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SunshineBritish Columbia’s Coast — Diving Along Canada’s Salish Sea Text and photos by Barb Roy 30 X-RAY MAG : 73 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel British Columbia Port Hardy Juvenile Puget Sound king crabs like to hide under kelp leaves. PREVIOUS PAGE: Cluster of anemones paint terrain of the Skookumchuck Rapids Vancouver Island With over 53 miles (86km) of accessed via a car ferry from Horseshoe a variety of critters, without the worry Bay to Langdale (40 min sailing). The of currents. Orange and white plumose scenic picturesque coastline Desolation along Highway 101 and less town of Sechelt is a 30-minute drive anemones adorn the ship’s railings from Campbell Sound north where divers can explore Sechelt bow to stern. The bridge, ladders and River Lund than 40 inches (104cm) of rain- Inlet. This is actually a peninsula formed stairs are also covered with anemones, Powell River fall per year, it’s no wonder between the Strait of Georgia and feather stars (crinoids) brittle stars and Saltery Strait of Georgia Bay Sechelt Inlet. Narrows Inlet and Salmon white glass-tunicates. Texada the Sunshine Coast of British Howe Inlet branch off to the east of Sechelt I am always amazed at the amount Sound Columbia in Canada is a popu- Inlet opening the possibility to even more of juvenile rockfish on this wreck, as well Sechelt lar getaway for travelers from boat exploration. Due to the ease of get- as thick patches of life thriving on the Salish Sea ting here, divers tend to spend one to underside near the stern, which is where I around the world. Both the Nanaimo upper and the lower sections three days shore diving or join up with a have seen octopus! For divers possessing Sunshine Coast high- VANCOUVER group dive charter. deep-diving skills, cloud sponges can be lighted in yellow on offer an array of great dive sites found on the forward gun barrels, which map of the southwest- Ucluelet Chemainus and a myriad of other fun activi- HMCS Chaudiere. The wreck of the point straight down. ern coastal area of British HMCS Chaudiere, a retired 366ft (112m) “The Chaud is an amazing wreck,” said Colmbia, Canada (right); ties on a year-round basis. Location of Sunshine Coast destroyer escort, scuttled by the Artificial Jon Dewsbury, local PADI Instructor and region on global map (inset) Reef Society of British Columbia (ARSBC) owner of The Scuba Shack accommoda- Sidney The lower Sunshine Coast is located in 1992, is quite an experience. You have tions (TheScubaShack.ca). “It was actu- Rockfish are seen VICTORIA between Langdale and Earl’s Cove, the opportunity to see and photograph ally the first of all the wrecks that were resting on rocks and in sponges (top right) 31 X-RAY MAG : 73 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel British Columbia LIGHTWEIGHT Frosted nudibranchs can be found in both Upper and Lower Sunshine Coast sunk up here in BC. This destroyer multitudes of white tube-dwelling just up the street from Tuwanek. is unique, and over the years, has anemones and ivory-colored I offer package deals to stay at become home to lingcod, perch, giant swimming nudibranchs the cottage and also dive. It’s a octopus and wolf eels. It’s a fun as they tried to feed on them. beautiful cottage with a great hot CHAMPION ship to explore.” Other nudibranchs, rose stars and tub deck. We’re not a dive shop (only 2kg) Several buoy lines are usually various invertebrate life can be but do have over 30 tanks, which I attached to the wreck, providing found covering surrounding rocks rent out to divers visiting the coast. direct access to the ship. The ves- and ledges. Aside from the dog- I also have numerous dive sets to sel rests on its port side with the fish, macro and close-up lenses accommodate certified divers bow at 145ft and the stern at 90ft worked well. wanting to rent all dive gear or just (44-27m). Wreck penetration is a couple of things.” only advisable with proper equip- Tuwanek Point. Tuwanek Point is Degan Walters, a visiting diver ment and training. easily accessible as a shore dive residing in Washington State for both day and night dives. This said: “I have dived the Sunshine Tzoonie Narrows. Tzoonie Narrows is one of those sites where you Coast in several places— is not far from the Chaudiere and never know what you might come Tuwanek, the Chaudiere, Egmont, a great second dive if currents across, as Dewsbury recalled: Skookumchuck, Agamemnon permit. Depth varies from 50 to “This beautiful site boasts amaz- Channel and Saltery Bay near 60ft (15 to 18m). During my last ing visibility and often a giant Powell River. My shore diving trips D9 BREATHABLE dive here, a dozen dogfish (small octopus to visit, as well as wolf were between one and two days, • 4-Layer Breathable Ultra light shell • Flexible TIZIP Master Seal Front zipper • Fabric socks • sharks) came to check us out. eels, seals and sea lions. It’s pretty and the trips with Porpoise Bay Quick-Dry • Latex seals • Warm cuffs • SI TECH valves • Telescope Torso • Seam free crotch • Alas, they were a bit too fast for cool: Once a sea lion notices you, Charters were usually four days. Fabric socks • Integrated suspenders • Pre-bent knees • Knee reinforcement • Zipper cover my camera, not to mention intimi- it usually keeps you company for “I love Tuwanek for its excel- dating as a group! the duration of your dive! lent visibility,” said Degan. “Large www.waterproof.eu A gentle drift carried us over “Our rental cottage is located and abundant octopuses, wolf- 32 X-RAY MAG : 73 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Crabs often hide in sponges for protection (left); Gorgonian sea fans are found in Agamemnon Channel in deep water (right); British Columbia travel Sea cucumbers are frequently seen along the Sunshine Coast (below) along the shore next to the park or in the Glory Hole—a crater-shaped gap in the middle of the rapids—you can expect to see a hodge- podge of colorful anemones, sea stars and multicolored fish. Try using a wide-angle lens, if visibility permits, to catch your buddy hovering above or next to a large boulder full of marine life. Orange, black and white burrow- ing sea cucumbers can be seen as they compete for space between sponges, tiny sculpins, anemones and the infrequent octopus. Experience and advanced training is the key for being able to enjoy this fast-paced adrenalin site. “The SKOOK runs group sizes may apply. at a rating of 16 When not diving at this site, one knots on the ebb of my favorite hikes is along the and 16.5 knots on trail leading to Skookumchuck the flood,” said Kal Rapids. It is a very scenic walk Helyar, co-owner through the forest, totaling about and operator 2.5 miles (4km) from the parking of Porpoise Bay lot. The best viewing times for the Charters (www. rapids can be found posted on a porpoisebaychar- schedule at the start of the trail or ters.com). “This is in the local newspaper. Usually an BC’s fastest! We hour before and after peak tides pick up divers at will give enough time to watch the government the rapids, as they go from boil- eels and relatively easy access Skookumchuck Rapids. Skookum- dock in Egmont, ing or standing waves to flat-calm but Skookumchuk Narrows is also chuck Rapids is quite a sight from providing accom- waters, then back to a cauldron spectacular and Porpoise Bay the surface. Viewing this mighty modations, food of turmoil. Charters never disappoints. Once force of nature during a full cur- and boat diving.” The word “Skookumchuck” we saw orcas in the inlet, and rent flow creates a measurable Since this is a comes from the Chinook words then also as we were getting into amount of respect for this site. very popular dive meaning “powerful water”. If you the water (but not under it)! At Diving is only possible from a boat area, advanced are lucky, the wave runners will Tuwanek, I see large Puget Sound and during slack current (when reservations are be out challenging the current king crabs, carpets of anemones the water stops to change direc- recommended with their small white-water kay- and sponges.” tion). Whether the boat takes you and minimum aks. 33 X-RAY MAG : 73 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel British Columbia Captain’s Island. Captain’s Island on a Huge colonies of cloud sponge start sunny day can be a spectacular dive. around 60ft (18m) and seem to head I have often cruised along the wall at endlessly down. They are brilliant yel- 60ft (18m), observing juvenile rockfish low and white in color and highlight hiding in the openings of the protrud- silhouetted divers in breath-taking ing chimney sponge or giant yellow wide-angle shots. cloud sponges. Resting cabezon, ling- But the best part is even deeper, cod and various species of rockfish around 120ft (36.5m) where giant red seem to position themselves equally gorgonian sea fans can be found. apart. Large sections of the wall are Proper buoyancy control is neces- covered in small blankets of dark red sary around these delicate fans and algae and deep purple encrusting sponges, so watch your fins! I have hydrocorals.
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