Buyingguide September2019
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BUYINGGUIDE SEPTEMBER2019 THIS MONTH 2 WASHINGTON 25 CALIFORNIA 53 NEW YORK 57 CHILE 60 NEW ZEALAND 63 SPAIN 66 BORDEAUX 72 NORTHERN RHÔNE 78 SOUTHERN FRANCE 79 PIEDMONT 82 NORTHEAST ITALY 85 CENTRAL ITALY 88 AUSTRIA 98 GREECE 99 ISRAEL 104 SPIRITS 106 BEER Harvest season in Red Mountain, Washington FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS RICHARD DUVAL /DANITADELIMONT/ALAMY RICHARD DUVAL WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE exquisitely balanced fruit and savory flavors fol- low, bringing a sense of deftness. A 60-plus-second, intensely flavorful, flower- and smoked meat-filled finish cap it off. This is all about expression and elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. WASHINGTON abv: 13.8% Price: $80 Vintage report Saviah 2016 The Stones Speak Estate Funk Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The he 2016 growing season was unusual for Even in some higher-tier wines, these char- 94 aromas jump out of the glass, with notes of pot- Washington State. As in recent years, it acteristics can occasionally be found, along with pourri, orange rind, cracked pepper, charcuterie was quite warm, and by late August, the less midpalate density than the norm. Simply plate, plum and ember. Lithe, sultry, intensely fla- state was ahead of the previous year’s his- put, producers who were not well on top of what vorful, sophisticated fruit and savory notes follow. Ttoric heat accumulation. was happening in the vineyard in 2016 paid a The finish seems endless. It’s a complete stunner. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. A perfect storm of growing conditions led price in quality. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 to larger berries and clusters in some variet- For those who were diligent—and there is ies. The harvest came in as much a great abundance of exam- Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 In the Rocks Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah as 30% above expected num- ples—the results are sublime. 93 bers, even after extensive thin- Producers who Some wines from 2016 are as (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas offer lively notes of freshly peeled orange, potpourri, black pepper, ning. Hanging larger amounts good as or better than any I’ve were not well on fresh flower, wet stone and smoked meat. It coats of fruit is not necessarily a bad top of what was had from the region and often the palate from end to end, bringing a sense of thing, especially in a warm vin- happening in the promise profound aging poten- freshness and subtlety, with a persistent, plum- and tage, but then 2016 took a turn. tial, with late ripening varieties smoked meat-filled finish. It shows a lot of grace Conditions from mid-September vineyard in 2016 in particular excelling. The top and depth, with a finish that will not quit.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. until the end of harvest cooled wines have a compelling display paid a price in abv: 13.5% Price: $90 down considerably, and there quality. of ripe fruit due to the heat of was intermittent rain—a rarity summer along with cool vintage Saviah 2016 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine is a blend of fruit from Watermill, in ever-dry eastern Washington. elegance and freshness from the 93 The results of these factors can be tasted below average fall temperatures. Bottom line, Funk, Lewis and Anna Marie vineyards. The aro- mas intrigue, with notes of ember, ash, black olive, throughout the wines with mixed outcomes. it’s a good year to be choosy, but the rewards are herbs, black raspberry and barrel spice. A smooth, At the entry level, growers typically push the there for the taking. sophisticated, flavorful palate follows along with tons per acre as high as the vintage will support. Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll a hyperextended finish seldom seen in a wine at However, from this vintage, a number of these find reviews from California, New York, Austria this price. If you want to see what Walla Walla Val- wines are lacking in ripeness and concentration and beyond. Find thousands more reviews at ley Syrah is all about, it’s hard to imagine a better introduction. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. due to the cooler temperatures in the fall. winemag.com/ratings —Sean P. Sullivan abv: 14.7% Price: $32 Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 The Con- tender Estate In the Rocks Vineyard Syrah 92 (Walla Walla Valley). Ecstatic aromas of firepit, SYRAH filled, warm finish caps it off, kicking it up a notch. flower, ember, dried tobacco, roasted coffee bean, Give it time to open up. —S.S. smoked meat and earth lead to lighter-styled, Saviah 2016 The Funk Estate Funk Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $NA focused fruit and savory flavors. It brings a mouth- Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Coming from watering palate that delights. The flavors carry on 95 winemaker Richard Funk, the aromas are arresting, Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 Foothills the long finish. —S.S. with notes of potpourri, firepit, Stargazer lily, pro- Reserve Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard abv: 13.2% Price: $90 94 sciutto, funk (no kidding), green and black olive and Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The funk is at the fore blue fruit. Soft, pillowy fruit and savory flavors fol- on this wine out of the gate, followed by vineyard MTR Productions 2013 Memory Found Syrah low, bringing an enchanting sense of lightness and signature notes of freshly ground black pepper (Walla Walla Valley). This wine spent three 91 intensity that lead to a hyperextended finish that along with sea salt, seaweed and tilled earth. A deft, years in barrel (new and neutral puncheon and bar- carries off into the distance. It’s an accomplish- flavorful palate follows leading into a long show- rique) and an additional three years in bottle. Aro- ment. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. stopping finish filled with rich notes of citrus and mas of dried tobacco, firepit, olive and herbs lead to abv: 14.6% Price: $60 smoke. —S.S. lighter-styled, juicy fruit flavors. It brings a lovely abv: 13.5% Price: $85 sense of elegance. Smoked meat flavors linger on Delmas 2017 SJR Vineyard Syrah (Walla the finish. It shows a bit more age than might be Walla Valley). SJR Vineyard is proving itself Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2016 In the Hills expected. —S.S. 94 to be a singular site. This is just another example. Estate Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Syrah abv: 13.1% Price: $90 94 Blue fruit, herb and coffee notes are at the fore, (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas draw you into the followed by notes of herb, flower and spice. Broad, glass, with notes of orange peel, funk, potpourri, palate-coating blue fruit and coffee flavors follow. white flower, herbs, black pepper and butcher shop, An insanely long, seemingly endless savory, coffee- showing delineation and detail. Light on their feet, Continued on page 17 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2019 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Schramsberg 2010 J. Schram (North Coast). Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim This dry and beautifully aged bubbly is Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors 97 Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. Benovia 2016 Tilton Hill Pinot Noir (Sonoma made from 84% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Noir. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s Coast). This comes from the producer’s Rich gold in color, it opens with fascinating and initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- 98 lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more coolest estate near the town of Freestone. White well-developed aromas of toasted baguette, toasted reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all pepper jumps from the glass alongside accents of walnuts and marzipan, followed by a warm, buttery tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. lavender, rose and spice. Compelling in every way, it flavor that’s backed by baked apple and cinnamon. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its offers juicy raspberry fruit that’s focused, pure and The fine-beaded texture is luxurious and the fin- suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us undeniably delicious. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. ish is long and lingering. Best through 2024. Cellar by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 14.2% Price: $60 Selection. —J.G. are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 12.4% Price: $120 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.