BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER2019

THIS MONTH

2 WASHINGTON 25 CALIFORNIA 53 NEW YORK 57 60 63 SPAIN 66 BORDEAUX 72 NORTHERN RHÔNE 78 SOUTHERN 79 PIEDMONT 82 NORTHEAST 85 CENTRAL ITALY 88 98 99 ISRAEL 104 SPIRITS 106 BEER

Harvest season in Red Mountain, Washington

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS RICHARD DUVAL /DANITADELIMONT/ALAMY RICHARD DUVAL WINEMAG.COM | 1

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exquisitely balanced fruit and savory flavors fol- low, bringing a sense of deftness. A 60-plus-second, intensely flavorful, flower- and smoked meat-filled finish cap it off. This is all about expression and elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. WASHINGTON abv: 13.8% Price: $80 report Saviah 2016 The Stones Speak Estate Funk (Walla Walla Valley). The he 2016 growing season was unusual for Even in some higher-tier , these char- 94 aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of pot- Washington State. As in recent years, it acteristics can occasionally be found, along with pourri, orange rind, cracked pepper, charcuterie was quite warm, and by late August, the less midpalate density than the norm. Simply plate, plum and ember. Lithe, sultry, intensely fla- state was ahead of the previous year’s his- put, producers who were not well on top of what vorful, sophisticated fruit and savory notes follow. toricT heat accumulation. was happening in the vineyard in 2016 paid a The finish seems endless. It’s a complete stunner. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. A perfect storm of growing conditions led price in quality. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 to larger berries and clusters in some variet- For those who were diligent—and there is ies. The came in as much a great abundance of exam- Reynvaan Family 2016 In the as 30% above expected num- ples—the results are sublime. 93 Rocks Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah bers, even after extensive thin- Producers who Some wines from 2016 are as (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas offer lively notes of freshly peeled orange, potpourri, black pepper, ning. Hanging larger amounts good as or better than any I’ve were not well on fresh flower, wet stone and smoked meat. It coats of fruit is not necessarily a bad top of what was had from the region and often the palate from end to end, bringing a sense of thing, especially in a warm vin- happening in the promise profound aging poten- freshness and subtlety, with a persistent, plum- and tage, but then 2016 took a turn. tial, with late ripening varieties smoked meat-filled finish. It shows a lot of grace Conditions from mid-September vineyard in 2016 in particular excelling. The top and depth, with a finish that will not quit.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. until the end of harvest cooled wines have a compelling display paid a price in abv: 13.5% Price: $90 down considerably, and there quality. of ripe fruit due to the heat of was intermittent rain—a rarity summer along with cool vintage Saviah 2016 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This in ever-dry eastern Washington. elegance and freshness from the 93 is a blend of fruit from Watermill, The results of these factors can be tasted below average fall temperatures. Bottom line, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vineyards. The aro- mas intrigue, with notes of ember, ash, black olive, throughout the wines with mixed outcomes. it’s a good year to be choosy, but the rewards are herbs, black raspberry and barrel spice. A smooth, At the entry level, growers typically push the there for the taking. sophisticated, flavorful palate follows along with tons per acre as high as the vintage will support. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll a hyperextended finish seldom seen in a wine at However, from this vintage, a number of these find reviews from California, New York, Austria this price. If you want to see what Walla Walla Val- wines are lacking in ripeness and concentration and beyond. Find thousands more reviews at ley Syrah is all about, it’s hard to imagine a better introduction. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. due to the cooler temperatures in the fall. winemag.com/ratings —Sean P. Sullivan abv: 14.7% Price: $32

Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 The Con- 92 tender Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Ecstatic aromas of firepit, SYRAH filled, warm finish caps it off, kicking it up a notch. flower, ember, dried tobacco, roasted coffee bean, Give it time to open up. —S.S. smoked meat and earth lead to lighter-styled, Saviah 2016 The Funk Estate Funk Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $NA focused fruit and savory flavors. It brings a mouth- 95 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming from watering palate that delights. The flavors carry on winemaker Richard Funk, the aromas are arresting, Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 Foothills the long finish. —S.S. with notes of potpourri, firepit, Stargazer lily, pro- 94 Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard abv: 13.2% Price: $90 sciutto, funk (no kidding), green and black olive and Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The funk is at the fore blue fruit. Soft, pillowy fruit and savory flavors fol- on this wine out of the gate, followed by vineyard MTR Productions 2013 Memory Found Syrah low, bringing an enchanting sense of lightness and signature notes of freshly ground black pepper 91 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine spent three intensity that lead to a hyperextended finish that along with sea , seaweed and tilled earth. A deft, years in barrel (new and neutral puncheon and bar- carries off into the distance. It’s an accomplish- flavorful palate follows leading into a long show- rique) and an additional three years in bottle. Aro- ment. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. stopping finish filled with rich notes of citrus and mas of dried tobacco, firepit, olive and herbs lead to abv: 14.6% Price: $60 smoke. —S.S. lighter-styled, juicy fruit flavors. It brings a lovely abv: 13.5% Price: $85 sense of elegance. Smoked meat flavors linger on Delmas 2017 SJR Vineyard Syrah (Walla the finish. It shows a bit more age than might be 94 Walla Valley). SJR Vineyard is proving itself Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 In the Hills expected. —S.S. to be a singular site. This is just another example. 94 Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah abv: 13.1% Price: $90 Blue fruit, herb and coffee notes are at the fore, (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas draw you into the followed by notes of herb, flower and spice. Broad, glass, with notes of orange peel, funk, potpourri, palate-coating blue fruit and coffee flavors follow. white flower, herbs, black pepper and butcher shop, An insanely long, seemingly endless savory, coffee- showing delineation and detail. Light on their feet, Continued on page 17

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director ­Alexander Peartree,­ Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren­ Buzzeo,­ Assistant Tasting Director Fiona ­Adams, ­Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, ­Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; ­Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Schramsberg 2010 J. Schram (North Coast). ­­Anne Krebiehl­ in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors 97 This dry and beautifully aged bubbly is Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in ­Washington. Benovia 2016 Tilton Hill (Sonoma made from 84% and 16% Pinot Noir. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Coast). This comes from the producer’s Rich gold in color, it opens with fascinating and initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- 98 lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more coolest estate near the town of Freestone. White well-developed aromas of toasted baguette, toasted reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all pepper jumps from the glass alongside accents of walnuts and marzipan, followed by a warm, buttery tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. lavender, rose and spice. Compelling in every way, it flavor that’s backed by baked apple and cinnamon. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its offers juicy raspberry fruit that’s focused, pure and The fine-beaded texture is luxurious and the fin- suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us undeniably delicious. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. ish is long and lingering. Best through 2024. Cellar by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 14.2% Price: $60 Selection. —J.G. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 12.4% Price: $120 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Chappellet 2016 Hideaway Vineyard Mountain Brewer-Clifton 2017 459 Pinot Noir (Sta. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. 97 Estates (Napa ­Valley). 96 Rita Hills). Enticing aromas of ripe red Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 The for this wine are sourced from the steep and alpine strawberry are fruity but elegant points) are not reviewed. slopes of the producer’s own Pritchard Hill spot at on the nose, lifted by touches of rose petal and SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS 1,425 feet. Juicy black cherry and wild berry yield ­hibiscus. The palate offers pure flavors of boysen- Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- to rich vanilla and , with ample grip and tension berry and black plum alongside touches of fennel, ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price that lend structure. It’s simply delicious, volup- nutmeg, mace and a pinch of curry. It is very com- with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible tuous and lush yet complex. —V.B. plex and vividly fresh. —M.K. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. Massican 2018 Annia (Napa Valley). Made Calera 2017 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). Hail- from 48% Tocai Friulano, 41% Ribolla ing from Josh Jensen’s iconic vineyard at LABELS 97 96 Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given Gialla and 11% Chardonnay, this is fresh and flo- 2,200 feet above the Salinas Valley, this is an epic the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been ral in tones of rind, white flower and green Chardonnay, loaded with clean, lively aromas of finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information apple. Fermented in both French oak and stainless cherimoya, honeysuckle, sweet cream, crisp peach, on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax steel, it is structured yet vibrant,­ gorgeously aro- struck flint and chive. The palate is tightly wound, 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. matic and ­remarkably long-lasting on the palate. with flavors of lemon spray, seared nectarine, sea Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Editors’ Choice. —V.B. salt and toasted oak. —M.K. winemag.com/ratings abv: 12.4% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Nada Giuseppe 2016 Casot (Barbaresco). Bucci 2016 Villa Bucci Riserva (Verdicchio dei 96 Aromas of wild berry, forest floor, leather, Benovia 2016 Bella Una Pinot Noir (Russian 95 Castelli di Jesi Classico). Delicate, enticing blue flower and spice meld together with a cool 95 River Valley). This wine is sourced from a scents of Spanish broom, botanical herbs, bees- breeze of menthol. The palate is delicious, offering mix of several sites, including Martaella Estate, Til- wax and ripe citrus shape the nose. Linear and juicy extract, crushed black rasp- ton Hill Estate and the Martinelli family’s Zio Tony supremely elegant, the vibrant palate delivers ripe berry, licorice, tobacco and truffle alongside velvety, Ranch. Together, they weave gorgeously integrated yellow peach, apricot, and along- enveloping tannins. Drink 2024–2036. Vintage ’59 flavors of white pepper, garrigue, flint and never- side tangy acidity. A classic varietal note of bitter Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. ending baking spice. Firm tannins add to the inten- almond graces the lingering finish. Hold for even abv: 14.5% Price: $35 sity that resides within a core of balanced acidity more complexity. Drink through 2026. Empson USA and sumptuous black cherry. —V.B. Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $60

Sanford 2016 La Rinconada Vineyard Estate 96 Grown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Quite light in the glass, this bottling from a vineyard planted in 1997 shows pristine aromas of , Domaine Della 2017 Earl Stephens Vineyard guava peel, lemon juice and wet chalk. The palate is Benovia 2016 La Pommeraie Pinot Noir (Rus- 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Spicy and austere at first, focused on the chalky grip, and then 95 sian River Valley). From a site along the edge thick in rich, rewarding flavors of baked rhubarb come waves of mellow cherimoya, white peach and of the Green Valley appellation, this starts with a and strawberry spiced by nutmeg, this bold red is other creamy white fruits. A salty element arises on beautiful bouquet of fresh cherry and raspberry also floral in rose petal. Velvety smooth and full the finish. —M.K. that opens the door to a seamless, supple palate. bodied in style, it delivers concentrated complexity abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Integrated acidity supports the smooth, rich flavors and undeniable appeal. —V.B. of baking spice and black tea. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $62

Ancien 2016 Mink Vineyard Pinot Noir 95 (Coombsville). This wine is heady in spicy Ferraton Père et Fils 2015 Les Dionnières nutmeg on the nose. The palate brings bold flavors Brewer-Clifton 2017 Machado Pinot Noir 95 (Hermitage). Complex and regal, this briskly of black cherry, strawberry and orange peel. Deli- 95 (Sta. Rita Hills). Buoyant aromas of Bing balanced Syrah offers pristine blackberry and boy- cately built and nuanced, it shows a wealth of inte- cherry and raspberry sorbet are layered with laven- senberry flavors edged by layers of dried mushroom, grated, supple tannins that lend support. —V.B. der and rose buds on the elegant, approachable nose underbrush and leather. It’s succulent and silky yet abv: 14.2% Price: $55 of this single-vineyard bottling. The palate is crisp in stands firm and upright on fine, persistent tannins. an underripe cherry flavor, with a taut texture and It’s balanced and heady, but will hold well through accents of mace and star anise on the finish. —M.K. 2035. Sera Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 13% Price: $108

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Ferraton Père et Fils 2015 Les Grands Mûri- Antica 2016 Mountain Select Cabernet Sau- 95 ers (Cornas). Layers of smoke, charred meat 94 vignon (Napa Valley). This wine shows its and sun-dried herbs introduce this opulent Cornas. Shafer 2016 One Point Five Cabernet Sau­ mountain provenance in meaty, grippy and gritty Concentrated blackberry and cassis flavors are off- 95 vignon (Stags Leap District). This wine is tannins and a broad expansive weight on the pal- set by vibrant acidity and lingering, chalky tannins. sourced from the producer’s Hillside Estate and ate. But beneath its brawn is beauty and a rounded It’s an irresistibly hedonistic yet nuanced wine to Borderline Vineyards two miles south of the . lushness of delicious drinkability, a mix of brambly enjoy now through 2035. Sera Wine Imports. Edi- It offers toasted oak, leather, clove and cinnamon— blackberry, cherry, cassis and crushed rock. Let it tors’ Choice. —A.I. a savory profile that’s deceptively fresh in underly- sit in the glass over time or consider cellaring. Enjoy abv: 13.5% Price: $62 ing acidity. Dark plum and black cherry flavors are 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. lushly textured and spicy on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $70 abv: 15.3% Price: $95

Goldeneye 2016 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir 95 (Anderson­ Valley). This wine is big and Benovia 2016 La Pommeraie Chardonnay bold, blending powerful structure with warm red- The Setting 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 (Russian River Valley). This tremendously and black-fruit flavors that fill it out. Raspberries 95 (Oakville). This is a high-toned, well-­ impressive wine is made from grapes grown at the and black are shaded by strawberry and integrated and likable wine that’s broadly expressive Martinelli family’s Zio Tony Vineyard. It tastes of cinnamon in both the aromas and flavors, while and expansive on the palate. It offers layered flavors apple up front, ­juicy, layered and complex in lush moderate tannins and supple acidity balance every- of sweet tobacco, black raspberry and cherry, with texture and buoyant acidity. Edges of crème brûlée thing out beautifully. Best through 2026. Cellar­ supple tannins that add length and breadth. —V.B. and caramel accent papaya and pineapple, with Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $120 underlying mineral components that add to the abv: 14.5% Price: $125 intriguing richness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Ancien 2016 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir Iron Horse 2014 Brut X Estate Bottled Spar- 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). Pure aromas of candied 95 kling Wine (Green Valley). This extra-dry boysenberry, violet and lavender have been kissed Benovia 2016 Martaella Pinot Noir ­(Russian sparkler offers tones of green apple, lemon, wet gently by oak on the nose of this intense yet elegant 94 River Valley). Warm, supple fruit is the star stone and hazelnut, with bright acidity and a tightly bottling. That intensity grips the palate with more of this estate-vineyard wine, planted to heirloom focused structure. Despite nearly no added, it purple fruit and nutmeg spice, wrapped in a firm clones. Flavors of baking spice, earth and rose petal doesn’t lack flavor or richness, but instead offers a structure. Drink now–2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. ride beneath a core of lengthy cherry, pomegranate beautiful expression of pure fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 and plum, with good weight on the palate. Powerful abv: 13.5% Price: $54 and concentrated, it has balance and structure for days. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Brewer-Clifton 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Goldeneye 2016 Gowan Creek Vineyard Pinot 94 Hills). There’s a purity of fruit and herb Fontanabianca 2016 Barbaresco. Aromas 94 Noir (Anderson Valley). This full-bodied to Greg Brewer’s style that shines through even on 94 of new leather, iris, wet earth and per- and firmly textured wine from perennial standout this appellation blend. Aromas of candied raspberry fumed berry meld together with crushed herbs Golden­eye seems designed for aging, as its firm and strawberry pair with damp sage, pine oil and and spices. The full-bodied, elegant palate delivers tannins and fresh acidity buoy abundant flavors green peppercorn on the nose. The pristine palate’s juicy Marasca cherry, black raspberry, white pepper of black cherry, clove and cedar. A slight tightness crisp pomegranate and fresh raspberry flavors are and a hint of tobacco, while firm acidity and taut, on the palate will help it age and improve through instantly cut by eucalyptus and green tobacco leaf. fine-grained tannins lend ageworthy support and 2025. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. finesse. Drink 2023–2036. Ethica Wines.Cellar abv: 14.5% Price: $86 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

Center of Effort 2015 Giallo Solare Chardon- 94 nay (Edna Valley). This is a rich yet balanced­ Gary Farrell 2016 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Hendry 2015 Blocks 7 & 22 (Napa expression of Chardonnay, starting with aromas of 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Clove, tea and 94 Valley). This is a spicy, sublime and expan- butterscotch, lemon preserves, citrus cream and stemmy earth permeate the core of this wine, which sive wine, full bodied no doubt, yet brimming in minty herbs. Ripe and roasted apple flavors show is lively, savory and tensely structured. Around the freshness and complexity. It is red-fruit driven on the palate, as does sea-salt caramel toward­ the edges are brilliant layers of freshly picked raspberry and dazzles in white and black pepper, accented by finish, but the lemony acidity drives from start to and strawberry complemented by orange. —V.B. dashes of cinnamon and nutmeg. It has a long-last- finish. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 ing texture and richness. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 15.3% Price: $36

Gary Farrell 2016 McDonald Mountain Chappellet 2017 Grower Collection Dutton 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Iron Horse 2014 Classic Vintage Brut Estate 94 Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This This intriguing, complex and evolving wine bursts 94 Bottled (Green Valley). Fla- vineyard-­designate wine offers an inviting array of with white pepper and clove, the fruit character vors of apple skin and lemon verbena accent this white pepper, cardamom and rose petal. Layered in vibrantly fresh in pomegranate. It is worth spend- wine’s tart, high-toned acidity and restrained rich- complex, interwoven tannins and oak, it has ten- ing time and getting to know this study in stemmy ness. A winery flagship, it presents as dry and tex- sion and freshness in abundance, with deft flavors herbal tea. —V.B. tured, with a tight structure of ­finesse. It finishes on of stone, plum and dark cherry. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $70 a hazelnut tone. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $45

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 J. Lohr 2015 Cuvée St. E (Paso Robles). This Moraga 2015 Bel Air Red (California). From Spear 2017 Block 13 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 94 homage Saint-Émilion shows rich aromas of 94 a vineyard that sits on the slopes of Bel Air, 94 Hills). The block-selection bottlings from black currant, toast and roasted wood on the nose. this bottling shows black cherry,­ roasted coffee and this property in the heart of the Sta. Rita Hills are It’s concentrated on the palate, carrying mouthfilling­ a hint of caramel on the ripe nose. Polished tan- head turners. This begins with light, bright and flavors of cassis, peppercorn, cocoa, espresso and nins and fresh acidity deliver flavors of blackberry brilliant aromas of red cherry, lavender, rose and herbs, all wrapped in smooth tannins. —M.K. jam, truffle, vanilla and caramel. Drink now–2035. earthy herbs on the nose. There is a sagebrush snap abv: 14.9% Price: $50 Cellar Selection. —M.K. to the palate, where wild thyme meets with sour abv: NA Price: $175 cherry. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

Joseph Phelps 2017 Freestone Vineyards 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Sanford 2016 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Bright and fragrant in aromas of jasmine and lemon 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). The Setting 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- rind, this wine impresses in its textured minerality Fairly light and delicate aromas of lemon peel, 94 ander Valley). This wine is soft and supple, of wet stone and sea spray. Structured and complex, lemongrass­ and the slightest hint of warm butter- with strong flavors of blueberry and mocha. Lush, it shines in a light-bodied approach that never holds cream show on the nose of this bottling from the rich and creamy on the palate, it has broad appeal back in flavors of apple and pear. —V.B. region’s most historic vineyard. There is a great and understated complexity. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 sizzle to the palate, with fresh flavors of white flower abv: 14.7% Price: $85 and lemon that lead to an amazingly long and smooth finish. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

Moraga 2017 Bel Air (Cali- 94 fornia). This is a rich style of Sauvignon­ Blanc from a property owned by Rupert­ Murdoch in the hills of Bel Air. Golden in the glass, it begins Seabold 2017 Olson Prunetucky Sands Char- Three Sticks 2017 Price Family Estates Pinot with lush aromas of white peach, mango, toasted 94 donnay (Monterey). Clean, delicate and yet 94 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This youthful wine almond, white flowers and toasted marshmallow. full aromas of lemon cream, toast, peach blossom is from several properties owned by the producer, The palate opens with a flash of acidity followed by and chalk show on the lovely nose of this bottling including the Walala, Gap’s Crown, Durell and One smooth waves of honey-dusted nectarine and seared from a vineyard that sits above Highway 101 in Sky Vineyards. Earth, clove and tree bark tones stone fruit, finishing with hazelnut cream. —M.K. Prunedale. The chalky texture takes hold immedi- provide a savory edge of complexity, followed by abv: 14.5% Price: $115 ately on the palate, with flavors of white peach and focused elements of baking spice, orange, pome- seared nectarine that are chiseled by acidity and granate and strawberry. Structured yet bright, it is finish on an intriguing chive note. —M.K. cohesive and delicious. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $65

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Bonterra 2014 The Butler (Mendocino Diatom 2018 Santos Road Chardonnay (Sta. 93 County).­ Made by Winemaker Jeff Cichocki 93 Rita Hills). Broad aromas of pineapple, pear Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Cabernet from biodynamic grapes grown in the Butler Ranch and fresh plumeria show on the nose of this bottling 93 Sauvignon (Red Hills). Serious and full bod- Vineyard, this opens with concentrated aromas of by Greg Brewer. The palate zips with acidity, deliv- ied, this complex wine is made from organic grapes. ripe blueberry and spice that move the full-bodied ering flavors of guava, Pink Lady apple, pineapple It wafts aromas of mint, toasted oak and baking palate with equally focused fruit flavors. A velvety, and more ripe pear. —M.K. spices and delivers layers of black and red fruits, lightly gripping texture and good fruit concentra- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cedar and vanilla on the palate. It has moderate tan- tion help bring on a lingering finish. —J.G. nins and a mouthfiling texture. Best after 2023.Cel - abv: 14.8% Price: $55 lar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

Diora 2017 La Splendeur du Soleil Chardon- 93 nay (Monterey). Bright aromas of lemon Brewer-Clifton 2017 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita candy, sea spray and lime balm meets with a touch 93 Hills). This appellation blend carries that of pastry on the nose. Richer flavors of white peach Joseph Phelps 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet aromatic hallmark of this winery’s Chardonnays, and sea salt ride a light and bright texture on the 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This lovely wine with a streak of walnut oil that decorates the mar- palate, which grows more oaky toward the finish. shows exceptional quality and complexity within a malade and toast tones. The palate is bright in acid- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. bold, expansive package of thick, grippy tannin and ity, giving energy to the flavors of walnut paste, dried abv: 14.5% Price: $22 layered flavors of blackberry, tobacco and smoked orange peel and sun-dried honeysuckle. —M.K. meat. It is blended with 7% , 3% Petit Verdot abv: 14.5% Price: $36 and 2% each of and Petit Verdot. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Five Stones 2016 D vs G Red (Judean Hills). 93 This wine offers a bouquet of black currant Crosby Roamann 2015 Merlot (Oak Knoll and juniper berry. Equally weighted acidity and 93 District). Violet perfume opens this memo- tannins support flavors of blackberry, raspberry, rable wine that is sourced from the Jaeger Ranch. chocolate­-covered espresso bean and lemon zest. It Soft, supple, fleshy and lush, it’s a seamless and is powerful on the palate right through the drawn- full-­bodied offering. Flavors of leather, vanilla and out, satisfying finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine Judge Palmer 2015 Beckstoffer To Kalon black cherry complement each other, with a hint of LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Herbal toasted oak that lingers on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and grippy in tannin, this is a complex, thickly con- abv: 15.3% Price: $50 centrated wine, not shy in oak or power. The full-­ bodied intensity opens into an expanse of cherry cordial and spicy vanilla. This should do well in the cellar, so enjoy 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Schramsberg 2016 Brut Rosé Méthode Tra- Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Gran Reserva ().­ 93 ditionnelle (North Coast). Subtle flavors 93 Smooth, steady aromas of dark fruits, and a delicately rounded texture help this elegant, Barkan 2016 20 Months Barrel Aged Reserve turned earth and oak grain are exactly what you ­medium-bodied wine stand out. Hints of fresh bread 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galil). Dark ruby in the want from a high-quality Rioja Gran Reserva. On the and raspberries on the nose lead to slightly tangy fla- glass, this wine has a nose of black plum and earth. palate, this is pure and tight, with clarity and struc- vors of ginger and white cherry on the palate. Gentle There is a pleasing mélange of fruit and savory fla- ture. Flavors of dried plum, cherry, raspberry, spice effervescence and just-right acidity lend lift. —J.G. vors, with cassis, blackberry, anise and smoked and cocoa are expansive and finish with elegance. abv: 12.6% Price: $47 meat backed by rigid tannins. The bright finish is Drink through 2040. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ laced with notes of Seville orange. Kosher. Royal Choice. —M.S. Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Spoto 2016 Special Select Amber Knolls 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). This is a firmly textured, concentrated and muscular Bodegas Muriel 2015 Conde de los Andes wine that will need time to open. Currently, tightly 92 (Rioja). Earthy berry, plum and spice aro- Recanati 2016 Special Reserve (Galilee). wound black cherry, cranberry and ­blueberry notes mas are smoky, toasty and integrated on the nose. 93 Deep ruby in color, this wine has a bouquet are reined in by integrated but chewy tannins, while This feels full and saturated on the palate, with of cherry and sage. A network of strong tannins and rich, luxurious chocolate and cherry flavors emerge smooth but present tannins. A jammy flavor profile equally weighted acidity provides structure for fla- on the palate and grow on the finish. Best from includes blackberry and other black fruits, while a vors of blackberry, cassis, toffee and lemon sorbet. 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. vanilla note accents the concentrated berry flavors The rich, satisfying finish is punctuated by a sur- abv: 14.4% Price: $100 on the finish. This has the stuffing and structure to prisingly bright finale. Kosher. Palm Bay Interna- age a long time; best 2024–2035. Quintessential tional. Editors’­ Choice. —M.D. Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $50

B.R. Cohn 2017 Pinot Noir (North Coast). This 92 elegant, medium- to full-bodied wine offers flavors of raspberry, black cherry and black tea, Buena Vista 2017 Chateau Buena Vista ­Pinot Rodney Strong 2016 Blue Wing Vineyard while a firm and nicely tart texture provides great 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Aromas of black tea 93 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This displays balance. Subtle oak spices add complexity from the and cardamom greet the nose, with layers of blue- heady aromas of apple, ginger and toasted brioche. aroma through the finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. berry and blackberry in the background. Flavors of Juicy and lengthy, the palate dazzles in underly- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cranberry, cherry and orange provide freshness on ing mineral aspects of stone and earth. Editors’ the full-bodied palate and accentuate the underly- Choice. —V.B. ing acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Croma Vera 2018 Albariño (San Luis Obispo Fesstivity 2016 Brut Rosé Méthode Cham- Goldeneye 2016 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). 92 County). Brisk aromas of Pink Lady apple 92 penoise (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of crisp 92 This wine is full bodied, dark and brood- and freshly cut grapefruit make for an envelop- lemon peel, pluot and watermelon­ show on the ing—in a good way. It has concentrated flavors of ing but not overbearing nose. Flavors of Key lime inviting nose of this sparkling wine. The flavors are black fruit and ripe red berry as well as attractive oak and tangerine are judiciously mellow on the palate, quite focused on the palate, with lemon peel and accents of cinnamon and clove. Fine-grained tannins making for a flavorful yet still crisp wine. —M.K. grapefruit rind pushing into the sharp, precise fin- lend ample support and structure. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $27 ish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 12.5% Price: $49

Five Stones 2016 Nobility 215a (Judean Daou 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). 92 Hills). Dark ruby in the glass, this wine has a Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Petite Sirah 92 The first vintage of Sauvignon Blanc from nose of black currant, mocha and juniper. The tan- 92 (Red Hills). This full-bodied and impressive this producer is a complex and lively to nins are a little stiff at first, which can be overcome wine matches the intense tannins of the variety balance their rich red portfolio. Aromas of jalapeño, by decanting prior to serving. Pleasing flavors of with equally intense fruit flavors for good balance green herbs and wet cement meet with nectarine black cherry, blackberry, cocoa powder and violet on a very big frame. Bright blueberry and blackberry on the nose, while the zesty palate combines bell fade into a long, drying finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts aromas lead to effusive black-fruit and dried fruit pepper, lime peel, peach and tropical fruit. Editors’ Wine LLC. —M.D. flavors, accented by dark chocolate. Best 2023– Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $17 abv: 14.1% Price: $65

Diora 2016 Three Crowns Estate Grown Red J. Lohr 2016 Highlands Bench Pinot Noir 92 (San Bernabe). This red blend is boisterous 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Aromas of black on the nose in aromas of boysenberry, peppercorn, Ghost Block 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- cherry, vanilla, cola and loamy minerality lead into a licorice, cola and caramel. The palate is framed by 92 gnon (Oakville). Blended with 3% Malbec mouthcoating palate of boysenberry, milk chocolate chalky tannins and supportive acidity, showing and 3% Petit Verdot, this opens on a perfumed nose and oaky coconut flavors. This is a no-holds-barred ­flavors of cocoa and rich blackberry jam. —M.K. of sage, lavender and rose petal. Persistent tones of Pinot Noir, with a power that would be suitable for abv: 15% Price: $25 clove and baking spice complement the brooding grilled rib eye. —M.K. blackberry and sanguine notes. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Lava Cap 2016 Reserve Petite Sirah (El Orfila 2016 Estate Roussanne (San Pasqual Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 Cabernet 92 Dorado).­ This is a pure and focused wine 92 Valley). Creamy nectarine, sea salt, cheri- 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is made from that’s uncomplicated by too much oak or overripe- moya and a hint of caramel strike a compelling the producer’s Valley estate, organically ness. It offers the dark, dense concentrated black- balance between savory tones and fresh fruit on farmed, and blended with 25% Merlot. A bright, fruit flavors of the variety on a firm, tannic texture. the nose. The palate also walks a fine line between perfumed nose of rose and sage leads to a soft, cohe- It’s built for aging and should be best from 2023– fresh citrus and underlying creaminess, with hints sive and well-integrated midpalate of dark cherry, 2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. of honey, peach and more salt. Tingling acidity raspberry and hints of vanilla and herb. It shows abv: 15% Price: $32 ensures long aging potential. Drink now–2026. great length and breadth. —V.B. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $60 abv: 13.6% Price: $32

Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 V Cabernet Neyers 2016 AME Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine is made 92 Valley). Robust in spice and oak, this 100% Round Pond 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc with organically farmed grapes from the property’s varietal wine is well structured and full of earthy 92 (Rutherford). This is 100% stainless-steel steepest terrain, a tribute to the winery’s founder, intensity. Black cherry, cassis and an earthy under- fermented, which shows in the fresh, lively acid- Volker. Powerfully built, it’s thick, herbal and oaky, current of gravel and rock give it complexity. Enjoy ity that’s front and center. Flinty wet-stone accents layered in juicy red fruit, sage, cocoa dust and 2021–2026. Cellar Selection. —V.B. give it a bit of texture as bold flavors of lemon and crushed rock. The mineral aspects are profound. abv: 14.6% Price: $100 mango linger on the medium-bodied palate. —V.B. Enjoy 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 14.8% Price: $100

Opaque 2016 Darkness (Paso Robles). 92 Smoked black cherry, cola and charred oak Sanford 2017 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sta. show on the nose of this red blend. There is compel- 92 Rita Hills). Mellow aromas of Asian pear, ling density to the palate, where strong but polished butter-fried apple and a bit of canned pear show on Bel Colle 2016 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Earthy tannins frame flavors of root beer, baking spice and the nose of this appellation blend. The compelling 91 and savory, this opens with aromas of ripe black currant. —M.K. aspect is the grippy palate, which is taut in a chalky black fruit, violet, warm spice, leather and game. On abv: 14.5% Price: $35 tension that presents flavors of sea salt, Pink Lady the palate, vigorous acidity accompanies crushed apple and red pear. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. raspberry, star anise and tobacco alongside envel- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 oping tannins. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Bushong 2018 Cold Roses (Central Coast). Galil Mountain 2015 Yiron (Galilee). Aromas 91 Floral aromas of tuberose and plumeria are 91 of black currant and vanilla custard pave the Lava Cap 2016 Merlot (El Dorado). This ­robust crisp and not overbearing on the nose of this white way for flavors of blackberry, black cherry, dark 91 and flavorful wine is scented with cigar box blend, with additional hints of orange cream and chocolate and butterscotch. This well-balanced and dark chocolate. The palate adds in a black lemongrass. The palate shows a prominent candied- wine has velvety tannins that linger into an orange cherry flavor for a big and complex array of­facets honeydew flavor as well as lime peel and guava, all zest finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —M.D. to savor. A full body and firm tannins give it good leveled by lively acid. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $35 structure and its concentration is intense enough to abv: 13.3% Price: $25 deliver a lingering finish. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

Haras de Pirque 2016 Albis (Maipo Valley). 91 Tightly focused aromas of berry fruits, leather, wild herbs and oak lead to a full-bodied palate that draws inward. Well-applied toasty oak Edge 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan- results in flavors of chocolate, baking spices and Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Hidden Asset Estate 91 der Valley). This wine is blended with 10% black fruits. On the finish, this Cabernet-heavy 91 Vineyards (Santa Barbara County). and 3% Malbec. Spicy leather and blend is warming and lightly herbal. Drink through Winemaker Megan McGrath Gates continues to sweet tobacco combine around bright red fruit and 2023. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.S. hone this blend of five different grapes. A pureed supple tannin. It offers a balanced approach to rich- abv: 14% Price: $50 red-fruit aroma meets with turned earth, leather ness and concentration. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. and wet oak on the nose, while the palate is cohesive abv: 13.9% Price: $24 in flavors of cinnamon, dried herbs, beef jerky and roasted red fruit. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $29

J. Lohr 2017 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Arroyo 91 Seco). Rich and deep on the nose, this bot- Fossil Point 2017 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). tling offers concentrated aromas of black raspberry, 91 Aromas of boysenberry, dried mint and lav- black cherry, cappuccino and oak on the inviting ender show on the nose of this bottling, which is nose. The palate is broad in flavors of black cherry Muscardini 2014 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry crafted by the Center of Effort team. The palate is and boysenberry wrapped in toasty oak, making for 91 Creek Valley). This is an expressive, meaty fresh in floral and dark fruit flavors that ride the a powerful style of Pinot Noir. —M.K. red wine, richly layered in dense flavors of baked steadily rising acidity into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 plum, nougat and marzipan. With a lasting thread abv: 13.9% Price: $22 of spice throughout, from cinnamon to white pep- per, it finds its balance between a savory and sweet character that works and tastes great. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $44

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Cabernet Black Stallion 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Orsi Family 2014 Sagrantino (Dry Creek Val- 91 Sauvignon (California). This full-bodied 90 Valley). Steely and floral on the nose, this 91 ley). This is savory in nature while also rich wine is polished and well balanced, but quite con- wine opens into a lush, textured palate driven by and concentrated in dark fruit. A plush midpalate centrated too. It delivers black cherry and black- fruit. Lemon and peach flavors are complemented of plum and black currant takes on black olive and currant flavors on an almost creamy texture. Plenty by flecks of wet stone and flint, finishing dry and licorice notes as the wine opens. —V.B. of fine-grained tannins add good structure and the delicious. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $34 finish is lingering.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $18

Rodney Strong 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma 91 County).­ Brimming in aromas of peach and Andis 2016 Painted Fields (Sierra Foot- vanilla, this wine is complex and layered. Bright acid- 90 hills). A deft touch of oak gives a baking- ity boosts the rich elements of fruit and oak on the spice vibe to this concentrated, black-fruit focused palate. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. and medium-bodied wine. It feels well rounded abv: 13.5% Price: $17 and mouthfilling, has light tannins and good bal- Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Firepit Red (San ance. It is a blend of 54% , 25% Primitivo, 90 Francisco Bay). Medium bodied and nicely 10% Malbec, 6% Petite Sirah and 5% Cabernet aromatic, this wine is scented with cedar and cin- ­Sauvignon. —J.G. namon over a black cherry flavor. It’s well balanced, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 not heavy, and has an appealing complexity. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

Rodney Strong 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River 91 Valley). Bright in acidity and cradled moder- ate oak, this wine shows a crunchiness to the tan- nins and bright bursts of cranberry, pomegranate and orange peel flavors. Elements of baking spice dot the Doffo 2016 Syrah (Temecula Valley). finish, contrasting well against the rich fruit. —V.B. 90 ­Aromas of purple flowers and syrup abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Bjorn 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell meet with dark mint, nutmeg and mace on the nose 90 Mountain). Candied red fruit defines the of this bottling. There’s an intriguing hint of green core of this 100% varietal wine, with accents of peppercorn on the palate followed by blackberry, cedar, sage and dried herb. Buzzy acidity keeps it thyme and rosemary flavors. —M.K. fresh against a wall of robust ripeness and chalky abv: 13.4% Price: $69 tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $85

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Folie à Deux 2016 Merlot (Alexander Valley). 90 With a soft, moderate structure and light Paulownia 2016 Glass Mountain Vineyard style, this is a well-integrated red that has balanced Judge Palmer 2015 Vintage Select Cabernet 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This wine oak and tannin. Clove, cedar and forest notes season 90 Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is earthy is robust in tannin and ripe fruit, with a savory core a core of plum and dark cherry, finished by a pleasing in truffle and turned earth aromas, with an expan- steeped in earth, tobacco and cedar. Rich notions of jolt of vanilla. —V.B. sive layering on the palate of rich red fruit. Bright cherry and vanilla­ arise on the palate, with a lurking abv: 13.9% Price: $20 acidity and integrated tannins meld with the robust creaminess to the texture. This structured power­ ripeness and rounded edges. —V.B. house should do well in the cellar; enjoy 2022– abv: 14.7% Price: $43 2026. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $145

J. Lohr 2016 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (Paso Robles). This bottling shows acces- sible aromas of black cherry, toasty oak, grilled teri- yaki meat and a hint of purple flowers. The palate Prunotto 2016 Barbaresco. Aromas of oak, brings blackberry and smoked meat flavors framed Lava Cap NV American River Red Cabernet 90 toasted hazelnut and ripe berry mingle with by tannins that rise up toward the finish. —M.K. 90 Sauvignon (California). A big structure coconut and menthol. The aromas carry over to the abv: 14.9% Price: $35 and powerful oak and black-fruit flavors give this linear, tightly wound palate along with sour cherry full-bodied wine a lot of presence. Aromas of cedar, and coffee bean. Give it a few years to unwind. Drink tobacco and black cherry are followed by punchy 2024–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. berry and cassis flavors wrapped in firm tannins. abv: 14% Price: $45 Best after 2022. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

Jason-Stephens 2014 Swing Carménère 90 (Santa Clara Valley). From a grape rarely seen in California, this bottling shows cranberry, crushed carnation, peppercorn and roasted pasilla Rodney Strong 2018 Charlotte’s Home Sau- chile on the nose. The palate is also loaded with 90 vignon Blanc (Sonoma County). This crisp peppery spices and dried chile flavors, which gives Merriam 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian white is steely and bright in acidity. A core of pear, a unique twist to the clean cranberry core. Editors’ 90 River Valley). Fresh flavors of watermelon fig and mint shows a creaminess on the midpalate Choice. —M.K. and cherry expand on the palate in this light red. The that remains balanced and fruit forward through abv: 14.1% Price: $38 oak is subtle and the acidity is supportive, both let- the finish. —V.B. ting the bright fruit shine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.8% Price: $45

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Educated Guess 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Propri- 87 (Napa Valley). Dark cranberry in color, this Rodney Strong 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sau- 90 etary Red Blend (California).­ Tones of char- is an herbal, tart and fruity wine, with a juicy center 90 vignon (Sonoma County). Smoky oak and coal and smoked meat are backed up by ripe, rich of strawberry, grapefruit and lemon. The acidity is firm, grippy tannins rise to the front of the palate blackberry in this dark-colored, moderately tannic lifted and fresh. —V.B. in this reserve-tier wine. It is 100% varietal and and thick-textured wine. Black cherry and clove abv: 12% Price: $20 sourced from multiple vineyards. Thick black fruit nuances develop on the palate and linger on the fin- is complemented by cedar and dried herb atop a ish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. velvety smooth texture. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Merriam 2014 Windacre Estate ­Merlot (Rus- District 7 2017 Estate Grown Pinot Noir 87 sian River Valley). Blended with 10% Caber- Sosie 2016 Vivio Vineyard Roussanne (Ben- 89 (Monterey). This wine starts with aromas of net Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, this is an 90 nett Valley). This wine is from a single site, roasted red cherry, wild tarragon and dried spear- earthy red. Tart acidity and thick tannins provide planted in volcanic soils at 750-feet in elevation. mint on the nose. The earthy flavors extend onto the the frame for full-bodied flavors of baked cherry Aged in neutral oak, it is floral and earthy, with a palate, where flavors of ripe black plum and wild and plum. —V.B. rocky mineral edge joined by apricot and ginger fla- berry meet with more herbs. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 vors within the silky texture. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 BEST BUYS

Kirkland Signature 2015 Signature Series Ca’ Momi 2016 Rosso (California). Lush and 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Bright fruit 91 plush, this spice box of a wine offers a velvety, Textbook 2016 Mise en Place Cabernet Sau- flavors of cassis and cherry dominate in this full- mouthfilling texture and a nicely soft structure of 90 vignon (Oakville). Thick in oak and tannin, bodied wine. Its tannins are on the silky, velvety end melted tannins. It is scented with pencil shavings, this wine has grip and tension that underlie a foun- of the spectrum, with underlying grip and structure cinnamon and tobacco and shows lingering flavors dation of savory cedar, currant, clove and tobacco. for balance. —V.B. of cherry and crème de cassis. Best Buy. —J.G. This will do well over time; enjoy 2022–2026. Cel- abv: 14.9% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 lar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Castle Rock 2017 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Castle Rock 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey­ Guenoc 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (California). 91 Aromas of cassis, charred beef and wet 89 County).­ A snappy black-raspberry ­aroma 89 This medium-bodied wine combines zesty, soil start off this brooding wine. The thick palate meets with wild mint, crushed rose petals and grassy aromas with rich fruit flavors for a well- is framed by firm tannins and solid acidity.Best ­hibiscus on the nose of this reliable bottling. The balanced and appetizing character. It shows plenty Buy. —M.K. palate is fresh in flavors of dark-red fruit and boy- of citrus, green apple and gooseberry tones. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $12 senberry, but made more complex by earthy herbs, Buy. —J.G. and finishes on the riper end of the spectrum.Best abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

LangeTwins 2018 Estate Grown Musqué Clone 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). A generous fruitiness Maggio 2016 Petite Sirah (Lodi). While is wound up tightly in this tangy, concentrated and 89 hardly a weakling, this fresh and flavorful well-balanced wine. It leads with vibrant citrus and Gnarly Head 2017 1924 Double Black Limited wine is lighter than usual for the variety and ready gooseberry aromas, followed by tight fruit flavors 89 Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Ripe in to enjoy. It has a tempting blackberry aroma, ripe that expand on the palate and linger nicely on the flavor and big but soothing in mouthfeel, this full-­ and concentrated black-fruit flavors and a soothing finish.Best Buy. —J.G. bodied wine coats the palate with jammy black- texture full of soft tannins.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $15 berry, wood smoke and cocoa flavors. A rich texture, abv: 13% Price: $12 mild tannins and concentrated fruit components come ­together nicely. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $13

Noble Vines 2017 667 Pinot Noir (Monterey). 89 Fresh aromas of strawberry, hibiscus and pomegranate are made more complex by hints of B.R. Cohn 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma hickory and chaparral scrub on the nose of this 90 County). Fresh and fruity, this is a light- clonal study. The palate combines berry paste with bodied white that displays a lasting sense of crisp Gnarly Head 2017 1924 Double Black Limited earthy sagebrush flavors, framed by a grippy texture. acidity. Flavors of ripe fig, pear and melon meld 89 Edition Red Wine Blend (Lodi). This smooth, Best Buy. —M.K. with a lasting tease of freshly squeezed lemon. Best almost silky, wine shows a beautiful black-fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $13 Buy. —V.B. tone, with a full-bodied frame and a light touch of abv: 13.5% Price: $15 tannins. It has plenty of black cherry and blackberry flavors accented by baking spices.Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $13

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 BEST BUYS SPIRITS Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 Stonessence 91 Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of funk, earth, black pepper and ember lead to sultry, seamless fruit and savory flavors. A lingering finish caps it off. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $110

Amavi 2016 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). 90 Fruit for this wine spans across the winery’s estate holdings at Seven Hills (30%), Les Collines (25%), Stone Valley (18%), Pepper Bridge (15%) and Summit View (12%) vineyards. Intriguing aro- mas of smoked meat, huckleberry, violet and orange Castle Rock 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Mon- Bauchant Orange Liqueur (France; Palm Bay rind are followed by ripe, full-feeling blue and black 88 terey County). Aromas of red plum and 92 International, Port Washington, NY). Con- fruit flavors. The tannins bring a grainy feel. Give it raspberry are lifted by the slightest hint of cinna- sider this full-flavored, relatively sweet liqueur for some time to settle in. Best after 2022. —S.S. mon on the nose of this bottling. Broad flavors of the dessert table. The golden liquid with orange abv: 14.6% Price: $33 strawberry and red apple make for an approachable highlights is scented with a mix of vanilla and can- palate that begins to lean slightly ripe toward the died orange peel. The viscous palate shows lots of Bledsoe 2017 Lefore Vineyard Syrah (Walla finish.Best Buy. —M.K. vanilla and maple, exiting with orange peel and cin- 90 Walla Valley). This wine comes from the abv: 13.5% Price: $11 namon heat. Best Buy. winery’s estate vineyard in the Rocks District. abv: 40% Price: $25 Aromas of mesquite smoke, barbecue, smoked meat, black pepper, boysenberry and olive lead to medium-bodied mesquite and smoked meat flavors. A firepit-filled finish follows. Give it time to settle in. Best after 2021. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $NA

Noviello 2016 Syrah (Red Mountain). The 90 aromas offer barrel notes of dark roasted coffee bean and spice, along with cherry. Dense, full-bodied fruit flavors follow, with plentiful barrel accents. There’s no question of the warm appella- tion and vintage this wine comes from, but it holds Starward Nova Single Malt (; Park it well. —S.S. Santa Carolina 2017 Carolina Reserva Carme- 92 Street Imports, Miami, FL). This single- abv: 15.5% Price: $52 88 nère (Cachapoal Valley). Lightly herbaceous malt whiskey is matured for two years in barrels aromas suggest a field of flowers, herbs and weeds that previously held red wine. The end result is a Bledsoe 2017 Stolen Horse Syrah (Walla baking in the sun. On the palate, this is round and bright topaz hue and relatively sweet, slightly fruity 88 Walla Valley). The aromas show a lot of approachable in berry and mint flavors. Carolina aroma. The palate opens oaky and drying, showing a reduction out of the gate, with notes of tire rubber Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. rounded cherry note on the midpalate and finishing that distract. Mesquite, raspberry and herb aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 with soft brushes of vanilla and baking spice. Add- mas work to get to the surface. Plentiful smoke and ing water brings out an unexpected espresso note. raspberry flavors follow, tapering toward the finish. abv: 41% Price: $55 There are good things going on, but it seems to be in an uncomfortable spot at present. Perhaps some time will bring it around. Tasted twice with consis- tent notes. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $NA

Forgeron 2016 Anvil Boushey Vineyard Syrah 88 (Yakima Valley). Aromas of dark chocolate, black licorice, blackberry jam, bacon and plum lead to full-bodied, sweet, very jammy fruit flavors that finish warm. The ripeness carries it away, with this oft-expressive vineyard seeming hard to find. Castle Rock 2018 Chardonnay (Central —S.S. 86 Coast). Aromas of apple blossom, oak, abv: 14.8% Price: $65 smoke and cream show on the nose of this bottling. There is a lightly taut texture on the front of the pal- Bondi Bourbon Aged 4 Years (USA; Bondi Gård 2014 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence ate before waves of ripe pear and applesauce grow 88 Distillery, Osakis, MN). Pronounced “Bond- 88 Vineyards Syrah (Columbia Valley). Aromas slightly sweet on the finish.Best Buy. —M.K. eye,” this is a small-batch Bourbon made exclusively of dried cherry, dried herbs and medicine lead to abv: 13.8% Price: $10 from corn and aged four years. It has a burnished full-bodied, ripe dark fruit flavors. The fruit seems gold hue and concentrated oak on nose and palate, a bit desiccated. It finishes quite warm. —S.S. softened by hints of vanilla and almond, winding abv: 15.1% Price: $50 into a spiced, dry finish. abv: 40% Price: $38

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Novelty Hill 2016 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Airfield Estates 2016 (Yakima Val- Joleté 2017 Summit View Vineyard Cabernet 88 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Vanilla, barrel 87 ley). Ripe, hedonistic aromas of blackberry 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This young spice, raspberry and anise aromas lead to a mixture and raspberry jam are followed by quite ripe fruit release Cabernet from an up-and-coming region of blue and black fruit flavors with abundant bar- flavors. A warm, candied finish follows. The ripe- of the valley offers appealing aromas of blue plum, rel accents, with vanilla and nougat out front. Fruit ness carries it away. —S.S. baking spices and dried herbs. It’s loaded with full- and barrel seem to tussle, with the latter winning abv: 14.4% Price: $25 feeling blueberry and cherry flavors that hit the out. —S.S. gong hard. A firm sense of tannin and acid structure abv: 14.4% Price: $28 backs it up. It delivers a lot of quality and value. CABERNET SAUVIGNON Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pondera 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Aromas of café au Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 The Classic lait, dark chocolate, cigar box and barrel spice lead 92 In the Rocks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Noviello 2016 Famiglia DuBrul Vineyard Cab- to broad, textured fruit and barrel flavors. Fruit and (Walla Walla Valley). One of the things so fascinat- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). This comes barrel play equal parts in the show. —S.S. ing about the Rocks District is how soil trumps vari- from one of the state’s top vineyards. Plum, vanilla abv: 14.6% Price: $38 ety. This wine could come from no other place. The and coffee aromas are out front, and soft, sumptu- aromas intrigue, with notes of ember, black olive ous, palate-coating fruit flavors follow. A lingering Pursued by Bear 2015 Baby Bear Syrah brine, dried tobacco and herbs. The palate brings finish caps it off. Beautiful stuff.Editors’ Choice. 88 (Columbia Valley). Barrel aromas of vanilla fresh, abundant, pillowy savory flavors, with plenty —S.S. bean, shaved coconut, dark coffee and bittersweet of green pepper accents. A mouthwatering finish abv: 13.8% Price: $62 chocolate are out front, with black cherry following. caps it off.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Full-bodied fruit and barrel flavors make up the pal- abv: 13.3% Price: $75 Noviello 2016 Quintessence Vineyard Caber- ate, trailing toward the finish. The oak plays a lead- 91 net Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This young ing role, at times getting in the way. —S.S. Abeja 2015 Heather Hill Vineyard Cabernet vineyard is quickly making a name for itself. Wines abv: 14.2% Price: $60 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas like this show why. Coffee ground, black raspberry, intrigue, with notes of sandalwood, anise, vanilla, cedar, herb and spice aromas lead to full-bodied, Waterbrook 2017 Syrah (Columbia Valley). barrel spice, cocoa, herbs and black cherry. Deft, rich, layered black fruit flavors that persist on 88 Brooding cedar, cigar box, chocolate, smoke balanced dark fruit, herb and coffee flavors follow, the finish. It’s a warm vintage wine that pulls no and blueberry aromas are followed by fruit and bar- with fruit and barrel intertwining and playing well punches but still keeps its power in check. Editors’ rel flavors that paint around the edges. The variety off each other. It shows a pleasing sense of density Choice. —S.S. is hard to find, but there is still plenty to enjoy. yet lightness, with enough tannic heft to go the dis- abv: 14.1% Price: $56 —S.S. tance. The barrel influence plays a prominent role abv: 14.5% Price: $15 but plays it well. —S.S. Starside 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia abv: 14.4% Price: $68 91 Valley). Enchanting aromas of huckleberry, Saviah 2017 The Jack Syrah (Columbia Val- parsley, dried herbs, black currant and dried flower 87 ley). The aromas bring notes of plum, herbs, Avennia 2016 Sestina Cabernet Sauvignon lead to full-feeling plum, orange peel and herb fla- orange peel, smoked meat and mesquite smoke. 91 (Columbia Valley). This is the first vintage of vors. Lightly grainy tannins provide support, and Smoke and firepit flavors follow, with mesquite this wine to be designated as a Cabernet Sauvignon, coffee flavors finish it off. It shows a lovely sense of notes on the finish. —S.S. it is blended with the 18% Merlot and 5% Caber- balance, with its best days in front of it—a big time abv: 14.6% Price: $18 net Franc. Dried leaf, cherry cordial, herb, raspberry winner for the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. jam and spice aromas are at the fore. The palate abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Basalt 2016 Syrah (Washington). Not brings a sense of elegance, restraint and structure. 86 entirely harmonious smoke, artichoke and Coffee notes linger on the finish. Those looking for a Amavi 2016 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sau- butterscotch aromas are followed by somewhat big and bold Cabernet should look elsewhere. This 90 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Appealing aro- lighter styled flavors. Slightly grippy tannins back one is all about subtlety. Some time in the cellar mas of dark roasted coffee, café au lait, plum and it up. It’s an unusual offering of the variety. —S.S. will serve it well. Best after 2024, with a long life barrel spice lead to elegant fruit flavors that display abv: 14.6% Price: $36 beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. a charming sense of freshness. It’s a pretty expres- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 sion of the variety, with a lovely sense of balance. —S.S. GRENACHE Doubleback 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla abv: 14.5% Price: $33 91 Walla Valley). Dried herbs, cherry jam, graph- Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence ite and spice lead to ripe, full, fleshy fruit flavors Andrew Januik 2016 Stone Cairn Cabernet 89 Vineyards Grenache (Columbia Valley). Aro- that linger. It comes off as quite ripe but has a pleas- 90 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Initially locked mas of dark raspberry, dried tobacco, dried flower ing yum factor and a fine sense of acidity. Best after up aromas of dried thyme and other assorted herbs and spice lead to full-feeling tobacco, raspberry 2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S. open to reveal notes of pitch black cherry, coffee and and blueberry flavors. Tobacco notes linger on the abv: 14.4% Price: $98 barrel spice. The palate is quite ripe but manages to finish. It’s a unique offering of the variety for the maintain balance through the sweet pit fruit flavors. state—an area worthy of further exploration for this Doubleback 2016 Estate Reserve Cabernet —S.S. variety. —S.S. 91 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 crushed plum, cedar, cigar box, spice and fresh herbs lead to ripe, jammy, tightly wound fruit and Januik 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Novelty Hill 2016 Stillwater Creek Vineyard herb flavors supported by tannins that need signifi- 90 Mountain). Barrel spice, baking spice, 88 Grenache (Columbia Valley). Aromas of cof- cant time to settle in. It’s an intriguing offering of vanilla, herb, coffee and cherry aromas lead to ripe, fee, cherry, char, licorice and barrel spice are fol- the variety, equal parts promise and delivery. Give it rich, full-bodied fruit flavors. This one is all about lowed by rich, dark coffee-laden flavors. A warm, until at least 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S. hedonism and the warmth of the vintage, delivering vanilla-filled finish follows. The variety gets lost, abv: 14.7% Price: $145 both. —S.S. but it still brings appeal. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 abv: 15.2% Price: $28

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Januik 2016 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet ing a bit more structure to support the ripe fruit. Tempus Cellars 2015 Sagemoor Vineyards 90 Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). The aro- —S.S. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tire mas offer notes of dried and fresh herbs, vanilla, abv: 14.4% Price: $30 rubber, coffee and sliced red apple aromas lead to tobacco, coffee and cherry. Plump, rich, ripe black quite ripe, sweet fruit flavors, with plentiful barrel fruit flavors follow, with enough structure to stand Saviah 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla accents. Vanilla notes linger on the finish. It doesn’t them up. Warm vintage yumminess. —S.S. 88 Walla Valley). Fruit from McClellan, Seven all come together at present, with the extraction abv: 14.4% Price: $40 Hills, Dugger Creek and Anna Marie vineyards com- dialed up. Boozy flavors follow. The tannins bring prise this wine. Earth, anise, cedar, baking spice, some grit. —S.S. Andrew Januik 2016 Lady Hawk Cabernet fresh tobacco and cherry aromas lead to pulled- abv: 14.8% Price: $38 89 Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Beguiling back, even-keeled fruit and barrel flavors. Vanilla aromas of dried herbs, graphite, scorched earth, notes linger on the finish. It shows a sense of sub- The Originals 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon plum and spice are followed by plump, well-bal- tlety. —S.S. 87 (Columbia Valley). Quiet green pepper, sug- anced, ripe fruit flavors. It brings a lot of appeal. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 ared plum, red apple and cherry notes lead to soft, —S.S. sweet, dark fruit flavors that display a light styling. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 Swiftwater 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red It’s a pleasant, easy-drinking example of the variety. 88 Mountain). High-register aromas of vanilla, Best Buy. —S.S. Cedar + Salmon 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon baking spices, herbs, cedar and coffee lead to full- abv: 13.6% Price: $12 89 (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas of plum, bodied, extracted dark fruit flavors. Grainy tannins dried herbs, moist earth and cocoa are followed by back it up. It finishes warm. —S.S. Lord Lion 2014 Red Baron Cabernet Sauvi- smooth, soft, palate-coating blue and black fruit fla- abv: 14.6% Price: $50 86 gnon (Walla Walla Valley). In this 100% vors. Fine grained tannins back it up. There’s a lot varietal, aromas of raspberry and blackberry jam are to like. —S.S. Swiftwater 2016 Octave Vineyard Cabernet at the fore, followed by notes of baking spices and abv: 14% Price: $25 88 Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas anise. Plum, quite ripe, sweet black fruit flavors fol- of freshly brewed black coffee and caramel are out low. Chocolate notes linger on the finish. It pushes Januik 2016 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet front. Plum, anise, green herb and cherry jam notes the extreme edges of ripeness. Drink now. —S.S. 89 Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas are behind them. A full-throttled palate follows, abv: 15.2% Price: $36 offer a medley of raspberry, vanilla, black cherry with burly tannins backing it all up. It needs sig- cordial, green herb and barrel spice notes. Quite nificant time in the cellar for the tannins to (hope- Lord Lion 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- ripe fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. It fully?) unwind. —S.S. 86 bia Valley). Barrel aromas are out front, doesn’t seem to have the structure to support all of abv: 14.4% Price: $65 with notes of vanilla extract and anise along with the ripe fruit. —S.S. cherry and plum. Somewhat dried out seeming dark abv: 14.4% Price: $55 Waterbrook 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- fruit and cranberry flavors follow, with abundant 88 gnon (Columbia Valley). Baking spice, dark barrel accents throughout. —S.S. Abeja 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia chocolate, red apple and dried cherry and cranberry abv: 13.9% Price: $34 88 Valley). The aromas are reticent, with notes aromas are out front. The palate brings full-bodied of plum, almond skin, coffee, dried cherry, vanilla fruit flavors, with the tannins bringing a lightly Magnificent Wine Company 2017 MWC Cab and dark chocolate. Plum and flavors, focused in astringent feel. —S.S. 86 Sauv Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val- the middle follow, tapering toward the edges follow. abv: 14.7% Price: $23 ley). Faint black currant, green herb and vanilla The concentration seems quite light initially, flesh- aromas lead to lighter-styled black fruit flavors. A ing out a bit over time. Lightly grainy tannins wrap College Cellars 2016 Estate Clarke Vineyard sweet finish follows.Best Buy. —S.S. it all together. Best after 2023. —S.S. 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Unusual aromas of raspberry jam, green pepper, leafy green herbs and creamsicle lead to soft, light Sagelands 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Forgeron 2014 Anvil Dionysus Vineyard Cab- fruit flavors that trail toward the finish. Coffee 86 (Columbia Valley). Subdued aromas of 88 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Coming notes linger on the finish. It doesn’t quite seem to green pepper, herbs, cherry and a touch of mesquite from Block 11 of this vineyard that was originally have fully ripened and could use more structure to lead to sweet, elegant fruit flavors. The concentra- planted in 1988, aromas of vanilla extract, choco- stand it up. —S.S. tion is light but what is there goes straight down the late, dark cherry, cassis and medicine lead to silky abv: 13.6% Price: $25 fairway. —S.S. fruit and barrel flavors with chalky tannins. The oak abv: 13.6% Price: $12 seems out front at present. —S.S. Forgeron 2015 Anvil Dionysus Vineyard Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 87 net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Raspberry Sagelands 2017 Dark Shadow Cabernet Sau- and blackberry jam and plum seed aromas lead to 86 vignon (Columbia Valley). Light aromas of Januik 2016 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cab- full-bodied black fruit flavors. Firm tannins back it matchstick, plum and burnt caramel lead to soft, 88 ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Pleasing up. The fruit seems overripe, with the warmth of elegant, lightly sweet plump fruit flavors. The con- aromas of dried herbs, barrel spice and cherry lead the vintage showing. —S.S. centration is light, but it shows pleasing balance for to ripe but somewhat subdued fruit flavors where abv: 14.5% Price: $65 a wine at this price. —S.S. the concentration seems pulled back. The tannins abv: 12.98% Price: $12 give a firm squeeze. It’s a pretty expression of the Gård 2014 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence variety. Best after 2022. —S.S. 87 Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Swiftwater 2016 Zephyr Ridge Estate Bot- abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Valley). The aromas bring notes of dried black cur- 86 tled Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven rant, baking spices, mushroom and dried herbs. Hills). Subdued aromas of cassis, vanilla, herbs and Novelty Hill 2016 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Ripe, full, slightly dried out seeming fruit flavors dark chocolate lead to fruit and barrel flavors that 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). follow, finishing warm. The tannins seem a bit paint around the edges, seeming to be missing in the Aromas of leafy herbs, kirsch, black cherry jam and aggressive at present and the fruit somewhat desic- middle. Grainy tannins back it up. The concentra- spice lead to quite ripe fruit flavors. It’s a strange cated. —S.S. tion appears light, and the barrel influence over- mixture of overripe and underripe elements, want- abv: 15.2% Price: $55 weighted. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $42

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Waterbrook 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon there, but what is delights, showing a lovely sense College Cellars 2016 Estate Clarke Vineyard 86 (Columbia Valley). The aromas offer notes of elegance and balance. —S.S. 88 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas of green herbs, smoke, dark chocolate, cherry and abv: 14.4% Price: $30 intrigue, with notes of orange peel, dried tobacco, orange rind. Medium-bodied flavors follow, with vanilla, toast and dark fruit. Broad, creamy-feeling the concentration light initially before broadening. Stateland 2017 Cabernet Franc (Columbia fruit and barrel flavors follow. Coffee and plum There’s plenty to hang the hat on. —S.S. 88 Valley). The aromas are reticent out of the notes linger on the finish. It’s an unusual interpre- abv: 13.7% Price: $15 gate, with notes of spice, blue fruit, dried herbs tation of the variety. —S.S. and a whiff of smoke. Elegant fruit flavors follow, abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Maryhill 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- focused in the middle. It’s well-constructed. —S.S. 85 bia Valley). Aromas of wood spice, tire rub- abv: NA Price: $22 Gård 2016 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence ber and cherry lead to ripe fruit flavors that paint 88 Vineyards Merlot (Columbia Valley). Aromas around the edges. The tannins give a firm squeeze. Cor Cellars 2017 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cab- of barrel spice, vanilla, black cherry, dried tobacco A coffee-filled finish follows. —S.S. 87 ernet Franc (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas and savory herbs are followed by light, elegant, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 of campfire, mesquite, herbs, mushroom and red well-balanced fruit flavors. The concentration cherry lead to medium-bodied, fresh-seeming fruit seems light, but what’s there is spot-on, though the Washington Hills 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon flavors. Smoky accents follow. It brings a lovely variety is a bit hard to find. —S.S. 84 (Washington). Light aromas of assorted sense of styling. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $40 fresh herbs, sugared plum and leaf lead to slightly abv: 13.3% Price: $28 sweet, lightly smoky flavors, with a mesquite-filled Novelty Hill 2016 Merlot (Columbia Valley). finish. —S.S. College Cellars 2016 Clarke Vineyard Caber- 88 Fresh and savory herbs, roasted coffee bean, abv: 13.2% Price: $10 85 net Franc (Walla Walla Valley). Dried orange bittersweet chocolate, cherry licorice and dark fruit peel and tobacco notes lead to supple, light plum aromas are out front. The plush palate is packed in Castle Rock 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and orange peel flavors. The extraction seems dialed the middle, lighter along the edges. —S.S. 83 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of smoke, mes- back and the variety hard to find. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $23 quite, herbs and blue fruit lead to moderately smoky abv: 14% Price: $30 flavors. Chocolate and coffee notes linger on the fin- Waterbrook 2015 Reserve Merlot (Columbia ish. —S.S. Lord Lion 2014 Cabernet Franc (Columbia 88 Valley). The aromas are high register, with abv: 13.5% Price: $12 85 Valley). Not entirely harmonious dark choc- notes of dried herbs, coffee and black cherry. Lus- olate, butterscotch and sour aromas lead to some- cious fruit and barrel flavors follow, with the tan- what lighter styled fruit flavors. A quite warm finish nins giving a squeeze that only Washington Merlot CABERNET FRANC follows. It pushes the boundaries of overripeness. could. The barrel influence gets a bit in the way, but —S.S. there are still good things going on. —S.S. Swiftwater 2016 Cabernet Franc (Columbia abv: 15.2% Price: $38 abv: 14% Price: $23 90 Valley). Toast, dried cherry, cassis, licorice and herb aromas are out front, bringing appeal. Maryhill 2016 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Well-balanced, fresh-seeming fruit and barrel fla- MERLOT 86 Wood spice, tire rubber, green wood and vors follow, carrying through the warm finish. The cherry aromas stand out on the nose. Rich fruit and tannins give a firm squeeze, needing time to soften. Abeja 2016 Merlot (Columbia Valley). High- plentiful barrel flavors intertwine on the palate, The balance kicks it up a notch. —S.S. 90 register aromas of baking spices, dried with the latter taking over. Coffee notes linger on abv: 14.1% Price: $42 herbs, dried leaf and toast lead to deft, plump dark the finish. The style gets in front of the fruit. —S.S. fruit flavors with ample barrel notes to go along abv: 14.5% Price: $21 Januik 2016 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet with them. It shows a sense of refinement and ele- 88 Franc (Wahluke Slope). The aromas offer gance that heightens the appeal. There’s plenty of Castle Rock 2017 Merlot (Columbia Valley). notes of vanilla, cherry, herbs and baking spices, richness as well, with fruit and barrel playing equal 85 Aromas of raspberry, blue fruit, green pep- mixing equal parts fruit and barrel. Ripe, plump parts. —S.S. per, orange peel and a whiff of smoke lead to confec- but light fruit flavors follow. It doesn’t entirely hold abv: 14.5% Price: $45 tionary fruit flavors. Grippy tannins back it up. It together throughout. —S.S. doesn’t all seem to have fully ripened. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Januik 2016 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot (Red abv: 13.5% Price: $12 90 Mountain). The ripe raspberry, plum, Pondera 2015 Reserve Stillwater Creek spice and herb aromas show nuance. Plump, well- Sagelands 2017 Merlot (Columbia Valley). 88 Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). balanced, slightly candied fruit flavors follow. It’s a 85 Mesquite smoke, tire rubber, plum and Heightened aromas of bittersweet chocolate, dried pleasing warm vintage, warm appellation example currant aromas lead to off-dry fruit flavors that go and fresh herbs, black currant, dried cranberry, of the variety. —S.S. down easy. —S.S. flower and Twizzler are out front. The palate mixes abv: 14.4% Price: $35 abv: 13.6% Price: $12 fruit and barrel flavors in equal parts, with the fruit seeming a bit dried out. A lick of firm tannins ties it Novelty Hill 2016 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Lord Lion 2014 Merlot (Columbia Valley). all together. —S.S. 90 Merlot (Columbia Valley). The aromas bring 84 Aromas of anise, cherry , red apple abv: 14.8% Price: $65 appeal, with notes of roasted coffee bean, dark and pencil eraser lead to light fruit flavors. Slightly chocolate, toast, herbs, cassis, vanilla and flower, gritty tannins back it up. —S.S. Saviah 2015 Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla showing pleasing nuance. The palate brings a sense abv: 14.8% Price: $28 88 Valley). A blend of Summit View, Dugger of elegance to the fruit and barrel flavors, along with Creek and Water vineyard fruit, alluring aromas of a zing of acidity. Considerably more restrained and Waterbrook 2017 Merlot (Columbia Valley). green, savory herbs, dusty cherry, dark chocolate elegant than recent warm , it shows lovely 84 Vibrant aromas of green herbs, orange oil, and earth lead to light, elegant fruit and savory balance to the fruit and barrel flavors.Editors’ plum, smoke and Vicks VapoRub lead to lightly flavors. The concentration doesn’t seem to be all Choice. —S.S. styled fruit flavors. It’s an unusual offering of the abv: 14.4% Price: $28 variety. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 bright acid and firm tannins. Barrel notes linger on Full Pull & Friends 2008 CVBDX (Columbia MALBEC the finish. It should excel at the dinner table. —S.S. 91 Valley). Already 10-plus years old, the aro- abv: 14.8% Price: $25 mas are in full bloom, with notes of cherry meats, Januik 2016 Champoux Vineyard Malbec herbs, graphite, wood spice and anise. A tightly 90 (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas provide Basalt 2016 Petit Verdot (Washington). wound, full-flavored palate follows, with firm, notes of bittersweet chocolate, fresh herbs, orange 86 High-toned aromas of barrel spice, flower, slightly grippy tannins backing it up. It still has time peel and graphite. Ripe, soft plum and dark fruit soil and dark chocolate lead to smoky fruit flavors. in front of it. Give it a short decant if drinking in the flavors follow. It brings a sense of hedonism. —S.S. The tannins give a firm squeeze. The smokiness gets near term. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 in the way. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $36 Waterbrook 2016 Reserve Malbec (Columbia Gård 2015 Vaucluse Red Wine Lawrence Estate 88 Valley). Coffee, herb, vanilla extract, wood Airfield Estates 2016 Petit Verdot (Yakima 91 Wines Columbia (Columbia Valley). Syrah spice and cherry aromas and flavors are prominent. 83 Valley). Aromas of sawdust, barnyard, dried comprises 72% of this wine, with the rest 27% Slightly desiccated seeming fruit flavors follow. The mushroom, Band-Aid and cherry lead to a palate Grenache and just 1% Viognier. Subdued aromas of oak steals the show. —S.S. that shows more of the same. Firm tannins back it green olive, smoked meat, blue fruit, ripe raspberry abv: 14% Price: $23 up. It doesn’t work. —S.S. and flower lead to a flavorful palate that delights. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 The finish draws out.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Gård 2015 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence abv: 14.9% Price: $35 87 Vineyards Malbec (Columbia Valley). Aromas of graphite, cassis, coffee and herbs lead to quite Saviah 2016 Une Vallée Red Wine (Walla Walla ripe, slightly candied seeming fruit flavors, with 91 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon (62%) takes the plentiful barrel accents. Coffee notes linger on the Saviah 2015 Tempranillo (Walla Walla Val- lead in this wine, followed by Merlot (24%), Cab- finish. The warmth of the vintage shows. —S.S. 89 ley). This wine is a blend of fruit from Funk, ernet Franc (12%) and Petit Verdot. Earth, fresh abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Dugger Creek and Watermill vineyards. Aromas of tobacco, dark chocolate, herbs and barrel spice aro- braised bell pepper, pie cherry, green herbs, baking mas are followed by a full-flavored palate, mixing Maryhill 2016 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Red spices and earth are followed by soft, sumptuous fruit and savory flavors. It has a nice yum factor. 87 raspberry compote, plum and wood spice cherry and dark chocolate flavors. It brings a lot of Editors’ Choice. —S.S. aromas lead to plump red fruit flavors. It offers intrigue. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $38 plenty of appeal. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Januik 2016 Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). College Cellars 2017 Anderson Vineyard Tem- 90 Spice, cherry jam and herb aromas are fol- Swiftwater 2016 Malbec (Columbia Valley). 88 pranillo (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas lowed by ripe, jammy fruit flavors that bring a sense 87 Aromas of dark roasted coffee, char, plum, intrigue, with notes of cocoa nib, plum and boysen- of deliciousness. Coffee notes linger on the finish. fresh and dried green herbs, vanilla and cassis are berry. Plump fruit and barrel flavors, light in the The warmth of the vintage shows, but it still brings followed by somewhat lighter styled fruit and bar- middle, follow, fleshing out a bit with time open. a lot of appeal. —S.S. rel flavors, with the fruit focused around the edges. The tannins bring a lightly grainy feel. Cocoa notes abv: 14.4% Price: $65 Lightly grainy tannins provide support. The oak linger on the finish. —S.S. seems overweighted for the fruit that is in the glass. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Novelty Hill 2016 Cascadia (Columbia Val- —S.S. 90 ley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-driven abv: 14.4% Price: $42 Cor Cellars 2017 Sugarloaf Vineyard Tempra- wine is closed up aromatically out of the gate, with 88 nillo (Yakima Valley). Coming in at an alco- brooding notes of barrel spice, black currant, bit- College Cellars 2016 Clarke Vineyard Malbec hol level nearly unheard of for modern day red wines tersweet chocolate, black raspberry and herbs. Ripe, 86 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas announce in the state, subdued aromas of dried tobacco, ash layered, somewhat elegant red and black fruit fla- themselves with notes of soot, braised green pepper, and cherry are followed by well-balanced fruit fla- vors follow. —S.S. fresh ground tobacco and jalapeño. Lighter-styled, vors that display a sense of elegance. Citrus streaks abv: 14.4% Price: $50 juicy fruit flavors on the palate don’t fully follow run throughout. The tannins bring a lightly tacky through on the aroma’s promise. The fruit doesn’t feel, needing some food to bring them into check. Noviello 2016 Brava (Red Mountain). Cab- seem to have fully ripened at times, but it provides It should shine at the dinner table, bringing a lovely 90 ernet Sauvignon comprises half of this interest all the same. —S.S. sense of purity and structure. —S.S. wine, with the rest near equal parts Petit Verdot, abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 12.9% Price: $28 Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Brooding aromas of coffee, spices and herbs lead to focused, well-bal- Waterbrook 2016 Malbec (Columbia Valley). anced fruit and barrel flavors. Best by 2024. —S.S. 84 Disjointed aromas of dried orange rind, wet RED BLENDS abv: 14.3% Price: $52 penny and plum are followed by quite lightly styled fruit flavors that dip in the middle. It doesn’t all tie Avennia 2016 Valery (Columbia Valley). Mer- Ryan Patrick 2016 Rock Island Red Red Wine together. —S.S. 91 lot from old blocks at Boushey Vineyards 90 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of baking spices, abv: 13.8% Price: $15 make up 70% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet coconut, vanilla, anise and blackberry lead to full- Franc from esteemed Champoux Vineyard. Fasci- bodied fruit and barrel flavors. Coconut and vanilla nating aromas of ripe red raspberry, earth, green notes linger on the finish. The oak plays a very PETIT VERDOT herbs, cigar box and flower are followed by ripe, prominent part in the show. —S.S. hedonistic fruit flavors that show the warmth of the abv: 14.5% Price: $20 College Cellars 2016 Clarke Vineyard Petit vintage. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s brings 90 Verdot (Walla Walla Valley). Very varietal, unignorable appeal and will have a very long life in Waterbrook 2017 Melange Founder’s Red brooding green herb, lemon zest and violet aro- front of it. Best after 2023.Cellar Selection. —S.S. 89 Wine (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sau- mas are followed by cherry, herb and cocoa flavors, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 vignon (42%), Merlot (25%), Syrah (20%) and Cabernet Franc (13%) make up most of this wine. Pungent aromas of blueberry, plum, fresh herbs,

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BUYINGGUIDE flower, smoke and sweet spice lead to ripe, soft blue The palate paints around the edges, seeming light Airfield Estates 2016 Founders Series H. fruit and herb flavors, with black currant notes on in the middle. Grainy tannins provide the scaffold- 84 Lloyd Miller (Yakima Valley). Aromas of the finish. It hits the mark, with a pleasing sense of ing. —S.S. mushroom, sawdust, char, medicine, barnyard and balance and enough structure to stand it up. Best abv: 13.7% Price: $17 Band-Aid lead to dark fruit flavors that show more Buy. —S.S. of the same. It doesn’t all work, with the style over- abv: 14% Price: $13 Cana’s Feast 2016 Bricco Red Red Wine riding the fruit. —S.S. 87 (Columbia Gorge). (64%) makes abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Cana’s Feast 2016 Two Rivers (Columbia Val- up the heart of this wine, with the rest Syrah (12%), 88 ley). Merlot (35%), Cabernet Franc (29%), Primitivo (8%), Malbec (7%), Nebbiolo (6%) and Lord Lion 2013 Noble Gent (Columbia Valley). and Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) make up the heart Barbera. The aromas bring notes of cedar, herbs, 82 Oxidative notes of dried cherry and varnish of this wine, which is finished off with Malbec. cranberry and cherry. Luxurious-feeling cherry fla- lead to ripe, slightly sweet fruit flavors. —S.S. Fresh raspberry and cranberry aromas are sprinkled vors follow. Tart acidity rounds it out. It doesn’t all abv: 14.6% Price: $32 with soil, mushroom and herb accents. Full-bodied, quite stitch together. —S.S. palate-coating fruit flavors follow. Surprisingly tart abv: 14.5% Price: $18 acidity—which seems a bit out of place—caps it off. OTHER RED WINES Perhaps some time will reel it in. —S.S. Cana’s Feast 2015 Joie de Vivre Red Wine Des- abv: 14.3% Price: $18 87 tiny Ridge Vineyard (Columbia Valley). Syrah Tero Estates 2014 Windrow Vineyards Char- (37%) and Counoise (29%) make up the majority of 90 bono (Walla Walla Valley). This is the only Forgeron 2017 Blacksmith Rouge (Columbia this wine, with the rest near equal parts Mourvèdre example of this variety I am aware of in the valley. 88 Valley). Coming from fruit from Yakima Val- and Grenache. The aromas of raspberry and cherry Captivating aromas of potpourri and red and blue ley and Red Mountain, Grenache and Syrah (37%) candy seem light. Soft, medium-bodied fruit and fruit lead to medium-bodied flavors that show a play equal parts, with the rest Mourvèdre (26%). barrel flavors follow. It all seems a bit subdued. compelling sense of freshness and acidity. Citrus The aromas intrigue, with notes of flower, orange —S.S. notes linger on the finish. It screams out for food peel, freshly ground black pepper, blackberry jam abv: 14.5% Price: $32 alongside it. —S.S. and green herbs. The palate shows a lovely sense abv: 14.2% Price: $NA of deftness, balance and detail to the fruit and herb Cana’s Feast 2015 Two Rivers (Columbia Val- flavors that keep the interest up. —S.S. 87 ley). Light aromas of baking spices, dusty Ago 2017 Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). The abv: 14.3% Price: $25 earth, char, cranberry and a piercing herb note lead 88 aromas offer notes of herbs, smoke, mes- to pitch black fruit flavors. The tannins and acid- quite, strawberry, cigar box, and flower. Light, Saviah 2015 Big Sky Cuvée Red Wine (Colum- ity seem to tussle. Perhaps some additional time in plump, elegant fruit and smoke flavors follow. It’s a 88 bia Valley). Merlot makes up half of this bottle will settle the battle. —S.S. lovely expression of the variety. —S.S. wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Cabernet Franc (12%) and equal parts Malbec and Petit Verdot. Subdued aromas of black fruit and Sagelands 2017 Riverbed Red (Columbia Val- Noviello 2016 Sangiovese (Rattlesnake barrel spice lead to full-bodied fruit flavors. A warm 87 ley). Aromas of freshly peeled tangerine, 88 Hills). The aromas are elusive, not ready finish follows. The warmth of the vintage shows. smoked meat, plum, blueberry, herbs, cocoa and a to reveal their charms. Smoky notes emerge over —S.S. kiss of vanilla lead to plump-feeling blue fruit fla- time. The palate is lovely, though the variety seems abv: 14.6% Price: $40 vors. It hits the mark, with a pleasing sense of bal- impossible to distinguish. —S.S. ance and length. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Tempus Cellars 2016 Red Wine (Columbia abv: 13.6% Price: $12 88 Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) makes College Cellars 2017 Clarke Vineyard Carme- up the bulk of this wine, with the rest equal parts Airfield Estates 2016 Mustang (Yakima Val- 87 nère (Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of fresh Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Aromas of wet penny, 85 ley). Syrah (75%) and Grenache (23%) and dried green herbs along with braised green pep- herbs, cherry and pencil eraser are followed by full- make up most of this wine, with the balance per and jalapeño lead to somewhat lighter styled bodied fruit flavors. There are good things there, but Mourvèdre. Aromas of blackberry jam, smoke, fruit and herb flavors that paint around the edges. it doesn’t appear to have entirely settled in, improv- herbs, black fruit and tin lead to ripe, easy-going It intrigues, with the variety expressing itself. —S.S. ing with time open. —S.S. black fruit flavors and a warm finish. The fruit abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $28 seems a bit overripe. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Airfield Estates 2016 Aviator (Yakima Val- SAUVIGNON BLANC 87 ley). Aromas of smoke, wet metal and dark, Basalt 2016 Estate Cuvée (Lewis-Clark Val- ripe raspberry lead to somewhat smoky seeming 85 ley). This wine consists of 20% each of Januik 2018 Sagemoor Vineyards Sauvignon fruit flavors. Grainy tannins back it up. The warmth the five major Bordeaux varieties. Herb garden aro- 90 Blanc (Columbia Valley). The aromas are of the vintage shows. —S.S. mas mix with notes of raspberry, clove, smoke, tire subdued, with notes of lemon zest, sweet herbs, fig abv: 14.3% Price: $30 rubber and menthol. The palate paints around the and tropical fruit. Juicy, sweet, full-feeling tropical edges, with plentiful herb notes. —S.S. fruit flavors follow. It’s a somewhat riper style of the Airfield Estates 2016 Runway (Yakima Val- abv: 13.1% Price: $42 variety that delivers. —S.S. 87 ley). This wine is 55% Cabernet Franc abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and 45% Merlot. Reserved aromas of fresh herbs, Buty 2016 BEAST Wildebeest (Columbia Val- flower, smoke, raspberry and cassis lead to ripe, 85 ley). Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon make Gård 2017 Lawrence Estate Wines Lawrence fruit and mesquite flavors. Lightly gritty seeming up the heart of this wine, with the rest smidgens of 89 Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Val- tannins back it up. —S.S. Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Merlot. The aromas ley). Aromas of cantaloupe, kiwi and peach lead to a abv: 14.3% Price: $30 of orange peel, fresh herbs, flower and plum lead to broad mouthful of tropical fruit flavors that include flavors that are light on their feet. It seems to show pineapple, kiwi and papaya. A slightly warm but Apex 2017 The Catalyst (Columbia Valley). a light oxidative note. —S.S. still mouthwatering finish caps it off. —S.S. 87 The aromas are hard to tease out, with notes abv: 13.7% Price: $24 abv: 14.7% Price: $17 of herbs, mesquite and cherry in the background.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Novelty Hill 2018 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Washington Hills 2017 Dry (Wash- Forgeron 2017 Anvil Old Wente Block French 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Appeal- 86 ington). The aromas are light, with notes 90 Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). ing aromas of lemon oil, freshly rubbed herb and fig of fresh thyme, apricot and stone fruit. A hair off- Fruit for this wine, aged 16 months in Burgundy lead to medium-plus bodied fruit flavors that per- dry, with full-feeling peach flavors following, and barrels, comes from 1981 plantings. The candlewax, sist on the finish. The palate brings a sense of heft. enough acidity to keep the interest up. Best Buy. vanilla, mineral, pear and spice aromas intrigue. A warm finish caps it off. —S.S. —S.S. Full-bodied, creamy-feeling stone fruit and barrel abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 11.7% Price: $10 flavors follow. A warm finish caps it off. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $48 Airfield Estates 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Washington Hills 2017 Riesling (Washing- 88 (Yakima Valley). This is a tropical fruit 86 ton). Pungent aromas of fresh thyme are in Forgeron 2016 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- bomb, with aromas of banana, melon, herbs and front of botrytis and Nestea iced tea. Medium-sweet 90 ley). Fruit for this wine comes from the kiwi. The lightly styled palate brings more of the stone fruit flavors follow, with enough acidity to Yakima Valley (50%), Wahluke Slope (26%), same, drawing out on the finish. It has a distinctive keep it in check. It’s a straightforward quaffer that’s Columbia Gorge (21%) and Walla Walla Valley style. —S.S. well-priced. Best Buy. —S.S. (3%). Aromas of toast, clarified butter, lemon curd, abv: 12.8% Price: $15 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 candy corn, summer squash and spice are followed by creamy, well-balanced fruit flavors. A warm fin- Kerloo 2018 Lonesome Springs Ranch Sauvi- ish caps it off. It’s a lot of wine for the money.Edi - 88 gnon Blanc (Yakima Valley). Lightly styled CHARDONNAY tors’ Choice. —S.S. aromas of herbs, kiwi, lemon zest, papaya and min- abv: 13.6% Price: $28 eral lead to broad-feeling but focused citrus and Ago 2018 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay herb flavors. Vibrant, edgy acidity heightens the 93 (Columbia Gorge). Vineyard-focused aromas Abeja 2017 Chardonnay (Washington). Aro- appeal. Pair it with blackened rockfish with a pine- of flower, talc, mineral, whole lemon and pear lead 88 mas of slightly burnt toast, clarified butter, apple-kiwi salsa. —S.S. to sleek, well-balanced, acid-driven flavors. Lemony corn silk and spice lead to medium-bodied fruit and abv: 12.3% Price: $26 acidity brightens the palate and lengthens the fin- barrel flavors. Lemony notes linger on the finish. ish. There’s a compelling sense of purity that com- The style seems to override the fruit at times. —S.S. Magnificent Wine Company 2017 MWC Sauv pletely captivates. It’s an exceptional example of abv: 14.1% Price: $40 86 Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). this variety, vineyard and vintage. Editors’ Choice. The aromas seem completely shut down at present. —S.S. Forgeron 2018 Otherworldly Unoaked Char- Tart, sleekly styled flavors bring a pleasing zip of abv: 13.4% Price: $32 88 donnay (Columbia Valley). The aromas are acidity. If the aromas open, it could move up. Best subdued at present, with light notes of apple, pear Buy. —S.S. Januik 2017 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardon- and cinnamon. Full-bodied stone fruit flavors fol- abv: 12.6% Price: $11 92 nay (Columbia Valley). Year after year, this low, showing an appealing sense of texture. A warm wine brings consistently high quality, and this vin- finish caps it off. It’s a lovely example of the style. Washington Hills 2017 Sauvignon Blanc tage does not disappoint. Aromas of pumpkin spice, —S.S. 84 (Washington). Aromas of toasted Grape- straw, mineral and a whiff of toast enchant, show- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Nuts, herbs, citrus and wet metal lead to lighter- ing a pleasing sense of subtlety. Full, textured pear, styled fruit flavors. The palate is pleasant, but the peach, lees and spice flavors follow, intertwining on Waterbrook 2017 Reserve Chardonnay aromas don’t match up. —S.S. the lemony finish, with a toasty note that caps it off. 88 (Columbia Valley). The aromas are sub- abv: 12.6% Price: $10 It’s completely delightful. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. dued, with notes of spice, toast, clarified butter and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 peach. Broad feeling but still elegant fruit flavors follow, dipping in the middle. Toasty notes linger on RIESLING Novelty Hill 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard the finish. The oak is front and center, but for those 91 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The aromas looking for this style, it delivers. —S.S. Tempus Cellars 2018 Evergreen Vineyard draw you into the glass, with notes of corn silk, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 Riesling (Ancient Lakes). The aromas pop, spice, almond and stone fruit that lead to beauti- with notes of lime leaf, pine, freshly squeezed lime, fully balanced flavors, packed with fruit. A long, lin- Pondera 2017 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Char- chalk, flower, apricot and Mandarin orange. The off- gering finish caps it off. Lively acidity provides the 87 donnay (Columbia Valley). Toast and clari- dry lemon Nestea iced tea and orange flavors deliver. structure. Delicious stuff.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. fied butter aromas lead to flavors that show more Ginger notes linger on the finish. It screams out for abv: 13.5% Price: $23 of the same. The style rides over the variety. —S.S. food alongside it. Pair it with shrimp ceviche with abv: 14.4% Price: $30 a healthy dose of lime juice. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Airfield Estates 2018 Donald D. Miller Char- abv: 12.7% Price: $20 90 donnay (Yakima Valley). Appealing aromas Lord Lion 2015 Royal Pride Chardonnay of straw, corn silk, candy corn, vanilla and lemon 86 (Columbia Valley). Aromas of toast, reduc- Gård 2016 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence curd lead to full-feeling peach and apricot flavors tion, banana and peach lead to light, sweet fruit fla- 89 Vineyards Riesling (Columbia Valley). speckled with spice accents. A pleasing sense of vors. It finishes warm. —S.S. Enchanting aromas of lime zest, spice and Manda- acidity carries the flavors through the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $18 rin orange lead to full-bodied orange and apricot abv: 13.6% Price: $40 flavors that show a sense of subtlety. It’s an intrigu- Washington Hills 2017 Chardonnay (Wash- ing example of the variety. —S.S. Buty 2017 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay 85 ington). Aromas of cinnamon and spice lead abv: 13.8% Price: $28 90 (Columbia Valley). The aromas are light, to slightly sweet, medium-bodied fruit flavors. It’s with notes of lees, wet stone, pear, candlewax, straight down the fairway. —S.S. Whispering Tree 2018 Riesling (Columbia candy corn, citrus peel and clove. The palate shows abv: 13.5% Price: $11 88 Valley). Aromas of peach, jasmine, flower a compelling sense of balance to the deft, light, and nectarine lead to almost bone-dry stone fruit creamy flavors, with lively acidity brightening the Waterbrook 2017 Icon Estate Chardonnay flavors. Nervy acidity provides much of the appeal. flavors and lengthening the finish. It’s an intriguing, 85 (Walla Walla Valley). Vanilla bean, cara- Best Buy. —S.S. lees-driven wine. —S.S. mel, melted butter and toast aromas are out front. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.7% Price: $42

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BUYINGGUIDE

Lighter-styled barrel and fruit flavors follow. The tering acidity. It captivates, showing impressive bal- Kerloo 2018 Blue Mountain Vineyard Grenache oak and malolactic influences take over. —S.S. ance and detail along with a sense of seriousness 91 Blanc (Walla Walla Valley). Brooding aromas abv: 13.42% Price: $28 and purpose. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. of lemon peel, wet stone, mango and herbs lead to abv: 13.4% Price: $40 broad, flavorful citrus, tropical fruit and mineral Waterbrook 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia notes. The acidity carries the finish off into the dis- 84 Valley). The aromas are hard to tease out, Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 Queen’s tance. It’s lovely. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. with light notes of peach, spice and cinnamon. A 92 Road White Estate White In the Rocks Vine- abv: 12.1% Price: $20 broad but not entirely cohesive-feeling palate fol- yard (Walla Walla Valley). A blend of 55% Rous- lows. —S.S. sanne and 45% Viognier. The aromas show notes of Gård 2016 Grand Klasse Reserve Lawrence abv: 13.9% Price: $15 apricot, herbs, lees, almond, cinnamon and wet rock 89 Vineyards Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). Bar- along with an intriguing savory note. The palate is rel aged and having spent time on lees, this is a Castle Rock 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- light on its feet, while showing texture, intensity unique offering of this variety in the state. The aro- 83 ley). Roasted corn on the cob aromas are at and depth. A long, umami-filled finish follows. It’s mas are light, with notes of pear, corn husk, almond the fore. The palate brings ale and some off notes. fascinating, both intellectually and hedonistically. and spice. A dry, broad, full-feeling palate follows. It Toast, char and coffee flavors linger on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. finishes warm. —S.S. —S.S. abv: 13.2% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Buty 2017 66% Sémillon 18% Sauvignon 16% Maryhill 2018 Gunkel Vineyards Muscat Sagelands 2017 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 91 Muscadelle (Columbia Valley). This blend 88 Canelli (Columbia Valley). The aromas pop, 83 ley). Aromas of burnt toast and peach lead offers notes of lees, fig, pineapple, flower, Manda- with notes of Mandarin orange, flower, jasmine and to toasty, sweet flavors. The wood influence com- rin orange and spice. Broad, textured-feeling flavors lime zest. Medium-plus sweet fruit flavors follow. It pletely takes over. —S.S. follow. Fig notes linger on the finish. Don’t open has broad appeal with a big yum factor. —S.S. abv: 13.62% Price: $12 until after 2022, and it has a future well beyond abv: 13.5% Price: $17 that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $25 Maryhill 2018 Proprietor’s Reserve Albariño VIOGNIER 88 (Columbia Valley). Whole cantaloupe, kiwi Cor Cellars 2017 ALBA Pinot Gris-Gewürztra- and pineapple aromas lead to medium-bodied, Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Estate 90 miner (Columbia Gorge). Pinot Gris makes sweet canned pineapple flavors. It has a pleasing 92 White In the Rocks Vineyard Viognier (Walla up 65% of this wine, with the rest Gewürztraminer. yum factor that should deliver broad appeal. —S.S. Walla Valley). Arresting aromas of wet stone, talc, The aromas announce themselves, with notes of abv: 13.6% Price: $25 honey-drizzled peach and apricot are followed by ginger, mineral, white flowers, lychee and a whiff of full-bodied, mineral-laden flavors, showing excep- smoke. Textured-feeling fruit flavors and light mes- tional balance, length and depth. There is a savory quite accents follow, with a warm finish. It captures SPARKLING WINE aspect of the wine that heightens the interest. A the vintage exquisitely. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. long finish follows. It’s a standout.Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 Ago 2018 Sparkling (Columbia Gorge). A —S.S. 92 mixture of Gewürztraminer (86%) and abv: 14% Price: $60 Cadaretta 2018 SBS Sauvignon Blanc-Semi- Pinot Gris (14%), this carbonated sparkler comes 88 llon (Columbia Valley). Vibrant aromas of from Oak Ridge and Celilo vineyards. Aromas of Forgeron 2018 Francisca’s Vineyard Viog- lime zest, melon and freshly cut kiwi lead to plen- lemon peel, grape skin and spice lead to vibrant 90 nier (Walla Walla Valley). This wine was tiful, broad-feeling tropical fruit flavors. Pineapple fruit flavors with electric, lemony acidity that com- aged six months in 60% stainless steel and 40% notes linger on the finish. It gets a bit weighed down mands attention and buckles the knees. Drinking it neutral oak. The aromas provide notes of melon, at times but still delivers plenty of enjoyment. is a little like falling in love. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. flower petal, pear, cinnamon and whole nectarine. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $28 Medium-bodied stone fruit flavors follow. It piques abv: 13% Price: $23 the interest, with a lovely sense of acidity for the variety. —S.S. Forgeron 2018 Blacksmith Blanc (Yakima ROSÉS abv: 13.7% Price: $25 88 Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from Crawford Vineyard and was aged in stainless steel. Devison 2018 Boushey Vineyard Rosé (Yakima Saviah 2017 Saviah Estate Vineyard Viognier It’s a blend of 58% Viognier and 42% Roussanne; 91 Valley). This is the inaugural release from 90 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas draw you initially subdued aromas of ripe peach, melon, long-time Washington winemaker Peter Devison. into the glass, with reserved notes of peach nectar, herbs and citrus lead to broad-feeling stone fruit Mostly Mourvèdre at 77% with the rest Grenache, flower and pear. Light on their feet fruit flavors fol- flavors. It brings appeal. —S.S. it’s so pale in color it could be a white wine. There’s low. It brings a compelling sense of minerality and abv: 14.1% Price: $25 a strong mineral sense that enchants. Aromas of balance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. pink grapefruit, whole watermelon, strawberry and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 lemon rind lead to sleek, well-balanced, acid-driven OTHER WHITE WINES flavors. It brings a sense of balance and seriousness. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. WHITE BLENDS Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 Estate abv: 12.5% Price: $24 92 White In the Rocks Vineyard Grenache Blanc Avennia 2017 La Perle (Columbia Valley). (Walla Walla Valley). Astonishing aromas of wet Gramercy 2018 Olsen Vineyard Rosé (Colum- 92 This is a new offering from the winery. A stone are out front, along with notes of lees, almond 90 bia Valley). Cinsault takes the lead at 47% blend of Roussanne (55%) from Sagemoor and skin and lemon. Textured, leesy, mineral-driven fla- on this wine, with the rest 27% Grenache and 26% Marsanne from Boushey (45%), with fascinating vors follow. Drinking this wine is like licking a rock. Syrah, with all of the varieties co-fermented. It’s aromas of wet seashell, pear, marzipan and whiffs It is singular and unique. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. pale salmon in color, and the aromas provide notes of apricot leading to a full-flavored but still sleek, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 of citrus zest, strawberry and flower. Lighter-styled well-balanced palate, bursting with pear, stone fruit notes accented by lees notes and lemony, mouthwa-

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 but still broad-feeling fruit flavors follow, bringing Waterbrook 2018 AVA Series Rosé (Red lemon blossom and sweet lime peel meet with an a lovely sense of freshness. —S.S. 85 Mountain). A medium orange-pink color underlying hint of walnut oil and sour cream on abv: 13% Price: $25 that shows some bricking, with aromas of cherry the nose of this bottling by Greg Brewer. The pal- candy and bubblegum that lead to broad, thick feel- ate’s compelling texture is simultaneously oily and Pursued by Bear 2018 Blushing Bear Rosé ing fruit flavors. It gets quite bogged down. —S.S. chalky, with expertly integrated acidity carrying 90 (Columbia Valley). Mourvèdre makes up abv: 12.4% Price: $NA ­flavors of peach extract and labneh. —M.K. half of this wine, with the rest 30% Grenache and abv: NA Price: $55 20% Cinsault. The aromas intrigue, with notes of Forgeron 2018 Pink Rabbits Rosé (Columbia citrus rind, herbs, star fruit, strawberry and spice. 84 Valley). With a cherry color that is darker Center of Effort 2015 Giallo Solare Chardon- Broad-feeling, well-balanced, mouthwatering fruit than the norm for rosés from the state, this wine 94 nay (Edna Valley). For full review see page 6. flavors follow. The acidity keeps the interest high. has aromas that offer notes of reduction, apple and abv: 14.1% Price: $60 Yum. —S.S. lees. Off-dry-seeming fruit flavors follow. —S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $28 abv: 12.6% Price: $25 Joseph Phelps 2017 Freestone Vineyards 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Upsidedown 2018 Rescue Rosé (Horse For full review see page 7. 90 Heaven Hills). This wine is 100% Nebbiolo SWEET WINE abv: 13.5% Price: $60 from Coyote Canyon Vineyard. The aromas pop, with appealing notes of kiwi, sweet herbs, bubble- Novelty Hill 2017 Late Harvest Stillwater Lester 2017 Lester Family Vineyards Char- gum, sour cherry and watermelon. Rich, just off-dry, 93 Creek Vineyard Semillon (Columbia Valley). 94 donnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a mouthwatering kiwi flavors follow, with a big blast The aromas are like smelling orange marmalade new project run by the owners of the celebrated of acidity tying it all together. —S.S. right after it’s been spread on a piece of toast. Addi- vineyard in the Corralitos area, and it’s a stunning abv: 13.1% Price: $20 tional aromas include apricot, beeswax and orange start. Aromas of Asian pear, lime pith, lime blossom rind. Sweet, rich, intense but still graceful orange and wet clay lead into a zesty and vibrant palate of Frog Kisser 2018 Rosé (Walla Walla Valley). flavors follow with a sense of balance that carries more lime, chalk and guava peels. The freshness is 89 A blend of 44% Syrah, 43% Grenache and through the long finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. phenomenal. —M.K. 13% Cinsault, this rosé is quite pale in color. Aro- abv: 10% Price: $25/375 ml abv: 13.3% Price: $45 mas of strawberry, melon, lees and orange rind lead to sleekly styled apple flavors backed by mouth­ Massican 2018 Hyde Chardonnay (Napa watering acidity. It’s laced with lees accents. There’s CALIFORNIA 94 Valley).­ From the famous site in Carneros, a lot to like, and the price is right. —S.S. the block sourced by the producer consists of Mus- abv: 12.8% Price: $15 CHARDONNAY que clone Chardonnay, planted in the early 1990s and a portion of it also goes into his Annia white Seven Hills 2018 Dry Rosé (Columbia Val- Calera 2017 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). For blend. Opening in a whiff of confection, it offers 89 ley). A very appealing pale salmon color, 96 full review see page 3. steely acidity and a textured taste of lemon rind, this wine has aromas that pop, with notes of cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $50 grapefruit and white peach, layered and balanced in Jolly Rancher, dried herbs, rhubarb and citrus twist. every sense of the word. —V.B. Full-flavored pink grapefruit and strawberry flavors Sanford 2016 La Rinconada Vineyard Estate abv: 12.7% Price: $45 follow. It’s more weighty feeling than recent vin- 96 Grown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full tages but still delights. —S.S. review see page 4. Sanford 2016 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard abv: 12.9% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 94 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 7. Kerloo 2018 Lonesome Springs Ranch Rosé Saintsbury 2017 Sangiacomo Green Acres abv: 13.5% Price: $48 88 (Yakima Valley). This wine is equal parts 95 Chardonnay (Carneros). Floral, earthy and Mourvèdre and Grenache. A pretty light salmon beautifully textured, this vineyard-designated Seabold 2017 Olson Prunetucky Sands Char- color, it offers aromas of stone fruit, wet stone, white is structured and balanced. The components 94 donnay (Monterey). For full review see page strawberry and grapefruit. Sleek, bone-dry fruit are lovingly etched in wet stone, white flower and 7. flavors follow, with a lightly creamy feel. It should lemon verbena, lasting and lengthy with spicy abv: 13.2% Price: $40 shine with food alongside it. —S.S. ­texture and impressive weight. —V.B. abv: 11.2% Price: $24 abv: 13.9% Price: $54 Brewer-Clifton 2017 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita 93 Hills). For full review see page 8. Airfield Estates 2018 Sangiovese Rosé Seabold 2017 Pelio Upper Block Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $36 86 (Yakima Valley). The aromas leap up, with 95 (Monterey). Pristine aromas of honey­suckle, notes of freshly scooped cantaloupe, watermelon white peach, sea salt caramel and sharp citrus make Brewer-Clifton 2017 3D Chardonnay (Sta. and apricot. Somewhat weighty-feeling, off-dry fla- for a delicious entry on the nose of this bottling by 93 Rita Hills). This bottling’s nose is delicate vors follow. It gets bogged down, not having enough Chris Miller. The sip zips with acid and surrounds yet focused with aromas of lemon blossoms, lemon acidity to hide the sugar. —S.S. a chalky texture, delivering flavors ofMeyer ­ lemon, candy, lemon balm and lemon verbena, as well as a abv: 12.9% Price: $16 grapefruit, pan-seared apple and a touch of mango. touch of nectarine. The sip snaps with green-citrus Vividly complex and delicious. —M.K. flavors of grapefruit before warming up toward bri- Maryhill 2018 Proprietor’s Reserve Rosé abv: 13.6% Price: $45 oche with lemon filling, all surrounding lively acid- 85 (Columbia Valley). A blend of 58% Gre- ity and compelling texture. Drink now–2032. Cellar nache, 21% Mourvèdre and 21% Cinsault, it’s a Benovia 2016 La Pommeraie Chardonnay Selection. —M.K. dark electric pink color with some bricking. Aromas 94 (Russian River Valley). For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $65 of bubblegum, cherry, raspberry and watermelon page 5. lead to full-bodied fruit flavors. It gets bogged abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Diatom 2018 Santos Road Chardonnay (Sta. down, seeming to lack intention. A sweet finish caps 93 Rita Hills). For full review see page 8. it off. —S.S. Brewer-Clifton 2017 Machado Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). Aromas of chamomile,

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Diora 2017 La Splendeur du Soleil Chardon- fresh, nuanced acidity that finishes in a lingering Böen 2017 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara-­ 93 nay (Monterey). For full review see page 8. taste of lemon rind. —V.B. 90 Monterey-Sonoma). A smooth rich texture Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $85 and ripe luxurious fruit flavors are framed by but- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 ter and baking spices in this satisfying full-bodied Sanford 2017 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sta. wine. It goes for ripeness and heft, feeling soft in Domaine Della 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma 92 Rita Hills). For full review see page 11. Edi- acidity and long on the finish. —J.G. 93 Coast). Golden stony apple opens this full- tors’ Choice. abv: 14.3% Price: $25 bodied wine, robust in structure and tannin. Youth- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 ful oak gives it a toasty quality that works with the Carson Ridge 2017 Chardonnay (Central expressive, expansive fruit, finishing with a last- Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Demayo Vineyard 90 Coast). There’s an impressive complexity ing succulence and touches of nutmeg and Meyer 91 Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Very buttery to this affordably priced bottling, starting with aro- lemon. —V.B. in aroma and flavor, this full-bodied wine lavishes mas of light lemon glaze, nectarine, Asian pear and abv: 14.5% Price: $65 almond, cream and vanilla nuances on the palate, wet stone on the nose. The palate is taut, bright and supported by a silky and smooth texture leading to fresh with honeysuckle, Meyer lemon pith and wet Folktale 2017 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa a lingering finish. —J.G. chalk flavors.Best Buy. —M.K. 93 Lucia Highlands). This bottling is evidence abv: 14.1% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 of the strides winemaker David Baird has made in recent years to uplift this new brand. This white is Diatom 2018 Katherine’s Chardonnay (Santa Riley’s Rows 2017 Chardonnay (North what classic California Chardonnays should taste 91 Maria Valley). Extremely jubilant aromas of 90 Coast). Nutty and mineral, this is a full- like when made in a balanced way. Aromas of but- Fruit Stripe gum, guava, pineapple and mango make bodied white, with grip and ripeness that isn’t ter, lemon peels, gardenia and chalk lead into toast, for a fresh and lively nose on this bottling. The overoaked. Citrus and apple flavors give it lift and mango, pineapple and peach on the palate that hide palate zips with acidity that cuts through the ripe accentuate underlying acidity. —V.B. behind an earthy, crushed, white-rock structure. peach, pear and pineapple-guava flavors, which are abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Editors’ Choice. —M.K. powerful yet framed in a tense texture. —M.K. abv: NA Price: $68 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Saintsbury 2017 Chardonnay (Carneros). 90 Tropical, nutty and robust in initial oak, Rodney Strong 2016 Blue Wing Vineyard Gainey 2017 Limited Selection Chardonnay this wine settles into a nice balanced place, slightly 93 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). Roasted apple, butterscotch reductive and youthful. Apple and pear compote see page 9. Editors’ Choice. and strong oak aromas show on the nose of this rich give it a fruity flavor nuanced in lushness. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 bottling, which offers a balanced style of classic Cal- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ifornia Chardonnay. The palate is creamy in texture Samsara 2017 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). with flavors of white peach, grilled and more Stringer 2017 John Sebastiano Vineyard 93 Toasted almonds, seared lemon peels and toasty oak. —M.K. 90 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Tangy lime- toasted brioche show on the inviting and nutty abv: 14.1% Price: $38 peel, lemon­grass and lime-leaf aromas make for nose of this bottling, one of the winery’s first white a very sharp entry to this bottling. The palate is wines. There is great tension to the sip, where stony Prima Materia 2017 Estate Bottled Chardon- also very tangy and acid-driven, showing flavors qualities lead into nectarine and citrus-spiked 91 nay (Kelsey Bench). Winemaker Pietro Butt- of grapefruit peel, Meyer lemon pith and lime zest. lemon-verbena tea flavors, with intriguing herbal ita has a sure hand with at least a dozen varietals, —M.K. tones throughout. —M.K. and this Chardonnay is no exception. Livened up abv: 13.9% Price: $35 abv: 13.1% Price: $38 by good, bracing acidity, this beautifully ripe and smooth wine has great balance and plenty of attrac- Alara 2017 Chardonnay (San Benito). Diatom 2018 Bar-M Chardonnay (Santa Bar- tive pear, apple and peach flavors. —J.G. 89 Creamy aromas of crème brûlée meet with 92 bara County). From a vineyard in the Los abv: 14.2% Price: $25 crisp nectarine, citrus and hazelnut on the nose of Alamos Valley, this bottling by Greg Brewer begins this rich bottling. The palate shows a lot of oak influ- with fresh aromas of passion fruit, citron, lime leaf Rodney Strong 2017 Chardonnay (Sonoma ence, with more hazelnut and pecan as well as smoky and wet cement. The palate is tightly wound with 91 County).­ For full review see page 13. Editors’ butter flavors. —M.K. slightly sour tones of guava peel, presenting a very Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 fresh, no-oak style that still has plenty of character. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —M.K. Daou 2017 Chardonnay (Paso Robles). Very abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Samsara 2017 Zotovich Vineyard Chardonnay 89 golden in the glass, this bottling offers aro- 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). Toasty aromas of sourdough mas of ripe apple, white peach and sea salt on the Domaine Della 2017 Ritchie Vineyard Char- with fresh lemon spread meet with white flowers on nose. The palate is fat, with apples, pears, butter- 92 donnay (Russian River Valley). This Ritchie the layered but restrained nose of this single-vine- cream and toasted nuts, plus just enough acid to white shows robust, fleshy structure and earthy, flo- yard expression. There is great tension on the sip, keep it afloat. —M.K. ral and complex components of fresh tropical fruit where lively citrus flavors make the mouth pucker abv: 14.2% Price: $21 and strong tannin. Full bodied and expressive in before warmer toast tones lead into the chalky fin- pineapple, lanolin and mango, it has plenty of back- ish. —M.K. Marimar 2017 Acero Unoaked Don Miguel bone and power. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $38 89 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Given no time in oak, this is a surprisingly creamy Blair 2016 The Matriarch Delfina’s Vineyard and lush wine, generous in body weight and lush Joseph Phelps 2017 Pastorale Vineyard 90 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Lemon peel, ripe tropical fruit. Rich and spicy, it finishes in peach 92 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Estate-grown, nectarine, peach and pear flesh show on the nose and Meyer lemon. —V.B. ­Pastorale is brimming in apple, white flower and of this bottling from cattle rancher-turned-vintner abv: 13.5% Price: $32 toasted oak, with a tease of richness in the form of ­Jeffrey Blair. There is a taut texture to the pal- crème brûlée. Stony mineral persists beneath the ate, where sea salt, lemon and smoke qualities are Thomas Allen 2017 Chardonnay (Lodi). A surface, boosting a strong, complex structure of mouthwatering. —M.K. 89 hint of pink shows in the straw color of this abv: 14% Price: $40 bold and dry wine. It offers oaky toasted nut aro-

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 mas, a broad palate of Bosc pear, walnut and dried starting with fresh and vibrantly tropical aromas of nice blend of ripe pear and apple aromas, with but- fig flavors on a full body and weighty texture. While guava and pineapple chunks. It tightens up a tad on tery baking-spice flavors. A rich texture and sub- on the reserved­ side now, this should be best after the sip, where lemon-skin flavors take hold. It’s great dued acidity make it soft on the palate.Best Buy. 2022. —J.G. for the beach or lake. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.3% Price: $6/375 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $8

BOLD 2017 Chardonnay (Monterey). Aromas Sarah’s Vineyard 2017 Chardonnay (Santa Castle Rock 2018 Chardonnay (Central 88 of oak, vanilla, lemon jam on brioche and 88 Clara Valley). There’s a mix of freshness and 86 Coast). For full review see page 17. Best Buy. roasted apples show on the nose of this appellation savory qualities on the nose of this bottling, with abv: 13.8% Price: $10 blend. The palate offers flavors of Golden Russet aromas of lemon balm as well as hazelnuts. The pal- apple, sandalwood and a hint of citrus. —M.K. ate’s toasted almond qualities meet with creamier Cupcake 2017 Chardonnay (Monterey abv: 13.7% Price: $25 peach-custard flavors, all lifted by a citrusy tang. 86 County).­ The nose on this popular bottling —M.K. is a bit muted, with hints of yellow apples, green- Crū 2017 Unoaked Chardonnay (Arroyo abv: 14.2% Price: $24 apple skins and chilled steel. The palate starts with 88 Seco). Ripe pear and chalk aromas meet tighter apple flavors before opening toward very with playful scents of bubblegum on the nose of Sebastiani 2017 Chardonnay (North Coast). ripe pineapple and pear flesh that grow somewhat this ­unoaked Chardonnay. The sip zips with acidity 88 Buttery croissant aromas and indulgent sweet into the finish. —M.K. before the ripe flavors of pineapple, pear and Pink ­vanilla and butter-laden flavors make this wine abv: 14% Price: $13 Lady apple take over. —M.K. ­virtually rich enough for dessert. It shows plenty abv: 13.8% Price: $NA of oak baking spices, a fat texture and lingering Fallbrook 2016 Chardonnay (California). ­buttery finish. —J.G. 86 Sweet-leaning aromas of apple, pear, orange Delta 2017 Chardonnay (California). Light, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 skin and concentrated honeysuckle show on the 88 nuanced and floral, this value-driven wine is nose of this bottling. The palate offers light apple also made to benefit environmental causes. Sourced Vintage Cowboy 2017 Chardonnay (Paso and green-pear-skin flavors. —M.K. from cool-climate sites, winemaker ­Matthew Iaconis­ 88 Robles). Lime zest, cream and white flowers abv: 14.3% Price: $16 of Brick & Mortar gives it low oak and moderate show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is very acidity, letting it become creamy in crème brûlée and crisp with aggressive citrus tones, from grapefruit One Hope 2017 Vintner Collection Chardon- bright in orange and lime. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. skins to lime juice, and the tension is noticeable. 86 nay (California). This is a lively light-bodied abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.K. wine with very fresh and straightforward fruit fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors, and a texture that balances crisp acidity with Fallbrook 2017 Special Selection Chardonnay a touch of perceived sweetness. —J.G. 88 (Monterey). Toasty aromas of oak, butter Wente 2017 Riva Ranch Chardonnay (Arroyo abv: 13.5% Price: $19 and lemon spritz make for a familiar nose on this 88 Seco). Fresh pear, nectarine, smoke and bottling of Central Coast fruit by a South Coast apple aromas show on the nose of this bottling. The Slow Press 2017 Chardonnay (Monterey winery. It’s fairly rich and oak-driven on the pal- palate is very ripe with pear and apple-butter fla- 86 County). Strong buttercream, apple custard ate, with marzipan and nutty flavors cut by lime zest vors, which are cut by lemon spray and then finish and oak smoke aromas show on the nose of this bot- and lively acid. —M.K. toward marzipan and chalk. —M.K. tling. The smoky oak tones carry into the sip, where abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 pear and green-apple-skin flavors are slightly bitter and a honey-butter character goes into the finish. Fossil Point 2017 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Cobble Creek 2017 Chardonnay (Paso Robles).­ —M.K. 88 Fruity aromas of papaya, mango and pine- 87 Light plumeria and jasmine aromas meet abv: 14% Price: $17 apple kick off the nose on this affordable bottling by with candied lime peel and brioche on the nose of the Center of Effort team. The tropical tones show this wine, which is billed on the label as gluten-free Hook or Crook 2017 Chardonnay (Lodi). This on the palate as well, where flavors ofStarburst ­ and vegan-friendly. The palate starts with a snappy 85 medium-bodied wine shows an unusual candy dominate, yet there is a tension to hold taut texture and delivers flavors of candied lime, pink tinge in the color, aromas that are lightly flo- ­everything in check. —M.K. grapefruit and honeysuckle. —M.K. ral, and flavors that blend fruit salad with heavier abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.9% Price: $18 ­butter and toasted oak nuances. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Hahn 2017 Estate Chardonnay (Arroyo La Crema 2017 Chardonnay (Monterey). 88 Seco). Light and mellow aromas of lemon 87 Strong aromas of vanilla and caramel meet blossom and yellow pear show on the nose of this with buttercream and lemon on the nose of this SAUVIGNON BLANC bottling from the Hahn family, which features a new very classic style of California chardonnay. There label. The palate is tense and full of citrus flavors, is a lemony tension and freshness to the sip, where Massican 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa from lime peel to lemon peel, leading into a slightly the oak flavors grow strong and nearly sweet in the 95 Valley).­ For his own label, Larkmead wine- sour finish. —M.K. finish. —M.K. maker Dan Petroski looks to northern Italy for abv: 14.3% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 inspiration, sourcing from Napa Valley vineyards he admires (ones with the warmest days and cool- Moniker 2017 La Ribera Chardonnay (Men- Paris Valley Road 2018 Chardonnay (Cali­ est nights) to produce this 100% varietal beauty. 88 docino). An aroma of bread dough and 87 fornia). Flinty aromas of struck match meet Robustly fruity and flinty, it shows apricot, lemon- subtle floral flavors backed by mineral and peach with light lemon peel, pith and blossom on the grass, wet stone and wraparound acidity that buzzes make this a pleasant and rather subtle wine. Little nose of this bottling. The lemon-juice-laced palate in freshness. —V.B. obvious oakiness comes through and it feels soft in is tangy, fresh and very sharp with nearly singeing abv: 13.5% Price: $30 texture. —J.G. acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $18 Moraga 2017 Bel Air Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- 94 fornia). For full review see page 7. Porch Pounder 2018 Chardonnay (Central Thomas Allen 2017 Selections Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $115 88 Coast). This is a very compelling can of wine, 87 (Lodi). This medium-boded wine shows a

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Stolo 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (San Luis Obispo­ Tamber Bey 2018 Lizzy’s Vineyard Sauvignon crisp and lightly fruity flavors that hit the target. 93 County). Soft and subtle tones of green ­apple 91 Blanc (Oakville). Fresh and clear in focused —J.G. and passion fruit are enhanced by a hint of jalapeño acidity, this vineyard-designated white is a bouquet abv: 13.5% Price: $16 spice on the nose of this bottling. There is a fasci- of lovely fruit and flowers, from peach and squeezed nating stony quality to the sip, where wet cement Meyer lemon to jasmine. Stony texture adds a min- Castoro Cellars 2018 Sauvignon Blanc flavors combine with passion fruit and lime-laced eral component that’s irresistible in appeal. —V.B. 88 (Paso Robles). Fresh and accessible aro- tonic water. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $32 mas of passion fruit, ripe melon, sweetgrass and abv: 13.4% Price: $27 wet cement make for a very complete nose on this B.R. Cohn 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma bottling. The palate is classically crisp, with flavors Sutro 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 90 County). For full review see page 16. Best of gooseberry, lime peels and cut grass, as well as a 93 County). A small-production white out of Buy. slightly metallic minerality. —M.K. Alexander Valley, this was tank-fermented and abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $16 made to capture lovely aromatics of jasmine and stone. Peach and melon flavors accent a juicy core Black Stallion 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Comartin 2018 Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon of succulence on the midpalate, which is creamy in 90 Valley). For full review see page 13. 88 Blanc (Arroyo Seco). Aromas of cut grass, texture. It lingers in mineral. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 kelp and lemon rinds show on the nose of this bot- abv: 14.1% Price: $28 tling. The palate is loaded with sour citrus flavors, Delta 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (California). and slightly more complex hints of oregano and nori Daou 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). 90 With the goal of making wines for environ- wrap. —M.K. 92 For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice. mental change, owners Matthew and Alexis Iaconis abv: 13.6% Price: $27 abv: 13.7% Price: $17 donate $1 of every bottle of Delta sold to environ- mental groups that reduce carbon emissions and Folktale 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Round Pond 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc protect the ocean. This white is crisp and fresh—a 88 Seco). Ripe pear and lemon-skin flavors 92 (Rutherford). For full review see page 11. delicious quaff of fig, peach and lemon rind, with a show on the simple nose of this bottling. Clean abv: 14% Price: $28 compelling, stony mineral­ edge, fermented entirely flavors of crisp apple and pear flesh meet with wet in stainless steel. Best Buy. —V.B. stone on the palate, which is pleasant and familiar. Bold 2018 Zabala Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo abv: 12.5% Price: $15 —M.K. 91 Seco). Strong grassy aromas meet with a abv: 13.4% Price: $25 softer hint of white flowers on the nose of this Gainey 2018 Limited Selection Sauvignon single-vineyard expression. The palate’s strong grip 90 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Crisp aromas of Jax 2018 Y3 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). delivers Sancerre-like flavors of crisp lime, lime leaf honeysuckle, lemon, peach and fresh lime are clean 88 Opening in jalapeño, dried herb and grass, and more cut grass. —M.K. and inviting on the nose of this bottling. The sip this light-bodied white comes together in the glass abv: 13.2% Price: $25 combines a tense texture with ripe peach flavors to refresh­ in crisp acidity and lasting steely texture. that are held back by lemongrass and sour lime-skin It was fermented in both concrete and neutral oak. Dogwood & Thistle 2018 Mariah Vineyard Sau- touches. —M.K. —V.B. 91 vignon Blanc (Mendocino Ridge). Vivid grassy abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 13.1% Price: $18 minerally aromas and nicely concentrated flavors give this medium-bodied wine a lot of depth and Kokomo 2018 Timber Crest Vineyard Sauvi- Paul Dolan 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Potter it shows a great, tangy balance to go with it. Crisp 90 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Grassy fresh 88 Valley).­ Flinty figgy aromas and reserved apple, dried thyme and lemon zest wake up the pal- and bubbling in acidity, this light-bodied, lightly fig and apple flavors give this full-bodied wine an ate, backed by nervy acidity. —J.G. ripe white is dazzling in lime and grapefruit, with ­appealing, rich quality. The wine’s initial subtlety is abv: 14.2% Price: $22 a tease of peach skin. It’s an enjoyable varietal wine a good thing as it develops slowly in the glass. —J.G. that shows restraint and grace. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2018 Piocho Sauvi- abv: 13.2% Price: $24 91 gnon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Rombauer 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Crisp aromas of lime skin and chilled green-apple Rodney Strong 2018 Charlotte’s Home Sau- 88 Valley).­ Creamy and lush, this is a rich, flesh are quite sharp on the nose of this bottling, 90 vignon Blanc (Sonoma County). For full satis­fying white for fans of a more voluptuous style. which includes 10% Sémillon. There is great snap review see page 14. Flavors lean on peach cobbler, vanilla and brioche. to the sip, where fresh acidity and a compelling abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —V.B. texture deliver flavors of apple peel, lime juice and abv: 14.2% Price: $25 white pepper. —M.K. Guenoc 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (California). abv: 12.7% Price: $25 89 For full review see page 16. Best Buy. AVA Grace Vineyards 2017 Citrus Floral abv: 13.5% Price: $10 87 ­Refined Sauvignon Blanc (California). This Kori 2018 Griva Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc flavorful wine exudes bright peach aromas, and 91 (­Arroyo Seco). Dried hay, bags of lawn clip- LangeTwins 2018 Woods 01 Vineyard Sau- turns riper and softer on the palate, where peach pings, green mango, white pepper and green bell 89 vignon Blanc (Jahant). This is a traditional and apricot flavors and low acidity make it soothing pepper show on the very complex nose of this bot- style of Sauvignon made from the Musque clone and and mouthfilling.Best Buy. —J.G. tling. The bell pepper flavors are prominent on the emphasizing unabashed grassy, herbaceous aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $12 sip, where pasilla chile elements meet with warm and crisp citrus-like flavors on a nicely acidic tex- peaches. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ture. It tastes refreshing and food friendly. —J.G. Nola Grace 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (­California). abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $20 87 Very fruity and rather rich in texture, this wine is one of the riper, softer versions of the vari- LangeTwins 2018 Estate Grown Musqué Clone Benziger 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (North etal. It shows appealing apple, vanilla and honeydew 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). For full review see 88 Coast). Light to medium bodied, this wine melon flavors. —J.G. page 16. Best Buy. offers delicate fruit and herb aromas, followed by abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Pedroncelli 2018 East Side Vineyards Sau- cous. Apple, honey and fig define its delicate nature. The palate is also reserved, just allowing enough of 86 vignon Blanc (Sonoma County). Bubbly in —V.B. the guava and tuberose flavors to emerge. —M.K. acidity, this white sees no time in oak remaining abv: 13.2% Price: $30 abv: 15.1% Price: $40 crisp, clean and dry in the glass. Flavors of peach and vanilla provide a richness that contrasts well Matthes Vineyards 2015 Estate Grown against the steely frame. —V.B. 85 Grenache Blanc (Sonoma Valley). This is PINOT GRIGIO/GRIS abv: 13.5% Price: $17 blended with 32% Marsanne and given seven months in neutral oak. It doesn’t show its age well, Di Bruno 2018 Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara Vincent 2017 Family Reserve Sauvignon the acidity tart, marring the waxy apple, stone and 92 County). Very pale in the glass, this is a 86 Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). There’s a slightly white flower. —V.B. sprightly, zesty spin on the often tepid grape, offer- sour and tangy note on the nose of this wine, which abv: 14.1% Price: $22 ing loads of lily, lemon-lime soda and peach aromas offers aromas of lemon oil, cooked green apples and on the nose. The sip is very zippy with acidity and a slight nuttiness. There’s a hint of wood on the pal- near effervescence, showing peach and fresh lime- ate, where dried lemon-peel flavors are tangy yet ROUSSANNE juice flavors. —M.K. the overall impression is rich. —M.K. abv: 12.4% Price: $28 abv: 14.7% Price: $20 Orfila 2016 Estate Roussanne (San Pasqual 92 Valley). For full review see page 11. Cellar Blair 2016 Pinot Gris (Arroyo Seco). The nose Selection. 91 on this white wine is quite complex, showing GRENACHE BLANC abv: 13.6% Price: $32 lime peel, peach flesh, nectarine jam on toast, gar- denia and even chalky minerality. The palate pro- Seabold 2018 Mission Ranch ­Grenache Blanc Tablas Creek 2016 Roussanne (Adelaida Dis- vides toasty flavors against tangy citrus peels, with 92 (Arroyo Seco). There’s a fascinating twist to 91 trict). Light honey, Asian pear flesh and fresh hints of hazelnut and preserved lemon. —M.K. the finish of this wine, in which a pecan and hazel- citrus blossoms make for a very inviting nose on abv: 14% Price: $26 nut flavor arises. The nose starts with crisp and this bottling from the winery that introduced mod- mellow aromas of green apple and nectarine, while ern Roussanne to California. The palate balances Flying Goat Cellars 2017 Sierra Madre Vineyard the palate shows strong citrus before the nutty subtle citrus and warm apple tones with the lightest 91 Pinot Gris (Santa Maria Valley). Quite yellow quality emerges. No wonder -turned- brush of butterscotch toward the finish. Drink now in the glass, this rare Pinot Gris from this historic winemaker Chris Miller calls it trouvaille, or “lucky through 2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. vineyard offers mellow aromas of yellow pear, daf- find.”Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $40 fodil and honey on corn tortilla. There is a pear-rind abv: 13.9% Price: $40 grip to the tense palate, which leads into a waxy fin- Sosie 2016 Vivio Vineyard Roussanne (Ben- ish, with hints of roasted nuts. This is a very unique Le Mistral 2018 Single Vineyard Grenache 90 nett Valley). For full review see page 15. and interesting white wine. —M.K. 90 Blanc (Monterey County). Very light and abv: 13.5% Price: $38 abv: 13.9% Price: $24 crisp on the nose, this bottling offers very stony aro- mas of chalk and nectarine. It’s also bright on the Stephen Ross 2017 Spanish Springs Vine- palate with flavors of Key lime, Gravenstein apple VIOGNIER 90 yard Pinot Gris (San Luis Obispo County). and a touch of bubblegum. —M.K. Intriguing aromas of dried lemon peels, wet wool, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Chappellet 2017 Cold Creek Vineyard Viognier crushed rocks and lime pith show on the dynamic 90 (Carneros). This wine opens with a sweet nose of this bottling from a very coastal vineyard Matthes Vineyards 2016 Estate Grown nose of candied fruit and flowers, the texture vel- behind Pismo Beach. There is compelling grip to the 90 ­Grenache Blanc (Sonoma Valley). This vety and robust in viscous intensity. A taste of apple sip with flavors of citrus, apple blossom and a pinch grower-producer offers this lightly styled white that skin and lemon lingers for awhile on the palate, with of salt. —M.K. is juicy in fresh peach and apricot, the texture lovely a lasting note of wet stone. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $25 and layered, with a balanced bite of ripeness and abv: 15.2% Price: $35 acidity. —V.B. Ferrari-Carano 2018 Pinot Grigio (Russian abv: 13.6% Price: $32 Krupp Brothers 2018 Stagecoach Vineyard 88 River Valley). Fragrantly fruity in peach, 90 Viognier (Napa Valley). This is a hearty, apricot and a sweetness of vanilla, this is a cheery, Vintage Cowboy 2017 Grenache Blanc (Edna ­expressive 100% varietal wine, floral in ­honeysuckle approachable and richly styled white, which 90 Valley). Sour apple and sour pear aromas and gardenia, with a lovely entry of succulent citrus. ­refreshes within a full-bodied middle. —V.B. meet with a touch of lime peels and lanolin on the Complex and elegant, it dazzles in minerality—a mix abv: 13.7% Price: $16 nose of this bottling. It explodes on the palate, with of stone and earth that works on every level. —V.B. bright acidity, lemon, lime and Asian pear flavors, abv: 13.7% Price: $50 framed by a chalky backbone. —M.K. PINOT BLANC abv: 14.1% Price: $NA McKahn 2018 Viognier (Russian River ­Valley). 90 Given six months in neutral barrel, this is Seabold 2018 Rodnick Farm Old Vines Pinot Kaena 2017 Tierra Alta Vineyard Grenache an effervescent, lively white, with tension and focus 93 Blanc (Chalone). It’s always a joy to taste 88 Blanc (Ballard Canyon). Tropical aromas of on the palate. Sweet peach, apple and mineral-like the old vines of Chalone, and this bottling captures tuberose, ripe papaya, mango and wet stone show stone add to inviting aromas of white flower as the their unique qualities, starting with aromas of on the nose of this bottling. There is a stony grip to wine finishes dry and with power. —V.B. apple syrup, hazelnut and toasted pecan. The palate the sip, where ripe flavors of peach and guava show abv: 14.1% Price: $34 offers almond, Meyer lemon and a creamy oak flavor strongly. —M.K. that lingers on the tongue for a long time—all very abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Pulchella 2018 Drifter Viognier (Paso Robles unique elements. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 88 Willow Creek District). Restrained aromas of abv: 13.1% Price: $45 Crux 2017 Grenache Blanc (Russian River ripe pear flesh, apple blossom and guava show on 86 Valley). This white is light in style, blended the nose of this bottling from Terra Mia Vineyard. Gloria Ferrer 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Blanc with 15% Viognier, which is creamier and more vis- 90 (Carneros). This wine opens in racy high- toned acidity and evolves to show a creamier lusher

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BUYINGGUIDE texture and style. Peach, lime and green-apple fla- Oak Farm 2018 Albariño (Lodi). Apple skin Brick & Mortar 2018 Vin Clair (Napa Valley). vors develop around a moderate structure that 89 and apricot flavors light up this nicely 90 A light refreshing white wine, this is made ­refreshes and finishes dry. —V.B. crisp and medium-bodied unoaked wine that was by picking 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay abv: 13% Price: $25 matured in stainless-steel tanks. It’s ripe enough to on the same day and then and coferment- be easily appealing and it’s well-balanced by fresh- ing them together. Structured and lightweight, it Deovlet 2017 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot tasting acidity. —J.G. dazzles in tart high-toned acidity, adorned in flavors 88 Blanc (Sta. Rita Hills). Dried pear peels, abv: 13% Price: $20 of fresh lemon, apple and melon with a flinty stony freshly cut pomelo and very pithy citrus aromas show finish. —V.B. on the nose of this bottling. The palate offers dried Bushong 2018 Spanish Castle Queen abv: 11.5% Price: $28 orange peel, light apple flesh, a steelyminerality ­ and 88 ­Albariño (Edna Valley). Fresh aromas of zippy acidity. —M.K. apples, pear and chalk meet with sour and sweet Calcareous 2017 Lily Blanc (Paso Robles). abv: 13.2% Price: $32 lime scents on the nose of this bottling. The palate 89 Very mellow on the nose at first, this blend starts with a Key lime bubblegum flavor and grows of 51% Viognier, 27% Grenache Blanc and 22% more toward peach on the finish, making for a fruit- Roussanne shows lemon cream, custard, toasted RIESLING ful yet zesty experience. —M.K. nuts and a slight smoke on the nose. The palate’s abv: 14.2% Price: $27 flavors are broad and welcoming, with white peach, Waxwing 2018 Tondre Grapefield Riesling sea salt and then a tinge of lemon rind that makes 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Orange- and lime- Folktale 2018 Albariño (Arroyo Seco). Lime for a slightly sour finish. —M.K. sorbet aromas dominate the nose of this single- 88 peels, sour kumquat and a nearly petrol abv: 13.7% Price: $36 vineyard expression—one of the few in aroma show on the nose of this bottling from the the appellation. There is tremendous verve to the flatter parts of the Salinas Valley. Granny Smith sip, with fresh and lively flavors of tangy citrus, ripe apple flavors are sour but flavorful on the palate, OTHER WHITE WINES ­orange and a chalky grip on the finish. —M.K. lifted by lemon-blossom and wet stone touches. abv: 12.9% Price: $25 —M.K. Prima Materia 2017 Tocai Friulano (Potter abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 Valley). Hints of rosemary and thyme meet Morgan 2018 Double L Vineyard Riesling tempting, ripe melon and pear flavors in this aro- 89 (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s a slight matic, full-bodied and richly textured wine from fizz in the glass at first on this fresh bottling, which WHITE BLENDS winemaker and former chef Pietro Buttita. It’s an shows chalky, slight petrol aromas on the nose along unusual—but at the same time very appealing—­ with Meyer lemon pith and fresh apple sauce. It’s Massican 2018 Annia (Napa Valley). For full flavor profile.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. very lively on the palate with Key lime pie, ripe red 97 review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 pear flesh and a slight chive-like spice. —M.K. abv: 12.4% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $22 Peltier 2018 Estate Grown Vermentino (Lodi). Massican 2018 Gemina (California). ­Gemina 91 Zesty aromas and crisp tangy citrus flavors Wente 2017 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo 96 is 69% Pinot Grigio and 31% Greco, from give this light-bodied well-balanced wine a laser 88 Seco). Key lime, wet stone and a steely two vineyards, one in St. Helena and the other ­focus. It has a vivid, almost electric acidity that gen- minerality show on the crisp nose of this bottling. in Santa Rosa. With the goal of showcasing both tly scours the palate and brings great freshness on Rounded flavors of lemon and orange balm meet northern and southern Italian inspiration, it deals the finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. with orange blossom and jasmine on the palate, in fresh lemon peel, white flower and gravelly tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 which shows the slightest hint of sweet. —M.K. ture, while being well structured and enduringly abv: 13% Price: $18 fresh. This is a truly lovely, revelatory wine. —V.B. Stolo 2018 Gewürztraminer (San Luis Obispo abv: 12.4% Price: $30 91 County). Very light in the glass, this is an extremely aromatic wine featuring apple blossoms, ALBARIÑO Bushong 2018 Cold Roses (Central Coast). For Asian pear, honeydew and ripe white fruits all 91 full review see page 12. strong on the nose. The palate zings with acidity, Croma Vera 2018 Albariño (San Luis Obispo abv: 13.3% Price: $25 offering rounded flavors of ripe pear and freshly cut 92 County). For full review see page 10. apple. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $27 Inglenook 2016 Blancaneaux (Rutherford). abv: 13.5% Price: $25 91 The producer’s perennial Rhône-style white Stephen Ross 2017 Spanish Springs Vineyard blend from its estate, this blends 36% Viognier Delta 2018 (California). S o ft 90 Albariño (San Luis Obispo County). Meyer with 32% Roussanne and 32% Marsanne. Together, 90 and supple in peach and lemon, this lovely lemon and cantaloupe converge on the dynamic­ they harmonize into a cohesive whole of intense flo- white is fleshy in texture with plenty of underlying nose of this bottling along with white flowers, yel- ral aromatics and brightly textured fruit. Gardenia, acidity to keep it fresh in the glass. It saw time in low pears and chalk. That white-rock minerality cinnamon and apple all standout on the nose and on stainless steel and neutral oak, and persists in aro- consumes the grippy palate, where Asian pear, light the silky, slightly reduced palate. —V.B. mas of jasmine. Best Buy. —V.B. guava and jasmine flavors emerge. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.4% Price: $25 Brick & Mortar 2018 Blanc (California). This Kings Carey 2018 Sémillon (Happy Canyon Morgan 2018 Albariño (Monterey). Broad 90 is a steely, floral canned blend of Chenin 89 of Santa Barbara). A rare single-varietal 89 pear-flesh aromas are cut by lime pith and Blanc and Chardonnay, the grapes from both Clarks- display of Sémillon, this bottling from the Vogelzang a muddy clay minerality on the nose of this fresh burg and the Napa Valley. It refreshes and shows Vineyard offers aromas of pear rinds, lime peels, bottling. The sip hits with a strong citrus tang that ­varietal complexity within a refreshingly bright, roasted apples and a hint of funky yeast. The yellow- blossoms into Pink Lady apple flesh and cherimoya well-put-together package of green apple and grape- apple flavors extend to the palate, where there is also flavors. —M.K. fruit. —V.B. a hint of petrol and a cider-like acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $8/375 ml abv: 12% Price: $25

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 LangeTwins 2018 Estate Grown Moscato Adroît 2017 Volage Petillant-Naturel Rosé Brick & Mortar 2018 Bubbles Rosé (Cali­ 88 (Clarksburg). Fragrant with roses and gar- 92 (Monterey County). Cloudy and a creamy 90 fornia). The winery sources whole cluster- denias, this sweet and deliciously fruity wine is low pink color in the glass, this pét-nat shows straw- pressed Syrah from Clarksburg and Sonoma Coast in alcohol, soft in texture and sugary on the finish. berry bubblegum and red-berry sorbet on the nose. to make this lively, enjoyable can of sparkling, It’s something nice to drink with cheese, biscotti or The palate is loaded with full flavors of Ruby Red which has good acidity and tension. Effervescent, a fruity dessert. —J.G. grapefruit and guava, making for a very refreshing it offers textured, fresh flavors of strawberry patch, abv: 11.5% Price: $15 and fun-loving sparkler. —M.K. watermelon and lime. —V.B. abv: 11.8% Price: $30 abv: 11.5% Price: $8/375 ml Lion Ranch 2017 Marsanne (Santa Clara 88 Valley).­ Sandalwood, dried lemon peel, Fesstivity 2016 Brut Rosé Méthode Cham- Gloria Ferrer 2015 Late Disgorged Reserve dried apple and a hint of sandstone-like minerality 92 penoise (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see 90 Cuvée Demi Sec (Carneros). Half-dry in show on the nose of this bottling, which includes page 10. style, and having spent 20 months in oak, this is 13% Roussanne. There is a good sizzle to the sip abv: 12.5% Price: $49 a hearty, richly lush wine that is softly layered in where flavors of dried lemon and apple meet with bright flavors of Key lime and blood orange. It makes toasted wood. —M.K. Gloria Ferrer 2008 Carneros Cuvée Late the ideal pairing with spicy food or a salty box of abv: 13% Price: $26 92 Disgorged Brut (Carneros). Disgorged in popcorn. —V.B. ­November 2018, this shows the beauty of time in abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Oak Farm 2018 Estate Grown Fiano (Lodi). the bottle—a well-developed core of flavor and tex- 88 This full-bodied wine, made from a grape ture that’s evolved and complex. Supple richness Goat Bubbles 2015 Blanc de Blancs Sierra variety long grown in southern Italy, smells and and softness last and linger on the palate, with pro- 90 Madre Vineyard Sparkling (Santa Maria tastes fruity and floral. It’s fresh, clean and easy- nounced elements of apple, peach, cherry and wet Valley).­ Very yeasty on the nose, this bottling offers going, with light acidity and a soft texture. —J.G. stone. —V.B. aromas of corn bread, Meyer lemon pith and a damp abv: 14.2% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $80 dough ball. Lemon peels and crab-apple flavors arise on the texturally compelling palate, where Ballentine 2018 Betty’s Vineyard Chenin Kessler-Haak 2016 Brut (Sta. Rita Hills). A sourdough elements also linger. —M.K. 87 Blanc (St. Helena). Entirely varietal from 92 lighter shade of pink in the glass, this is a abv: 12.9% Price: $44 estate-grown fruit, Betty’s shows fig, peach and lovely sparkling wine with aromas of grapefruit, apple flavors wrapped around a stony texture of light plum and toasty yeast, making for a mellow but Iron Horse 2014 Russian Cuvée (Green Valley).­ midweight ripeness and style. Floral, it’s youthfully intriguing nose. The palate’s pink-lemonade and 90 Rich and thick in mousse, this sparkling vibrant. —V.B. lemongrass flavors ride a soft mousse, providing a wine is made in creamy, lush style and it succeeds abv: 13.6% Price: $30 very pleasant and easygoing experience. —M.K. in delivering plenty of soft supple layers of flavor. abv: 12.3% Price: $65 Peach and cherry cordial come to mind around Blue Fox Cellars 2015 Nube Bianco Vineyard flecks of brioche and crème brûlée. It finishes dry. 87 Arneis (Potter Valley). This medium-bodied Fesstivity 2016 Blanc de Noirs (Sta. Rita —V.B. wine smells lightly earthy and meaty, and tastes 91 Hills). Sour orange aromas team up with abv: 13.5% Price: $45 chalky, tight and mineral driven. It’s refreshing and warm and yeasty scents of egg bread on the nose of austere in an interesting way. —J.G. this delightful sparkler. The mousse on the palate Fesstivity 2016 Brut Cuvée (Sta. Rita Hills). abv: 13.6% Price: $25 is quite lush in texture, and carries flavors of tart 89 This bottling, which is two-thirds Pinot Noir green apple and the slightest show of toasty oak. and one-third Chardonnay, shows very toasty aromas SIP 2017 Moscato (California). Sweet in fla- —M.K. on the nose, with a zesty kick of preserved lemon. 87 vor and almost syrupy in texture, this wine abv: 12.5% Price: $49 The mousse is fairly mellow on the sip, where tangy offers attractive pistachio aromas followed by flavors lemon and yellow-apple flavors dominate. —M.K. of poached pears and lychee fruit. Medium body and Gloria Ferrer 2016 Late Disgorged Brut Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $45 a viscous texture leave a lingering floral finish. —J.G. 91 (Carneros). Lasting and expansive in rich, abv: 11% Price: $15 high-toned waves of strawberry and cherry, this is Sofia 2018 Brut Rosé (Monterey County). a delightful sparkling wine, structured and offering 89 A pale shade of pink, this sparkling rosé is plenty of mineral-tinged acidity. A note of cranberry vivacious on the nose with aromas of strawberry, SPARKLING WINES piques on the finish. —V.B. water­melon, bubblegum and Ruby Red grapefruit. abv: 12.5% Price: $50 The palate is also very accessible, with grapefruit Schramsberg 2010 J. Schram (North Coast). rind flavors riding the soft mousse. —M.K. 97 For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. Goat Bubbles 2016 Solomon Hills Vineyard abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 12.4% Price: $120 91 Rosé Sparkling (Santa Maria Valley). A yel- lower shade of pink in the glass, this bottling by Uptick Vineyards NV Brut (North Coast). Iron Horse 2014 Brut X Estate Bottled Spar- regional bubbly pioneer Norm Yost begins with a 88 This wine is nicely dry, has some good, 95 kling Wine (Green Valley). For full review see yeasty nose of wet dough along with citrusy hints of earthy complexity in flavors and a sense that it has page 5. grapefruit peel. The palate enlivens the mouth with aged long enough. There’s a tinge of pink in the abv: 13.5% Price: $54 flavors of sour lemon and more yeast. —M.K. straw color. A scent of ginger cookies and flavors full abv: 12.8% Price: $44 of apple cider and baking spices give it something Iron Horse 2014 Classic Vintage Brut Estate to savor. —J.G. 94 Bottled Sparkling Wine (Green Valley). For Kokomo 2015 Peters Vineyard Méthode Cham- abv: 12.5% Price: $32 full review see page 6. 91 penoise Blanc de Blanc Sparkling (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Coast). Well crafted in a classic sparkling style, this Ca’ Momi NV Heartcraft (California). Fresh wine offers tight, focused acidity and sublime tex- 87 apple-juice aromas and lively apple and cit- Schramsberg 2016 Brut Rosé Méthode Tradi- ture, a deft commingling of peach and apple flavor. rus flavors highlight this rather soft-textured and 93 tionnelle (North Coast). For full review see The mineral aspect takes form in a bite of wet stone mouthfilling wine. An off-dry balance and pillowy page 9. and sea spray. —V.B. bubbles make it gentle on the palate. —J.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $47 abv: 12.8% Price: $58 abv: 11.5% Price: $15

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BUYINGGUIDE

Ca’ Momi NV Heartcraft Sparkling Rosé (Cali- Stringer 2018 Babbling Brook Rosé of Pinot Gloria Ferrer 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carne- 86 fornia). This soft, plush and soothing wine 91 Noir (Santa Barbara County). Clean aromas of 84 ros). Herbal and grassy, this has a touch of shows a bright salmon color, light red-cherry and watermelon and baseball card bubblegum show on matchstick that persists and detracts, with a metal- raspberry aromas and fresh fruity flavors. It has a the nose of this bottling. The palate is fresh, lively lic edge to the finish. —V.B. touch of sweetness and the body is light. —J.G. and crisp, with more watermelon as well as lime- abv: 12% Price: $29 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 juice and rind flavors, giving a touch of complexity to the refreshing sip. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 ROSÉS OF GRENACHE ROSÉS OF PINOT NOIR Effort 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Curran 2018 Grenache Gris Rosé (Santa Bar- Inman Family 2018 Endless Crush Pratt Sex- 90 One of the most pale pinks of the year, this 92 bara County). Always one of the best rosés 94 ton Road Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). rosé shows plump nectarine, pluot, lime and rose- of the year (although really a separate grape that Made from a site atop the Sebastopol Hills area near bud aromas on the floral nose. There is a taut tex- the government doesn’t yet recognize), Kris Cur- Freestone, known for its cooler climate, this is a ture to the palate, which is clean, crisp and citrus- ran’s latest vintage is a Goldilocks shade of pink quenchingly tart and textured wine, with structure driven, with lime and hints of pink fruit. —M.K. and shows aromas of bubblegum, peach and crys- and complexity. Fresh in lime, lemon and an endless abv: 13.1% Price: $24 tallized watermelon. These epic aromas of summer taste of wild strawberry, it’s a sublime expression of lead into a palate that’s taut, bright and loaded with great fruit with lasting substance. —V.B. Castle Rock 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Mon- acid-driven light red-fruit flavors.Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 88 terey County). For full review see page 17. —M.K. Best Buy. abv: 12.6% Price: $28 Inman Family 2018 OGV Estate Endless Crush abv: 13.5% Price: $11 94 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Folktale 2018 Le Mistral Rosé of Grenache From the producer’s estate, this is an impressive Clos du Val 2018 Estate Gran Val Vineyard 91 Blanc (Monterey County). David Baird crafts wine, made in a light, crisp style that remains fresh 88 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carneros). Made entirely one of the more interesting rosés on the market by and focused in acidity. Dry, it unfurls lovely layers from stainless-steel fermented Pinot Noir, this has a letting Grenache Blanc sit with Grenache Noir skins of cranberry, cherry and orange peel alongside an lovely bouquet of floral aromatics and dry sensibil- for 16 hours to pick up color and flavor. That results undeniable mineral component that’s a mix of wet ity of balanced ripeness. Watermelon, strawberry, in aromas of light lemon skin, pluot and chilled stone and gravel. There are teases of rose petal along orange and freshly cut grass highlight a refreshing river water and flavors of nectarine, red plum and the way. —V.B. palate of light flavor. —V.B. raspberry, with unique hints of white pepper and abv: 12% Price: $38 abv: 12.9% Price: $NA herbs. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Inman Family 2018 Endless Crush Pratt Vine Etude 2018 Grace Benoist Ranch Rosé of 92 Hill Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). 88 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This has gritty tart Kokomo 2018 Rosé of Grenache (North Crisp, dry and made with intent, this is a meaty, acidity that pushes the palate in freshness and 90 Coast). High toned and delicious, this has substantive vineyard-designate that shows struc- bright fruit. Wild strawberry, cherry and peach fla- tension and freshness built around flavors of straw- ture and underlying power beneath its high-toned vors combine to complement the acid, finding com- berry puree, herb, grass and wet stone. Tart, dry and intensity. Wild strawberry and blood orange rise panionship in mint and dried herb. —V.B. palate cleansing, it ends with a lasting hit of citrus. to the top of the flavor profile, with teases of dried abv: 12.9% Price: $34 —V.B. herb. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $38 Educated Guess 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir 87 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 15. Morgan 2018 Rosé of Grenache (Arroyo Domaine de la Rivière 2018 Shoshana Rosé abv: 12% Price: $20 90 Seco). Very pale pink in the glass, this bot- 91 (Russian River Valley). This is a lovely, light tling shows light aromas of bubblegum, chalk and and refreshingly complex wine. Tangy in grapefruit, Emmi Cellars 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carne- cherry-laced cotton candy on the nose. There is a blood orange and strawberry flavors, it fulfills in 87 ros). This has a candied nose of sweet peach great grip to the palate, where lime, strawberry and terms of thirst and texture, offering just enough that gets wrapped up in grassy, herbal notes and a bubblegum flavors arise atop a streak of bright acid- tension to remain invigorating on the palate. —V.B. chunkiness on the palate of concentrated acidity. ity, finishing with watermelon candy. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $34 —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 12% Price: $19 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir Kings Carey 2018 Spear Vineyards Rosé of 91 (Sonoma­ Coast). This opens in heady, invit- Wente 2018 Niki’s Rosé of Pinot Noir (Arroyo 89 Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). A deeper shade ing aromas of rose and dried herb, the fruit sourced 87 Seco). Bright strawberry aromas meet with of pink in the glass, this bottling offers aromas of from Green Valley sites the producer likes for their lemon and tangerine peels on the nose of this bot- orange rind and sour cherry compote on the nose. high acidity. Candied apple, peach and strawberry tling from Monterey County. The palate is easy to The palate is more earthy and complex than a typi- flavors are high-toned and wrapped in silky texture, like if simple with hints of raspberry and lemon cal rosé, with muddled sour cherry, damp herbs and with good lasting grip. —V.B. spray. —M.K. dried red fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 11.5% Price: $25

Sandoval Mergenov 2018 Serenity Farm & Sojourn 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma Dusty Nabor 2018 Rosé of Grenache (Sta. 91 Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). 86 Coast). This is an effervescent bottling, 88 Rita Hills). A yellowish shade of pink in the Rich aromas of baked red cherry, hot pastry and a made from Pinot grown at several sites sourced for glass, this rosé sports a mellow nose that’s more touch of cola show on the nose of this bottling by a red wines by the producer. Good color gives way to a earth than fruit, with river stone and underrripe military veteran-turned-winemaker. It tightens up burst of citrus peel and strawberry dipped in herb, orange aromas. The acidity and texture on the sip dramatically on the sip, carrying those interesting with a touch of sweetness that ultimately goes dry. are compelling, with light flavors of lemon juice and riper flavors but in a more toned down style, with a —V.B. nectarine skins. —M.K. pinch of herbs as well. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $25

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 and offers flavors or sour lemon, nectarine and pear rounded red-plum and red-pear flavors, framed by ROSÉS OF SYRAH flesh. —M.K. a chalky, almost filmy texture. —M.K. abv: 11.7% Price: $27 abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Brick & Mortar 2018 Rosé (Sonoma Coast). 92 This is made entirely from Syrah picked Kori 2018 Highlands Vineyard Rosé (Santa Fossil Point 2018 Rosé (San Luis Obispo from a cool site near Petaluma. It impresses in its 90 Lucia Highlands). A deeper plum color, 88 County). A yellowish shade of pink in the dry, thirst-quenching body and structure, offer- this rosé also shows aromas of red plum as well as glass, this bottling offers tangy lemon peel and just ing complexity within a quaffable package of lovely cherry, bubblegum and the slightest hint of nutmeg. a tiny bit of red fruit on the nose. It’s very tightly flavor and texture. Grapefruit, Rainier cherry and There is zesty acidity on the tightly woven palate as wound on the palate, with slight peach and more apple add to the tart juiciness and stony sea spray. well as more than the usual spice, which kicks the lemon-rind flavors. —M.K. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. plum flavors up a notch. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $24 Pulchella 2018 Rogue Rosé (Adelaida Dis- Brick & Mortar 2018 Rosé (California). This Picayune 2018 Hay Penny Rosé (Mendocino 88 trict). This Tannat-based rosé from Bella 91 is a lovely drinking can of wine, made from 90 County). Stainless-steel fermented, this Collina Vineyard starts with red-plum and red- whole cluster-pressed Syrah grown in Clarksburg blends 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache into a fresh apple aromas that are tangy and earthy. The pal- and the Sonoma Coast. Dark red in color, it’s meaty package of fruity flavor and floral aromatics. Melon, ate’s tang is delivered by grapefruit skins and then and flavorful in fruit leather and plum. Refresh- peach and dried herb highlight a high-toned expres- rounded by bubblegum and sour orange, but the ing and light in style, it has enough body weight to sion of stony mineral. —V.B. texture is much thicker than expected. —M.K. take notice and leave a lasting impression. Editors’ abv: 12.8% Price: $19 abv: 15% Price: $40 Choice. —V.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $8/375 ml Prima Materia 2017 Bianco Sangiovese Samsara 2018 Rosé (Santa Barbara County). 90 (Kelsey Bench). This medium-bodied rosé 88 Very light aromas of wet stone and red berry­ Riley’s Rows 2018 Rosé of Syrah (North has a pale-salmon color, aromas of ­prosciutto and show on the nose of this blend of 60% Mourvèdre 90 Coast). Dark in color, this opens like an canteloupe, and mouthfilling meaty, spicy, apricot and 40% Grenache­. There is compelling texture to orange Creamsicle—rich yet high toned. Straw- flavors. It’s nicely dry and serious, and could easily the sip, where the strawberry-flesh flavors meet berry, herb, grass and lemon peel combine around pair with birds or beasts as well as appetizers. —J.G. with earthy tones of moss and mushroom. —M.K. the lightly ripe body full of tension and freshness. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.4% Price: $28 —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $27 Porch Pounder 2018 Rosé (Central Coast). Tiny House Vineyard 2018 Rosé of Pinotage 89 This is a very reliable and appropriately 88 (Sonoma Coast). Structured with under­ Lester 2017 Lester Family Vineyards Rosé named canned wine. It’s very pretty in pink color, lying tannins, this is a rare breed of Pinotage-based 87 of Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a and shows aromas of strawberry and tart berries. wine—dry and refreshing in layers of candied ­orange, strong sense of earth on the nose of this rosé, with It sizzles across the palate with simple but pleasing cherry and peach. It has a flinty note of matchstick clay and mud aromas as well as sour red fruits. The flavors of cherry, red plum and chalk. —M.K. that opens the nose to its interesting fruit and herb. palate is quite sour, with flavors of unripe plums and abv: 13.7% Price: $6/375 ml —V.B. red apples. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $24 abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Tenshen 2018 Rosé (Central Coast). A pale 89 shade of pink, this rosé offers soft bubble- Angels & Cowboys 2018 Rosé (Sonoma gum aromas along with freshly peeled lemon skins. 87 County). Light pink in color and delicately OTHER ROSÉS The texture is very chalky at first, then opens up flavored, this is a bright, refreshing wine made pri- to reveal sour grapefruit and red-plum-skin flavors. marily from Grenache. Dry, it features layers of cit- Sandoval Mergenov 2018 Rockets Red Rosé —M.K. rus and cherry flavor that are nuanced in wet stone 92 (Edna Valley). The rosé explosion is lead- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and herb. —V.B. ing into new styles that are well done, including abv: 12.8% Price: $NA this darker Grenache-based approach, which begins B.R. Cohn 2018 Rosé (Russian River Valley). with ripe cherry, strawberry and wet rock aromas. 88 This is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Ferrari-Carano 2018 Dry Rosé of Sangiovese It then sizzles onto the palate, with flavors of cherry Zinfandel and is substantive and grippy in texture, 87 (Sonoma County). This has bright red-fruit sorbet, proving lively and bright in flavor despite and is made in a meaty, robust style. Grapefruit notes met by stone-fruit elements of peach and apri- the dark color. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. pith, strawberry and blackberry highlight the fruity cot. Robust in body and flavor, it has lush texture abv: 13.4% Price: $28 midpalate. —V.B. and lasting hints of sage and smoked meat. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 Solminer 2018 Linus Rosé (Santa Ynez Valley). 91 Crisp aromas of red apple, light raspberry, Bushong 2018 Pretty in Pink Rosé (Paso Pedroncelli 2018 Signature Selection Dry rose petal and a hint of chalk make for an intrigu- 88 Robles). A darker shade of red in the glass, 87 Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). Cranberry in color, ing nose on this Grenache-based rosé. The palate is this rosé starts with mellow aromas of cherry this tastes of peach fuzz and strawberry, the texture tense and acid driven, offering flavors of cherry and juice, baking­ spice and warm pastry. There is solid creamy and lushly rich. Light bodied, it has a subtle light cola spice. —M.K. ­vibrancy to the sip, where the broad cherry flavors intensity on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $28 meet with red pear and red apple. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.1% Price: $23 Stolo 2018 Rosé (San Luis Obispo County). The Blending Lab 2018 Winegeleno Rosé 91 There is the usual hint of cherry on the nose Folktale 2018 Estate Grown Rosé (Monterey 85 (Paso Robles). This Mourvèdre-based rosé, of this rosé, yet much more unique tones of chalk, 88 County). Peach and Ruby Red grapefruit which includes 3% Tannat, starts with aromas of steel, wet gravel and crushed stone, making for a aromas make for a juicy entry to this rosé. There light nectarine and pluot. The palate is crisp and very mineral-driven expression. The palate is grippy is plenty of citrus energy on the palate, alongside acid­-driven, with slightly sour orange-rind and dried pear flavors. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $42

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BUYINGGUIDE

centrated nose on this bottling, which also shows Spear 2017 Block 13 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita PINOT NOIR a crushed stone and slate minerality. It is a denser 94 Hills). For full review see page 7. Editors’ style of Pinot Noir, full of dark yet not overripe fruit, Choice. Benovia 2016 Tilton Hill Pinot Noir (Sonoma offering black plum and more boysenberry as well abv: 14.5% Price: $60 98 Coast). For full review see page 3. Editors’ as loamy soils, forest floor and earthy herbs on the Choice. palate, with a baking-spice finish. —M.K. Three Sticks 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 15% Price: $60 94 Valley). Spicy and thick, with tart, lively and vibrant red fruit along the lines of pomegran- Brewer-Clifton 2017 459 Pinot Noir (Sta. Benovia 2016 Martaella Pinot Noir (Russian ate, strawberry and rhubarb, this is a lovely, com- 96 Rita Hills). For full review see page 3. 94 River Valley). For full review see page 5. plex and delicious wine, with dazzling notes of abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 forest floor, cola and nutmeg. It impresses end to end, with a moderate approach to ripeness that still Joseph Phelps 2016 Pastorale Vineyard Brewer-Clifton 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita packs a punch. —V.B. 96 ­Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From the pro- 94 Hills). For full review see page 6. Editors’ abv: 14.3% Price: $65 ducer’s estate property in Freestone, this is so, Choice. so good—an impressive wine that lingers in rose, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Three Sticks 2017 Price Family Estates Pinot ­cherry and vanilla. It has strong underlayers of for- 94 Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see est and baking spice along with a shock of white Chappellet 2017 Bateman Vineyard Pinot page 7. pepper, lavender and buzzy, fresh acidity. Moderate 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). From a vineyard abv: 14.2% Price: $65 in ripeness, it offers complex structure and makes a in the Green Valley area, this is a thick, complex lasting impression. —V.B. and seriously structured wine, layered in tension Wayfarer 2017 Wayfarer Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.2% Price: $85 and breadth. The fruit is crunchy in pomegranate, 94 Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Smoky oak lies cherry and citrus peel, the aromas steeped in rose. ­beneath thick tangy red fruit laced in high-toned Ancien 2016 Mink Vineyard Pinot Noir Richness develops along the way, weaving in a dis- acidity that takes on a quality of citrus in this bold 95 (Coombsville). For full review see page 4. tinct taste of dark chocolate. —V.B. and beautiful estate wine. Full bodied, with plenty abv: 14.2% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 of power, it displays remarkable grace that contrasts and complements the firm structured tannin. —V.B. Benovia 2016 Bella Una Pinot Noir (Russian Chappellet 2017 Grower Collection Dutton abv: 14.5% Price: $90 95 River Valley). For full review see page 4. 94 Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For abv: 14.2% Price: $80 full review see page 6. Blair 2015 Morgantini Vineyard Tasting Room abv: 14.5% Price: $45 93 Series Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Jeffrey Blair Benovia 2016 La Pommeraie Pinot Noir (Rus- is exhibiting his region’s earthy savory qualities in 95 sian River Valley). For full review see page 4. Gary Farrell 2016 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot lightly colored yet tensely structured wines. This abv: 14.5% Price: $62 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review begins with aromas of porcini mushroom and dried see page 6. strawberry on the nose before leading into delicate Brewer-Clifton 2017 Hapgood Pinot Noir abv: 13.9% Price: $65 but lively flavors of pomegranate, dried mushrooms, 95 (Sta. Rita Hills). Greg Brewer’s hallmark on pine needle, leather and dusty soils. Editors’ Choice. these wines are a purity of fruit, which, in this case, Gary Farrell 2016 McDonald Mountain Vine- —M.K. arises as strawberry sorbet on the nose, with hints 94 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For abv: 14.36% Price: $35 of thyme and tarragon. That red-fruit focus spreads full review see page 6. into the palate, where hints of cherry tomatoes and abv: 13.2% Price: $70 Dogwood & Thistle 2017 Oppenlander Vine- pepper dust lead into complex herbs and spearmint 93 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Elegant and toward the finish. —M.K. Goldeneye 2016 Gowan Creek Vineyard Pinot focused, this medium-bodied wine offers great fruit abv: 15% Price: $65 94 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see intensity, fine balance and a light touch on the oak. page 6. Cellar Selection. It’s made from Pommard clone grapes grown in a Brewer-Clifton 2017 Machado Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $86 noted Mendocino coast vineyard, using 25% whole 95 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 4. clusters in the fermentation and neutral barrels. It’s abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Goldeneye 2016 Split Rail Pinot Noir (Ander- not ripe but has tasty, concentrated black-cherry 94 son Valley). A sophisticated, toasty aroma flavors touched with rhubarb and blackberry. Best Domaine Della 2017 Earl Stephens Vineyard and absolutely ripe and mouthfilling fruit flavors through 2025. —J.G. 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full make this full-bodied wine impossible to ignore. abv: 14.4% Price: $38 review see page 4. Wonderful oak spices meet delicious black-cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and blackberry flavors on a moderately tannic and Domaine de la Rivière 2017 El Diablo Vine- mouthfilling structure. Best through 2024. —J.G. 93 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This Goldeneye 2016 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $86 new Russian River Valley producer is working with 95 (Anderson­ Valley). For full review see page both estate fruit and grapes from mighty sites like 5. Cellar­ Selection. Lucie 2016 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir El Diablo. Here, winemaker Kale Anderson coaxes abv: 14.5% Price: $125 94 (Russian River Valley). This wine has gor- tremendous power and flavor from the site, not sac- geous aromatics of lavender and rose as it develops rificing perfumed aromatics of rose and lavender Ancien 2016 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir on the palate into puffy lush tannins. With a robust along a midpalate of strawberry and smoky cherry. 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 5. powerful backbone of body and oak, it offers strong Full bodied, it has lovely tension and freshness. Cellar Selection. flavors of cola, cherry and citrus, all seamlessly —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 ­interwoven into a tapestry of bold intensity. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Apriori 2016 Hicks Family Vineyard Pinot Flying Goat Cellars 2015 Bien Nacido Vine- 94 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Dark boysen- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). There’s berry and elderberry aromas make for a very con- a gamy kick to the nose of this bottling, which is

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 common in wines from this historic vineyard, as and a slate-driven minerality, proving mellow but Flanagan 2017 Sun Chase Pinot Noir (Sonoma well as roasted fennel, dried chaparral and char- pleasant and complex. —M.K. 92 Coast). There is very little of this wine this cuterie aromas alongside the black-plum backdrop. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 vintage, but what exists has substantial presence. The sip shows sour cherry and cranberry flavors Tightly wound tannins give it a structured inten- ­before roasted pork flavors return. —M.K. Blair Estate 2015 Delfina’s Vineyard The sity and power, within floral fruity elements of abv: 13.9% Price: $60 92 ­Reserve Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Earthy spice, black tea and clove. The fruit is bright in wild aromas of iron and blood give depth to the cran- strawberry and raspberry. —V.B. Goldeneye 2016 The Narrows Pinot Noir berry, dried red cherry and sour strawberry aromas abv: 14.2% Price: $78 93 (Anderson Valley). This full-bodied full-­ on the nose of this reserve bottling. The palate’s red flavored wine marries luscious ripe fruit flavors with fruits are leveled by orange-rind and orange-juice Gainey 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). a generous helping of well-integrated oak spices­ flavors, with a bit of mint adding an herbal tone. 92 Rounded, soft and pretty aromas of straw- like cinnamon, clove and nutmeg. The mouthfeel is The acidity is sharp. —M.K. berry and pomegranate meet with pleasing touches broad and rich, the tannins are supple and the finish abv: 13.85% Price: $65 of mace, star anise and hibiscus on the nose of this lingers nicely. —J.G. bottling, which always offers good bang for the buck. abv: 14.5% Price: $86 Buena Vista 2017 Chateau Buena Vista ­Pinot The palate is rounded with pomegranate juice, pep- 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see percorn, thyme and coriander flavors, pairing spice Sanford 2015 Founders Vines Pinot Noir page 9. with soft red fruits.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). From the original own- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 rooted vines planted by Richard Sanford and ­Michael Benedict in the early 1970s, this bottling Cellars 33 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Goldeneye 2016 Confluence Vineyard Pinot offers earthy aromas of dried oyster mushrooms in 92 Tightly compressed with fresh, focused fla- 92 Noir (Anderson Valley). A smoky toasted oak paper bags, lanolin, smoke and smashed raspberry. vor, this wine opens in floral aromas of rose and aroma leads to spicy oaky flavors and full body in this The damp earth elements wrap the palate as well, lavender, sourced from a two vineyards within the assertively styled wine. A doughy scent is followed where dried berries and leather make for a very Old appellation, including Hummingbird Hill, a single- by very ripe cherry and blackberry flavors shaded by World expression that grows more fascinating with vineyard designate for the producer. Light delicately cinnamon, vanilla and tobacco. The oakiness domi- each sip. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. woven citrus notes are boosted by well-preserved nates and will be an added attraction for people who abv: 13.5% Price: $120 acidity that lends a spicy element to the finish. like this style. —J.G. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $86 Tondré 2015 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $35 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Bursting aromas of Goldeneye 2016 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). boysenberry meet with hints of caramel and freshly De Loach 2016 Maboroshi Vineyard Sebas- 92 For full review see page 10. grated nutmeg on the lively inviting nose of this 92 topol Hills Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $58 single-vineyard bottling. The vibrantly fresh pal- White pepper on the nose signals this is an inter- ate snaps with black raspberry, vanilla and floral esting cool-climate wine, with a delicate palate of Grey Stack 2016 Four Brothers Pinot Noir flavors, proving complex, refreshing and delicious. soft integrated tannin to match. Cherry, pomegran- 92 (Bennett Valley). This is a refreshingly —M.K. ate and rose petal accent the palate, with hints of cool-climate, delicately crafted wine with an endur- abv: 13.9% Price: $40 orange peel and dried herb. —V.B. ing freshness of red cherry and tangy background abv: 14.5% Price: $55 citrus. The palate is integrated and cohesive, with August West 2017 Peterson Vineyard ­Pinot elegance and long-lasting structure. —V.B. 92 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Freshly Domaine Della 2017 Graham Family Vineyard abv: 13.1% Price: $50 smashed pomegranate and mulberry meet with 92 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Full bodied flashes of licorice and nutmeg on the nose of this and robustly velvety in style, this offers a richness J. Lohr 2016 Highlands Bench Pinot Noir bottling. The ripe cherry flavors are rich on the pal- of vanilla and baking spice around core elements of 92 (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see ate but cut by green sage, pine needle and other rhubarb, strawberry and orange peel. The flavors page 10. ­interesting herbal elements. —M.K. come together around supple integrated tannin and abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $48 oak, with a deft thread of acidity throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Jayson 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). B.R. Cohn 2017 Pinot Noir (North Coast). For 92 Thick red fruit becomes approachable on the 92 full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. Domaine Della 2017 Terra de Promissio Pinot palate in this stylish, focused and full-bodied wine abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Rich and earthy, this from the coast. Big powerful waves of tannin and is a robust, full-bodied and memorable wine from pomegranate, cherry and cola are met by nuanced Blair 2015 Delfina’s Vineyard Pinot Noir the great site. Soft supple tannins support a core ­aspects of spice and earth, the finish explosive. —V.B. 92 (Arroyo­ Seco). Hibiscus and light red fruits of baked plum, cardamom and dusty crushed rock, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 meet with hints of pork roast on the mellow but with stemmy black tea and clove playing supporting enveloping nose of this bottling. The palate’s pome- roles. —V.B. Mansfield-Dunne 2017 Peterson Vineyard granate and sour cherry flavors meet with wild abv: 14.5% Price: $75 92 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Full and herbs, more roasted game and plenty of interesting pleasantly rustic aromas of cherry, cranberry, sage- floral tones. —M.K. Flanagan 2017 Gap’s View Vineyard Pinot brush, roasted game and crushed gravel show on the abv: 13.87% Price: $40 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a new site for nose of this single-vineyard bottling. The palate is the producer, acquired in 2015, this is made in tiny also savory and full of intriguing flavors, showing Blair 2014 The Reserve Delfina’s Vineyard amounts and shows savory character throughout. roasted pork in mulberry and cranberry sauce with 92 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Light in the glass, Floral and earthy, with a note of clove and flint, it’s a pinch of oregano. —M.K. this reserve bottling offers dried red cherries, dried tightly wound in grippy tannin and tart cranberry, abv: 14.2% Price: $48 thyme and rusty minerality on the nose. The palate cassis and raspberry, with a lasting trace of black tea. shows bright cherry and rosebud, with wet gravel —V.B. Sojourn 2017 Reuling Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $78 92 (Sonoma Coast). This is light and fresh in style, with a moderate amount of body weight mid-

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BUYINGGUIDE palate. Light in oak and well structured, it impresses Lucie 2016 Dutton Ranch Widdoes Vineyard a smooth velvety texture of integrated tannin and in dark cherry, blueberry and black tea. The site is a 91 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a bold background oak. Dark cherry, cola and baking small cool-climate parcel planted to three different spicy red, dazzling in baking spice and savory earthi- spice combine for a lovely experience of lushness on clones in Goldridge soils. —V.B. ness. Robust tannins provide underlying power that the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $69 matches the full-bodied concentration and velvety abv: 14.5% Price: $52 texture. —V.B. Solminer 2016 Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $60 August West 2017 Graham Family Vineyard 92 (Santa Barbara County). From a vineyard 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dark that’s west of the Sta. Rita Hills, aro- Mansfield-Dunne 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia ­cherry, black raspberry and hints of hibiscus and mas are quickly consumed by the herbal side of this 91 Highlands). Dried cranberries, peppercorns, rose buds arise on the nose of this bottling from wine, from green peppercorns to forest floor. The sagebrush and turned earth aromas show on the ­Sonoma. The flavors are nicely rounded on the palate falls in line, laying down a base of raspberry, nose of this appellation blend. The palate is layered palate with fruit punch, orange rind and clove, yet cranberry and orange rind but focusing more on with bay leaf, eucalyptus and menthol tones, set there is an underlying sharpness that penetrates the energetic eucalyptus and pine-needle flavors. against a dried dark-cherry backdrop. —M.K. into the finish. —M.K. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 abv: 14.2% Price: $48 abv: 12.8% Price: $54 ONEHOPE 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir (Monterey Bailarin 2016 Black Knight Vineyard Pinot Bridlewood 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita 91 County). This charitable project is funding 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Big in oak and brim- 91 Hills). Focused earth aromas of turned forest the search for an Alzheimer’s cure, and this tasty ming in rich red fruit, this wine is lightly spiced in floor, pine needle and eucalyptus give great depth bottling will help with the cause. Aromas of oak, cardamom and clove, with chalky tannins providing to the black-cherry backdrop on the nose of this caramel, baked cherry and crushed slate lead into additional texture. Medium bodied in style, it builds bottling. There’s judicious use of oak on the palate, a lush palate of ripe red cherry, wet stone, French flavor as it opens, showing rich layers of strawberry which frames the pomegranate, strawberry, thyme toast and oaky vanilla flavors. —M.K. and dark-cherry cola. —V.B. and pepper-dust flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Rodney Strong 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River Buena Vista 2016 Ida’s Selection Pinot Noir Deovlet 2016 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot 91 Valley). For full review see page 13. 90 (Sonoma Coast). Earthy with a persistence 91 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Concentrated black abv: 14.5% Price: $25 of cola and clove, this wine has a delicate structure cherry and dark berries meet with a floral lift, that’s soft and rounded within a context of ripe earthy soil and charred wood aromas on the nose Sandler 2017 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir power. Strawberry and orange compote give it a of this single-vineyard expression. The palate is 91 (Santa Maria Valley). A bit lighter in the fruity underbelly beneath the savory ripeness. —V.B. taut with grippy red-cherry and sagebrush flavors, glass, this bottling offers aromas of red cherry, sage- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 washed in grippy texture and fresh acidity. —M.K. brush, wild mint and rusty earth on the nose. The abv: 13.7% Price: $55 light and bright candied raspberry and pomegranate Darcie Kent Vineyards 2015 Rava Blackjack flavors of the palate are lifted by star anise and dried 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Monterey). This Pinot Deovlet 2016 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara sage qualities that emerge toward the finish. —M.K. Noir is very light in the glass and on the body, but 91 County). Aromas of baked black cherry, abv: 14.3% Price: $36 full of interesting flavors. Aromas of cooked pome- cola, charred oak and savory smoke make for a very granate, red plums and earthy eucalyptus on the approachable nose on this appellation blend. The Sandler 2017 Madzia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir nose lead into soft strawberry and bay leaf on the palate is full of prominent black cherry, loamy earth 91 (Bennett Valley). Subtle hints of smoke and palate. —M.K. and dried sagebrush flavors. —M.K. oak play against a light red-cherry, pomegranate abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 and cranberry backdrop in this bottling. The palate is cohesive, with flavors of red plum, dried herbs De Loach 2016 Van Der Kamp Vineyard Pinot Flanagan 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). and bright acidity. —M.K. 90 Noir (Sonoma Mountain). Earthy and robust 91 This appellation wine does justice to the area abv: 14.5% Price: $NA in ripeness and tannin, this is a powerfully concen- and vintage, showing a wealth of medium-bodied trated and structured wine, true to its mountain flavors defined in citrus, cherry and strawberry. Soft Stolo 2016 Hillside Reserve Pinot Noir (San roots. Spice, tea and rhubarb mark its midpalate and supple in texture, it should appeal widely and 91 Luis Obispo County). The reserve status of and complement the bigness of its profile. —V.B. over time, finishing in a savory edge of black tea. this wine must involve heavier oak, as the smoke abv: 15% Price: $60 —V.B. qualities extend across the nose and palate. Aro- abv: 14.3% Price: $64 mas of sour cherry, earthy mushrooms and toasted DNA Vineyards 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Rus- sandalwood lead into a smoky sip of bright pome- 90 sian River Valley). This light-bodied wine Fossil Point 2017 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). For granate, roasted pork, peppercorn and green-sage offers an opening note of candied citrus as it devel- 91 full review see page 12. flavors. —M.K. ops a juicy core of texture and flavor. Strong in bak- abv: 13.9% Price: $22 abv: 12.9% Price: $54 ing spice, it has secondary characteristics of forest floor and flint, with firm integrated tannin. —V.B. Iskaranu 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River ­Valley). Westerhold 2016 Estate Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $25 91 Light in color and texture, this is a light- 91 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Herbal, stemmy and bodied wine with underlying elegance and appeal. unusual, this is a tangy, layered and thickly robust Domaine de la Rivière 2017 Middle Reach Textured, it features delicate flavors of dried herb, wine with sizable tannin structure and weight. It 90 Vineyards Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). clove, raspberry and foresty earth. —V.B. holds up in the glass, allowing just enough acidity to This has a concentrated opening of rich red straw- abv: 13.9% Price: $42 freshen and intrigue. —V.B. berry and cherry, with a hint of cola and savory abv: 14.9% Price: $45 edges of forest floor and dried herb. The midpal- J. Lohr 2017 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Arroyo ate is succulent and softly layered, integrated and 91 Seco). For full review see page 12. Ancien 2016 Jouissance Pinot Noir (Russian ­impressively structured. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 90 River Valley). This is a full-bodied style of abv: 14.1% Price: $75 wine, reduced slightly and youthfully tight, with

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Domaine Della 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mansfield-Dunne 2017 Cortada Alta Vine- Sandler 2017 Peterson Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 Coast). This is an earthy, powerfully grippy 90 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). 90 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite delicate and ripe red wine, with nuanced layers of plum and ­Elegant aromas of dried purple flowers, cola and dark on the nose, this bottling shows mellow aromas of cherry cola. Dry firm tannins provide a powerful cherries show on the nose of this single-vineyard strawberry and raspberry alongside freshly cracked backdrop of ­intensity and complexity. —V.B. expression from Monterey County. The palate offers pepper and plucked herbs. The palate is coated in abv: 14.5% Price: $65 rich black-plum flavors that are lifted by gingerbread peppery spices and dried herbs that add depth to spice and dried sagebrush. —M.K. the dried red-currant flavors. —M.K. Domaine Della 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 90 River Valley). Juicy in black cherry and strawberry, this is an exuberant full-bodied red, Marimar 2015 La Masia Don Miguel Vineyard Sarah’s Vineyard 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa with layers of refreshing acidity that complement 90 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Power- 90 Clara Valley). Aromas of rusty earth, baked its velvety midpalate well. Soft and textured, the fully concentrated and intensely aromatic, this is red cherry, strawberry and dried herbs show on the tannins and oak are well integrated and add to the a balanced, ultimately elegant expression of cinna- nose of this bottling from the Gilroy area. Rounded overall power. —V.B. mon, clove and black tea, with a hint of rose and red-cherry flavors meet with wild chaparral herbs abv: 14.5% Price: $65 lavender on the nose. The tannins are firm and well on the tangy palate. —M.K. behaved, providing structure for the brambly blue- abv: 14.3% Price: $30 Flying Goat Cellars 2015 Rio Vista Vineyard berry and cherry. —V.B. 90 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Tangy abv: 13.5% Price: $49 Sean W. McBride 2017 Kim Giles Vineyard black-raspberry aromas meet with dark clove and 90 Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). This is a minty, Indian spices on the nose of this bottling. There’s Merriam 2016 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian eucalyptus-filled red from a vineyard overlooking a lot of forest floor and Mediterranean spice flavors 90 River Valley). For full review see page 14. San Pablo Bay southeast of Carneros. Tight and to the palate, which is framed by a sour cherry and abv: 13.8% Price: $45 savory, it is youthfully robust in cranberry and tangy berry core. —M.K. orange peel. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $50 One Hope 2016 Vintner Collection Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $35 90 (California). This juicy, delicious and well- Iskaranu 2017 Secret Clone Pinot Noir (Rus- balanced wine is one of the better offerings under Thirty-Seven 2016 Reserve Pinot Noir 90 sian River Valley). Tree bark and cinnamon the broad California appellation. It’s medium bodied, 90 (Sonoma­ Coast). Peppery spice and orange complement fruitier aspects of blue and red berry in well balanced and complex enough to keep sipping peel meet a touch of clove, tree bark and black tea in this well-made medium-bodied wine that’s in bal- through an evening. —J.G. this tightly woven, integrated and medium-bodied ance while presenting overall elegance. Savory and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 red wine. A lingering note of cherry and cola give it earthy, it delivers nice flavors and texture, keeping an understated richness that works within the high- the tannin and oak in check. —V.B. Pulchella 2017 Deadbeat Pinot Noir (Paso toned structure. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $49 90 Robles Willow Creek District). Mellow spice abv: 14.3% Price: $40 aromas of mace and cedar meet with light plum and Jackson Estate 2017 Pinot Noir (Petaluma soft raspberry on the nose of this Pinot Noir from Waxwing 2017 Deerheart Vineyard Pinot 90 Gap). Tight, juicy and youthfully tannic, Mendoza Farms. The palate shows a thicker streak 90 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Bright and this comes from the Cloud Landing Vineyard in the of fruit, with tangy red-plum and mulberry flavors fresh raspberry aromas meet with violet and dark new appellation, planted to a multiplicity of clones. alongside dried herbs. —M.K. hibiscus on the extremely floral nose of this bot- Textured and richly full bodied, it offers comple- abv: 15% Price: $50 tling. The palate is more fruity and primary with mentary elements of forest floor, tea, blueberry and black raspberry aromas alongside wild forest herbs orange peel. —V.B. Sandler 2017 BD10 Anniversary Cuvée Pinot­ and thyme. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 90 Noir (California). Concentrated aromas­ of abv: 14.5% Price: $55 blackberry and black raspberry are lifted by pepper­ JCB 2016 No 11 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). corns, rose buds and vanilla on the nose of this Waxwing 2017 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot 90 Earthy cola, cherry and strawberry give ­anniversary bottling. The palate’s peppery spices 90 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Aromas of this lush fruit-forward wine an undeniable rich- and forest-floor tones balance the tangy black-­ black plum, red licorice, star anise and light straw- ness and concentration, within a thick structure of raspberry and cranberry-fruit flavors. —M.K. berry show on the nose of this bottling from a vine- integrated tannin and big oak. It delivers on varietal abv: 14.2% Price: $NA yard in the Corralitos area. The palate is fresh with character within a big style. —V.B. flavors of plum and mulberry, which are framed by abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Sandler 2017 Boer Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chal- bright acidity. —M.K. 90 one). Black-cherry, black-plum and dark abv: 14.1% Price: $48 JCB 2016 No 3 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). floral aromas show on the nose of this bottling from 90 Juicy, expansive and generous in cherry a single vineyard in the rugged Chalone appellation. Wente 2016 Riva Ranch Pinot Noir (Arroyo cola, orange peel and pomegranate, this is a pro- The palate is framed by sandy tannins, revealing 90 Seco). Candied red cherry, clove and oak foundly rich, round and rewarding wine—a show- dark flavors of mulberry, rose petal and rich black smoke converge for a very accessible and invit- case of the varietal that’s hearty in tannin and oak plum. —M.K. ing nose on this bottling from the historic fam- but ultimately balanced in profile. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $NA ily’s estate. Pomegranate flavors meet with oak abv: 13.5% Price: $123 and vanilla bean on the palate, which is framed by Sandler 2017 Cortada Alta Vineyard Pinot chalky and sticky tannins. —M.K. Kenwood 2016 The Barn Pinot Noir (Sonoma 90 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Baked red abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 Coast). This opens in a robust, inviting nose cherry, chaparral herbs and rusty earth aromas of cherry, cinnamon, orange and rose, a nicely made, show on the nose of this single-vineyard expres- Buena Vista 2016 Bela’s Selection Pinot balanced and integrated mix of spice and fruit. With sion. The rusty quality extends to the sip, where 89 Noir (Russian River Valley). Spicy and fruit- a delicate midpalate, it hides its underlying ripeness dried cherry, pomegranate and cranberry flavors are forward in jammy plum and cherry flavors, this is a and richness well, with enough acidity to keep the framed by decent structure and acidity. —M.K. rounded and supple wine with length and a persis- palate fresh. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

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BUYINGGUIDE tence of earthiness. Black tea and cola play around Edna Valley Vineyard 2016 Winemaker Series earth and cherry cola, the oak a mix of French and the bold full-bodied edges. —V.B. 88 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Cherry, star anise,­ Hungarian. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $50 clove and chai spice show on the nose of this bot- abv: 14.7% Price: $28 tling from a winery owned by Gallo. The palate is Castle Rock 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey­ light with flavors of red plum and earthy herbs. Taft Street 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River 89 County).­ For full review see page 16. Best —M.K. 88 Valley). This is a fair deal: a wine of high Buy. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 quality that dances in cherry and strawberry, taking abv: 13.5% Price: $14 on a jammy sweetness on the nose. Expansive on the Fogline Vineyards 2014 Fogline Neighbors midpalate, its tannins are lengthy in savory hints of Chalk Hill 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River 88 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine is forest and tea. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 89 Valley). Juicy blue and red fruit highlight thick and tart, with sizable tannins. The fruit is abv: 14.4% Price: $28 a thick tannin structure of powerful intensity and firmly intertwined with the bigger elements of oak hearty oak in this ripe ribald wine from the pro- and power, showing a brightness of cherry and Timark 2017 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir ducer’s Trenton Road vineyard, situated in cooler strawberry. —V.B. 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Fresh yet concen- climes. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $65 trated aromas of black raspberry, star anise and nut- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 meg become quite tangy on the nose of this bottling. Hahn 2017 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Earthy The palate is thick and full of joyous strawberry Deovlet 2016 Zotovich Family Vineyard 88 aromas of crushed slate and loam meet with and raspberry flavors, all cut by green sage and an 89 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Riper aromas dark-red cherry on the nose of this bottling. Roasted­ ­increasingly sour tang. —M.K. of cooked cherries and stewed berries meet with wild berries, crushed thyme, turned earth and a abv: 14.5% Price: $45 cola on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. brisk acidity converge on the palate. —M.K. There’s a snap of acid to the sip and then the darker, abv: 14.3% Price: $NA Andretti 2016 Rosa Garcia Vineyard Pinot extracted berry flavors return, with a spicy kick of 87 Noir (Carneros). This is a thick, rich and root beer and fennel toward the finish. —M.K. Iskaranu 2017 Mimma Pinot Noir (Russian syrupy red, brawny in red and blue fruit, cola and a abv: 13.7% Price: $50 88 River Valley). This tiny-production wine lingering generosity of toasted oak. It has touches of has a delicate nose of black tea and wild strawberry dried herb and clove. —V.B. District 7 2017 Estate Grown Pinot Noir that leads to a concentrated midpalate of forest and abv: 14.6% Price: $54 89 (Monterey). For full review see page 15. Edi- hearty tannin. Orange-peel and rhubarb flavors tors’ Choice. round out the lengthy finish. —V.B. August West 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $49 87 Valley). Cranberry and mulberry aromas meet with green herbs and very tangy balsamic Edna Valley Vineyard 2016 Reserve Pinot JCB 2016 No 7 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). raspberry notes on the nose of this bottling. That 89 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Candied red- 88 Powerfully built, this has a rose petal bou- tang is overpowering on the palate, where sharp cherry, mace and oregano aromas show on the fruit quet and nicely layered midpalate of cherry cola and balsamic tones cut through the underlying red and likable nose of this bottling. Smoke and candied forest floor. The tannin and oak are pronounced and fruits. —M.K. cherry flavors appear on the palate, which is full of persistent. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 roasted and dark-fruit flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Böen 2017 Pinot Noir (Monterey County-­ Marimar 2015 Mas Cavalls Dona Margarita 87 Sonoma County-Santa Barbara County). An Noble Vines 2017 667 Pinot Noir (Monterey). 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earthy extra-deep color and obvious oaky cedary aromas 89 For full review see page 16. Best Buy. in mushroom and forest floor, this wine has a thick are followed by flavors of chocolate and blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $13 tannin structure and plenty of intensity. The fruit jam in this full-bodied, almost over-the-top wine. is savory in cranberry, pomegranate and rhubarb, —J.G. Bailarin 2016 Suacci Vineyard Pinot Noir tartly accentuating the high-toned acidity that is its abv: 14.5% Price: $25 88 (Russian River Valley). Perfumed in clove foundation. —V.B. and stems, this is an earthy wine with a light body abv: 14.2% Price: $47 Carruth 2016 Manzoni Vineyard Pinot Noir that is shy in fruit, opting for more savory complex- 87 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Quite gamy on the ity. Cranberry, strawberry and forest notes define it Montemar 2014 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). nose, this bottling offers aromas of iodine, black best. —V.B. 88 Dried cherry sauce and cola spice show on cherry and tar. The palate offers tangy cranberry, abv: 13.9% Price: $49 the nose of this appellation blend. The palate is also dried mint and leathery Old World flavors. —M.K. centered on dried red fruits and spiced by earthy abv: 14.7% Price: $55 Buena Vista 2016 Pinot Noir (Carneros). sagbrush. —M.K. 88 Earthy black tea and toasted oak accent a abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Cobble Creek 2017 Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). delicate opening bouquet in this widely appealing 87 Aromas of sandalwood, red cherry and light wine that is light and bright in wild strawberry and Montemar 2014 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot leather show on the nose of this bottling, which spice. —V.B. 88 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this bot- touts its organic, gluten-free, vegan-friendly ways. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tling is quite subtle at first, offering hints of fresh Red-currant flavors dominate the palate, which purple flowers as well as framboise and vanilla. The shows both a flash of acid and a thick texture. —M.K. Cupcake 2016 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). palate is dry with tart berries, bay leaf and minty abv: 14.3% Price: $18 88 Prominently earthy aromas of dust, baked herbs. —M.K. soil and dried cranberries show on the nose of this abv: 14.2% Price: $46 Delta 2017 Pinot Noir (California). Brick and widely available bottling. The flavors are also earthy, 87 Mortar winemaker Matthew Iaconis turns with wet gravel and hints of lanolin that mask the Roth 2016 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This his attention to making this affordable red sourc- simple but pleasant berry flavors in the background. 88 is a good value wine, made in a full-bodied ing from multiple cool-climate sites. Burly in black Best Buy. —M.K. style that will broadly appeal. Chalky tannins give ­strawberry, it has supportive acidity and a simplicity abv: 13.5% Price: $13 it a gravelly texture that is peppered in forest floor, to the texture, finishing in a waft of rose and laven-

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 der. The proceeds from the wine go to environmental oak. Moderate structure keeps it fresh in the glass. Bacio Divino 2016 Janzen Beckstoffer To causes. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. —V.B. 94 Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 From the great Oakville estate is this spicy jammy red brimming in robust tannin and oak. A sweetness Santa Barbara Winery 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Sojourn 2017 Riddle Vineyard Pinot Noir of cherry cordial, raspberry cream and vanilla make 87 Barbara County). Simple but pleasant aro- 86 (Sonoma Coast). This wine is substantial it richly rewarding on the textured, concentrated mas of ripe berries, earthy mushrooms and plum in weight and style, with an earthiness that per- palate, with a lasting note of earthy gunpowder at skins show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a sists around tight-grained tannin and pronounced the finish. —V.B. hint of ripe red fruit on the sip but then come more oak. The fruit flavor is marked in black cherry and abv: 15.1% Price: $225 interesting waves of tea leaves, eucalyptus and a a spritz of cola, with finishing touches of tea. —V.B. strong, slightly overbearing tobacco-leaf flavor. abv: 14.4% Price: $59 Cresta Velia Wines 2016 Eagle Summit Vine- —M.K. 94 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Sola 2017 Pinot Noir (California). This Entirely varietal, this is a boldly flavored, struc- 86 ­medium-bodied wine is good in quality and tured and complex mountain-grown wine, tense Taft Street 2015 Garagistes Pinot Noir (Rus- serviceable for casual occasions. It shows earthy and brimming in tannin. The juicy core of cherry, 87 sian River Valley). Tightly wound in tannin herbal aromas and sour cherry and rhubarb flavors. cassis and currant complements the darker, more and oak, this is a textured full-bodied wine high- —J.G. brooding elements of tobacco, clove and herb. This lighted in savory earth tones and a contrast of tart abv: 13.5% Price: $15 should do well over time; enjoy best from 2026– high-toned fruit. —V.B. 2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Timark 2014 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir abv: 14.6% Price: $95 86 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Very extracted Timark 2016 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir aromas of boysenberry balsamic dressing and bak- Laurel Glen 2015 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Baked red cherry, ing spice show on the nose of this bottling. The pal- 94 (Sonoma Mountain). This classically styled cocoa, tangy raspberry and a touch of earth show ate is loaded with tangy touches of orange juice and wine has pretty opening aromas of black currant, on the nose of this bottling. The palate is very tangy more sour boysenberry. —M.K. cherry and berry, with a slight tease of vanilla and with balsamic berry flavors that are framed by abv: 14.5% Price: $45 dark chocolate. High toned and supple on the pal- ­cedar-like wood tones. —M.K. ate, the tannins are well integrated and structured, abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Fogline Vineyards 2014 Starscape Vineyard with a good tension of acidity. Best 2020–2025. 85 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an Cellar Selection. —V.B. Timark 2015 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir uneventful red wine, perhaps past its prime, the abv: 14.2% Price: $90 87 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Concentrated mul- palate is muted in red fruit and quiet oak. —V.B. berry and dark-plum flavors are lifted by Christmas abv: 14.3% Price: $48 Rudd 2016 Crossroads Cabernet Sauvignon spices on the very rich and extracted nose of this 94 (Oakville). Made entirely from estate-grown single-vineyard expression. The palate is also very organically farmed grapes, including 14% Cabernet extracted with flavors of black-plum sauce, kirsch CABERNET SAUVIGNON Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, this is a dense expres- and dark clove. —M.K. sion of brambly blackberry, strawberry and darker abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Chappellet 2016 Hideaway Vineyard Mountain notions of tobacco and toasted oak. It has a beau- 97 Estates Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ­Valley). tiful bouquet of earthy tobacco and iron, powerful August West 2017 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia For full review see page 3. yet structured and dazzling in spice and dried herb. 86 Highlands). Very tangy aromas of grena- abv: 14.5% Price: $125 Enjoy 2026–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. dine, red plum and raspberry kick off the abv: 15.5% Price: $80 nose on this appellation blend. The palate is also Corison 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. extremely tangy with black-plum skin and more 95 Helena).­ In spite of a lightness of being The Setting 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex- balsamic notes. —M.K. to the wine’s palate weight, this is no doubt seri- 94 ander Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.3% Price: $34 ous wine, complex and integrated, with intriguing abv: 14.7% Price: $85 aspects of leather, earth and truffle. Soft and supple, MooBuzz 2016 Pinot Noir (Monterey). it shows a spiciness of clove and tart red raspberry Ulysses 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 86 There’s a slightly sour hint of red-plum skins and cassis, deliciously memorable in every way. 94 Valley).­ From the Ulysses Vineyard in and a touch of gamy leather to the slightly funky nose Enjoy best from 2026–2036 if you can stand the Oakville, and blended with small amounts of Cab- of this bottling. The Old World character extends to wait. Cellar Selection. —V.B. ernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine impresses in the palate, where macerated plums and dank mush- abv: 13.1% Price: $95 earthy sage, clove, cedar and tobacco. Old World in rooms meet with that gamy streak. —M.K. style, it has appealing aspects of crushed rock and abv: 14% Price: $20 Shafer 2016 One Point Five Cabernet Sau­ structured tannin, with just a hint of dark chocolate 95 vignon (Stags Leap District). For full review and currant. Best 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. Orsi Family 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River see page 5. —V.B. 86 Valley). This is an earthy, minty wine abv: 15.3% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $219 with deep elements of bay leaf and tea. The fruit is nuanced and light in style, a mix of rhubarb and The Setting 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Corley 2015 Yewell Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- cranberry. —V.B. 95 (Oakville). For full review see page 5. 93 gnon (St. Helena). Dusty sage and tobacco abv: 13.9% Price: $32 abv: 14.6% Price: $120 highlight a rich, balanced and complex expression of the variety, in this case 100% and from one prop- Pedroncelli 2017 Signature Selection ­Pinot Antica 2016 Mountain Select Cabernet Sau- erty. Thick, rich and tightly wound, it has underly- 86 Noir (Russian River Valley). Simple in red, 94 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see ing brightness and minerality that complement its rounded fruit, this is an approachable, value- page 5. Cellar Selection. sizable posture. —V.B. minded red wine that spent eight months in French abv: 14.9% Price: $70 abv: 14.2% Price: $80

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Cresta Velia Wines 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Calcareous 2016 Signature Estate Cabernet herb add to the complexity and layering of character. 93 (Howell Mountain). Juicy black fruit pres- 92 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Quite dark in the —V.B. ents as robustly full bodied and layered in this pow- glass, this bottling shows prominent fruit-forward abv: 14.5% Price: $85 erful wine, which is both supple and strong, with aromas of blackberry jam and oak, proving quite length and good integration of tannins and oak. A familiar and rich. Once sipped, the wine fills the Kendall-Jackson 2014 Stature Cabernet lingering note of smoked meat adds complexity and mouth with texture and flavor, combining the dark 92 Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Thick tan- savory intrigue. —V.B. fruit tones with baking-spice and woody notes, and nins wrap around juicy jammy flavors of blueberry abv: 14.6% Price: $120 finishing on vanilla. —M.K. and black cherry in this concentrated and savory, abv: 15.4% Price: $100 earthy wine. Additional aspects of dried herb, Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Cabernet tobacco and a touch of vanilla round out the full- 93 Sauvignon (Red Hills). For full review see Chappellet 2016 Signature Cabernet Sauvi- bodied experience. —V.B. page 8. Cellar Selection. 92 gnon (Napa Valley). This is made entirely abv: 14.5% Price: $100 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 from mountain fruit along the eastern hills of the Napa Valley, including the producer’s estate. It is Neyers 2016 AME Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Joseph Phelps 2016 Estate Grown Cabernet blended with 12% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec. 92 Valley). For full review see page 11. Cellar 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see Smoky oak, clove and tobacco accent red fruit and Selection. page 8. Editors’ Choice. a savory bottom line of cedar and sage. It’s rich but abv: 14.6% Price: $100 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 well behaved. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Rubino Estates Winery 2016 Riserva Collec- Judge Palmer 2015 Beckstoffer To Kalon 92 tion Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full Dante Robere 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This enticing wine has a spicy review see page 8. Cellar Selection. 92 (Livermore Valley). Lovely mint and cedar sexy swirl of oak in the aroma and broad saturated abv: 14.5% Price: $150 aromas draw attention, while rich oaky, chocolaty fruit and dark-chocolate flavors that flood the pal- flavors flood the palate with ripeness. Full body, ate with ripeness and linger on the finish. It’s very Parrish Family 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon moderate tannins and a sense of completeness and full bodied but stays smooth in texture. —J.G. 93 (Paso Robles). Dark in the glass, this bot- generosity make the wine especially attractive. abv: 15.5% Price: $29 tling offers deep black-cherry aromas along with —J.G. chipped graphite, wet slate and espresso bean. The abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Sojourn 2016 Oakville Ranch Cabernet Sau- palate combines violet, coffee-bean and black-fruit 92 vignon (Oakville). This well-sourced red flavors into a cohesive, elegant and deliciously lush Denali Estate 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. is sweetly rounded and rich in tobacco, cedar and experience. —M.K. 92 Helena). This new producer has the ­proper sage, with secondary notes of dark cherry and dried abv: 14.6% Price: $60 bona fides, employing sought-after consulting herb. Robust and powerfully built, it has rounded winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown to make the wine tannins and nicely integrated oak. —V.B. Ruby Hill Winery 2015 Jewel Collection Series from a site on the eastern edge of the appellation. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 93 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver- Juicy in dark cherry it offers a soft structure dotted more Valley). This high-powered wine is saturated in cocoa dust, baked plum, cedar and pencil—a rich, Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 Cabernet with aromatic, spicy and complex oak shadings that full-bodied style complemented by classic savory 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see integrate nicely with the very ripe berry and dried notes. —V.B. page 11. fruit flavors. It has almost the same mouthcoating abv: 14.8% Price: $NA abv: 14.3% Price: $60 density of a Port along with a hint of sweetness on the lingering finish. It’s bold, entertaining and En Garde 2015 Le Bijou du Roi Cabernet Sau- Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 V Cabernet ­satisfying. —J.G. 92 vignon (Diamond Mountain District). This is 92 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see abv: 15.5% Price: $55 a reserve-level wine, aged in 80% new French oak page 11. Cellar Selection. for 27 months. Intense on the nose in coconut and abv: 14.8% Price: $100 Sandler 2016 Lazare Vineyard Cabernet Sau- nutmeg, it offers robust chalky tannins and a strong 93 vignon (Oak Knoll District). This is a savory powerful core of concentrated cassis, sage and cocoa Wood Family Vineyards 2016 Especial Cab- and mineral-driven style of Cab, starting with aro- powder. It should do well in the cellar for a time; 92 ernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). While mas of crushed graphite, roasted pasilla chile, black enjoy best 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. it was aged in 60% new oak barrels, it’s the pure olive, damp soil and cassis. The palate is layered abv: 15.5% Price: $125 and concentrated black-cherry flavors that give with oregano and marjoram flavors that give depth this full-bodied wine a practically irresistible allure to the black-currant and roasted beef flavors. —M.K. Ghost Block 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from the first aromatic whiff to the fruit-soaked abv: 14.5% Price: $45 92 (Oakville). For full review see page 10. palate impression. Firmly tannic, it’s not too stiff abv: 14.5% Price: $75 and will make a great pairing with any number of Spoto 2016 Special Select Amber Knolls meaty, cheesy dishes. —J.G. 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). Hall 2016 The North End Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.7% Price: $55 For full review see page 9. Cellar Selection. 92 gnon (Napa Valley). This is a powerful, abv: 14.4% Price: $100 richly woven wine, substantially earthy and savory Wood Family Vineyards 2016 Viva Caber- in spirit. Elements of cedar, pencil shavings, sage 92 net Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This Bacio Divino 2016 Janzen Beckstoffer Missouri and tobacco characterize an expansive and weighty medium- to full-bodied wine is big but complex, 92 Hopper Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ­Valley). mouthfeel of explosive tannin and robust oak. —V.B. showing earthy tobacco-like aromas, ripe but dense Earthy and robust, this wine has intensity in abv: 15.2% Price: $70 blackberry and black-cherry flavors and a velvety spades. Full bodied, it is concentrated in Christmas blanket of fine-grained tannins. It’s balanced, not spice and baked plum, with a sweetness to the oak. Herencia 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chiles overripe and displays some of the classic black olive The tannins are big and structured, adding a chalky 92 Valley). Intensely flavored in blackberry and pepper aspects of Cabernet that are compelling. quality to the texture. —V.B. and cherry, this is a grippy full-bodied wine, with Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $165 underlying acidity that freshens its bolder tenden- abv: 13.5% Price: $38 cies impressively. Lavender, black licorice and dried

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Baily 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Temecula are dusty and substantial, providing structure Bacio Divino 2016 Janzen Cabernet Sauvi- 91 Valley). There’s a unique fennel-like spice ­within the thick concentration. —V.B. 90 gnon (Napa Valley). Sanguine in style, this that pervades many Temecula Valley wines, and abv: 14.7% Price: $125 is earthy and tart in red currant, blueberry and a veteran Phil Baily uses it to his advantage in this richness of graham cracker, the minerality a mix of bottling. Aromas of roasted strawberry, anise, bay Sullivan 2015 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi- iron and earth. The tannins are substantial yet pil- leaf, roasted plum and soy lead into a palate full of 91 gnon (Rutherford). This wine is tremendously­ lowy, making the palate soft and rich. —V.B. blackberry paste, marjoram and peppercorns. There structured and youthful in tannin and oak. The abv: 14.5% Price: $75 are hints of the Indian spice ajwain as well. Editors’ grapes come from the producer’s 26-acre estate, Choice. —M.K. which was first planted by ­Andre Tchelistcheff, a Bacio Divino 2016 Janzen Cloudy’s Vineyard abv: 13.7% Price: $40 friend of the original founder. (Sullivan is currently 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is owned by Juan Pablo­ Torres Padilla’s private invest- a hugely concentrated and powerfully built wine, Corley 2015 Tietjen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- ment group VITE USA.) The wine is made by Jeff chewy in tannin and oak. The fruit is overtaken by 91 gnon (Rutherford). This wine has an inviting Cole and shows smoky black fruit and elements dark-chocolate and tobacco notes, richly voluptuous floral nose that leads to an expressive generosity of of crushed rock. Age and enjoy best 2025–2030. in texture and lasting ripeness. —V.B. blueberry and cinnamon spice. Lengthy and robustly­ Cellar­ Selection. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $165 built, it has mineral earthiness along the lines of the abv: 14.8% Price: $110 region’s famous dust, a stony quality that remains Bjorn 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell memorable on the palate. —V.B. Trentadue 2016 La Storia Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Mountain). For full review see page 13. abv: 14.8% Price: $80 91 (Alexander Valley). This wine is well made abv: 14.6% Price: $85 and satisfying, opening in a bright sanguine nose Edge 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander of iron and leather. The midpalate is lengthy and Briceland 2015 Ishi Pishi Ranch Cabernet 91 Valley). For full review see page 12. Editors’ graceful, offering a succulence of cassis and black 90 Sauvignon (Humboldt County). Concen- Choice. cherry. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. trated black-cherry and black-currant flavors get abv: 13.9% Price: $24 abv: 14.3% Price: $38 great support from firm tannins and good acidity in this medium-bodied wine. It has good focus and Luna 2016 Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Vincent 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon concentration at relatively low ripeness, revealing 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is Old World 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). Aromas of smoked layers of fruit and light oak nuances as it opens up. in style, subdued and elegantly layered in dark black plums, dried earth and purple flowers make —J.G. cherry and plum. Structured and soft in its youth, it for a roasted nose on this reserve bottling. There abv: 12.3% Price: $39 contains 5% Petit Verdot and finishes in a nuanced is a pleasing snap of blackberry fruit on the palate, reminder of toasted oak and vanilla. —V.B. where toasty oak and caramel tones drive through Clos du Val 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.1% Price: $65 the delicately bodied wine. —M.K. 90 (Napa Valley). This is blended with 14% abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, Martin Ray 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags the whole given 20 months in a combination of 91 Leap District). Grippy and earthy in savory Vintage Cowboy 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon French and Hungarian oak. It shows bright floral black fruit, this appellation wine is strong and 91 (San Luis Obispo County). Lively aromas aromatics and bold flavors of blueberry, cinnamon power­ful in tannin and structure, with a smooth, of boysenberry juice, mint, pine wood and a hint and clove. The texture is soft and well integrated, underlying velvety texture that rounds out its full- of chocolate make for a very inviting nose on this with a light finish. —V.B. bodied edges. —V.B. ­bottling. There are plenty of minty herbal flavors on abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.9% Price: $75 the palate, where blackberry jam and pepper spice are backed up by sticky tannins. —M.K. Corley 2015 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sculpterra 2015 Bentley Ironworks Cabernet abv: 15.5% Price: $NA 90 Sauvignon (Yountville). This 100% single- 91 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This wine, which vineyard varietal wine is powerfully concentrated,­ spent 16 months in 57% new oak, shows deep Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 Alexander with a huge mouthfeel from the beginning. It aromas of black plum, cassis and prominent oak 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made evolves to show elements of leather, dry tannin and seasoning. The mouthfeel is fairly thick and full of from the oldest vines in the producer’s vineyard dark currant, with a tenacity to its structure. Enjoy black cherry, black currant and coffee foam, with ­estate, where concentrated berries result, this is an best from 2022–2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. acid that washes through on the finish. —M.K. herbal, grippy and indeed intensely taut tension- abv: 14.1% Price: $80 abv: 16% Price: $60 filled wine. Chocolate, fig and cherry liqueurmingle ­ on the complex palate of nuanced richness and Delta 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Silenus 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll ­lingering earthiness. —V.B. 90 This wine offers major bang for the buck, 91 District). This 100% varietal wine is made abv: 14.1% Price: $125 a soft nuanced layering of smooth juicy cassis and from grapes grown on two sites of the appellation, plum wrapped in leather and oak. Expansive and including the Silenus Estate. Opening in baked Yao Family Wines 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon structured, it has freshness without fuss. Best Buy. bread, brioche and cedar, it continues to develop 91 (Napa Valley). Softly layered and richly —V.B. expressions of dried herb, fig and cocoa powder round, this is an appealing wine blended with small abv: 13.5% Price: $15 in the glass between a good tension of acidity and amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Ver- ­integration. —V.B. dot. Concentrated and complex, it win­ds together Duckhorn 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $75 the sweetness of vanilla and cherry with spicy ele- 90 (Rutherford).­ Thick in dark chocolate and ments of clove, tobacco and sage. —V.B. leather, this is a lengthy, dry and grippy red wine, Sojourn 2016 Beckstoffer Georges III ­Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $95 sourced from two sites in the appellation. Herbal in 91 Sauvignon (Rutherford). Robust in dark clove and cedar, it is 100% varietal, its oak support- ­cherry-cordial flavor and a taste of sage, this is a Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Cabernet ive but not distracting. —V.B. powerfully concentrated and boldly ripe wine, 91 Sauvignon (California). For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $98 100% varietal and from the famous site. Tannins page 13. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Duckhorn 2015 Three Palms Vineyard Cab- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From the

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BUYINGGUIDE famous Merlot vineyard this is indeed inclusive of Martin Ray 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- wine from the famous mountain site also broods in 6% Merlot (and 2% Petit Verdot), which adds a 90 gnon (Diamond Mountain District). Bright dark chocolate, a richness that persists and pleases layer of softness and approachability. Thick robust red fruit finds tension in a bold layering of tannin the palate. Rounded, soft and rich, it has a spicy, black fruit and smoky oak highlight a lush supple and full-bodied concentration within this dark, earthy undercurrent that complements. —V.B. texture and significant bite of concentration and brooding wine. Blackberry, cocoa dust and flint abv: 15.2% Price: $75 power. —V.B. wrap around herbal components of turned earth, abv: 14.9% Price: $98 flint and sage, finishing in a punch of toasted oak. Sojourn 2016 Proprietary Cuvée Cabernet —V.B. 90 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is 100% Ghost Block 2016 Ghost Block Vineyard Cab- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 ­varietal, sourced from a mix of hillside and valley- 90 ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Soft, plush floor sites. Chocolate mocha, sweet cherry and dusty tannins surround a creamy texture of baked plum, Orsi Family 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry rock accent a lush decadent expression of robust­ cinnamon and cedar, the wine Old World in dried 90 Creek Valley). This is an Old World wine in ­full-bodied ripeness and concentration. —V.B. herb and sage components. Full bodied, it show- style—classic and muted in cedar and herb. Dry tan- abv: 14.8% Price: $125 cases the variety from the producer’s long-owned nins form a foundation for deft flavors of currant, estate. —V.B. tomato leaf and a bright streak of acidity. The finish Textbook 2016 Mise en Place Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 has a lasting strength of grippy tannin. —V.B. 90 vignon (Oakville). For full review see page abv: 13.8% Price: $32 15. Cellar Selection. Grand Napa 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.1% Price: $80 90 (Rutherford). With 5% Cabernet Franc, Paulownia 2016 Glass Mountain Vineyard this red is dotted in dried herb and sage, the tannins 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). For full Vincent 2015 Family Reserve Cabernet pillowy on the palate. A dusty rocky mineral compo- review see page 14. Cellar Selection. 90 Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Down-the-­ nent leads the way along a robust core of integrated abv: 14.5% Price: $145 middle aromas of blackberry pie, sweet cedar and concentration and dark flavors of blackberry and fresh rose buds show on the nose of this bottling black currant. —V.B. Rodney Strong 2015 Brothers Cabernet from a newer brand. The palate combines those abv: 14.5% Price: $125 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This single- same fruit and wood flavors with more complex vineyard wine is 100% varietal and hails from a hints of green herbs and tobacco, finishing with a Hall 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). 141-acre hillside site. It’s lush and smooth with a wash of acidity. —M.K. 90 Spicy and earthy in plum, black currant and ­velvety texture defined in blueberry toast, baked abv: 14.5% Price: $50 blackberry, this is a soft, supple and rounded wine, in plum and dark chocolate. It offers plenty of robust balance despite a hearty ripeness and bold texture of body weight and powerful tannin. —V.B. Vineyard 511 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dia- underlying tannic grip. It sources across the appella- abv: 15% Price: $75 90 mond Mountain District). Expansive and tion to showcase an approachable, robust­ memorable weighty, this powerful wine has a soft and supple experience of powerful concentration. —V.B. Rodney Strong 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sau- tannin structure and full-bodied ripeness, with abv: 15.5% Price: $NA 90 vignon (Sonoma County). For full review highlights of blueberry, currant and dark cherry. see page 15. Secondary notes of vanilla and dark chocolate J. Lohr 2016 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ­emphasize its enduring richness. —V.B. 90 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 14. abv: 14.8% Price: $149 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Roots Run Deep Winery 2014 The PhD Caber- 90 net Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). A 100% Waxwing 2017 Star Lane Vineyard Cabernet Judge Palmer 2015 Stagecoach Vineyard varietal wine, this is ripe and powerfully concen- 90 Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).­ 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dust trated, with grippy intensity. Perfumed notes of An elegant nose of thick black cherry, blueberry, and gravel components provide a mineral aspect to clove, nutmeg and tobacco follow through on the smashed violets and grape seed show on the nose of this mountain-grown wine, a study in classic ele- thick palate to highlight leather and smoked meat. this bottling. The tannins are very polished on the ments of cedar and dried herb. The midpalate is —V.B. palate at first but grow denser as the flavors of cocoa, richer and denser in chocolate-covered red cherry abv: 15.5% Price: $125 caramel and black cherry arise. Drink 2020–2032. and strawberry, with an underlying lushness. It’s Cellar Selection. —M.K. undoubtedly decadent in style. —V.B. Roots Run Deep Winery 2014 The Scholar abv: 14.6% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $115 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). With 5% Merlot, this hearty ripe wine spent two Chloe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (San Lucas).­ Judge Palmer 2015 Vinegrove Terrace Caber- years in French oak and another year aging in bottle. 89 Fresh aromas of blackberry meet with 90 net Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). This is a Soft, rich and round, it has a dense core of blueberry toasty oak, peppercorn and a hint of green herbs on soft, supple and spicy wine, brimming in black pep- pie and chocolate flavor that’s supremely decadent. the nose of this bottling. The palate’s core of black per and smoked meat. Expansive and broadly tex- —V.B. currant and black-plum fruit are lifted by woody tured, it has underlying grip and youthful tannin, abv: 15.5% Price: $125 spice and framed by medium acidity and tannins. with lasting flavors of black cherry and lavender. —M.K. —V.B. Sbragia 2014 Godspeed Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.7% Price: $95 90 (Mount Veeder). This substantial wine of considerable weight and tension has a thick entry Gnarly Head 2017 1924 Double Black Limited Judge Palmer 2015 Vintage Select Caber- from a grippy savory personality. Earthy dried herb, 89 Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full 90 net Sauvignon (Sonoma County). For full sage and currant define it, a nod to its mountain review see page 16. Best Buy. review see page 14. provenance. There is 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% abv: 15% Price: $13 abv: 14.7% Price: $43 Petit Verdot in the wine. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $95 Kirkland Signature 2015 Signature Series Lava Cap NV American River Red Cabernet 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full 90 Sauvignon (California). For full review see Sbragia 2014 Monte Rosso Cabernet Sau- review see page 15. page 14. 90 vignon (Moon Mountain District Sonoma abv: 14.9% Price: $19 abv: 14.6% Price: $20 County). Plummy and brimming in dark cherry, this

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Martin Ray 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon mountain Cabernet, this is blended with 10% rich wine blended with 10% Petit Verdot and a half 89 (Sonoma County). Thick, textured and ­Merlot and 10% Malbec. It also includes fruit from percent of Malbec. Blueberry and currant highlight richly dense, this well-priced red is broad in its off of the estate. Black-fruit forward, it has a bal- a palate of chalky tannin and toasted oak. —V.B. appeal, with a length of cassis, red currant and anced approach to oak and power, with a roundness abv: 14.1% Price: $35 toasted oak. The approach is moderate and in bal- to the palate. —V.B. ance, with light teases of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $50 Delectus 2014 French Wedding Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 87 vignon (Knights Valley). Meaty and brim- Layer Cake 2016 Bourbon Barrel Aged Caber- ming in smoky oak, this is a boldly ripe and richly Black Stallion 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 net Sauvignon (California). This attention- crafted red wine, with just 1% Cabernet Franc in the 88 (Napa Valley). This is an attractively priced getting wine boasts very ripe, grapey, dried-fruit mix. The tannin grip is significant and substantial. wine, well made and richly woven in strawberry and flavors and a broad full mouthfeel with very fine- —V.B. cassis. Smooth rounded edges of integrated tannin grained tannins that are not at all harsh. The flavors abv: 15% Price: $85 and oak punctuate a touch of grip on the powerful, are ample and the texture soft. —J.G. full-bodied finish.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $15 Highway 12 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 87 fornia). Perfumed and thick in tannin, this Maxville 2017 Big Max Cabernet Sauvignon is an intensely aromatic and layered wine, showing Cycles Gladiator 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (Central Coast). Rustic aromas of red fruit, highlights of clove, tobacco and clove. The fruit is 88 (California). This is a flavorful, enjoyable smoke and dusty earth show on the nose. There are nuanced and quiet, a mix of currant and cranberry. and drinkable wine. Abundant black-cherry and fresher fruit flavors of strawberry and even cranberry —V.B. blackberry-jam aromas lead to ripe black-fruit on the palate, where wood spices take over and lead abv: 13.9% Price: $15 ­flavors and a fairly broad texture that has just a into a graham cracker finish. —M.K. touch of tannin. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $30 Murphy-Goode 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $10 87 (Alexander Valley). Perfumed and thick in Newman’s Own 2017 Common Good Cabernet structure, this is a widely appealing wine bursting Elizabeth Spencer 2016 Special Cuvée Cab- 88 Sauvignon (California). The new releases in jammy blueberry and dark cherry that finishes 88 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft, round from Newman’s Own have stepped up in quality. robust in oak. —V.B. and jammy in raspberry, this wine also offers sage Flavors of black cherry, maple and chocolate come abv: 14.5% Price: $28 and compost—an underlying earthiness that com- with a hint of sweetness in this very polished, plements its more decadent tones marked addition- fruity, and approachable wine. Best Buy. —J.G. Muscardini 2014 Madrone Ridge Cabernet ally in chocolate mocha. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 87 Sauvignon (Moon Mountain District Sonoma abv: 14.7% Price: $65 County). Thick and concentrated, this wine is burly Oblivion 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso in black fruit and a lingering ripeness that takes on Enkidu 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma 88 Robles). Tart elderberry and red- and a generous lushness and mouthfeel. —V.B. 88 County). This wine offers a good value, black-plum aromas show strongly on the juicy nose abv: 14.4% Price: $54 opening in bay leaf and eucalyptus that is brightly of this bottling, along with hints of lilac and laven- interwoven with burly oak and textured tannin. der. The palate is very fruity, with smashed rasp- One Hope 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Cherry and cassis flavors give it a fruity lift before berry and red-currant flavors, while bright acid and 87 Robles). There is an earthy core of turned the finish’s powerful heat. —V.B. light tannins prove pleasant if simple. —M.K. loam on the nose of this bottling alongside fresh red abv: 15.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 cherries. The tannins are a bit hard on the palate, where roasted berry and damp herb flavors ride a Heir Apparent 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon River Road 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- lingering acidity. —M.K. 88 (Rutherford). Blended with 6% Cabernet 88 gnon (Alexander Valley). This is a gamy, abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Franc, this is a soft seamless wine that is creamy in brooding and darkly colored wine, offered at a nice texture and tannin. Pencil shavings and dried herb price. Juicy, rounded and rich, it shows balance Roth 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon complement a richness of black cherry and dark and complementary flavors of toasted oak, sage and 87 (Alexander­ Valley). Smoky oak and meat chocolate. —V.B. blackberry. —V.B. contrast against jammy black fruit and chocolate abv: 14.8% Price: $155 abv: 14.3% Price: $20 in this reserve-tier wine, aged 19 months in French oak, the majority new. A small percentage of Syrah Kenwood 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma­ Roth 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander adds to the meaty backbone of overt flavor. —V.B. 88 County). A bouquet of red fruit leads the 88 Valley). Blended with 13% Syrah, this is abv: 14.9% Price: $60 way to a juicy midpalate of structured richness and substantial red wine, perfumed in violet, with deep, oak, the latter well integrated and supportive. Bal- dark flavors of dark cherry, vanilla and toasted oak. Rutherford Hill 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon anced ripeness allows the cherry, cassis and cocoa Supple and soft, it finishes in a savory tease of cedar 87 (Napa Valley). Substantial tannins and a powder to impress in brightness. —V.B. and turned earth. —V.B. powerful presence of toasted oak give this wine a abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.8% Price: $30 heady full-bodied personality, complemented in red fruit, crayon and rich dark chocolate. —V.B. Kokomo 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Sculpterra 2016 Heroe Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $49 88 County). This provides good value and a 88 (Paso Robles). Peppercorns, roasted pasilla velvety smooth expression of the variety that should chile and asphalt aromas meet with bright red fruit Scholar and Mason 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon satisfy fans of a bigger style. Big-boned in tannin and on the nose of this bottling, which is a great Cab 87 (Napa Valley). This wine is nicely priced, oak, it settles into itself to show dense jammy flavors for a summer day. The pyrazine-laden palate is fresh offering baking-spice and smoky oak around a sim- of black cherry, currant and chocolate. —V.B. with more chile flavors that give depth to the under- ple core of structure and firm tannin. The flavors abv: 14.9% Price: $30 lying strawberry character. —M.K. are in balance and the wine ultimately easy to enjoy, abv: 13.1% Price: $25 with an understated elegance that should appeal. Laurel Glen 2016 Counterpoint Cabernet —V.B. 88 Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). Meant to Beaucanon 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 13.8% Price: $25 be enjoyable earlier than the winery’s signature 87 Valley). Sanguine in spirit, this is a thick

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BUYINGGUIDE

Sculpterra 2017 Heroe Cabernet Sauvignon The palate is very fruity, with flavors of blueberry blackberry, with the tannins well integrated and the 87 (Paso Robles). Light in the glass, this bot- gum and fennel frond. —M.K. wine full of tension and structure. —V.B. tling shows crisp aromas of cranberry, fresh herbs abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 15.3% Price: $50 and crushed graphite on the nose. The palate is a tad ripe, with candied cherry and pomegranate-syrup Kirkland Signature 2016 Cabernet Sauvi- Lava Cap 2016 Merlot (El Dorado). For full flavors, all lifted by mint and rising tannins on the 85 gnon (Stags Leap District). Blended with 91 review see page 12. finish. —M.K. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this is abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 oaky and robust in broad black fruit and a powerful midpalate of dried herb. It finishes thin. —V.B. Chappellet 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). Sojourn 2016 Home Ranch Cuvée Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $22 90 There is 10% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Sau- 87 Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Soft rich red vignon and 5% Petit Verdot in this wine, which fruit expresses itself along an integrated through- Wellsley Farm 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon represents a refined and complex expression of the way of tannin and oak. This being a 100% varietal 85 (Paso Robles). Damp wood, leather, mush- grape from a mountain site. Smoky oak meets black wine, it was given less time in new French oak than rooms and slightly sour blackberry aromas show on cherry, leather, dark chocolate and a touch of dried some of the producer’s vineyard designates. Leather the nose of this bottling. The fruit flavors of black- herb—flavors that accent a balance of tannin and and dried herb combine to accent the finish. —V.B. berry and plum are quite ripe on the palate, and structure. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $59 lifted by cedar touches. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 V. Sattui 2016 Vittorio’s Vineyard Cabernet Darcie Kent Vineyards 2015 Old Vines Merlot 87 Sauvignon (St. Helena). Part savory in soy, Wild Coyote 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 90 (San Francisco Bay). Subtle wood spices cedar and crayon wax and part robust in black plum 83 (Adelaida­ District). Concentrated and thick and ripe luscious fruit flavors make this full-bodied and berry, this wine is substantial in tannins most aromas of black currant are very tangy and cut by wine a stand out. It’s packed with opulent black- of all, which taste burly and beyond generous in the damp woody cedar tones. The palate is very tangy cherry notes that follow baking-spice aromas, and glass. —V.B. and thick with grape seed, blackberry and oaky feels smooth in texture, wrapping soft tannins abv: 14.7% Price: $75 ­vanilla flavors. —M.K. around all the generous flavors. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 AJA Vineyards 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 86 (California). Deeply concentrated aromas Flora Springs 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). of blackberry sauce are hit with a minty streak and MERLOT 90 This is 100% varietal and a good showcase strong cedar tones on the nose of this wine from for the grape. Thick rounded richness and dense a Malibu-based producer. The palate is very ripe Crosby Roamann 2015 Merlot (Oak Knoll Dis- flavors of cherry and vanilla are complemented by and extracted with tangy black-currant flavors and 93 trict). For full review see page 8. sage, cedar and dried herb. —V.B. strong acidity. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 abv: 14.3% Price: $49 Long Meadow Ranch 2015 Estate Grown Folie à Deux 2016 Merlot (Alexander Valley). Butler & Thief 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is a great vari- 90 For full review see page 14. 86 (California). This medium-bodied wine etal wine, with excellent quality particularly for the abv: 13.9% Price: $20 ­offers straightforward fruitiness and accents of dried price. The red is well integrated, with underlying herbs on a rather light texture with soft tannins. power and overall grace. Smoky black cherry, cassis Monticello Vineyards 2015 Estate Grown —J.G. and currant are accented by orange peel and high- 90 Merlot (Oak Knoll District). Blended with abv: 13.8% Price: $27 toned acidity, finishing soft and supple in tannin. 12% Cabernet Franc, this is a nicely made wine, soft Editors’ Choice. —V.B. and silky with a lasting thread of spicy clove and Devil’s Advocate 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $37 cinnamon. Forest-floor earthiness complements 86 (California). This is a showy wine that dark fruit and supple tannins, with a supportive exudes strong buttery oaky aromas, medium-inten- Petrified Forest Vineyards 2015 Totem Ridge embrace of moderate oak. —V.B. sity cassis and light herb flavors. It is medium to 92 Merlot (Knights Valley). Brawny and brood- abv: 14.2% Price: $45 full bodied, smooth and almost soft in texture. —J.G. ing in black and red berry, this is a well-integrated, abv: 13.8% Price: $13 cohesive and harmonious wine, aged 18 months in Silenus 2015 Merlot (Napa Valley). From French oak. The tannins are soft and supple and the 90 several sites within the appellation, the Gnarly Head 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- acidity high toned, allowing room for herbal ele- wine includes 6% Cabernet Sauvignon from the 86 fornia). On the lighter side for Cabernet, ments to shine within the fruit. —V.B. producer’s Oak Knoll District estate. This is a well- this wine shows lively fruit and herb aromas and abv: 14.4% Price: $36 made red, soft in plum and integrated in oak. It fresh flavors that are well matched by medium body expands on the midpalate to add a richness of black and very little tannin. —J.G. Wise Villa 2016 Estate Merlot (Sierra Foot- cherry and vanilla that’s lush and lengthy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 92 hills). Frankly oaky, this swaggering wine abv: 14.5% Price: $45 shows alluring cedar, nutmeg and vanilla aromas Neyers 2016 Neyers Ranch Cabernet Sau- followed by good ripe fruit flavors and more baking- Foley Johnson 2016 Estate Merlot (Ruther- 86 vignon (Napa Valley). This wine is planky spice nuances. The mouthfeel is broad and rich due 88 ford). This is an intensely powerful, ripe in oak and thick in substance, the tannins adding to a full body and lots of fine-grained tannins. —J.G. and robust wine, richly layered in black-cherry weight and grip. The flavors commingle plum with abv: 13.5% Price: $34 and chocolate flavors. Secondary characteristics of clove and black pepper. —V.B. clove, tobacco and dried herb nip at the full-bodied abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Crosby Roamann 2014 Merlot (Oak Knoll Dis- middle as toasted oak takes the final bow. —V.B. 91 trict). From the Jaeger Ranch in the heart of abv: 15.5% Price: $48 Sundry 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso the appellation, this is a spicy, lengthy and complex 86 Robles). Boysenberry and red-fruit aromas red, entirely varietal and made in small amounts. Kenwood 2015 Merlot (Sonoma County). mix with anise on the fruity nose of this bottling. Coconut, vanilla and clove accent soft plum and 88 With a spicy entry of clove and cinnamon, this wine is soft and supple on the palate—a light-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 bodied burst of cherry and blueberry that over­ Saint Tryphon 2016 Merlot (Sonoma wine, the palate is a little tepid, offering charred delivers on its price point. —V.B. 85 Valley).­ This is a slightly sweet, smoky and purple fruit and flowers. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ­seemingly manipulated wine, with a pronounced abv: 14.4% Price: $48 woodiness to the oak and an herbal quality that Pacific Redwood 2017 Organic Merlot (North gives it limited dimension. —V.B. Tri-Tip 2017 Malbec (Paso Robles). Roasted 88 Coast). This medium-bodied and smooth-­ abv: 13.5% Price: $32 86 plum and strawberry aromas meet with textured wine has a savory side to complement its hints of tomato on the nose of this bottling. The good blackberry flavors. The aromas of black olive Beaucanon 2013 Cuvée Louis Merlot (Napa palate is very tangy with boysenberry and grape and bell pepper are typical for the grape variety 84 Valley). This is a thick tannic red, with huge seed flavors, which would indeed work just fine for when grown in cooler areas and they don’t over- concentration and coating tannins. It tastes leathery a ­tri-tip barbecue. —M.K. whelm the nice fruit impressions on the palate. Best and earthy without much to offer in the way of fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Buy. —J.G. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $13 abv: 14.4% Price: $35 Wild Coyote 2017 Malbec (Adelaida District). 85 Very ripe and extracted aromas of black Sbragia 2015 Home Ranch Merlot (Dry Creek Schug 2014 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). This currant and vanilla make for a Port-like nose on 88 Valley). Blended with 5% Petite Sirah, this 82 wine is quite concentrated, viscous, with an this bottling. The palate is also syrupy with black-­ is a thick and meaty red wine, sanguine in iron and herbal imprint and notes of oak and cedar. The fruit currant, brown-sugar and coffee flavors. —M.K. red currant. It has a robust ripeness and concentra- is tangy and sour in red currant. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 tion with pleasing accents of dried herb and cedar. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 SYRAH CABERNET FRANC Ballentine 2016 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa Samsara 2015 Melville Vineyard Syrah (Sta. 87 Valley). This is a thick, concentrated and Lucas & Lewellen 2016 Valley View Vineyard 95 Rita Hills). The epitome of cool-climate robustly tannic red wine, with small amounts of 90 Cabernet Franc (Santa Ynez Valley). The Syrah from this region, this bottling flashes on the Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and 20% new French oak used in this bottling shows nose with crushed peppercorns, fresh dill, fennel Lagrein. It’s juicy in black cherry and dark choco- strongly on the nose, with roasted wood aromas and green sage, asphalt and underripe raspberry. late, with savory additions of cedar, pencil shavings overcoming the dark-red-cherry and light pepper The palate is lively, with plucked sage, coriander and and tobacco. —V.B. scents. The palate is wrapped in firm oaky tannins, obscure Mexican spices that give tremendous depth abv: 15.2% Price: $35 so more time will be needed to allow the smashed to the black-raspberry flavors —M.K. cherry and berry flavors to integrate with the vanilla abv: 13.8% Price: $48 Merriam 2014 Windacre Estate ­Merlot (Rus- elements. —M.K. 87 sian River Valley). For full review see page 15. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Samsara 2014 Om Reserve Syrah (Santa abv: 14.6% Price: $45 95 Barbara County). This five-year-old wine is Oak Mountain 2016 Cabernet Franc (Teme­ showing very well right now, indicative of how the One Leaf 2017 Merlot (California). This is a 89 cula Valley). Light and fresh aromas of cool climate style evolves into even more interest- 87 well-behaved, extremely affordable, firm- strawberry, cracked pepper, seared chiles and ing flavors with time. Aromas of black-pepper sauce, textured wine that has moderate oak and fruit fla- crushed slate make for a classic nose on this bottling. charred lamb gristle, roasted chile peppers and black vors in good balance and a nip of tannin to help give The palate snaps with freshness, delivering full fla- raspberry lead into a palate that’s spicy with pepper, it some grip. Best Buy. —J.G. vors of pencil shavings, seared red pepper and smoky herbal with pine needles and eucalyptus and framed abv: 13.5% Price: $10 red fruits. —M.K. by underripe wild berries. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $34 abv: 14.3% Price: $75 Hamilton Creek 2016 Merlot (Napa Valley). 86 This is thick meaty red wine that takes on Vincent 2016 Family Reserve Cabernet Franc Samsara 2015 Syrah (Santa Barbara ­County). a baked plum character accented in big tannin and 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Tangy boysenberry 94 This is a great entry-level look at cool cli- oak. —V.B. meets with packed purple flowers on the mel- mate Syrah. Aromas of seaweed, roasted rosemary abv: 13% Price: $24 low nose of this bottling. The palate is very tangy and raw lamb flesh are intriguing. The palate is also with balsamic blackberry flavors as well as peppery very gamy, spiced by peppercorns, iodine and dried Oak Grove 2017 Family Reserve Merlot (Cali- ­spices and dried herbs on the finish. —M.K. kelp, finishing on a rosemary lift. Editors’ Choice. 86 fornia). This wine is soft, fruity and easy to abv: 14.1% Price: $45 —M.K. sip. Grapey aromas and ripe straightforward black- abv: 14% Price: $38 berry flavors fill in the middle, and there is little ­noticeable tannin or acidity. Best Buy. —J.G. MALBEC Ex Post Facto 2017 Syrah (Santa Barbara). abv: 14.5% Price: $9 93 Greg Brewer explores the savory side of Syrah­ Opaque 2014 Malbec (Paso Robles). Dark in this bottling, which delivers aromas of thyme, Maggio 2016 Merlot (California). Oakiness 91 boysenberry aromas are quite boisterous green peppercorn, charred beef and elderberry on 85 pervades this medium-bodied one-note on the nose of this bottling, and pair well with the the nose. The palate packs in herbs and peppercorns wine from the spice-rack aromas to oaky mapley smoky oak tones. The palate is full of clean dark but also thicker black-currant flavors, providing both flavors and slightly drying tannins. —J.G. fruit and flowers as well as vanilla, riding a strong flavorful depth and textural richness. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $12 acidity deep into the finish. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $32 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Raymond 2015 Reserve Selection Merlot Kori 2017 San Saba Vineyard Syrah (Mon- 85 (Napa Valley). This has burly amounts of oak Parrish Family 2016 Malbec (Adelaida Dis- 93 terey). There’s a compelling mix of density and dry tannins, the ripeness generous in blackberry 88 trict). Very dark and dense in the glass, this and cool-climate qualities on this bottling, starting jam with herbal touches that don’t fully integrate. bottling offers aromas of cassis and lilacs, proving with aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, laven- —V.B. quite dense and somewhat shy. For such a dark der, lilacs and green peppercorns on the nose. The abv: 15% Price: $24 cohesive palate unites flavors of roasted coffee and

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BUYINGGUIDE charred meats with fresh black currant and minty fornia, showing the nervy peppery herbaceous side and lasting richness in the form of baked plum and herbs. —M.K. of Syrah. Smoke and black-pepper scents give way cherry flavor. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $42 to blackberry, fresh sage and grilled rosemary fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 vors, while light tannins and good acidity give it an Stringer 2016 Harrison Clark Vineyard Syrah ­appetizing balance. —J.G. Europa Village 2016 C’est La Vie Syrah 93 (Ballard Canyon). Aromas of roasted coffee, abv: 13.1% Price: $28 88 (Temecula­ Valley). Very light in the glass, blackberry syrup, black pepper and wood ash show this wine smells like strawberry extract and fen- on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. The Crux 2014 Syrah (Russian River Valley). nel, which are pleasant aromas yet not Syrah-like. palate is tart with black-plum skin but made com- 90 Blended with 8% Mourvèdre and 5% The palate offers light red-plum and strawberry plex with hints of lavender and roasted meats, prov- ­Petite Sirah, this offers varietally earthy intensity in tones, finishing on French toast. It is likable, if not ing very cohesive and seamless on the sip. —M.K. the form of turned earth, white pepper and a feral ­varietally familiar. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 note of grilled meat and mushroom. Sizzling back abv: 14.7% Price: $35 notes of acidity give it a lift of freshness and life that AJA Vineyards 2012 Pamela’s Selection Syrah adds to the overall balance. —V.B. Fogline Vineyards 2016 Summit Select Syrah 91 (California). This heavier style of Syrah abv: 14.6% Price: $38 88 (Sonoma County). Mint and eucalyptus comes from the Malibu area, showing aromas of appear on the nose of this full-bodied wine, which cassis, roasted meat, coffee and liquefied violets on Doffo 2016 Syrah (Temecula Valley). ­For full is otherwise bright and compelling in red fruit, the thick nose. Roasted berries and caramel show 90 review see page 13. earth and baking spice. Lifted, it’s thick in tannin on the palate, which should be enjoyed soon. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $69 and weight on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $44 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Keller Estate 2015 Rotie Syrah (Sonoma Fallbrook 2016 Syrah (California). Concen- 90 Coast). A nod to the northern Rhône, this Rock Wall 2015 Papa’s Syrah (Solano ­County). 91 trated blackberry aromas meet with savory is a cofermentation of 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier. 88 Amazingly lush and melting on the first sip, smoke, peppercorns and teriyaki roast beef on the Soft in supple texture and brimming in balanced this wine is very concentrated and full bodied and nose of this bottling from Southern California. There richness, it tastes of raspberry liqueur and plum, builds heat on the palate. It smells like maple syrup is a compelling tannic tension to the sip, where rich with a dash of nutmeg and cardamom. —V.B. and tastes rich and indulgent like dried fruits and blackberry flavors are layered across peppery spices, abv: 14.4% Price: $55 . —J.G. oak and a caramel-laced finish. —M.K. abv: 15.14% Price: $45 abv: 13.7% Price: $16 Kivelstadt Cellars 2014 The Inheritance 90 ­Estate Syrah (Sonoma Valley). With 2% Vincent 2016 Family Reserve Syrah (Santa Muscardini 2014 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry Viognier, this is feral and sauvage varietal wine, 88 Ynez Valley). Roasted blackberries, black- 91 Creek Valley). For full review see page 12. earthy and peppery with a fresh focused intensity of pepper, tar and violet-extract aromas show on the abv: 14.5% Price: $44 dark brooding flavor. It stays balanced in the glass, nose of this bottling. The palate offers blackberry, bright and lifted in acidity, with integrated tannin black-plum and Concord grape flavors, along with Pacific Redwood 2018 Organic Syrah (Califor- and oak. —V.B. coffee and lilac elements. —M.K. 91 nia). This full-bodied and immensely fruity abv: 14.1% Price: $49 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 wine (with no added sulfites) has such intense and concentrated fruit that the black fig, dried cherry McKahn 2017 Syrah (Spring Mountain Dis- Briceland 2016 Dark Horse Vineyard Syrah and blackberry seem to tumble over each other in 90 trict). Made in tiny amounts, this is a thick, 87 (Mendocino County). Made from organic the aromas and then spread rapidly over the pal- substantially concentrated red that’s powerfully fla- grapes, this wine is sturdy, well-structured and ate. The wine is all about generosity, ripeness and vored and textured. Licorice, lavender, gun smoke ­medium to full bodied. Moderate fruit flavors, a mouthfeel, which build up to a lingering finish. and flint accent its core of blackberry jam and cocoa light spiciness and supportive crisp tannins give it a Editors’­ Choice. —J.G. powder, the tannins structured and held in check. restrained but satisfying style. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $14 —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $27 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 Rancho Victoria 2015 Reserve Syrah (Amador Muscardini 2014 Vadasz Vineyards Syrah 91 County). Flavorful, polished and well struc- Bridlewood 2016 Block 7 Syrah (Santa Ynez 87 (Sonoma­ Valley). Chewy tannins form tured, this inviting wine lures with its very ripe 89 Valley). Crumpled lilacs, damp wood and around big bold flavors of tobacco, turned earth, black-fruit aromas and delivers rich black-cherry, blackberry aromas show on the nose of this block blueberry and mocha in this substantially concen- anise and cedar flavors. Soft interlaced tannins fill designate from the Gallo brand. Light sandalwood trated wine. A leathery backbone gives it softness the mouth and carry its concentration through the flavors meet with blackberry, dried purple flowers against the richness. —V.B. finish. —J.G. and charred oak on the palate. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $44 abv: 14.9% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Lawer 2016 Betsy’s Vineyard Syrah (Knights Rincon Mountain 2016 Estate Syrah (Paso Bridlewood 2015 Reserve Syrah (Santa Bar- 85 Valley). Earthy blueberry flavors ride along 91 Robles). Crushed lilacs, boysenberry, Con- 89 bara County). Boysenberry, dried violets, a thick tannic wall of powerful intensity. The mid- cord grape and potpourri show on the nose of this light caramel and a hint of tar show on the mellow palate is slightly dull and leathery. —V.B. bottling, which is grown in Paso Robles but made in nose of this bottling. The palate is quite tense with abv: 15.2% Price: $38 a winery that sits above the iconic Rincon Point surf stiff thick tannins that carry flavors of bright black- break. The sip is taut in texture, delivering flavors of berry fruit. —M.K. Wild Coyote 2016 Syrah (Adelaida District). lavender, violet and more grape, with tannins that abv: 13.9% Price: $40 84 Concentrated and extracted on the nose, dry up in the finish. —M.K. this shows grape seed, black-currant and cooked abv: 15.4% Price: $58 Cline 2017 Estate Grown Syrah (Sonoma Concord grape aromas. Similar flavors arise on the 88 Coast). Meat, lavender and toasted oak- sip, where black-currant and candied grape flavors Briceland 2015 Ishi Pishi Ranch Syrah (Hum- barrel notes combine well in this value-driven wine, also arise. —M.K. 90 boldt County). This exciting medium-­ which overdelivers on its price point. With a soft abv: 13.5% Price: $35 bodied wine takes the path less traveled in Cali- moderate midpalate, it has good power and weight

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 a small-production vineyard designate that is bright fine-grained tannnins will help it mature. Best from GRENACHE in strawberry, plum and vanilla. Light and crisp on 2024–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. the palate, it remains fresh and focused within a abv: 14.1% Price: $30 Kings Carey 2017 Spear Vineyards Grenache powerful middle palate of rich concentration. —V.B. 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Extremely light in the glass, abv: 14.6% Price: $36 Castle Rock 2017 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). this bottling from the small block of Grenache in 91 For full review see page 16. Best Buy. this newer vineyard is very aromatic on the nose, abv: 14.5% Price: $12 with strawberry, earthy chaparral and rooibos tea PETITE SIRAH aromas. It’s light and tense in texture on the sip, Porterhouse Winery 2015 Rodney’s Vineyard but the flavors of dried thyme, red plum and white McKahn 2017 Petite Sirah (Livermore ­Valley). 91 Petite Sirah (Santa Ynez Valley). A nod to the ­pepper are fresh, lively and delicious. —M.K. 94 Enticing spicy oak notes take front and butchering life of winemaker Adam Comartin’s fam- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 center in this deep and dark wine, and they’re so ily, this hearty bottling begins with floral aromas of gorgeous and complementary to the rich black-fruit lilac, cassis, violet and Concord grape on the nose. Meeker 2016 Hoskins Ranch Grenache (Dry flavors that it’s definitely a good thing. Pencil shav- Blackberry jam and more grape flavors meet with 92 Creek Valley). This is 100% varietal and ings, tobacco, cedar and cocoa meet blueberry and pepper dust on the palate, which is not as thick aged in fairly neutral oak, a fruit-forward expres- blackberry on the palate while a dense layer of fine- as other Petite Sirahs but powerful nonetheless. sion of the grape that opens in a fantastic nose of grained tannins makes the mouthfeel big but sooth- —M.K. white pepper, violet and lavender. Full bodied and ing. Best through 2029. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 fleshy, it is well integrated and robustly complex. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 —V.B. Parrish Family 2016 Petite Sirah (El Pomar abv: 14.6% Price: $38 Dante Robere 2016 Petite Sirah (Livermore 90 District). Blueberry-cream, smoky sea-salt 93 Valley). Saturated and dense, this full- caramel and rich fudge aromas make for a very lush Samsara 2015 LaBarge Vineyard Grenache bodied indulgent wine layers dark chocolate over and luxurious nose on this bottling. Those elements 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this bottling is blueberries aromas and pours ripe, almost thick spread into the palate where they join black-cherry extremely floral, starting with rose petals and lav- blackberry jam over the palate. Accents of wood jam, toffee and coffee-cream flavors as well. —M.K. ender before diving into raspberry and cola spice. smoke and black pepper add a dimension of com- abv: 14.8% Price: $42 The lavender and rose buds arise on the sip as well, plexity, while firm tannins support all the fruit. Best along with tarragon, fresh red fruit and grippy, even through 2025. —J.G. Wilson Family 2014 Reserve Petite Sirah slightly chunky tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $42 90 (Paso Robles). Black-currant, açai and abv: 14.7% Price: $48 Concord grape aromas prove very purple on the Rancho Victoria 2016 Petite Sirah (Amador nose of this bottling, and there is also a touch of Kaena 2016 Clone 513 Tierra Alta Vineyard 93 County). Spicy and complex, this full-bodied­ cracked pepper and dried lilac. The black-currant 91 ­Grenache (Ballard Canyon). Black cherry, wine has an alluring aroma and generous black-fruit core of the palate is lifted by rosemary blossoms, baked licorice and a pinch of peppercorns show on flavors. Scents of cedar, cinnamon and tobacco rainbow peppercorns, chocolate and roasted wood the nose of this clonal study of Grenache. The pal- from aging in 50% new American barrels give it a flavors, all framed by sticky tannins. —M.K. ate offers warm flavors of cherry compote with star spicy start, then lip-smacking blackberry and cocoa abv: 14.2% Price: $36 ­anise and caramel, framed by compelling texture ­flavors take over. An abundance of fine-grained tan- and fresh acidity. —M.K. nin shapes the mouthfeel and will help it age. Best Maggio 2016 Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full abv: 15.3% Price: $50 through 2024. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. 89 review see page 16. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $34 abv: 13% Price: $12 The Blending Lab 2016 G Grenache (Paso 91 Robles).­ Stewed strawberry, rose water, Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2014 Petite Sirah Parvaneh 2016 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). clove and smoke show on the plummy nose of this 92 (Red Hills). For full review see page 10. Cel- 89 Dried blackberry, roasted beef, smoke and bottling. It’s fully flavored on the palate, with loads lar Selection. a whiff of vanilla show on the nose of this bottling. of spice and fresh ripe fruit flavors, all resting on abv: 14.1% Price: $65 The palate shows slightly sour tones of black cur- lively acidity. —M.K. rant and blueberry with hints of baking spice that abv: 15% Price: $42 Lava Cap 2016 Reserve Petite Sirah (El cut through the dense texture. —M.K. 92 Dorado).­ For full review see page 11. Cellar abv: 14.8% Price: $35 The Grenachista 2016 Mounts Vineyard Selection. 91 ­Grenache Noir (Dry Creek Valley). This wine abv: 15% Price: $32 Stokes’ Ghost 2016 Petite Sirah (Monterey). opens in an inviting contrast of white pepper and 88 Very dark in the glass, this bottling, named compost, the tannins meaty and quiet in their Le Casque 2016 Petite Sirah (Sierra ­Foothills). after a famed Monterey spectre, shows dark black- power. Supple texture forms a foundation beneath 92 This wine is huge but well balanced and well berry, iodine and tarry elements on the nose. The strawberry, currant and baked plum. —V.B. polished, so it’s fun to drink now or can be saved tannins are very grippy and thick on the sip, and abv: 14.2% Price: $36 until more of the tannins are resolved. Lightly spicy need some time to mellow, and the flavors of charred aromas are followed by delicious blackberry and wood and boysenberry are a tad rustic. —M.K. Crux 2015 Grenache (Russian River Valley).­ dark-chocolate flavors on a mouthfilling texture of abv: 14.5% Price: $34 90 Blended with 5% each of Syrah and fine-grained tannins and full body. It is best from Mourvèdre, this bold red is bright in strawberry, 2022–2030. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Rippey 2015 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This bold violet and white pepper, complex with depth and abv: 15.3% Price: $30 87 and smoky wine has a heavy oak influence weight. Supple tannins allow the fruit to speak, sea- that shows up in the wood-smoke aromas and soned in baking spice and a tease of vanilla. —V.B. Miraflores 2016 Estate Petite Sirah (El charred black-pepper flavors. It is full bodied, quite abv: 14.7%h Price: $45 92 Dorado). Bold flavors and a massive struc- tannic and dominated by woodiness more than ture make this outstanding full-bodied wine a good fruitiness. —J.G. The Grenachista 2016 Mathis Vineyard candidate for further aging. Concentrated blueberry abv: 14.8% Price: $20 88 ­Grenache Noir (Sonoma Valley). This vari- and dark-chocolate notes fill the aroma, while­cocoa, etally focused producer does a nice job here, offering espresso and blackberry coat the palate. Layers of

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BUYINGGUIDE

The Blending Lab 2016 PS Petite Sirah (Paso charred beef, iodine and more black olive. Editors’ portive, adding weight and impressive structure. 87 Robles). Sour blackberry, violet and a hint Choice. —M.K. —V.B. of pepper show on the nose of this bottling. The abv: 13.9% Price: $36 abv: 15.2% Price: $32 purple-flower flavors shine through on the palate, as do blackberry-jam and teriyaki meat flavors, and Wild Coyote 2017 Tempranillo (Adelaida Pech Merle 2015 Cuccio Vineyard Zinfandel the finish is very tangy. —M.K. 88 District). Roasted strawberry aromas meet 91 (Dry Creek Valley). Berry, cherry and black abv: 15.5% Price: $42 with oak smoke on the mellow nose of this bottling. pepper delight around a substantial body of lengthy The palate is tangy with roasted red-plum flavors weighty ripeness and complexity in this well-made Locke 2014 Petite Sirah (Calaveras County). that are enhanced with touches of leather and wine. It has an intriguing backbone of smoked meat 86 This big and ripe-tasting wine is heavily ­tobacco. —M.K. that meets its match in black licorice and a finishing scented with raisins and dried plums, and shows abv: 14.25% Price: $45 touch of vanilla oak. —V.B. lots of dark-fruit flavors on a firm and tannic frame. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $36 ZINFANDEL August Briggs 2015 Ancient Vines Zinfandel 90 (Calistoga). Perfumed on the nose and thick Hendry 2015 Blocks 7 & 22 Zinfandel (Napa on the palate, this wine is also high-toned in cur- TANNAT 94 Valley). For full review see page 6. rant, red cherry and a spicy thread of nutmeg and abv: 15.3% Price: $36 pepper. The texture is leathery and lengthy, with a Le Vigne 2015 Riservato Tannat (Paso Robles).­ rich concentration of fruit that remains in balance. 91 Cohesive aromas of blackberry and black cur- Beekeeper Cellars 2016 Hidden Hillside —V.B. rant are jammy but well restrained on the nose of 93 ­Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County). abv: 14.9% Price: $45 this reserve wine. The wine is well balanced on the Blended with 15% Petite Sirah, this is an impres- palate with firm chalky tannins and refreshing acid- sive mingling of two high (1,500-feet in elevation) Benovia 2016 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). ity, allowing the black-fruit flavors to ride deep into sites: Montecillo and Madrone Spring. Together, 90 From the producer’s Cohn Estate Vineyard, the finish. —M.K. they form a worthy alliance of vanilla, plum and planted in 1970, this is Zin from a Pinot Noir per- abv: 16.1% Price: $59 earthy black pepper, the sizable tannins structured spective, given gentle treatment and cooperage in and full of grace. Soft, thick and complex, it begs French oak (34% new). Juicy, thick and robust in Wild Coyote 2017 Tannat (Adelaida District). for more time; enjoy best from 2026–2031. Cellar tannin, it settles into a softness of floral aromas and 90 Pleasing aromas of caramel, roasted black Selection. —V.B. high-toned red and black cherry and berry laced in currant and black plum show on the nose of this abv: 14.7% Price: $95 nutmeg. —V.B. bottling from a winery that proudly only makes red abv: 15.2% Price: $42 wines. The tannins are a bit chunky on the palate, Joseph Jewell 2016 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel but flavors of cassis and cappuccino make for an 93 (Dry Creek Valley). Aged in French oak, 25% Calcareous 2017 Kate’s Vineyard Zinfandel ­enjoyable sip. —M.K. of it new, this is a pretty, bright and impressive 90 (Paso Robles). Concentrated aromas of abv: 13.75% Price: $50 wine, brimming in beautiful waves of strawberry black raspberry, dark strawberry, fresh black cur- and blackberry. The inviting aromas and fresh acid- rant and dried herbs are lush but elegant on the Pulchella 2015 Henchman Tannat (Adelaida ity balance out an undeniable power at the wine’s nose of this single-vineyard bottling. The sip is 88 District). Black-currant, black-pepper and core, reined in by structured tannin. —V.B. fresh with black-plum and boysenberry flavors, lilac aromas show on the nose of this bottling from abv: 14.5% Price: $42 with minty herbs giving extra intrigue. —M.K. the Bella Collina Vineyard. Blackberry and more abv: 15.6% Price: $45 black-currant flavors arise on the palate, where sage Beekeeper Cellars 2016 Secret Stones and thyme show up, making for a more complex sip. 92 Madrone Spring Vineyard Zinfandel (Rock- Pezzi King 2015 Midnight Estate Zinfandel —M.K. pile). Blended with 20% Petite Sirah, then aged in 90 (Dry Creek Valley). Plum cake and spice ride abv: 15.5% Price: $50 all French oak, 25% of it new, this is an outstand- a thickly concentrated middle of red fruit and ten- ing wine from a burly mountainous appellation. sion, making for a complex experience in the glass. A robust hearty nose of oak, tobacco and leather Robust and ripe, it’s soft and layered, too, with a TEMPRANILLO leads the way to a high-toned midpalate of cherry pleasant complexity of integrated oak and tannin. and berry dusted in crushed rock and black pepper. —V.B. Bodega de Edgar 2015 Gran Reserva ­Laetitia —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $34 92 Vineyard Tempranillo (Central Coast). abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Smoked beef in a cherry-compote sauce, minty River Road 2016 Boschetti Vineyard Old Vine herbs, loamy soils and wet slate are all aromas that Enkidu 2016 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma 90 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Floral and present themselves on the compelling nose of this 92 Valley). This thick rich wine benefits from pretty in its bouquet of wild strawberry, this bold bottling, which spent 36 months in barrel. The the additions of 15% Carignane, 6% Alicante Bous- full-flavored wine is appealingly spicy in black pep- palate is smoky in flavor, with black-cherry and chet and 4% Petite Sirah, the entirety given a year per and a dash of dried herb. Raspberry and plum ­purple-flower touches and stiff tannins that carry in neutral oak. Peppery and velvety smooth, it’s flavors last and linger, unfettered by tannin, which into the savory finish. Drink 2020–2030.Cellar intense and complex, with strong flavors of black is well integrated and soft. —V.B. Selection. —M.K. cherry and licorice. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $20 abv: 15.5% Price: $65 abv: 15.5% Price: $25 V. Sattui 2016 Crow Ridge Ancient Vine Zin- Croma Vera 2017 Joven Tempranillo (Paso Pezzi King 2015 Hales Zinfandel (Dry Creek 90 fandel (Russian River Valley). Sanguine, 91 Robles). Rich aromas of black cherry, char- 92 Valley). This has a peppery entry that sea- meaty and moderate in oak, this is a generously coal, olive and cola make for a compelling nose on sons a core of thick black fruit, leather and tobacco. ripe rich red. It offers substantial weighty waves this young Tempranillo. The palate combines deep There’s a hint of flint and black licorice in there as of ­jammy black fruit and a depth of dark chocolate. and dark blackberry and black-plum flavors with well. The tannins are significantly built and sup- —V.B. abv: 16% Price: $55

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 V. Sattui 2016 Gilsson Vineyard Old Vine blackberry flavors, lifted by fresh acidity and finish- Camp 2016 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 90 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Juicy in ing on a vanilla kick. —M.K. 85 This easygoing red offers simple red fruit blackberry and plum, this generously ripe rich wine abv: 15.7% Price: $42 that’s built around a basic core of structure and is soft and well-integrated and has aromas of rose little oak. —V.B. and cinnamon. Teases of dried herb give it ­additional V. Sattui 2016 Quaglia Vineyard Ancient Vine abv: 13.4% Price: $19 complexity and unexpected nuance. —V.B. 88 Zinfandel (St. Helena). This is a field blend abv: 16% Price: $42 with undetermined amounts of Petite Sirah and Ess-eff 2016 Teldeschi Zinfandel (Dry Creek Carignane within. Sweet jammy cherry is accen- 85 Valley). Blended with 8% Petite Sirah and V. Sattui 2015 Ramazzotti Vineyard Zinfan- tuated by a thread of vanilla, the rich texture is made in a tiny amount, this is an earthy wine with 90 del (Dry Creek Valley). Spice and herb com- creamy and lush. —V.B. a thickness of brawny black fruit, nutmeg and sage. bine memorably in this well-composed, bright and abv: 15.5% Price: $49 —V.B. powerful red wine. Brambly and brooding in black abv: 14.7% Price: $38 ­cherry, it remains intriguing and richly concentrated ZO Wines 2017 Winemaker’s Select Zinfandel in the glass. —V.B. 88 (Dry Creek Valley). This new producer is Pezzi King 2015 Serracino Reserve Zinfandel abv: 15.3% Price: $46 devoted to small-production wines from its home in 85 (Dry Creek Valley). Made from vines over the appellation, blending this one with 15% Petite­ 100 years old, and blended with 15% Petite Sirah, V. Sattui 2015 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Sirah. Peppery and floral, it has a soft, delicate and this is peppery and leathery on the palate, with an 90 Herbal and sanguine, this is a thick, rich elegant core characterized by delicate flavors of extreme generosity of tannin that’s hard to miss. and rounded wine with hints of iron, currant and black cherry and strawberry. —V.B. —V.B. stone. It holds its weighty ripeness well. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $48 abv: 15.4% Price: $48 abv: 15.1% Price: $37 St. Anne’s Crossing 2015 Ami Cheri Zinfandel St. Anne’s Crossing 2015 Slattery Road Zin- Vintage Cowboy 2015 Zinfandel (San Luis 87 (Sonoma Valley). Reduced on the nose, this 85 fandel (Sonoma Valley). Hugely grippy, this 90 Obispo). Very stony aromas of wet gravel big wine is jammy in red fruit with secondary ­aspects is a tremendously powerful ripe wine, big and burly meet with rose buds, dried berries and a hint of of dried herb and olive. Ultimately it leans concen- with a sweet palate of dark chocolate and tobacco. leather on the nose of this restrained Zinfandel. The trated and syrupy in sweet cherry and chocolate. Blackberry jam is dipped in cinnamon and pepper palate is also more about minerality than fruit, with —V.B. for the finish. —V.B. flavors of river stone blending into cassis and purple abv: 15.3% Price: $36 abv: 15.6% Price: $40 flowers. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $23 Ektimo Vineyards 2015 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Ektimo Vineyards 2015 Zinfandel (Russian 86 Valley). Pruney with jammy, nutty black 84 River Valley). Reminiscent of cinnamon DeLorimier 2015 River Lane Reserve Primitivo fruit, this wine is well integrated and high toned in toast, this is a tangy light wine, with high-toned 88 (Alexander Valley). Smoky in oak and firm nature, with an impressive underlying foundation cranberry and currant that tastes disjointed in its in tannin, this is a surprisingly high-toned wine, of structure that helps support the rich fruit. —V.B. mix of savory and sweet. —V.B. with a core of crisp red fruit. It belies the overall abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 power and generosity of the wine, which is richly concentrated. —V.B. Muscardini 2015 Los Chamizal Zinfandel Wild Coyote 2017 Zinfandel (Adelaida Dis- abv: 15.5% Price: $44 86 (Moon Mountain District Sonoma County). 84 trict). Extremely extracted in style, this Syrupy blueberry flavor underlines a rich and round bottling offers concentrated blackberry and grape DeLorimier 2015 The Station Reserve Primi- palate of bold ripeness in this vineyard-designate, seed aromas, along with brown sugar and mint on 88 tivo (Alexander Valley). Brambly in jammy which finishes in a flourish of cinnamon and mocha. the treacly nose. The palate is thick, sweet and rich, black fruit, mocha and cinnamon, this is a soft, —V.B. almost like a Port. —M.K. rounded and rich wine that pushes the envelope on abv: 14.9% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 ripeness and concentration, but will please fans of the style. —V.B. Portalupi 2016 Dolinsek Ranch Old Vine St. Anne’s Crossing 2015 Shumahi Vineyard abv: 15.7% Price: $44 86 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This quite 83 Primitivo (Sonoma Valley). Thick, syrupy ripe wine is raisiny sweet in baked flavors of plum and green, this has a harshness of tannin atop an Kenwood 2015 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). and gingerbread, with an interesting complement abundance of jammy black fruit. —V.B. 88 Blackberry syrup and a richness of choco- of peppery spice. Big, bold and thickly rich, it’s odd abv: 15.4% Price: $36 late combine effectively in this broadly appealing and appealing at the same time. —V.B. wine, tart in the midpalate, with acidity that helps abv: 15.8% Price: $48 Pezzi King 2015 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek balance the overall juiciness and heat. —V.B. 82 Valley). This is earthy and quite green, with abv: 14.5% Price: $16 St. Anne’s Crossing 2015 Tripi Vineyard Zin- a dullness to the fruit and an unclean barrel imprint. 86 fandel (Russian River Valley). Spicy black —V.B. Pezzi King 2015 Row 26 Reserve Zinfandel plum and dark chocolate melt into developed flavors abv: 15.6% Price: $36 88 (Dry Creek Valley). This ribald ripe wine of thick, syrupy brown sugar, with plenty of body opens in a sweet nose of blackberry jam and cinna- weight and heat. This is a brawny rich wine. —V.B. mon, then delivers a follow-up of black pepper and abv: 15.5% Price: $36 RED BLENDS palate of herbal intensity. Brazenly concentrated, it’s soft, rich and round. —V.B. Summit Lake 2014 Estate Zinfandel (­Howell Bodega de Edgar 2016 Mi Montsant (Paso abv: 16.2% Price: $65 86 Mountain). Fruity and thick in waves of 94 Robles Willow Creek District). There is coffee and chocolate, this is a rich, round and ­extreme aromatic depth to the nose of this blend of The Blending Lab 2016 tZ Zinfandel (Paso approachable wine that should appeal widely to 50% Garnacha, 33% and 17% Tempra- 88 Robles). Roasted strawberry and smoky oak fans of a bigger bolder style. —V.B. nillo, from kirsch and lilac to licorice and roasted make for a simple but pleasant nose on this bottling, abv: 14.9% Price: $34 meat. The palate combines black-raspberry, açai The palate is loaded with rich and concentrated

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BUYINGGUIDE and black-plum flavors, with underlying hints of ment of sage and thyme to the red-cherry back- Stolpman 2017 La Cuadrilla (Ballard Canyon). loamy soil and dried lavender. —M.K. bone of this blend of 40% Grenache, 34% Syrah 92 Dense aromas of baked black plum, lilac and abv: 15.2% Price: $56 and 26% Mourvèdre. The palate snaps with flavors cherry cola show on the nose of this red blend that of black raspberry and cherry foam, then is lifted is dedicated to and managed by the winery’s vine- Bodega de Edgar 2016 Mis Pasos (Paso by baking spice, a chalky texture and fresh acidity. yard crew. Cola, roasted fennel and grilled straw- 94 Robles).­ Dense and dark in color, this blend —M.K. berries and red plums show on the palate, which is of 34% Tempranillo, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and abv: 14% Price: $34 framed by tense tannins. —M.K. 33% Syrah offers aromas of smoky black currant, abv: 14.1% Price: $22 loamy earth and oak on the nose. It’s thick on the Bonterra 2014 The Butler (Mendocino palate, with chunky yet pleasant tannins that will 93 County).­ For full review see page 8. Tablas Creek 2017 Patelin de Tablas (Paso smooth with time, revealing strong flavors of cassis abv: 14.8% Price: $55 92 Robles). There is a great core of black plum and intense violet. —M.K. and dark berry to the nose of this blend of 48% abv: 15.2% Price: $56 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2015 Piocho Reserve Syrah, 32% Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre and 4% 93 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This is a Counoise, but also a fresh rose-petal component. Bodega de Edgar 2016 Priorato (Paso Robles very fresh and pleasantly fruity Bordeaux blend of It’s brisk on the palate with crisp damson plum, 94 Willow Creek District). Edgar Torres takes a 56% Cabernet Franc, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, raspberry and melon flavors, accented by a slight stab at Priorat with this blend of 60% Carignan, 11% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot,­ start- gravel minerality. —M.K. 15% Garnacha, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% ing with aromas of ripe dark strawberry and cracked abv: 13% Price: $25 Syrah from the new Paper Street Vineyard, and suc- pepper. The palate combines that dark-red fruit ceeds with a deeply concentrated mix of strawberry, with green peppercorn and woody spices, making Thacher 2016 Oddly Natural (Adelaida Dis- black cherry and purple flowers on the nose. The for an elegant yet immediately enjoyable sip. —M.K. 92 trict). Intense aromas of dark blackberry palate is pure purple, with lilac, wisteria and boy- abv: 13.6% Price: $42 and cooked black plum meet with earthy herbs and senberry flavors, framed by chalky tannins. Drink root beer on the nose of this blend of 43% Grenache,­ 2020–2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. Quest 2016 Proprietary Red Wine (Paso 38% Syrah and 19% Counoise. The palate offers abv: 15.2% Price: $56 93 Robles). Austin Hope’s new red blend sports flavors of incense, roasted berry and grilled meat, compelling packaging and tasty insides, starting proving to be a heavier blend. —M.K. Happy Canyon Vineyard 2015 Piocho (Happy­ with rich aromas of caramel, fudge, cassis, coffee abv: 15.9% Price: $52 94 Canyon of Santa Barbara). Aromas of black and turned loam. The palate follows through with plum, olive and bittersweet chocolate show on the milk-chocolate and black-cherry flavors, framed Thacher 2015 Original Copy (Adelaida Dis- nose of this Merlot-led blend, but it is the under- by chalky tannins and enhanced with a minty lift. 92 trict). This blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvi- lying minerality of crushed rocks and turned earth —M.K. gnon and 34% Cabernet Franc is done in a more that’s most compelling. The palate is smooth, with abv: 14.5% Price: $27 savory style, with aromas of black pepper, dried everything from oak and cocoa to rose buds, violets olive, charred oak, boysenberry and a slightly rising and black currants. The tannins are expertly pol- Sol Rouge 2015 Gypsy Rouge (Red Hills). An floral kick. The black-plum and blackberry flavors ished and the density is ideal. —M.K. 93 enticing blend of oak spices and ripe berries are framed by more charred wood on the palate and abv: 14% Price: $32 gives this Grenache-based, full-bodied and very fla- lifted by pepper-dust spice. —M.K. vorful wine a great start, before it floods the pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $60 J. Lohr 2015 Cuvée St. E (Paso Robles). For ate with plush black-cherry and blackberry flavors 94 full review see page 7. wrapped in a velvety, softly tannic texture. —J.G. Ca’ Momi 2016 Rosso (California). For full abv: 14.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $32 91 review see page 15. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Moraga 2015 Bel Air Red (California). For Diora 2016 Three Crowns Estate Grown Red 94 full review see page 7. Cellar Selection. 92 (San Bernabe). For full review see page 10. Le Casque 2016 Calotte G-S-M (Sierra Foot- abv: NA Price: $175 abv: 15% Price: $25 91 hills). This wine is full bodied, has great balance and pleasing, subtle spice and fruit fla- Parrish Family 2016 Silken (Paso Robles). Opaque 2016 Darkness (Paso Robles). For vors that are nicely interwoven on the palate and 94 Lush aromas of vanilla bean, cola and black 92 full review see page 11. finish. Appetizing grippy elements of mild tannins cherry are quite delicious on the nose of this blend abv: 14.5% Price: $35 and good acidity give it a lively texture that rewards of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Syrah and 20% continued sipping. It’s a GSM blend with emphasis Petite Sirah. The Silken name is right on, as the Proulx 2016 Jack Barrett (Paso Robles). This on the Grenache. —J.G. texture is silky indeed, with dense flavors of cocoa, 92 detailed blend of 32% Syrah, 21% Grenache abv: 14.9% Price: $25 caramel cream and cherry cola. —M.K. and then 11 other grapes hits the mark, with aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $52 mas of black plum, wet gravel, wild mint and sage Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Hidden Asset Estate on the nose. The palate proves elegant in presenta- 91 Vineyards Red Wine (Santa Barbara County). Tablas Creek 2017 Cotes de Tablas (Adelaida tion, with wild black raspberry, elderberry, Concord For full review see page 12. 94 District). This is just a lovely wine that grape and a decent display of herbal flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $29 showcases the delicate but true-to-style hand of abv: 14.7% Price: $62 vintner Jason Haas and his team. The blend of 53% Pulchella 2016 Awakening (Paso Robles). Grenache, 25% Syrah, 12% Counoise and 10% Pulchella 2016 Highs & Lows (Paso Robles). 91 Freshly smashed violets, white pepper and Mourvèdre starts with bright aromas of red plum, 92 Quite dark in the glass, this blend of 59% strong blueberry aromas show on the nose of this strawberry and sumac. The palate snaps with acidity Grenache from Heaton Ranch Vineyard and 41% blend of 75% Tannat and 25% Petite Sirah from and chalky texture while delivering bright red fruit Syrah from two other vineyards makes for a com- three different vineyards. Those purple-flower and and underlying herb flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. plex experience, starting with aromas of concen- blueberry flavors extend to the palate, which is abv: 14.5% Price: $32 trated black plum, nutmeg and clove. Those baking- fresh, clean and loaded with lively character. —M.K. spice elements carry into the palate, giving depth to abv: 15.1% Price: $50 Archium 2016 Dissident G-S-M (Santa Barbara the mulberry and floral flavors. —M.K. 93 County). There is a lot of herbal enhance- abv: 16.4% Price: $75

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Rock Wall 2017 Red Wine (High Valley). Big Flanagan 2014 Serenity Way (Bennett four vineyards. The palate is tense with sour black- 91 and bold but also polished around the edges, 90 Valley).­ This is a blend of 80% Cabernet berry and soft tannins, leading into a mouthfilling this wine is an unusual 50-50 blend of Zinfandel Sauvignon and 20% Merlot that has power and vanilla and marzipan finish. —M.K. and Petite Sirah. It’s full bodied and offers deli- structure in spades. A layering of mocha and cof- abv: 16% Price: $50 cious, grapey, jammy and handsomely oaky aromas, fee bean rides along a leathery earth center that’s saturated black-fruit flavors that verge on sweet, and creamy and lush on the palate. The tannins are firm Tercero 2018 Aberration (Santa Barbara gobs of soft tannins that add heft without harshness. and chalky, leading to a peppery finish. —V.B. 90 County). Winemaker Larry Schaffer recom- —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $150 mends this blend of 40% Cinsault, 40% Grenache abv: 15.56% Price: $35 and 20% Carignane be served with a chill, which Isolde’s Rapture 2016 Red (California). Deep better presents the fresh, gluggable flavors of water- Rotta 2016 Time Capsule (Paso Robles). Deep, 90 and delicious, this very concentrated and melon, beet juice and damp earth. The palate carries 91 dark and brooding in the glass, this blend of high-octane wine boasts rich chocolate and boysen- the ball forward with red apple and jujube flavors, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot and berry aromas, saturated blackberry-jam flavors and wrapped in bright acidity. —M.K. 25% Malbec is loaded with aromas of red cherry a hefty but smooth texture. It has a bonanza of bold abv: 12% Price: $30 compote, cedar, licorice and mint. The palate’s tan- fruit notes and sufficient melted tannins to wrap up nins are thick, with acidity that pokes out toward that fruit nicely. —J.G. Z. Alexander Brown 2017 Uncaged Propri- the finish, bookending flavors of blackberry paste, abv: 15.6% Price: $25 90 etary Red Blend (Cali­fornia). For full review anise and dried mint. —M.K. see page 15. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.1% Price: $75 Kaena 2016 JWB Red (Santa Ynez ­Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $18 90 Mikael Sigouin takes a break from Gre- Rubino Estates Winery 2016 Tuscano Famiglia nache to deliver this blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvi- Calcareous 2016 Lloyd of Calcareous (Paso 91 Collection (Livermore Valley). Sophisticated, gnon and 34% Syrah, which is rich on the nose with 89 Robles). Deep aromas of black currant and perfumed oak aromas and a great combo of opulent black-cherry, violet, cocoa and caramel aromas. The violet buds show on the nose of this blend of 46% fruit flavors laced with baking spices and cedar make palate is thick, with dark fruit and lilac flavors, Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet this Tuscan-style blend an interesting and complex leading into a baking-spice finish. —M.K. Franc, 10% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. The pal- wine. As full bodied and well structured as it is, it abv: 15.1% Price: $50 ate is very full with flavors of blackberry, Concord could stand in for a Cabernet Sauvignon. —J.G. grape, cedar and smoke, with a slightly tangy edge. abv: 15% Price: $32 Le Casque 2016 Espion (Sierra Foothills). —M.K. 90 This flavorful and well-polished blend of abv: 15.1% Price: $62 Andis 2016 Painted Fields (Sierra Foothills). Syrah and Petite Syrah balances lively concentrated 90 For full review see page 13. fruit flavors against moderate tannins. Black cherry, Deovlet 2015 Sonny Boy (Happy Canyon of abv: 13.5% Price: $22 black currant and hints of dark chocolate make it 89 Santa Barbara). This blend of 78% Merlot delicious, while the firm texture should help it and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon is subtle on the nose Brick & Mortar 2018 Vin Rubis Pinot-Char- ­improve with age. Best from 2023. —J.G. at first, where aromas of boysenberry compote meet 90 donnay (Napa Valley). Made from 52% abv: 15.2% Price: $32 with oregano, marjoram and pencil shavings. Black ­Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay the way the pro- plum arises on the palate alongside minty herbs, ducer would ordinarily make a 100% Pinot Noir, Lion Ranch 2016 Two Lions Grenache-Syrah earthy mushroom and savory peppercorn flavors. this has a dark -like color, with tight car- 90 (Santa Clara Valley). This blend of 85% —M.K. bonic structure and freshness. Cranberry, red apple Grenache and 15% Syrah starts with gamy aromas abv: 14.8% Price: $50 and cherry mingle lightly across the palate without of spit-roasted boar, with a touch of wild berry and intrusion from oak or much tannin. Enjoy cold. rust. There is bright acidity to the sip, where that Frey 2017 Biodynamic Field Blend (Men- —V.B. gamy quality extends across flavors of red plum and 89 docino). A touch of wood smoke and a hint abv: 11.5% Price: $28 pomegranate. —M.K. of barbecue spices add interest to this ripe, fruity abv: 14.9% Price: $40 and smooth wine. It is medium bodied, scented with Cobble Creek 2017 Red (Paso Robles). The blackberries and laced with dark-chocolate and 90 nose on this organically grown wine is McClain Cellars 2016 Promise Keeper Reserve blueberry flavors. —J.G. pristine, with blackberry juice, smoked meat, dried 90 (Santa Ynez Valley). Floral aromas of laven- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 herbs and oak. The sip is layered with flavors of dark der, lilac and wisteria meet with dark-purple fruits chocolate, berries, loamy soil and light caramel on like açai on the clean nose of this blend. Snappy Gnarly Head 2017 1924 Double Black Lim- the finish. It’s surprisingly complex for the price. black-raspberry flavors lead into a chalky midpalate, 89 ited Edition Red Wine Blend (Lodi). For full Editors’ Choice. —M.K. making for a compelling sip of this heavier bodied review see page 16. Best Buy. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 wine. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $13 abv: 15.7% Price: $62 Crux 2014 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). Bay Mesa Del Sol 2013 Prima Rossa (Arroyo 90 leaf and eucalyptus aromas open this wine, Paradise Springs 2016 The Roshi (California). 89 Seco). This blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, San- a blend of 58% Grenache, 22% Mourvèdre, 18% 90 Intense blackberry-syrup, woody cedar and giovese and Grenache shows baked cherry, hibiscus, Syrah and 2% Petite Sirah. Juicy in black and red dried herb aromas show on the nose of this blend purple flowers, tarragon and root beer aromas on berry, it is well integrated, focused and complete, of 47% Petit Verdot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the nose. The palate is pleasant if simple and light, with full-bodied richness and supple texture, fin- 19% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot. The tannins with flavors of pomegranate, wild strawberry, plum ished in nutmeg and black pepper. —V.B. are grippy and firm, carrying more berry and damp and dried ginger. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 wood flavors and a solid hit of acid. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $59 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Firepit Red (San Sanan Redmond 2015 Gold Reserve (Santa 90 Francisco Bay). For full review see page 13. Pulchella 2016 Decorus (Paso Robles). Deep 89 Ynez Valley). Reserved on the nose at first, abv: 14.4% Price: $40 90 and dark aromas of black currant, purple the blend of all five Bordeaux varieties opens up flowers and a touch of smoke show on the nose of toward cooked black cherries and mint on the ele- this Syrah-driven blend (with 18% Grenache) from

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BUYINGGUIDE gant nose. The palate combines dried blackberry and acia teeter between delicate and syrupy on the of this blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Sangiovese and with roasted cedar and dried herb flavors. —M.K. nose of this blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Tempra- ­Grenache. The palate’s red-fruit tones are lifted by abv: 14.9% Price: $60 nillo and 10% Petite Sirah. The palate starts with dried herb flavors and the sour tinge of black-plum a hint of savory peppercorn and herb spice then skins. —M.K. Skinner 2016 Dry Diggings (El Dorado). becomes more juicy when cassis and acid rise into abv: 14.5% Price: $32 89 Touches of vanilla and toasted baguette the finish. —M.K. in the aroma give way to crisp but ripe cherry and abv: 15.3% Price: $50 Proulx 2016 Merveille (Paso Robles Willow raspberry flavors and a lively firm texture in this 87 Creek District). Damp earth, new leather and full-bodied wine. —J.G. Volker Eisele Family Estate 2015 Terzetto red-plum aromas show on the nose of this blend of abv: 14.6% Price: $32 88 (Chiles Valley). From the producer’s organic Grenache, Zinfandel, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon estate, this wine is equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. There’s a sour aspect to the pal- Two Roads 2015 Crossroad (Amador ­County). Cabernet Franc and Merlot, cofermented together. ate, where gamy flavors overtake the red-plum fruit. 89 This big and balanced wine blends an entic- Dusty plum and dark chocolate combine around a —M.K. ing oak perfume with ample black-fruit flavors and moderate structure of firm tannin, toasted oak and abv: 14.8% Price: $42 a firm structure of moderate tannins and good acid- coffee. —V.B. ity. It is medium to full bodied and has generous, abv: 14.4% Price: $75 Rancho Victoria 2015 Horseplay (Amador ripe flavors that don’t go over the top. —J.G. 87 County). This is a firm tight wine, with evi- abv: 14.9% Price: $39 Bridlewood 2016 G-S-M (Santa Ynez Valley). dent tannins and acidity to balance its red-cherry 87 There’s a strong gamy aroma on the nose of and cranberry flavors. Attractive but subtle oak Brick & Mortar 2018 Rouge (California). this bottling, along with dried plum skins, elder- ­accents add to its appeal. —J.G. 88 This can brings together Cabernet Franc, berry, tar and leather. The gamy aspect extends to abv: 14.7% Price: $26 ­Pinot Noir and Syrah from Clarksburg, Napa Valley the leathery sip, where dried meat flavors meet with and the Sonoma Coast. With a Gamay-like nose of tannic purple fruits. —M.K. Rotta 2016 Super (Paso Robles). Very bright gamy spice, it is both perfumed and tannic, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 87 ­extracted aromas of blackberry, plum sauce, developing over time to show darker denser notes cola and earth show on the nose of this blend of of blackberry. —V.B. Chloe 2017 No. 249 (North Coast). Thick 56% Zinfandel and 44% Cabernet Sauvignon. The abv: 12.5% Price: $8/375 ml 87 grapey aromas and rich jammy flavors give palate is extremely dense with flavors of blackberry this medium-bodied wine an über-fruity character, and anise, all a bit heavy. —M.K. Dante Robere 2016 Purgatorio Cabernet while soft acidity and mild tannins keep it gentle on abv: 15.7% Price: $60 88 Sauvignon-Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). the palate. —J.G. This 50-50 blend of Petite Sirah and Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Smokescreen 2016 The Chemist (Paso Sauvignon is huge in flavors and giant in structure, 87 Robles). Blackberry aromas are dusted boasting dense, concentrated blackberry and blue- Frey NV Organic Agriculturist (California). by prominent oregano, charred wood and sweet berry notes on a tight texture of firm tannins and 87 Ripe bright fruits in the aroma and flavor ­tobacco-leaf tones on the nose of this blend. Sour full body. It needs a few years aging or a juicy steak make this wine very forward and a little tangy, black-plum flavors meet with herbs and gamy meats to tame it down. Best after 2024. —J.G. showing red and black cherry along with raspberry on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $42 accents. Made without added sulfites, it’s full bod- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ied and has moderate tannins and good acidity that Darcie Kent Vineyards 2014 Choreography add to the mouthfeel. —J.G. Calcareous 2016 ZSM (Paso Robles). Aro- 88 (San Francisco Bay). This generous and abv: 14% Price: $13 86 mas of wood extract and black-cherry juice smoothly textured wine is full bodied but feels are quite ripe on the nose of this blend of 54% Zin- deceptively light, while splashing the palate with Heir Apparent 2016 Proprietary (Napa Valley). fandel, 25% Syrah and 21% Merlot. It’s rich and fresh blueberry and blackberry flavors. It was made 87 This is a blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Caber- nearly sweet on the palate, with strawberry, red- with a majority Merlot along with Cabernet Sauvi- net Sauvignon and 30% Petit Verdot that tastes of currant and herb flavors. —M.K. gnon and Cabernet Franc. —J.G. black licorice, currant and soy. A leathery texture abv: 14.7% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 tops a full-bodied concentrated thicket of tannin and oak. —V.B. Dog & Pony 2016 La Vaquera (California). Newman’s Own 2014 Common Good (Cali- abv: 14.6% Price: $75 86 This blend of 60% Tempranillo, 20% Cari- 88 fornia). This wine is slighly salty and savory gnane and 20% Grenache is very gamy, earthy and in aroma, darkly fruity in flavor and velvety in tex- Kirkland Signature 2015 Meritage (Ruther- leathery on the nose, with damp campfire aromas. ture. It coats the palate with ripe jammy blackberry 87 ford). This blends 52% Merlot with 40% It is slightly sour on the sip, with flavors of incense and blueberry flavors underlain with fine-grained Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% each of Petit Verdot and stick, black plum, pine needle and smoke. —M.K. tannins. It’s smooth and soft in texture.Best Buy. Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec. Juicy strawberry- abv: 13.25% Price: $30 —J.G. jam flavor dominates, wrapped in woody oak, dried abv: 13.5% Price: $13 herb and a touch of heat. —V.B. Ferrari-Carano 2016 Siena (Sonoma County). abv: 14.9% Price: $14 86 This blends 72% Sangiovese with 14% Orfila 2016 Full Fathom Five (San Pasqual Malbec, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petite 88 Valley). Strong aromas of dried earth, McClain Cellars 2016 Rudderless (Santa Ynez Sirah. The whole is robust in thick leathery black leather and red berries show on the nose of this 87 Valley). Roasted red cherry, ripe berries and fruit, smoky oak and a jammy quality that’s rounded blend of 40% , 40% Sangiovese, a hint of sweet cedar show on the nose of this red in structure. —V.B. 12% Syrah, 4% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Sauvi- blend. Berry-juice and red-cherry-compote flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $22 gnon. The palate is framed in chalky tannins and meet with more cedar on the palate. —M.K. shows very dry flavors of berry and vanilla. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $48 Heir Apparent 2016 Cellar Selection (Spring abv: 14.1% Price: $45 86 Mountain District). Blending 85% Merlot Mesa Del Sol 2014 Prima Rossa (Arroyo with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet The Blending Lab 2016 GTePS (Paso Robles). 87 Seco). Light and crisp aromas of pomegran- Franc, this is big and bold in flavor, with lots of 88 Deep, dark and purple aromas of açai, cassis ate, strawberry and rose buds show on the nose toasted oak to cradle the blackberry and cherry-jam

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 richness. Hints of sage and pencil accent it well. open the palate to softly integrated layers of bal- Orsi Family 2015 Sangiovese (Dry Creek —V.B. anced earthiness, blueberry and dark cherry. —V.B. 88 Valley). Big, brawny tannin and oak form abv: 14.5% Price: $125 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 a foundation beneath rustic red fruit, tobacco and beefsteak tomato in this estate wine, made from the Midnight 2015 Full Moon (Paso Robles). Jason-Stephens 2014 Swing Carménère Tuscan-native grape. —V.B. 86 Blackberry and wood aromas converge on 90 (Santa Clara Valley). For full review see abv: 13.8% Price: $28 the nose of this simple but pleasant bottling. Woody page 14. Editors’ Choice. flavors of leather meet with brighter berries and abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Wild Coyote 2017 Mourvèdre (Adelaida Dis- purple flowers on the palate, where the tannins are 86 trict). Extremely lush and extracted aromas a bit sticky. —M.K. Luna 2016 Winemaker’s Reserve Sangiovese of caramel, black plum sauce, kirsch and root beer abv: 15.5% Price: $24 90 (Napa Valley). The producer sources from are very aggressive on the ripe nose of this bottling. across the valley to make this 100% varietal wine, The palate is also heavy, with caramelized black Pacific Redwood NV Organic (California). rare in these parts. It opens in smoky oak, leather cherry, vanilla and leather flavors, finishing with a 86 Grapey, jammy and big in structure, this and cola as flavors of blackberry and tobacco come flash of acid. —M.K. full-bodied wine lays black fruits and raisins over to the fore. With moderate structure, it has a soft abv: 14.25% Price: $35 firm tannins. It tastes bold and big and dry, and roundness and appealing drinkability. —V.B. needs a big to pair with. Made with no added abv: 14.4% Price: $45 sulfites.Best Buy. —J.G. SWEET WINE abv: 13.9% Price: $9 Orfila 2016 Montepulciano (San Pasqual 90 Valley). Dried berries, black plum, savory Uptick Vineyards 2013 Late Harvest Syrah Muscardini 2015 Tesoro (Sonoma Valley). soy and a hint of iodine show on the nose of this 90 (Russian River Valley). This works as a 85 This is a blend of 43% Sangiovese, 29% bottling from San Diego County. The palate offers sweet, syrupy expression of blackberry and cherry, Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Syrah, the style burly violet and açai flavors yet remains very earthy, the fruit decadently layered and intense. Secondary and full bodied, with sizable tannin structure and ­elegant and dry. —M.K. flavors of raisin, cinnamon and chocolate under- moderate acidity. The fruit is syrupy black and abv: 13.4% Price: $45 score the inherent and intended richness. —V.B. raisiny, taking on the richness of Christmas cake. abv: 17.5% Price: $52/500 ml —V.B. Orsi Family 2014 Montepulciano (Dry Creek abv: 14.6% Price: $52 90 Valley). Rich, juicy and rustic in style, this wine delights with good acidity and structure, NEW YORK Wild Coyote 2017 House of Reds (Adelaida showing flavors of current, dried cherry and leather. 84 District). Extracted aromas of cherry cough The finish is a burst of Italian herb and deli meat. RIESLING syrup are lifted with hints of mint and caramel —V.B. on the nose of this blend of 36% Zinfandel, 33% abv: 13.9% Price: $36 Red Newt Cellars 2014 Tango Oaks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Tannat. It’s thick on 93 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Bright streaks of the palate with black-plum and grape seed flavors. Orsi Family 2015 Nebbiolo (Dry Creek Val- grapefruit peel, limestone and yellow apple per- —M.K. 90 ley). Made in a light, quaffable style, this fume the nose of this Riesling, sourced from a single abv: 14.2% Price: $35 small-production estate wine is dusty in tannin and vineyard on the lower-east side of Seneca Lake. The rustic in grilled meat and black pepper, its palate medium-bodied palate offers a graceful mix of white old school in integrated oak and high-tones of red blossom, lime zest and white-plum flavors, all sit- OTHER RED WINES fruit. —V.B. ting on a fine, powdery texture. These tones don’t abv: 13.8% Price: $38 skip a beat and linger on and on. —A.P. Vincent 2016 Family Reserve Petit Verdot abv: 12.1% Price: $NA 92 (Santa Ynez Valley). Very oaky and rich on Orsi Family 2015 Negroamaro (Dry Creek the nose, the wine begins with dense aromas of black 90 Valley). A rustic leathery nose leads to a Hermann J. Wiemer 2016 Late Harvest Estate cherry and vanilla. The palate is silky in texture, middle marked by firm, chalky tannins in this bold, 92 Bottled and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). ­offering flavors of roasted black cherry, loamy soil juicy wine. The flavors dance around dense dark This late-harvest Riesling shows a beguiling com- and vanilla cola, making for a dense, lush experience. cherry and sage, complementing each other well in plexity of pine, citrus oil and furniture polish on —M.K. a fine marriage of savory and fruity. —V.B. the nose. The juicy, sweet palate is concentrated abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $38 in flavors of dried mango and apricot, with saffron and ginger peppering the edges. The well-structured Orsi Family 2015 Barbera (Dry Creek Valley). Orsi Family 2015 Schioppettino (Dry Creek acidity maintains freshness and will keep it going 91 This tiny-production estate wine is bright 89 Valley). This is an unusual Italian variety for years to come. Drink though 2025. —A.P. and juicy, offering a soft rustic underpinning of lay- to find in California and yet here it succeeds in its abv: 8.6% Price: $25 ered tannin, rounded richness and high-toned acid- fresh bright nose of cherry, rose petal and earth, ity. It tastes of freshly picked strawberry and cherry, grown on the producer’s home ranch. Tight tannins Nathan K. 2016 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). with a lasting tartness that appeals. —V.B. support a lively palate of pomegranate and white 92 A pretty nose of white blossoms rides over abv: 13.7% Price: $28 pepper. —V.B. a core of green melon rind and lime zest. The palate abv: 13.7% Price: $36 is slick in feel yet textural and rounded, with tangy Orsi Family 2014 Sagrantino (Dry Creek Val- lemon-lime and stony flavors that persist on and on. 91 ley). For full review see page 13. Orsi Family 2014 Aglianico (Dry Creek Val- As it sits in the glass, more fruit emerges, delving abv: 13.8% Price: $34 88 ley). Mint and bay leaf open the door to into the crisp orchard-fruit spectrum. —A.P. a thick midpalate brimming in wild gamy notes, abv: 12.8% Price: $28 Preston 2016 Estate Carignane (Dry Creek leather and black pepper. Underlying acidity keeps 91 Valley). A 100% varietal wine, rare in these it fresh in the glass, finishing soft and succulently. Red Newt Cellars 2015 The Knoll Lahoma parts, this is made from organic and biodynamically —V.B. 92 Vineyards Riesling (Finger Lakes). Sourced farmed grapes. Floral wafts of violet and lavender abv: 13.8% Price: $36 from a vineyard on the west side of Seneca Lake, this semidry wine offers sunny aromas of canned

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BUYINGGUIDE peach, yellow blossoms and saffron on the nose. release Riesling. Semidry in style, it is succulent linear on the palate, driven by tart lime acidity yet The medium-bodied palate is luscious and creamy and juicy yet shows wonderful grip and tension broadened out by a fleshier flavor of yellow apple. It in feel, with a grip of dried apricot rind and focused to balance all those tropical- and stone-fruit fla- finishes dry and stony, with a lingering tonic note acidity providing a fine counterbalance. It offers vors. Drink now for immediate enjoyment. Editors’ that refreshes the palate for more. —A.P. excellent concentration, depth and balance. —A.P. Choice. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $21 abv: 13.2% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $16 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 Falling Man Boundary Breaks 2017 Dry No. 239 Riesling Atwater 2015 Navone Vineyards Riesling 90 ­Estate Bottled Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). 91 (Finger Lakes). A bright, effusive nose of 90 (Finger Lakes). Aromas of candied lemon A faint nose of citrus and stone moves to a more pulverized limestone, freshly zested lime and white peel, yellow blossoms and a slightly savory note expressive palate of yellow apple and lemon peels. It flowers offers a powerful start to this wine. The translate to the medium-bodied palate. This is is dry in style and linear in feel, with plenty of tang dry medium-bodied palate brings a complex mix lightweight and delicate in feel, with a well-honed and astringency driving the orchard-fruit and citrus of earthy, spicy and fruit elements, with flavors of mineral edge guiding the mix of citrus and white- flavors along. A stony grip of limestone lingers on crunchy yellow apple, lime, fresh ginger and tangy fruit flavors on the lingering finish.Editors’ Choice. the close. —A.P. wet stone pushing through. A textured and tangy —A.P. abv: 12.4% Price: $40 white-plum-skin note lingers on the finish.Editors’ abv: 11.4% Price: $16 Choice. —A.P. Red Newt Cellars 2016 Dry Riesling (Finger abv: 12.3% Price: $19 Boundary Breaks 2017 Reserve No.198 Ries- 90 Lakes). An effusive nose of crunchy yellow 90 ling (Finger Lakes). A focused nose of lime apple, lime zest and crushed stone carries to the Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 Evergreen Lek peel, lemongrass and parsley leads to the luscious medium-bodied palate. This is textured and taut in 91 Estate Bottled Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). semisweet palate. Persistent flavors of pineapple and feel, with a vitalizing current of lime pith and tonic Sourced from winery’s oldest Riesling site planted Gala apple are honed by bright shots of lemon-lime that lingers on the finish. —A.P. in 1999, this wine offers delicate aromas of fennel acidity. It finishes crisp and clean on a powdered abv: 13% Price: $NA bulb, citrus rind and white peach on the nose. A stone note. —A.P. smooth, rounded entry on the palate leads to fla- abv: 8.3% Price: $19 Silver Thread 2017 Doyle Fournier Vineyard vors of lemon peel and crunchy stone fruit, with 90 Riesling (Seneca Lake). This single-vine- firm acidity and a quinine tone providing power. A Heart & Hands 2017 Dry Riesling (Finger yard Riesling offers an expressive nose of lime zest, tangy mineral note lingers on the finish. Drink from 90 Lakes). A well-concentrated nose of apple white cherry and stone. Lithe in feel, the palate 2020. —A.P. peel, apricot, quince and apple blossom starts off brings tangy peach into the mix, with pulsing acid- abv: 12.2% Price: $30 the winery’s entry-level dry Riesling. The palate is ity pushing through to the lingering limestone finish. slick in feel, with vibrant juicy acidity that propels —A.P. Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 Upper Eastside flavors of fresh orchard fruit and lime. There’s a abv: 12.1% Price: $26 91 ­Estate Bottled Riesling (Finger Lakes). slight creaminess to the midpalate, with a stoniness Sourced from a two-acre vineyard on the eastern rising up on the finish. —A.P. Silver Thread 2017 Gridley Bluff Point Vine- slope of Keuka Lake, this dry Riesling is initially abv: 11.8% Price: $23 90 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). This off-dry closed on the nose, displaying aromas of blanched Riesling is sourced from a site on top of bluff that nuts and smoke. With time in the glass, it offers Heart & Hands 2017 Paul’s Legacy Riesling overlooks the eastern fork of Keuka Lake. The nose more expressive tones of pomelo and white blos- 90 (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a vineyard on offers diffused aromas of pineapple, peach and Gala som. There’s a gripping, limey presence to the pal- Skaneateles Lake, this offers bright aromas of apple, apple, with blossomy white flowers dancing in the ate that builds to a powerful stony finish. Good grip, citrus and melon on the nose. The well-honed pal- background. The medium-bodied palate follows suit balance and length show that there is more to come ate follows suit, with a cleansing crushed stone note with succulent tropical and orchard-fruit flavors in time. Best enjoyed after 2020. —A.P. riding throughout. This small-production offering that are honed by a tangy slick of lime-driven acid- abv: 12.1% Price: $30 brings a lot of refreshment and elegance. —A.P. ity. This is playful, fun and quite delicious. —A.P. abv: 11.1% Price: $28 abv: 10.9% Price: $26 Keuka Spring 2017 Semi-Sweet Riesling 91 (Finger­ Lakes). A well-concentrated nose of Hickory Hollow 2017 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Weis 2017 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Pris- fennel pollen, saffron, honey, white flowers and pine 90 This well-concentrated wine offers juicy 90 tine aromas of lime peel, yellow apple and gives this semisweet Riesling intense complexity. It flavors of orchard fruit and pineapple, with bits of crushed stone translate to the medium-bodied, is luscious and enveloping on the palate, built by pollen and stone. It is persistent and lengthy, driven dry palate. There’s ample fruit weight that helps juicy orchard- and tropical-fruit flavors, yet framed by laser-sharp acidity and broadened out by ample ­broaden out the texture, with a crisp line of acidity by tangy acidity and delicate tea-like astringency. fruit weight. This is an excellent off-dry entry-level to help wrangle it all together. —A.P. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. bottling from Winemaker Nathan Kendall. Editors’ abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 10% Price: $17 Choice. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Weis 2017 Semi Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Nathan K. 2017 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). 90 There’s strength to the aromas of pine- 91 Pristine aromas of steel, lemon and stone Hosmer 2017 Limited Release Riesling apple, orange zest and powdered limestone in this drive this textural off-dry Riesling. The entry to the 90 (Cayuga­ Lake). Aromas of citrus blossom, semidry Riesling. It shows ample concentration of medium-bodied palate is smooth and silky, broad- quince and tangerine start off this dry Riesling. fruit flavors on the palate, with a bright tangy min- ened out by juicy white-fruit flavors and honed by ­Integrated acidity frames the well-formed palate, eral note pushing through. It offers power and per- lime-driven acidity. There’s a delicate framing of with broad orchard-fruit and white-blossom flavors sistence, with a crisp finish that leaves you wanting white-tea-like astringency that keeps it all in check. extending nicely through the finish. —A.P. more. —A.P. —A.P. abv: 12.8% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 10.9% Price: $25 Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 Estate Bottled Damiani 2017 Davis Vineyard Dry Riesling Atwater 2015 Riesling (Finger Lakes). 90 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). There’s a nice 89 (Finger Lakes). A well-formed nose of peach 90 ­Sunny, bright aromas of peach, pineapple intensity of squeezed lemon, quince and crushed fuzz, apple peel and orange carry the nose. This and tangerine jump from the glass in this late-­ stone aromas on the nose of this wine. It is lithe and light-bodied Riesling offers clementine and peach

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 flavors on the palate, with a brisk zesty lemon note juicy fruit, balanced by bright acidity and a stony, with persistent shots of acidity keeping it going. A lingering on the finish. —A.P. mineral tone. —A.P. light mineral dusting marks the close. —A.P. abv: 11.8% Price: $22 abv: 11.5% Price: $26 abv: 11.7% Price: $18

Damiani 2017 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2017 Dry Riesling Lamoreaux Landing 2017 Round Rock Vine- 89 Lakes). A well-concentrated palate of 89 (Finger Lakes). A bright nose of stone fruit 88 yard Estate Bottled Riesling (Finger Lakes). peach, pineapple and tangerine gives a pleas- and citrus peel meets a delicate savory undertone. Diffused aromas of lime zest, white blossoms and ing roundness to the feel of this semidry Riesling. The medium-bodied palate is juicy in feel, driven ginger translate to the medium-bodied palate. It Bright lemon-laced acidity pushed through, offering by bright orchard-fruit flavors and honed by a tangy ­offers a fleshy fruit flavor that’s honed by pin-point a fine counterbalance to all that fruit. —A.P. lemon accent. This is persistent and mouthwater- acidity. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 ing, leaving you wanting more. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 11.8% Price: $15 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2017 Dry Riesling Shaw 2016 Road Block Reserve Riesling 89 (Finger­ Lakes). A delicate pome-fruit aroma Bellangelo 2017 Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). 88 (Finger Lakes). Aromas of sliced apples and meets a tinge of peach and passion fruit on the nose. 88 Aromas of parsley, white grape, orange and pears meld with an earthy undertone. The medium- While the palate is fruity and straightforward, it ginger start off this expressive wine. The medium- bodied, semidry palate offers rounded melon and offers well-honed flavors of apple and stone fruit, bodied palate is fleshy in feel, broadened out by orchard-fruit flavors, with a savory tone that helps with a refreshing line of acidity to balance. —A.P. peach and melon flavors. There’s a juicy line of acid- clean up the finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 ity keeping it bright and refreshing. —A.P. abv: 10.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.1% Price: $17 Hosmer 2017 Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Anthony Road 2014 Art Series Riesling 89 ­Aromas of ripe pineapple and melon start Boundary Breaks 2017 Ovid Line North 87 (Finger­ Lakes). Aromas of dried yellow off this semidry Riesling. It is juicy and rounded 88 Medium Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Delicate ­apple, pressed white flowers and furniture polish in feel, with a nice concentration of fruit flavors aromas of pineapple rind and passion fruit move carry the nose of this late-release semisweet Ries- that are honed by orange-laden acidity and delicate to the semisweet palate. This is juicy and soft in ling. It is creamy in feel, with a savory note that ­astringency. —A.P. appeal, with luscious peach and melon flavors that rises up on the midpalate. Tart lime peels push abv: 11.8% Price: $17 are honed by latent acidity. —A.P. through the finish. —A.P. abv: 11.3% Price: $15 abv: 10.8% Price: $28 Hosmer 2017 Single Wheel Patrician Verona 89 Vineyard Riesling (Cayuga Lake). This off- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2017 Reserve Riesling Bellangelo 2017 Morris Vineyard Riesling dry Riesling shows good presence on the medium- 88 (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a vineyard 87 (Seneca Lake). Aromas of tangerine, apple bodied palate, with persistent acidity driving along on the lower east side of Seneca Lake, this semidry and garden hose start off this single-vineyard wine. flavors of crunchy apple, peach and white blos- wine offers aromas of ripe peach and white flowers This is soft and juicy on the off-dry palate, deliver- soms. It shows good concentration and balanced on the nose. It is luscious and creamy on the palate, ing more orchard-fruit and orange flavors that finish refreshment. —A.P. driven by stone-fruit and mango flavors, and held in short, but are overall pleasing. —A.P. abv: 11.7% Price: $20 check by an integrated backbone of acidity. —A.P. abv: 11.9% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $25 Lamoreaux Landing 2017 Estate Bottled Red Dr. Konstantin Frank 2017 Semi-Dry Riesling 89 Oak Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Deli- Fox Run 2017 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). 87 (Finger Lakes). Crisp aromas of kiwi, cit- cate aromas of yellow flowers, ripe white plum and 88 Aromas of parsley and white grape transi- rus and lemongrass dot the nose of this semidry ginger carry the nose. This is broad and silky in feel, tion to a delicately off-dry palate of white cherry Riesling. It is soft and approachable on the palate, with gripping flavors of plum skin, apple and spice. and juicy apple. This is well structured and bal- held up by peach and tropical-fruit flavors that are —A.P. anced by a refreshing line of acidity and delicate honed by a crisp vein of acidity. —A.P. abv: 12.9% Price: $24 frame of astringency. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 11.9% Price: $18 Living Roots 2017 Linden Blossom Dry Ries- Fulkerson 2017 Reserve Riesling (Seneca 89 ling (Finger Lakes). Aromas of pine, white Heart & Hands 2017 Estate Riesling (Finger 87 Lake). Bright aromas of lime, apple peel and blossom and green melon dot the delicate nose. 88 Lakes). This entry-level Riesling is slick in creamy peach grace the nose. This is light-bodied There’s a slick feel to the well-concentrated palate, feel and light in concentration, with a green-melon and dry in style, with tart white-fruit flavors that with an integrated vein of acidity propping up fla- note up front. Tart peach and lime rise up on the lead to a delicate chalky finish. —A.P. vors of lime and underripe honeydew. —A.P. midpalate, leading to a creamy savory finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 11.7% Price: $20 abv: 11.6% Price: $33 Heart & Hands 2017 Seneca East Vineyard Silver Thread 2017 Dry Riesling (Finger Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 20 Rows Estate 87 Riesling (Finger Lakes). A reticent nose 89 Lakes). Steely lime and green melon aro- 88 Bottled Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Aromas gives way to a light-bodied palate of apple, peach mas are brisk and nicely concentrated on the nose. of crushed rock, melon rind and brisk lemon dot the and slightly tropical fruit flavors. Integrated acid- There’s good vibrancy to the palate, with slicks of nose of this Riesling sourced from a vineyard on the ity gives a delicate frame to this wine, with a mild wet stone and lime pushing along broader orchard- east side of Keuka Lake. The dry palate is rounded concentration of fruit flavors. —A.P. fruit flavors. A powdered stony grip lingers on the in feel, with white fruit sitting on a slightly creamy abv: 11.6% Price: $28 close. —A.P. core. It lacks a little in concentration but is overall abv: 12% Price: $18 pleasing and offers a well-balanced structure. —A.P. Hector Wine Company 2017 Dry Riesling abv: 11.8% Price: $30 87 (Seneca Lake). A mildly concentrated nose Silver Thread 2017 STV Estate Vineyard Ries- of pollen dust, yellow apple and orchard blossoms 89 ling (Seneca Lake). The nose of this wine Keuka Lake Vineyards 2017 Estate Bottled starts off this dry Riesling. There are fleshy peach is reminiscent of running through an orchard dur- 88 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). This and apple flavors on the palate, with a brisk finish ing harvest: fresh apples, pears and a cool autumn semidry Riesling offers crunchy apple and tart pine- that turns more citrus-driven. —A.P. breeze. It is off dry, with a pleasing concentration of apple flavors. It is well balanced and quite juicy, abv: 12.6% Price: $18

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BUYINGGUIDE

Lamoreaux Landing 2017 Estate Bottled Dry green apple starts off this straightforward wine. The finish brings a delicate pulverized stone texture and 87 Riesling (Finger Lakes). This light-bodied palate is thin in feel, driven by a sweet-tart mix of a cherry skin accent. —A.P. Riesling offers tart tones of peach and lemon-lime, peach and apple flavors. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 with white flowers in the back ground. It is slick and abv: 11% Price: $22 fleeting in feel, but what’s there is enjoyable and Dr. Konstantin Frank 2018 Dry Rosé of Caber- ­refreshing. —A.P. Lucas Vineyards 2017 Skillet Road Vineyard 88 net Franc (Finger Lakes). Pale-pink in color, abv: 12.4% Price: $15 83 Reserve Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). A very this single-variety rosé offers underripe strawberry savory nose of cinnamon-dusted nuts and muddled and raspberry aromas on the nose, with accents of Red Newt Cellars 2017 Circle Riesling (Finger apple starts off this Riesling that sees time in neu- wet stone and peppery spice. The light-bodied pal- 87 Lakes). Aromas of pollen and white blos- tral American oak. The palate is split in two: it’s ate is silken in feel and rounded out by tart red-fruit soms ride over a citrus-peel core. The semisweet creamy and soft yet shot through with a sharp line flavors that are bolstered by pulsing acidity. While palate is rounded and juicy in feel, with taut acidity of acidity. —A.P. lightly concentrated in flavor, it is quite enjoyable drawing it all in. This is straightforward, with its abv: 11% Price: $15 and well balanced. —A.P. ripe apple and juicy white-plum flavors, and sure to abv: 12.5% Price: $16 please many sweet Riesling lovers. —A.P. Sheldrake Point 2017 Beta Series Acid Head abv: 10.5% Price: $14 83 Riesling (Finger Lakes). An early harvest Hunt Country Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Franc yields a nose that’s driven by underripe tones of 87 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Aromas of crushed Three Brothers 2017 Dry 0 Degrees of Riesling gooseberry and lime peels. This is linear in profile herbs, peppery spice and strawberry grace the nose 87 (Finger Lakes). Faint aromas of apple and and sour in flavor, with tart acidity remaining domi- of this rosé. There’s a pleasing concentration of wild citrus move to the medium-bodied palate. This is nant but not wholly unappealing. —A.P. berry flavors on palate, balanced by a tangy wet light in flavor concentration but shows a pleasing abv: 12.7% Price: $22 stone note. The finish is brisk and clean. —A.P. balance between fresh fruit and juicy acidity. —A.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $15 ROSÉS OF CABERNET FRANC Wagner 2018 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc Three Brothers 2016 Pilot Series Ad Hoc Ries- 87 (Finger­ Lakes). Pale-peachy-pink in color, 87 ling (Finger Lakes). Aromas of wilted white Sheldrake Point 2018 Estate Bottled Dry Rosé this rosé offers a medium intensity of spiced straw- flowers, pollen and citrus show on the nose. The 91 (Finger Lakes). Pale peachy pink in color, this berry, melon and chamomile on the nose. The pal- semidry palate is decently concentrated in flavors of 100% Cabernet Franc rosé is fresh and blossomy ate is light in profile, with tart strawberry hull and melon, pear and a drizzle of honey, with ­integrated on the nose in a white-flower aroma, bolstered by lemon flavors. It’s brisk and clean, with a short yet acidity offering slight relief. —A.P. a pleasing concentration of strawberry, melon and enjoyable finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $22 wet stone. There’s good roundness and structure to abv: 12.3% Price: $15 the palate, with flavors that echo the nose. The fin- J.R. Dill 2017 Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). ish lingers decently long on floral and tart red-fruit Bellangelo 2018 Cabernet Franc Dry Rosé 86 Sharp aromas of lemon zest and tanger- tones. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. 85 (Finger Lakes). Aromas of baby powder, red- ine move to a straightforward palate. Tart flavors abv: 11.9% Price: $18 apple skin and wilted white flowers carry the nose of of apple and citrus sit on a slightly gritty texture, this delicate pink rosé. The palate feels disjointed in with an astringent lime-peel note marking the close. Anthony Road 2018 Rosé of Cabernet Franc ripe red-berry flavors and tart acidity, with a slightly —A.P. 90 (Finger Lakes). Pale salmon in the glass, sticky fruit tone lingering on the finish. —A.P. abv: 11.9% Price: $16 this rosé dazzles in well-concentrated aromas of abv: NA Price: $NA crushed stone, wild strawberry and peppery spice. Lakewood 2017 Riesling (Finger Lakes). A There’s a pleasing ripeness to the fruit on the pal- Hosmer 2018 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc 86 high-toned nose of pineapple and passion ate, with candied watermelon adding to the mix, 85 (Cayuga Lake). A beautiful shade of water­ fruit leads to the semidry palate. Persistent acid- yet it’s all honed by tangy elements of limestone melon-pink, this rosé starts off with notes of ity pushes throughout, with tangy peach and sweet and bright acidity. A soft framing of tannins lends crushed peppercorn and jalapeño. The palate is honey marking the close. —A.P. structure to the whole, providing enough heft for it equally green and herbaceous, with tangy slicks abv: 11.5% Price: $14 to hold up well at the dinner table. Editors’ Choice. of wet stone alongside flavors of strawberry and —A.P. ­watermelon. —A.P. Lucas Vineyards 2017 Estate Collection Dry abv: 13.3% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). A sharp nose of sliced lemons starts off this Riesling. The light-­ Lamoreaux Landing 2018 Dry Rosé (Finger bodied palate is tart and citrus-driven, giving it 89 Lakes). Delicate pink in color, this Cabernet ROSÉS OF PINOT NOIR a linear focus that makes it straightforward yet Franc rosé offers a boisterous white flower aroma ­refreshing. —A.P. on the nose that is supported by a solid core of Dr. Konstantin Frank 2018 Dry Pinot Noir abv: 11% Price: $15 strawberry and melon. There’s a soft roundness on 89 Rosé (Finger Lakes). A pale-pink hue and the palate that is filled out by juicy strawberry and bright aromas of strawberry, melon and dried Fulkerson 2017 Barrel Aged Riesling melon flavors, balanced by a gentle tang of acidity chamomile start this off. There’s good concentra- 85 (Seneca Lake). Aged for four months in and light astringency. —A.P. tion on the palate in juicy red-fruit flavors, with a Tequila barrels, this off-dry Riesling offers a bois- abv: 12.8% Price: $17 pleasing roundness that’s framed by bright acidity terous nose of apple blossom, peach and an earthy and delicate tannins. —A.P. undertone. The palate is rounded in feel, with soft Stony Lonesome 2018 Cabernet Franc Rosé abv: 13% Price: $16 acidity pushing along the orchard-fruit flavors to a 89 (Finger Lakes). Ballet-slipper-pink in color, brisk finish. —A.P. this rosé is bright and crisp on the nose in raspberry­ Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2018 Plane abv: 12% Price: $20 and cherry aromas that are laced with a vibrant 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé (Finger Lakes). mineral edge. The palate is equally energetic, show- Pale-peachy-pink in hue, this offers a bight nose Paumanok 2018 Dry Estate ing a solid concentration of cherry and berry flavors of peach, honeydew and white cherry. The palate 85 ­Bottled Riesling (North Fork of Long Island). held in check by a refreshing slick of acidity. The follows suit, showing a pleasing juicy roundness of A boisterous nose of candied lemon, peach and fruit flavors balance by bright, zesty acidity and a

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 tangy mineral element. It lingers on tart citrus and Living Roots 2017 Eastern Redbud Dry Rosé peach tones. —A.P. OTHER ROSÉS 85 (Finger Lakes). Aromas of yeast and melon abv: 12.2% Price: $15 mingle with a candied banana note on the nose of Buttonwood Grove 2018 Rosé (Finger this pale-peachy-pink rosé. It is rounded and soft Bellangelo NV Can Do Rosé (Finger Lakes). 89 Lakes). Aromas of candied watermelon, wet in feel on the palate, with a delicate ripe strawberry 88 This canned rosé offers a boisterous nose of stone and red berries show brightly on the nose. The flavor that yields to a pronounced savory yeasty ripe strawberry, watermelon and candied banana. palate follows suit, with a pleasing, rounded feel note on the finish. —A.P. There’s a light spritz on the palate, with a flavor that’s honed by juicy acidity. The fruit is brisk and abv: 12.6% Price: $20 reminiscent of a strawberry daiquiri. It cleans up pure, with a tangy wet stone element that ­lingers on nicely on the finish, making this off-dry rosé a solid the finish. —A.P. choice for summertime leisure. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 CHILE abv: NA Price: $6/250 ml Keuka Spring 2018 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). CHARDONNAY Billsboro 2018 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Rosé 89 This delicate rosé offers aromas of white 88 of Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Pale-salmon in cherry, orchard blossoms and tangerine peel. Viña del Pedregal 2017 Kidia Gran Reserva color, aromas of strawberry, melon and apple blos- There’s a soft silky entry to the palate, with inte- 87 Old Vines Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Casa- soms start off this well-formed wine. The light bod- grated flavors of tangy cherry, citrus and blossoms. blanca Valley). Peach and melon aromas are sup- ied palate is crisp and refreshing, with white-cherry This is textural and lightly gripping on the finish, ported by heavy but well-applied oak. A lightly and mineral sensations that lead to a quick shot of with a lingering savory note. —A.P. resiny palate is full and a touch flat, while this tastes perfumed grapefruit on the finish. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 oaky, melony and generic, with a mellow finish that abv: 13.1% Price: $18 suggests popcorn. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. Damiani 2018 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Pale- abv: 14% Price: $14 Glenora 2018 Dry Pinot Noir Rosé (Finger 88 pink in hue, this Pinot Noir-dominant rosé 87 Lakes). Bright aromas of dried rose, water­ is also blended with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Viña Maipo 2017 Vitral Reserva Chardonnay melon and strawberry grace the nose. There’s a White-cherry, melon and strawberry tones grace 86 (Chile). Oily aromas of popcorn and yellow mild fruit concentration on the palate, with a rose- the nose and palate. It is juicy and rounded in feel, apple feed into a standard, medium-bodied palate hip flavor rising up. While the balance wobbles a with a creamy, slightly savory finish. —A.P. with notable acidity. Flavors of apple, oak grain and little on the midpalate, it cleans up nicely come the abv: 12% Price: $18 vanilla are steady on a finish that doesn’t veer off finish. —A.P. course. Fetzer Vineyards. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Fox Run 2018 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 87 mas of crushed strawberry and cherry show Knapp 2018 Dry Pinot Noir Rosé (Finger moderate concentration on the nose of this rosé of Garces Silva 2017 Boya Chardonnay (Leyda 87 Lakes). Aromas of strawberry, peach and Lemberger and Pinot Noir. On the medium-bodied 85 Valley). Dusty aromas of wool mix with a red apple kick off this fruity rosé. Juicy red apple palate, tart red-fruit flavors shine alongside a brisk harder note of peach pit on this crisp and pointy and tart strawberry show on the palate, with bright wet slate tone. —A.P. coastal Chardonnay. Briny tropical fruit flavors fin- acidity giving a persistent feel to the nicely rounded abv: 13% Price: $18 ish lemony, tangy and angular, with acidity leading palate. It is short on the finish but overall quite the way. Vine Connections. —M.S. ­enjoyable. —A.P. Anthony Road 2018 Rosé of Lemberger abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 86 (Finger­ Lakes). Pale-salmon-pink, this brisk rosé offers a spicy raspberry aroma on the nose. A Santa Carolina 2017 Reserva de Familia Silver Thread 2018 STV Estate Vineyard Dry taut limestone flavor rises up on the palate, overpow- 85 Chardonnay (Itata Valley). Aromas of lano- 86 Rosé of Pinot Noir Rosé (Finger Lakes). Pale- ering the core of melon and strawberry tones. The lin, unbuttered popcorn and generic white fruits salmon-pink in color, this rosé starts off with a nose finish is slightly bitter. —A.P. amount to an amorphous nose. Same can be said of underripe strawberry and citrus, with a slight abv: 13% Price: $22 for the palate of this Itata Chardonnay, which is plastic note. The palate is light and juicy, driven by mild and flat. Vague flavors of melon and nectar- tart red berries and citrus. This is simplistic and Atwater 2018 Dry Rosé of Blaufränkisch ine include a note of dried cheese, while there’s straightforward. —A.P. 86 (Finger Lakes). Mild melon rind and tart not much to say about a quiet finish. Carolina Wine abv: 11.9% Price: $18 strawberry tones grace the nose and palate. This is Brands USA. —M.S. light and brisk in feel, with a slight chalky limestone abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Stony Lonesome 2017 Dry Pinot Noir Rosé grip. —A.P. 86 (Finger Lakes). A shy nose of crushed abv: 12.1% Price: $18 strawberry and melon meets a sheen of pollen. This SAUVIGNON BLANC is light bodied in feel and driven by tart red-fruit Bellangelo 2018 Merlot Dry Rosé (Seneca and citrus flavors. —A.P. 85 Lake). A well-formed nose of pink grape- Santa Carolina 2018 Carolina Reserva Sau- abv: 12% Price: $14 fruit, melon and strawberry starts off this easygo- 86 vignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Citrus, tropi- ing rosé. It is quite fruity in flavor, with a bit of a cal fruit and sea brine aromas open this lively SB Heron Hill 2018 Reserve Ingle Vineyard Pinot sugary midpalate. It ends off-dry on a bubblegum from Chile’s coast. A mix of green herbs, lychee and 84 Noir (Finger Lakes). This is quiet in inten- tone. —A.P. melon flavors stays fresh on a liquid-salad type of sity on the nose and palate. Muddled strawberry abv: 11.8% Price: $17 finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. and melon tones are overcome by a grip of tannins abv: 13% Price: $12 on the close. —A.P. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2018 Dry Rosé of Blau- abv: 12.6% Price: $26 85 fränkisch (Finger Lakes). Ballerina-pink in MontGras 2018 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc hue, this wine is reticent on the nose. The palate 85 (Leyda Valley). Lime and tropical fruit is light and brisk in feel, driven by tart citrus and aromas lead to a fleshy palate with adequate pop. red-fruit flavors. The concentration is light and the Salad-like flavors of lettuce dressed with citrus finish is short. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

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BUYINGGUIDE notes finish green and spicy, with some length. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. PEDRO XIMÉNEZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 13% Price: $14 Mayu 2018 Pedro Ximénez (Elqui Valley). A Viña del Pedregal 2016 Kidia Gran Reserva Viña Casablanca 2018 Cefiro Cool Reserve 84 straightforward nose gives nothing away 87 Old Vines Single Vineyard Cabernet Sau- 84 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Mild except for citrus. In the mouth, this dry Pedro vignon (Loncomilla Valley). Rubbery blackberry citrus and green herb aromas set up a plump pal- Ximénez from Elqui feels plump and medium in aromas come with milk chocolate and dusty earth ate. Melon and pyrazinic bell pepper flavors die off intensity, while generic citrus and green herb fla- notes. In the mouth, this is tight, raw and tough. quickly on a green finish. Call this basic and decent vors finish with a briny note. Vine Connections. Black fruit flavors are lightly herbal and touched up and that’s that. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. —M.S. by oaky char and chocolate. Titan Wines Selections. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $15 —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14 Viña del Pedregal 2018 Kidia Single Vineyard 84 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Loncomilla Val- PINOT NOIR Viña Requingua 2016 Toro de Piedra Gran ley). A punchy aromatic mix of terpenes, pyrazines, 86 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua passion fruit and tangerine includes notes of canned Undurraga 2015 Trama Pinot Noir (San Valley). Berry fruit and hand soap aromas are peas and bell pepper. A plump palate with medium 91 Antonio). There’s a lot of wildness in this standard fare. This feels choppy and high in acid, acidity offers green-leaning lime and grapefruit fla- medium-bodied Pinot Noir. Aromas of raspberry while forced oak is a big part of a flavor profile that vors that finish with notes of cactus pad and tar- and strawberry are spicy and suggest a warm field includes berry and plum fruits. A tight and rubbery ragon. Titan Wines Selections. —M.S. in summer. Herbal plum, tomato and currant flavors finish is smacking and tastes oaky. Puerto Viejo abv: 13% Price: $10 are saucy and spicy, while this finishes with grace Wines. —M.S. and complexity. Pinot Noir continues to evolve in abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Haras de Pirque 2018 Albaclara Sauvignon Chile; this one is excellent. Drink through 2025. 83 Blanc (Leyda Valley). There’s almost no Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ Choice. Calcu 2016 Reserva Especial Cabernet Sau- notable fruit to the nose, while this feels lean, tangy —M.S. 84 vignon (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of black and acidic. Bell pepper, green bean and lemon fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 olive, foresty dampness and herbaceous black fruits vors tap out on a short finish that tastes mostly tell you that this isn’t overly ripe. That take is con- of pyrazines and sour citrus. Ste. Michelle Wine Calyptra 2015 Vivendo Reserve Pinot Noir firmed on the palate, which is hard and sappy. Fla- Estates. —M.S. 88 (Cachapoal Valley). Spicy, earthy berry and vors of herbal blackberry, juniper berry and coffee abv: 12.5% Price: $10 red plum aromas are raw, tomatoey and far from finish minty and with a note of eucalyptus. Global overripe. In the mouth, this is creamy and full, even Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Undurraga 2018 Aliwen Reserva Sauvignon thick. A chocolaty oak flavor sits atop cherry and abv: 13.5% Price: $14 83 Blanc (San Antonio-Maipo Valley). Flabby, black plum notes, while this finishes with round- vegetal aromas are pyrazinic and oily. This feels ness and ease. Calyptra Wines USA. —M.S. Viña del Pedregal 2016 Kidia Single Vineyard chunky and tastes of vinaigrette and briny green abv: 14% Price: $19 82 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Loncomilla fruits, while an oily feeling finish remains briny. Valley). Stalky, herbaceous aromas of eucalyptus Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.S. Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2015 Tectonia Pinot and juniper are a loud and clear warning of what’s abv: NA Price: $12 87 Noir (Bío Bío Valley). Spicy, woody plum and coming, and that would be a tightly wound palate raspberry aromas open this full-bodied smacking with green tannins. Herbaceous, strangely oaky Viña del Pedregal 2018 Kidia Estate Bottled Pinot Noir that feels edgy and grabby. Raspberry, flavors are not persuasive. Titan Wines Selections. 83 Sauvignon Blanc (Loncomilla Valley). Heavy, plum and wood spice flavors combine into a saucy —M.S. sweaty aromas of pyrazines dominate a feline nose tasting whole, while this is rubbing and a bit rough abv: 14% Price: $10 with grit. An oily palate shows citric acidity but on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.S. little else, while this tastes of salty, briny grapefruit abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Rayun 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Val- and sea water. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. 81 ley). Soupy aromas of tomato leaf and com- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Casas del Bosque 2014 Pequeñas Produc- post are not fresh or inviting. This feels tomatoey, 85 ciones Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Saucy with sharp acidity. Green, weedy flavors of currant Carta Vieja 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Lonco- tomato paste aromas suggest pizza, while this full- and red plum hold no sway. Regal Wine Imports Inc. 82 milla Valley). Gritty, sweaty aromas of hay- bodied Pinot feels sticky, soupy and heavy. Savory —M.S. stack and citrus are not appealing. In the mouth, oak, tomatoey red fruit and herbal green flavors abv: 13% Price: $10 this is both chunky and acidic. Salty green fruit fla- result in a disjointed flavor profile, while this vors include a hint of tropicality prior to an empty remains saucy and jumbled on the finish. Southern finish that barely lingers. Frederick Wildman & Starz, Inc. —M.S. CARMENÈRE Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $6 Montes 2016 Purple Angel Carmenère (Col- Calyptra 2014 Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 94 chagua Valley). Ripe berry aromas are Bota Box 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Chile). A 84 (Cachapoal Valley). Black cherry, cassis and supported by notes of coffee, mocha, smoldering 80 candied nose with aromas of lemon-lime dry oak aromas lead to a jammy palate that skips charcoal and baking spices. A flush palate brings soda and kids’ is unconvincing and unin- over elegance. Tea, cranberry and plum flavors are a the fruit in quantity, while the flavors are all about viting. A bland palate holds sugary flavors of melon bit mulchy and green on the finish. At 15.5% alco- quality and emphasize blackened, spicy blackberry, and lychee that aren’t common to the variety. DFV hol, it shouldn’t shock anyone that this feels sappy. mocha and toast. Given that 2016 was a tough year Wines. —M.S. Calyptra Wines USA. —M.S. for red wines in Chile, this is a big success. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $23/3 L abv: 15.5% Price: $39 through 2025. Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $80

Undurraga 2016 T.H. Hunter Carme- 92 nère (Peumo). Ripe berry aromas are earthy

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 and show an olive note. In the mouth, this is alert this ends with density and overt oak cut by latent and marches with purpose. Spicy, herbal plum fla- tartaric acidity. Kobrand. —M.S. RED BLENDS vors do a slow fade on the finish, confirming that abv: 14.5% Price: $22 everything is in place on this strong performer from Emiliana 2014 Gê Los Robles a difficult El Niño vintage. Maritime Wine Trading Santa Carolina 2017 Carolina Reserva Carme- 94 Estate (Colchagua Valley). Spicy black fruit Collective. —M.S. 88 nère (Cachapoal Valley). For full review see aromas include saucy notes, hints of leather and a abv: 14% Price: $30 page 17. Best Buy. final but welcome whiff of tomato sauce. An excel- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 lent mouthfeel on a deep and strong palate frames Siegel 2016 Single Vineyard Los Lingues Car- ripe flavors of blackberry, prune, cassis and herbs. 91 menère (Colchagua Valley). Cool, herbal Viña Tarapacá 2017 Gran Reserva Carmenère A spicy tasting, firm finish is operating on multiple berry aromas give off complex notes of tobacco, 87 (Maipo Valley). Savory plum and berry aro- levels; drink through 2025. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. olive and eucalyptus, all of which are patented mas are stewed and a bit soupy. This is plump but abv: 14.5% Price: $90 for Chilean Carmenère. A fairly lush palate shows also shocked with tartaric acidity. Grapy flavors are depth and spicy, herbal plum and berry fruit flavors chocolaty but neither deep nor complex, while this Viña Requingua 2013 Laku The Final Blend before this mellows out on the finish with no burn finishes short and with grating tannins. Mundo- 93 (Curicó Valley). Black plum, blackberry, cof- or tannic bite. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. Vino–Winebow. —M.S. fee, earth and spice notes comprise an attractive abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 nose. Petit Verdot is the lead grape in this blend, which feels full and balanced. Black plum, cassis Casa Silva 2017 Los Lingues Vineyard Carme- and chocolate flavors finish smooth and even a bit 90 nère (Colchagua Valley). Herbal, leafy berry MERLOT elegant, not a word often used to describe Chilean aromas are spicy and common for this producer and wines. Drink through 2024. Puerto Viejo Wines. this subzone of Colchagua. A chewy, plump palate is Balduzzi 2017 Reserva Merlot (Maule Val- —M.S. ripe almost to the point of being sticky, while flavors 86 ley). Toasty oak gives this a minty, choco- abv: 14.9% Price: $50 of gamy meat, herbal plum, blackberry and black tea laty nose. Concentrated and a bit sappy in feel, this finish minty and spicy. Vine Connections. —M.S. Merlot tastes of black plum and chocolate along Clos Apalta 2015 Valle De Apalta (Colchagua abv: 14.5% Price: $20 with creamy oak. Juicy acidity on the finish helps 92 Valley). Blackened aromas of prune, licorice cut through the oak and sappiness. Vintage Wines and fennel announce a syrupy palate that’s sticky Casa Silva 2012 Microterroir de Los Lingues Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. and sappy in feel. Following the nose and palate, 90 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Casa Silva abv: 13.5% Price: $11 this tastes heavy, saturated and lactic. The 2015 makes some of the most varietal Carmenère in vintage was hot and dry in Chile, and at 15% abv Chile, and this special selection is even more loaded Santa Carolina 2017 Reserva Merlot (Colcha- this comes across as rich, hot and bulky—more so with cola, eucalyptus and minty blackberry aromas 85 gua Valley). Aromas of blackberry, cherry, than in prior years. Drink through 2024. Mundo- than other wines from Los Lingues. A pinched pal- cotton candy and vanilla are common and don’t Vino–Winebow. —M.S. ate is tight and clipped despite this being a mature offend. A screechy, high-acid palate yields tart black abv: 15% Price: $140 2012. Burnt oak, burnt coffee and herbal black fruit plum and cranberry flavors, while this is sappy and flavors finish with peppery spice, clove and the edgy on an herbal tasting finish. Carolina Wine Vik 2013 Red (Cachapoal Valley). Stewy inherent green essence always shown by wines from Brands USA. —M.S. 92 berry aromas are a touch soupy and herbal, this property. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 with green notes and a hint of raisin. In the mouth, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 this is saturated, chewy and dense. Baked berry, Viña Chocalan 2015 Reserva Merlot (Maipo black plum, cocoa and baking spice flavors finish Errazuriz 2016 Max Reserva Carmenère 85 Valley). Saucy aromas of tomato, green steady but a touch flat. This is an excellent Chilean 90 (Aconcagua Valley). Ripe black fruit aro- herbs, plum and asphalt form a rough opening, red by all standards, but one with limitations. Drink mas offer a balsamic side note, while an intense pal- while this Merlot feels dense and chewy. Earthy, through 2025. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. ate is hardwired and firm, with spiced plum, cherry herbal plum and coffee flavors finish full, with oak abv: 14% Price: $165 and peppery flavors. Heat and plenty of spice are and lasting herbal notes. Chocalan USA. —M.S. in prime time on an untamed finish. Vintus LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Haras de Pirque 2016 Albis (Maipo Valley). For —M.S. 91 full review see page 12. abv: NA Price: $21 Viña Los Boldos 2017 Momentos Reserva abv: 14% Price: $50 84 Merlot (Cachapoal Valley). Gritty aromas of Concha y Toro 2017 Serie Riberas Gran stalky red fruits are a touch horsey. A smacking hard Vik 2012 La Piu Belle (Cachapoal Valley). 88 Reserva Ribera del Cachapoal Carmenère palate with racy acidity is home to saucy flavors of 91 Plump aromas of raisin and baked black fruit (Peumo). Grassy, green aromas are a big part of the plum and tomato. A flush and full finish maintains announce a ripe wine from a warm year. A sappy nose, which also includes black fruits. This Carme- the same saucy flavor as before. Saranty Imports. palate with heft and thickness holds dark-fruit nère feels grabby and tannic, and thus tight. Grass, —M.S. flavors of black plum, black cherry, prune, vanilla alfalfa and black plum flavors finish with a wave abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and tobacco. On the finish, this sticks to ripe and of spicy oak. If you know the variety in its Chil- dense. Drink through 2022. Guarachi Wine Part- ean form, this should be familiar. Excelsior Wines. Santa Rita 2017 120 Reserva Especial Mer- ners. —M.S. —M.S. 83 lot (Central Valley). Stalky base aromas are abv: 14% Price: $100 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 topped with creamy oak and vanilla. A sticky, grabby palate doesn’t flow with ease, while this seems to Casa Donoso 2016 1810 Cabernet Sauvignon- Montes 2017 Alpha Carmenère (Colchagua have been force-fed some sketchy oak that has left 89 Carmenère (Maule Valley). Spiced plum and 88 Valley). Blueberry, blackberry, coffee and the candied. DFV Wines. —M.S. berry aromas are a bit rough, raw and herbaceous. A green herb aromas are stacked, as is an aggressive abv: 13% Price: $9 sappy palate is full in body and plodding, while this and sappy palate. This is a heavily oaked Carmenère blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère tastes that some might call masked. Caramelized berry fla- of blackberry, mint and chocolate. Spicy, herbal vors are matched by salty cured meat notes, while plum notes linger on a warm finish. Given the rainy difficulties of 2016 in Chile, this has to be viewed as

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BUYINGGUIDE a success. Kosher. Italy Wines & Food Distributor, heavily charred and smoky nose recedes to camp- organically farmed single vineyard Clayvin, but this Inc. —M.S. fire and barbecue with airing. This is one thick and vintage is currently in an awkward stage. Closed and abv: 13.5% Price: $43 sappy blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% fairly reductive, it needs plenty of time in Carmenère. Forceful spicy oak is in the lead, and it to reveal its tropical and lime fruit, vanilla, and Emiliana 2016 Coyam Made With Organic inserts wood and vanilla notes into peppery, herbal toasty salted-nut characters. The palate is highly 89 Grapes Los Robles Estate (Colchagua Val- black fruit flavors. Oak, mint and char dominate a textured with a rush of cheek-biting acidity. This ley). Raisiny berry aromas and gamy notes of animal heavy finish. Kobrand. —M.S. rich full-figured Chardonnay is meant for the long fur are not outright clean and inviting, however, this abv: 14.5% Price: $17 haul. Drink 2020–2029. Pacific Highway Wines & rainy vintage Syrah-led blend feels good, with little Spirits. —C.P. bite to the palate. Herbal black fruit flavors include Viña el Principal 2016 Calicanto (Maipo Val- abv: 13% Price: $50 a fair amount of oak spice, while this tastes minty 86 ley). A saucy, herbaceous nose smells of and ultimately a touch green on the finish. Banfi juniper, clove and tomato leaf. In the mouth, this Vintners. —M.S. rainy vintage Cabernet blend is edgy feeling. Desic- PINOT GRIGIO/GRIS abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cated berry fruit flavors include notes of balsamic vinegar and green herbs, while the finish is short Brancott 2018 Flight Song Pinot Grigio Multi 2017 Best Taste Cabernet Sauvignon- in both length and complexity. Regal Wine Imports 89 (Marlborough). Brancott advertises this 89 Carmenère (Central Valley). Herbal berry Inc. —M.S. low-alcohol wine as 20% lower in calories. While aromas are spicy and a touch stewed. A huge pal- abv: 14% Price: $25 the marketing feels gimmicky, their Pinot Grigio ate with pulpy weight and rough tannins delivers succeeds far better than the previous vintage’s Sau- lightly burnt flavors of black fruits on top of an vignon Blanc. It should really be termed Pinot Gris, herbal undercurrent. Herbal tea and coffee notes NEW ZEALAND for this pink-tinged bottling offers heady aromat- settle on a confirming finish. This is 50% each of ics closer to Alsace than Italy in style. A perfume Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère. Pura Wines. CHARDONNAY of ­lychees, lime leaf, Asian pear, peach and honey- —M.S. suckle make up the nose, while the palate finds a abv: 14% Price: $25 Mt. Beautiful 2017 Chardonnay (North Canter- balance between creamy texture and lifted acidity. 91 bury). Somewhere between honey and lemon This crowd-pleasing white would be happy beside Casa Donoso 2017 Sucesor Romano Lim- in color, this Chardonnay shows off much of what spicy cuisine. Pernod Ricard. Best Buy. —C.P. 88 ited Release (Maule Valley). Romano is an is so good about the North Canterbury region. The abv: 9% Price: $14 ancient grape barely seen or used in Chile, so this nose is sunny and bright with tropical and stone is special in that sense. Dry, earthy aromas of cumin fruit backed by nutty, toasty and floral aromas. Monowai 2018 Pinot Gris (Hawke’s Bay). A and forest floor are interesting and unusual, while The medium-bodied palate is focused with chalky 89 highly perfumed example of Pinot Gris from this feels tight and strangled. Narrow cherry and textured but slippery fruit weight. Lifted acidity Hawke’s Bay, this wine leads with aromas of ripe plum flavors are backed by a grating, raw finish. and bright fruit add tingly tangy character. Drink pear, pineapple, flecks of honey and floral notes. The Kosher. Italy Wines & Food Distributor, Inc. —M.S. over the next few years on its own or with food. palate is textural, creamy but with bright acidity, abv: 13% Price: $34 Mt. Beautiful USA. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. and a tangy fruity finish. World Traveler Imports, abv: 13% Price: $23 LLC. —C.P. Loma Larga 2017 Lomas del Valle Quinteto abv: 13% Price: $15 88 (Casablanca Valley). A savory, meaty nose Peregrine 2016 Chardonnay (Central Otago). revolves around stewed black fruit and eucalyptus 91 Peregrine’s wines always have a certain Sherwood Estate 2017 Sherwood Pinot Gris aromas. In the mouth, this multigrape cool-climate class and age-worthiness about them and their 89 (Waipara Valley). From the Waipara Valley­ blend feels sappy and constricted. Salty, beefy fla- Chard doesn’t disappoint. A nose of quince, peach just north of Christchurch, this medium-gold- vors of jerky and jammy berry fruits finish big, hot and tangerine is backed by soft nutty oak aromas, hued Pinot Gris is a solid example of a variety and and fleshy. W. Direct. —M.S. while the creamy-textured palate is lifted by tangy style New Zealand increasing excels at. The nose is abv: 14.5% Price: $30 mouthwatering acidity. The oak is present but not perfumed and honeyed with notes of ripe apples, overwhelming. A long juicy tangerine finish makes it pears and white-flower blossoms. The mouthfeel San Pedro 2016 Sideral (Cachapoal Valley). easy to take another sip. Drink now–2027. Vineyard is viscous, less about the fruit and more about the 88 Roasted aromas of mulchy berry and com- Brands. —C.P. texture, but kept fresh by a lifted line of acidity. A post announce a blended wine with some freshness abv: 13.5% Price: $37 slightly bitter peach-pit note appears at the finish and clarity issues. A jammy, fleshy palate is chunky but should all but disappear when paired with food. in feel, with herbal black fruit flavors and chocolaty Te Mata 2017 Elston Chardonnay (Hawke’s Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. oak. Blackberry flavors shift to prune on a sappy 90 Bay). A fairly tricky vintage, the 2017 Char- abv: 13% Price: $17 feeling finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. donnay is less full throttle and ripe than in previous —M.S. years, but its restraint offers poise and age-worthi- Tablelands 2017 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ness. Soft pineapple and melon aromas sit alongside 88 Pinot Gris makes a refreshing change from vegetal green-pepper ones, along with white spice the oceans of Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough pro- Ventisquero 2017 Grey Glacier Single Block and toasty vanillin oak. The acidity is what’s partic- duces, and the winemakers make a clear style dis- 88 Garnacha-Cariñena-Mataro (Colchagua Val- ularly noticeable on this vintage, but it’s balanced tinction between the two. This version of PG is a good ley). Raspberry and red plum aromas are subdued. by chalky texture and fruit weight. Medium bodied, example of the former, offering aromas and flavors of A tight, almost closed palate is tannic and narrow, the oak is somewhat on show but mostly in a sup- lime, ripe pear and other freshly picked orchard fruit. while this Mediterranean-style blend tastes of porting rather than leading role. Drink 2021–2029. There’s some white spice on the palate along with a plum, tomato and herbs prior to a saucy finish with Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. creamy texture. The fruit drops out a bit towards the hard tannins. The more air you can give this, the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA finish, but overall this is a solid and varietally expres- better it will show. Austral Wines. —M.S. sive drop. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $23 Giesen 2015 Single Vineyard Clayvin The abv: 12.5% Price: $17 89 Fuder Series Chardonnay (Marlborough). Montes 2017 Limited Selection Cabernet The Chardonnay is normally one of the strongest 87 Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). A offerings from Giesen’s range of wines from the

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 is slippery, dry, crisp and fruity. Knock it back on a but this does blow off with time in glass. The pal- SAUVIGNON BLANC warm summer’s day. Mountain Peoples Wine. Best ate is also affected by reduction, causing it to feel Buy. —C.P. both heavy in weight yet impaled with a sharp knife Clos Henri 2018 Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13% Price: $11 of acidity. Then, on the finish, a feeling of sweetness 90 (Marlborough). Pale-gold in color, this Sau- creeps in. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. vignon is less brightly fruited and more vegetal than Wither Hills 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- —C.P. in previous years, but still offers an attractive nose 88 ough). This wine’s perfumed yet delicate abv: 12.5% Price: $NA of gooseberries, lime leaf, tangerine, grass and flo- nose of lime, stone fruit, florals and tomato leaf rals. The palate is well balanced, with a viscous tex- leads into a palate that is chalky yet slippery, with Lagoon Hill 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- ture that’s cut through by pristine acidity and tangy what feels like a slight bit of residual sugar balanced 86 ough). A straightforward drop from a tough fruit—a refreshing and textural drop at an afford- by zingy acidity and more citrus and floral flavors. vintage in Marlborough, this opens with oniony aro- able price. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —C.P. ­Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —C.P. mas that give way to more vegetal ones like grass abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $NA and bell pepper. Lemon-lime and tropical fruit are in the mix too. Crisp acidity balances a chalky tex- Clos Henri 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Echo Bay 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- ture and citrus and dried herbal flavors on the pal- 90 ough). In line with this biodynamic win- 87 ough). A classic combo of pink grapefruit, ate. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. ery’s attempts to reflect site and vintage as truly as lime and fresh green grass makes up the nose of abv: 13% Price: $18 possible, the 2017 Sauvignon is clearly from a cool this wine, while the palate is chalky textured, with year. Medium-gold in hue, the restrained nose is a prickly acidity. Crunchy tart citrus fruit ends pithy Saint Clair 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- quiet medley of citrus, tomato leaf, flint, salted nuts and a touch bitter. Trinchero Family Estates. —C.P. 86 ough). A perfumed nose of lime, tropical and toast, thanks to barrel maturation for a portion abv: 13% Price: $18 fruit, white blossoms and hints of grass and snow of the fruit. The palate is highly textural. There’s peas leads on this Sauvignon. A creamy texture adds very little fruit here (for a brighter, more approach- Member’s Mark 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- interest on the palate but it’s not enough to make up able SB this vintage, try this producer’s Petit Clos 87 borough). This dry, refreshing and affordable for the lack of flavor and short finish, leaving this wine), and the finish feels like biting into a grape Sauvignon starts out a tad reductive with oniony wine feeling a little flat and characterless. E. & J. seed. But balance and complexity promises more aromas. Lemon, lime, stone fruit and a touch of salt Gallo. —C.P. interest in the coming years. Drink 2020–2025. follow. The palate is chalky in texture and citrus abv: 13% Price: $28 Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —C.P. right to the end. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 —C.P. Shelter Bay 2018 Stich Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13% Price: $7 86 (Marlborough). Lemon, guava and pineap- Mt. Beautiful 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (North ple rind lead the way here, along with some grassy 90 Canterbury). Medium-gold in color, this Monowai 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke’s pungency. The palate comes with citrusy zingy acid- North Canterbury Sauvignon leads with a heady 87 Bay). A fruity nose of peaches, tropical fruit ity and a slightly creamy texture, with a lemony fin- nose of guava, lychee, and pineapple, with soft aro- and lychees­ on this Hawke’s Bay wine leaves a little ish. This is a simple but fairly well-balanced drop. mas of grass and tomato leaf. There’s a nice play on space for white-pepper-spice notes but none for Gonzalez Byass USA. —C.P. the palate between texture and prickly acidity, with the green-vegetal characters more typically found abv: 13% Price: $15 plenty of tropical fruit and a long finish. It makes for in South Island­ Sauvignons. The palate balances an apt pairing with summery cuisine. Mt. Beautiful the fruitiness with crisp acidity. Stone-fruit flavors Sileni 2018 Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc USA. —C.P. close things out. This is a straightforward but bal- 86 (Marlborough). This wine’s fragrant nose of abv: 14% Price: $17 anced drop. World Traveler Imports, LLC. —C.P. lychees, pineapple rind and lemon leads to a pal- abv: 12% Price: $15 ate that is textured with a citrusy zip and a slightly Framingham 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- bitter finish. It feels a little overworked and under- 88 borough). Framingham’s whites always Wither Hills 2017 Single Vineyard Rarangi whelming. Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. have a strong textural element to them, thanks in 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). There’s a abv: 12.5% Price: $13 part to the use of a little skin and barrel bit of salt-tinged reduction to start, but there’s also aging in oak and acacia. Straightforward but likable, a fair lick of waxy lime, grapefruit and green bell Sileni 2018 Straits Reserve Sauvignon Blanc their latest Sauvignon is a medley of bright grape- pepper aromas. The palate also combines the effects 86 (Marlborough). This wine starts with the fruit, pineapple, and grass, and snow pea characters, of reduction (which makes the wine feel some- classic Marlborough SB combo of ripe fruit and veg ­ensconced in a creamy texture and lifted by crunchy what closed in on itself) with citrusy pithy white- in the form of melons, peaches, snow peas and bell acidity and a long, fruit-filled finish. Evaton, Inc. spice flavors, a creamy texture and lifted acidity—a peppers, but things fall apart on the palate where —C.P. straightforward drop. Distinguished Vineyards & the texture is watery and a touch spritzy. The acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Wine Partners. —C.P. ity feels on the underripe side and the fruit a touch abv: 13% Price: $NA sour, compensated in part by what feels like just a Greyrock 2018 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc bit of residual sugar. Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. 88 (Marlborough). This clean fruity Sauvi- Greyrock 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 gnon is a classic combo of tropical and citrus fruits 86 ough). A straightforward Sauvignon from a and grass characters, buoyed by crisp acidity and difficult vintage in Marlborough, this offers aromas Brancott 2018 B Letter Series Estate Sauvi- a creamy texture. Uncomplicated but refreshing. of melon, guava, peach and jalapeño peppers. On 85 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Unfortunately, Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. the palate, crunchy acidity lifts what feels like a this wine does not seem to have weathered the abv: 12.5% Price: $17 touch of residual sugar and slippery fruit weight. tough 2018 vintage well. It’s highly aromatic, even Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. by Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc standards, but Kawakawa 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson). abv: 12% Price: $13 it feels synthetic and reductive, with associated 88 From Nelson, a wine region just west of onion, rubber and salt aromas sitting over ripe Marlborough at the top of the South Island, this is Huntaway Reserve 2017 Sauvignon Blanc pineapple, tomato leaf and green bell pepper notes. textbook New Zealand Sauvignon, in all its refresh- 86 (Marlborough). Stone-fruit, citrus, snow On the slippery palate, sharp-edged acidity feels a ment and fruitiness. It bursts with citrus, pine­ pea and a white-flower-blossom aromas are some- apple, grass, florals and a touch of salt. The palate what covered in a veil of reductive, oniony scents,

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BUYINGGUIDE bit underripe and green-pepper notes dominate, the fruit and herbal and mineral nuances. Balanced and is a little apparent too, particularly on the finish. fruit barely detectable. Pernod Ricard. —C.P. elegant with a long finish, this is drinking well now Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 but should cellar nicely until 2027. Monsieur Touton abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Selection Ltd. —C.P. Grove Mill 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Wairau abv: 14% Price: $32 Waipara Springs 2017 Pinot Noir (Waipara 85 Valley).­ This vegetal and pungent wine 88 Valley). A dusty-cherry hue, this is a spicy shows slightly sweaty aromas of onion, grass and Mt. Beautiful 2016 Pinot Noir (North Canter- and oaky expression of Pinot, bursting with black tomato leaf, with some citrus and tropical fruit. The 91 bury). This North Canterbury Pinot neatly pepper, thyme, anise, stalks and stones, all just as palate presents similar sweaty, vegetal flavors, with demonstrates how a little extra time in bottle can prominent (if not more so) than the red-currant slightly sour fruit amidst a slippery texture and yield beautiful results. Notes of damp earth, meat, fruit. The oak and stalky characters are prominent prickly acidity. Foley Family Wines. —C.P. florals and savory herbal tonic nuances add com- on the palate too, and the tangy fruit gets slightly abv: 13% Price: $15 plexity to the black-cherry and wild-strawberry overwhelmed. Tannins are a little astringent and fruit. While the oak shows a touch on the palate, the cool climate of this region and vintage is on Mohua 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- it’s fairly well balanced by plump fruit and savory, display. It’s a style some will love and others won’t. 85 ough). This Sauvignon is a little reductive herb-flecked tannins. This is a singular Pinot that American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. and oniony at first but it’s also highly perfumed and expresses a sense of place. Drink now through 2027. abv: 13% Price: $20 floral, with lime leaf and blossoms alongside peach Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P. and lychee fruit. The palate, however, doesn’t hold abv: 13.5% Price: $28 The Better Half 2018 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- together as well; 2018 made for an even trickier vin- 87 ough). This wine’s straightforward nose of tage than 2017, thanks mainly to the presence of two Clos Henri 2018 Petit Clos Pinot Noir (Marl- red fruit and savory spice leads directly to a light- ex-tropical cyclones right at harvest. It’s slightly 90 borough). Perhaps the quietest expression to medium-weighted palate of grainy textured tan- spritzy with bracing acidity and fruit that veers on to date of this wine, some swirling in glass brings nins and crunchy tart red-berry fruit. The savory the sour side, feeling a little overworked and under- forth delicate aromas like rose petals, strawber- finish ends a little abruptly. Maritime Wine Trading ripe. Vineyard Brands. —C.P. ries, cherries, white spice, wild herbs and a warm ­Collective. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $16 earth character. The palate is elegant and textured, abv: 13% Price: $13 with tangy fruit and tannins that feel a little on Spy Valley 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- the astringent side. As usual, the Petit Clos range Vinterra 2017 Pinot Noir (Waipara Valley). 85 ough). This wine is showing a lot of reduc- of wines offers stellar value from a top biodynamic 87 This wine, from the Waipara Valley, north of tion at the moment, blanketed in yeasty, sweaty Marlborough producer. Monsieur Touton Selection Christchurch, starts with quiet aromas of raspber- onion and salt notes. Beneath this lies vegetal notes Ltd. —C.P. ries, florals and peppery spice. The palate is tightly like green bell pepper and snow pea, along with cit- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wound, with grainy tannins and tangy, if slightly rusy touches like lemon, lime and grapefruit. The sour, fruit. A bitterness creeps in at the finish but palate is slippery, sliced through with searing acidity Loveblock 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). overall this is a solid if not terribly exciting cool- and crisp citrus flavors. The finish is slightly bitter. 90 While this organically farmed Pinot isn’t as climate Pinot. Kysela Père et Fils. —C.P. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —C.P. fruit forward as previous vintages, it makes up for it abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 12.8% Price: $20 with an abundance of fresh herbs: thyme, rosemary and fennel seeds, with some leafy secondary char- Sileni 2017 Plateau Reserve Pinot Noir Blicks Lane 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- acters and red-berry fruit in the mix too. Mouth- 86 (Hawke’s Bay). This starts on the soapy, 84 ough). Potent reductive notes dominate on watering acidity and crunchy fruit are balanced synthetic side, but these qualities do blow off some the nose of the wine. Beneath the associated sul- by sandy tannins. Drink this light-bodied bottle a with time in glass. There’s plenty of cherry fruit furic onion and Band-Aid characters can be found little chilled, with a summer meal seasoned with here too, along with floral, orange rind, Middle tropical-fruit characters. Things are equally unbal- the same freshly plucked herbs as the nose suggests. Eastern spice and dusty oak aromas. Gritty in tex- anced on the palate where the acidity feels sharp Terlato Wines International. —C.P. ture and medium in weight, the palate tastes of and underripe and the reductiveness shuts down abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tangy fruit and oak and finishes a touch bitter. This the fruit flavors. Vine Street Imports. —C.P. sturdy wine lacks some of the verve and brightness abv: 13% Price: $20 Neudorf 2014 Tom’s Block Pinot Noir of the variety. ­Prestige Beverage Group. —C.P. 89 (Nelson).­ Showing a nice bit of bottle abv: NA Price: $20 Brancott 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc age, this Pinot, from the Nelson region at the top 83 (Marlborough). This reductive Sauvignon is of the South Island, offers up soft attractive red- Cottesbrook 2015 Pinot Noir (Canterbury). sweaty and feline, with buttery, vegetal, grassy and berry aromas along with dried flowers and savory 85 Pale cherry in color, this over five-year-old citrusy aromas. The palate is oddly spritzy, with herbal notes. After some time in glass, the fruit Pinot already seems tired, with fading red-berry sharp acidity, a creamy texture and a sour finish. feels sweeter, almost confected. The body is light to fruit and a volatility that flattens rather than lifts. Pernod Ricard. —C.P. medium, with a silky texture and a soft grip of tan- Savory dried herbs and oak nuances are there abv: 13% Price: $14 nins but there’s a bitter note that’s a little distract- too. Things don’t improve on the palate, unfortu- ing and feeling of flatness. There’s complexity too, nately, which feels a little sour, bitter and textur- however, and this should continue to age for five ally watery, the oak juts out on the finish. Saranty PINOT NOIR years or so. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —C.P. Imports. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $18 Clos Henri 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 93 This French-owned and biodynamically Wither Hills 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Monowai 2017 Pinot Noir (Hawke’s Bay). A made wine is starting to show a little bottle age, but 89 Red cherry and raspberry fruit present 85 dollop of funk fills the nose at the start of in all the best ways. The red-berry fruit is still pri- themselves as quiet but dominant on this Marlbor- this wine. The sweaty saddle notes do dissipate a mary, but is accompanied by wisps of dried flowers ough Pinot. Behind them sit ground black pepper, little, revealing slightly soapy red- and black-berry and freshly ground savory herbs. There’s a touch of earthy savory spice and slight mushroomy notes. On fruit, anise and spice. Chalky in texture, wound vanilla too and an underlying stony earthy miner- the medium weighted palate, tart plump cherry fruit firmly by drying tannins and finishing a little on ality. Texturally, it’s silky, gripped gently by savory and a grip of savory, slightly bitter tannins lead. Oak the bitter side, this wine wants for much of the tannins that help structure the still primary red

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 vibrancy and freshness of the variety. World Trav- hol doesn’t appear overly high, there’s a warm bit- Lagar de Indra 2018 Albariño (Rías Baixas). eler Imports, LLC. —C.P. ter feeling to the palate, where a thick coat of dry- 88 The clean nose is fairly neutral except for abv: 13% Price: $17 ing tannins nearly overwhelms the ripe fruit. Give hints of apple and stone fruits, while a round and this time to settle and then give it a lengthy decant. healthy palate shows moderately bright acidity, Spy Valley 2016 Handpicked Single Estate Drink 2022–2039. NZ Wine Home. —C.P. along with flavors of melon and lime. Concluding 85 ­Pinot Noir (Marlborough). There’s a syn- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA the package is a comfortable finish with hints of thetic quality about this wine, like perfumed soap, apple, citrus and stone fruits. Assa Imports. —M.S. candied red berries and a potpourri bowl. Sniff abv: 13.5% Price: $17 deeper and there’s a slightly off-putting vegetal RED BLENDS character lurking, along with a dusty oak note. On Val do Sosego 2018 Albariño (Rías Baixas). the palate, the acidity is angular and the fruit a little Te Mata 2017 Coleraine (Hawke’s Bay). The 88 Dusty woolly aromas of lanolin blend with tough. Tannins are sandy in texture and supportive, 93 latest vintage of Te Mata’s top red is back pineapple to form the nose on this plump Albariño, but overall this lacks balance and interest. Broad- up to the quality of vintages past. This is wholly a with modest acidity. Melony flavors are nice and bent Selections, Inc. —C.P. wine for cellaring so right now the nose feels tight basic, with a hint of pear. On the finish, this is mild abv: 13% Price: $30 and a little closed. It still offers some cassis, black before falling off. Saranty Imports. —M.S. licorice, bay leaf, ground black pepper and graphite abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Wairau River 2017 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). notes, though. On the palate, chalky tight-grained 84 From the first of two consecutive difficult tannins knot firmly­ around the tongue. But all is in Morgadío 2018 Legado del Conde Albariño vintages in Marlborough, this wine is initially quite place for this wine to develop into an elegant and 87 (Rías Baixas). Leesy yeasty flavors of flowery closed in on itself. With vigorous swirling, quiet yet classy drop. Just give it time. Drink 2021–3034 white fruits, white bread and vanilla lead to a plump somewhat synthetic notes of ripe red fruit, vanillin and likely beyond. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Cellar and round palate with a melony mouthfeel. Melon oak, and a soapy nondescript spicy character eke out. Selection. —C.P. and mild green-herb flavors finish steady but not Things unfortunately don’t improve much on the abv: 13% Price: $NA steely or tight. Classical Wines. —M.S. palate, which is sour and unbalanced with angular abv: 12.5% Price: $18 acidity. A grainy bitter finish lingers. Terlato Wines Te Mata 2017 Awatea Cabernets-Merlot International. —C.P. 92 (Hawke’s Bay). Te Mata’s Awatea red blend Bodegas Eidosela 2018 Ethereo Albariño abv: 13.5% Price: $22 costs less than half the price of the Coleraine and 86 (Rías Baixas). Briny white-fruit aromas yet is cut from a very similar cloth. With a little less suggest wheat and straw more than bright clean Cabernet Sauvignon and more Merlot than the ­latter, fruit. A chunky palate is low on lift but not outright CABERNET SAUVIGNON along with a touch of Cabernet Franc, it’s more red flat, while this tastes yeasty, with apple and green- fruited on the nose, weaving between crushed flower banana notes. A hint of bitterness appears on the Villa Maria 2013 Nagkiriri The Gravels Cab- petals, herbal tonic, vanilla and graphite nuances. finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Hawke’s Bay). This is There’s a softness here that’s apparent on the pal- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 the first release of this premium red from the 2013 ate too, where a silky texture belies the power of vintage, considered one of the best in Hawke’s Bay. tight-grained herbaceous tannins. More immediately Even with some bottle age, this inky-hued wine approachable than the Coleraine, it could neverthe- RIOJA is still massive. The nose is a rich combo of ripe less cellar until 2029. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. —C.P. blackberry and cassis, coffee, a mélange of herbs abv: 13% Price: $NA Bodegas Tobía 2015 Óscar Tobía Blanco like thyme and bay leaf, cracked pepper and plenty 89 Reserva (Rioja). Overt oak and waxy apple of vanillin oak. The palate is tightly gripped by Esk Valley 2017 Gimblett Gravels Merlot- aromas introduce this barrel-fermented Viura-led drying hulking tannins and the fruit is plush and 91 Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc blend. A full-bodied palate is resiny due to this hav- extracted. Nevertheless, there is poise amidst all (Hawke’s Bay). This is classic Gimblett Gravels—with ing spent 18 months in barrel. Creamy woody fla- the power, just don’t expect to touch it for awhile. Merlot leading the way—at a bargain price. Notes vors of melon and banana finish with minimal kick Drink 2024–2039. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cel- of ripe blackberries, currents, warm earth, ground and acidity, so drink through 2021. Tri-Vin Imports. lar Selection­ . —C.P. black pepper and dried savory herbs with some oaky —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $150 tones can be found on both the nose and the palate. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 It’s full bodied and generously fruited, wound with Mills Reef 2013 Elspeth Gimblett Gravels a dusty thread of earthy tannins and a herbal finish. Alonso López 2018 Malvasia-Viura (Rioja). 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Hawke’s Bay). Impen- Drink now, with a rare steak or throughout the next 87 Mild white-fruit aromas are clean, common etrable in color, this Cabernet, from the renowned decade. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —C.P. and positive. A plump melony palate is in balance, Gimblett Gravels soils of Hawke’s Bay in the North abv: 13.5% Price: $18 while this Malvasia-Viura blend tastes of friendly Island, shows an iodine quality amidst stewed rasp- melon across a round finish. If ever a wine was good berries, currants, tangy sumac and earthy cumin to very good without making waves, this is it. Misa spice. As it opens with swirling in glass, the sweet SPAIN Imports. —M.S. oak aromas makes their way to the fore. The palate abv: 12.5% Price: $NA shows quite a lot of extraction and oak, with grainy, WHITE WINES grippy tannins and a long herbaceous finish. For Navardia 2018 Organic Wine (Rioja). Melon a 2013, it shows little sign of mellowing any time RÍAS BAIXAS 86 and lemon-lime aromas are clean and regu- soon. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —C.P. lar, while this feels lemony but with enough texture abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Pazo San Mauro 2018 Albariño (Rías to support that racy style. Lime and persimmon 90 Baixas). A blend of mineral, apple and pear flavors are steady on a balanced but basic finish. Stonecroft 2016 Gimblett Gravels Cabernet aromas amounts to a clean whole that presents this Mountain Peoples Wine. —M.S. 88 Sauvignon (Hawke’s Bay). Opaque in color, in a good light. A lemony palate blazes with citric abv: 13% Price: $14 this dense, herbaceous wine starts with a nose of acidity, while flavors of white pineapple and orange plush currants, graphite, dried tarragon and an don’t falter on the finish. If you want a textbook- Trillón 2018 Vendimia Seleccionada (Rioja). assortment of other dried herbs along with a good defined Albariño, this is it. H2 Vino. —M.S. 84 Aromas of hay, burnt grass and gritty white lick of slightly synthetic-feeling oak. While the alco- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 fruits are not great, while this feels chunky and oily

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BUYINGGUIDE on the palate. Salty melon and citrus flavors are dominant flavor on this racy brut nature, while a red for the most part, and the nose is not fresh but basic and bland, while this feels yeasty and full on short finish comes to an abrupt ending. Vicente is instead funky, cheesy and stalky. A chunky pal- the finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. Gandia USA. —M.S. ate doesn’t shine, while this tastes oddly greasy and abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $15 shy on fruit. Unfortunately, this is consistent with recent vintages. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Victoria Ordóñez NV Las Olas Del Melillero abv: 13.5% Price: $15 CARIÑENA 87 Brut Nature Rosé (Spain). Cotton candy aro- mas lead an inexact nose with gardenia and grassy Bodegas Paniza 2017 Campil Blanco Viura- notes. A round plump palate is easygoing, while this SPAIN 82 Chardonnay (Cariñena). Terpenes and petrol sparkler from the south of Spain tastes of citrus and control the nose on this gritty smelling Viura-led stone fruits prior to a finish with oxidative notes. RED WINES blend. A flat linear palate and yeasty white-fruit fla- Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. vors are oxidized on a flatlining finish. Hand Picked abv: 13% Price: $NA RIOJA Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Chic Barcelona NV Brut Métode Tradicional­ Contino 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Malty berry 86 (). Bready white-fruit aromas are 94 aromas are supported by cocoa, mocha and slightly briny, while this feels basic and quaffable. berry-fruit scents. This has a jammy plum and ­berry SPARKLING WINES Lime and yellow-apple flavors are calm and pleas- palate, with a ripe, slightly desiccated red-fruit- ant on a mild finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S. flavor profile. Depth and balance drive the finish, Alta Alella 2015 Mirgin Laieta Rosé Gran abv: 11.5% Price: $NA which is usually a good indication that aging will 91 ­Reserva Brut Nature (Cava). Toasty lusty only help. Drink through 2040. Arano LLC. Editors’ aromas of burnt orange make a statement. On the Bodegas Faustino NV Brut Reserva (Cava). Choice. —M.S. palate, this feels flush and fruity but also smack- 85 A yellow color and yeasty grassy aromas of abv: 13.5% Price: $45 ing. Briny salty flavors of red currant, tomato leaf white fruits and honey lead to a flat palate that’s and herbs finish with nectarine and plum notes. As lightly oxidized. Waxy apple flavors are low on Bodegas Tobía 2015 Alma Tobía Tinto de a whole, this is as a sophisticated and fairly complex zest, while this feels a bit lazy on the finish. Pacific 93 Autor­ (Rioja). Savory oak matched by malty brut nature. Avant Garde Wine & Spirits. —M.S. Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. berry-fruit aromas are toasty, chocolaty and invit- abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $17 ing. A full-bodied palate is solid but offers just enough give, while this tastes of blackberry, savory Alta Alella 2017 Mirgin Reserva Brut Nature Bodegas Faustino NV Brut Reserva Rosé oak and vanilla. A steady and long finish continues 90 Rosé (Cava). Fresh, light and clean aromas 81 (Cava). A turbid, maderized look and dull the core theme of this wine: balanced ripeness and of citrus, peach and wood smoke lead to a crisp pal- aromas of quince jelly and spent yeast announce a power. Drink from 2020–2040. Tri-Vin Imports. ate. Smoky orange and tangerine flavors finish with tired wine with an aimless palate. Bland exhausted Editors’ Choice. —M.S. latent toast, hard spice and spent yeast notes. This stone-fruit flavors finish with bitterness. Pacific abv: 14.5% Price: $75 is well done and makes it to the high floors of the Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. Cava ­hierarchy. Avant Garde Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $17 Eguren Ugarte 2011 Martin Cendoya Reserva abv: 12% Price: $25 93 (Rioja). Rock-solid aromas of berry fruits, graphite and olive are compact and holding plenty Albet I Noya NV Petit Albet Brut Reserva ROSÉS in reserve. A racy and packed palate is bold and 88 (Penedès). Dusty melon aromas set up a shows the stuffing, acidity, tannins and overall bal- plump and fruity palate, with only modest cut and Príncipe de Viana 2018 Edición Rosa Rosé ance to age for many years to come. Flavors of black soft bubbles. Baked apple and pear flavors are stan- 89 (Navarra). Clean, mild and welcoming plum, olive and cassis are mildly chocolaty on a firm dard for Catalonian sparklers and Cava, while this aromas of cantaloupe open this pale-colored rosé. finish. Drink at any point over the next 40 years. offers a hint of apple pie and spice on the finish. There’s texture and fullness to the palate, along W. Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.S. Multiple U.S. ­importers. —M.S. with dry melon flavors that rank as fresh. A steady abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 12% Price: $15 finish takes a while to quit. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18 Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Gran Reserva (Rioja).­ Roger Goulart NV Coral Rosé Brut (Cava). 93 For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. 88 Dusty minerally aromas of wet stones, Príncipe de Viana 2018 Garnacha Rosado abv: 14% Price: $40 crushed vitamins and stone fruits pass muster, 86 (Navarra). A reddish color is normal for this while this feels lean and clean, with little complex- type of Navarran Garnacha, while a fruity nose hints Sierra Cantabria 2015 Finca El Bosque (Rioja).­ ity to the mouthfeel. Orange and quince flavors fin- at peach and flower blossoms. A medium to full pal- 93 Cinnamon and spice aromas are big parts ish steady and without complications. Arano LLC. ate is on the lumbering side, while one-dimensional of an oak-driven nose. A full, plodding and tannic —M.S. citrus flavors finish with controlled heat and burn. palate is concentrated and grating in feel. Heav- abv: 12% Price: $20 Classical Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. ily toasted and blackened berry flavors finish with abv: 13.5% Price: $8 complex notes of cocoa, licorice, wood spice and Vicente Gandia NV Hoya de Cadenas Brut toast. Drink this massive Tempranillo through 87 (Cava). Yeasty melon and apple aromas are Navardia 2018 Organic Wine Rosé (Rioja). 2040. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. Cellar Selection. common for basic brut Cava like this. On the pal- 85 Yeasty aromas are generally fresh but non- —M.S. ate, this feels like soda at first, then more dry and specific. Shocking acidity makes for a hard-pound- abv: 14.5% Price: $125 chalky. Generic white-fruit flavors are consistent ing citric palate, while this tastes of blood orange across the finish. Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S. before turning slightly bitter and briny on the finish. Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2011 Barón abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Mountain Peoples Wine. —M.S. 92 D’Anglade Reserva (Rioja). Welcoming aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 mas of cola, oak and earthy plum are a touch tarry Vicente Gandia NV Hoya de Cadenas Brut and fiery. On the palate, this shows moderate to 87 Nature (Cava). Dry apple aromas introduce Ochoa 2018 Calendas Garnacha Rosé good depth but still seems a bit narrow. Flavors of a crisp, fresh and tangy palate. Lemon-lime is the 80 (Navarra).­ This Navarran Garnacha rosé is leafy, earthy berry and plum are lightly oaked and

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 finish with spice notes attached to lingering berry Generacion 8 2010 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Viña Cerrada 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas and plum fruit. Drink through 2035. MS Walker. 90 Chunky black-fruit aromas are on the 87 of green tobacco and berry fruits lead to a —M.S. raisiny side. On the palate, this feels blocky, bumpy fresh and upright palate. Spice and oak flavors are abv: 13.5% Price: $50 and scratchy. Dark black-fruit flavors are earthy and wrapped around plum and prune notes, while this baked, while this finishes slow and steady, with a shows a raisiny hint at its core, as if the warmth Bodegas Muriel 2015 Conde de los Andes forward note of coffee grounds. Drink through 2024. of the 2015 vintage got in the way of full and total 92 (Rioja). For full review see page 9. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. ripeness. Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $24

Bodegas Olarra 2015 Summa Reserva (Rioja). Marqués de Murrieta 2015 Finca Ygay ­Reserva Navardia 2017 Organic Wine (Rioja). Herbal, 91 Black-plum and cassis aromas include an 90 (Rioja). Soft, earthy berry and plum aromas 86 slightly soupy plum aromas clean up with exotic spice note akin to cardamom. In the mouth, are full and ripe but short on the complexity that airing. This organic but highly basic Tempranillo this is smacking and dense. Baked black-fruit fla- this is capable of showing. A medium-full palate is ­offers a mild grab on an otherwise easygoing palate. vors include notes of black coffee, cocoa and burnt in good shape, while dark plum, berry and raisin fla- Herbal plum flavors are slightly green, while this toast. On the finish, this stays chocolaty in flavor vors are confirmed on a steady, ripe and fruit-driven hollows out on the finish. Mountain Peoples Wine. and comfortable in feel. Drink through 2026. Tri-Vin finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S. —M.S. Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $68 Bodegas Olarra 2015 Sagasta Reserva (­Rioja). Bodegas Valdemar 2015 Inspiración Selec- Bodegas Riojanas 2015 Viña Albina Reserva 89 A full and chunky nose includes aromas of 85 ción Estate Bottled (Rioja). A thick soupy 91 (Rioja). Slightly desiccated aromas of prune herbal berry, tobacco and tar. A plump palate, with palate smells of black fruits and stale peanuts. The soften toasty dark-fruit scents. This Reserva from a weight and grabbiness, deals blueberry, prune, rai- sappy palate is borderline overdone, with cooked warm vintage is tight and braced by red-fruit acid- sin and vanilla flavors. Ripeness is confirmed on a flavors of baked berry fruits and grilled steak. Those ity. Plum and raspberry flavors are spicy like a fine hefty but sturdy finish of medium length. Classic same stewed characteristics don’t dissipate on a Rioja should be, while this finishes with integration Wines, Inc. —M.S. heavy finish. Tasted twice with similar findings. and a firm texture. Drink through 2025. Bodegas abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Terlato Wines International. —M.S. Riojanas. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $23 Valenciso 2011 Reserva (Rioja). Leafy aromas 89 are on the stalky, damp and stewed side and Marqués de Cáceres 2017 Made With Organic Covila 2011 II Gran Reserva (Rioja). Jammy not particularly fresh or fruity. In the mouth, this is 85 Grapes (Rioja). A chunky nose includes aro- 91 blueberry and cassis aromas set up a fleshy more bright and bold, with earthy, stalky plum and mas of tomato sauce, meat and Band-Aid, meaning flush palate that qualifies as jammy. This tastes of hard spice flavors. A note of oxidation appears on a this is challenging from the opening gun. A blocky blackberry, plum, vanilla and coconut. On the fin- finish that tastes toasty on the surface—very good palate is unfocused, with a grape-skins texture, ish, ripe fruit flavors are compact, forward and but not great. Classical Wines. —M.S. while herbal saucy oaky flavors dominate lightly stowing energy to spare. Drink through 2040. abv: 14.5% Price: $41 green-berry-fruit notes. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. ­Scoperta ­Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $31 Marqués del Atrio 2015 Reserva (Rioja). A 88 compact nose smells herbal and slightly Bodegas Olarra 2010 Añares Gran Reserva CVNE 2015 Imperial Reserva (Rioja). Savory green, with spearmint and cherry aromas stick- 84 (Rioja). Given how good 2010 was in ­Rioja, 91 oak and spicy foresty berry aromas are a ing out. A hard palate is scratchy, while berry and this Gran Reserva is disappointing and lacking but touch gritty. A grabby palate with controlled astrin- ­vanilla flavors are slightly weedy. Heat settles in still reasonably decent. Stale, gritty aromas are gency tastes of salty, lightly stalky plum and rasp- on the finish as the fruit evaporates. Wineco Corp. burnt and foresty, while this feels sharp, lemony berry, along with vanilla. Earthy berry and oak —M.S. and tannic. Leafy flavors of tomato and plum sug- flavors dominate a finish with tannic rub. Drink abv: 14% Price: $20 gest compost, while this is tough and gritty on the through 2035. Arano LLC. —M.S. finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $45 Bodegas Ugalde 2015 Reserva (Rioja). Red- abv: 14% Price: $40 87 plum aromas are fiery and punchy, with a Altanza 2010 Sorolla Reserva (Rioja). Tar, backing of light spice, oak and herbal notes. In the Marqués de la Concordia 2017 Rioja. Sketchy 90 smoky plum and berry aromas are fine but mouth, this is lean and cutting, with sharp acid- 84 aromas of pencil eraser, asphalt, medicinal light on complexity and elegance. This feels tight, ity. Red-currant, graphite and green-herb flavors cherry and oak-based clove are not the stuff of leg- with edgy tannins, while roasted plum flavors finish are smacking and tomatoey on a finish that hints end. In the mouth, this basic Rioja Tempranillo feels short on depth. For a high-end Reserva from a great at astringency.­ For a warm year like 2015, this is tight and acidic, without much body. Punchy plum vintage, this is just good enough to recommend. The stripped back. 4Front Imports, LLC. —M.S. flavors are backed by another round of oaky clove, Artisan Collection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 while this feels raw on the finish. Vintners Alliance. abv: 14% Price: $65 —M.S. Finca Valpiedra 2011 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Bodega Classica 2010 Lopez de Haro Gran 87 of burnt leaf, peanut butter, desiccated black 90 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas of spiced plum, fruits and olive are jumbled, strange and get tougher cherry, mocha and vanilla are common for Rioja to process the longer this sits. A racy sharp palate is OTHER RED WINES Gran Reserva. A choppy but dense mouthfeel lacks high in acid, while this tastes of tart plum and pie elegance but gets the job done. Roasted plum flavors cherry, with tobacco and vanilla in the backdrop. On Pago Casa Gran 2016 Falcata Casa Gran are earthy and hint at bacon, while this thickens up the finish, this is tangy at first then fizzles, leaving 90 (Valencia). A dense purple color and deep on a jammy finish. Drink through 2025. Monsieur acidic burn. For a pricey Reserva from a strong vin- black-fruit aromas signal a quality blend of Garna- Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. tage, this is not compelling. MundoVino–Winebow. cha Tintorera and Monastrell. A saturated palate abv: 14% Price: $29 —M.S. shows grip and tannins, while this tastes of black- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 berry, with a savory backing. Toast and chocolate

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BUYINGGUIDE flavors on the finish avoid tasting fake or candied. full bodied and will be fruity as it develops further. ness, this wine is ripe and full in the mouth. An European Wine Imports. —M.S. For now, the texture is the thing, so wait a bit for attractive perfumed quality enhances the ripeness. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 flavors to ripen. Drink this André Lurton wine from Drink now. New England Wine and Spirits Inc. 2020. Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. —R.V. Vicente Gandia 2016 Nebla Old Vine Garnacha abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $15 87 (Valencia). Rustic black-fruit and leathery aromas hold it together and don’t run roughshod. Château de Fontenille 2018 Entre-Deux- Château Fondarzac 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. This Garnacha is a bit choppy and tartaric, but 90 Mers. Stéphane Defraine’s full-bodied, ripe 89 This Claude Barthe wine is all about fruit black-fruit aromas are solid and convincing. While wine presents bold white-stone-fruit flavors that and spice. The combination of the strongly mineral this is quick and choppy on the finish, it’s also juicy contrast with the layers of acidity and mineral tex- texture and the green and citrus fruit flavors gives a and fresh. Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S. ture. This rich wine should age, so drink from 2020. complex wine that should age. Drink from late 2019. abv: 13% Price: $15 Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Fondarzac. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2017 Menguante 86 Tempranillo (Cariñena). Despite a foxy, Château de l’Aubrade 2018 Entre-Deux- Château Roquefort 2018 Rives (Entre-Deux- medicinal smelling opening, this Tempranillo from 90 Mers. This tangy, zesty wine is concen- 89 Mers). Ripe and concentrated, this wine Cariñena comes around. Scrubbing tannins lend trated, with ripe citrus and apple flavors. The spicy presents a full structure of herbal character and roughness to a palate with limited structure, while edge and richness have blended well to give a wine tangy acidity. It is packed with citrus and green herbal spicy plum and berry flavors include a green that is full and ready to drink. Profile Wine Imports. plums. Drink now. DHI Selections. —R.V. note prior to a cheek-rubbing finish. Skurnik Wines, Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $10 Château Vignol 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. This Château La Rose du Pin 2018 Entre-Deux- 89 ripe wine is full of apple and pear flavors. Familia Bastida 2016 Paraje de Titos Gar- 90 Mers. This is a balanced, fruity and fresh Its crisper side offers a more lemon and tangy citrus 85 nacha (La Mancha). A bulky nose is oaked wine. All the elements are in place to give it a crisp character. These two elements are coming together up, creamy and a bit green. Next, a full palate col- character with plenty of bright white fruits. Drink in a balanced wine. Drink from late 2019. The Wine lapses inward and feels sticky and resiny, while this this wine from Vignobles Ducourt now. La Ville List Inc. —R.V. Garnacha tastes of plum and blackberry along with Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 graphite and oak. Chocolate is the lead flavor on a abv: 13% Price: $12 rubbing, heavy finish. Saranty Imports. —M.S. Château Au Grand Paris 2018 Entre-Deux- abv: 14% Price: $20 Château les Arromans 2018 Entre-Deux- 88 Mers. This wine is full of ripe apples, apri- 90 Mers. Joël Duffau has produced a beauti- cots and crisp citrus. It is concentrated, with a Bodegas Illana 2016 Crianza (La Mancha). fully ripe wine in his final year of transferring the touch of pepper as well as good acidity. The wine’s 84 Gritty aromas of black top, black fruits and vineyard to certified organic. This 80/20 Sauvignon richness will allow it to age, so wait to drink until green herbs are the opening. This multigrape blend Blanc/Sémillon blend is rich but cut with freshness. late 2019. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best is grabby and stomping, with herbal flavors of tea Acidity also plays a role in this well-balanced wine, Buy. —R.V. infused into black fruit. A tannic finish is hard to the apple and pineapple flavors right up front. Drink abv: 12% Price: $9 rally around. World Traveler Imports, LLC. —M.S. now. Elite Wines Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $14 Château Bel Air Perponcher 2018 Réserve 88 (Entre-Deux-Mers). A tangy wine from a Bodegas Bleda 2016 Pinodoncel Vintage Château Nicot 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Despagne property with an illustrious history, this 83 (Jumilla).­ Not much to see here. The nose 90 From the Dubourg family’s home vineyard is packed with perfumed fruits that enhance the on this blend of Monastrell, Syrah and Merlot is for more than 200 years, this blend of Sauvignon wine’s fruitiness. The freshness is augmented by green and minty. A tough, scrubbing palate is the Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle is concentrated and the tangy acidity and density that come through at definition of rough, while this tastes of graphite and densely textured. With a spicy bite as well as young the end. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. green-berry fruits. Torgar Group. —M.S. green fruits, it needs time. Drink this ripe, full-bod- abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $11 ied wine from 2020. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Château Bonnet 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Ochoa 2017 Calendas Tempranillo-Garna- 88 This herbal wine from the home of the 83 cha (Navarra). Herbaceous aromas hint Château Turcaud 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. André Lurton group is ripe with white-currant at ­thistle, grass and reedy raw plum. While this 90 This ripe, concentrated wine has a strong and sliced-apple flavors. It has the beginnings of a feels fairly full, it’s all superficial; there’s almost texture with a tangy, perfumed character. The bite creamy character as it begins to mature. The style is no structure to this Tempranillo-Garnacha blend. of spice is a strong element in a wine that needs full but with a good tang at the end. Drink from late Minty spicy oaky flavors sit atop herbal plum and some aging. Drink from 2020. Sussex Wine Mer- 2019. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. berry fruit prior to a choppy finish. Frontier Wine chants. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château Grand Jean 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Vignoble Boudon 2018 Domaine du Bourdieu 88 This fruity wine offers plenty of lemon-zest 90 Cuvée Sainte Anne (Entre-Deux-Mers). This flavors enhanced by touches of ripe pineapple. It is BORDEAUX well-balanced wine with ripe citrus notes is imme- ready to drink. Lompian Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. diately attractive. It offers tropical-fruit flavors plus abv: 12.5% Price: $12 WHITE WINES a lemon-zest character that dominates. Drink now. Chartrand Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Château Landereau 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. ENTRE-DEUX-MERS abv: 13% Price: $16 88 This is a taut wine, filled with young, tangy textures and ripe white and yellow fruits. It needs to Château Tour de Bonnet 2018 Entre-Deux- Caves de Rauzan 2018 Château Fontoy mature as it softens its intensity. Drink this Vigno- 91 Mers. Tight and mineral driven, this wine is 89 (Entre-Deux-Mers). With its intense fruiti-

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 bles Baylet wine from 2020. Hand Picked Selec- with acidity. Drink this rich wine now. Best Buy. herbal flavors need to soften a little. Wait to drink tions. —R.V. —R.V. until late 2019. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $14

Château Martinon 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Château Pierrousselle 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Château Rauzan Despagne 2018 Réserve 88 This herbal wine has ripe concentration as 87 This wine is crisp, fruity and intense with 86 (Entre-Deux-Mers). This Despagne family well as a touch of spice. Lemon and gooseberry fla- acidity. Its freshness is crispened by lemon, with a wine is fresh, packed with delicious lemon flavors vors are tangy with pepper and a bite of acidity at more mineral character that will drive the wine as it and hints of a creamy texture. It is ready to drink. the end. Drink now. Milton’s Distributing Co., Inc. develops. Drink from late 2019. Savorian Inc. —R.V. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Château Sainte-Marie 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Les Vins de Lisenne 2018 Le Blanc de Château Tour de Mirambeau 2018 Réserve 87 This crisp, herbal wine is packed with goose- 86 Lisennes (Entre-Deux-Mers). Ripe pineapple 88 (Entre-Deux-Mers). This, tight, bright wine berry and grapefruit flavors. It is bright in style but and yellow-fruit flavors give this wine a warm, full with good acidity and crisp lemon flavors has a light offers concentration as well. Drink from late 2019. character. A touch of spice adds a soupçon of extra mineral element that adds texture. Its fruitiness Polaner Selections. —R.V. flavor to this pure, fruity wine’s aftertaste. Drink is developing well but needs another few months. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 now. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. Drink this Despagne family wine from late 2019. abv: 12% Price: $15 Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Vignobles Boissonneau 2018 Château Moulin abv: 12% Price: $20 87 de Ferrand (Entre-Deux-Mers). Packed with Château Darzac 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. A fruitiness, this crisp wine is full of lemon and spice 85 crisp and tangy wine from Vignobles Claude Château Vermont 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. A flavors. Its acidity is still right up front and the wine Barthe, this is bright with acidity. The lively char- 88 ripe wine offering pineapple as well as apri- could do with a little more time to soften. Drink acter is balanced by a touch of citrus that brightens cot flavors, this is full bodied and rich. Its fruitiness from late 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. everything. Drink the wine now. DM Vineyards & is already delicious. Drink this wine now. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Château de Bon Ami 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Caves de Rauzan 2018 Château Canteloud- 86 A lively, bright wine with good mineral- Château de Castelneau 2018 Entre-Deux- 87 ette (Entre-Deux-Mers). A ripe wine with ity, this is crisp and packed with fruit. Its texture 85 Mers. This soft, full-bodied wine has ripe tropical-fruit flavors, this is bright with acidity, adds pepper and minerality to the mix. Drink now. white-fruit flavors. It feels fat, more on the side with a light touch of minerality. Its fruitiness and Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. of white fruits with a creamy texture. Drink now. lemon-zest aftertaste are already attractive. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. now. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $15 Château de L’Hoste Blanc 2017 Entre-Deux- 86 Mers. Balanced wood aging and ripe fruit Château Goumin 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. Château Castenet 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. give a full wine packed with yellow fruits and with 85 This smooth, rounded wine from the André 87 A taut, nervy wine with a strongly mineral just a touch of toastiness. Drink now. Hand Picked Lurton group is ready to drink. The spice and light texture, this offers a bite of pepper as well as crisp Selections. —R.V. texture are gentle, hinting at herbal flavors with a green fruits. Its acidity is still young, right up front. abv: 13% Price: $28 tangy, lemon aftertaste. Beverage Solutions and Wait to drink the wine from late 2019. Jack Edwards Logistics, Inc. —R.V. Collection. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Guibon 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. This abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $12 86 herbal wine from the André Lurton group has a strong gooseberry character that comes from Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2018 Entre- Château du Rival 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. A Sauvignon Blanc. Its minerality needs a few months 83 Deux-Mers. This earthy, yeasty wine full of 87 smoothly textured wine, this is ripe with to soften. Drink from late 2019. Deutsch Family herbal flavors is hard work. It could soften but the pear and green-plum flavors freshened by a lemon- Wine and Spirits. —R.V. herbal character is probably too intense. Baystate zest and herbal edge. It is ready to drink. Savorian abv: NA Price: $16 Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: NA Price: $15 Château Haut Bessac 2018 Entre-Deux- 86 Mers. Lemon-zest and grapefruit flavors ENTRE-DEUX-MERS Château Grand Pascaud 2018 Entre-Deux- shoot through this intensely fruity wine. They also 87 Mers. A simple, fruity wine with bright give the wine a texture that needs to soften. This HAUT-BENAUGE acidity and an herbal edge, this is attractive and wine will be best from late 2019. Serendipity Wine refreshing to drink now. Tanginess adds interest to Imports. —R.V. Château Vermont 2017 Grande Cuvée the fresh fruitiness. Savorian Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 90 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). A lightly abv: 12.5% Price: $15 toasty wine with a touch of wood aging, this still Château La Mothe du Barry 2018 Cuvée retains a strong herbal element. It is maturing well, Château Haut Meyreau 2018 Entre-Deux- 86 French Kiss (Entre-Deux-Mers). This is a with fruitiness in equilibrium with the wood. Drink 87 Mers. Ripe, perfumed and creamy, this wine juicy wine with ripe yellow fruits as well as plenty now. —R.V. has good acidity and a pure line in citrus and white of acidity. Its freshness is balanced by ripe fruiti- abv: 13% Price: $29 fruits. It is open, fruity and ready to drink now. Her- ness, giving a wine that will be best with food. Elite itage Wine Cellars. —R.V. Wines Import. —R.V. Château Haut-La-Péreyre 2018 Entre-deux- abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 89 Mers Haut-Benauge. A herbal wine, this is full of crisp ripe pear and apple flavors with con- Château Malène 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. This Château Marjosse 2018 Entre-Deux-Mers. centration and definition. The wine is still a little 87 smoothly textured wine is ripe and full of 86 This wine has a spicy side, offering touches peppery white fruits, with apple flavors lightly cut of caraway seed and pepper. Its tangy character and

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BUYINGGUIDE young and will be better from late 2019. Vintage ’59 tion and ripe fruits are balanced by toastiness to edge to this buoyant wine. Drink now. Europvin Imports. —R.V. give a wine that can age. Let the poised yellow fruits USA. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 and acidity mature a few months more. Drink from abv: 13% Price: $12 late 2019. Luxco. Best Buy. —R.V. Château Ferran Saint Pierre 2018 Tradition abv: 13% Price: $15 Château d’Haurets 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. 84 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). Although 88 Crisp and clean, this wine is all about fruit- slightly oxidative, this wine also has ripe yellow Yvon Mau 2018 Premius Sauvignon (Bor- iness. Its lemon and green-plum flavors are already fruits that are full as well as lightly yeasty. Drink 90 deaux Blanc). Spicy notes from this wine’s delicious and refreshing, given a lift by the wine’s the wine now. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. wood aging balance against rich apricot and nutmeg tangy aftertaste. Drink now. Vinadeis Americas abv: 13% Price: $18 flavors and a general ripeness. The wine’s weight USA. Best Buy. —R.V. counterpoints the fresh, tangy aftertaste of the Sau- abv: 13% Price: $12 Château Ferran Saint Pierre 2017 Tradition vignon Blanc. Drink from late 2019. MHW, Ltd. Best 84 (Entre-deux-Mers Haut-Benauge). This Buy. —R.V. Château de l’Aubrade 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. wine has obviously been wood aged, and the wood abv: 12% Price: $15 88 Tangy and zesty, this is a ripe while also is too much—even after nearly two years it still herbal wine. Strong Sauvignon Blanc flavors reveal smothers the fruit. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. Château la France 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. a rich character balanced by intense acidity. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $24 89 Crisply herbal, this wine is tightly textured now. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. while also having layers of ripe fruit. With the tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ture in place, the wine can support the lemon and BORDEAUX BLANC green-plum fruitiness. These elements are coming Château de la Vieille Tour 2018 Bordeaux together and the wine will be better from late 2019. 88 Blanc. A rounded, smooth and spicy wine, Château Argadens 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Eagle Estates Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. this has a full-bodied character filled with tangy 90 With a spicy nose that is followed through abv: 12% Price: $12 lemon zest and apricots happily in balance. This on the palate, this is a full-bodied, wood-aged wine. Boissonneau wine’s ripeness gives a warm feel that Nutmeg zing combines easily with the ripe yellow- Famille Rochet 2018 C’Est La Vie (Bordeaux reflects the vintage. Wine Traditions. —R.V. fruit and lime flavors. Drink this still-developing 89 Blanc). Wood aging balances the ripe fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 wine from late 2019. CTS Distributing. Best Buy. vors of this wine, giving richness, plenty of spice —R.V. and yellow-fruit flavors at the end. Drink now. Misa Château de Ricaud 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Imports. —R.V. 88 This soft wine is already attractive. Sliced abv: 13.5% Price: $15 apple and green-pear flavors give it a ripe charac- Château Bois Malot 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. ter that doesn’t lose sight of freshness. This bright 90 Ripe apricot flavors characterize this full- VIgnobles Ducourt 2018 Ducourt Réserve wine is ready to drink now. Thiénot USA. —R.V. bodied and warm wine. Weight and concentration 89 de Famille (Bordeaux Blanc). This wine has abv: 13% Price: $15 show happily against just enough fresh acidity. This spice, ripe fruits and a warm character. Wood aging wine from Jean Meynard and Christelle Gauthier is has filled it out, adding toast and clove flavors to the Château des Antonins 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. ready to drink. Kappy’s Importing and Distributing ripe white fruits. Drink this full-bodied wine now. 88 This herbal wine offers layers of fresh acid- Co. Best Buy. —R.V. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V. ity and gooseberry flavors. The texture shows strong abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $15 Sauvignon Blanc characteristics that give the wine distinctive minerality and cut-grass aromas. Drink Château de Bonhoste 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. VIgnobles Ducourt 2018 Le Blanc De Mon- now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. 90 Tangy lemon zest comes through strongly 89 sieur Ducourt (Bordeaux Blanc). This full, abv: 12% Price: $15 in this wine. Its acidity is reinforced by a mineral fruity wine has benefited from the warmth of the texture that adds complexity. This fifth-generation vintage. Soft apricot and crisper pineapple flavors Château La Rose Saint Germain 2018 Bor- Fournier family wine has a full-bodied feel and is abound as does attractive spiciness. Drink this wine 88 deaux Blanc. Bright and with delicious fruit, still young. Let it calm down a little and drink from now. La Ville Imports. —R.V. this is an open, crisp wine. Its young fruitiness is late 2019. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 ready to drink, with lively acidity and a fragrant abv: 12.5% Price: $15 aftertaste. Locators.Best Buy. —R.V. Cap Royal 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. A simple, abv: 13% Price: $12 Château Fourcas Hosten 2018 Blanc de Four- 88 attractive, crisp and fruity wine, this is 90 cas Hosten (Bordeaux Blanc). Ripe apricot packed with baked-apple and pear flavors and the Château Lamothe 2018 Château Le Giron aromas set the warm character of this organic- right acidity. Drink now. MS Walker. —R.V. 88 (Bordeaux Blanc). This wine’s lively acidity vineyard wine. Spicy with a tangy texture and some abv: 13% Price: $15 is immediately attractive. The refreshing character herbal flavors, the wine is full in the mouth and brings out tangy apple and rhubarb fruitiness, fin- ready to age. The estate belongs to members of the Château Ballan-Larquette 2018 Bordeaux ishing with great freshness. Drink this wine now. family that owns Hermès. Drink from late 2019. 88 Blanc. This rounded, ripe wine moves the Steep Hill Importing. Best Buy. —R.V. Wineberry America LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. fruitiness in the direction of apricot and yellow- abv: 2.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 plum flavors. Reinforced by the warm acidity, the wine has a sunny character and is ready to drink. Château Lamothe de Haux 2018 Bordeaux Château Haut-Rian 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. A Exclusive Imports, Inc. —R.V. 88 Blanc. This crisp wine is bright, tangy and 90 bright and fruity wine, this has a ripe char- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 full of attractive lemon flavors. A riper side suggests acter, with hints of yellow fruits as well as warm red apples. Drink this balanced wine now. Steep Hill acidity. An attractive tangy character gives the wine Château Briot 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This Importing. Best Buy. —R.V. lift. Drink now. VOS Selections.Best Buy. —R.V. 88 is a crisp, bright wine with plenty of acid- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ity that contrasts with the green-apple flavors. The light texture and touch of minerality give a nervy Château Larroque 2018 88 (Bordeaux De Luze 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This is a rich 88 Blanc). This herbal wine has classic ripe 90 wine, wood aged and spicy. Its concentra- Sauvignon characteristics. With good acidity that

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 emphasizes the green and citrus-fruit flavors, the the lightly spicy wine is well textured and ready to character that shows well against the apple flavors. wine is poised, packed with freshness and ready to drink. Maison Barriere USA. —R.V. Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. drink. BNP Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $12 Château de la Rivière 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Le Bonalguet 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Penin 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. A 87 Nutty and spicy, this wine is ripe and 87 This ripe wine from a small family vineyard 88 touch of spice from wood aging gives extra full bodied. Rich almond and apricot flavors are has a warm feel to it, with rich apple and pear fla- richness to the creamed-apple flavors of this wine. enhanced by the open texture that is rounded and vors. It offers some concentration as well, bringing Still developing it will be better from late 2019. PS soft at the end. Drink now. Onze Importers. —R.V. a full-bodied feel as a contrast to the final acidity. Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 Drink now. Lionstone International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château des Arras 2018 Cuvée Gaïa (Bor- Château Thieuley 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. A 87 deaux Blanc). This wine is fruity, with crisp Château le Grand Verdus 2018 Bordeaux 88 ripe, softly textured wine, this comfortably apple and spice flavors that are lit by acidity. A taut, 87 Blanc. Attractively herbal, this is a per- combines spice and herbal flavors. The attractive nervy edge keeps it on its toes but will calm a little fumed, light and poised wine. Acidity gives a crisp fruitiness suggests lemon and gooseberry. Drink as it matures. Drink now or wait until late 2019. edge that contrasts with the ripe apple flavors. this wine from the Courselle sisters now. Calvert Roadhouse Wine Merchants. —R.V. Drink now. Wine Universe Corp. Best Buy. —R.V. Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château du Claouset 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Recougne 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Turcaud 2018 Cuvée Majeure (Bor- 87 Crushed-almond aromas come from this 87 This wine is soft, with ripe white fruits that 88 deaux Blanc). This full wine offers spice ripe, creamy wine. Light on acidity and heavy on give it weight while keeping enough freshness. A and warm yellow-fruit flavors. A creamy charac- weight, this full-bodied wine needs a few more touch of spice adds interest to the gentle fruitiness ter emphasizes the toasty flavors. Give this wine a months. Drink from late 2019. Fruit of the Vines, of this ready-to-drink wine. Vintus LLC. —R.V. few months and drink from late 2019. Sussex Wine Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Merchants. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $15 Château Roc de Minvielle 2018 Cuvée Les Château du Juge 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This 87 Tourelles (Bordeaux Blanc). Fresh, crisp and Cheval Quancard 2018 Réserve (Bordeaux 87 floral wine has an attractively perfumed fruity, this tangy wine offers lemon-zest and herbal 88 Blanc). Spicy with attractive clove accents, character. Its freshness complements ripe apple fla- flavors. Its texture shows a nervy character that this is a ripe wine. Lemon and gooseberry acidity vors that are touched by spice. The wine is balanced gives it a lift. Drink the wine now although it will integrates into the tight texture and intense herbal and ready to drink. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. be better from late 2019. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. character. A mineral edge suggests the wine will abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 deepen in flavors over the next few months, so wait until late 2019. Louis Glunz Wines. —R.V. Château du Payre 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. With Château Roc Meynard 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 its bright herbal character and richness, this 87 This wine’s soft texture belies its ripeness wine has a tangy character. It is full of ripe fruit that as well as the fruitiness that will develop as it ages Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) gives the wine generosity as well as a warm feel at over the next few months. Its rich character is a 88 2018 Légende (Bordeaux Blanc). Full of the end. Drink now. Terra au Verre. Best Buy. —R.V. product of the warm vintage and emphasizes apri- crisp acidity, this wine has a full-bodied character abv: 13% Price: $12 cot and yellow-plum flavors. Drink now. LefGroup, that shows in the ripe gooseberry and greengage LLC. —R.V. flavors. Its zesty texture underlines this fruitiness. Château Grand Jean 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. A abv: 12% Price: $15 Drink now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. 87 crisp, lemon-flavored wine, this is light and abv: 88% Price: $15 lively. Its freshness is reinforced by ripe grapefruit Château Roquefort 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. and acidity that creates a bright aftertaste. Drink 87 With ripe white fruits that are lit by lemon Dourthe 2018 La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon now. Lompian Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. acidity, this is a balanced, fresh wine. Its edge of 88 Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). Fruity with orange abv: 12.5% Price: $12 minerality and smooth aftertaste make it immedi- and lemon-peel flavors, this wine is already deli- ately attractive. Drink now. DHI Selections. —R.V. cious. A more herbal element gives the wine tex- Château l’Oiseau 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ture as well as a full character. This ripe wine with 87 Toasty and ripe, this is a creamy-textured a crisp edge is ready to drink now. Thiénot USA. wine. With spice added to the generous fruitiness, Château Roques Mauriac 2018 Bordeaux —R.V. the wine is warm and likely to age. Drink from late 87 Blanc. Tense, tangy and still very young, this abv: 12.5% Price: $15 2019. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. herbal wine offers plenty of ripe fruits. Its crisp tex- abv: 12% Price: $12 ture is already attractive, but it needs some time, Producta Vignobles 2018 Bordeaux Revolu- so wait until late 2019. Total Wine & More. —R.V. 88 tion (Bordeaux Blanc). Packed with fruit, Château la Freynelle 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 14% Price: $15 this is a ripe and full-bodied wine. Its acidity is fully 87 An herbal wine, this is full, with a tangy integrated into the richness, also balancing some character and concentrated green and citrus-fruit Maison Bertrand Ravache 2018 Léo By Léo herbal characteristics against generous yellow-fruit flavors. Its current edginess needs to calm down and 87 (Bordeaux Blanc). This is an attractive, fra- flavors. Drink now. Wine Dogs Imports. —R.V. the wine will be better from late 2019. Aquitaine grant wine, with white-flower perfumes and crisp abv: 12% Price: $15 Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. acidity that gives a bright character. It has a light abv: 12.5% Price: $12 feel, making it attractive to drink now. One, Barrière Frères 2018 Grand Bateau (Bordeaux LLC. —R.V. 87 Blanc). With fruitiness right up front, this is Château La Rame 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12% Price: $15 an already attractive, refreshing wine. Crisply tex- 87 Bright, crisp and packed with fruit, this is a tured and also with a warm yellow-fruit character, refreshing, simple wine. Its lively acidity has a fresh Château de Marsan 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. 86 This wine is taut and textured with crisp

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BUYINGGUIDE white-fruit flavors. The lemon acidity and bright fruitiness comes a tangy character that brings out Château Les Combes 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. character lift the wine and leave a fresh aftertaste. more Sauvignon Blanc flavors. Drink the wine now. 85 This attractively fresh wine has bright acid- Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. ity that complements the herbal flavors. The texture abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 is soft, with a light zesty tang at the end. Drink now. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. Château de Seguin 2018 Sauvignon de Château Suau 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Up- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 86 Seguin (Bordeaux Blanc). A strongly herbal 86 front fruitiness makes this an attractive wine, this is full of grapefruit and gooseberry fla- wine. Apple and lime flavors give the wine a ripe feel Château les Pasquets 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. vors. With its tight acidity and mineral edge, the while acidity provides the necessary balance. Drink 85 There is a real tang to this attractive wine. wine is definitely on the crisp, cool side. Drink now. now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Crisp and clean, its citrus flavors chime with the Plume Ridge. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 bright acidity and gooseberry freshness. Drink the abv: 12.5% Price: $10 wine now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. Château Tour de Goupin 2018 Bordeaux abv: 12% Price: $15 Château Haut Mouleyre 2018 Bordeaux 86 Blanc. Packed with fruit, this is a ripe wine. 86 Blanc. This strongly herbal wine is ripe, full Sliced apple flavors are lifted by the acidity of the Château Mayne Vieil 2018 Buisson-Redon in the mouth with intense tangy acidity. Its weight wine while keeping the richness. It is ready to drink. 85 (Bordeaux Blanc). A nutmeg aroma con- and concentration are considerable. Drink this per- Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. firms the spicy character of this wine. To contrast, fumed wine now. Advantage International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 green-fruit flavors add freshness. Drink this softly abv: 12.5% Price: $15 textured wine now. Winesmith. —R.V. Château Toutigeac 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Château La Roberterie 2018 Sauvignon 86 Crisp and herbal, this is a tight wine. The 86 Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). The tangy fruiti- acidity and tangy texture are right up front, high- Château Mondésir-Gazin 2018 Bordeaux ness of this wine is lively and full bodied. Citrus fla- lighted by green-fruit flavors. This wine is ready to 85 Blanc. This wine’s yellow-fruit flavors vors are balanced by ripe apples and contrast with drink. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. emphasize its fat character and touch of oxidation. an herbal edge. The wine is ready to drink. Château abv: 12.5% Price: $15 It is a rich wine, bringing out full-bodied fruitiness. 1590 LLC. —R.V. Drink now. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 Les Hauts de Lagarde 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 86 This wine is all about bright fruits, crisp Château la Verrière 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. texture and balanced acidity. Delicious and refresh- Château Petit-Freylon 2018 Cuvée PF (Bor- 86 This crisp, fruity wine has a light herbal ing it is ready to drink. Natural Merchants, Inc. 85 deaux Blanc). Apple and pear flavors give touch that contrasts with the attractive apple and —R.V. this wine freshness and spice. It is bright, fruity and lemon flavors. It offers a bright tang at the end. abv: 12% Price: $15 ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. Drink now. Citadel Trading. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Michel Lynch 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Crisp 86 fruits show strongly in this JM Cazes Sélec- Château de Parenchère 2018 Bordeaux Château Lamothe-Vincent 2018 Intense tion wine. With plenty of acidity, a mineral edge and 84 Blanc. This wine is light, spicy and has a 86 (Bordeaux Blanc). A strongly herbal wine, zesty character, the wine is cool, full of fruit and gentle texture. It is soft and open, ready to drink this has a taut texture and considerable acidity. Its ready to drink. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. now. Winebow. —R.V. freshness is all there, surrounded by the tangy tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 ture. Drink now. La Ville Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 Château Bellevue 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This Château Guichot 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. 85 wine is bright, fruity and crisply textured. 84 Softly textured and fruity, this is a simple, Château Montet 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This With tangy acidity, a touch of spice and peppered bright wine. Its lemon character has a ripe feel, 86 wine is all about attractive, crisp fruit. pear flavors, the wine is ready to drink. Taub Family emphasized by the gently spicy aftertaste. Drink Bright acidity and lemon flavors give it both ripe- Selections. —R.V. now. DHI Selections. —R.V. ness and a fresh aftertaste. This lively wine is ready abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 to drink. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. Château La Croix de Queynac 2018 Bordeaux Château Moulin de Vignolle 2018 Bordeaux abv: 12.5% Price: $10 85 Blanc. This ripe, fruity wine offers pineap- 84 Blanc. This spicy wine conveys a almond ple and yellow-fruit flavors that are lifted by acidity, and nutmeg perfume that adds to the yeasty char- Château Pertignas 2018 Cuvée Priolet (Bor- bringing freshness at the end. Drink now. Michael acter. It is softly textured and ready to drink. Mr. 86 deaux Blanc). Almond flavors balance with Corso Selections. —R.V. Wine. —R.V. the ripe fruitiness of this wine. With its spice and abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $20 buttery character, it is full bodied and generous. Drink now. Petit Vin. —R.V. Château La Gabarre 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Château Pilet 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. This abv: 12.5% Price: $15 85 This soft wine has a ripe feel. Smooth tex- 84 ripe wine offers gentle green-fruit flavors ture and apple and pear flavors are gentle, with a and a simple fruitiness. It misses out on a crisper Château Pierrail 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. Full rounded character that emphasizes the wine’s open- side with its fat aftertaste. Drink now. HB Wine 86 bodied but with an attractive line of acid- ness. Drink now. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. Merchants. —R.V. ity, this is a ripe wine. The tangy texture underlines abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $12 the green fruit and herbal flavors that give the wine density. Drink now. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. Château Lauduc 2018 Classic (Bordeaux Château Maison Noble 2018 Cuvée Maurice abv: 13.5% Price: $15 85 Blanc). This soft, open wine is gently fruity. 83 (Bordeaux Blanc). This yeasty, fat wine has Its acidity is fully integrated into the apple and nutmeg and yellow-fruit flavors. It seems a little Château Reynier 2018 Bordeaux Blanc. lemon flavors. This attractive wine is ready to drink. oxidized and, with high alcohol, hot. C’est Vin LLC. 86 Lightly perfumed, this wine has fragrant Franck’s Signature Wines. —R.V. —R.V. white fruits that give it a floral character. With its abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $15

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Château la Freynelle 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. ready-to-drink wine. The texture gives it richness, BORDEAUX 88 This fresh, red-currant-flavored wine with with ripe strawberry flavors and a generous after- bright acidity is balanced and lively. With just the taste. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. ROSÉS right amount of weight and ripeness, it is ready to abv: 12.5% Price: $15 drink. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V. BORDEAUX CLAIRET abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château Bellevue 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. An 87 attractive, smoothly textured wine, this has Château Landereau 2018 Bordeaux Clairet. Chateau la Rame 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. With acidity that comes from the raspberry fruits. A fresh 88 This wine’s fruit is lost within the tannins 88 its intense acidity, this wine brings out red- wine, it is balanced, fruity and ready to drink now and structure. It could do with some time to soften currant flavors that are allied to extreme freshness. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. and bring out the berry fruits that are there. Drink It is taut, with a mineral edge that adds interest. abv: 13% Price: $15 from late 2019. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 Château de l’Aubrade 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. 87 Lightly colored, this Vignobles Lobre wine Château de Parenchère 2018 Bordeaux Château Roquefort 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. has plenty of acidity along with attractive red-cur- 87 Clairet. Tannins and red-berry fruits come 88 This crisp wine is full of raspberry and rant fruitiness. Structure brings tanginess to the together in this structured wine. Spice and a light red-currant fruits. Acidity balances the ripe fruiti- bright and fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Profile Wine pepper character add to the ripeness and straw- ness. The wine has a refreshing character and bright Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. berry flavors. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. aftertaste. Drink now. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château de la Rivière 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. Château Turcaud 2018 Bordeaux Clairet. Famille Rochet 2018 Absolu (Bordeaux 87 Light tannins give this wine both shape and 86 This wine has a structure to go with the 88 Rosé). This wine’s acidity shows well a rounded character. There is acidity although berry bright strawberry flavors. Rich, with ripe fruitiness, against bright red-berry fruits, while a light struc- flavors are muted. It needs another few months, so it offers tannins as well as plenty of acidity. Drink ture gives shape and drinkability. This fresh, per- drink from late 2019. Saranty Imports. —R.V. now. Sussex Wine Merchants. —R.V. fumed wine is ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 Château Goudichaud 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. Château de Marsan 2018 Bordeaux Clairet. Jean Médeville et Fils 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. 87 This wine is all about attractive fruit. Acid- 85 This young wine from Gonfrier Frères offers 88 This balanced wine with red-berry fruits ity and strawberry flavors are balanced with just a tannic structure plus plenty of raspberry fruits. It and integrated acidity is immediately attractive. touch of tannin to give extra structure. Drink now. needs a little time to bring the two together. Wait Freshness balanced by ripe fruitiness gives a wine Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V. until late 2019. Misa Imports. —R.V. that is ready to drink. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château La Gabarre 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. UG Bordeaux 2018 Dry Rosé (Bordeaux Maison Bertrand Ravache 2018 L’Instant 87 Ripe fruit gives a rounded character to this 85 Clairet). Structure is the key to this wine. 88 (Bordeaux Rosé). Fresh, crisp and packed soft wine. The lightly tannic texture brings in some With a firm tannic edge it behaves like a light red with fruit, this is a clean, perfumed wine. Its acidity spice, leaving the obvious fruitiness to one side. wine, with blueberry as well as raspberry fruits. is still young, and over the time it will soften to give This is a wine for food. Drink now. Michael Corso Drink now. Boutique Beverage Company. —R.V. a wine with raspberry flavors and ripeness. Drink Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 now. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $15 Château Guichot 2018 Bordeaux Clairet. This Château le Grand Verdus 2018 Bordeaux 84 wine has a toasty aroma that translates into Maison Kressmann 2018 Pink de Kressmann 87 Rosé. A tangy, fruity wine with attractive a spicy palate. The wood aging has taken away from 88 (Bordeaux Rosé). This bright, fruity wine acidity and bright red-currant flavors, this is a great the fruit and left structure. DHI Selections. —R.V. offers good acidity and a crisp texture. A touch of aperitif style. The acidity will soften over the next abv: 14% Price: $15 caramel adds an extra ripeness. The wine is ready to few months to round out the wine and give it extra drink. Peloton Imports. —R.V. ripeness. Wine Universe Corp. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 BORDEAUX ROSÉS Michel Lynch 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. This wine Château Penin 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. This Château Marot 2018 Grande Réserve (Bor- 88 has a definite structure to give it shape. 87 balanced wine with ripe strawberry flavors 89 deaux Rosé). A balanced, fruity wine, this is Fruitiness comes from the raspberry flavors that is soft, fruity and likely will partner well with food. immediately attractive and drinkable. Fresh fruiti- bring in acidity. At the end, a touch of caramel adds From Vignobles Carteyron, it is textured, crisp and ness is light with red-currant flavors and juicy acid- further texture. Drink this JM Cazes Sélection now. ready to drink. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. ity. Drink the wine now. Mr. Wine. Best Buy. —R.V. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $15 Château Pertignas 2018 La Rosé de Pertig- Château Pilet 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. Poised Vignobles Falgueyret Léglise 2018 Made- 87 nas (Bordeaux Rosé). This wine is all about 89 between acidity and strawberry fruits, this 88 moiselle (Bordeaux Rosé). Bright and fruity, fruitiness, with red-currant and berry flavors burst- balanced wine is smoothly textured and ripe. Con- this is an attractive wine. Its light texture and bal- ing out all over. Acidity and a light minerality help it centration gives it spice and texture. Drink this Jean ance between red-currant and red-berry fruit is just along the way. Drink now. Petit Vin. Best Buy. —R.V. Queyrens et Fils wine now. HB Wine Merchants. right. Drink this wine now. Soilair Selection. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $12 Château Thieuley 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. Yvon Mau 2018 Premius (Bordeaux Rosé). 87 Smoothly textured, this wine from the Cour- 88 This is a soft, balanced and attractively selle sisters is soft, with attractive red-berry fruits

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BUYINGGUIDE and a touch of pepper. The wine’s rounded texture Let the wine soften a little and drink from late 2019. Maison Sichel 2018 Château Argardens (Bor- is attractive, easy and ready to drink now. Calvert Exclusive Imports, Inc. —R.V. 85 deaux Rosé). Lightly structured, this is a Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 full wine, with ripe, red fruits to go with the acidity abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and touches of pepper. Drink now. Pinnacle Inter- Chai de Bordes 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. The national. —R.V. Cheval Quancard 2018 Cuvée Clémence 85 caramel aroma of this wine leads to nutty abv: 11.5% Price: $15 87 (Bordeaux Rosé). This young wine is lightly flavors and a ripe, soft texture. Acidity is gentle, touched by wood, with the fruitiness very much to leaving much more space on the palate for ripe Vignobles Jaubert 2018 Château Landonnet the fore. Citrus flavors are matched by spice and a fruitiness. Drink now. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. 85 (Bordeaux Rosé). This bright, lively wine is mineral texture. Drink from 2020. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 lightly textured with spicy tannins. Acidity and red- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 berry flavors come together well with the pepper Château de Fontenille 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. aftertaste. Drink now. Trader Joe’s.Best Buy. —R.V. Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2018 Bor- 85 A pale-colored wine that has light acidity abv: 12% Price: $10 86 deaux Rosé. This wine’s acidity is intense, and a touch of raspberry-candy flavors, this is fruity showing red-currant flavors, considerable freshness with a fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. Château d’Haurets 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. and a fruity aftertaste. The wine’s acidity suggests abv: 12% Price: $15 84 Caramel aromas are repeated on the palate it will be a fine food partner. Drink now. Baystate of this wine. That gives it a fat character that leaves Wine & Spirits. —R.V. Château de Lisennes 2018 7 Hectares (Bor- a ripe, fruity aftertaste, but always with this cara- abv: 13% Price: $12 85 deaux Rosé). This easy, drinkable wine mel character. Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. comes from a little over 17 acres (seven hectares). abv: 13% Price: $12 Château de Belcier 2018 Fleurs de Belcier Fruity with candied red-berry flavors, its light tex- 86 (Bordeaux Rosé). Packed with acidity and ture is filled out by caramel flavors that bring out Château de la Vieille Tour 2018 Bordeaux fruitiness, this is a lively, red-berry-flavored wine. a riper side. Drink now. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. 84 Rosé. A ripe wine, this is softly textured Pale in color, its fruitiness and acidity are just right. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with caramel and spice flavors that dominate the Drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. gentle red fruits. Drink the Boissonneau wine now. abv: 13% Price: $10 Château du Claouset 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. Wine Traditions. —R.V. 85 This light-colored wine is gently textured, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Château la Verrière 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. with smooth creamed-strawberry flavors. The 86 A textured wine with ripe red fruits, this wine’s acidity is just enough to sustain its fresh- Château Haut Mouleyre 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. is lightly mineral and full in the mouth. Acidity is ness. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 84 Crisp and fresh, this wine is lightly textured already well integrated into the berry flavors. Drink abv: 12% Price: $12 and bright with acidity. It is spoiled by a candy- now. Citadel Trading. —R.V. shop character that suggests red-fruit sherbet. abv: 13% Price: $12 Château Haut Guillebot 2018 Martinot (Bor- Drink now. Advantage International. —R.V. 85 deaux Rosé). Almost white in color, this abv: 13% Price: $15 Château Lamothe 2018 Miette (Bordeaux wine is just as light to taste. Its fruitiness and light 86 Rosé). A soft texture contrasts with the texture give the wine a smooth feel, with red-berry Château La Croix de Queynac 2018 Bordeaux bright acidity and tangy, zesty character of this fruits coming through at the end. Deutsch Family 84 Rosé. This wine is so soft it is almost com- wine. Balanced and fruity it retains structure and Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. pletely neutral in profile. Faint hints of red fruits on minerality. Drink now. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 the palate leave a wine that lacks freshness. Michael abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Corso Selections. —R.V. Château Tour de Goupin 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Château Lamothe-Vincent 2018 Bordeaux 85 This wine’s bright fruits give it a crisp char- 86 Rosé. For a modern rosé, this is dark in acter as well as some minerality. Red-currant fla- Château La Roberterie 2018 Rosé La Rober- color and that shows on the palate in the texture of vors and a touch of tannin emphasize the structure. 84 terie (Bordeaux Rosé). Orange-zest and light tannins. A ripe wine, it will be at its best with Drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. lemon flavors intrude on the red-currant fruits food. La Ville Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 of this wine. The unbalanced character pits fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $12 against texture. Château 1590 LLC. —R.V. Château Vermont 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. abv: 12% Price: $12 Château les Aubiers 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. 85 While this wine is crisp and full of acidity, 86 Attractive fresh fruits shine through this it also has an attractively ripe red-berry character. Caves de Rauzan 2018 Château Charron (Bor- light and bright wine. The crisp texture gives a lift Lively and fruity, it is ready to drink. —R.V. 83 deaux Rosé). This wine has sharp acidity at the end. Drink now. Mr. Wine. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 that is too intense. The fruitiness is marred by this abv: 12.5% Price: $20 too-crisp texture. Laird & Company. —R.V. Dourthe 2018 La Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux abv: 12% Price: $15 De Luze 2018 Bordeaux Rosé. This fresh 85 Rosé). This wine is balanced, with good 86 wine with gentle tannins has good acidity acidity and ripe red-currant fruits. Lightly textured Château Ramage la Batisse 2018 La Rosée de to go with red-berry flavors. Light minerality adds with a tangy orange-zest edge, the wine is bright. 83 Ramage (Bordeaux Rosé). This vividly col- to the shape of the wine, which is ready to drink Drink now. Thiénot USA. —R.V. ored wine is textured with some tannins. Its flavor now. Luxco. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 is intense too, with candied red-berry fruits. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $15 Maison Ginestet 2018 Châteaux la Jal- Vignobles Chaigne et Fils 2018 Château 85 gue (Bordeaux Rosé). A ripe wine full of Producta Vignobles 2018 Mission Saint- 86 Ballan-Larquette (Bordeaux Rosé). Tannins strawberry flavors, this is rounded and smoothly 83 Vincent (Bordeaux Rosé). Searing acidity are very apparent in this wine. Along with the red- textured. The result is a soft wine that is ready to is almost too much in this wine. The red-currant currant tanginess, it has a strong sense of structure. drink. Savorian Inc. —R.V. flavors are equally sharp, leaving a wine that is too abv: 12.5% Price: $15

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 crisp and nervy for its own good. Wine Collection ine and apricot flavors on the palate of this wine. tone to tangerine and apricot in this unusually fresh Holding. —R.V. It’s creamy and lip smacking, with a long, honeyed expression of Condrieu. Stone-fruit flavors are ripe abv: 12% Price: $12 finish. Bird Rock Imports.Editors’ Choice. —A.I. and concentrated but balanced briskly by sunny abv: 13.5% Price: $NA lemon acidity. The finish lingers on a slick of honey- comb. Beaune Imports. —A.I. NORTHERN RHÔNE Gilles Flacher 2015 Les Rouelles (Condrieu). abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 Tropical melon and pineapple flavors CONDRIEU abound in this sunny, silk-textured wine. Plump Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2015 and concentrated, it’s brightened by streaks of tan- 89 Les Caillets (Condrieu). Smoky, intensely Domaine Martin Clerc 2016 Condrieu. This gerine candy and spice. The finish is long and lavish earthen aromas dissipate with aeration, revealing 94 gorgeously tropical Viognier bursts from but wraps up neatly on a fringe of bitter tea tannins. fresher tones of orange blossom and apricot in this nose to palate with notes of fresh, concentrated Enjoy now–2022. Bird Rock Imports. —A.I. wine. It’s unctuous and richly textured, marked by melon, guava and pineapple. It’s juicy and richly abv: 13.5% Price: $NA waxy swirls of honeycomb and cream. The finish is textured but remarkably spry, edged by layers of marked by bitter hints of bramble and bee pollen. crushed stone and a floral kiss on the finish. Enjoy- M. Chapoutier 2016 Invitare (Condrieu). Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. able now it should develop depth through 2026. 93 Zesty mineral tones and fresh acidic balance abv: 13% Price: $NA Shiverick Imports. —A.I. lend an invigorating tone to this aromatic dry white. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Honeysuckle and apricot flavors are pristine and Domaine Chambeyron 2016 Vernon (Con- crisp. It’s a freshly fruited but elegant Condrieu to 88 drieu). Intensely ripe apricot and peach fla- François Villard 2016 Le Grand Vallon (Con- enjoy now through 2023. Terlato Wine Group. —A.I. vors are edged by prominent notes of toast, bramble 94 drieu). Lavender and tangerine skins meld abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and earth in this wine. The palate is creamy and into granite tones on the nose of this silky, supple a bit bulky in mouthfeel but brightened by hits of Viognier. Melon and apricot flavors are concen- Maison Denuzière 2016 J. Denuzière (Con- tangerine acidity. The finish is marked by a whisper trated and fresh on the palate, offset by sunny acid- 93 drieu). Creamy swirls of vanilla-orange ice of heat. APS Wine & Spirits. —A.I. ity and a salty, mineral finish. This voluptuous but cream and honeydew melon dominate this unctu- abv: 14% Price: $NA elegant wine should drink well through 2030. J.A.E. ous but pertly balanced Viognier. It’s silky and Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. richly concentrated but maintains an elegant, sunny Vidal-Fleury 2016 Condrieu. Heady guava abv: 13% Price: $NA appeal. The finish is long and tangerine scented. 88 and mango notes are layered in caramel and Saranty Imports. —A.I. honey in this fleshy, softly textured Viognier. It’s François Villard 2016 Villa Pontciana (Con- abv: 13% Price: $NA yielding and open, with a slightly warming finish. 94 drieu). The nose of this wine is delicate but Enjoy young. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. perfumed, wafting of orange blossom, apricot and Domaine Pichat 2016 La Caile (Condrieu). abv: 13.5% Price: $72 honeycomb. Full bodied and glycerol on the palate, 92 Orange blossom and white peach perfume it offers layers of tangerine and stone-fruit flavors this plump but freshly balanced Viognier. Tropical edged by a pleasant ring of bitters. This powerful yet melon, banana and citrus flavors are ripe but crisply CÔTE-RÔTIE pretty wine will be best enjoyed now through 2026. concentrated. The finish is pristine and mineral. J.A.E. Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Enjoy now–2023. The Wine House. —A.I. Delas Frères 2016 La Landonne (Côte-Rôtie). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 97 Sun-baked garrigue and smoky notes of iron and earth accent intensely ripe black cherry Vignobles Verzier 2015 R (Condrieu). This is Gabriel Meffre 2015 Laurus (Condrieu). Pen- and cassis in this wine. Made from 100% Syrah, 94 a sultry Viognier packed with yellow-peach 92 etrating white peach and apricot flavors are it’s a hulking powerhouse of black-fruit flavors but and tangerine flavors. Its glossy texture is magnified accented by spicy hits of anise and white pepper in finessed by firm acidity and fine, integrated tannins. by skeins of vanilla cream and notes of honeysuckle this wine. It’s lavish and round but brightened by Stunning already it should improve through 2036 and spice. The finish clings with a delightfully silken sunny tangerine acidity and a pleasant rim of bitters and hold further. Maisons Marques & Domaines touch. Beaune Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. on the finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —A.I. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

Xavier Gérard 2016 Côte Châtillon (Con- Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2016 Les Vidal-Fleury 2016 La Chatillonne (Côte- 94 drieu). Intense aromas of apricot and orange 91 Caillets (Condrieu). Crisp notes of lemon, 96 Rôtie). This intensely perfumed blend of cream burst from this lavish, concentrated Viognier. tangerine and dried thyme accent apricot and hon- 88% Syrah and 12% Viognier boasts sultry cassis It’s creamy and unctous in texture but brightened eysuckle in this slender, silky Viognier. It’s full bod- aromas marked by bramble, black pepper, smoke by sunny tangerine acidity and a pleasant bite of ied but refreshingly spry. The finish is moderately and vanilla. Lavishly textured and rich, it’s a hedo- tannins. It’s a classic and elegant Condrieu. Rosen- long and fringed by delicate tea tannins. Fruit of the nistic sip, with concentrated black-cherry flavors. thal Wine Merchant. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Vines, Inc. —A.I. Zesty acidity and fine-grained, gripping tannins add abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA structure. Irresistible now for its luscious, primary fruit, it likely will develop earth and mineral inten- François Villard 2016 Deponcins (Condrieu). Domaine Vallet 2016 Rouelle-Midi (Condrieu). sity through 2035 and hold further still. Frederick 93 This creamy, lavishly textured Viognier 91 While the nose is restrained, apricot and Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. ripples with cantaloupe, orange and vanilla flavors. honeysuckle are primary and pure on the palate of abv: 13.5% Price: $NA It’s concentrated and finishes on bold, penetrating this briskly balanced Viognier. While full bodied flares of honeysuckle and apricot notes as well as a and plump, it’s juicy and easy drinking, nuanced by Xavier Gérard 2015 La Landonne (Côte- pleasant bite of tannins. J.A.E. Wine Imports. —A.I. hints of blossom, earth and wax that linger. Regal 96 Rôtie). Charry and herbaceous, black- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. fruited and granitic, the nose alone of this wine will abv: 13.8% Price: $NA enchant. Its pristine black-cherry flavor is mouth- Gilles Flacher 2016 Les Rouelles (Condrieu). watering yet complex, undulating complexities 93 Delicate whiffs of orange blossom and Vignobles Verzier 2016 Authentic (Condrieu). of violet, fur, earth and spice. Beautiful already it smoked nut contrast with the concentrated tanger- 91 Fresh lime and mint lend an invigorating

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BUYINGGUIDE should continue to improve through 2035. Rosen- should improve through 2036. The Wine House. Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2015 thal Wine Merchant. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. —A.I. 94 La Germine (Côte-Rôtie). A blend of 95% abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA Syrah and 5% Viognier, this perfumed, densely con- centrated wine bursts with mulberry and plum fla- Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2016 Domaine Pichat 2016 Les Grandes Places vors. The ruddy, rich mouthfeel is offset by streaks 95 La Chana (Côte-Rôtie). Bold sprays of apri- 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Smoke and spice notes in this of acidity and spicy, savory crushed black pepper, cot and honeysuckle point to the 7% of Viognier wine are prominent but mingle easily into earthier anise and sage. It’s a potent, powerhouse wine with blended into this lavishly perfumed Syrah. Blos- tones of bramble, forest floor and iron. Made from chalky but mouthfilling tannins. Hold till 2021 at somy notes extend through the palate as well, meld- 100% Syrah, it’s richly concentrated and bursts least—it should reward well through 2035. Fruit of ing into pristine cassis and cherry flavors. It’s a with cassis and black-cherry flavors. The palate the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. brightly composed wine with a nervy spine of acid- is silky but freshly balanced, edged by fine, chalky abv: 13% Price: $NA ity and firm but integrated tannins. Lovely already tannins that penetrate through a long finish. Lovely it should improve through 2030 and hold further. already it will improve through 2036 and likely hold Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2015 Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. further. The Wine House. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 94 Maison-Rouge (Côte-Rôtie). Intensely ripe, abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA almost ruddy flavors of baked plum and black-cur- rant preserve pulse from this richly concentrated Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2016 M. Chapoutier 2016 Les Bécasses (Côte- Syrah. Compared to the producer’s other 2015 bot- 95 Maison-Rouge (Côte-Rôtie). Notes of dark 95 Rôtie). Brisk blackberry, bramble and wild- tlings, it’s denser and richer, spiced with cinnamon chocolate , smoke and char are enticing on the nose, mint notes perfume this elegant Syrah. It’s a fresh, and dusty earth tones. Striking acidity and firm, amplifying flavors of cassis liqueur and plum on the finessed wine with pert cassis flavors and a zippy gripping tannins suggest it’s a bottle to hold till palate. It’s glossy and concentrated but not dense acidic backbone. The finish lingers on fine, chalky 2022 at least. It should drink well through 2035. in texture, elevated by zesty acidity and fine, firm tannins and hints of smoke and violet. Inviting Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. tannins. A bit primary in youth it should gain com- already it should improve through 2036. Terlato abv: 13% Price: $NA plexity 2022 and improve well beyond 2035. Group. —A.I. of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Chambeyron 2016 La Chavarine abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Crisply concentrated black- Maison Denuzière 2015 Côte-Rôtie. This berry and cassis are edged by sweet spice and bram- Domaine Chambeyron 2016 L’Angeline 95 profoundly perfumed Syrah offers heady ble in this wine. It’s slim in profile, but finessed 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Intensely ripe from nose to notes of dried sage, thyme and arid earth against a and freshly balanced, boasting a granitic core and palate, this open, ample Syrah offers juicy black- backdrop of succulent baked plum. Densely concen- fine, smooth tannins. It drinks nicely already but berry and cassis flavors. It’s plump but richly con- trated black-fruit flavors seem edged by spicy notes will gain depth through 2030. APS Wine & Spirits. centrated, edged by silky, soft tannins that linger on of chocolate and cinnamon. It’s a taut, firmly struc- —A.I. the finish. It drinks well already but should improve tured wine with bristling acidity and fine-grained abv: 13% Price: $NA through 2030. APS Wine & Spirits. —A.I. but chewy tannins. Best hold till 2021—it’s a wine abv: 13.5% Price: $NA that will improve over the long haul. Boutique Wine Domaine de Bonserine 2016 La Garde (Côte- Collection. —A.I. 94 Rôtie). Invigorating acidity and cooling Domaine de Rosiers 2016 Coeur de Rose abv: 13% Price: $NA granite tones juxtapose rich, baked cherry and plum 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Dark char, iron and black pep- in this wine. It’s juicy and intensely primary in its per lend an earthen tone to sultry black cherry and Vignobles Verzier 2016 Indiscrète (Côte- youth but hints of bramble, bayleaf and lemon ver- plum in this wine. It’s richly concentrated and stud- 95 Rôtie). Stunning violet and lilac fragrance bena add earthen complexity. Firm, fine tannins ded with piquant notes of vanilla, anise and nut- introduces this immediately approachable yet lend grip to a long finish. This well-balanced wine meg, but vibrantly balanced too. A bit flamboyant in finessed Syrah. Made from 95% Syrah blended with should drink well through 2035. Frederick Wild- its youth it’s structured enough to gain balance and 5% Viognier, it offers unctuous doses of blackberry man & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. finesse through 2035. Misa Imports.Cellar Selec- flavor edged by granite and iron. Irresistible already abv: 13% Price: $125 tion. —A.I. it should improve well through 2030 and hold fur- abv: 13% Price: $NA ther. Beaune Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Domaine de Bonserine 2016 La Serrasine abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Layers of smoke, charred meat Domaine Martin Clerc 2016 Coteaux de Tupin and peppercorn extend a savory contour to luscious 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Fragrances of violet and rose Xavier Gérard 2016 Côte-Rôtie. Crushed blackberry and cassis in this wine. It’s sumptuously juxtapose smoke and graphite in this opulent, con- 95 granite, smoke and bramble introduce pen- textured but held upright by strikes of acidity and centrated wine. Blackcurrant flavors are ripe but etrating black-cherry and plum flavors in this pierc- firm, persistent tannins. A bit tight and unyielding pristine, highlighted by strikes of acidity and fine, ing Syrah. It’s a powerful, firmly structured wine in its youth it should meld beautifully in a few years integrated tannins. An immediately approach- edged by strikes of zesty acidity and persistent but and continue to improve through 2035. Frederick able but elegant wine with an undulating finish, it chalky tannins. Aromatic intensity and complexity Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I. should drink beautifully through 2035. Shiverick should improve with time. Hold till 2022 at least. abv: 13% Price: $75 Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.8% Price: $71 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine de Bonserine 2016 La Viallière 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Notes of bramble and greener Domaine Pichat 2016 Champon’s (Côte- Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2015 La inflections of pine and fresh herb lend freshness to 95 Rôtie). While slender in profile, concen- 94 Chana (Côte-Rôtie). A splash of 7% Viog- blackberry and cassis in this wine. It’s glossy in tex- trated blackberry and cassis flavors reverberate nier lends glorious violet and lilac undertones to ture but sprightly in feel without too much weight through this piercing Syrah. It’s smoky and per- this silken Syrah. It has an immediately approach- and fleshiness. An invigorating sip, it offers vibrant fumed, accented by hints of licorice, lavender and able plumpness accentuated by soft, silky tannins acidity and fine, lingering tannins that extend the violet. Primary fruit and floral tones as well as ripe, and a long, perfumed finish. Lovely already it should finish. Inviting already it should hold through 2035. integrated tannins are attractive now but the wine improve through 2030. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Edi- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $97 abv: 13% Price: $NA

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Domaine de Bonserine 2015 La Garde (Côte- bramble lend a shadowy contour to cassis and Maison Denuzière 2016 J. Denuzière (Côte- 94 Rôtie). Sourced from 60- to 80-year-old blackberry in this wine. Luscious and powerfully 93 Rôtie). Opulent notes of roasted plum and vines in the Cote Brune, this wine suggests char- fruity, it maintains a dusty, earthen edge and fine- black cherry, smoke and violet perfume the nose of acteristic notes of intensely baked black plum grained but gripping tannins. Still a bit closed in this wine. The palate is decadent and silky, concen- and cherry flavors, but also earth, mushroom and character, the wine should improve from 2020 to trated in black-fruit flavors and trailed with a long, smoke. Lavish oak tones of sweet spice, vanilla and 2030 and hold further. J.A.E. Wine Imports. Cellar charry finish. With fresh fruit and smooth tannins chocolate are prominent now but there’s enough Selection. —A.I. it drinks well already but should gain savory charac- concentration and structure to let this bottling abv: 13% Price: $NA ter through 2030. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.I. meld through 2040. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Vidal-Fleury 2016 Brune et Blonde de Vidal- abv: 13% Price: $125 94 Fleury (Côte-Rôtie). A hint of violet per- NewRhône Millesimes 2016 Domaine Vernay fumes ripe but restrained black cherry and cassis 93 Daniel Roland et Gisèle (Côte-Rôtie). The Domaine de Rosiers 2016 Besset (Côte- notes in this wine. Concentrated black-fruit flavors nose of this wine is still a bit closed, dominated by 94 Rôtie). Made from 100% Syrah, this spicy, are nuanced by olive, smoke and earth. Vibrant darker notes of earth and smoke. Aeration and time violet-perfumed wine offers bold black cassis and and freshly balanced, the wine is framed by firm introduce ripe blackberry and cherry. The palate is cherry flavors marked by anise, cacao and iron. It’s tannins. It drinks impressively already and should primary and penetrating, marked by hints of bram- lavish and silky in texture but pertly balanced. The develop well through 2030. Frederick Wildman & ble, peppercorn and anise. Brisk acidity and fine, long finish is marked by fine, penetrating tannins. It Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. persistent tannins frame the finish. It’s best to hold drinks beautifully now but will continue to improve abv: 13.5% Price: $NA the wine till 2021 but it should improve through through 2030 and hold further. Misa Imports. —A.I. 2030. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2016 La abv: 13% Price: $NA 93 Germine (Côte-Rôtie). Tart blackberry and Domaine Martin Clerc 2015 Côte-Rôtie. cassis notes yield a zesty, slim profile. It offers a Ogier 2016 La Serine (Côte-Rôtie). Tones 94 Notes of lilac and violet perfume ruddier granitic edge and smoky inflections of char, cacao 93 of sun-baked garrigue, bramble and dried tones of baked plum and cherry on the nose of and sun-baked garrigue. This elegant wine with a earth accent sharp but concentrated cassis and this wine. Black-fruit flavors are opulent and ripe lingering violet finish will be enjoyable now through raspberry in this wine. Brisk and firmly tannic in but balanced by brisk acidity and fine, persistent 2035. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. its youth, it should meld and open with time. Hold tannins that leave chalky freshness on the finish. abv: 13% Price: $NA till 2022; it should improve through 2035. Domaine Lovely now for its unctuous, primary fruit, the wine Select Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —A.I. should develop savory complexities through 2035 Domaine de Rosiers 2016 Côte-Rôtie. Seduc- abv: 13% Price: $NA and hold further. Shiverick Imports. —A.I. 93 tive notes of char, smoke and chocolate abv: 13% Price: $66 mingle into ripe but restrained black cherry and Domaine de Bonserine 2015 La Viallière raspberry in this wine. It’s tight but densely con- 92 (Côte-Rôtie). While this single-vineyard Domaine Pichat 2016 Löss (Côte-Rôtie). centrated, anchored by racy acidity and firm, finely wine is initially quite closed and savory, aeration 94 Pristine, cutting flavors of black cherry and spread tannins. Hold till 2020. It should open with reveals whiffs of ripe blackcurrant and cherry. Fla- cassis accentuate the focused, slightly linear feel of a few more years cellaring and should develop nicely vors of black-cherry candy are penetrating on the this wine. Made from 92% Syrah and 8% Viognier, through 2030. Misa Imports. —A.I. palate, edged by granite and brightened by zippy it’s ripe but restrained, edged by zesty acidity and abv: 13% Price: $NA acidity. It’s a tense, inward-looking wine, now a fresh, mineral tone. Chalky, mouthfilling tannins framed by firm, puckering tannins,s but should ease extend the finish. Wait to drink till 2022 at least. It Domaine Pichat 2015 Champon’s (Côte- from 2021 and improve through 2030. Frederick should intensify aromatically and gain complexity 93 Rôtie). Vibrant blackberry flavors are tinged Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. through 2036 and hold further. The Wine House. by notes of violet candy and vanilla in this primary abv: 13.5% Price: $97 Cellar Selection. —A.I. but deeply concentrated wine. Zesty and held taut abv: 13% Price: $NA by firm, gripping tannins, it maintains a pure, long François Villard 2015 Le Gallet Blanc (Côte- finish. Hold till 2021—it should gain complexity and 92 Rôtie). Whiffs of pine fronds, dried thyme Domaine Pichat 2015 Les Grandes Places depth through 2030. The Wine House. —A.I. and bramble lend a herbaceous tone to ripe but 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Layers of coffee, sun-baked abv: 13% Price: $NA restrained black cherry and plum in this wine. earth and hay meander from nose to finish, lend- Brightly concentrated with firm acidity, it has ing a savory tone to concentrated cassis and cherry. François et Fils 2016 Côte-Rôtie. Crisp-tart tight, taut tannins that reverberate on the finish. This wine is forward in fruit yet earthen and 93 blackberry and cassis are framed by fine, Still a bit closed it should open nicely from 2021 complex, anchored by bold acidity and tight, pen- chalky tannins and bristling acidity in this wine. and continue to improve through 2035. J.A.E. Wine etrating tannins. Hold till 2021; it should improve It’s restrained but elegant, accented by firm tones of Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I. through 2035 and likely further. The Wine House. granite, bramble and sun-baked herbs. The finish is abv: 13% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. —A.I. long and refreshingly pure. Enjoy now–2035. Paris abv: 13% Price: $NA Wine Company. —A.I. Gabriel Meffre 2015 Laurus (Côte-Rôtie). abv: 13% Price: $80 92 Black cherry and plum flavors are lus- François et Fils 2016 Rozier (Côte-Rôtie). cious in this crisp, penetrating Syrah. Approach- 94 Notes of char, sun-baked earth and iron François Villard 2016 Le Gallet Blanc (Côte- ably fresh and fruity, it maintains a silkiness and seep into plump notes of blackcurrant in this wine. 93 Rôtie). Pristine blackberry and cherry fla- charry, smoky savoriness that’s classic Côte-Rôtie. It’s rich and dense in mouthfeel, but balanced by a vors are crisp and cutting in this more classically Ripe, integrated tannins accentuate its immediately zesty spine of acidity and fine, chalky tannins. The restrained expression of Côte-Rôtie. It’s freshly con- accessible style. Vision Wine & Spirits. —A.I. wine finishes long with hints of licorice and cacao. centrated but nuanced, edged by whiffs of bramble, abv: 13% Price: $NA Enjoy now–2035. Paris Wine Company. —A.I. char and sage that penetrate through a long, chalky abv: 13% Price: $65 finish. Enjoy now–2035. J.A.E. Wine Imports. —A.I. Ogier 2016 Héritages (Côte-Rôtie). Concen- abv: 13% Price: $NA 92 trated flavors of black-cherry preserve and François Villard 2016 La Brocarde (Côte- crème de cassis contrast with acidity and bristling 94 Rôtie). Whiffs of iron, dried rosemary and notes of green herb and bramble in this penetrat-

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BUYINGGUIDE ing wine. It needs to meld. Hold till 2022; it should cherry flavors are concentrated but spry, edged by Fayolle Fils & Fille 2016 Les Dionnieres (Her- reward cellaring through 2035. Domaine Select hints of violet, bramble and fresh nettle. Fine but 92 mitage). The nose of this wine is quiet, sug- Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —A.I. grippy, persistent tannins mark the finish. This ele- gesting faint whiffs of ripe black cherry, smoke and abv: 13% Price: $NA gant wine is enjoyable already but should improve cookie crumbs. It’s not a powerhouse but elegant, through 2035. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. offering freshly concentrated red plum and black- Domaine Martin Clerc 2016 Côte-Rôtie. abv: 13.5% Price: $99 berry flavors layered with fine, silky tannins. Enjoy 91 Savory, herbaceous notes of bramble, char now–2035. —A.I. and cigarette ash mingle into rich, roasted plum Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2015 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 on the nose and palate of this wine. It’s ample and 94 Hermitage. Prominent notes of smoked weighty in feel, structured by firm acidity and taut, meat and charred earth accent luscious blackberry Gabriel Meffre 2015 Laurus (Hermitage). nervous tannins. It needs more time to open. Enjoy and cassis in this luxurious, full-throttled Hermit- 92 Blackberry and black currant are crisply 2022–2030. Shiverick Imports. —A.I. age. It’s densely fruity yet glossy on the palate. Soft, concentrated in this wine, but obscured in their abv: 13% Price: $66 supple tannins extend on the finish. It’s inviting youth by lavish notes of toast, vanilla and anise. It’s already but should develop greater nuance through firmly structured, however, with brisk acidity and Ravoire et Fils 2016 Côte-Rôtie. Plush, 2030 and hold further. Frederick Wildman & Sons, fine, persistent tannins suggesting greater balance 89 immediately accessible flavors of preserved Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. with time. Best hold till 2021; it should drink well black cherry and plum are marked by prominent abv: 14% Price: $NA through 2030. Vision Wine & Spirits. —A.I. tones of toast, vanilla and smoke in this wine. abv: 13% Price: $NA Smooth and supple on the palate, it also has a M. Chapoutier 2015 Monier de la Sizeranne sharply acidic edge and ripely integrated tannins. A 94 (Hermitage). Notes of moss, bramble and Yann Chave 2015 Hermitage. Black-cherry bottling to enjoy in its youth, it should hold through leather lend earthen, meaty accents to rich, con- 92 and blackberry flavors are forward and 2023. Knows Imports. —A.I. centrated black plum in this wine. It’s full bodied fresh in this wine, accented by perfumed notes of abv: 13% Price: $NA and plummy but freshly balanced on the palate. The violet, anise and black pepper. Immediately inviting finish is bold, lingering on firm, gripping tannins. it offers a pristine fruit character, pert acidity and It’s at its peak now through 2030 but should hold fine, integrated tannins. Enjoy now–2030. Wey- HERMITAGE further still. Terlato Wine Group. —A.I. gandt-Metzler. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Belle 2015 Hermitage. Perfumed 95 notes of sandalwood, smoke and tobacco Domaine du Colombier 2016 Hermitage. Domaine des Remizières 2016 Cuvée Emilie envelop fig and boysenberry flavors in this wine. It’s 93 Spicy, perfumed notes of sandalwood, 90 (Hermitage). Notes of blackberry candy voluptuous and hedonistic, full of warming spice smoke and violet accent pristine black cherry in this and violet perfume are prominent in this plush, and smoke tones, but balanced freshly and lingering richly textured, supple Syrah. Plush, inviting tan- accommodating Hermitage. It’s irresistibly juicy on soft, chalky tannins. Irresistible already it should nins accentuate its open, approachable demeanor. and open, edged by fine, feathery tannins and pli- improve through 2030 and hold further. DS Trading Ready to drink now, it should hold through 2030. ant acidity. The wine is ready now and best enjoyed Co. —A.I. The Source. —A.I. young French Libation. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA

Domaine des Remizières 2015 Cuvée Emilie Ferraton Père et Fils 2015 Les Miaux (Hermit- 95 (Hermitage). Black cassis and dark choco- 93 age). Crisp black-cherry and currant notes CORNAS late meld harmoniously in this powerful, sultry in this wine are subtle initially but gain ripeness wine. It’s massive on the palate, densely packed with time and aeration. It’s lusciously fruity yet Domaine Vincent Paris 2017 Le Geynale (Cor- with black-fruit flavors and piquant hits of licorice, balanced by acidity and intensely granitic mineral 97 nas). Le Geynale is the producer’s flagship bramble and earth. Brisk acidity and ripe but per- tones. The finish is long and penetrating, edged by Cornas sourced from top vineyard sites and old sistent tannins lend structure. This hedonistic sip is fine, gripping tannins and lingering notes of dried vines. Black-cherry and plum flavors are dense and ready now but should continue to improve through garrigue and bramble. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. potent but nuanced by violet perfume and layers of 2030 and hold further. French Libation. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $75 iron, graphite and dried herb. Ripe, integrated tan- Choice. —A.I. nins are appealing already but this massively com- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Maison Denuzière 2016 J. Denuzière (Hermit- plex wine begs further cellar age. It should reward 93 age). Blackberry and cassis are primary and drinking through 2040, likely further. Thomas Ferraton Père et Fils 2015 Les Dionnières plump in this open, inviting Hermitage. It’s forward Calder Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. 95 (Hermitage). For full review see page 4. Cel- in fruit but accented by faint whiffs hints of leather abv: 14% Price: $NA lar Selection. and earth too. Luscious fruit and easy tannins are abv: 13% Price: $108 contrasted by a tang of sharp acidity on the finish. Alain Voge 2016 Les Vieilles Vignes (Cornas). It’s ready now but should drink well through 2030. 96 Skeins of graphite and smoke provide an Cave de Tain 2015 Gambert de Loche (Her- Saranty Imports. —A.I. alluring introduction to this seductively fruity, con- 94 mitage). Heady notes of milk chocolate, abv: 13% Price: $NA centrated Syrah. Blackberry and mulberry flavors smoke and black pepper seep into luscious black- are vibrant yet concentrated, spiced with black pep- berry and mulberry flavors in this wine. A volup- Yann Chave 2016 Hermitage. Prominent per, leather and olive, edged by fine, supple tannins. tuous, glossy Syrah, it’s edged by ripe, fine-grained 93 notes of crushed granite and pine needles Irresistible already, the wine will improve through tannins and fresh acidity. While open and welcom- are offset by crisp blackberry and plum in this 2040. Citadel Trading. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. ing already, it should improve through 2030 and ripe but elegantly restrained wine. Full bodied yet abv: 13.5% Price: $NA hold further still. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. briskly balanced, it offers a long, brambly finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $205 It drinks well already but should improve through Alain Voge 2015 Les Vieilles Fontaines (Cor- 2035. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. 96 nas). Breathtaking aromas of violet, forest Cave de Tain 2015 Grand Classique (Hermit- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA floor and cracked peppercorns accent unctuous 94 age). The Grand Classique offers a zestier blueberry and plum on the nose of this wine. It’s expression of Hermitage. Ripe blackberry and rich and ripe, but with mineral tension and fresh-

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 ness of acidity that’s thrilling. This concentrated, Syrah. It’s ample and velveteen on the palate yet fresh but integrated acidity. It’s ready to drink now vibrant wine shows gripping tannins now but held upright by fine, penetrating tannins. Stunning but should gain savory complexities through 2030. should improve through 2035 and hold further. already but it should improve through 2035 and Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Citadel Trading. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. hold further. Boutique Wine Collection. Editors’ abv: 13.8% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Éric & Jöel Durand 2015 Prémices (Cornas). Domaine de Galuval 2015 Initiation (Cor- 95 Sultry and hedonistic, this fleshy Syrah 96 nas). Bright, uplifting acidity and fine, Maison Denuzière 2015 J. Denuzière (Cor- offers ample layers of plum and cherry shaded by firmly gripping tannins lend tension to the lus- 96 nas). Whiffs of blackcurrant candy and smoky tones of granite, sun-baked earth and cured cious cassis and blackberry flavors of this wine. It’s violet abound on this gorgeously perfumed Syrah. meat. The unctuous, mouthwatering style is aug- juicy and deeply fruity but nuanced by rustic tones It’s plump yet pertly balanced, juxtaposing rich mented by plush acidity but it finishes firmly on a of sun-baked earth, underbrush and saddle. This black-cherry flavor against crisp acidity and layers bracing grip of tannins. Inviting already the wine inviting, complex wine drinks well already but will of wild thyme, granite and black pepper. Silken tan- should improve well through 2035. Fruit of the improve through 2035 and hold further. J. Strecker nins extend a long finish. Approachable already the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. wine will improve through 2030 and hold further. abv: 13.7% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Ferraton Père et Fils 2015 Les Grands Mûriers Éric & Jöel Durand 2016 Confidence (Cor- 95 (Cornas). For full review see page 5. Editors’ 96 nas). Whispers of smoked black tea, choc- Alain Voge 2015 Les Vieilles Vignes (Cornas). Choice. olate and charcuterie offset brighter violet and 95 Layers of charred meat, granite and anise abv: 13.5% Price: $62 blackberry in this wine. It’s unctuously ripe and lend complexity to blackberry and cherry on the 18 months aging in barriques lend a spicy warmth nose of this wine. Despite the ample fruit it main- M. Chapoutier 2015 Les Arènes (Cornas). throughout, but brisk acidity and a crush of gran- tains an earthen, mineral undertone and long fin- 95 Violet, char and iron notes lend sultry per- ite minerality lend impeccable balance. Enjoy this ish with ripe, persistent tannins. This riveting wine fume to pristine cassis on the palate of this sump- potent but stately wine now through 2040. Fruit of should open and meld over the next decade and hold tuous Syrah. Rich and glossy in mouthfeel, it main- the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. further. Citadel Trading. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. tains a vibrant edge of acidity and taut, penetrating abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA tannins. Gorgeous already the wine will continue to develop through 2035 and hold further. Terlato Éric & Jöel Durand 2016 Empreintes (Cor- Domaine Michelas St Jemms 2015 Les Wine Group. —A.I. 96 nas). Aromas of baked plum and cherry 95 Murettes (Cornas). Enticing wild mint and abv: 13% Price: $NA mingle into leather, sun-baked earth and sage in bramble notes accent blackberry and plum in this this intensely perfumed Syrah. Bright, bristling full-bodied yet vibrantly balanced Cornas. Pure, Alain Voge 2016 Les Chailles (Cornas). black-fruit flavors and firm tannins pierce through pristine black-fruit flavors penetrate on the palate, 94 Within Alain Voge’s spectacular lineup of the palate, extending into a smoky, mineral fin- rimmed by gripping, slightly chewy tannins that wines, Les Chailles suggests a fresher, more youth- ish. It’s stunning already but will gain even greater should meld beautifully by 2023. Hold back a few ful expression of Cornas, highlighting pristine, pri- complexity and nuance through 2035. Fruit of the years and watch this stunner develop through 2035. mary blackcurrant and cherry flavors. Whispers of Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. Wines of France Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. leather and an intense granitic backdrop, however, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA confirm the producer’s trademark complexities. Enjoyed now, it’s vibrant and freshly fruited but Éric & Jöel Durand 2015 Confidence (Cornas). Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2015 should gain greater mineral and savory complexities 96 Vibrance and delicacy set this moderately 95 Cornas. Soft on its feet and plush in texture, through 2036. Citadel Trading. —A.I. full-bodied, silken Cornas apart from its more unc- this ripe, concentrated Syrah offers black-cherry abv: 13.5% Price: $NA tuous, heftier vintage peers. Savory tones of smoke, flavor spiced by anise, cacao and crushed black pep- granite, and bacon mingle into luscious black cherry percorns. Sunny acidity is augmented by chalky, Domaine Mucyn 2016 Aquilon (Cornas). and cassis on the palate. It’s juicy yet invigorat- mouthfilling tannins and a long, lingering finish. 94 Brisk and light on its feet, this unusually ingly balanced, calibrated by brisk acidity and firm, The wine is delicious now but will hold through sprightly Cornas highlights crisp-tart loganberry reverberating tannins. It drinks beautifully already 2035. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. and cherry flavors. It maintains the region’s trade- but should improve over the next two decades. Fruit abv: 14% Price: $NA mark smoke and earthen complexities, however, of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. along with piquant notes of cacao, pepper and can- abv: 14% Price: $NA Domaine Vincent Paris 2017 Granit 60 (Cor- died violet. The finish gains in weight, lingering on 95 nas). Sourced from vines averaging 60 glossier black-fruit flavors and fine, gripping tan- M. Chapoutier 2016 Collection Bio (Cornas). years in age and steeper slopes than the Granit 30, nins. Margaux & Company. —A.I. 96 This exuberant Syrah introduces itself with this bottling embodies the meatiness and brawn abv: 12.9% Price: $NA aplomb, wafting of luscious blackcurrant and plum, of Cornas while maintaining a thrilling freshness but also layers of espresso, clove and earth. It’s rich and mineral edge. Black plum and cassis flavors Domaine Vincent Paris 2017 Granit 30 (Cor- and mouthfilling, packed with juicy black-fruit fla- are ample and fleshy yet offset by crisp acidity and 94 nas). Initially restrained aromas of zesty vors edged by chanterelle and charred meats. Made fine, upright tannins. Welcoming already it should blackberry in this wine gain intricacies of rose petal, from organic grapes, it’s potent and complex but develop complexity through 2035 and likely fur- violet, graphite and dusty mineral. Sourced from freshly composed. The wine is irresistible now but ther. Thomas Calder Selections. Editors’ Choice. the producer’s younger vines and gentler slopes, its should improve through 2036. Terlato Wine Group. —A.I. black cherry and berry flavors are zesty and pure yet Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $NA anchored by granite and fine, persistent tannins. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Ready now the wine should improve through 2030 Éric & Jöel Durand 2015 Empreintes (Cor- and hold further. Thomas Calder Selections. —A.I. Maison Denuzière 2016 J. Denuzière (Cor- 95 nas). Intriguing notes of sandalwood, cacao abv: 13% Price: $NA 96 nas). Ripe, robust blackberry and plum bean and smoke intensify from nose to palate in this are edged by hints of candied violets, garrigue sun-drenched Syrah. Blackberry and cherry flavors Éric & Jöel Durand 2016 Prémices (Cornas). and tobacco box in this powerfully concentrated are lush, wrapped in layers of baby-soft tannins and 94 Fresh blackberry and boysenberry flavors

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BUYINGGUIDE are tight in this firmly structured Syrah. It’s pure Cave de Tain 2015 Grand Classique (Cornas). ances well with this fruitiness and the intense fla- in fruit but gorgeously nuanced with smoky tones of 92 Luscious blackberry and plum flavors are vors of the wine. Drink now. USA Wine West. —R.V. char and charcuterie as well as coarse, gripping tan- accented by smoke and graphite in intensely ripe abv: 13% Price: $15 nins. Still quite closed and juvenile it should open Cornas. It’s generous and rich in texture but elegant nicely from 2022 and improve well through 2036. still, anchored by brisk acidity and fine-grained, Cap Wine 2018 Riviera Bistro Rosé (Coteaux Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. persistent tannins. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. 86 Varois en Provence). Lightly spicy, this is a abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: NA Price: $60 fruity wine with touches of pepper as well as red- berry fruits. Properly pale in color, the wine has François Villard 2016 Jouvet (Cornas). This plenty of acidity and an attractive bite of orange 94 brooding, purple-hued Syrah offers con- SOUTHERN FRANCE zest. It is ready to drink. Bridge Imports. —R.V. centrated blackberry flavor edged by layers of sage, abv: 12% Price: $NA underbrush and graphite. It’s firm and stately on the ROSÉS palate, with brisk acidity and taut, penetrating tan- Ravoire et Fils 2018 Domaine Bois de la nins. Still a bit closed it should yield greater depth BANDOL 85 Neuve Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence). and complexity from 2021 through 2035. J.A.E. A simple, fruity blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Wine Imports. —A.I. Domaine de la Bégude 2018 L’Irréductible Rosé Syrah, this is light in both texture and fruitiness. abv: 13% Price: $NA 91 (Bandol). This is a rosé for aging. It offers The acidity and softness are attractive, easy and ripe spice and hints of tannin from the Mourvèdre ready to drink. Knows Imports. —R.V. M. Chapoutier 2016 Les Arènes (Cornas). and acidity that lies behind the tangy red-berry abv: 12.5% Price: $14 94 Although this wine is initially a bit quiet, fruits. The sense of structure is there as well, rein- layers of zesty raspberry, cassis, granite and gar- forcing the fact the wine needs time. Drink from rigue build on the bouquet. It’s silky and plush in 2021. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —R.V. CÔTES DE PROVENCE texture but vibrantly composed with crisp, con- abv: 14% Price: $40 centrated black cherry. Still tight and unyielding it Commanderie de Peyrassol 2018 Château should open and develop from 2022 and gain com- Ravoire et Fils 2018 Mas Thérèse Rosé (Ban- 90 Peyrassol Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This plexity through 2031. Terlato Wine Group. Cellar 90 dol). Spicy Mourvèdre gives this wine con- is the core rosé from the Commanderie, which has Selection. —A.I. centration while not losing sight of the fresh red- been on this site for 1,000 years. The high propor- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA currant fruitiness. The youthful texture suggests tion of Cinsault in the blend gives a ripe, red-fruit the wine could age beyond the summer. Drink from character that shoots through the lightly textured Cave de Tain 2015 Arènes Sauvages (Cornas). late 2019. Knows Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. wine. A crisp edge brings in bright acidity. Drink 93 Dusky whiffs of smoke, olive and leather abv: 13% Price: $23 now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. extend from nose to finish in this four-square Cor- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 nas. Black-cherry and berry flavors are crisp but Domaine de la Bégude 2018 Rosé (Bandol). concentrated, shaded by hints of earth and layers of 89 Produced mainly with Mourvèdre, this Les Maîtres Vignerons de Vidauban 2018 fine, sandy tannins. It’s quite appealing already but orange-pink-colored wine is smooth and ripe. It has 87 Olema Rosé (Côtes de Provence). With 50% will improve through 2030 and hold further. Hand a feeling of fullness, with flavors of concentrated Grenache, this is a brisk wine with juicy red-currant Picked Selections. —A.I. spice, caramel and red plum. The wine is likely to flavors. Its acidity and clean fruitiness are immedi- abv: 13% Price: $100 be ready from late 2019 or even 2020. Kysela Père ately attractive. Drink now. Amici Cellars. —R.V. et Fils. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Delas Frères 2016 Chante-Perdrix (Cornas). abv: 13.5% Price: $33 93 While this wine is freshly balanced and Vanderpump 2018 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). framed by fine, taut tannins, rich blackberry and Moulin de la Roque 2018 Les Adrets Rosé 87 Properly pale in color, this fruity wine is cherry flavors drench the palate. It’s an unctuous 88 (Bandol). Mainly Mourvèdre with a touch crisp with acidity and red-currant flavors. With a but elegant wine, with a long finish edged by her- of Cinsault and Grenache, this wine is warm, ripe light hint of caramel to add richness, the wine is full baceous tones of underbrush and bramble. Maisons and fruity. Red-berry flavors have a smoky edge as and ready to drink. Palm Bay International. —R.V. Marques & Domaines USA. —A.I. well as crisp perfumed acidity, giving richness and abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA freshness at the same time. The wine is ready to drink. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —R.V. Xavier Flouret 2018 Nationale 7 Rosé (Côtes M. Chapoutier 2015 Collection Bio (Cornas). abv: 13% Price: $21 87 de Provence). Produced at Château des 93 Made from organic grapes, this is a seduc- Demoiselles in the famed Esclans Valley, this wine tively perfumed Syrah shaded by savory tones of COTEAUX VAROIS EN is lightly yeasty while also being full of bright red- smoked meat, cacao and sun-dried herbs. Pristine currant flavors. Pierced with acidity, the wine is still black-fruit flavors are powerfully concentrated yet PROVENCE young and will benefit from a few months bottle briskly balanced, framed by a grip of raspy tannins aging. Drink from late 2019. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. and vibrant acidity. It’s a lovely wine to enjoy now Ravoire et Fils 2018 Domaine Champelle abv: 13% Price: $21 through 2030. Terlato Wine Group. —A.I. 89 Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence). This abv: 13.5% Price: $NA wine is as pale in color as possible, virtually white. By contrast the palate has plenty of fruit, a ripe tex- CÔTES DU RHÔNE Vidal-Fleury 2016 Cornas. In this wine, ripe ture and layers of acidity and red-berry flavors. It is 93 but crisply concentrated blackberry and a fruity wine, fresh and ready to drink now. Lieber Famille Lançon 2018 La Solitude Rosé (Côtes cherry flavors are edged by hints of pine resin, earth Bros Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 89 du Rhône). Pale pink in color, this dry rosé and granite. It’s a tight, firmly composed wine with abv: 13% Price: $13 made from Syrah grapes opens with perfumed notes fine, gripping tannins but a long, piercing finish. of cherry blossoms and fresh raspberries. Sour- Hold till 2021 but the wine should improve through Château Routas 2018 Routas Rosé (Coteaux cherry and strawberry flavors are briskly concen- 2030. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. 88 Varois en Provence). This is a fuller style of trated and edged by a layer of chalky minerality. It’s abv: 13.5% Price: $NA rosé, with ripe strawberry flavors. The acidity bal-

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 a refreshing, quaffable sip to last the warm-weather Domaine des Diables 2018 Les Petits Diables woodland berry, new leather and cake spice along months. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —A.I. 86 Rosé (Mediterranée). A crisp, lightly herbal with a whiff of camphor. It’s focused and delicious, abv: 13% Price: $13 wine full of aromatic red fruits, this is light and with juicy Marasca cherry, star anise, clove and bright. With its tangy aftertaste it will make a fine mocha flavors framed in taut, fine-grained tannins M. Chapoutier 2018 Belleruche Rosé (Côtes summer rosé. Drink now. Artisan Wines, Inc. —R.V. and bright acidity. Drink 2026–2036. Panebianco. 89 du Rhône). Salmon pink in hue, this full- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Editors’ Choice. —K.O. bodied but crisply balanced rosé offers pert red- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cherry and raspberry flavors accented with thyme Château de l’Escarelle 2018 Palm Rosé (Med- and rosemary. Dry and refreshingly mineral, it’s a 85 iterranée). A full, fat style of wine with ripe Sottimano 2016 Cottà (Barbaresco). Red thirst-quenching wine to enjoy now through the strawberry flavors and spicy acidity, this is also 97 berry, violet, forest floor, vanilla and bal- end of 2019. Terlato Wines International. —A.I. smoothly textured. It is ripe with just a touch of samic aromas of menthol and camphor slowly abv: 13.5% Price: $17 pepper. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V. appear on this stunning, radiant red along with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA whiffs of charcuterie. The vibrant, focused palate Arnoux & Fils 2018 Vieux Clocher Rosé (Côtes is young and taut but already impeccably balanced, 88 du Rhône). This pretty, pale-pink rosé offers evoking juicy red cherry, pomegranate, star anise a bright core of red-cherry and raspberry flavors OTHER ROSÉS and cool mint framed in firm acidity and tightly marked by whiffs of garrigue. It’s not a deeply con- knit but fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. centrated wine but juicy and effortlessly quaffable. Arnoux & Fils 2018 Vieux Clocher Rosé It’s already fantastic but will hold for even more A balanced summer sip, it has a crisp watermelon 90 (Ventoux). Loads of pristine raspberry, complexity. Best 2026–2036. Skurnik Wines, Inc. finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. sour cherry and blossom perfume this zesty, thirst- Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 quenching rosé. It’s a bit more finessed than the abv: 14% Price: $70 producer’s standard Côtes du Rhône rosé bottling, Famille Perrin 2018 Réserve Rosé (Côtes du with a concentrated core of watermelon and a brisk, Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2016 Basarin 88 Rhône). Flavors of sweet-tart raspberry and mineral finish. Enjoy this invigorating dry wine 96 (Barbaresco). Spearmint, black-skinned crisp watermelon rind are thirst quenching in this throughout the warmer months. Monsieur Touton berry, blue flower and new leather aromas lead the dry rosé made from Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. way along with whiffs of menthol. Tight and taut, and Syrah grapes. While full bodied and silky, it’s abv: 12.5% Price: $14 the elegant, structured palate delivers juicy black briskly concentrated, finishing with an invigorating cherry, crushed raspberry, wild herbs and white mineral tone. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. Campuget 2018 1753 Syrah-Vermentino Rosé pepper alongside assertive, close-grained tannins. abv: 13% Price: $14 89 (Costières de Nîmes). This dry rosé requires Bright acidity provides balance. Best 2024–2036. a few minutes of aeration to cast aside its darker, Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. Rhône to the Bone 2018 Selected Estates smokier notes. With just a bit of patience, however, abv: NA Price: $29 88 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Sunny raspberry it reveals crisp red-currant and watermelon flavors, and watermelon aromas in this wine are accented with an undertone of crystalline minerality. It’s Albino Rocca 2016 Angelo (Barbaresco). by a hint of sun-dried thyme. A blend of 80% Gre- briskly concentrated but quite refreshing. Dreyfus, 96 Rose petal, iris, dark-skinned berry and nache and 20% Syrah, it’s a freshly concentrated Ashby & Co. —A.I. spice aromas mingle with balsamic notes of cam- dry rosé with pristine cherry and strawberry fla- abv: 13% Price: $18 phor on this fragrant, stunning red. Elegantly struc- vors. The finish is brisk and thirst quenching. Tri- tured, the precise palate evokes cranberry, Marasca Vin Imports. —A.I. Campuget 2018 Tradition Rosé (Costières de cherry, star anise and thyme set against tightly abv: 13% Price: $14 88 Nîmes). Pale salmon in hue, this blend of knit but refined tannins and bright acidity. It’s a 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache is a bit smoky upon quintessential Barbaresco, with fantastic tension. opening but reveals pretty red-cherry and raspberry Drink 2024–2036. de Grazia Imports LLC. Editors’ MEDITERRANÉE perfume with aeration. While full bodied in style, Choice. —K.O. it’s a dry, crisply concentrated sip with pristine abv: 14.5% Price: $116 Château Roubine 2018 R de Roubine Rosé sour-cherry flavor and an invigorating finish. Drey- 87 (Mediterranée). A light wine full of soft fruit, fus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —A.I. Albino Rocca 2016 Ronchi (Barbaresco). this is perfumed and fresh. Acidity shines through abv: 13% Price: $11 96 Forest floor, new leather, underbrush and the blood-orange flavors to give a refreshing wine eucalyptus aromas mingle with a whiff of pepper- that is ready to drink. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. corn. On the full-bodied, focused palate, tightly abv: 13% Price: $20 PIEDMONT knit, noble tannins and bright acidity frame juicy Morello cherry, licorice, tobacco and a hint of truf- Château Sainte-Béatrice 2018 Cuvée des BARBARESCO fle. Drink 2026–2036. Cellar Selection. de Grazia 86 Princes Rosé (Mediterranée). Carignan Imports LLC. —K.O. makes an appearance in the blend of this wine La Ca’ Nova 2016 Montestefano (Bar- abv: 14.5% Price: $71 alongside Cinsault and Grenache. That adds extra 97 baresco). Forest floor, red berry, leather spiciness and emphasizes red-berry fruits in a wine and pipe tobacco aromas are front and center. The Castello di Neive 2016 Barbaresco. Rose, that is fresh and ready to drink. Quintessential intense, full-bodied palate offers impressive struc- 96 violet, just-tilled vineyard soil and per- Wines. —R.V. ture and finesse, delivering succulent Marasca fumed berry are just some of the aromas you’ll find abv: 13% Price: $15 cherry, cinnamon, star anise and a hint of hazelnut on this dazzling, fragrant red. The elegant, delicious alongside assertive but noble tannins and vibrant palate is chock-full of elegance and flavor, delivering Domaine de la Sanglière 2018 Juliette acidity. It already shows focus and depth, but give it juicy Morello cherry, raspberry compote, cake spice 86 Rosé (Mediterranée). This fruity blend of time to fully bloom. Drink 2026–2038. Weygandt- and a balsamic note. It boasts fantastic tension and Grenache and Syrah has aromas of wild herbs and Metzler. Cellar Selection. —K.O. finesse, and will be even better with more bottle fresh peaches, while the flavors bringing out a crisp, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA age. Gorgeous. Drink 2026–2036. LLS–Winebow. herbal character. The wine is crisp, light and ready Cellar Selection. —K.O. to drink. Turquoise Life. —R.V. Musso 2016 Pora (Barbaresco). This has a abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 97 lovely, alluring nose that evokes rose, iris,

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Giuseppe Cortese 2016 Rabaja (Barbaresco). fully open up and develop. Drink 2026–2041. LLS– elegance, while bright acidity keeps it focused and 96 Aromas of underbrush, camphor, violet, Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. balanced. Drink 2026–2036. Vias Imports. Cellar dark culinary spices, new leather and dark-skinned abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Selection. —K.O. fruit lead the way. The structured, full-bodied abv: 14.5% Price: $45 palate shows juicy red cherry, raspberry, orange Castello di Verduno 2016 Barbaresco. New zest, ground clove, star anise and truffle alongside 95 leather, menthol, red-skinned fruit and Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2016 Bar- fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. It boasts dark spice aromas form the nose along with enticing 94 baresco. Vineyard dust, violet and wild elegance and structure. Drink 2024–2036. LLS– whiffs of vineyard dust. The linear, savory palate is raspberry aromas mingle with notes of dark culi- Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. still young but already boasts succulent red cherry, nary spices on this fragrant red. Juicy red cherry, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 crushed raspberry, star anise and clove while taut, clove, licorice and orange zest aromas are framed in refined tannins and bright acidity provide finesse bright acidity, while elegant, taut tannins provide Nada Giuseppe 2016 Casot (Barbaresco). and freshness. Drink 2022–2036. Polaner Selec- the backbone. Drink 2022–2031. Skurnik Wines, 96 For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. tions. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $35

Rizzi 2016 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Red berry, Figli Luigi Oddero 2016 Rombone (Bar- Cascina Alberta 2016 Giacone (Barbaresco). 96 rose, menthol, new leather, cracked pepper 95 baresco). Black-skinned berry, iris, leather, 94 Aromas of new leather, ripe plum, vanilla and wild herb aromas come together on this. Linear, hazelnut and menthol aromas whiff of forest floor. and mocha mix with the barest hint of nail polish. elegant and youthfully austere, the palate delivers The smooth, full-bodied palate shows tension and The aromas carry over to the full-bodied palate red cherry, pomegranate, licorice and star anise finesse, offering fleshy black cherry, espresso and along with juicy black cherry and licorice. It boasts framed in tight, close-grained tannins and racy licorice alongside fine-grained tannins and fresh body and flavor. Drink through 2031. Cherio Hold- acidity before an orange zest finish. Drink 2026– acidity. Drink 2021–2030. Ionia Atlantic Imports, ing & Trading. —K.O. 2036. The Sorting Table. —K.O. LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Cascina Luisin 2016 Paolin (Barbaresco). Rizzi 2014 Boito Riserva (Barbaresco). Clas- La Ca’ Nova 2016 Barbaresco. Aromas of 94 Rose, menthol, wild herb and forest berry 96 sic Nebbiolo aromas of wild red berry, rose 95 game, new leather, humid forest floor and aromas lead the nose. Linear and elegantly struc- petal, star anise and a whiff of aromatic herbs are ripe berry mingle with whiffs suggesting cake spice tured, the savory palate is loaded with finesse, front and center on this full-bodied red. Reflecting and violet. The juicy, earthy palate is savory and offering wild cherry extract, licorice and orange zest the nose, the structured palate doles out juicy red loaded with personality, doling out fleshy Marasca framed in firm, refined tannins. Bright acidity lends cherry, pomegranate, licorice and a hint of tobacco cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and a salty balance and tension. Drink 2024–2036. Artisan alongside tightly knit, polished tannins and vibrant mineral note. Tightly woven but polished tannins Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —K.O. acidity. It’s still youthfully austere with good aging and fresh acidity provide the framework, while a abv: 14% Price: $70 potential. Drink 2022–2029. The Sorting Table. licorice note lingers on the close. Drink 2024–2036. —K.O. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Fontanabianca 2016 Barbaresco. For full abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $50 Ada Nada 2016 Rombone Elisa (Barbaresco). Michele Chiarlo 2016 Asili (Barbaresco). 95 Ripe black-skinned fruit, new leather, rose 95 Underbrush, camphor and black-skinned Marchesi di Barolo 2016 Serragrilli (Bar- and spice aromas fill the glass. Concentrated and fruit aromas lead the nose along with fragrant blue 94 baresco). Aromas of rose petal, red berry, juicy, the succulent, savory palate shows fleshy flowers. The structured, racy palate is focused, camphor and wild herb shape the nose. The lin- Marasca cherry, raspberry jam, vanilla, licorice and vibrant and youthfully austere, offering red cherry, ear, precise palate offers cranberry, sour cherry, tobacco alongside firm, noble tannins. Fresh acidity crunchy cranberry, vanilla, truffle and a hint of espresso and licorice alongside close-grained tan- lends balance. Delicious. Best 2024–2036. Rosen- game alongside firm acidity and fine-grained tan- nins and vibrant acidity. It’s elegant and focused. thal Wine Merchant. —K.O. nins. Drink 2026–2036. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $77 abv: 14% Price: $80 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2016 Sanadaive Michele Chiarlo 2016 Reyna (Barbaresco). 95 (Barbaresco). Enticing scents of under- Negro Giuseppe 2016 Pian Cavallo (Bar- 94 This opens with earthy aromas of leather, brush, tilled earth, wild rose and woodland berry 95 baresco). Rose petal, sunbaked earth, wild forest floor, game and balsamic notes of camphor. align with balsamic notes of cool menthol. The lin- herb and woodland berry aromas come together The elegant, taut palate evokes dried cherry, cran- ear, elegant palate offers red cherry, raspberry, white on this linear, structured red. Vibrant and precise, berry, fennel and tobacco alongside tightly knit pepper and tobacco alongside taut, refined tannins. the palate shows intriguing tension, doling out red tannins and vibrant acidity. Give it time to fully It’s all about focus and finesse. Drink 2024–2036. cherry, pomegranate, star anise and white pepper develop. Drink 2024–2036. Kobrand. Cellar Selec- Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. It’s balanced, tion. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30 with bright acidity. Franciacorta Imports. Editors’ abv: 14% Price: $45 Choice. —K.O. Castello di Neive 2016 Albesani Santo Ste- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Pertinace 2016 Nervo (Barbaresco). Star 95 fano (Barbaresco). This firmly structured, 94 anise and black-skinned berry aromas focused red offers aromas of red berry, fragrant Produttori del Barbaresco 2016 Barbaresco. mingle with notes of new leather and underbrush. blue flowers, menthol, oak and spices. The asser- 95 Enticing aromas of violet, woodland berry, Focused, elegant and structured, the palate offers tive palate evokes cranberry, sour cherry, star anise, loose vineyard soil, wild mint and a hint of spear- ripe black cherry, licorice, grated clove and tobacco underbrush and orange zest set against tightly knit, mint shape the intensely fragrant nose. The tense, framed by firm, fine-grained tannins and youthfully close-grained tannins that leave a rather drying fin- young palate is still nervous but already boasts nervous acidity. It boasts a great mix of structure ish, while racy acidity lends balance. It’s still tight finesse, showing wild raspberry, crunchy red cherry, and elegance, tension and focus. Drink 2022–2036. and youthfully austere, so give it ample time to white pepper and star anise. Firm, refined tannins MW Imports. —K.O. and racy acidity give it a linear, almost austere abv: 14% Price: $60

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Rivetti Massimo 2016 Froi (Barbaresco). a few more years to unwind and develop even more Ada Nada 2016 Valeirano (Barbaresco). Oak, 94 Fragrant blue flowers, wild berry, new complexity. Drink 2022–2036. Alba Distribution. 92 underbrush, hazelnut and porcini mush- leather and an earthy whiff of game shape the nose. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. room aromas mingle with plum, herb and vanilla. Linear and precise, the focused palate delivers dried abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Tight and concentrated, the assertive palate offers black cherry, tobacco, vanilla and star anise along- black cherry, mocha and licorice while close-grained side fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink La Ganghija 2016 Barbaresco. Leather, tilled tannins leave a drying finish. Rosenthal Wine Mer- 2022–2036. Private Reserve Fine Wines. —K.O. 93 earth, grated clove and black cherry aro- chant. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 mas take center stage along with a whiff of fragrant abv: 14.5% Price: $NA blue flower. The taut, velvety palate doles out rasp- Bera 2016 Barbaresco. Rose petal, crushed berry extract, ripe cranberry, tobacco and licorice Alessandro Rivetto 2016 Barbaresco. 93 mint, woodland berry and tilled soil aromas alongside firm acidity and close-grained tannins 92 Pressed rose, wild berry, leather and a bal- float above the glass along with notes of cinnamon that leave a drying finish. Drink 2024–2032. Vias samic note of camphor lead the nose along with a and the merest whiff of game. The focused palate Imports. —K.O. whiff of hazelnut. It has a juicy concentration for boasts finesse and precision, offering raspberry abv: 14.5% Price: $57 the vintage, doling out juicy cherry extract, black compote white pepper fennel and clove. Vibrant raspberry and licorice, while tightly wound tan- acidity and taut, noble tannins provide finesse and Lodali 2016 Rocche dei 7 Fratelli (Bar- nins provide the backbone. Fresh acidity brightens longevity. Drink 2024–2028. Winebow. Editors’ 93 baresco). Delicate but enticing scents of the rich flavors. Drink 2024–2034. Nicola Biscardo Choice. —K.O. forest floor, woodland berry, wild rose and crushed Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 herbs form the nose along with a balsamic note of abv: 14.5% Price: $NA menthol. Enveloping and elegant, the precise pal- Cantina del Nebbiolo 2016 Barbaresco. ate evokes cherry extract, licorice and spearmint Fontanabianca 2016 Bordini (Barbaresco). 93 Underbrush, rose petal, menthol and framed in bright acidity and close-grained tannins. 92 Underbrush, balsamic notes, new leather wild berry aromas mingle with whiffs of vineyard Vino Veritas. —K.O. and rose aromas lead the nose. Tight and assertive, soil and aromatic herb. It’s sublimely elegant and abv: 14.5% Price: $29 the linear, full-bodied palate offers dried cherry, focused, evoking juicy red raspberry, red cherry, licorice and espresso framed in firm acidity and licorice and orange peel alongside tightly knit but Oddero 2016 Gallina (Barbaresco). Tight youthfully austere, close-grained tannins that leave fine-grained tannins. Vibrant acidity lends impec- 93 and focused, this opens with aromas of a tight, rather austere finish. Give this time to fully cable balance and an ageworthy structure. Hold for rose, new leather, wild berry and camphor. Racy unwind and open up. Ethica Wines. —K.O. even more complexity. Drink 2022–2036. Tricana and structured, the firm, linear palate offers sour abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. cherry, orange zest and sage alongside ground clove. abv: NA Price: $40 Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity Grasso Fratelli 2016 Vallegrande (Bar- provide support. Best 2022–2030 Polaner Selec- 92 baresco). Rose, perfumed red berry, wild Cantina del Nebbiolo 2016 Meruzzano (Bar- tions. —K.O. herb and new leather are just some of the aro- 93 baresco). Leather, forest floor, tobacco and abv: NA Price: $68 mas you’ll find on this fragrant wine. The vibrant, wild berry aromas form the nose. The firm, elegantly almost vivacious palate offers juicy Marasca cherry, structured palate offers mocha, plum, black cherry, Pertinace 2016 Barbaresco. Violet, rose mocha and licorice alongside taut, fine-grained tan- espresso and licorice framed in tightly knit, fine- 93 water, dark-skinned berry and spice aromas nins. Joe De Caro. —K.O. grained tannins and racy acidity before a graphite come together in the glass. The savory, focused pal- abv: 14% Price: $32 finish. Tricana Imports. —K.O. ate shows tension and precision, offering licorice, abv: 14.5% Price: $45 espresso and juicy black-skinned berry set against Bel Colle 2016 Pajorè (Barbaresco). For full assertive, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. 91 review see page 11. Carlo Giacosa 2016 Narin (Barbaresco). Rose, Drink 2022–2032. MW Imports. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 93 crushed herb, forest berry and tilled soil —K.O. aromas align with enticing whiffs of aromatic herb. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 De Forville 2016 Barbaresco. Earthy, almost Focused and boasting both tension and loads of fla- 91 funky aromas of withered rose, overripe vor, the elegant palate doles out crunchy red cherry, Rivetti Massimo 2016 Barbaresco. Game, dark-skinned fruit, moist soil and the merest hint pomegranate and sage alongside taut tannins and 93 dried rose petal, new leather, clove and cool of barnyard appear in the glass. The soulful palate vibrant acidity. Siena Imports. —K.O. menthol aromas slowly take shape on this linear red. mirrors the nose, offering game, cured meat, rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Reflecting the nose, the juicy, savory palate displays berry jam, hints of grilled herbs and leather along- an earthy elegance, doling out raspberry compote, side assertive, rather dusty tannins. It’s fresh, with Cascina Morassino 2016 Morassino (Bar- black cherry, cinnamon and a hint of cured meat bright acidity. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —K.O. 93 baresco). Black-skinned berry, wild herb while taut, noble tannins and vibrant acidity keep it abv: NA Price: $35 and rose aromas align with whiffs of cracked pep- balanced. Drink 2024–2036. Private Reserve Fine per and toasted spice. The full-bodied palate deliv- Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Piazzo 2016 Barbaresco. The nose is shy at ers juicy black cherry, raspberry jam, vanilla and abv: 14% Price: $35 91 first but eventually reveals dark-skinned tobacco while firm, fine-grained tannins provide the fruit, violet and culinary spice. Firmly structured, backbone. Fresh acidity lifts the finish. Great struc- Socré 2016 Barbaresco. Balsamic aromas of the palate is youthfully austere, revealing red cherry, ture and depth. Drink 2024–2034. Tosco Wines. 93 camphor mingle with scents of pressed rose, cranberry and star anise alongside close-grained —K.O. vanilla, dark-skinned berry and a whiff of dried aro- tannins and vibrant acidity. A hint of orange zest abv: 14.5% Price: $48 matic herb and game. On the focused palate, fresh marks the close. It’s still tightly wound and needs acidity and taut, fine-grained tannins frame dried time. Drink 2026–2036. Angelini Wine. —K.O. Francone 2016 I Patriarchi (Barbaresco). Vio- Morello cherry, sage and star anise. It’s balanced, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 93 let, clove, underbrush, new leather, menthol with firm acidity. Drink 2024–2034. AP Wine and tilled soil aromas take center stage. The full- Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Prunotto 2016 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). bodied palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, black abv: 14.5% Price: $36 91 Underbrush, toast, menthol, hazelnut and raspberry, licorice and a hint of tobacco alongside sour cherry aromas appear in the glass. The racy firm acidity and tight, fine-grained tannins. Give it palate evokes pomegranate, citrus rind and coffee

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BUYINGGUIDE bean before a tight, drying finish that suggests dried cherry alongside tight, close-grained tannins and Vite Colte 2016 La Casa in Collina (Bar- sage. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. firm acidity. A hint of sage closes the somewhat 89 baresco). Aromas of toasted hazelnut, cam- abv: 14% Price: $62 astringent finish. Give this time to unwind. Massa- phor and dark-skinned berry mingle with whiffs of nois Imports. —K.O. coconut. Tight and taut, the linear palate reflects Batasiolo 2016 Barbaresco. Pretty aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $NA the nose, offering espresso, dried sage, licorice and 90 of perfumed berry, fragrant blue flowers prune alongside assertive, close-grained tannins and vineyard dust shape the nose. The vibrant, lin- Pelissero 2016 Nubiola (Barbaresco). Aro- that leave a rather astringent finish. Opera Wine ear palate delivers crunchy red cherry, pomegran- 90 mas of French oak, vanilla, black-skinned Imports. —K.O. ate, star anise and a hint of white pepper alongside fruit and coconut lift out of the glass. The firm, con- abv: 14% Price: $35 bright acidity and taut but refined tannins. Drink centrated palate offers spiced plum, raspberry jam 2022­–2031. Total Beverage Solution. —K.O. and vanilla alongside the warmth of evident alco- Orlando Abrigo 2016 Montersino (Bar- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA hol and close-grained tannins that leave a rather 88 baresco). Oak, cracked dill and toast aro- lean, drying finish. Give the tannins a few years to mas mingle with leather, stewed plum and the mer- Boffa 2016 Barbaresco. Wild red berry, for- unwind, then drink to capture the fruit richness. est whiff of barnyard. The palate is concentrated, 90 est floor and vanilla aromas mingle with Vinifera Imports. —K.O. offering baked prune, vanilla and licorice alongside blue flower and a hint of resin. On the tightly wound abv: 14.5% Price: $49 close-grained, drying tannins. Enotria Wine Import. palate, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity —K.O. frame raspberry compote, white pepper and clove Prunotto 2016 Barbaresco. For full review abv: 14.5% Price: $55 before a drying finish. It’s rather closed and needs 90 see page 14. time to fully open. Glazer’s. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Pelissero 2016 Tulin (Barbaresco). Oak, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 88 coconut, toasted nut, spice, resin and prune Sassi San Cristoforo 2016 Barbaresco. Fen- aromas carry over to the palate, along with dried Cascina Saria 2016 Colle del Gelso (Bar- 90 nel, cracked clove, dried herb and woodland cherry, mocha, vanilla and sage. On the lean palate, 90 baresco). Dark-skinned fruit, truffle, fra- berry aromas mingle with a whiff of eucalyptus. assertive, astringent tannins and bright acidity pro- grant blue flower and wild herb aromas are front The linear palate evokes dried cherry, star anise, vide the framework before a raspy, drying finish. It’s and center. The structured palate delivers succulent espresso and hazelnut alongside dusty tannins and a bit shy on fruit richness so give the tannins a few Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and a hint of vanilla. Firm tannins leave a drying finish. years to unfold before drinking. Vinifera Imports. a hint of tobacco alongside the warmth of evident Best after 2022. Atlas Imports. —K.O. —K.O. alcohol. Taut, fine-grained tannins and vibrant abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 acidity lend focused support. Drink 2024–2036. Aventine Hill LLC. —K.O. Ca’Romè 2016 Chiaramanti (Barbaresco). Pelissero 2016 Vanotu (Barbaresco). Ripe abv: 15% Price: $60 89 Red-skinned berry, leather, balsamic aro- 88 black-skinned fruit, weedy underbrush mas and a toasted note lead the nose. The brawny and French oak aromas mingle with menthol and Grimaldi Luigino 2016 Manzola (Bar- palate offers Marasca cherry, raspberry jam, vanilla, vanilla. The assertive, concentrated palate shows 90 baresco). Forest floor, French oak, spiced sage and espresso alongside vigorous acidity and the spiced plum, vanilla and raspberry jam alongside plum and violet aromas take shape in the glass along heat of evident alcohol. Grainy tannins give it a dry- bright acidity and assertive, grainy tannins that with an earthy whiff of game. The gamy note follows ing, astringent close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. leave a drying, astringent finish. Vinifera Imports. over to the racy, vigorous palate along with fleshy abv: 15% Price: $NA —K.O. black cherry, vanilla and mocha while close-grained abv: 14.5% Price: $99 tannins provide the backbone. Enotec Imports, Inc. Ceretto 2016 Barbaresco. Dark-skinned —K.O. 89 fruit, truffle, fragrant blue flower and wild abv: 14.5% Price: $36 herb aromas are front and center. The structured NORTHEAST ITALY palate delivers succulent Marasca cherry, crushed Guido Rivella 2016 Barbaresco. This opens raspberry, star anise and a hint of tobacco alongside PINOT GRIGIO 90 with aromas evoking oak, toasted hazel- the warmth of evident alcohol. Taut, fine-grained nut, clove, menthol and a whiff of blue flower. The tannins and vibrant acidity lend focused support. Elena Walch 2017 Vigna Castel Ringberg assertive palate is linear and focused, offering sour Drink 2024–2036. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. 93 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). Structured and cherry, cranberry, roasted coffee bean and grilled abv: 14.5% Price: $90 elegant, this Pinot Grigio shows enviable class and herbs alongside drying, grainy tannins and firm pedigree. It opens with delicate scents of white acidity. K&L Wine Merchants. —K.O. Fletcher 2016 Recta Pete (Barbaresco). Aro- spring flowers, ripe pears and a whiff of dried Alpine abv: 14.5% Price: $50 89 mas of toasted hazelnut, French oak, dark- herbs while the round, polished palate delivers skinned fruit and clove dominate the nose. The creamy apple, honeydew and white almond. Fresh La Ganghija 2016 Giacosa (Barbaresco). linear, taut palate shows unripe pomegranate, sour acidity lifts the rich flavors, while a tangy mineral 90 Sawdust, dark-skinned fruit, spearmint cherry, espresso and star anise offset by tight, close- note suggesting saline lingers on the close. USA and camphor aromas appear in the glass. Smooth grained, drying tannins. Golden Vines. —K.O. Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and enveloping, the concentrated, full-bodied pal- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 ate offers ripe black cherry, vanilla and mocha alongside seasoned, solid tannins and the heat of Francone 2016 Gallina (Barbaresco). Aro- Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2018 Pinot Gri- evident alcohol before a licorice close. Vias Imports. 89 mas of truffle, leather, French oak and a 92 gio (Alto Adige). Here’s a fantastic expres- —K.O. whiff of orange zest lead the way. The austere pal- sion of Pinot Grigio that opens with enticing scents abv: 15% Price: $65 ate offers dried cherry, orange rind, licorice, roasted of spring wildflowers, white stone fruit and an coffee bean and vanilla alongside rather astringent inviting whiff of freshly baked bread. Savory and Pasquale Pelissero 2016 Cascina Crosa (Bar- tannins. You’ll also detect the warmth of evident medium bodied, the rounded palate offers ripe 90 baresco). Underbrush, espresso, toasted alcohol on the close. Alba Distribution. —K.O. green apple, yellow pear and lemon zest alongside hazelnut and French oak aromas come to the fore- abv: 15% Price: $40 a tangy mineral note. North Berkeley Imports. Edi- front. The assertive palate reflects the nose, offer- tors’ Choice. —K.O. ing oak, spearmint, licorice, orange zest and dried abv: 13.5% Price: $18

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Cantina Valle Isarco 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto eydew and a hint of lemon zest alongside fresh acid- pear, while tangy acidity gives it a bright close. 90 Adige Valle Isarco). Granny Smith apple, ity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. lemon drop and crushed stone aromas appear in the abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 glass along with a whiff of Alpine herbs. On the full- bodied palate, tangy acidity accompanies mature Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano Zenato 2018 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). yellow pear, lemon drop and a hint of graphite. A 88 2016 Sanct Valentin Pinot Grigio (Alto 87 Aromas of white stone fruits and yellow smoky note signals the close. Monsieur Touton Adige). Aromas of French oak, coconut and butter- spring flowers shape the nose. On the light-bod- Selection Ltd. —K.O. scotch lead the nose along with a whiff of mature ied palate, tangy acidity accompanies yellow pear, abv: 14% Price: $20 yellow apple. The palate is full bodied but lean in lemon zest and a hint of beeswax. LLS–Winebow. terms of fruit richness, offering oak-driven spice, —K.O. Alois Lageder 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). nut and a hint of lemon drop; you’ll also detect the abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 89 White stone fruit, almond and a whiff of warmth of alcohol. Winebow. —K.O. pressed Spanish broom shape the delicate nose. The abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Cavit 2018 Collection Pinot Grigio (Delle fresh, rounded palate doles out ripe apple, white 86 Venezie). This tangy white offers aromas peach and a hint of citrus before a juicy close. Dalla Castelfeder 2018 15 Pinot Grigio (Alto and flavors of green apple, citrus and honeydew. It’s Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. 88 Adige). Aromas of orchard fruits and yel- simple but well-made. Palm Bay International. Best abv: 13% Price: $16 low spring flowers mingle with a whiff of nut. The Buy. —K.O. rounded palate shows yellow apple, Bartlett pear abv: 12% Price: $9 Alois Lageder 2017 Porer Pinot Grigio (Alto and a hint of white almond before a juicy close. Bac- 89 Adige). Made with grapes grown according chanal Wine Imports. —K.O. Ponte 2018 Giò Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). to the principles of organic and biodynamic agri- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 86 Aromas of green apple and citrus carry on culture, this opens with subtle aromas suggesting to the fresh, light-bodied palate along with a hint mature white stone fruit, dried herb and crushed Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2017 Soll Pinot Gri- of green melon. It’s simple but well-made. Bottle stone. Mirroring the nose, the lean, linear palate 88 gio (Alto Adige). The nose is rather subdued Diplomacy. —K.O. presents unsweetened lemon drop, dried yellow but the ripe, full-bodied palate offers mature pear, abv: 12% Price: $13 apple slice and a hint of graphite. Dalla Terra Win- apple and peach. Oak-driven spice, including vanilla ery Direct. —K.O. and butterscotch provide backup before a bitter Cantina di Ora 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). abv: 12.5% Price: $26 almond close. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. 85 Aromas of Granny Smith apple follow over abv: 14.5% Price: $23 to the extremely simple, rather diluted palate. Juicy Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2017 Penoner acidity keeps it on its feet. —K.O. 89 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). Aromas of mature Kornell 2018 Gris Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). abv: 13% Price: $NA pear, citrus zest and a whiff of spice lead the nose. 88 Aromas of white stone fruit and spring The ripe, rounded palate offers ripe yellow apple, blossom waft out of the glass. On the rounded pal- citrus rind and a hint of vanilla before a bitter ate, tangy acidity brightens creamy pear and Granny PINOT BIANCO almond finish. North Berkeley Imports. —K.O. Smith apple. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 —K.O. Muri-Gries 2018 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). abv: 13.5% Price: $15 91 Aromas of white spring wildflowers, apple, Cantina Tramin 2017 Unterbner Pinot Gri- chamomile and a whiff of nut float above the glass. 89 gio (Alto Adige). Aromas of mature yellow Kossler 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). Ripe The rounded, medium-bodied palate offers creamy stone fruit, cedar and Alpine herbs lift out of the 88 pear, pressed yellow flowers and a yeasty yellow pear, unsweetened lemon drop and tangy glass. The aromas follow over to the taut, full- whiff of bread dough lead the way. It’s racy and mineral alongside fresh acidity. Polaner Selections. bodied palate along with oak-driven spice, coconut linear, offering mature yellow apple and hazelnut —K.O. and citrus rind before a butterscotch close. LLS– alongside fresh acidity. Wine Emporium. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 14% Price: $NA St. Pauls 2018 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Roeno 2016 Rivoli Pinot Grigio (Vigneti delle 91 Inviting aromas of ripe white stone fruit, Cantina Valle Isarco 2017 Aristos Pinot Gri- 88 Dolomiti). Aromas suggesting chamomile, baked bread and a hint of hazelnut waft out of the 89 gio (Alto Adige). Graphite, grilled herb and pressed Spanish broom and mature pear form the glass. Round and medium bodied, the elegant palate mature yellow pear aromas come together in the nose along with a whiff of citrus. The rounded yet delivers creamy yellow apple, mature pear, toasted glass. Reflecting the nose, the rounded, medium- light-bodied palate suggests lemon drop, butter- almond and a mineral note suggesting flint along- bodied palate offers ripe golden apple, white peach scotch and mature apricot before a bitter almond side fresh acidity. Ethica Wines. Editors’ Choice. and a tangy saline note. Fresh acidity lifts the finish. close. GLC Wines. —K.O. —K.O. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Alta Luna 2018 Pinot Grigio (Vigneti delle Alois Lageder 2017 Haberle Pinot Bianco Muri-Gries 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). 87 Dolomiti). Fruity aromas of green apple and 90 (Alto Adige). Aromas of toasted hazelnut, 89 Aromas of white stone fruits and white honeydew follow over to the tangy palate along with bread crust and white stone fruit form the nose. spring flowers lead the nose. Reflecting the aromas, a hint of almond. Bright acidity gives it a crisp fin- The round palate shows finesse and class, offering the juicy, tangy palate doles out yellow pear, Ren- ish. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. creamy yellow apple, brioche and white almond net apple and a mineral note evoking crushed oyster abv: 12.5% Price: $14 alongside fresh acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. shell. Polaner Selections. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2018 Pinot Grigio abv: 12% Price: $26 87 (Alto Adige). This has subtle aromas evoking St. Pauls 2018 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). lemon and green apple. The aromas follow through Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2018 Pinot 89 White stone fruits, spring wildflowers and to the straightforward palate along with Bartlett 90 Bianco (Alto Adige). Even though most a whiff of wild herbs shape the nose. The rounded, Pinot Biancos have subdued aromas, this has a medium-bodied palate offers ripe green apple, hon- lovely nose offering beeswax, white stone fruit and

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BUYINGGUIDE an enticing whiff of bread dough. The rounded if baked bread. The rounded, medium-bodied pal- side tangy acidity and the barest hint of flint. Bac- rather understated palate shows creamy yellow ate doles out creamy apple, ripe pear and a hint of chanal Wine Imports. —K.O. apple, white peach and beeswax alongside a hon- toasted hazelnut. North Berkeley Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20 eyed mineral note. Bright acidity keeps it nicely abv: 13.5% Price: $25 balanced. North Berkeley Imports. Editors’ Choice. Cembra 2018 Kerner (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). —K.O. Kettmeir 2018 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). 87 This offers aromas of apricot and a whiff of abv: 13.5% Price: $18 89 White stone fruits, spring wildflowers and white rose. The crisp, light-bodied palate suggests a whiff of bread dough all come together on this yellow peach and grapefruit alongside racy acidity. Cantina Tramin 2018 Moriz Pinot Bianco subtle, polished white. The tangy palate doles out Ethica Wines. —K.O. 90 (Alto Adige). Honeysuckle, white peach and mature green apple, pear and an almond note along- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA honeydew aromas take center stage on this expres- side fresh acidity. Santa Margherita USA. —K.O. sive white. The tangy, savory palate presents ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $22 yellow apple, mature pear and a hint of citrus along- RIESLING side fresh acidity and a mineral note reminiscent Kettmeir 2017 Athesis Pinot Bianco (Alto of crushed oyster shell. LLS–Winebow. Editors’ 89 Adige). Mature yellow apple, coconut and Abbazia di Novacella 2017 Praepositus Ries- Choice. —K.O. oak-driven spice aromas slowly take shape in the 95 ling (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Enticingly fra- abv: 13.5% Price: $19 glass. On the rather lean but structured palate, fresh grant, this stunning white opens with heady scents acidity lifts dried apricot, ripe grapefruit and thyme of yellow stone fruit, beeswax and Alpine herbs. The Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2017 Quintessenz before a butterscotch close. Santa Margherita USA. elegant, linear palate boasts great tension focus, 90 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Aromas of white —K.O. offering juicy ripe apricot, juicy citrus and a smoky stone fruits, spring wildflowers and a whiff of honey abv: 14% Price: $28 flint note alongside tangy acidity. It’s mesmeriz- all mingle together. On the rounded, structured pal- ingly delicious and alluring, with a bone-dry finish. ate, a mineral hint of graphite accompanies mature Pfitscher 2017 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Abbazia di Novacella USA. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. yellow apple and peach. Omniwines Distribution. 89 Subtle aromas of white stones fruit and abv: 13% Price: $30 —K.O. spring flowers float out of the glass. The palate abv: NA Price: $46 is elegant and subdued, suggesting yellow apple, Cantina Valle Isarco 2017 Aristos Riesling Bartlett pear and a hint of white almond alongside 91 (Alto Adige). This opens with aromas of Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2017 Vial Pinot mild acidity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. yellow stone fruits, citrus and Alpine herbs. The 90 Bianco (Alto Adige). White orchard fruit abv: 13% Price: $NA focused, vibrant palate has an understated elegance and field flower aromas mingle with a whiff of bread and wonderful precision, offering grapefruit, mature dough. The medium-bodied palate offers ripe yellow Alois Lageder 2018 Pinot Bianco (Alto apricot and savory mineral alongside crisp acidity. apple, hazelnut and a hint of honeyed mineral, while 88 Adige). Aromas of spring flowers, apple Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. fresh acidity carries over to a bitter almond finish. and a whiff of Alpine herbs come together on this. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. On the tangy palate, fresh acidity accompanies ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $28 pear, citrus and a hint of thyme. Dalla Terra Winery St. Pauls 2018 Riesling (Alto Adige). Aro- Direct. —K.O. 90 mas of yellow stone fruit and citrus mingle Markus Prackwieser 2017 Mediavum Pinot abv: 12% Price: $15 with a whiff of fragrant white flowers. On the racy, 90 Bianco (Alto Adige). Ripe orchard fruit, linear palate, bright acidity accompanies white bread dough and dried Alpine herbs aromas slowly Erste Neue 2017 Puntay Pinot Bianco (Alto grapefruit, Meyer lemon and apricot before a flinty appear in the glass. Round and refined, the medium- 88 Adige). This has a shy nose that eventually close. Ethica Wines. —K.O. bodied palate shows ripe yellow pear, golden apple reveals subdued aromas of mature orchard fruit. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 and a hint of hazelnut alongside fresh acidity. Sum- The palate is also rather subdued but polished, mit Selections. —K.O. offering ripe apple and creamy pear alongside a hint abv: 13.5% Price: $19 of hazelnut. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. SAUVIGNON abv: 14% Price: $30 Markus Prackwieser 2017 Praesulis Pinot Kornell 2017 Oberberg Sauvignon (Alto 90 Bianco (Alto Adige). Subtle aromas of 92 Adige). Aromas of exotic fruit, citrus and mature white stone fruits, grilled herbs and a whiff KERNER crushed tomato vine take center stage. It’s crisp and of bread crust shape the nose. Tangy and round, the savory, offering grapefruit, green melon, dried herbs polished palate delivers creamy yellow pear, apple Cantina Valle Isarco 2017 Aristos Kerner (Alto and a savory saline note before a dry finish. Crisp and a hint of almond alongside a note suggesting 92 Adige). Enticing aromas of smoky flint, acidity keeps it balanced. Maritime Wine Trading flinty minerals. Summit Selections. —K.O. mature yellow stone fruits and fragrant wildflow- Collective. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 ers lead the nose on this fragrant white. Elegant and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 structured, the full-bodied, precise palate reflects St. Pauls 2016 Passion Riserva Pinot Bianco the nose, delivering ripe apricot, pink grapefruit Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2017 Kofl Sau- 90 (Alto Adige). Fermented and aged in casks, and graphite set against a backbone of crisp acidity. 91 vignon (Alto Adige). Intriguing aromas of this has subtle aromas of white stone fruit and Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. grapefruit, graphite and botanical herbs follow over hazelnut. On the polished palate, fresh acidity lifts —K.O. to the savory, vibrant palate along with apricot, yellow apple, white peach, oak-driven spice touched abv: 14% Price: $26 tropical fruit and a hint of lemon drop. Bright acid- by bitter almond. A hint of citrus drop signals the ity follows through to the dry, tangy finish. North close. Ethica Wines. —K.O. Castelfeder 2017 Lahn Kerner (Vigneti delle Berkeley Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 88 Dolomiti). Aromas of saline, citrus zest abv: 13.5% Price: $29 and grilled herbs lead the nose along with a whiff Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2017 Hofstatt of hazelnut. The linear, light-bodied palate offers Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2018 89 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Fermented in grapefruit, dried apricot and a hint of fennel along- 91 Lahn Sauvignon (Alto Adige). This needs a steel tanks and aged in large oak casks, this has few swirls of the glass before releasing aromas of soothing aromas of ripe orchard fruit and just- white spring blossom and citrus. The linear, focused

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 palate shows grapefruit, peach and crushed tomato Erste Neue 2018 Sauvignon (Alto Adige). elegance and focus, delivering ripe apricot, creamy vine framed in crisp acidity. Winebow. Editors’ 88 This opens with unusual aromas of brim- yellow apple and juicy grapefruit alongside crushed Choice. —K.O. stone, crushed stone and a whiff of bread dough that herbs and graphite. North Berkeley Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA burn off to reveal white stone fruit and citrus. On abv: 14% Price: $37 the crisp, linear palate, racy acidity frames grape- Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2017 fruit and kiwi before a tangy saline close. T. Edward Markus Prackwieser 2017 Gump Hof Praelu- 91 Sanct Valentin Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Aro- Wines Ltd. —K.O. 89 sis (Alto Adige). Delicate aromas evoking mas of pressed spring flower and exotic fruit are abv: 13.5% Price: $21 hay, apricot, tomato vine and citrus float above the front and center. On the full-bodied palate, you’ll glass. On the linear palate, tangy acidity lifts green find grapefruit, dried pineapple, mature green J. Hofstatter 2017 Oberkerschbaum Sauvi- melon, citrus and a hint of white almond. Summit melon and graphite alongside a hint of fennel and 88 gnon (Alto Adige). Aromas of celery, dried Selections. —K.O. the warmth of evident alcohol. Winebow. —K.O. apricot and a whiff of tomato leaf lead the way. The abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA aromas carry over to the lean palate along with grapefruit, graphite and a hint of grilled sage. Fred- Castelfeder 2016 Burgum Novum Riserva Sau- erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. SPARKLING WINE 91 vignon (Alto Adige). Crushed tomato vine, abv: 12.5% Price: $42 tropical fruit and toasted nut aromas lead the nose. Buglioni 2017 Moli Metodo Ancestrale The linear palate is a bit more subdued, offering Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2017 Stern Sauvi- 89 Rosato (Trevenezie). Wild rose, citrus and mature grapefruit, dried apricot, grilled herbs and 88 gnon (Alto Adige). This has a subdued nose red berry aromas mingle with a yeasty whiff of bread tangy minerality before a hazelnut finish. Bacchanal that eventually reveals whiffs of exotic fruit and dough. It’s linear and somewhat lean but still rather Wine Imports. —K.O. dried aromatic herbs along with a hint of elderberry. savory, offering sour cherry, orange zest and sage. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Grapefruit and mature apple lead the rounded pal- Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. ate, while a hint of fennel provides backup. Omni- abv: 12% Price: $NA St. Pauls 2018 Gfill Sauvignon (Alto Adige). wines Distribution. —K.O. 91 Spring flower, yellow stone fruit and a whiff abv: 14% Price: $28 of crushed Alpine herbs shape the delicate nose. CENTRAL ITALY Racy and linear, the vibrant palate delivers grape- Kornell 2018 Cosmas Sauvignon (Alto fruit, apricot and thyme, while crisp acidity keeps 88 Adige). This has aromas of grapefruit and WHITE WINES it balanced. Ethica Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. a whiff of tomato leaf. On the racy, somewhat lean abv: 13% Price: $23 palate, crisp acidity accompanies pineapple and a FRASCATI SUPERIORE hint of green melon. Maritime Wine Trading Col- Cantina Valle Isarco 2017 Aristos Sauvignon lective. —K.O. Casata Mergè 2017 1960 (Frascati Supe- 90 (Alto Adige). Dried botanical herb, citrus, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 riore). Aromas of lemon, tropical fruit and tomato vine and dried spring flower aromas form acacia flower emerge from the glass. The bright pal- the nose on this alluring white. Savory and elegant, Cantina Valle Isarco 2018 Sauvignon (Alto ate offers Bartlett pear, ginger and citrus alongside the linear palate delivers grapefruit, ripe honey- 87 Adige). Aromas of citrus, crushed tomato fresh acidity. Superior Wines. —K.O. dew, creamy white peach and a hint of graphite and leaf and a whiff of wet stone lift out of the glass abv: 13% Price: $40 oyster shell before a tangy finish. Monsieur Touton along with a white spring flower note. Racy and Selection Ltd. —K.O. light on its feet, the palate offers grapefruit and Casata Mergè 2017 Sesto 21 Riserva (Fra- abv: 13.5% Price: $26 green melon along with the merest hint of saline. 88 scati Superiore). This opens with aromas of Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. acacia flower, tropical fruit and lemon. The lively, Kössler 2018 Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Ele- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 linear palate offers white peach, pineapple and a 90 gant and balanced, this lovely white opens touch of ginger alongside fresh acidity. Superior with aromas of gooseberry, elderflower, citrus and a Cembra 2018 Sauvignon (Trentino). Aro- Wines. —K.O. whiff of crushed tomato leaf. On the savory palate, 87 mas of grapefruit and pineapple follow over abv: 13.5% Price: $45 crisp acidity supports juicy white grapefruit, green to the tangy, light-bodied palate along with a hint melon and creamy white peach before a tangy close. of green melon. It’s crisp, with racy acidity. Ethica Fontana Candida 2017 Luna Mater Riserva Wine Emporium. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. 88 (Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia, abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Greco and Bombino, this opens with aromas of citrus, acacia flower and tropical fruit. The rather Tiefenbrunner 2017 Turmhoff Sauvignon Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2017 Quintes- straightforward palate offers juicy pineapple and 90 (Alto Adige). Alluring aromas of grilled 87 senz Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Exotic fruit, Golden Delicious apple alongside fresh acidity. Banfi herbs, dried pineapple slices, tomato leaves and crushed tomato vine and grapefruit aromas leap Vintners. —K.O. graphite form the nose. On the linear, savory palate, out of the glass. The mature, full-bodied palate isn’t abv: 14.5% Price: $22 tangy acidity balances grapefruit, green melon and very expressive, offering dried yellow apple slice dried apricot before a saline finish. LLS–Winebow. and fennel notes. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. Principe Pallavicini 2017 Poggio Verde —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $46 88 (Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia abv: 13.5% Price: $34 Puntinata, Greco and Bombino, this offers aromas of white spring flower, lemon zest and tropical fruit. Cantina Produttori Bolzano 2017 Mock Sau- WHITE BLENDS The lively palate offers Granny Smith apple, grape- 88 vignon (Alto Adige). Fruity aromas of white fruit and yellow peach alongside bright acidity. Vias spring flower, citrus and white stone fruit shape the Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2016 Amos (Alto Imports. —K.O. nose. On the linear palate, crisp acidity accompa- 91 Adige). Made from a blend of Pinot Bianco, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 nies grapefruit, green melon and pineapple along Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Kerner, Sauvignon and with a hint of dried Alpine herbs. Matchvino. —K.O. Müller Thurgau, this rounded, structured white abv: 14% Price: $25 offers aromas of white and yellow stone fruit, citrus and crushed stone. The full-bodied palate shows

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BUYINGGUIDE

Casata Mergè 2017 Conte Jacopo Chardon- Pievalta 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi FRASCATI 87 nay (Lazio). Made with Chardonnay, this 91 Classico Superiore. Made with grapes grown has subdued aromas evoking ripe yellow peach and according to the principles of biodynamic farming, Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2018 Saula Carta white flower. The forward, rounded palate offers this fragrant white opens with heady scents of yel- 88 Nera (Frascati). This blend of Malvasia and ripe Bartlett pear and a hint of pineapple. Superior low flower, tropical fruit and a whiff of acacia honey. Bombino opens with aromas of white spring flower, Wines. —K.O. Round and savory, the polished, delicious palate citrus and tropical fruit. The bright palate offers abv: 13% Price: $40 delivers ripe yellow peach, citrus, almond and white pear, juicy pineapple and white peach alongside almond. LLS–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. fresh acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. Corte dei Papi 2017 Passerina del Frusinate abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 87 Passerina (Lazio). This fresh white opens with aromas of white spring flower and pear. The Umani Ronchi 2018 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2018 Saula Carta straightforward palate offers green apple and pine- 91 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Made 87 Bianca (Frascati). Aromas of white spring apple alongside tangy acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. with organically farmed grapes, this boasts intense flower and tropical fruit lead the nose. The straight- abv: 13% Price: $NA aromas of jasmine, Rennet apple and white peach. forward palate offers notes of lemon zest and green The juicy, concentrated palate delivers grapefruit, pear together with fresh acidity. Saranty Imports. Casata Mergè 2017 Venere (Lazio). This Concorde pear, ginger and a hint of sage alongside —K.O. 86 blend of Malvasia Puntinata and fresh acidity. Enjoy through 2025. Vineyard Brands. abv: 13% Price: $15 has subdued aromas suggesting white flower and —K.O. tropical fruit. On the simple, lean palate, you’ll find abv: 13% Price: $19 Principe Pallavicini 2018 Secco (Frascati). yellow peach and pineapple. Superior Wines. —K.O. 86 This has a shy nose that eventually reveals abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Garofoli 2017 Macrina (Verdicchio dei Cas- citrus and saline. The aromas carry over to the sim- 90 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Aromas ple palate along with a hint of bitter almond and a evoking beeswax, white spring flower, citrus and whisper of raw apricot. Vias Imports. —K.O. UMBRIA orchard fruit shape the nose. Smooth and savory, abv: 13% Price: $13 the bright palate doles out yellow Bartlett pear, Falesco 2018 Tellus Chardonnay (Umbria). nectarine and juicy tangerine before a bitter almond Bellini 2018 White Blend (Frascati). This 88 Aromas of citrus blossom, orchard fruit and finish. Tangy acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dalla 84 opens with subdued aromas evoking spring a whiff of cedar shape the nose on this Chardon- Terra Winery Direct. Best Buy. —K.O. flower and citrus. The extremely simple, lean palate nay. The juicy, tangy palate offers tangerine zest abv: 13% Price: $14 offers Bartlett pear and a hint of lemon zest along- and Golden Delicious apple alongside bright acidity. side brisk acidity. Saranty Imports. —K.O. LLS–Winebow. Best Buy. —K.O. Stefano Antonucci 2016 Verdicchio dei Cas- abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 87 telli di Jesi Classico Superiore. This opens with toasted oak and sage aromas. The medium- VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI bodied, subdued palate offers cedar, almond and LAZIO a hint of apple. Drink soon to catch the remaining JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE fruit and freshness. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. Casata Mergè 2017 Parsifal Pecorino (Lazio). abv: 13.5% Price: $27 88 Aromas of jasmine and ripe orchard fruit Umani Ronchi 2016 Vecchie Vigne (Verdic- waft out of the glass. Made with Pecorino, the bright 93 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI palate offers Bartlett pear, lemon zest and a hint of Made from old, organically farmed vines, this dried Mediterranean herbs alongside fresh acidity. elegantly structured Verdicchio boasts aromas DI JESI CLASSICO Superior Wines. —K.O. of white flower, citrus and beeswax. The elegant, abv: 13% Price: $40 enticing palate doles out Golden Delicious apple, Bucci 2016 Villa Bucci Riserva (Verdicchio dei white peach, acacia honey and touch of raw almond 95 Castelli di Jesi Classico). For full review see Paolo e Noemia D’Amico 2017 Falesia Char- alongside fresh acidity. Hold for more complexity. page 4. Cellar Selection. 88 donnay (Lazio). Made with Chardonnay, Enjoy through 2030. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 this has aromas of mature yellow apple, cedar and tion. —K.O. acacia honey. The savory palate delivers grapefruit, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Bucci 2004 Villa Bucci Vintage Collection white peach and vanilla alongside bright acidity. TD 95 Riserva (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Clas- Selections. —K.O. Garofoli 2016 Podium (Verdicchio dei Castelli sico). Aromas of dried botanical herbs, hay, mature abv: 14% Price: $33 92 di Jesi Classico Superiore). Heady scents of stone fruit, acacia honey and candied citrus slice white spring flower, yellow stone fruit and whiffs slowly take shape on this spry 15-year-old. Mir- Principe Pallavicini 2017 Malvasia del Lazio of honey shape the nose. Reflecting the aromas, roring the nose, the enveloping, savory palate doles 88 (Lazio). Made with 100% local grape Mal- the elegant, full-bodied palate offers juicy Bartlett out tangerine zest, dried apricot, marzipan and bit- vasia Puntinata, this offers aromas of acacia flower pear, yellow apple, acacia honey and a hint of white ter almond alongside still tangy acidity. A honeyed and white stone fruit. The juicy palate offers white almond. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dalla mineral note lingers on the close. Drink through peach, pear and a hint of thyme alongside tangy Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. 2024. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Bucci 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Clas- Bucci 2005 Villa Bucci Vintage Collection Cantina Gaffino 2017 Foietta Viognier (Lazio). 91 sico Superiore. Aromas suggesting tropical 94 Riserva (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Clas- 87 Made with Viognier, this has a shy nose that fruit, apricot and spring flower lead the nose along sico). This golden-colored 14-year-old opens with eventually reveals white flower and fennel aromas. with a whiff of aromatic herbs. The aromas carry on subtle but heady scents of beeswax, yellow wild- The straightforward palate offers apricot and grape- to the juicy, polished palate along with yellow peach flower, dried apricot and a whiff of petrol. The fruit. Enjoy soon. More Than Grapes. —K.O. and white almond. A mineral vein lifts the finish. aromas follow over to the linear palate along with abv: 13% Price: $16 Empson USA Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. mature yellow peach, citrus zest, crushed herbs, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 coffee and a dollop of vanilla. An almond note caps

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 the finish. It boasts a great depth of flavors while aromas carry over to the simple, light-bodied pal- ate, zesty acidity accompanies white grapefruit. surprisingly fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink ate along with hints of dried apricot and bitter nut. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. through 2023. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Golden Ram Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $14

Fattoria La Vialla 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli Colonnara 2016 Curprese (Verdicchio dei Cas- CENTRAL ITALY 93 di Jesi Classico. White stone fruit, spring 85 telli di Jesi Classico). Aromas of honey, bees- flower and citrus aromas delicately waft out of the wax, medicinal herbs and nut follow over to the bit- RED WINES glass. Grown with organically farmed grapes, it’s ter palate along with a hint of mature orange peel. smooth, delicious and juicy, doling out honeydew, Golden Ram Imports. —K.O. LAZIO Bartlett pear, white peach and lemon zest alongside abv: 13% Price: $16 fresh acidity. Haw River Wine Man. —K.O. Cotarella 2016 Montiano Merlot (Lazio). abv: 13% Price: $18 Colonnara 2015 Tufico Riserva (Verdicchio 92 This savory Merlot opens with aromas of 85 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Beeswax and mature black-skinned fruit, nutmeg and a whiff of Pievalta 2016 San Paolo Riserva (Verdic- medicinal herb aromas form the subtle nose along green peppercorn. The concentrated, full-bodied 90 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Aromas of with a whiff of citrus. The evolved palate is rather palate delivers blackberry jam, mocha and tobacco chamomile, ripe orchard fruit, chestnut honey and muddled, evoking dried pineapple slice, bitter alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink after 2020. hazelnut shape the nose. The aromas carry over to almond and a candied note. Golden Ram Imports. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. the medium-bodied palate along with mature yel- —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 low apple, marzipan and citrus. It closes on a min- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 eral note. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. Alessandrojacopo Boncompagni Ludo- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA VERDICCHIO DEI 90 visi 2016 Fioranello Cabernet Sauvignon (Lazio). This Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas of Umani Ronchi 2016 Plenio Riserva (Verdic- CASTELLI DI JESI bell pepper, underbrush and dark-skinned berry. 89 chio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Subtle aro- The savory palate evokes black currant, star anise mas of yellow field flower, ripe orchard fruit and Montecappone 2015 Utopia Riserva (Verdic- and vanilla alongside velvety tannins. T. Edward toasted nut form the delicate nose. On the linear, 88 chio dei Castelli di Jesi). Subtle aromas of Wines Ltd. —K.O. graceful palate, bright acidity lifts ripe yellow pear, yellow stone fruit, chamomile, oak and toasted nut abv: 14% Price: $35 Meyer lemon and bitter almond. Vineyard Brands. form the nose. The plump palate offers mature yel- —K.O. low apple, candied lemon drop and bitter almond Cantinamena 2017 Arcana Cesanese (Lazio). abv: 13.5% Price: $40 alongside the warmth of evident alcohol that throws 89 Made with organically farmed Cesanese, it somewhat off balance. Banville Wine Merchants. this has aromas of red berry, Mediterranean scrub Montecappone 2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli —K.O. and a whiff of ginger. The bright palate offers clove, 88 di Jesi Classico. This opens with aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $38 raspberry and star anise alongside pliant tannins of white spring flower, honeydew and white stone and fresh acidity. Enjoy soon. Noble Harvest, LLC. fruit. The tangy, light-bodied palate offers pink Stefano Antonucci 2017 Back to Basics (Ver- —K.O. grapefruit and white peach alongside fresh acidity. 88 dicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Deeply golden abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. colored, this opens with subtle aromas evoking abv: 12.5% Price: $15 mature yellow stone fruit, cedar and a whiff of Casata Mergè 2017 Cupido Red (Lazio). This chestnut honey. The aromas carry over to the for- 89 blend of Cesanese and Nero Buono opens Stefano Antonucci 2016 Tardivo Ma Non ward, full-bodied palate along with lemon drop and with aromas of dark-skinned berry, graphite and 88 Tardo (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Clas- bitter almond. Drink soon to capture the remaining baking spice. The savory palate offers blackberry, sico). This has subtle aromas of toasted nut, citrus freshness. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. licorice and black pepper alongside firm tannins. peel and a whiff of hay. The palate is full-bodied but abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Superior Wines. —K.O. lacks fruit richness, offering bitter almond, a hint of abv: 12.5% Price: $35 grapefruit and a note of powdered sage. Omniwines Garofoli 2011 Metodo Classico Brut Riserva Distribution. —K.O. 87 (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi). Orchard fruit Principe Pallavicini 2018 Rubillo Cesanese abv: 14% Price: $42 and bread crust aromas lead the nose while the vig- 89 (Lazio). Aromas of red berry, juniper and orous palate offers candied citrus, vanilla and ripe underbrush lead the nose. Made with 100% Cesa- Stefano Antonucci 2017 Le Vaglie (Verdicchio pear. Steely, assertive bubbles provide the firm, nese, the wine has a juicy palate that offers red cur- 87 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Yellow wild- lively framework. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. rant, clove and white pepper alongside smooth tan- flower, mature orchard fruit and hazelnut aromas abv: 12% Price: $NA nins and bright acidity. Drink soon to enjoy the fruit lead the way. On the bright palate, fresh acidity lifts richness and freshness. Vias Imports. —K.O. mature Rennet apple, saline and a white almond Stefano Antonucci 2017 Pignocco (Verdicchio abv: 13% Price: $15 note. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. 86 dei Castelli di Jesi). Subtle aromas evoking abv: 13% Price: $21 medicinal herbs, beeswax and yellow spring flowers Casata Mergè 2017 1960 Cesanese (Lazio). lift out of the glass. The lean, light-bodied palate is 88 Made with 100% native grape Cesanese, Umani Ronchi 2018 Villa Bianchi (Verdicchio subdued, showing mere suggestions of mature yel- this has subdued aromas of scorched earth, graphite 87 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Aromas of ripe low apple, honeydew and lemon zest before a bitter and dark-skinned fruit. The solid palate offers black apple and bitter almond follow over to the palate finish. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. currant, clove and raw hazelnut alongside assertive along with pear and citrus. Tangy acidity gives it a abv: 12.5% Price: $16 tannins. Superior Wines. —K.O. bright finish. Vineyard Brands.Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40 abv: 12% Price: $12 Stefano Antonucci 2017 Verdicchio dei Cas- 85 telli di Jesi. This opens with aromas of white Casata Mergè 2016 Panta Rei Red (Lazio). Colonnara 2017 Lyricus (Verdicchio dei Cas- spring flower and citrus. On the simple, lively pal- 88 Made with Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- 86 telli di Jesi Classico). This has subdued aro- lot, this offers subtle aromas of cassis and cook- mas of beeswax and a whiff of acacia honey. The ing spice. The firm palate shows ripe black plum,

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BUYINGGUIDE tobacco and mocha alongside dusty tannins. Supe- pepper alongside pliant tannins and fresh acidity. rior Wines. —K.O. UMBRIA Enjoy soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Falesco 2015 Tellus Merlot (Umbria). Made Casata Mergè 2016 Sesto 21 Syrah (Lazio). 88 entirely with Merlot, this has aromas of Cantina Gaffino 2016 Red (Roma). This 88 This Syrah opens with subtle aromas of dark-skinned fruit, toasted oak and vanilla. The 87 blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and dark-skinned fruit and baking spice. The straight- round, ripe palate offers ripe black plum, mocha Petit Verdot has subdued aromas of dark fruit, sun- forward, medium-bodied palate offers black plum, and star anise alongside smooth tannins. LLS– baked earth and clove. The straightforward palate star anise and a note of white pepper alongside Winebow. Best Buy. —K.O. offers dried black cherry, ground pepper and vanilla rounded tannins. Superior Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 alongside close-grained tannins. Drink soon. More abv: 14% Price: $45 Than Grapes. —K.O. Paolo e Noemia D’Amico 2014 Atlante Cab- abv: 14% Price: $25 Corte dei Papi 2016 San Magno Cesanese 88 ernet Franc (Umbria). This Cabernet Franc 88 (Lazio). This Cesanese offers aromas of opens with aromas of bell pepper, roasted coffee dark-skinned berry, cedar and cooking spice. The bean and dark-skinned fruit. It’s medium-bodied, AUSTRIA firm palate shows black currant, clove and a touch offering black currant jam, espresso and sage along- of hazelnut alongside taut tannins. Vias Imports. side close-grained tannins. TD Selections. —K.O. GRÜNER VELTLINER —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $60 FEDERSPIEL abv: 14% Price: $NA Falesco 2015 Tellus Cabernet Sauvignon Högl 2017 Ried Schön Grüner Veltliner Feder- Cotarella 2016 Sodale Merlot (Lazio). Aro- 87 (Umbria). Aromas of cassis, baking spice and 92 spiel (Wachau). A rather shy nose leads onto 88 mas of cedar, vanilla and black-skinned star anise lead the nose on this light-hearted Cab- a rounded, concentrated palate where a pleasantly fruit come together on this 100% Merlot. The for- ernet Sauvignon. The easygoing palate offers black bitter edge of pith frames full flavor. There is white ward palate offers blackberry jam, mocha and clove currant, vanilla and white pepper alongside round pepper and salty yeast and that phenolic quality of alongside pliant tannins. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. tannins. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. Grüner that gives so much structure. This is dry but abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $13 best with food. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Paolo e Noemia D’Amico 2014 Villa Terrena 88 Red (Lazio). Made with Merlot and Syrah, ROSSO PICENO Domäne Wachau 2018 Ried Kreuzberg Grüner this opens with aromas of cedar, dark berry and 91 Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). A touch of mocha. The medium-bodied palate shows dried Bucci 2015 Villa Bucci (Rosso Piceno). A green fern informs the notions of green pear on the blackberry, tobacco and espresso alongside asser- 92 blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% nose. The palate sweeps in with vivid, fresh juici- tive tannins. TD Selections. —K.O. Sangiovese, this offers aromas of wild berry, Medi- ness, lightness and ease. The dry finish tingles with abv: 13% Price: $27 terranean brush, star anise and new leather. The just a little white pepper. Gonzalez Byass USA. savory palate delivers juicy blackberry, black cherry —A.K. Principe Pallavicini 2016 Amarasco Cesa- and white pepper alongside fine-grained tannins abv: 12.5% Price: $25 88 nese (Lazio). Made entirely of native grape and fresh acidity. Drink 2020–2027. Empson USA Cesanese, this has subtle aromas of tilled soil, bak- Ltd. —K.O. Eder 2017 Süssenberg Grüner Veltliner Feder- ing spice and a whiff of dark-skinned fruit. The abv: 13.5% Price: $65 91 spiel (Wachau). Tender citrus pith and pear firm palate offers black currant, licorice and bitter peel on the nose already promise some texture on almond alongside assertive, rather raspy tannins. Bucci 2016 Pongelli (Rosso Piceno). Made the palate. It duly follows through on the wonder- Vias Imports. —K.O. 89 with equal parts of Montepulciano and fully light, bright and pristine palate. The finish is abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Sangiovese, this has earthy aromas of black-skinned dry and fresh. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. berry, scorched earth and cooking spice. The juicy abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Principe Pallavicini 2016 Syrah (Lazio). This palate offers black cherry, clove and tobacco along- 88 opens with dark-skinned fruit, tilled earth side smooth tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy soon. Högl 2017 J&G Grüner Veltliner Federspiel and mocha aromas. The medium-bodied palate Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. 91 (Wachau). Oak moss, citrus and salty yeast offers blackberry jam, black pepper and vanilla fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 on the nose lead onto a very spritzy palate of fine vors alongside dusty tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O. freshness. White pepper joins the yeasty, salty notes abv: 13.5% Price: $20 on the slender body that is nonetheless rounded OTHER RED WINES in its freshness. The dry finish has some lovely, Cantina Gaffino 2016 Il Buon Bastardo Red mouthwatering pith. Winemonger. —A.K. 87 (Lazio). A blend of 80% Cabernet Sau- Alessandrojacopo Boncompagni Ludovisi abv: 12.5% Price: $23 vignon and 20% Petit Verdot, this has subdued 93 2013 Fiorano (Vino Rosso d’Italia). Made aromas of dark fruit and underbrush. The straight- with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, Domäne Wachau 2018 Ried Liebenberg forward palate offers ripe black currant, clove and this boasts aromas of black currant, pipe tobacco 90 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Very vanilla alongside round tannins. More Than Grapes. and a whiff of bell pepper. The juicy, balanced palate open, friendly notes of ripe green pear stream from —K.O. delivers Marasca cherry, cassis, white pepper and the glass. The palate still has a creamy touch of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 licorice alongside fine-grained tannins and bright yeast but manages to be light, fresh, easy and very acidity. Drink through 2027. T. Edward Wines Ltd. juicy. A little spritz helps this along a little more on Cantina Gaffino 2016 Opimiam Syrah (Lazio). —K.O. the dry, tingling finish where some of Grüner’s pith- 87 This Syrah opens with delicate aromas of abv: 13% Price: $95 iness shines through. Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K. cooking spice, tilled soil and a whiff of black-skinned abv: 12.5% Price: $25 fruit. The no-frills palate offers black currant jam, Corte dei Papi 2017 Colle Ticchio (Cesanese white pepper and vanilla alongside smooth tannins. 89 del Piglio). Aromas of red berry, cooking Domäne Wachau 2018 Ried Pichlpoint Drink soon. More Than Grapes. —K.O. spice and underbrush emerge from the glass. The 90 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). The abv: 13% Price: $25 savory palate offers ripe raspberry, clove and white nose is shy but has a hint of wet pebble and rus-

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 set pear peel. The palate is concentrated with ripe KREMSTAL Winzer Krems 2018 Kellermeister Privat apple freshness, ripe lemon and a little brush of cit- 90 Ried Kremser Goldberg Grüner Veltliner rus pith. The finish is dry, fresh and textured. Gon- GRÜNER VELTLINER (Kremstal). Arugula, green pear, white pepper and zalez Byass USA. —A.K. fennel seed create a savory opening. That spiciness abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Geyerhof 2017 Ried Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner persists on the palate where mellow freshness is 93 (Kremstal). Buttery roundness on the nose supported by slight spritz. This is easy but peppery Fischer 2018 Ried Zanzl Grüner Veltliner is reminiscent of baked crumble, in this case of pear and very appetizing. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. 90 Federspiel (Wachau). Hints of pear drop and plum crumble. The palate is mellow with rich abv: 13% Price: $20 candy appear first on the fresh nose. The palate fruit and roundness, but a lovely, pithy edge keeps then comes in with an almost unexpected freshness the generosity in check. The finish is dry, satisfying Winzer Krems 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Krem- that presents green pear and ripe lemon with lovely and wonderfully long. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. 88 stal). Pear drop candy, green pear and some concentration. The finish is dry and vivid. Frederick abv: 13% Price: $45 zesty lime appear on the nose. The light and slen- Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. der palate boosts its mellow freshness with gentle abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Geyerhof 2017 Ried Steinleithn Grüner Velt- spritz, while the finish is dry and shows off more 93 liner (Kremstal). A buttery note of ripe pear. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Tegernseerhof 2018 Dürnstein T26 Grüner Mirabelle plum on the nose suggests richness. The abv: 13% Price: $14 90 Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). A touch of palate comes in with the suggested generosity of white pepper surrounds the green pear peel hints on yellow plum but is laced with wonderful, pithy and the nose. The palate comes in with balanced light- aromatic freshness. There is structure and depth KAMPTAL GRÜNER VELTLINER ness that is juicy and fresh, helped along by gentle and a wonderfully satisfying, dry freshness on the spritz. This is easy, juicy, balanced and dry. KWSe- long finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. Jurtschitsch 2017 Ried Loiserberg Grüner lection.com. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 94 Veltliner (Kamptal). Grilled cardoon and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 crushed thistle amid bright lemon zest on the nose Proidl 2018 Freiheit Grüner Veltliner (Krem- make for an interesting opening. The concentrated OTHER WACHAU 92 stal). A shy nose gives nothing away apart palate follows this with wonderfully salty, citrusy from hints of pepper and crushed sage savoriness. and mouthwatering pithiness. This is compact, GRÜNER VELTLINER The palate is fresh but rounded, and yeast, pepper, tingles with white pepper and is totally appetizing. crushed sage, salt and ripe pear come together cen- David Bowler Wine. —A.K. Eder 2017 Süssenberg Smaragd Grüner Velt- ter stage. This is lovely, animating, full-flavored and abv: 12.5% Price: $33 93 liner (Wachau). A hint of golden sultana still fresh. Soilair Selection. —A.K. plays alongside notes of dandelion blossom on the abv: 12% Price: $29 Weixelbaum 2017 Wahre Werte Gaisberg rich nose. That richness is bundled on the slender 93 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Crushed palate and gives a compact, creamy feel, helped Proidl 2018 Hausberg Grüner Veltliner yarrow and creamy, salty yeast on the nose lead to along by creamy roundness. But freshness and pith 92 (Kremstal). The nose is shy and just allows a concentrated palate of yeasty, textural intensity pervade and give structure. The dry finish is won- a glimpse of russet pear peel. The palate comes in that showcases salty richness and hints of peppery derfully pithy. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. with freshness and roundness in equal measure, herb. This is resonant, bundled and totally fresh abv: 14% Price: $34 parading peppery yeast alongside yellow pear ripe- with lingering echoes of spice on the dry, long fin- ness. There is a juicy core and a lovely citrusy fresh- ish. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. Tegernseerhof 2018 Ried Superin Grüner ness on the dry finish. Soilair Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 92 Veltliner (Wachau). A yeasty, earthy touch abv: 12.5% Price: $28 informs the ripe Mirabelle plum fruit on the nose. Eichinger 2018 Ried Wechselberg Grüner The juicy palate remains light and carries subtle Proidl 2018 Rameln Grüner Veltliner (Krem- 92 Veltliner (Kamptal). A rich tone of white, freshness, which is supported by gentle spritz. This 92 stal). A touch of yeast still swings on the juicy pear flesh on the nose turns into a juicy palate is easy, juicy and light and reveals subtle depth on nose alongside green pear fruit. The palate brims of ripe green pear, edged with yeasty richness. There the dry finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K. with pear and Mirabelle plum but is countered by is a lovely, almost zesty core and a salty savor that is abv: 12.5% Price: $24 a lovely phenolic pithiness to give structure and very animating. The finish tingles with ripe lemon drive. The finish is dry and savory with yeast. Soil- freshness. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. Pichler-Krutzler 2018 Ried Klostersatz Grüner air Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 91 Veltliner (Wachau). Yeasty freshness still sets abv: 13% Price: $30 the chief tone on the nose. The palate then shows Hiedler 2018 Ried Thal Grüner Veltliner a milky, creamy richness on a slender palate that Thiery-Weber 2018 Kaiserstiege Grüner Velt- 92 (Kamptal). A creamy aspect joins the yellow favors salty, pithy savoriness over fruit. This is mel- 92 liner (Kremstal). A hint of vanilla, white pear and ripe lemon notes on the nose. The palate low and rounded but finishes dry and fresh. Wey- pepper and the juicy flesh of ripe, yellow pear tingles with just a little spritz and has edges of that gandt-Metzler. —A.K. are evoked on the nose. The palate is a picture of yeasty, salty, herbal savoriness. There is lovely con- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 that juiciness but is pervaded by lovely flashes of centration. The dry finish is appetizing and peppery. white pepper spice. The finish is dry, balanced and Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Eder 2017 Raubern Grüner Veltliner refreshing. Singular Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $27 90 (Wachau). The earthy roundness of dande- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 lion flower and leaf plays on the nose. The palate Rabl 2018 Ried Panzaun Grüner Veltliner is light and fresh but wonderfully textured, with Aigner 2018 Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner 92 (Kamptal). Yeast and citrus pith on the pleasantly bitter hints of pith. The finish is dry and 90 (Kremstal). The nose is shy but streaks of nose promise concentration, and the palate delivers very appetizing. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. very ripe Mirabelle plum peek through. This fruiti- it. There is a juicy, still yeasty body, but there also is abv: 13.5% Price: $30 ness is expressed more fully on the spritzy palate, a bundled core of phenolics, white pepper spice and where it is met with a lovely, pithy texture and salty yeast. The finish is dry and balanced. Moran- friendly freshness. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. dell Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Rabl 2018 Spiegel Grüner Veltliner (Kamp- tle green pear freshness and supported by gentle Weixelbaum 2018 Stephanus Grüner Velt- 92 tal). Gentle notes of ripe, yellow pear on spritz. The flavors are ripe and reminiscent of green 88 liner (Kamptal). The nose is rather shy the nose have the slightest whiff of mango and salty pear peel and yellow pear flesh with a lovely, pithy and wants to give nothing away. The palate stays yeast. The palate is more juicy and brings ripe Mira- note of citrus on the dry finish. Morandell Imports. in almost neutral mode but reveals a slightly pithy belle plum to bear, again with that mango overtone. —A.K. texture with lovely balance and ripe freshness. This It is on the finish that the pithy phenolics kick in, abv: 13% Price: $NA is dry, mellow, creamy and easy. H. Mercer Wine & along with the peppery spice. Morandell Imports. Spirit Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. —A.K. Bründlmayer 2018 Ried Berg Vogelsang abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A whiff of green apple and white pepper on the nose sets the tone. Weszeli 2018 Steingarten Grüner Veltliner The palate is very light, easy, bright and wonder- WAGRAM GRÜNER VELTLINER 92 (Kamptal). A touch of smoky reduction fully fresh for the warm vintage. Green pear and blows off quickly to reveal ripe pear notes. These are apple juiciness last until the dry finish. Terry Theise Bernhard Ott 2018 Am Berg Grüner Veltliner joined on the fresh but ripe palate by tingling white Estate Selections. —A.K. 92 (Wagram). Lemon zest, white pepper and pepper notes and some enlivening spritz. The dry abv: 12.5% Price: $32 salty yeast on the nose promise complexity. The finish has an added note of zestiness. Savio Soares palate is juicy and imbues that salty, yeasty core Selections. —A.K. Eichinger 2018 Strass Grüner Veltliner with juicy pear and orange peel freshness. This is abv: 12.5% Price: $25 90 (Kamptal). On the nose there is a lovely rounded but fresh with a lovely, long salty finish. notion of freshly cut green pear peel. The palate is Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Hiedler 2018 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner light and shows a slightly pithy texture in which abv: 12% Price: $NA 91 (Kamptal). The nose has notions of dan- both yeast and white pepper shimmer. The finish is delion leaf and citrus pith with a subtle notion of dry and savory. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. Bernhard Ott 2018 Der Ott Feuersbrunn ripe yellow pear. The palate shows some concen- abv: 12% Price: $18 92 Grüner Veltliner (Wagram). Ripe notes of tration and a lovely pithy texture. Ripe, rounded yellow Mirabelle plum have a spicy edge of fennel lemon freshness makes for a really clean, dry finish. Josef Hirsch 2018 Kammern Grüner Veltliner seed. On the concentrated, juicy palate, that fruit Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 90 (Kamptal). Notes of freshly cut green pear is wrapped in a rich, yeasty, salty texture that tin- abv: 12.5% Price: $23 are open and appetizing on the nose. The palate is gles with intensity. This is juicy, fruity, savory and sunny, easy and friendly, with more pear, now laced totally appetizing. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Laurenz V. 2017 Charming Reserve Grüner Velt- with some ripe lemon freshness. Toward the dry fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 91 liner (Kamptal). A creamy aspect joins the ish there is a little pith for added structure. Skurnik pear drop candy notes on the fresh, fruity nose. The Wines, Inc. —A.K. Bernhard Ott 2018 Fass 4-30 Jahre Grüner palate is concentrated and shimmers with white abv: 12.5% Price: $25 92 Veltliner (Wagram). Subtle citrus pith mixes pepper between the flashes of ripe, juicy pear fruit. with salty yeast on the shy nose. The palate then A lovely texture recalls citrus pith and freshness. Schloss Gobelsburg 2018 Langenlois Grüner presents a mix of bright lemon peel and pith, salt, Folio Fine Wine Partners. —A.K. 90 Veltliner (Kamptal). Pear, sage, yeast and yeast and crushed arugula in a surprisingly slender abv: 13% Price: $27 pepper on the nose bode well for a most savory but concentrated package. The finish is savory and wine. The palate comes in with juicy, ripe freshness, dry. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Laurenz V. 2017 Friendly Grüner Veltliner while some spritz accentuates the savoriness. This abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 91 (Kamptal). Yeast, pear, saltiness and yarrow is easy but full-flavored with a dry finish. Skurnik on the nose signal savoriness. The palate delivers Wines, Inc. —A.K. Mehofer 2018 Klassik Grüner Veltliner this on a slender, concentrated body that is vivid abv: 13% Price: $20 90 (Wagram). Mossy, herbal freshness rises with citrus freshness and textured citrus pith. This from the glass. The palate adds vivid notes of ripe, is light, full-flavored, dry and rather moreish. Folio Weixelbaum 2018 Ried Wechselberg Grüner green pear and a lovely pithy edge. There is slight Fine Wine Partners. —A.K. 90 Veltliner (Kamptal). A distant hint of pear spritz on the light, easy and fresh body. The finish abv: 12.5% Price: $20 peel can be made out on the shy nose. The palate is dry and refreshing. The Artisan Collection. Best shows more verve and freshness with lovely hints of Buy. —A.K. Loimer 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Salt, citrus pith and some green pear juiciness. The finish abv: 12% Price: $15 91 yeast and fennel seed on the nose create a is dry, mouthwatering and clean. H. Mercer Wine & most savory, appetizing opening. The concentrated Spirit Imports. —A.K. Diwald 2018 vom Löss Grüner Veltliner palate revives these salty notions that make you abv: 13% Price: $21 89 (Wagram). Notes of fennel seed and green crave more. Juicy pear figures on the dry, peppery pear jump from the glass. On the palate some lovely finish. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. Weszeli 2018 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner spritz enhances the easy, rounded freshness of this abv: 12% Price: $NA 90 (Kamptal). The nose is a little shy, just light-bodied Grüner. The finish is dry and savory. hinting at pear and pepper, but the palate comes in Langdon Shiverick. —A.K. Nastl 2016 Gigant Reserve Grüner Veltliner with spritz that seems to spray white pepper and abv: 12% Price: $18 91 (Kamptal). Notes of very ripe russet pear pear notes everywhere. This is slender, dry, lively come across as rather earthy along with a kind of and refreshing. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Leth 2018 Ried Steinagrund Grüner Veltliner maple-roasted richness. The concentrated palate abv: 12% Price: $20 89 (Wagram). An unusual hint of passion fruit also shows rich notions of yeast and more of that hovers on the nose. The palate then comes in with caramelized, roasted richness, cut with lovely fresh- Hirsch 2018 Hischvergnügen Grüner Veltliner a slight but pithy texture that combines mellowness ness. This is unusual and rather bold, supported by 88 (Kamptal). A shy nose promises citrus and with ripe freshness. The finish is dry and clean. pithy texture. Solstars. —A.K. green pear. The palate is a joyous, pear-flavored and Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 juicy sweep of fruit and easy freshness. The finish is abv: 12.5% Price: $17 dry and fresh. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. Rabl 2018 Kittmansberg Grüner Veltliner abv: 12% Price: $20 91 (Kamptal). A rather closed nose leads onto a palate of juicy roundness, just edged with a lit-

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 WEINVIERTEL freshness and an easy, slightly pithy texture. The Winzer Krems 2018 von den Terrassen Grüner finish is dry and suave. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 89 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Aromatic green GRÜNER VELTLINER abv: 12% Price: $19 pear peel has edges of white pepper and arugula on the nose. The palate is mellow but also edged with Ingrid Groiss 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Wein- Kohl 2018 Ried Kittle Grüner Veltliner (Nie- pith, pepper and lovely pear. This is slender and dry 92 viertel). White pepper, crushed sage and 90 derösterreich). Notes of pear drop candy but flavorsome. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. a touch of citrus promise savoriness. The palate and yeast combine with lemon and green pear to abv: 12.5% Price: $15 delivers with full-on white pepper spiciness, slen- create a very friendly, fresh nose. The light palate der freshness and lovely, pithy, salty, yeasty texture. shows concentration and has lovely, yeasty depth Waldschütz 2018 Handwerk Grüner Veltliner This is a little pepper bomb full of life and verve. along with textured, yeasty pith. The finish is dry 88 (Niederösterreich). Green pear on the nose The finish is dry and appetizing. Circo Vino. —A.K. but very full-fruited. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. has a hint of zestiness. The palate is light but mel- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $25 low, features more of that fresh pear fruit and is dry and fresh. There is a juicy core and a clean finish. Zull 2016 Ried Äußere Bergen Reserve Grüner Türk 2018 Kremser Weinberge Grüner Velt- Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 92 Veltliner (Weinviertel). Mellow notes of 90 liner (Niederösterreich). A slight overtone abv: 12.5% Price: $13/1 L winter apple seem to have a hint of sage and pepper of ripe mango hovers on the russet pear notes of the on the nose. The palate is dry but equally mellow, nose. The palate comes in with spritz, which helps Winzer Krems 2018 Sandgrube 13 Grüner hinting at some developed notions with its mix of the gentle freshness along. The palate has a lovely 88 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Pear drop apple peel and crushed pepper and sage. A lovely, concentration where more pear peel, pith and some candy freshness on the nose suggests ease and light- mellow, dry and concentrated wine with a resonant lemon lead to a dry finish. Balanced Wine Selec- ness. The palate duly delivers with fine spritz and finish. Alexander Vineyards. —A.K. tions LLC. —A.K. a slender but fresh body, which has hints of green abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 pear and white pepper. Drink soon. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Weingut Frank 2017 Ried Hoher Weg Reserve Weingut Frank 2017 Ried Johannisbergen abv: 12.5% Price: $14 90 Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). A slight 90 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Lovely overtone of ripe mango hovers on the russet pear notes of ripe, yellow pear have a zesty aspect on the Waldschütz 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Nie- notes of the nose. The palate comes in with spritz, nose. The palate comes with spritz, which accentu- 87 derösterreich). Notes of iced green pear and which helps the gentle freshness along. The palate ates the easy, light body and the brightness of the lemon on the nose get a boost on the slender palate has a lovely concentration where more pear peel, pear notes. There is just a little of that phenolic through very fine spritz. The body is light and slight, pith and some lemon lead to a dry finish. August pithiness on the dry finish to give more structure. but also fresh, pear fruited, mellow and easy. Fred- Wine Group. —A.K. August Wine Group. —A.K. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $47 abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 12.5% Price: $10/1 L

Dürnberg 2018 Falkenstein Grüner Veltliner Laurenz V. 2018 Singing Grüner Veltliner BURGENLAND 89 (Weinviertel). Intense pear drop candy and 89 (Niederösterreich). A hint of Mandarin notes of fresh green pear on the nose carry seam- orange mixes in with the green pear notes on the GRÜNER VELTLINER lessly onto the palate where they are met with spritz nose. The juicy palate swishes with green pear and and rounded lemon freshness. This is easy drinking, ripe lemon to a fresh, moreish and refreshing finish. Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2017 Reserve light and bright with a dry, peppery finish. Multiple Folio Fine Wine Partners. —A.K. 92 Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). Mango and U.S. importers. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16 passion fruit overtones on the nose suggest bur- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 geoning fruit and juicy ripeness. The palate boasts Stift Klosterneuburg 2018 Grüner Veltliner these same notion but adds a good dollop of con- Kohl 2018 Ried Pottschalen Grüner Velt- 89 (Niederösterreich). Gentle green pear, moss centration, texture and surprising freshness. This is 89 liner (Weinviertel). Slight pear drop candy and fennel seed notes make for a savory, appetizing rounded, juicy, ripe and full of life. The finish is dry, swings with the lemon notes on the nose. The pal- nose. The palate is light, juicy with green pear, easy vivid and long. Unusual for a Grüner, but convinc- ate shows lovely pear peel texture and a pithy edge and dry, with that lovely peppery overtone that is ing. GP Imports. —A.K. of citrus. This is light, dry, vivid and very refreshing. the hallmark of Grüner. Boutique Wine Collection. abv: 13% Price: $20 Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Höpler 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). 88 Iced lemon and ripe Mirabelle plum on the Pratsch 2018 Ried Steinberg Grüner Veltliner The Dot 2018 Austrian Apple Grüner Veltliner nose promise freshness and fruit. The very light, 89 (Weinviertel). Green pear notes on the nose 89 (Niederösterreich). Pear drop candy, lush bright palate indeed boasts gentle lemon, which is have a salty hint of yeast. The palate is light and moss and green pear on the nose spell freshness and boosted by gentle spritz. The finish is dry and clean. understated with a lovely light, compact body, some fruit. The palate is juicy and rounded and enhances USA Wine Imports. —A.K. pithy texture and easy pear freshness. Winesellers, teh wine’s freshness with a little light spritz. The abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Ltd. —A.K. finish is very green-fruited, dry and vivid. Taub abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.K. Esterházy 2018 Grüner Veltliner (Burgen- abv: 12% Price: $13 87 land). The nose is closed, but the palate NIEDERÖSTERREICH comes in with a strong sense of yeast, herb and The Dot 2018 Austrian Pepper Grüner Velt- earth. There are notions of dandelion leaf and pithy, GRÜNER VELTLINER 89 liner (Niederösterreich). Pear drop candy slightly bitter citrus. The finish is dry and fresh. notes on the nose have an edge of passion fruit, Wein Bauer Inc. —A.K. Hiedler 2018 Löss Grüner Veltliner (Nie- quite appropriate for this warm vintage. The palate, abv: 11.5% Price: $22 90 derösterreich). Ripe notes of fresh green however, stays fresh and zippy with a little spritz, and yellow pear and melon make for a most friendly, while mellow, and gives a lovely dry and savory fin- appetizing nose. The light palate comes in with ish. Taub Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $13

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the body and the dry finish. KWSelection.com. Proidl 2018 Riesling (Kremstal). The lovely OTHER GRÜNER VELTLINER —A.K. 90 freshness of ripe lemon, tinged with citrus abv: 12.5% Price: $24 foliage, streams from the glass. The palate is juicy Wieninger 2018 Wiener Grüner Veltliner and surprisingly bright for the warm vintage, and 92 (Vienna). Pear peel, dried lime peel and wet it brims with vivid citrus notes of Mandarin orange pebble on the nose lead to a friendly, green pear- OTHER WACHAU RIESLING and ripe lemon. The finish is dry and juicy. Soilair fruited body of lovely lightness. This is slender but Selection. —A.K. compact, with a real dollop of ripe pear at its core, Eder 2017 Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). A abv: 12.5% Price: $26 framed by savory pith and lovely, ripe freshness. 93 hint of herb and honey colors the ripe apple, Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. tangerine and Mirabelle plum notes on the nose. The abv: 12.5% Price: $19 palate reprises that zesty spice and lets it stream KAMPTAL RIESLING across the fresh and well-defined yellow plum fruit. Markus Huber 2018 Obere Steigen Grüner Velt- This is taut, concentrated, fresh and bold. Lovely Jurtschitsch 2017 Ried Heiligenstein Riesling 91 liner (Traisental). Gentle, mossy freshness of now but will develop. Drink 2020–2030. Slocum & 95 (Kamptal). The nose takes some swirling green pear on the nose continues seamlessly on the Sons, Inc. —A.K. to wake up but then releases seductive glimpses of light, slightly spritzy palate. This is slender, gentle abv: 14.5% Price: $34 grapefruit and lime, followed split seconds later by and very light but also bright with freshness and riper tangerine. The palate plays the same, subtle rounded pear flavor. The finish is refreshing and has Pichler-Krutzler 2018 Ried Pfaffenberg Ries- but highly aromatic game and shines with purity a dash of white pepper. Broadbent Selections, Inc. 93 ling (Wachau). A little yeast on the nose and poise. The palate also has a creamy backdrop, —A.K. soon blows off to portray Mandarin orange flesh and which makes all the citrus appear even more vivid. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 peel. The slender, spritzy palate is vivid with zest Lovely. Drink 2020–2035. David Bowler Wine. and aroma and concentrated with fruity freshness. —A.K. A lovely, full-flavored, aromatic wine with a dry fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $37 RIESLING FEDERSPIEL ish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Hiedler 2018 Ried Langenloiser Steinhaus Eder 2017 Riesling Federspiel (Wachau). The 93 Riesling (Kamptal). Yeasty reduction on the 92 nose is shy and just gives a hint of stone Pichler-Krutzler 2018 Loiben Riesling nose leaves a very flinty impression. The palate is fruit, but the palate reveals all. There is ripe, juicy 90 (Wachau). A little yeasty reduction still concentrated and zesty with ripe tangerine peel. Mirabelle flecked with lovely lemon freshness, and appears on the nose but soon gives way to vivid, The body then adds more juicy Mandarin orange there is slenderness, but also zesty concentration. ripe apple notes. The palate is alive with just that and ripe citrus. This is precise, juicy and wonder- A lovely, slender wine that brightens, refreshes and tart and ripe fruitiness of a ripe Cox’s Orange Pip- fully fresh with a lasting, dry and full-flavored fin- brings joy. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. pin apple, which results in immense juiciness. The ish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 finish is dry and very refreshing. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 12.5% Price: $35 —A.K. Högl 2017 Ried Bruck Riesling Federspiel abv: 12% Price: $22 Eichinger 2018 Strass Riesling (Kamptal). 91 (Wachau). Hints of both Mirabelle plum 92 Vivid hints of Mandarin orange and tan- and ripe lemon appear tentatively on the nose. The gerine play on the fresh nose. The palate is bright, palate is very light and bright, diffusing that stone KREMSTAL RIESLING bursting with that ripe Mandarin orange freshness. fruit with wonderful zestiness in a very easygoing, The body is slender and has some lovely spritz that juicy, slender fashion. This is easy, breezy and dry. Geyerhof 2017 Ried Kirchensteig Riesling makes it seem all the more zesty. Ripe, fruity and Winemonger. —A.K. 94 (Kremstal). Notions of Mandarin orange dry all the way to the finish. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 and tangerine peel reach the nose with seductive —A.K. subtlety. The palate showcases these same, pris- abv: 12.5% Price: $21 Domäne Wachau 2018 Ried Bruck Riesling tine citrus notes with their ripe zestiness and juicy 90 Federspiel (Wachau). Gentle but bright and concentration and shines with a sunny, refreshing, Hiedler 2018 Langenlois Riesling (Kamptal). sunny notes of lemon on the nose find their echo on wonderful purity. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.K. 92 Flinty reduction and intense lemon vie for the lithe palate. Green apple and zesty lemon play abv: 13% Price: $48 domination on the nose. The palate gives favor to against a backdrop of fresh, creamy yeast on a very the juicy, bright lemon and helps it along with a lit- slender, fresh body with a dry and really zesty fin- Geyerhof 2017 Ried Goldberg Riesling (Krem- tle lively spritz. There is mouthwatering, ripe fresh- ish. Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K. 93 stal). Intense juiciness of ripe yellow pear ness that strikes a lovely balance. The finish is dry abv: 12.5% Price: $25 on the nose is pervaded by ripe lemon freshness. and juicy. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. The palate has just the same juicy appeal, convinc- abv: 12.5% Price: $26 Fischer 2018 Ried Kirnberg Riesling Fed- ing with wave after wave of ripe, pure, aromatic 90 erspiel (Wachau). Green apple and pear fruit. The body is slender but very expressive. The Nastl 2017 Langenlois Riesling (Kamptal). appear tenderly on the fresh nose. The palate is finish is very moreish with its zesty finish. Blue 92 A tropical whiff of mango plays about the slender and fresh, but also has a note of riper, mel- Danube Wine Co. —A.K. smoky reduction on the nose. The palate carries on low apple flesh. The finish is dry, fresh and mouth- abv: 13% Price: $60 in fruity abundance with that same mango and pas- watering. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. sion fruit combo and a bright note of lemony ripe- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Aigner 2018 Ried Weinzerlberg Riesling ness. The body is concentrated and zesty, and the 90 (Kremstal). Overtones of mango and pas- finish is mouthwatering, dry and still wholly tropi- Tegernseerhof 2018 Dürnstein Riesling Fed- sion fruit reach the nose first before riper citrus cal. Solstars. —A.K. 89 erspiel (Wachau). A rather shy nose does notions kick in. The palate is full-fruited in a very abv: 13% Price: $22 not give much away. The palate is slender and fresh slender, refreshing way. Its freshness is presented but seems to lack a little focus. This, however, is in Mandarin orange, red apple and ripe lemon. This Schloss Gobelsburg 2018 Zöbing Riesling made up for by the ripe apple notes that dominate is bright, easy and wonderfully fresh. Weygandt- 92 (Kamptal). Pristine notions of tangerine Metzler. —A.K. hover gently above the glass. The palate is bright abv: 13% Price: $NA with that ripe citrus notion, amplified by gentle

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 spritz on a slender, juicy, concentrated palate. A a little spritz to make the citrus notions more lovely dry Riesling with rounded, deeply aromatic bouncy, but that wonderfully ripe stone fruit lends SAUVIGNON BLANC freshness. Lovely. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. rounded, juicy suppleness. The finish is dry, fresh abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and intensely fruity. Alexander Vineyards. —A.K. Wohlmuth 2017 Ried Edelschuh Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $35 95 Blanc (Südsteiermark). Subtle aromat- Weszeli 2017 Ried Loiserberg Riesling (Kamp- ics evoke stone and lime at first but then fill with 92 tal). A little, subtle cloud of earthy citrus Kohl 2018 Ried Pennäcker Riesling (Niederös- more tropical notions of ripe passion fruit. The pal- bursts on the nose. The palate then comes in with 91 terreich). A touch of ripe, juicy apricot min- ate beds this aromatic passion fruit on cushions of slenderness and resumes that earth-citrus game, gles with the lemon scents on the nose. The palate soft, yeasty, creamy texture that is spiked with lime which pitches russet pear peel against bright lemon. has lovely concentration and a sense not only of freshness. An exciting prospect. The finish is dry, This is lovely, bright, concentrated and animating citrus zest but also pith, which gives a lovely tex- long, textured and totally aromatic. Drink 2020– with a beautifully tangy, textured, dry finish of ripe ture. The finish is dry, zesty and very appetizing. 2030. VOS Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. lemon. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $56 abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $20 Wohlmuth 2017 Ried Hochsteinriegl Sau- Josef Hirsch 2018 Zöbing Riesling (Kamp- Jordan 2018 Hiller-Ried Wehrleiten Riesling 95 vignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Subtle 90 tal). A hint of crushed citrus leaf on the 90 (Niederösterreich). There is something elderflower, fern and grass on the nose attain an nose spells breezy freshness, and the very light, very breezy, lemony, almost lifted on the nose that incredibly rounded richness on the palate. The easy palate is equally citrus-scented and pervaded is reminiscent of crushed citrus foliage. The palate green tartness is plumped out with Mirabelle plum by ripe freshness. A friendly, citrus-led, slender is light, bright and dry, and has a slight spritz that ripeness and buffered with a rich, creamy texture summer wine. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. helps with those zesty lemon notes. The finish is while a sparky streak of lemon zest keeps every- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 dry and very aromatic. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine thing focused. Texture, fruit and freshness combine Merchants. —A.K. in a most winning fashion. Drink 2020–2030. VOS Rabl 2018 Steinberg Riesling (Kamptal). abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.K. 90 Subtle notes of lemon rise to the nose. The abv: 13.5% Price: $45 palate adds the slightest but very attractive bitter- Weszeli 2017 Belle Fleur Riesling (Niederös- ness to them, like a note of juicy pith. This is slen- 90 terreich). Mirabelle plum, yellow pear and Sattlerhof 2016 Kranachberg Sauvignon der, citrus-driven, dry and wonderfully aromatic. ripe apple combine into ripe fruitiness on the nose. 94 Blanc (Südsteiermark). Flinty reduction Morandell Imports. —A.K. A medium-sweet palate then puts all its cards on on the nose suffuses grassy freshness with pas- abv: 13% Price: $NA ripe, vivid apple flavors that are both rounded and sion fruit’s tart ripeness. The palate majors on that fresh. The gentle sweetness is met with freshness passion fruit on the still smoky but light, slender, and presents a slender, entirely apple- and citrus- expressive palate. The mix of grass, fruit, smoke, WAGRAM RIESLING scented wine that is not quite sweet enough for des- stone and zest is wonderfully moreish. Lovely now sert. Cheese or chili-spiced dishes might be a better but will evolve. Drink 2020–2030. Craft + Estate– Diwald 2017 Fuchsentanz Riesling option. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. Winebow. —A.K. 90 (Wagram). The nose comes across as both abv: 9% Price: $36 abv: 13.5% Price: $75 flinty and creamy before bright, ripe lemon notes kick in. The palate is full of easy spritz that intensi- Dürnberg 2018 Falkenstein Riesling (Nie- Tement 2017 Ehrenhausen Muschelkalk Sau- fies these ripe lemon notions with fruit and fresh- 88 derösterreich). Pear drop candy notions 93 vignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Mirabelle ness, adding candied lemon richness. The finish is on the nose for now cover the bright lemon. The plum on the nose has an edge of flinty smoke and dry, zesty and lip-smacking. Langdon Shiverick. very light palate shows easy, juicy lemon freshness, green fern. The concentrated palate is an interplay —A.K. assisted by slight spritz, on a very light body. Just of the rounded ripeness of the stone fruit and the abv: 12.5% Price: $23 right for a summer party with its fresh, dry finish. stony, fresh tartness of citrus. The result is full- Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. flavored, animated juiciness on a light but expres- Leth 2018 Feler Weinberge Riesling abv: 12.5% Price: $17 sive body. Lovely now but will evolve. Drink 2020– 89 (Wagram). Dandelion leaf and citrus pith 2025. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. on the nose lead onto a concentrated palate which abv: 12.5% Price: $25 has more of that pithiness. The customary Riesling OTHER RIESLING freshness seems buffered but asserts itself on the Sattlerhof 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteier- lemony, dry finish. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. Hajszan Neumann 2017 Ried Steinberg 92 mark). Subtle notes of both pale and very —A.K. 92 Riesling (Vienna). Reduction on the nose ripe lemon zest on the nose have the slightest edge abv: 12.5% Price: $19 requires heavy swirling. Slowly the subtle notes of cut grass. The palate is equally subtle and adds of tangerine appear. On the palate the fruit is con- complex yeasty notes to the slender midpalate, pro- Höpler 2018 Riesling (Burgenland). Both centrated and taut, pervaded with ripeness and viding depth and nuance. There is also a creaminess 88 lemon blossom and lemon flesh play aro- freshness of tart citrus. This simply needs time but to counteract the varietal tartness. Lovely counter matically on the nose. The light, citrus-focused pal- shows its promise in the tangy, grapefruit-scented poles. The finish is long and aromatic with citrus ate has a mild, ripe freshness and more of that juicy, finish. Drink 2020–2030. Circo Vino. —A.K. and grass. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. bright lemon. This is slender, lemony and dry on the abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 12% Price: $25 finish. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Markus Huber 2018 Engelsberg Riesling Tement 2018 Gutswein Sauvignon Blanc (Süd- 91 (Traisental). A little yeast appears amid the 91 steiermark). The nose is rather subtle and lemon on the nose of this tender wine. The palate gives just a little grass with a flinty, smoky smudge NIEDERÖSTERREICH RIESLING comes in with a juicy, toned freshness and a very of reduction. The palate is light and carries hints light, slender body. Gentle lemon freshness per- of lime, cut grass and more of that smoke before Zull 2017 Innere Bergen Riesling (Niederös- vades both palate and dry finish. Broadbent Selec- passion fruit adds a little roundness. A slender, 92 terreich). Ripe, yellow Mirabelle plum on tions, Inc. —A.K. the nose is joined by vivid lemon. The palate uses abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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BUYINGGUIDE refreshing and full-flavored wine. Weygandt-Met- ing summer blossom. The palate picks up on elder- zler. —A.K. CHARDONNAY flowers and zestiness and lets them fill its slender, abv: 12.5% Price: $20 streamlined and dry body. Its verve and scentedness Wohlmuth 2016 Ried Sausaler Schlössl are a joy. Perfectly light and fragrant summer drink- Hannes Sabathi 2018 Sauvignon Blanc 94 Chardonnay (Südsteiermark). Stone, cream, ing. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. 90 (Südsteiermark). Passion fruit and freshly vanilla and yellow apple combine into a nose that abv: 11.5% Price: $20 cut grass on the nose suggest dewy, greenish fresh- promises body, texture and freshness. The palate ness. The palate projects these fruity and tart majors on the freshness and presents pure lemon Kohl 2018 Gelber Muskateller (Niederöster- notions on a very slender, juicy, easy and bright pal- that suffuses the creamy texture to great effect. A 89 reich). Elderflower and lemon sorbet on the ate, full of citrus zing. The finish is dry and appetiz- very elegant, concentrated, taut but also structured nose make for an aromatic opening that promises ing. Bliss Wine Imports. —A.K. Chardonnay that will only improve with age. Drink pure freshness. The palate gives full rein to these abv: 12.5% Price: $22 2020–2030. VOS Selections. —A.K. fresh aromatics and supports them with silky, wel- abv: 13% Price: $34 come lemon freshness. Summer wine, par excel- Umathum 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Bur- lence. Light, vivid, dry. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. 89 genland). Both passion fruit and notes of Prieler 2018 Sinner Chardonnay (Burgen- abv: 12% Price: $18 freshly cut grass are subtle on the nose, and there 92 land). Notes of Golden Delicious apple flesh also is an edge of nettle. The palate could do with and fresh lemon combine into a very attractive nose. Neumeister 2018 Gelber Muskateller (Vul- more focus but catches itself on the fresh, vivid fin- The palate seems buffered, its freshness suspended 89 kanland Steiermark). Dewy elderflower ish. Winemonger. —A.K. by lovely texture, yet bright with ripe lemon. This is notions fill the nose with their fresh, green-tinged abv: 12% Price: $15 fresh and harmonious, with lasting brightness that scent. The palate is light, easy and very slender, and waters the mouth long after the last sip. Skurnik it gives zesty citrus to the floral charms. A perfect Pratsch 2018 Ried Kittel Sauvignon Blanc Wines, Inc. —A.K. summer wine with an ultralight body. Frederick 88 (Niederösterreich). A hint of lemon and a abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. touch of lychee play on the nose. The palate is easy, abv: 11.5% Price: $21 juicy, fresh and citrusy. The body is light and fin- Zull 2017 Ried Kalvarienberg Chardonnay ishes dry with a lemony, bright echo. Winesellers, 92 (Niederösterreich). Golden Delicious apple Ltd. —A.K. notes abound on the nose. They blend in with a lac- WHITE BLENDS abv: 12.5% Price: $17 tic notion of yogurt and melted butter. The palate adds a lovely, gentle and creamy texture to the apple Wieninger 2018 Bisamberg (Wiener Gemis- Winzerkeller Andau 2018 A Sauvignon Blanc freshness and makes this a grown-up, textured and 93 chter Satz). Hay flowers, a flinty whiff of 87 (Burgenland). The nose wants to give noth- rounded Chardonnay. Alexander Vineyards. —A.K. reduction and fresh apple on the nose promise ing away and remains neutral but fresh. The palate abv: 13.5% Price: $35 freshness. The concentrated palate honors this is a little dilute when it comes to flavor, but the promise with lovely tart but ripe apple as well as body is slender and fresh with citrus hints and has Markus Altenburger 2018 vom Kalk Chardon- ripe lemon framing delightful notes of stone fruit. a dry finish. Winemonger. —A.K. 91 nay (Burgenland). Fresh, creamy notes of Stony, earthy notions echo in the background, while abv: 12% Price: $15 yeast still play on the nose, mixing with bright notes tart apple takes center stage. The finish is dry, of green and yellow apple. The palate comes in with fresh and very appetizing. Craft + Estate–Winebow. the same orchard fruit freshness and is suffused —A.K. PINOT BLANC with bright, ripe lemon. The body is light but has a abv: 13% Price: $33 lovely textured midpalate and a dry, appetizing fin- Prieler 2018 Ried Seeberg Pinot Blanc (Bur- ish. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. Bernhard Ott 2018 Gemischter Satz (Nie- 91 genland). Apple blossom and fresh apple abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 derösterreich). The beautiful aromatics of flesh notes on the nose signal freshness as well as a freshly cut russet apple are pure and pristine on subtlety. The light palate is bright and fresh and Markus Huber 2018 Dolomit Chardonnay (Nie- the nose. The palate is rounded with that juicy fruit has a lovely earthy edge that lends texture. This is 91 derösterreich). Chalk, wet pebble and lemon but contoured with freshness. This is lovely, pure, bright, pure, harmonious and utterly appetizing. on the nose bode well for freshness. The palate adds juicy and moreish, with a lasting, appetizing finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. rounded stone fruit notions of Mirabelle plum while Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25 yeasty flavors come to the fore. The finish is dry and abv: 12% Price: $NA very fresh, leaving you with lemon zing and chalki- Höpler 2018 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland). A ness. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2017 Graue Frey- 89 rather neutral nose merely suggests easy abv: 13% Price: $19 92 heit (Weinland Österreich). Saffron and iron freshness. The palate follows this with gentle lemon oxide hints on the nose have a notion of stone and notes on a slender, fresh and wonderfully light, Paul Achs 2018 Chardonnay (Burgenland). orange peel. The palate comes with exquisite slen- lemon-scented palate. This is dry, bright and utterly 90 Initial green and yellow apple notes attain derness and stony, bright citrus, reminiscent of refreshing. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. a creamier aspect and lemony zing on the nose. The dried orange peel. A lovely phenolic web of tannins abv: 13% Price: $18 palate has a lovely, yeasty texture, which rounds out gives structure and fine poise, while the finish is the slender, lemony body. The salty citrus finish is resolutely dry and wonderfully fresh. A very elegant Kracher 2016 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland). dry and very appetizing. Craft + Estate–Winebow. . Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. 89 A very prominent bruised apple notion —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $60 appears before the full sweep of Golden Delicious abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fruit unfolds. The palate is equally full-fruited and Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2017 Naked White as mellow as ripe apple flesh. The finish is dry and 92 (Weinland Österreich). Melted butter rich- very fresh. —A.K. GELBER MUSKATELLER ness on the nose combines with purest notes of abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fresh apple and hints of dried orange peel. The same Tement 2018 Gutswein Gelber Muskateller creamy intensity surrounds the palate, pervaded by 91 (Südsteiermark). Gorgeous elderflower on intense green apple freshness. This is both rich and the nose has a zesty streak of lime and shimmer-

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 slender, unusual but beguiling with its dry, vivid oil. The palate counters this with fines spritz and Steindorfer 2018 Fuchsloch Pinot Gris (Bur- finish. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. vivid freshness. The tingling dryness of the midpal- 90 genland). The nose is shy, but some notions abv: 12.5% Price: $21 ate introduces notions of blood orange peel. This of yellow pear escape. The palate is fine and bright, is concentrated and aromatic in a profound rather easy and fresh, presenting ripe pear and juicy, Hajszan Neumann 2017 Ried Weisleiten than heady fashion. Freshness and dryness prevail ripe lemon. This is easy, light and dry with a very 92 (Wiener Gemischter Satz). A touch of dried to create an absolutely elegant, full-flavored wine. refreshing finish. KWSelection.com. —A.K. hay flowers and notions of ripe, red apple combine Drink 2020–2035. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $24 on the appetizing nose. The palate comes in with abv: 14% Price: $36 precise slenderness that highlights white apple and Tement 2018 Gutswein Weissburgunder pear flesh and juiciness. There is something deeply Gebeshuber 2017 Gumpoldskirchen Zier- 90 (Südsteiermark). Notes of yellow apple zesty at the core that makes this utterly moreish 93 fandler (Thermenregion). The nose is rather ripeness are laced with zesty lemon on the nose. and so fresh. Circo Vino. —A.K. shy and gives merely the slightest hint of candied The palate unites all this into bright, friendly fruiti- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 lemon peel. The palate, however, is a jolt of intense ness on a light but slightly textured body that feels freshness and vivid fruit. Peach, guava and Mira- like peeled apple flesh. This is sunny, dry, fresh and Ingrid Groiss 2018 Braitenpuechtorff Gemis- belle plum are framed by vividly tart citrus. The wonderfully understated in its apple fruitiness. 91 chter Satz (Niederösterreich). Fresh green palate is concentrated but slender and makes an Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. apple, green pear and crushed yarrow on the nose excellent case for this rare, autochthonous variety. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 promise vivid flavors. The palate obliges with slen- Yum. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. der, clean-cut freshness, assisted by some slight abv: 13.5% Price: $37 Steindorfer 2018 (Burgen- spritz and lots of yellow apple fruitiness. This is 88 land). Pear drop candy on the nose suggests bright, easy, slender and entirely appetizing. Circo Diwald 2018 Frühroter Veltliner (Wagram). lightness and ease. The palate follows with a very Vino. —A.K. 92 Notes of ripe red apple and green pear waft slender, lithe body of lemony, bright aromatics, abv: 12.5% Price: $18 from the glass. The palate swings with ripe apple helped along by gentle spritz. The finish is dry and and a lovely pithy texture that unites citrus pith bright. KWSelection.com. —A.K. Gebeshuber 2018 Querfeldein Gemischter and zest in a lovely, concentrated fashion. Won- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 Satz (Thermenregion). Elderflower headi- derful expression with tons of freshness. Langdon ness on the nose suggests a good portion of aromatic Shiverick. —A.K. Zantho 2018 Muskat (Burgenland). Heady varieties in this vivid, fresh and summery field abv: 12% Price: $18 88 Damask rose blends in with the elderflower blend. The palate is slender and carries its elder- notes on the nose. The palate tones all this bur- flower aromas all the way to the dry finish. Vignaioli Gebeshuber 2017 Gumpoldskirchen Rot- geoning aroma down so we are left with a dry, light, Selection. —A.K. 92 gipfler (Thermenregion). A subtle hint of bright and fresh summer wine. Winemonger. Best abv: 12.5% Price: $20 quince plays on the hay flower nose. The palate is Buy. —A.K. concentrated and comes with a wonderfully harmo- abv: 12% Price: $13 Kohl 2018 Gemischter Satz (Niederöster- nious balance between red apple ripeness and juicy, 90 reich). What a gorgeous nose of creamy tart freshness. This has texture and body but stays Zantho 2018 Welschriesling (Burgenland). summer blossom. This is utterly appetizing in a slender. A real original. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. 88 A rather neutral nose gives little away. light-footed, gentle way, suggesting all the ease abv: 13.5% Price: $37 The palate, however, has a bright, juicy, lemony of summer. Lightness in body and subtle aromat- core whose freshness is helped along by gentle ics are the chief virtues here on this quintessential Gunter Triebaumer 2018 Furmint (Burgen- spritz. This is easy, dry, summery and very light. summer wine. The finish is dry and fresh. Vignaioli 92 land). Smoke, apple, brightest lemon and Winemonger. Best Buy. —A.K. Selection. —A.K. linden flower notes combine into a nose of subtlety abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 12% Price: $18 and freshness. The palate then reveals shades of apple, from freshly cut to bruised peel, all in a frame Martinshof 2018 Gemischter Satz (Niederös- of fine freshness. This is bright, lovely, textured and ROSÉS 90 terreich). A subtle nose gives only glimpses dry with a lovely salty notion on the finish. Circo of ripe apple. The palate tells us much more. It Vino. —A.K. Gunter Triebaumer 2018 von der Blaufrän- speaks of tart apple freshness, lemony slenderness abv: 13% Price: $18 90 kisch Reserve Rosé (Burgenland). A lovely and a lovely, dry, refreshing finish. Lemon bright- hit of tart cherry on the nose signals concentra- ness echoes long. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. Leth 2018 Terrassen Roter Veltliner tion. The palate follows suit with lovely, bundled abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 92 (Wagram). Notes of ripe russet pear peel and fresh notions of tart, crunchy cherry. A slightly give an earthy touch to the nose. The palate is con- more full-bodied rosé with lovely length and a dry Neumeister 2018 Gemischter Satz (Stei- centrated and has a core of ripe, juicy red apple finish. Circo Vino. —A.K. 89 ermark). Subtle freshness that combines fruit, backed by the pleasantly bitter phenolic tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 green apple, tart stone fruit and citrus on the nose ture. All this needs is hearty food. This has concen- promises freshness. The light and slender palate tration and substance as well as some lovely spritz. Ingrid Groiss 2018 Ried Hasenhaide Rosé obliges but adds lovely Mirabelle plum to the cit- The finish is dry and lasting. Domaine Select Wine 90 (Niederösterreich). Tart red currant and rus package. Slight spritz accentuates the inherent & Spirits. —A.K. fresh strawberry on the nose continue with a lit- lightness and freshness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: 12.5% Price: $19 tle spritz on the bright, fresh and citrusy palate. A Ltd. —A.K. lovely, pristine, light, dry and appetizing rosé just abv: 12% Price: $17 Umathum 2017 Traminer (Burgenland). Can- calling for summer! Look at the pretty label and 92 died Mandarin orange and Damask rose on guess the song Circo Vino. —A.K. the nose make for a heady opening. The palate coun- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 OTHER WHITE WINES ters this all with dryness and freshness and a lovely texture with some phenolic pith. The finish is aro- Esterházy 2018 Pinot Noir Rosé (Burgen- Eder 2017 Smaragd Traminer (Wachau). Rich matic, dry and rose-scented. Winemonger. —A.K. 89 land). There is a creamy, earthy touch to 94 notes of Damask rose are shaken awake with abv: 13% Price: $15 the strawberry notes on this pale pink wine. On the the first swirl. The richness almost is reminiscent of ultralight palate the fruit is fresh, gentle and lemon-

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BUYINGGUIDE edged. This is lovely, dry, light and very refreshing. and the finish is dry. This is easy but refreshing. Paul Achs 2017 Ried Golser Edelgrund Blau- Wein Bauer Inc. —A.K. Winemonger. —A.K. 92 fränkisch (Burgenland). Iron oxide, pepper abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12% Price: $13 and ripe wild blueberry on the nose make this an unmistakable Blaufränkisch. The slender palate has Höpler 2018 Pannonica Rosé (Weinland some concentration but is wonderfully fresh-faced. 89 Österreich). Green pear, lemon and red cur- BLAUFRÄNKISCH The fine acidity lets the aromatic wild blueberry rant are most appetizing on the nose. The palate notes soar, while fine tannins give a little crunch. introduces gentle, rounded but fresh strawberry Schiefer & Domaines Kilger 2015 Lutz- Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. notes on a very light, dry body. All this is supported 95 Lutzmannsburg v.v. Blaufränkisch (Burgen- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 with very slight spritz to make a refreshing summer land). Insistent, almost heady notes of tiny wild wine. USA Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. blueberries rise from the glass, promising con- Schreiner Bioweingut 2016 Rhodolith Blau- abv: 13% Price: $11 centration, aroma and freshness. The palate keeps 92 fränkisch (Burgenland). There is an overtone these promises on its elegant, sinuous body. There of charcoal and citrus on the broodingly dark nose, Pratsch 2018 Rosé (Niederösterreich). A is concentration but no heaviness, and there is followed by black cherry. The palate is balanced, 89 gentle nose reveals hints of strawberry and freshness and purity that stems from the intensity fresh and concentrated, and it carries its rich, dark lemon. The palate comes in with some spritz that of that blueberry fruit. Tannins are fine, and the cherry fruit with much poise. This is dense but not makes this even more refreshing and seemingly finish is long and fresh. Drink 2025–2035.Cellar heavy and has a dry, juicy, appetizing finish. Wine lighter than it already is. The dry finish brims with Selection. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. Wise. —A.K. lovely, tart red currant. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $59 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $13 Paul Achs 2011 Altenberg Blaufränkisch J. Heinrich 2018 Ried Siglos Blaufränkisch 94 (Burgenland). Really aromatic black cherry 91 (Burgenland). Wonderfully fresh, bright Zull 2018 Lust & Laune Rosé (Niederöster- on the nose has a lovely edge of freshly milled white and ripe notes of blueberry dance on the nose. The 89 reich). Strawberry candy on the nose prom- pepper. On the palate, a touch of cinnamon adds to slender but concentrated palate seems to push that ises easy freshness. The palate starts with juicy red that alluring, textured spice that plays off against blueberry even more, but it corsets them with fine, apple notes and off it goes into the summer with the firm but fine tannins. This is bold but has a fine firm and slightly crunchy tannins. This is juicy and easy, bright and light but very fresh fruit. Gentle freshness along its backbone. There is balance and a aromatic—a package of pure blueberry joy. Tweraser spritz accentuates the lemony, dry finish. Alexander lovely, long, elegant and spicy finish. Craft + Estate– Group of Companies. —A.K. Vineyards. —A.K. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $40 Nittnaus Anita und Hans 2017 Kalk & Schiefer Hareter 2018 Rosé (Burgenland). Very Schiefer & Domaines Kilger 2016 szapary “s” 91 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Aromatic white 88 creamy, earthy notes of strawberry compote 94 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Bright, pep- pepper notes register first on the nose. These are on the nose turn into very fresh, bright and vivid pery freshness of tiny wild tart blueberries streams followed by ripe blueberry and red cherry notes. fresh strawberry on the bright, light, easy palate. from the glass. The palate adds the allure of darker, The palate is juicy, bold, expressive and alive with The finish is off-dry and moreish. Soilair Selection. riper cherry but always stays on the path of vivid all that fruit, vivid, enlivening freshness and a —A.K. freshness. There is concentration and a grace- crunch of fine tannins. There is nothing heavy about abv: 10% Price: $16 ful tannic structure that crunches ever so slightly. this, yet there is abundant fruit and flavor. Pack this This is fresh, bold and made to last, even though its in your picnic basket for superior fun. Frederick Netzl 2018 Rosanna Rosé (Weinland Öster- youthful charm is most seductive right now. Drink Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 88 reich). There is a certain creaminess on the 2020–2030. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 nose of this vibrant, dry rosé that moves through abv: 13% Price: $51 to the palate. A rounded, smooth but dry wine on a Hillinger 2017 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). light, easy body. KWSelection.com. —A.K. Paul Achs 2016 Ried Golser Ungerberg Blau- 90 Very ripe, almost lifted notes of blueberry abv: 13% Price: $17 93 fränkisch (Burgenland). A lightly lifted note rise from the glass. The palate adds a hint of cin- of Amarena cherry on the nose gives this an almost namon to the vivid berry notes that swish juicily Waldschütz 2018 vom Zweigelt Rosé (Nie- Italian twist. The body is full, the tannins are across the palate. The palate is slender, dry and 87 derösterreich). An edge of rhubarb and rus- smooth, and the fruit is ripe. There is ripe red and fresh—a very full-fruited expression of blueberry. set pear peel accompany the cherry notions on the black cherry along with a hint of plum. Yet there is a KWSelection.com. —A.K. nose. The palate is easy, light and fresh, supported backbone of freshness on this sumptuous wine. The abv: 12% Price: $20 by a little spritz. The dry finish shows candied finish is a little warm, but this is one for cold winter strawberry. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. nights. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. Schreiner Bioweingut 2017 Blaufränkisch abv: 12.5% Price: $13/1 L abv: 14% Price: $40 90 (Burgenland). Black cherry on the nose has an edge of blueberry. The lovely, light palate brings Weingut Frank 2018 Herrnbaumgarten Rosé Schiefer & Domaines Kilger 2015 Schiefer wonderful juiciness and bright freshness and lets 87 (Niederösterreich). A notion of spice informs 93 reserve Blaufränkisch (Eisenberg). A pep- those black cherry and blueberry notes swirl. There the strawberry hints on the nose. The palate is easy pery lift precedes a nose that already spells con- is just a light web of tannins to corral all of that and light, brimming with strawberry compote. The centration with its insistent notes of blueberry fruit. This is a light but pure red, ideal for chilling in finish is dry and citrusy. August Wine Group. —A.K. freshness. The palate is concentrated and reveals summer. Wine Wise. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $19 edges of flinty reduction, but also a spicy, savory abv: 13% Price: $18 gaminess. There is a firm web of fine tannins and a Zantho 2018 Pink Rosé (Burgenland). The lovely, sinuous slenderness that bundles everything Hareter 2015 ohne Blaufränkisch (Weinland 87 nose is rather restrained, but the pal- into fine concentration. The finish is dry and last- 89 Österreich). A savory hint of game plays ate brings easy, juicy, slightly tingling freshness. ing. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. most subtly on the nose. The palate comes in with The body is light, the cherry-tinged fruit is fresh, abv: 13.5% Price: $63 both ripeness and crunch. There is juicy dark forest fruit but also the crunch of freshness and slightly rustic tannin. A lovely wine to pair with hearty, full-

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 flavored food. The finish is dry and appetizing. Soil- watering finish. An elegant but still fruit-driven becomes more fully fleshed on the light, juicy pal- air Selection. —A.K. Zweigelt. Circo Vino. —A.K. ate, expanding with its aromatic and dark freshness. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $24 The combination of full-fruited generosity and juicy lightness marks this out as a perfect party wine. Höpler 2016 Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Umathum 2017 Zweigelt (Burgenland). A Winemonger. —A.K. 89 Both pepper and violet are captured on the 91 touch of reduction needs to dissipate before abv: 13% Price: $15 nose of this light-bodied, fresh-faced wine. The pal- juicy, vivid and wonderfully tart cherry notes can ate has the smoothest, lightest tannins but lovely, take over. They are starting to party on the viva- ready, bright red cherry notes, edged with spice. cious, slender palate, where juicy freshness reigns. PINOT NOIR This easy, aroma-driven style is ideal for chilling in A lovely, wonderfully unpretentious Zweigelt with summer. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. real verve. Winemonger. —A.K. Wieninger 2017 Select Pinot Noir (Vienna). abv: 113% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 93 The nose is a little shy but permits glimpses of very fresh, bright, tart cherry and a little graph- Schiefer & Domaines Kilger 2016 “e” vom Hugl-Wimmer 2016 HuglWeine Zweigelt ite or pebble. On the palate it is the sinuous shape 89 blauen schiefer Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). 89 (Niederösterreich). Bright, tart red cherry that captivates first. This is translucent and slender A gamy, animalistic note plays on the nose. The on the nose suggests ease from the start. The light but anchored in depth. Red-fruited notes of fresh juicy palate adds tart blueberry notes to this and body does not disappoint and is a picture of fresh- cherry and red currant are held in a taut but elas- makes for a rustic, fresh and refreshing red that ness. Juicy cherry is the main attraction on the tic frame of finely woven tannin. This has immense would be just right for the picnic basket. The finish smooth, translucent body. This will work perfectly charm, great freshness and even greater elegance. is dry and bright. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. when chilled as a red refreshment. Kysela Père et Wait for this—it will blossom. Drink 2025–2035. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Fils. —A.K. Cellar Selection. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $15/1 L abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Winzerkeller Andau 2017 A Blaufränkisch 89 (Burgenland). Cinnamon, juicy plum and Winzerkeller Andau 2016 a Selection Zwei- Zull 2015 Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). black cherry unite on the nose. The light and easy 89 gelt (Burgenland). Notes of ripe red and 92 Vanilla, bottled strawberry and a hint of palate makes the fruit extra fleshy. Subtle fresh- black cherry are bundled on the nose. They spread undergrowth make for an aromatic nose. The pal- ness underlines the juicy, light-footed but full- out on the juicy, light and bright palate with easy, ate is smooth and rounded, revealing lovely layers fruited nature of this smooth, rounded, mellow red. conquering freshness and expansive fruitiness. This of gentle red berry and riper, smooth cherry along Winemonger. —A.K. is one of those light reds that are ideal for chilling in with hints of cinnamon and pepper. A fine seam of abv: 13% Price: $15 summer. The finish is dry and fruity. Winemonger. freshness pervades the palate, which has knitted —A.K. together harmoniously with its web of silky tan- Esterházy 2017 Estoras Blaufränkisch (Bur- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 nins. A smooth, honest and light-footed Pinot Noir. 88 genland). Black cherry and blueberry make Alexander Vineyards. —A.K. for a dark-fruited but appetizing nose. The light pal- The Dot 2018 Austrian Cherry Zweigelt (Nie- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 ate is vivid with freshness but could also do with 88 derösterreich). Juicy, rounded and rather a little more focus. The fruit toward the dry finish ripe cherry notes on the nose carry seamlessly onto Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2017 Reserve becomes very mellow. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.K. the light but smooth palate. A dash of vanilla makes 90 Pinot Noir (Burgenland). Notes of bramble abv: 13.5% Price: $22 the cherry seem all the creamier on this easy-drink- and plum define the nose. On the palate these fruity ing little fruit bomb. This will also work well when flavors spread across the mellow yet slender body J. Heinrich 2018 vom Weingebirge Blaufrän- chilled. Taub Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.K. and make for rounded freshness. Sonorous oak 88 kisch (Burgenland). The nose is still a little abv: 13% Price: $13 rounds everything out with vanilla, and the finish reduced, and the fruit is therefore subdued. The is reminiscent of very mellow Red Delicious apple. palate shows easy, juicy crunch of dark berry and GP Imports. —A.K. some forest fruit and a lovely, sinuous concentra- ST. LAURENT abv: 13% Price: $24 tion on the dry, juicy finish. Tweraser Group of Companies. —A.K. Umathum 2017 St. Laurent (Burgenland). Höpler 2017 Pinot Noir (Burgenland). The abv: 13% Price: $20 90 Very ripe black cherry casts a brooding 89 merest touch of undergrowth and cinna- aspect on the nose. The palate comes in to relieve mon play on the red currant-fruited nose of this the brooding aroma with bright freshness. The body tender Pinot Noir. The palate is light, translucent, ZWEIGELT is slender and suffused with bright, crunchy, fresh really smooth and rounded while staying fresh. This cherry. The finish is dry and vivid. Winemonger. is gentle, light and aromatic with a dry finish. USA Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2017 Selection —A.K. Wine Imports. —A.K. 93 Zweigelt (Burgenland). Vivid blueberry and abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 juicy black cherry leap from the glass. The palate is concentrated and frames this intense fruit with The Dot 2018 Austrian Plum St. Laurent freshness and verve. Subtle spice shimmers on this 89 (Niederösterreich). A vanilla and cinnamon CABERNET FRANC little pleasure bomb that manages to be energetic in note joins the dark plum and blueberry fruit on the its harmonious balance. Lovely. GP Imports. —A.K. nose. The light body sweeps juicily across the pal- Schreiner Bioweingut 2015 Confidentia Cab- abv: 13% Price: $16 ate, delighting with easy fruit and ripe freshness. 91 ernet Franc (Burgenland). Cinnamon and dill There is more plum and cinnamon resonance on the on the nose announce oak. The palate carries these Hajszan Neumann 2015 Nussberg Zweigelt smooth, rounded finish. Taub Family Selections. over to frame tart and vivid red cherry. The body 91 (Vienna). Fruit of the forest compote notes Best Buy. —A.K. is light, crunchy and red-fruited, but for now the shine with subtle vanilla on the inviting nose. The abv: 13.5% Price: $13 cinnamon overwhelms all. Fine tannins coat the palate adds cinnamon spice to these notions and tongue, and the dry finish rings with spice. Wine comes in with both concentration and slenderness. Winzerkeller Andau 2017 A St. Laurent Wise. —A.K. Bright freshness gives focus and makes for a mouth- 89 (Burgenland). A lovely note of aromatic, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 ripe black cherry rises from the glass. The fruit

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berries. The body is light, and the finish is dry and Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Pyrgos RED BLENDS smooth. USA Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.K. 89 Assyrtiko (Santorini). The nose on this wine abv: 13% Price: $11 offers tropical fruit, floral and mineral aromas. On Stift Klosterneuburg 2016 Escorial (Ther- the palate, flavors of apricot, peach, vanilla and sea 92 menregion). A lovely, smoky hint of cedar salt are generous but tied up with a nice, clean fin- creeps into the cherry and blueberry notes of the GREECE ish. Elegant and expressive. Diamond Importers Inc. nose. The palate fleshes everything out with creamy, —S.K. rounded but fresh cherry and berry, all caught in a ASSYRTIKO abv: 14.2% Price: $80 fine web of gauzy tannins. The finish is fresh and bold. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Imer- Domaine Sigalas 2017 7 Villages Vourvou- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 93 govigli Assyrtiko (Santorini). From the 88 los Assyrtiko (Santorini). Lemon preserves, higher altitudes of Santorini, this lean and smol- crushed herbs and peach aromas lead this distinc- Wieninger 2016 Wiener Trilogie (Vienna). dering white starts with aromas of smoke, sea salt, tive white. On the palate, it offers sweet vanilla 91 Juicy red cherry, ripe plum and vivid blue- and white flowers. The style is fresh and focused, and pineapple fruit, with a spicy finish. Diamond berry make for an aromatic trio on the nose. The with flavors of minerals, citrus rind and spice. A Importers Inc. —S.K. palate surprises with its toned, slender freshness delicious expression of its unique volcanic terroir abv: NA Price: $80 and an immense, concentrated but lightly worn and location, this is a wine with pedigree and aging juiciness. The palate remains slender and fresh but potential. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages- also vivid with all of that bold fruit. Craft + Estate– abv: 14.3% Price: $80 88 Akrotiri Assyrtiko (Santorini). After opening Winebow. —A.K. up, this wine has a curvier style, with creamy vanilla abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Mega- and tropical fruit flavors and aromas of pear, spice 93 lachori Assyrtiko (Santorini). Full-bodied and sea salt. Backed by good minerality and struc- Zull 2016 Schrattenthal 9 (Niederösterreich). aromas of tropical fruit, honey and smoke reveal the ture, it has definite aging potential. A long finish 91 Vanilla and cinnamon on the nose frame complexity of what is to come here. The wine offers adds to the appeal. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. a core of ripe, aromatic forest fruits. The sinuous a beautiful balance of saline, smoke, citrus fruit and abv: 14.8% Price: $80 palate plays that same berry and spice game with slate. It has definite aging potential and an overall lovely and bright expression. Vanilla dominates the memorable character very unique to its location. Vassaltis 2017 Assyrtiko (Santorini). Lemon smooth, fresh finish of this internationally styled Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 87 preserves, smoke and citrus start this exotic Austrian. Magellan Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: NA Price: $80 and refreshing white. On the palate, rounded tropi- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 cal flavors mingle with bitter lemon zest and smoke Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Fira elements. A conversation starter and good wine Hillinger 2017 Small Hill Red (Burgenland). 91 Assyrtiko (Santorini). Citrus, sea salt and for summer fare like grilled fish, salads. Diamond 89 Both red and black cherry notes immedi- tropical fruit aromas give this wine a distinc- Importers Inc. —S.K. ately strike the nose. The palate takes this juicy, tive start. It offers a fruit-forward palate of sweet abv: 13.8% Price: $42 vivid fruit and adds a smooth lick of vanilla that oranges, vanilla and honey. Broader in style, it’s a makes this creamy and mellow despite the evident wine that will please fans of more expressive Assyr- freshness. This is easy, dry and brimming with fruit. tiko’s. Overall, balanced and complex. Diamond MOSCHOFILERO KWSelection.com. —A.K. Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 14.3% Price: $80 Nasiakos 2017 Moschofilero (Mantinia). 92 Orange peel, lemon blossom and peach aro- Jordan 2016 Cuvée 1858-Memories & Gen- Domaine Sigalas 2017 Seven Villages Oia mas are elegant and expressive here and lead into 89 erations (Niederösterreich). Notes of ripe 91 Assyrtiko (Santorini). This white has aromas elegant waves of bitter lemon, minerals and stone black cherry on the nose have a hint of creaminess of rich tropical fruit and minerals, followed by fla- fruit. Refined and fresh a definite food wine. Stellar and vanilla. The light palate is juicy and makes the vors of vanilla, smoke and more tropical fruit with a Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. most of that cream, vanilla and cherry trio, which taut spin of citrus. Generous but still focused over- abv: 12% Price: $16 combine into an easy-drinking, smooth and silky all, it’s an apt expression of Santorini’s ancient ter- red. Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants. —A.K. roir. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Nasiakos 2017 Mantinia Moschofilero (Man- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14.7% Price: $80 91 tinia). Stone fruit and mineral aromas lead this brisk and exotic wine from Nasiakos. On the Hareter 2017 Naturschönheit (Weinland Avantis 2017 Dolphins Assyrtico (Santorini). palate, it offers a brisk profile of apricot, lemon 88 Österreich). A gamy spiciness on the nose 90 Aromas of passionfruit and citrus intro- rind and peach with a clean finish. Poised and food- makes this seem rather rustic. The palate comes in duce this appealing wine, whose brisk and mineral- driven. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. with the same animalistic savoriness but adds fresh driven flavors are layered with tropical fruit and abv: 12% Price: $19 red cherry and juicy blackberry. The palate stays citrus. Elegant but approachable, it’s a great intro- light and is smooth but fresh. It is the spiciness that duction to this distinctive variety and a go-to sum- Greek Wine Cellars 2017 Moschofilero (Pelo- lingers, along with ripe, smooth but slight tannins. mer pour. Nestor Imports. —S.K. 89 ponnese). Aromas of orange blossom, tart Soilair Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 lemon and peach are layered and refreshing in this abv: 12% Price: $19 classic Moscofilero. The wine offers structure and Domaine Sigalas 2017 Kavalieros Assyrtiko finesse with flavors of peach and lemon rind. A min- Höpler 2015 Pannonica (Weinland Öster- 90 (Santorini). Tropical fruit and sea salt aro- eral finish gives it focus. Nestor Imports. —S.K. 88 reich). Notes of juicy, ripe black cherry play mas are followed by classic flavors of salt, slate and abv: 12% Price: $15/1.5 L on the nose. The palate picks them up with ease soft tropical fruit in this single-vineyard pour. The and freshness while adding a little cinnamon spice. wine ends with a spicy, smoky finish. Refined but Semeli 2017 Thea Moschofilero (Mantinia). There is a lovely, central freshness that brings out approachable. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. 89 The Thea has a fragrant, expressive nose of the inherent juiciness of cherry, plum and forest abv: 14% Price: $97 vanilla, stone fruit and spice, followed by mouthfill- ing flavors of peach, tropical fruit and citrus. The

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 wine finishes taut with a slate spin. Overall, easy- mas roll into mouthwatering flavors of citrus and ing it can pair with heartier dishes as well as lighter drinking and pretty. Athenee Importers. —S.K. honey in this intriguing pour. The wine offers ripe fare. Athenee Importers. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $30 fruit with a zesty and savory backbone ending on abv: 13% Price: $38 a chalky finish. USA Wine West.Best Buy. —S.K. Zacharias 2017 Moschofilero (Peloponnese). abv: 12% Price: $15 Kourtaki NV Vin de Crete Vilana (Crete). Aro- 87 Floral aromas of jasmine, rose petal and 89 mas of plum, black cherry and dried fruit citrus blossom give this wine a softer feel from the Wine Art Estate 2017 Techni Alipias lead into a vibrant balance of red fruit and spice. start. On the palate, it’s delicate, with rose, pineap- 90 (Drama). Grapefruit and floral aromas are Clean, focused but complex. Nestor Imports. Best ple and lemon flavors supported by good acidity and followed by flavors of mouthpuckering citrus zest, Buy. —S.K. structure. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K. honey and tropical fruit. The wine has a linear qual- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 ity but offers complexity of fruit mingled with the brisk acidity. Elegant and intriguing. R&R Selec- Lyrarakis 2016 Kotsifali (Crete). Warming tions LLC. —S.K. 89 spices, kirsch and mocha on the nose of this OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $NA elegant red are followed by terroir-driven flavors of tomato, olive and dried herbs on the palate. The Lyrarakis 2017 Ippodromos Vineyard Vidiano Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2018 Amethystos wine finishes with a spin of smoke. An exotic pour 91 (Crete). Delicate aromas of stone fruit and 88 Blanc Sauvignon Blanc-Assyrtiko (Drama). that’s a good match for lighter fare. USA Wine West. citrus start this superior white from Crete. It offers Grapefruit and lemon aromas offer a fresh start —S.K. refined citrus, honey and white fruit flavors and a to this friendly white from northern Greece. Lean abv: 13% Price: $16 backbone of fresh minerality. Very pretty with com- lemon and grapefruit flavors and a touch of salinity plexity to add to it appeal. USA Wine West. —S.K. keep the wine focused, but the overall character is Tsantali 2015 Abaton Xinomavro-Grenache- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 accessible and fun. Nestor Imports. —S.K. 88 Limnio (Mount Athos). Clove, tobacco and abv: 13% Price: $20 vanilla aromas dominate the nose of this red blend. Lyrarakis 2017 Armi Thrapsathiri (Crete). On the palate, rich flavors of red fruit and savory 90 This rare variety starts with aromas of Ktima Pavlidis 2017 Thema Sauvignon Blanc- spice mingle with flavors of cherry, nutmeg and rich , toasted nut and herbs, leading into 88 Assyrtiko (Drama). The Thema Assyrtiko/ dried fruit. The wine has good tannic structure and generous flavors of tropical fruit and a zesty lemon- Sauvignon Blanc blend offers a combination of brisk can age. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. lime finish. Focused and fresh, with a friendly over- focus and opulent expression. The fragrant aromas abv: 13% Price: $20 all appeal. USA Wine West. —S.K. are driven by pineapple and banana as well as lemon abv: 13.5% Price: $21 rind, and flavors of sea salt, tropical fruit and citrus Lyrarakis 2015 Aggelis Liatiko (Crete). Cedar, follow. A go-to food wine that bridges seasons and 87 tomato and olive aromas give this wine a Lyrarakis 2017 Vilana (Crete). This wine flavors. Craft + Estate–Winebow. —S.K. plucky start. On the palate, it offers elegant cedar, 89 offers floral and lemon aromas, followed abv: 13.5% Price: $22 cigarbox, quince and dried herb flavors. The finish is by a full-bodied but vibrant layering of citrus and spicy and vibrant. Pair with smoked cheeses, grilled tropical fruit. It finishes brisk and bouncy. Pair with Domaine Costa Lazaridi 2017 Amethystos poultry or cured meats. USA Wine West. —S.K. poultry or summer salads. USA Wine West. —S.K. 87 Blanc (Drama). Pear, pineapple and citrus abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 12% Price: $16 give this summer white a great start. On the palate, flavors of citrus, pineapple and spice are balanced Douloufakis 2018 Dafnios Vidiano (Crete). and refreshing. A patio wine with finesse. Nestor ISRAEL 88 Tropical fruit and apricot aromas and a Imports. —S.K. palate of creamy tropical fruit and minerals give abv: 13% Price: $18 CHARDONNAY this wine a decidedly Greek character. Fresh and balanced in the finish, it’s an easy-drinking Vidi- Five Stones 2017 Nobility Chardonnay ano that will pair well with spicy cuisine and salty RED WINES 88 (Judean Hills). This deep straw-colored cheeses. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. wine has a nose of apple and crème brûlée. It is abv: 13% Price: $17 Douloufakis 2017 Dafnios Liatiko (Crete). creamy on the palate, with flavors of pear, lemon 91 Aromas of red currants, dark chocolate and curd and butterscotch that wind down to a soft tof- Lyrarakis 2017 Psarades Vineyards Plyto black cherry start this delicious red from Crete. fee finish. Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —M.D. 87 (Crete). Zippy citrus and tropical fruit aro- Structured and focused on the palate, its flavors of abv: 14.5% Price: $50 mas start this robust white made from a nearly red berry and spices have a refined overall charac- extinct ancient variety. The palate is rife with ripe ter. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. Recanati 2017 Reserve Chardonnay (Gali- pear, pineapple and lemon. Great acidity and struc- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 88 lee). This light-straw-colored wine offers ture with a clean finish. USA Wine West. —S.K. aromas of apple and lavender. It has good mouth- abv: 13% Price: $21 Tsantali 2015 Mavroudi (Greece). Savory aro- feel, with flavors of cantaloupe, Seville orange and 91 mas of dried sausage, black pepper and plum Granny Smith apple and a slightly minty finish. are followed by lush layers of smoke, red currants Kosher. Palm Bay International. —M.D. WHITE BLENDS and olive on the palate. The wine has poise and abv: 12.5% Price: $30 finesse and will age 10-plus more years. Pair with Nico Lazaridi 2016 Cavalieri (Drama). Pine- grilled meats, steak. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. David’s Land 2017 Elevation Chardonnay 91 apple, grapefruit and floral aromas lead into abv: 13% Price: $NA 87 (Judean Hills). Aromas of lemon zest and juicy and mouthwatering flavors of tropical fruit on butterscotch lead the way to flavors of toasted pine- the palate. Brisk acidity and a citrus finish add to its Theopetra Estate 2015 Limniona (Meteora). apple, passion fruit and vanilla. It is well-balanced elegant character. Fantis Imports, Inc. —S.K. 90 Anise, allspice, cherry, minerals and dried on the palate and has a smooth finish. Kosher. Allied abv: 12.5% Price: $NA herbal aromas start the nose on this ancient variety. Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. On the palate, black cherry, smoke and savory meat abv: 13% Price: $NA Lyrarakis 2017 Muscat of Spina-Vidiano flavors are layered with a brisk minerality. The wine 90 (Crete). Opulent kiwi and passionfruit aro- has good complexity and moderate tannins, mean-

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Recanati 2017 Chardonnay (Galilee). A bou- pineapple finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. to a slightly spicy finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- 87 quet of white peach and rose petal prepares —M.D. ration. —M.D. the palate for flavors of nectarine, honeydew and abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 12% Price: $20 white flowers. A harmonious mix of fruit and flo- ral flavors meld into a soft, perfumed finish. Kosher. Or Haganuz 2018 Amuka Blanc Sauvignon Recanati 2017 Marawi (Judean Hills). Offer- Palm Bay International. —M.D. 84 Blanc-Chardonnay (Galilee). This wine has a 87 ing a bouquet of pear and honeydew, this abv: 12% Price: $17 bouquet of grapefruit and jasmine. Flavors of yellow wine has flavors of pink grapefruit, lemon and green cherry, grapefruit and bitter almond meld on the apple. Bold fruit flavors recede into a finish marked Carmel 2017 Selected Dry White Wine Char- palate, dissipating into an orange blossom finish. by a soft floral note. Kosher. Palm Bay International. 86 donnay (Judean Hills). Aromas of toasted Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. —M.D. pineapple and green apple peel set the stage for abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $35 flavors of grapefruit, lime and freesia. This wine is full in the mouth, with a strong sense of acidity that Segal’s 2018 Fusion Dry White Wine Char- Carmel 2017 Kayoumi Vineyard Riesling (Gal- lingers through the animated finish. Kosher. Royal 84 donnay-Sauvignon Blanc (Galilee). This 86 ilee). This wine has aromas of grapefruit Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. wine has a nose of apples and crème brûlée. It is a and juniper berry. It fills the mouth with intense abv: 12.5% Price: $11 tiny bit stiff at first sip, but the mouthfeel softens acidity and flavors of green pear, apple, lemon and as flavors of slightly underripe pear, Granny Smith white flowers that evaporate into a soft floral finish. Dalton 2018 Estate Unoaked Chardonnay apple and white chocolate appear on the palate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 86 (Galilee). This wine offers a bouquet of There is a mild note of almond blossom on the fin- abv: 12% Price: $25 lemon sorbet and rose petal. There are touches of ish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. salinity across the palate amid flavors of pineapple abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Vitkin 2017 Collector’s Edition Grenache and passion fruit with a trace of iodine. Kosher. 84 Blanc (Galilee). Aromas of lemon zest and Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. white peach with a touch of petrol prepare the taste abv: 13% Price: $15 SAUVIGNON BLANC buds for flavors of nectarine, guava and candied violets that recede into a toasted nut finish. Kosher. Golan Heights Winery 2016 Yarden Odem Barkan 2018 Classic Sauvignon Blanc Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 86 Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee). Medium 85 (Israel). This wine offers a nose of pear and abv: 13% Price: $45 straw in color, this wine has aromas of pear and citrus zest. It is smooth in the mouth, with flavors toast. It is bright on entry, with flavors of pineapple, of lemon-lime, passion fruit and bitter almond and lemon and brioche and a lemon zest finish. Kosher. a slightly salty finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- SPARKLING WINE Yarden Wines, Inc. —M.D. tion. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $10 Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden Blanc 88 de Blancs Brut (Galilee). This gold-colored Hayotzer 2017 Virtuoso Chardonnay (Shom- Carmel 2017 Selected Sauvignon Blanc (Gali- wine is lightly effervescent in the glass. It is very 86 ron). With a soft nose of white flowers and 85 lee). Aromas of lemon and chopped pars- bright on the palate from entry to finish, with fla- citrus, this wine has flavors of lemon, grapefruit, ley are the precursor to flavors of pink grapefruit, vors of pineapple and grapefruit intermingled with and river rock. It is a touch stiff at first, but retains Seville orange and hazelnut. This wine is bright notes of baking bread. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. its brightness through a lemon curd finish. Kosher. in the mouth, offering a zesty, citrus-laced finish. —M.D. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 11% Price: $11

Dalton 2018 Estate Oak Aged Fumé Blanc ROSÉS WHITE BLENDS 85 (Galilee). Pale straw in the glass, this wine has aromas of lime and green pepper. It is savory at Nadiv 2018 Reshit Rosé (Judean Hills). Deep Domaine du Castel 2017 La Vie Blanc du Cas- first sip, with strong chopped green herb notes, but 88 sunset pink in the glass, this wine features 87 tel (Haut-Judeé). This wine features aromas then fruit flavors fills the palate, notably mango and a bouquet of watermelon and cherry. More than just of green apple and coffee. Notes of almond blossom guava that lead into a bold grapefruit finish. Kosher. a summer splash, it offers sophisticated mouthfeel make their way through flavors of pink grapefruit, Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. and flavors of strawberry, raspberry, thyme, oregano lemon and marzipan. A pervading sense of bright- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and orange zest with a bright finish. Kosher. Royal ness lingers from first sip through the lively finish. Wine Corporation. —M.D. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $25 OTHER WHITE WINES Five Stones 2017 D vs G Rosé (Judean Hills). Recanati 2018 Yasmin White Chardonnay- Carmel 2017 Appellation Gewürztraminer 87 Deep apricot in color, this wine has a nose 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Galilee). A bouquet of 87 (Judean Hills). A clean nose of nectarine of peach and yellow cherry. It is slightly creamy on apples and spice sets the stage for flavors of lemon- leads to a nice mix of tropical fruit and flowery fla- the palate, with flavors of orange sorbet, strawberry lime, grapefruit and guava. This pale-straw-colored vors including pineapple, mango, orange blossom and raspberry and a refreshing lemon sorbet finish. wine is bright in the mouth and offers a refreshing, and a strong dose of rose petal that delivers through Kosher. Happy Hearts Wine LLC. —M.D. citrus-filled finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. the floral finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. abv: 14% Price: $30 Best Buy. —M.D. —M.D. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Recanati 2018 Gris de Marselan Rosé (Gali- 87 lee). This medium-blush-colored wine has Yatir 2017 Mt. Amasa White (Judean Hills). Or Haganuz 2017 Amuka Single Vineyard a bouquet of white peach and guava. It is bright 85 This wine has a highly perfumed nose of 87 Gewürztraminer (Galilee). Aromas of honey- at first sip, with flavors of cantaloupe, apricot and lilac and violet. It is soft in the mouth, with fla- dew and lavender set the stage for flavors of Granny grapefruit that lead to a lemon-lime finish. Kosher. vors of lemon, pear and meadow flowers and a light Smith apple, white peach and violet that wind down Palm Bay International. —M.D. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 Recanati 2018 Rosé (Galilee). Deep coral in mocha. It is palate pleasing from first sip through erful tannins support flavors of blackberry, dark 86 the glass, this wine has a nose of nectarine the bright and spicy finish, with substantial tan- plum, espresso and smoked meat. It may be a touch and white flowers. It is very bright on the palate, nins and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, crème too tart for some palates, especially toward the with flavors of lemon and pink grapefruit and a brûlée and anise. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, cranberry-laced finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpo- cranberry finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. Ltd. —M.D. ration. —M.D. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $20 abv: 11% Price: $17 Dalton 2016 Single Vineyard Zivon Cabernet Carmel 2017 Selected Dry Red Wine Cabernet Yatir 2018 Rosé (Judean Hills). Deep blush 90 Sauvignon (Galilee). This wine has aromas 87 Sauvignon (Shomron). This wine features a 86 to the eye, this wine has aromas of canta- of blackberry and anisette. It is spicy at first, with bouquet of just-picked cherries and nutmeg. Fla- loupe and strawberry. It is refreshing on the palate flavors of clove, anise, vanilla and coffee bean, but vors of cherry cola, raspberry and fennel bulb are while offering full mouthfeel, with flavors of yellow strong cherry and violet also fill the mouth. Tena- set into sturdy tannins that drop off into a zippy cherry, Seville orange and marzipan and a ripe peach cious tannins and rich spice make for a long-lasting pomegranate finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. tion. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 12% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $11

Jacques Capsouto 2017 Cuvee Eva Cotes de Gva’ot 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Shom- Hayotzer 2017 Vintner’s Select Cabernet Sau- 85 Galilee Village Rosé (Galilee). Soft peach to 90 ron). With a nose of mixed berry pie and a 87 vignon (Judean Hills). This wine offers aro- the eye, this wine offers a bouquet of strawberries tiny hint of green pepper, this wine offers flavors of mas of dark plum and flint. Vigorous tannins offer and freshly chopped green herbs. It is smooth on black cherry, strawberry, dark chocolate and clove. a framework for flavors of raspberry, cherry, vanilla the palate, with flavors of lemon-lime and orange Rugged tannins are equally matched by bracing and mint. The mint can come on a little too strong marmalade that wrap up in a pomegranate finish. acidity, and the finish is noted for a splash of cran- for some palates, but it recedes nicely into a cool Kosher. Solstars. —M.D. berry. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. herbal finish.Mevushal . Kosher. Allied Importers, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 USA, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.3% Price: $12 Hayotzer 2016 Special Edition Cabernet CABERNET SAUVIGNON 90 Sauvignon (Galilee). Deep garnet in the Recanati 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). glass, this wine has a nose of black cherry and flint. 87 With aromas of raspberry, clove and vanilla, Barkan 2016 20 Months Barrel Aged Reserve It is bright on entry, with flavors of cherry, cherry this wine offers flavors of strawberry, cranberry and 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galil). For full review cola, roasted meat and a touch of mint. Vigorous chocolate. It is soft in the mouth, with smooth tan- see page 9. Kosher. tannins take hold of the palate and hang on into a nins and a note of lemon zest on the finish. Kosher. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lively, high-acid finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, Palm Bay International. —M.D. USA, Ltd. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Hayotzer 2016 Auteur Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $30 92 (Galilee). Dark violet to the eyes, this wine Barkan 2017 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon proffers a bouquet of dark plums, cassis and vanilla. Teperberg 2017 Impression Cabernet Sauvi- 86 (Galil). This deep blackberry-colored wine It has flavors of blackberry, cherry pie, fennel and 90 gnon (Samson). Aromas of cassis and dark has a nose of cassis and espresso. Rugged tannins white chocolate, with vivid acidity that holds its chocolate are the opening act for flavors of rasp- support flavors of black currant, raspberry, dark own against substantial tannins. There is a touch berry, black currant, cocoa and orange zest. This chocolate and eucalyptus. The lingering finish is of smoke on the finish that disappears in a burst well-balanced wine offers muscular tannins and marked with strong minty notes. Mevushal. Kosher. of cranberry brightness. Kosher. Allied Importers, vibrant acidity with touches of brightness on the Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. USA, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. coffee bean finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $18 Shiloh Winery 2016 Secret Reserve Cabernet MERLOT 91 Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Deep black cherry Hayotzer 2016 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon in color, this wine has a nose of black plum, roasted 89 (Galilee). This dark violet-red wine features Shiloh Winery 2016 Secret Reserve Merlot red pepper and violet. It is sophisticated on the pal- aromas of cassis and juniper berry. It has flavors of 92 (Judean Hills). Inky garnet in the glass, this ate, with robust tannins and flavors of dark berries, black currant, cherry, fennel and a hint of smoke, wine features a bouquet of pomegranate, violet coffee, mocha and anise. Fruit takes a back seat on with vivid acidity that stands up to burly tannins. and smoke. It offers a palate-pleasing mix of fruit, the finish, which highlights notes of spice and choc- Although the long finish is marked with notes of cit- savory and spice flavors, in particular cassis, dark olate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. rus zest, tannins linger on the palate. Kosher. Allied plums, clove, anise, sage and smoked meat. Promi- abv: 15% Price: $45 Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. nent tannins slowly dissolve into a clove-tinged fin- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 ish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. Benhaim Family Winery 2012 Reserve Cab- abv: 15.5% Price: $45 90 ernet Sauvignon (Upper Galilee). Aromas Galil Mountain 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon of mixed berry preserves and geranium leaf prepare 88 (Upper Galilee). Black cherry to the eye, Gva’ot 2017 Merlot (Shomron). This wine has the palate for flavors of fruits of the wood, dark this wine offers a nose of fruits of the wood. There 91 a nose of dark plums with a touch of green chocolate, tobacco leaf and orange zest. Strong fruit is a nice balance of bright fruit and silky tannins, pepper. A network of velvety tannins provides a flavors and acidity compensate for strong tannins. with flavors of blackberry, cassis, white chocolate background for flavors of black cherry, blackberry, The long, satisfying finish is marked by a final touch and baking spice that wind down to a vanilla-laced toffee, smoked meat and green pepper. The finish is of brightness. Kosher. Rashbi Wine. —M.D. finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —M.D. slightly spicy. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $16 —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Dalton 2017 Estate Oak Aged Cabernet Carmel 2017 Appellation Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Sauvignon (Galilee). Violet red to the eye, 87 (Galilee). This red-violet-colored wine has a Recanati 2016 Reserve Manara Vineyard this wine offers a bouquet of fruits of the wood and nose of black cherry, raspberry and lavender. Pow- 90 Merlot (Galilee). Deep garnet in the glass,

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BUYINGGUIDE this wine features aromas of blackberry, cassis and raspberry, blueberry, white chocolate, lavender Carmel 2016 Appellation Cabernet Sauvi- oregano. It fills the mouth with flavors of raspberry, and anisette that are parlayed into a flowery finish. 89 gnon-Shiraz (Galilee). This deep garnet-col- Delicious apple, strawberry and cocoa that are set Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. ored wine has a bouquet of cherry pie with touches into a web of firm tannins. The finish has a pleas- abv: 15% Price: $99 of extra baking spice. Black currant and blueberry ing burst of espresso bean flavor. Kosher. Palm Bay flavors are most apparent on entry, followed by a International. —M.D. Galil Mountain 2015 Yiron (Galilee). For full cooling sensation and flavors of vanilla and clove. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 review see page 12. Kosher. Then enduring tannins take hold on the palate, abv: 15% Price: $35 ebbing toward a fragrant finish. Mevushal. Kosher. Barkan 2016 14 Months Barrel Aged Reserve Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 88 Merlot (Galil). This wine has aromas of Hayotzer 2016 Lyrica G-S-M (Galilee). This abv: 14.5% Price: $20 black cherry and roasted red pepper. There is a nice 91 dark ruby-colored wine has a nose of cassis interplay of subtle tannins and fruit brightness, and chocolate-covered coffee beans. It is soft on Gva’ot 2017 Vineyard Dance (Shomron). with flavors of cherry pie, black currant, butter- entry, and then bold tannins build in volume, offer- 89 This wine has a nose of black currant scotch and sage. There is a soft hint of smoke on ing a backdrop for flavors of cherry, black currant, with a whiff of green pepper. Flavors of raspberry, the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. dark chocolate, coffee and clove that culminate in a strawberry, vanilla and eucalyptus are capped off abv: 13.5% Price: $20 citrus-laced finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, by a cranberry finish, while potent tannins are well Ltd. —M.D. matched by lusty acidity. Kosher. Allied Importers, Hayotzer 2017 Vintner’s Select Merlot abv: 13.5% Price: $45 USA, Ltd. —M.D. 88 (Judean Hills). Aromas of blackberry, clove abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and espresso prepare the palate for flavors of cherry, Yatir 2014 Mt. Amasa (Judean Hills). Dark pomegranate, dark chocolate and lemon zest. This 91 violet-red to the eye, this wine has aromas Teperberg 2017 Inspire Devotage Malbec- wine is surprisingly bright on entry. After a few of fruits of the wood and smoked meat. There is an 89 Marselan (Samson). Aromas of black cur- seconds, engaging tannins fill the mouth and power excellent ratio of lusty tannins to sharp acidity, with rant and juniper berry open the scene for flavors through the long-lasting finish. Kosher. Allied flavors of cherry, strawberry, cocoa powder and rose of cassis, black plums, raspberry, orange zest and Importers, USA, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.D. petal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. violet. Tannins feel strong at first, but acidity wins abv: 13.2% Price: $12 abv: 15% Price: $45 the day, winding down into a Mediterranean herb finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. Hayotzer 2016 Genesis Merlot (Galilee). Yatir 2014 Yatir Forest (Judean Hills). This abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 This dark ruby-colored wine offers aromas 91 inky garnet-colored wine has a nose of black- of cassis, blackberry and brambles. There is a nice berry and roast fennel bulb. It has flavors of freshly Dalton 2018 Canaan (Galilee). With aromas balance of slightly gritty tannins and bold fruit, picked cherries and strawberries with touches of 88 of cranberry, apple peel and butterscotch, with flavors of raspberry, cherry, anise and orange violet and orange blossom. Potent tannins are not this violet-colored wine offers flavors of raspberry, zest. The finish is noted for a lingering sense of entirely insurmountable thanks to vibrant acidity black currant, coffee, aniseed and black pepper. brightness on the palate. Kosher. Allied Importers, that really does its job on the surprisingly bright There is a pleasing mix of fruit and spice flavors, USA, Ltd. —M.D. finish. Mevushal. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. backed by rigid tannins that start out very easygo- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 —M.D. ing and then get stronger, fading into a cherry pie abv: 15% Price: $85 finish. Mevushal. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Recanati 2018 Merlot (Galilee). Aromas of Ltd. Best Buy. —M.D. 88 cassis and raisin bread prepare the palate Carmel 2016 Carmel Limited Edition (Gali- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 for flavors of raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate 90 lee). Deep garnet to the eye, this wine has and rose petal. This wine is bright in the mouth, a bouquet of cherry blossom and fennel bulb. Fla- Recanati 2018 Yasmin Red (Galilee). This with soft tannins and a touch of orange zest on the vors of black cherry, raspberry, white chocolate and 88 wine has a bouquet of black currant and finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —M.D. baking spice are set amid muscular tannins that dark chocolate. Grippy tannins provide a backdrop abv: 13% Price: $17 start out in hiding and then slowly build in volume, for bright fruit flavors of ripe cherry, cranberry and eventually dropping off into a bright finish. Kosher. Seville orange that are joined by a note of mocha Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. on the finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International.Best RED BLENDS abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Buy. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $12 Five Stones 2016 D vs G Red (Judean Hills). Segal’s 2017 Fusion Merlot-Cabernet Franc- 93 For full review see page 8. Kosher. Editors’ 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Aromas of Shiloh Winery 2017 Privilege Wine Maker’s Choice. blackberry and juniper berry prepare the palate for 88 Red (Judean Hills). Aromas of blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $30 flavors of cassis, dark plum, mocha and anise with and jalapeño pave the way for flavors of wild ber- a hint of mint. It is juicy at first, but robust tannins ries, baking spices and eucalyptus. This wine is very Recanati 2016 Special Reserve (Galilee). make their presence known, eventually winding easy on the palate at first sip, but then brawny tan- 93 For full review see page 9. Kosher. Editors’ down to a pomegranate finish. Mevushal. Kosher. nins leap into the fray, heading into a cooling finish. Choice. Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 13.8% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Five Stones 2016 Nobility 215a (Judean Shiloh Winery 2016 Mosaic (Judean Hills). Carmel 2017 Selected Mediterranean (Shom- 92 Hills). For full review see page 10. Kosher. 90 This inky garnet-colored wine features a 87 ron). This wine proffers a bouquet of cassis, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 bouquet of cassis and mint. Spice and savory notes red plum and smoke. It is pleasing to the entire pal- outweigh fruit, but flavors of black cherry, coffee, ate, with smooth tannins and flavors of blackberry, Shiloh Winery 2016 Mosaic Exclusive Edi- chocolate and eucalyptus with an anisette finish blueberry, cinnamon, mocha and orange zest that 92 tion (Judean Hills). Deep violet in the glass, and velvety tannins combine to create a nice fla- lead into a cranberry finish. Kosher. Royal Wine this wine has aromas of black cherry and mocha. vor profile and good mouthfeel. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. It is a bit jammy at first sip, but forceful tannins Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $11 fill the mouth, providing a backdrop for flavors of abv: 15.5% Price: $65

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 dark chocolate. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. OTHER RED WINES Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Carmel 2014 Kayoumi Vineyard Shiraz (Gali- 93 lee). Black cherry to the eye, this wine prof- fers aromas of dark plums and freshly ground black pepper. It is juicy across the entire palate, with fla- vors of blackberry, cassis, aniseed and dark choco- late set amid velvety tannins that support rather than diminish rich fruit notes and an orange zest finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation.Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 15% Price: $40

Recanati 2017 Bittuni (Judean Hills). This 91 wine has a bouquet of raspberry and lav- ender. It is gentle on the palate, with very smooth tannins providing a framework for flavors of black- berry, strawberry, white chocolate and violet. The smooth finish offers a parting burst of pomegran- ate flavor. Kosher. Palm Bay International.Editors’ Choice. —M.D. abv: 12% Price: $35

Recanati 2016 Reserve Petite Sirah (Galilee). 91 Inky violet-red in color, this wine has a nose of cassis, mocha and orange zest. It offers a cool sensation on the palate amid flavors of black cherry, blueberry, butterscotch, milk chocolate and orange zest that come to a head in a minty, mouthdrying finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

Binyamina 2016 Reserve Marselan (Galilee). 89 Dark violet-red in the glass, this wine has a nose of black cherry and chocolate-covered espresso bean. There is a good interplay between acidity and tannins, with flavors of blackberry, black cherry, coffee, thyme and sage that mellow out toward the sustained finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $22

Yatir 2014 Petit Verdot (Judean Hills). Aro- 89 mas of raspberry, cinnamon and clove open the palate for flavors of cherry conserves, black- berry, dark chocolate, coffee bean and licorice. There is a good balance of fruit and spice flavors, with laid-back tannins and a spice-filled finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 15% Price: $85

Shiloh Winery 2017 Shor Barbera (Judean 88 Hills). This wine has a nose of raspberry and violet. It is bright on entry, with silky tannins and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, caramel and dark chocolate that softly fade into a drawn out finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Barkan 2017 Classic Pinot Noir (Negev). 85 Deep garnet to the eye, this wine has a bou- quet of black plums, clove and toast. There is a bit of tension on the palate with moderate acidity, taut tannins and flavors of cranberry, pomegranate and

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Magdala Orange Liqueur (Spain; Torres 92 Brandy, Armonk, NY). This honey-hued liqueur invites with a warm aroma that suggests orange peel and brandy. The palate is rich and vis- cous, with most of the flavor on the exhale. It’s not SPIRITS overtly “orange,” but finishes with a subtle orange Orange liqueurs for sipping or mixing oil note and welcome flurry of spice.Best Buy. abv: 39% Price: $25 ure, orange liqueurs are key for adding over who created orange liqueurs (was it the Mathilde Liqueur XO Orange (France; Deutsch citrusy sweetness to Margaritas, Sidecars Dutch, who lay claim to first making curaçao in 91 Family Wine & Spirits, Stamford, CT). Bur- and other cocktails. But as the category the New World, or the French, who pioneered nished gold in the glass, this liqueur has a bright has become more varied and nuanced, Old World triple sec?), I would argue that the lemon and orange peel fragrance. The first honeyed Smany are enjoyable to sip straight. French perfected­ it. sips warm all the way down, showing rich, rounded nuttiness melded with vanilla, baking spice and just In a cocktail, the role of a liqueur is to bring Indeed, most of the orange liqueurs that a subtle hint of lemon peel on the exit. Nice sweet- “proof, sweetness, and seasoning” to the drink, scored highest this month are built on a strong ener for any drink made with brown spirits. Made according to Cocktail Codex (Ten Speed Press, French brandy foundation, including La Grande by Maison Ferrand from a brandy base and sweet October 2018), a new book from Josiane’s -based orange peels. abv: 40% Price: $28 the proprietors of Death & Co. As the category ­sipper, Pierre Ferrand Dry and other high-end bars. Some Curaçao and Grand Marnier’s has become Patrón Citronge (Mexico; Bacardi Limited, are stronger, some are sweeter, new Cuvée Louis-­Alexandre, 91 New York, NY). Look for a pale straw tinge and the flavor profiles can vary more varied and of which the latter two start and a bold agave scent from the moment this orange from mild and clean (like Coin- nuanced, many are with Cognac. liqueur is poured, backed by candied citrus peel. treau) to rich and boldly spiced Many orange liqueurs are The palate opens juicy and honey-sweet, braced up enjoyable to sip with agave bite and a citric note in the finish that (like La Grande Josiane). The made with a specific ­cocktail straight. suggests lemon. While this orange liqueur seems ­flavor is rarely just straight­ in mind, so it makes sense custom-made for sweetening margaritas and other forward orange. that Patrón Citronge’s agave tequila-based drinks, the assertive agave note might Even when orange is a dominant flavor, that base might be most harmonious in a Margar- be less harmonious in drinks made with other too can fluctuate depending on what is used: ita, while a rum-based version might shine in ­spirits. abv: 35% Price: $30 bitter or sweet oranges; dried or fresh peels; a tiki drink. specific varieties like Valencia or Satsuma. To find which orange liqueur you prefer, try Fruitlab Organic Orange Liqueur (USA; Those that are suitable for straight sip- mixing it into a Sidecar. A piece of orange peel 90 Greenbar Distillery, Los Angeles, CA). Look ping often come down to the quality of base twisted over the top of the drink, then used as for a honey hue and bright, mild orange aroma. The spirit—and­ more often than not, that underly- garnish, accentuates the liqueur’s citrusy core. palate is light and easy-sipping, with hints of brown sugar and honey and nuanced orange flesh and - ing spirit is brandy. While there’s a lively debate Cheers! —Kara Newman ger on the finish. The producer says its differentia- tor is that it’s made with zest from fresh California oranges, not just dried peels. abv: 20% Price: $30

La Grande Josiane Orange Liqueur (France; vety, rounded and not overly sweet; it’s made with BroVo Orange Curaçao Liqueur (USA; BroVo 95 Biagio Cru Wines and Spirits, New Hyde Park, 82% VSOP Cognac and 18% orange liqueur. Vanilla 89 Spirits, Woodinville, WA). Overall, this is a NY). Armagnac plus orange liqueur equals a delight- leads the nose and palate, with orange oils and relatively dry and lean take on orange liqueur, with ful sipper. The rich aroma bursts with orange oil orange peel appearing mainly on the long, spiced fin- the citrus dialed way down. A mild cinnamon fra- and rich, comforting vanilla. On the palate, nuanced ish. Add a cube of ice and serve as a dessert pairing. grance is echoed on the palate, alongside vanilla, cocoa and coffee wind into a cinnamon-warmed fin- abv: 40% Price: $70 chamomile tea and cedar, with fleeting honeyed ish, plus just enough alcohol to cut the sweetness. sweetness and a spiced exit that hints at bergamot abv: 36% Price: $50 Bauchant Orange Liqueur (France; Palm Bay and dried orange peel. 92 International, Port Washington, NY). For full abv: 35% Price: $30 Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao (France; Deutsch review see page 17. Best Buy. 95 Family Wine & Spirits, Stamford, CT). abv: 40% Price: $25 Gator Bite Satsuma & Rum Liqueur (USA; Less sweet and more sprightly than most orange 89 Louisiana Spirits, Lacassine, LA). Expect a liqueurs, the aroma explodes with orange peel and bright orange hue and sweet aroma reminiscent of marmalade. The palate echoes those notes, finishing Cointreau (France; Remy Cointreau USA, New tangerines or clementines. The palate is relatively brisk and slightly bitter, tinged with ginger sparks. 92 York, NY). This familiar workhorse liqueur thin and light compared to the bold aroma, finish- Sip or mix. is clear in the glass and offers a juicy orange flesh ing with orange-pith bitterness and a hint of clove. abv: 40% Price: $30 aroma. The sweet palate has a familiar orange fla- Infused with Satsuma oranges. Best Buy. vor and finishes cleanly, with just a hint of warming abv: 30% Price: $17 Grand Marnier Cuvée Louis-Alexandre spice. A bartender favorite for mixing into cocktails. 94 (France; Gruppo Campari, New York, NY). abv: 40% Price: $40 GranGala Triple Orange Liqueur (Canada; This newcomer drinks like brandy, meaning it’s vel- 89 Sazerac, Chicago, IL). Look for a topaz hue

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 with orange highlights and candied fruit and maple welcome, but this will be of interest to those who aroma. The palate is viscous and deeply sweet, and embrace fiery flavors. WHISKEY surprises with a red fruit note. A hint of bitter- abv: 35% Price: $30 ness also plays around the edges. Made with Italian WhistlePig PiggyBack (USA; Goamericago VSOP brandy. Recommended for mixing. Best Buy. 93 Beverages, Shoreham, VT). A honey hue and abv: 40% Price: $20 OTHER LIQUEURS rich vanilla aroma mark this six-year-old rye whis- key. The palate nods to its 100% rye grain mash California Orange Liqueur (USA; Geijer Glogg, The Original Righteous Seven Liqueur (USA; bill, opening with brisk cinnamon and allspice 88 San Francisco, CA). This liqueur shows the 92 Righteous Road, St. Louis, MO). This luscious sparks that round into mellower vanilla and caramel faintest straw tinge, and offers a bright aroma that liqueur is inspired by a passage from the Kabbalah. midpalate, finishing long and spiced. Adding water mixes lemon and orange peel notes. The flavor is It has a ruby hue and warm dried-fruit aroma. The brings more vanilla to the fore and adds a toasted rounded and viscous, showing candied lemon peel palate is slightly tart, showing dried cherry, craisins grain note to the finish. plus an earthy midpalate, finishing with white pep- and lots of dried figs and dates, finishing spiced. abv: 48.2% Price: $50 per and ginger heat alongside a final whisper of Key ingredients include grapes, pomegranate, figs, lemon peel. dates—and most unusual, olives. Pour alongside Starward Nova Single Malt (Australia; Park abv: 40% Price: $37 sponge cake. 92 Street Imports, Miami, FL). For full review abv: 30% Price: $30 see page 17. Cask & Crew Orange Roasted Whiskey (USA; abv: 41% Price: $55 88 Lidestri Spirits, Rochester, NY). A blend of Heimat Cranberry Liqueur (USA; Heimat NY, Canadian rye and Kentucky corn whiskey, both aged 89 Marmaroneck, NY). Made from New York Bondi Bourbon Aged 4 Years (USA; Bondi three years, is flavored with hints of roasted orange state fruit, look for a deep garnet hue and mild dried 88 Distillery, Osakis, MN). For full review see peel. The end result is a burnished orange hue, spicy cherry aroma. The palate is startlingly tart and tan- page 17. aroma and robust palate that mingles pecan and nic, like unsweetened cranberry juice, with a con- abv: 40% Price: $38 crème brulee with a hint of burnt orange peel and centrated fruit note. Most will find this liqueur too burst of alcohol heat on the exit. Best Buy. tart to sip straight, but could be useful for adding abv: 35% Price: $25 specific, clean fruit flavor to a cocktail. abv: 16% Price: $28 / 375 ml Dogfish Head Namasec Orange Cordial (USA; 88 Dogfish Head, Milton, DE). Golden and Heimat Rhubarb Liqueur (USA; Heimat NY, bright in the glass, this liqueur exudes pleasantly 88 Marmaroneck, NY). Cloudy and rose-gold in fresh lemon-basil and lime peel aromas. The first the glass, the aroma suggests dried apricot with a sips are sweet, with a roots-and-bark note that sug- hint of spice. On the palate, look for apricot leather, gests sarsaparilla or amaro coupled with an oaky tart rhubarb and cranberry, finishing with a mildly profile. The exhale shows ginger, clove and a hints sticky peach nectar note. Made from New York state of lemongrass and lemon verbena. fruit. abv: 35% Price: $35 abv: 16% Price: $28 / 375 ml

Valencia Triple Sec (USA; Cardinal Spirits, Tug Hill Apple Pie Liqueur (USA; Tug Hill 88 Bloomington, IL). Made with a rum base, 89 Vineyards, Lowville, NY). Expect a light plus dried and fresh orange peels, “every single straw hue and bold dried apple scent accented with bottle contains the zest of three oranges,” the label cinnamon. The palate is sweet-tart and citric, with promises. That said, this clear liqueur sweetens a dried apple flavor that leans into green apple Jolly nicely, but the orange flavor is minimal, though Rancher sweetness on the finish. Feels light and there’s a pleasing candied orange aroma. The palate pleasant sipping. Made with New York state apple surprises with a hint of anise and a rush of ginger wine. heat on the finish.Best Buy. abv: 23% Price: $25 for 375 ml abv: 40% Price: $25 Tug Hill Toasted Maple Liqueur (USA; Tug Hill Boardroom Spirits Triple Sec Liqueur (USA; 86 Vineyards, Lowville, NY). Appears golden 87 Boardroom Spirits, Lansdale, PA). Look for and bright, with a slightly medicinal dried-apple a light straw hue and citrusy, pine-like notes that scent. The flavor is hard to place, suggesting coco- suggest lemon verbena. Limeade-like sweetness on nut or maple, with a buttery sweetness, lightened the palate is chased by citric lime tartness, finish- by alcohol twang on the exit. Mix into brown spirits. ing with white pepper and a nuanced lemongrass Liqueur is made from grape spirits and sweetened exhale. with local maple syrup. abv: 40% Price: $27 abv: 23% Price: $25 / 375 ml

BroVo Taco’Ma Punk Spicy Orange Aperitif California Spiced Liqueur (USA; Geijer Glogg, 87 (USA; BroVo Spirits, Woodinville, WA). An 85 San Francisco, CA). Clear in the glass, this unusual take on orange liqueur, look for a rusty liqueur has a savory aroma that suggests dried oreg- hue and mild allspice aroma. The palate is light and ano, clove and spearmint. The palate fights with opens with a woody note. Flickers of cinnamon, both peppery and minty notes, leading from mild clove and cayenne heat grow hotter with repeated crème de menthe into a heated black pepper finish. sips, finishing with lingering bitter orange. A bit abv: 40% Price: $37 more sweetness to balance the spicy bite would be

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an off-white head that shows some decent reten- tion. The hop overlay of soft, fresh pine and orange rind marries­ well to the malt-driven core of graham cracker, toasted grain and a touch of nuttiness. The body is just shy of medium in weight, though BEER the malty core and dank herbal tones lend a richer Pitch-perfect pale ales impression than the alcohol and mouthfeel sug- gests. Overall, it’s a well-balanced and highly ses- sionable pour. ale ales are kind of in the midst of an of varying intensity. They vividly express­ the abv: 4.4% Price: $10/16 oz 4 pack indentity crisis. To be fair, it’s an easy hops that are used, often identifying—and style to misunderstand. To start, the therefore celebrating—the varieties used Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. Fig Mtn style’s name doesn’t exactly speak vol- on the labels. Sometimes, they even aim to 88 Mosaic Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Figueroa Pumes as to what the beer’s about. Typically, express the overall profile of one specific­ Mountain Brewing Co., CA). This clear, golden-amber beer pours with a frothy white head that shows if you hear the word “pale,” one immediately hop variety, like the new Shop Series from good staying power and leaves decent lacing behind thinks of something lacking in color, dull, Connecticut-­based Two Roads Brewing. once it does fall. It leads with assertive notes of cit- faded or washed out. So then, A technique that’s be- rus peels and oils, coupled with notes of ripe topical why wouldn’t people immedi- come increasingly popular fruits and yellow peach. The surprisingly light and ately assume that a pale ale is While there’s quite for American pale ales is dry-­ easy-drinking palate offers more of the same, with moderate carbonation and a final hit of pithy melon a light, soft and easy-drinking hopping, a process in which a bit of stylistic rind on the close. It’s a sessionable, summer-ready selection, with little intensity, variety, pale ales hops are added, usually in sec- selection that will do well for warm-weather enjoy- complexity or character? But should not be ondary fermentation, to pro- ment day or night. actually, the truth is fairly far duce a greater aroma and fresh abv: 5.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack from that. relegated to boring, or uncooked hop flavor to the Heavy Seas Ameri Cannon Double Dry- While it’s true that there’s light, mindless pours beer’s profile. Since the hops 88 Hopped American Pale Ale (American Pale quite a bit of stylistic variety of minimal depth. aren’t boiled, the oils aren’t Ale; Heavy Seas Beer, MD). Despite the fact that this within the category, pale ales extracted from the flowers, beer is double-dry hopped with Centennial hops should not be relgated to bor- meaning the process doesn’t and Simcoe lupulin powder, this isn’t some IPA ing, light, mindless pours of minimal depth. impart additional bitter­ness but only pure hop imposter. Sure, it’s hoppy upfront, with pronounced aromas of citrus peels, pine resin and bitter grape- Pale ales cover a wide spectrum of colors, flavors and aromas. fruit, but those notes are balanced by a smooth, ranging from light gold to medium copper and The key to successful pale ales, however, malt-forward palate that lends some roundness and all shades in between. And while they may not is that they are balanced by a proportionate ­ sweetness to the bitter package. There’s also enough have the over-the-top character of their India amount of malt to counter any overly pro- carbonation to keep the slick, sticky sensation from pale ale brethren, pale ales are by no means nounced hoppiness. They should exhibit a becoming too dominant, ultimately lending nice balance and refreshment through the finish. lacking in flavor or distinction. hop character, but never be completely over- abv: 5.75% Price: $13/12 oz 6 pack American pale ales typically have prominent whelmed by them, especially on the palate. fruity, floral and/or citrusy hop characteristics ­ Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Springdale by Jack’s Abby Brewing Sup- 88 porter Scarf Hoppy Pale Ale (American Pale Ale; Jack’s Abby Brewing, LLC, MA). Light gold in color, this easy-drinking and summer-ready brew is Maine Beer Company Peeper (American Pale Pale Ale; Two Roads Brewing Co., CT). This is a fun, a collaboration with the Midnight Riders, a social 92 Ale; Maine Beer Company, ME). Anyone who new rotating hop series from Two Roads, where the and charitable organization that supports the New asserts that pale ales are plain or boring needs to base beer will remain consistent but the hop variet- England Revolution soccer team, with proceeds pick up this bottle from Maine Beer Company. The ies showcased will vary every couple of months or supporting the initiatives of Soccer Without Bor- brewery’s original release recipe, Peeper is a clas- so. This release, featuring Centennial and Chinook ders. It’s dry hopped with Citra and Comet hops, sic, well-balanced and layered pale ale brewed with hops, is wonderfully balanced, offering upfront cit- and leads with scents of grassy hops, lemon ver- Amarillo, Cascade and Centennial hops. A bright rus rind and fresh pine on the nose, with a hint of bena and lemon-chamomile tea. Those notes carry golden-yellow color in the glass, with a slight haze orange blossom and sweet grass in the background. through to the lightweight and lightly spicy palate, and a pillowy white head that shows excellent The palate is grounded by ample caramel malt fla- where a core of fresh cracked wheat helps to sup- retention, the bouquet leads with enticing aromas vors, with lingering notes of pineapple rind and port the grassy overtones and pithy bitterness. of grapefruit peel, fresh-cut grass and lemon basil. orange pith. It’s exclusively available in Two Roads’ abv: 4.5% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack The medium-weight palate offers more notes of Hoppy Beer Bus Variety Pack or at the brewery as pithy grapefruit, lemon and strawberry hull at first, single cans or six packs. but then veers into a grainy sweetness that fleshes abv: 5.5% Price: $14/12 oz 12 pack out the feel and lends some support to the final dry, bitter impression. Sketchbook No Parking Citra Pale Ale (Amer- abv: 5.5% Price: $10/500 ml 89 ican Pale Ale; Sketchbook Brewing Company, IL). Brewed with five different malts and Citra Two Roads Shop Series Specialty Hop Series hops, this is a well-balanced and easy-drinking 90 Centennial & Chinook Pale Ale (American pour. It pours a slightly hazy dark-gold color with

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019