Automotive Traveler 102 70 44 108 84 60 Trip Vacationtrip Germany, in Czech the Austria, and Republic

AUTOMOTIVE

October 2007 ISSUE No.4 MotorMotor CityCity MadnessMadness CruisingCruising Detroit'sDetroit's WoodwardWoodward Volkswagen Touareg+ AvenueAvenue Lisbon to Dakar the Hard Way Chevrolet HHR+ Visiting the du Pont's Brandywine Valley Mazda CX-9+ Route 66, Los Angeles to Tulsa, and a special '57 Plymouth BMW 550i+ Germany, Austria, and Czech Republic, One Family's Euro Delivery Adventure this month’s features in Automotive Traveler 102 70 44 108 84 60 trip vacationtrip Germany, in Czech the Austria, and Republic. ain’t no small potatoes! Mark Elias 2 avoids testing Outlook’s the lava-avoidance capabilities. Steve Statham travels aNew of Mexico to heart the volcano but 2 Belvedere ago. buried ahalf-century toCalifornia Tulsa for reveal to the hand be on a1957 of Plymouth Brett Stierli T like to to drive Dakar? how’d you like to over drive miles 14 in 4000 days? How would you D D Delawareand aretro-looking in Chevrolet HHR. Valley Scenic across Pennsylvania Brandywine the a tour of Byway Vera Marie Exploring the du Ponts’ Place in the Country Deb BMW Euro Delivery Vacation o you enjoy Author/photographer driving? ulsa Bound 008 Mercedes-Benz ML550 007 Saturn Outlook akar – Destination, Journey, or Just a Race? i Lander cruises thro Badertscher , with three tow, in best buddies treks from Southern ’s BMW road a2008 of purchase afamily 550i funds ugh North-Central Idaho to discover this SUV explores the legacy of the du Ponts with Ponts du the of explores legacy the

John Rettie John asks, European

DeliveryDebi Lander’s purchase of a 2008 BMW 550i funds a family road trip vacation in Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic.

Morning mist over Hallstatt, Austria. “Want a new BMW?” my husband Jay asked. Who wouldn’t? “Of course,” I replied. Then he revealed the catch: “Mind if we go to Germany to pick it up?” “Mind?” I replied, immediately imag- it to the factory, and then let BMW savings on to the tion funds, and saved airfare Laura, our teen daughter, joined ining castles and cathedrals, Bavar- ship the car to the United States. customer. by redeeming our frequent Jay and me on this trip. We figured ian villages, and Rhine wine. Jay’s This process is called taking Europe- In our case, flyer miles. No rental she’d learn hands-on history, experi- thoughts zoomed to powerful, fast an delivery, and each weekday, ap- we applied car or train tickets ence cultural differences, and spend cars, the Autobahn…and beer. proximately eight to ten Americans the seven were needed. time with us, a rarity these days. (Surely our interests overlap some- scoot away from the factory behind percent where?) the wheel of their brand-new Bim- price mer. Many European manufacturers deduc- Plans proceeded to purchase a offer such a delivery option. tion to 2008 BMW 550i, take possession family of it in Munich, drive it around Vehicles accepted abroad enter the vaca- for two weeks, States as used cars, with a reduced return tax rate. Hence, the automakers can pass the ornate, post-war reconstruct- ready! Although I am not much of ed buildings in the Marien- a beer drinker, when in Munich…I platz. The town hall clock ordered a stein. The stout waitress features a famous Glocken- clasped all our mugs in one hand, spiel that comes alive every although I was barely able to raise day at 5 p.m. with little my one-liter glass vessel. Mom and dancing figures that re-en- Dad permitted Laura to try a act festivities from a 16th- Radler – a light beer Century royal Bavarian mixed with lemonade, wedding. since the drinking age in Germany is 16. Tasty din- ners of escalope and spatzle cost about the same as drinks – six euro. Perhaps the deflated Our arrival in Munich dollar situa- We anticipated high tion wasn’t prices; Germany and so bad? Austria have prosper- ous economies and Our guide pointed to the the dollar is down. subway, sending us back Much of that results from industrious work- to our hotel. First mistake – we rode in the wrong direction – and ended ers and the auto man- We joined up hiring a taxi (a BMW no less), to ufacturers: Audi, BMW, a guide for a walking tour, chauffeur us home. Mercedes, Porsche, who led us throug churches explod- and Volkswagen. But, ing with gilded baroque flair and an I scoured the Internet open-air market selling pretzels the Auto Delivery at the Factory looking for hotel dis- size of large pizzas. We meandered We arrived at the BMW factory just counts and we did our toward the Royal Residenz and the outside the city, as excited a ker- best; BMW even ar- square where Hitler paraded his nels of corn ready to pop. Almost ranged bargain-priced troops. instantly we were seated in our 2008 rooms at The King’s metallic-silver ultimate driving ma- Hotel in Munich. But, the Hofbrauhaus – an immense chine. Sebastian, our rep, taught us beer-garden restaurant imbibed with to operate all parts: side mirrors that Shortly after our arrival, frivolity, oompah music, and plenty fold in, “great for tight spots,” he we darted off to see of brew – beckoned. And we were said; recharging outlets in the back- Munich, Bavaria’s Capital, is home to the famed Glockenspiel and Hoffbrauhaus. Crowds gather to watch the clock tower figures come alive twice daily and party in the beer garden. Insert- Jay, Debi, and Laura raise a toast. your rear-view mirror, because cars traveling 120 mph appear on your tail in seconds.”

“Got it,” I answered, free to ogle at velvety alpine hills, like pictures from the childhood classic “Heidi.” A-framed wood and stucco homes studded the rocky fields, each one sporting flower boxes bursting in bloom. downtown to retrieve our luggage. After fitting all our We named the voice of our bags into the cavernous GPS system “Moneypenny,” trunk, we were poised and mimicked her proper Brit for a two-hour autobahn pronunciation and straight-to- adventure. the-point advice, “take the next exit, then turn right at the first Just beyond Munich, Jay intersection.” surged onto the super- highway, thrilled with the My 007 spouse barreled down tremendous thrust from the A8 and in a flash, edged into the V-8, 360-horsepower Salzburg. Rounding a hairpin turn so engine. He was like a young tight drivers have to stop and back boy unfolding pages in a up; he spun up the mountain to forbidden Playboy magazine; Schloss Mönchstein, a regal hotel. the sexy car more than Stunning 2008 BMW 550i stands ready for European Delivery at the factory near Munich. The proud Lander family takes possession of satisfying his dreams. Our top-floor room overlooked the their German auto at the start of a two-week driving escapade covering 1,900 miles. peacefully cradled city, crowded with He raved that the vehicle hugged so many church steeples that Laura seat (designed with techno-teens in became our omniscient observer. trip. After he input the address into the road, the steering was and I lost count. At 7 p.m. we heard mind); adaptive brake lights, to the navigation system, license M responsive, and POW—had quick bells, lots of bells in various octaves; reduce the risk of bumper-to-bum- Sebastian warned, “don’t take 3714 Z officially entered the freeway. acceleration. He rambled on about some played delicate melodies, per collisions; infrared night vision; the rpm over 4,500 and stop by the autobahn being pure joy and others clanged or gonged. Julie and a concert hall sound system. He the drop-off location to complete Jay skillfully maneuvered through Europeans driving with serious Andrews was right – the hills of gave special instruction on the GPS paperwork.” This method eliminates congested traffic like a seasoned intent. Then, my husband began Salzburg truly are alive with music. navigation system, which soon shipping concerns at the end of a local driver, eventually returning lecturing, “you’ve got to watch Heavenly music. Next day, we made shelves, at the determined to master the crucial Further along, roads narrowed, quick study of the rate of a hundred navigation device. but were still smooth as a historic old town and million per year. No skateboarders’ dream. Guards Amadeus’ birthplace. wonder: The candy Meanwhile, Laura and I cavorted welcomed us into the former Soviet- Acting as typical melts in your at trick water fountains, naturally ruled Czech Republic, although tourists, we bought mouth, created by getting soaked. She proclaimed the armed with attack weaponry. Mozartkugen (nougat- divine inspiration, site, “cool,” literally and figuratively. covered chocolate like the maestro’s Beyond the checkpoint, streets balls) from a tiny shop, compositions. Day Three: Bears in the Czech Republic grew aged, a bit pot-holed, and Café Konditorei Fürst, We cruised along seemingly fresh- obviously not maintained by which claimed to be the Mistake number paved, Austrian highways until the European Union funds. Passing originator. two: In the tank neared empty. I told myself bucolic fields, dense woods, and Other afternoon, we not to worry about the price; petrol sparsely populated regions, we confectioners followed the has always been expensive in were totally dependent on magical mass produce hotel clerk’s Europe. Still, I was flabbergasted Moneypenny, as we couldn’t Mozartsweets, “easy” instructions by the $100 charge. If the gas tank decipher the Czech language. bouncing them to nearby Helbrunn Palace, and holds 18.5 gallons, that’s $5.50 per I sighed with relief when she off souvenir got lost. Jay remained in the car gallon. Guess Miss Moneypenny announced, “you have arrived at and studied the owner’s manual, just became the Cashqueen. your destination.” insert - Creating a Mozartkugen- Austria’s chocolate ball treats. Below - The Salzach River flows through Salzburg. Austria’s Lake Region, the Salzkammergut, offers high alpine views from the entrance of ice caves. Seen in the far distance, the tiny town of Halstatt borders the crystal clear lake. Favorite pastimes are hiking, fishing, water sports, and winter skiing. The Vltava River encir- three short rapids. cles Cesky Krumlov, a Mother and daugh- UNESCO World Heri- ter shopped their tage site. The town is way back through sadly fraying, like an the narrow pas- over-stuffed cushion sageways, now bursting at the seams, cleared of numer- from a deluge of visi- ous day-trippers. tors. Cars are not permitted, so we dragged Venturing to Vienna our bags over cobble- Next morning we stone streets to the split for a three- hotel. (Okay, I should hour journey to have packed lighter.) Vienna, cruising The clerk instructed us at 90-100 mph to follow a map, with most of the way. about 15 turns, to a Honestly we just parking garage on the blended into the outskirts of town; mis- flow of traffic. Jay take three. devoured this drive and the Bimmer Unfortunately, Miss M added plenty of did not recognize this bite. Somehow the area (mistake 4) and sizzle of the auto- the poorly marked dia- bahn started awak- gram didn’t warn of a ening my senses. detour (mistake 5). We spent the next hour in husband and wife verbal ping-pong (mis- takes 6-16) trying to locate the obscure lot, then trampled back to our lodgings—only to find we overnighted the BMW in the Cesky Krumlov: The Barber’s Bridge crosses the surrounding Vltava River in the red-roofed village of narrow streets. Insert: Top of the Castle wrong place! (Time to stop counting.) two brown bears lived; the bears in Italian, so they began keeping the colors and clamshells he included provide alternate protection to a real deal. in his masterpiece, “Birth of Venus.” Jiri, a private guide waiting in the water-filled moat, and symbolize a We peered down on a walled vil- lobby, sorted out the mess. Jay link with royalty. It seems the castle Jiri, Laura, and I climbed 162 stairs lage, crammed with red-roof-topped moved the car, while Laura and I owners added a bear motif to the in the town’s signature landmark, dwellings and many small bridges. strolled through a maze of medieval coat of arms to flaunt their relation- the decoratively pastel painted townhouses. Then we crossed a ship to the “Orsini” line – a noble tower. The tall cylinder looks as if Finally, we slipped onto a river raft, castle drawbridge over a pit where Italian family. “Orsa” means she-bear Boticelli frescoed it using the same sight-seeing while also shooting The Castle of Cesky Krumlov. Could I be acquiring a taste for turn off the DVD and speed? My fears were further abated look outside!” because we encountered no acci- dents, not even a fender-bender. We finally pulled into tiny Halstatt, popula- We spent two days and nights waltz- tion 500. The pedes- ing through the stylish capital city, trian-only hamlet is dropping a lot of cash in the process. literally chiseled into Seated in the posh Sacher Hotel, I re- the mountainside, minded Laura of the handy BMW eti- bordering a crystal- quette rule. When in doubt about table line lake. There was placement, just remember the letters no elevator, so we of our car: BMW= B-bread on the left, trudged up four sto- M-meal in the middle, W-water on ries (yes, I brought the right. We sipped champagne and too many clothes) to applauded Austria’s decadent choco- our rustic room with late cake, Sachertorte, with schlag balcony, everything – an American super-sized dollop of crafted from pine. whipped cream. Cost: 60 euro. Thankfully, our million-dollar view cost a A performance of the dancing Lipiz- lot less. zaner stallions nibbled away almost $300. We didn’t keep track of what Salt Mines we spent feasting on Wienerschnitzel Day six. We footed to and indulging in an evening Mozart a funicular that zips concert at the luxurious Golden Hall. visitors to a landing Pricey, but sheer genius. above town, then hiked uphill to the salt Our boutique hotel manager strongly mine entrance, feel- recommended a taxi and early ar- ing like three dwarfs rival at the immense and ostentatious hi-ho-ing off to work. Schonbrunn Palace, this region’s Tourists donned version of Versailles. Sage advice. He miner’s jumpsuits also warned us: “Subway riders must UNESCO World Heritage Site: The historic architecture and castle of picturesque Cesky Krumlov, in the Czech Republic, lies protected for and plodded through claustropho- beware. Vienna’s number one tourist future generations. The Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral stands in the right rear of the photograph. bic frosty burrows, similar to cata- destination attracts pick-pocketers, combs, while learning about salt. dressed as camera-toting tourists.” He Hunderwasser’s modern architecture, Up the Alps and Down the Lakes of scenery, which included tower- Everyone had fun whooshing down also added that the thieves were not reminiscent of Barcelona’s Gaudi, and Keeping to schedule, we whizzed ing rock walls, dark tunnels through slides in the mine. nationals. craned our necks at soaring St. Ste- down the road to Salzkammergut, snow-capped mountains, no pass- phen’s Cathedral. Hotel, tour guide, considered the most beautiful re- ing zones, huge azure lakes, and More punishing stair climbing was Back downtown, our eyes popped at entry fees, cab fare, and tips: mehr gion of Austria. Once we exited the miniature settlements that looked necessary to explore the dramatic the dazzling Hapsburg jewels. geld. Memories: priceless. main highway, we crept along, not like model railroad displays. I loudly altarpiece in the town’s gothic Cath- We lost our equilibrium exploring Viva Vienna. prepared for the dramatic change reprimanded my daughter, “Laura, olic Church. Our effort also achieved a majestic view of wispy clouds lying outside the stadium. Loca- declared insane. lacing across voluptuous mountains, tion, location, location. His palace is whose edges slash down into the perched atop a blueberry colored sea. Our taxi was another Mercedes, wooded, treach- but not a top-of-the-line model. erous ledge in Next to the church, I entered the Automakers must offer fleet deals rural Bavaria. eerie Charnel House or Bone Cha- to cabbies, as most are either Visitors, in- pel; a room crammed with skulls Mercedes or BMWs. So nice to cluding those and bones of former residents, like a ride in style. enormous tour scene from a horror flick. The city of buses, squeeze Hallstatt simply lacks grave space, up and down so after ten years, caretakers dig up Dreams Come True at Fairy Tale bottlenecked the dead, paint the skulls, and place Neuschwanstein roads, across them in the sanctuary. I’ve always dreamed of visiting roller-coaster Schloss Neuschwanstein, also peaks and a val- Ski Jumping in Innsbruck known as Mad King Ludwig’s ley, before the Awakening to low-lying clouds and castle. Ludwig II, King of Bavaria fantasy magi- a downpour, we chose to forgo cally materializes the high alpine road, or scenic out of the trees. route to Innsbruck. The famous Even Walt Dis- Grossglockner drive switchbacks ney relished the across the teetering Alps and of- glamorous gem, fers, what guidebooks call “pan- using inspiration oramic glacier views.” I’d been from its fairy tale warned to update my will before turrets to create driving it. his theme park castles. Our decision left time run through the Altstadt (or, “old part Small insert: Happily, we avoided an endless line of town”) and the Hofkirche, the Painted skulls in the Bone Chapel. by pre-ordering tickets online. Once awe-inspiring Imperial Church, inside, the 40-minute tour runs filled with larger than life-sized Bottom of page: A summer skier practices with German precision, through bronze figures, surrounding Em- on Innsbruck’s Olympic ski jump. lavish rooms of arduously carved peror Maximillian’s empty tomb. wood paneling. Eccentric Ludwig Top Right: Larger-than-life bronze figures II drowned in shallow Swan Lake, Then we hailed a taxi to Inns- of Innsbruck’s Imperial Church have below the fortress, after only living bruck’s impressive Olympic ski incredible detail. in the creation 172 days. Some say jump. From the top platform we he was murdered. Hmm? watched courageous athletes careening off the edge; after from 1864-1886, shunned the pub- soaring through the air, they lic and politics, choosing instead to landed on Astroturf, their view build elaborate castles. He nearly facing straight into a cemetery bankrupted his domain, and was Neuschwanstein Castle, Germany’s top tourist attraction, is the spectacular fairy-tale fortress built by Bavarian (Mad) King Ludwig II. An uphill hike to Mary’s Bridge, another engineering feat, gives visitors this panoramic view. My Turn Finally, it was my turn to drive! A four-hour escapade through southern Germany brought new landscape perspectives, including mile upon mile of the sunny, yel- low-green vineyards, which fos- ter the region’s wunderbar wines. Passing on two-lane roads proved tricky, with so many blind spots, swerves, and tight-angle turns. The 550i performed to perfection; but I questioned my own driving skills. Jay’s frustration grew as I withdrew; I was hesitant to pull out and around others. Before long he snatched back the wheel and wrangled his way behind a fire-red Lamborghini and Porsche 911. When congested traffic hit a straightaway, all three gunned their engines. We zoomed around slower vehicles – until the trio queued up, again, and again.

Deep in the Black Forest Arriving in Freiburg, driver Jay insist- ed, “No more hotels in these cursed

German Clock Museum, at Furtwangen, deep in the Black Forest, features cuckoo clocks to delight both eyes and ears. Insert: Our BMW at Hirschhorn Castle. no-car zones.” (But I liked being in the middle of things!) A marvelous medieval gothic cathedral dominat- Next day, we headed for the heart of streets, then single alleys without tion workers claimed the area was ed the skyline, miraculously upright the evergreen Black Forest and the shoulders, down to a narrow strip closed. GPS showed it as the only and unharmed after WWII, unlike 80 cuckoo clock museum. Roadways of asphalt, without any markings. viable route – unless we considered percent of the town. dwindled from four- to two-lane Abruptly we stopped. Construc a lengthy detour. Chasing a Smart Car tor, showed us how cuckoos sing While we were turning around, thanks to small bellows and intri- a tiny smart car pulled in, with cately carved clock cases. a young man behind the wheel. “Road’s closed,” I told him. But he Though we were running late, Laura countered, “Not really. Just follow and I refused to miss the region’s me.” Holding our breath, we barely specialty – Black Forest cake. The inched past heavy machinery, finally delicious concoction smacked of appreciating the ingenuity of side kirsch – a cherry liqueur – but gave mirrors that fold inward. us energy to continue on our journey.

Clearing the work zone, his compact car revved into high gear, jetting around banked curves. I joked that the smart car was blowing away our Bimmer.

“Never,” my husband replied and floored it.

When we arrived at our destination, we parked and thanked Floe, our new friend, who admit- ted he had never visited the museum before. Then he joined us, Above - Smart car owner, Floe, helped guide us through treacherous territory. Even non-car buffs can easily di- gleefully snapping pho- In Stuttgart, the Mercedes Benz Museum displays vintage and futuristic gest the history lesson. Important tos with his cell phone! events – especially the World Prost (cheers) to Ger- cars. Car buffs should plan an entire day at this amazing facility. Wars and development of the man hospitality. Daimler-Benz company – are depicted through large photos The museum displays the history Mercedes Museum with minimal labeling. Each area of timekeeping, including collec- We surged to Stuttgart, home of au- tors to the showcases plenty of prized tions of astronomical devices, or- tomakers and traffic jams dominated top floor, then antique cars and vintage nate mantelpieces, pendulums and by the luxury brands. The Mer- wind their way movies. Our favorite was the pocket-watches, and some enter- cedes-Benz Museum is jaw-drop- down nine 1957 300SL gullwing, whose taining mechanical gadgets like the ping gorgeous, its rounded sleek floors, through doors open upward like a dumpling-eater, who gulped down glass and metal structure forming a 120 years of au- bird taking flight. the right number of biscuits on the crystal monument to German engi- tomotive legacy. The center’s lower arena displays hour. Eve Renz, the charming direc- neering. Visitors ride pod-like eleva- fanciful futuristic models and an Back Home After two weeks we were bursting Our family road trip through Germa- with bratwurst, a bit cranky, and ny, Austria, and the Czech Republic ready to return home. Indeed, I was soared to the top of the Alps and enthralled by castles and cathedrals, descended below the earth’s sur- Bavarian villages and Rhine wine, face to salt mines and ice caves. We but I also grew to enjoy fast cars, rediscovered each other during time the incredible highways, and even a spent together – 1900 miles in the little beer. car and all those meals. (No wonder we were cranky by the time we Jay, ecstatic with the freedom on finally departed.) non-restricted speed, ended his vacation We felt priv- leged to drive alongside Europeans, who skillfully weave through traffic on their excellent roadways. Our re- Above - A Knight’s View: The Neckar River swerves in storybook fashion below the fortress built by the Knights of Hirschhorn. lation- Right: Laura and Debi enjoy the terrace of the castle hotel, overlooking busy locks. ship with extensive (and expensive) gift shop. Over the river and through the woods mit that the city’s light beer, kolosh, Bavarian The impressive 1.5 million-Euro By evening, we conquered tastes great. Motor Works is stron- facility encompasses 16,500 square Hirschhorn castle hotel, a fortress ger than ever and why shouldn’t it meters, and definitely lives up to above the Neckar River. Like roy- Laura and I concluded on a sugar be? The process was seamless and Mercedes’ elite standards. alty, we supped scrumptious sea- high exploring Schokoladenmu- the magnificent 550i was even bet- food, drank golden wine, and slept seum, a chocolate museum. Just with a surge of testosterone – un- ter than we expected. On the other hand, the Porsche like kings. Then our carriage was breathing the air outside the build- leashing the car’s muscle and au- Museum, six miles away, was disap- off for a final day of touring in Co- ing started my mouth to watering. tobahning back to Munich. Me, I’m Memories come from interacting pointing. The current offering con- logne, my biggest disappointment. I chuckled as a worker frantically just looking forward to driving my with people, places, and the culture, tains only 15 cars and one video The immense cathedral, so tall and bagged wrapped sweets on the BMW in the United States, all by and this vacation transcended our presentation. Across the street, an wide it couldn’t fit into my camera assembly line, much like the familiar myself. expectations. We can’t wait until we astounding, aerodynamic-looking lens, just can’t compare to elegant “I Love Lucy” candy episode. The need another new car – for the per- replacement will open in 2008. Notre Dame and her imaginative cafe’s mocha chocolate cake, truffe- fect excuse to return to Germany. gargoyles. However, I have to ad- ly rich, received our highest honors. Interested In Your Own European Delivery?

Taking ownership of a vehicle abroad permits its entry into delivery takes place. BMWs are produced and delivered When we arrived at the Munich factory on the scheduled We drove to the Munich drop-off location and filled out the United States as a used car and at a reduced tax rate. in Munich, Mercedes and Porsche are in Stuttgart, and date, the process couldn’t have been easier. We gave a few shipping documents in advance. This step can Hence, the auto manufacturers pass the savings on to the Audi is in Ingolstadt. Swedish-made Volvos are delivered BMW staff a copy of the purchase agreement, along also take place at the end of your trip. BMW offers 21 customer. BMW discounts their price by seven percent. in Gothenburg and Saabs are delivered in Trollhättan, with our passports for identification and our international different drop-off locations throughout Europe. Be sure The process saves the cost of renting a car, or purchasing Sweden. driver’s license. Within a half hour, we were sitting in our to note these options when planning your itinerary. other modes of transportation within Europe. new car, reviewing its operation with a factory We made our own flight arrangements, using frequent representative. At the vacation’s end, a shipping agent checked the The hometown dealer handles the purchase like any new flyer miles to save even more money. The manufacturer condition of the vehicle, noting any problems and re- car; customers agree to the price or lease agreements supplied a packet of extremely helpful information, in- A special tourist license plate was put on the car (which corded the mileage. Then the car was placed on a boat, and choose the model, options, and date of delivery. Then cluding the name of a reservation service in New York to we brought home as a souvenir) and 15 days of zero- at no additional cost, and arrived locally, just like a new the dealer submits preliminary paperwork to the factory. obtain discounted hotel rooms. They also arranged airport deductible comprehensive insurance coverage was model. Our 550i was then prepped and delivered by shuttle service. We were offered a free factory tour, but included. BMW recommended purchasing a DVD cov- the local dealer. When the sales agreement is finalized,the transaction declined due to schedule conflicts. ering European territories for the GPS system. The cost proceeds and confirms a delivery date. All autos pur- was $165, certainly worth every penny. The time from drop-off to pick-up can vary, but usu- chased using this ally takes 6 to 8 weeks. Ours method will meet arrived in sparkling showroom U.S. regulations condition in eight weeks. and emissions standards. The European Delivery pro- Different manu- gram offers a great excuse facturers offer to experience a continental slightly different fling, and certainly makes the discounts, some process of buying a new car include airfare and a memorable and exciting even hotel rooms. event. Naturally the location of factory determines where A special tourist license plate was put on the car (which we brought home

as a souvenir). rooms are great for families. We had a two- bedroom apartment, giving my daughter a de Before treat. Best of all, the hotel is a real value in an expensive city, at about 200 euro per night. you go: kvu.at GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC Elegant Sacher Hotel and Café is home of Pre-planning is essential since one euro cur- In Munich, BMW arranged discounted rooms Cesky Krumlov’s Hotel Dvorak sits at the edge world famous Sachertorte, chocolate cake at The Kings Hotel, First Class. The rooms are of the Vltava River and the Barber’s Bridge. served with a dollop of whipped cream. It’s rently costs about $1.30. I began with the small with lovely canopy beds, priced between Ask for a room with a castle view, as it re- also available as take-out or mail-order. German Tourist site, germany-tourism. de 100-150 euro per night. My teen daughter mains illuminated all night. discoverczech. sacher.com which offers an excellent route planner rated their breakfast buffet as the best in Ger- com/cesky-krumlov/hotel/hotel-dvorak. many. kingshotels.com/first-class.htm. php4 We saved money in Hallstatt staying at Gastof throughout Europe, provides maps, directions, Zauner, where doubles cost less than 100 mileage, and estimated driving times. Also Don’t miss the Hofbrauhaus, “The” place to euro. This rustic pine guesthouse boasts a taste German beer alongside tourists from picture-book restaurant, with ivy growing helpful was the Austrian Tourist Office site. every other country in the world. Meals are through the windows and over the ceiling. Or- austria.info. inexpensive and tasty in an Octoberfest atmo- der the fish from the lake and be sure to get a sphere, hofbrauhaus.de room with a balcony. zauner.hallstatt.net More expensive, Hotel Gruner Baum located Karen Brown’s Guides, karenbrown.com, Neuschwanstein Castle: Mad King Ludwig’s right in the tiny town’s central square offers carry the apt subtitle: Exceptional Places to fairy tale dream. This is Germany’s number AUSTRIA fine lakeside dining and lodging with 20 guest- one tourist attraction, so pre-ordering tickets Hotel Schloss Monchstein in Salzburg is out- rooms. gruenerbaum.cc Stay & Itineraries. Karen suggests day-by- (with date and time) is imperative. Don’t miss standing, our trip favorite. The graciously ren- day plans and wonderful hotel options. Rick it! ticket-center-hohrnschwangau.de ovated castle hotel, with 24 rooms, provides privacy and scenic views. Walk 5-7 minutes Steve’s guidebooks rate sites of interest and The German Clock Museum: Also known as on a woodland trail to a lift, which descends provide terrific walking tours at the Cuckoo Clock Museum, it sits in out-of- directly into old town. Impeccable service and ricksteves.com. I also love browsing DK the-way Furtwangen, but can be reached by a superior restaurant. Pricey at 300-400 euros an invigorating drive through the Black Forest. per night, but worth the splurge. Eyewitness Travel Guides, dk.com, thanks to deutsches-uhrenmuseum.de monchstein.com. their eye-popping photos and detailed dia- Schlosshotel- Hirschhorn, near Heidelberg, is Also in Salzburg is Carpe Diem Finest Fin- grams and checklists of major tourist venues. a true fortress. The castle hotel overlooks the gerfood, where award-winning chef, Jörg Neckar River with fascinating views of locks Wörther, runs a healthy chic restaurant serving Tripadvisor.com offers personal pros and and barges. Their small restaurant surprised quick meals in crispy cones. INNSBRUCK us by serving the most delicious meal of our carpediemfinestfingerfood.com The Romantik Hotel Schwarzer Adler is lo- cons from previous visitors to attractions and trip. castle-hotel.de cated near, but not in, the pedestrian zone hotels and hotels.com lists numerous lodg- In Vienna, we chose Hotel Koing von Ungarn, of medieval Innsbruck. Bathrooms feature a boutique hotel just around the corner from Swarovski crystals, and its fantastic restau- ing choices and discounted rates. Prepay St. Stephen’s cathedral and within walking rant provides both old world charm and terrific rooms to save hundreds of dollars. distance of all center city sites. The spacious service. deradler.com Vera Marie Badertscher When she was Brett Stierli is a Field Technical Specialist for barely a year old, Vera took her ﬁrst road trip with Mazda North American Operations western region her family from Ohio to Mississippi. Since then she and a self-described auto enthusiast/adventurer. has meandered the roads of 45 states and explored Brett is also a movie location buff who enjoys ﬁnding many corners of the globe. From her home in Arizona and photographing movie location sites, and he she writes about Gila monsters, hawks, and backroad appreciates unique architecture such as 1950’s and adventures as well as lifestyle, shelter, international 1960’s mid-century modern design, googie, Eichler, travel, and the arts. She has received national awards and others. During his many business and personal for travel and internet writing that appeared in travels he enjoys discovering local/obscure family publications like “Arizona Highways,” “AAA Living,” dining establishments for every meal…the older “Home and Away,” “Steinway & Sons,” and the the better, no chain restaurants for this guy! Brett “Rolls Royce Owner’s Desk Diary.” Until the editors of is single and resides in an empty four-bedroom Automotive Traveler persuaded her to climb out of her house with a FULL three-car garage in Trabuco beloved Jeep Cherokee, she had never driven a Chevy Canyon, California. HHR and she had never been to Delaware, both now listed among her favorite things. (pen4hire.com)

John Rettie is an internationally renowned writer Dusty Dave It was a lucky day when Automotive and photographer, specializing on automotive topics, Traveler ﬁrst learned of Dusty Dave’s self-published photography, travel, computers, and high technology, book, The Top 100 Rustic Vacations, an outgrowth who lives in Santa Barbara, California. Rettie has of his 10-year-old website rusticvacations.com. managed to pack a wide range of experiences Dusty is an accomplished travel writer, photographer, into his career and has traveled the world covering and most importantly, an outdoors enthusiast who auto races, product launches, and numerous other in his travels has stayed at some of the most unique aspects of the auto industry. He’s visited 73 countries and charming lodges in North America. When he’s and his goal is to set foot in more than 100 before he not at his home in beautiful Telluride, Colorado, he Automotive Traveler Automotive retires. John is one of 50 members of the jury for the is most likely traveling around looking for new and annual World Car of the Year award. Previously, he interesting rustic vacation destinations to be proﬁled was a member of the jury for the North American Car in his monthly column for Automotive Traveler. of the Year award for 13 years. He was honored to be president of the Motor Press Guild in Los Angeles in 1990, 2004, and 2005. (johnrettie.com)

Debi Lander is a freelance travel writer and Cindy-Lou Dale A well-traveled writer on many seasoned international traveler who hails from topics, Cindy-Lou Dale is Automotive Traveler’s Jacksonville, Florida. She considers photography resident road warrior, having accumulated more than her hobby and has a keen interest in castles and her fair share of frequent ﬂyer miles. An accomplished cathedrals. Debi has run ten marathons including photographer as well as a writer, Cindy has Athens, Greece, the vineyards of Bordeaux, and contributed articles for magazines around the world, the 2001 Marine Corps Marathon past the 9/11 including The New York Times, National Geographic wreckage at the Pentagon. Debi is the proud new Adventure, Islands, Winding Road, Away Magazine, owner of a 2008 BMW 550i, which was acquired Penthouse and many other titles. Cindy-Lou was born through European Delivery in Munich. in South Africa and currently lives in England, but she spends weekends visiting her cats in Brussels. Read contributors some members of the team that brought that team the of members some of issue this you her blog at automotivetraveler.com.