 sites with parking spurs for much to like about the extreme “There’s a reason the Cherokee horse trailers, drinking water, toilets, but no hookups.(864) 638-9568/(877) 444-6777 (for reservations) 8 (For more information, visit: http://www.southcarolinaparks.com/park.) Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 6 ROUTE 66 Road Trip (clockwise, upper left to right) Fall brings fiery color to South Carolina’s Sumter National Forest. Hiking trails provide sweep- ing views. Joe and Sharian Robinson, of Seneca, S.C., camp with friends at Devils Fork State Park. Oconee State Park has become a family tradition for John and Cindy Looney, of Greenville, S.C. Whitewater Falls is a pretty fall destination. An angler tries his luck at Oconee State Park. Scenic overlooks showcase fall’s finery in South Carolina. 9 Hiking trails wind near the river, and a myriad of rafting guide companies can assist any- one who wants to get on the water, from experienced river rats to beginners. The Chattooga is one of the longest, free-flowing rivers in the Southeastern United States. For white-water rafters, it’s considered an American classic — the sce- nic corridor featured in the movie “Deliverance.” River levels vary with seasonal conditions, but at its best, adven- ture-seekers will find nearly 60 miles of cascading falls, rugged boulders, gentle shoals and adren- aline-pumping rapids flowing past pristine wilderness. The last seven miles of the Chattooga are consid- ered the most exciting, with Class III and IV rapids. Downstream, the river final- ly joins Lake Tugaloo; the most popular take-out spot is about 15 minutes from Westminster, S.C. Recent drought conditions have affected water levels. Avid raf- ters should check river conditions in advance with the U.S. Forest Service (864) 638-9568 or visit www.chattooga-river.net. Hikers will want to explore the Chattooga River Trail, a nearly 40-mile route through North Carolina, Georgia and South Carolina that follows the Chattooga from Burrells Ford Campground (no RV access), in South Carolina, to U.S. Highway 76. ROUTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network® Dealers Brown’s RV 30049 Highway 151 McBee, SC 29101 (843) 335-8829 Crowder RV Center 4533 Bristol Hwy. Johnson City, TN 37601 (423) 282-5011 CSRA Camperland 3844 Washington Rd. Martinez, GA 30907 (706) 863-6294 Family RV Center (clockwise, upper left to right) Rental boats bask in golden autumn light at Oconee State Park. Check out the trout at I-77 Exit 45, Beside KOA Walhalla State Fish Hatchery near Mountain Rest. Robert and Glenda Metz, of Saluda, S.C., enjoy the serenity of Oconee Statesville, NC State Park. Lake Jocassee sprawls at the edge of Devils Fork State Park. (866) 530-6551 Sonny’s Camp-N-Travel 333 Frontage Road Duncan, SC 29334 10 (864) 433-0887 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 6 Woodsy the Foothills Trail, an 80-mile wil- Good Eats, Great Sites: campgrounds • Take a free tour of the Walhalla State Fish Hatchery, just off South derness hike across the Blue Ridge Carolina Highway 28 near Mountain Rest, to see some gigantic While a smattering of National Escarpment toward Table Rock. brown and rainbow trout. Bring a picnic lunch to this secluded, pictur- Forest Service campgrounds RVers will find 140 roomy esque setting, or explore the East Fork hiking trail. • Visit the home-grown orchards that flourish throughout the region to accommodate RVs, you’ll gener- campsites with water, electric sample a crisp apple or some sweet cider. ally find primitive settings without hookups and picnic tables; flush • Step just over the state line into North Carolina — off South Carolina hookups or amenities. toilets and hot showers are avail- Highway 130 — to see Whitewater Falls, a 411-foot marvel. A short, paved walk takes you to excellent overlooks. A better bet? Check out a great able, as well as dump stations and • Tackle part of the Foothills Trail, an 85-mile woodland path that pair of state parks — Oconee State laundry facilities. Campsites can plunges through the heart of the Blue Ridge foothills, cutting into both Park and Devils Lake State Park. accommodate RVs up to 35 feet North and South Carolina. • Wet your hook in Lake Jocassee, a sprawling 7,500-acre lake nour- Located off South Carolina long. $16 to $18 a night. ished by clean, cold Appalachian mountain water. At 300-feet deep, it Highway 107, Oconee State Park “My mother used to come up is dotted with small islands and inviting inlets. • Enjoy a slice of history at the Oconee Station State Historic Site, a is a treasure — a terrific destina- here with my dad, and she still one-time military compound and trading post, located just off South tion for families, hikers, anglers likes coming here, so now we Carolina Highway 11.