Rtist Sigurður Guðmundsson Is a Man of the World. Living in China And

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 14 • 2010 • September 10 - 23 COMPLETE+ CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! ENTREPRENEURS ECONOMICS DINING MUSIC TRAVEL Tales from Angry reader Grapevine The mash-up The Icelandic Riviera the start-ups responds, surveys soup movement meets is not where calls us commies Iceland you expect

rtist Sigurður Guðmundsson is a man of the world. Living in China and mostly operating out of Holland, A he has had an unusually busy year in Iceland, along with exhibitions, unveilings and publications he even made the cover of the Grapevine. Now, find out about his adventures in Vietnam. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík 2 www.grapevine.is [email protected] Editorial | Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association www.saf.is

Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Look Who's Back!

Editor: Due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, S. Magnússon has set for this publication. Without Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Acting Editor: I have been called upon in this hour of need to her, this issue would probably not have seen the Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] briefly (and somewhat triumphantly) edit this is- light of day.

Editorial: sue of the Reykjavík Grapevine. It has been a There have been changes to the Icelandic +354 540 3600 / [email protected] pleasure to return to my old post as editor of the society since I left my regular position as editor Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Grapevine, filling in for the vacationing Haukur S. for the Reykjavík Grapevine. My last issue as of Magnússon, who will be back with you shortly. It the Grapevine was heavily influenced by a then- Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] has been nearly two years since I last put together recent event, which we have now come know as +354 540 3601 / [email protected] an issue of this fine publication. I am a little rusty, simply The Collapse. Now, nearly two years later, Contributing Writers: and therefore I’ve had to rely heavily on the help of the Grapevine is still analysing and reporting the Magnús Sveinn Helgason Bob Cluness the always-exuberant Grapevine staff, both past, aftermath. I hope this will all be over soon. I’d Paola Cardenas present and vacationing. I’d particularly like to rather talk about something else. So, here’s to op- Marc Vincenz Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl mention the contributions of one Catherine Fulton, timism. Paul Nikolov whose advice and assistance has been extremely Cheers! Christina Galvin Catharine Fulton important in my attempt to maintain the standard Bogi Bjarnason of excellence my predecessor/successor Haukur Íris Erlingsdóttir Victor Blaer Markús Þór Andrésson Nadja Sayej Mayor's Address | Jón Gnarr Editorial Interns: Eimear Fitzgerald / [email protected] Wiebke Wolter / [email protected]

On-line News Editor Paul Nikolov / [email protected] Welcome To Reykjavík

Art Director: The odds of you being in Reykjavík are not great. of the nature that it both existed and not. There- in Moomin elves. It is more of a certainty than a Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] The greatest part of mankind is elsewhere. It is fore, it always existed, and even if Schrödinger belief. I have seen them and touched them. I know

Design: scientifically proven. When I was little, I would of- killed his cat in a rather tasteless manner, it is still they exist. I have been to Moominworld in Naan- Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] ten ask myself why I had been born in Reykjavík. Is alive at Schrödinger's house, while Schrödinger tali, Finland. I have evidence; photographs, video

Photographer: it a coincidence where one is born? Is it subject to himself has been dead for a long time: recordings and witnesses. I had a good talk with Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com some universal law? Did I exist in any form before Moomin Papa. He told me that life in Moominval-

Sales Director: I was born? Did I have anything to do with where ley was much better after Finland joined the EU. Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] I was born? Why did Eva Braun and Adolf Hitler Does this mean that I always existed, or that He encouraged us Icelanders to join the EU. He Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] not bear any children? Did they not try to? Can it I never existed and do therefore not exist now? also said that the Moomins had always existed, Distribution: be that no child wanted them as parents? I don’t That can’t be! It would mean that all our existence long before Tove Jansson “invented” them. The [email protected] know, but I do not believe in coincidence. I do not was unreal and only existed in our own imagina- Moomins are eternal, at least in books. Proofreader: Jim Rice believe that God plays dice, especially not when tion. If I do not exist, then neither do you. I have I hope these thoughts shed some light on the human lives are concerned. These thoughts inevi- a hard time believing that. The facts speak for history of Reykjavík and its culture. I hope you en- Press releases: [email protected] tably lead one to consider Schrödinger's cat. He is themselves. If I am not real, then how could I fly joy your time in Reykjavík, that you go swimming Submissions inquiries: probably one of the most famous cats in the world to Finland, send myself a post card with a picture a lot and tell all your friends how fun Reykjavík is, [email protected] Subscription inquiries: (maybe after Ninja Cat). Still no one knows what of Tarja Halonen, the President of Finland, fly back and how everyone is always happy there and that +354 540 3605 / [email protected] it was called? What was Schrödinger's cat called? home and welcome the mailman that brought me you will never forget your hotel, Suðurlandsbraut General inquiries: [email protected] Abracadabra? I don’t remember. Let’s call it Phoe- the card? I don’t know. I am one of many Iceland- and the eternally young cat Phoenix nix. That is a common name for cats. Phoenix was ers that believe in elves and trolls. I mainly believe Jón Gnarr, Mayor of Reykjavík Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir

The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country.

You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 14 • 2010 • September 10 - 23 COMPLETE+ CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! ENTREPRENEURS ECONOMICS DINING MUSIC TRAVEL On the cover: Tales from Angry reader Grapevine The mash-up The Icelandic Riviera the start-ups responds, surveys soup movement meets is not where calls us commies Iceland you expect Sigurður Guðmundsson Photo Illustration: Hristbjörnsson Photo © Hörður Sveinsson Artwork courtesy of the artist and

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Tíu Dropar Laugavegi 27 Rafting Ice Climbing Snorkeling Diving Glacier Hike Canoeing Hiking Kayaking Cycling

Climbing Super-Jeep Caving Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV Incentive MOST AWESOME LETTER Sour grapes A buncha POLAR BEER for your thoughts We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, over the years, and stuff it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden- tinted beer has consistently failed to let us down. In the immortal words of the Say your piece, voice your opinion, once-reputable Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." send your letters to: [email protected] Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we thought we'd share some wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. Not only that, you're also getting the gift of social life with it. So here's the deal: our most awesome letter of each issue (henceforth, or until the good people of POLAR BEER decide they don't want to play along anymore), we will be providing our MOST AWESOME LETTER scribe with twelve frothy POLAR BEERS, to be imbibed at a Reykjavík bar of their choice (so long as 4 that bar is either Bakkus or Venue). If y'all's letter is the one, drop us a line to collect. Give us your worst: [email protected] Letters (Light) MOST AWESOME LETTER:

To the editor of Reykjavík Grapevine. church and state in 1907, renewed in 1997. Naturally, there is an opt-out clause, but I have According to that contract the church handed this funny feeling that if registration to the Na- My name is Þórhallur and I am a minister of all it´s belongings over to the state. Instead the tional Church were based on the more justifi- the National Church of Iceland, working in state promised to pay those salaries of the 138 able notion of informed consent, rather than Hafnarfjörður. ministers, 2 vice-bishops and the bishop. And assumed consent, the percentage of the popu- I am also a great fan of Reykjavik Grapevine what were those belongings? In the year 1907 lation registered would be substantially lower. and I love to read it in Coffey houses in Reyk- the church owned ca 30% of all the land es tats And this is only one aspect of the problem of javik, sipping my latte, when I have a day of in the country. Those estates had belonged to assumed consent. We could go on philosophiz- from my congregation. the church for many ages. But now it handed ing about the ethical dilemmas of registering In your last issue nr.13, there was an article them over to the state. This contract would infants to an institution under assumed con- by Paul Nikolov on the problems of the Icelan- still be valid even if it would come to a full sent, but let us save that for another day. dic church today. A fine article I must ad in separation of church and state. To give you an The second part of your argument is some- many ways. But in the article Ifound a misun- example then one of those old farms are today what problematic as well. First, I believe a con- derstanding which I would like to try to try to the national parck of Þingvellir. The Westman tract made in 1907 might fairly be considered correct. Paul wrote "Naturally, most clergy are Islands is another. to be up for renegotiation, in particular since nervous about the ideas (on the separation of So this is the fiscal ground of the Icelandic the grounds that contract was based on have church and state) - if the church had to survive church. Not state taxes or state revenues. But likely changed drastically. On top of that, it is on donations alone, given the church´s low at- rents from the big farms which belonged to likely possible to raise fair doubts as to how the tendance rates, their size (and clergy salaries) the church for 900 years, most of them. Church came to own these estates in the first would have to be drastically reduced". In the place. I’m not sure that a closer look at that sec- same article Paul wrote that the church re- Thanks again for your paper, tion of history would reflect those dealings in ceived 5 billion ISK in state revenues per year. rev.Þórhallur Heimisson a very positive light. But rest assured, if that Well, here is the problem. Half of those 5 contract ever comes up for renegotiation, I billions ISK, 2.5 billions is payed to the con- Thank you for your letter Þórhallur, would make no claim to retaining the West- gregations directly by those who belongs to man Islands. I’ll happily grant you that rock. the congregations. Not by the state. The state Although I am currently serving as an acting In conclusion, I believe that the separation of only collect´s the money, as it does for every editor, and not really in a position to speak on state and church is necessary, not so much for religious nomination in Iceland. And you pay behalf of the regular editor, allow me an op- the financial reasons, we have discussed here, the same price to your congregation weather portunity to answer your letter. but for the simple fact that this relationship is you belong ton the national church, the Asa First, I’d like to address your point that a anachronistic at best. Physicist Stephen Hawk- congregation, Zen buddistic society or what- half (2.5 billion) of the state’s contribution to ing recently claimed that there was no room ever. The amount of money which goes to the the church is congregation fee, collected for for god in modern science. I believe there is national Church is so high because 79% of the every congregation, and that it is this high no room for church as institution with in our Icelandic people belongs to this church. And because 79% of the Icelandic people are mem- notion of the modern state and what it should those kronas goes directly to different congre- bers of the National Church. While this is true, stand for. This is a statement on political sci- gations depending on size and have nothing in and of it self, it does not really accurately ence, not religion. to do with the church leadership. This leaves portray the bigger picture. The reason that 2.5 billion ISK. Those kronas pay the salries of 79% of the Icelandic population are members However, since yours was undoubtedly this 138 minister, one bishop and two vice-bishops. of the National Church is that children are au- issue’s most awesome letter, I wonder if you But whon´t the church loose those money in tomatically registered for the National Church would rather we send you some wine for mass, case of full separation? No, because those upon birth under the notion of assumed con- than the beer we usually dole out in apprecia- money are payed from the state to the church sent. tion of intelligent desi… erhm debate? on the grounds of a contract made between

Hey Guys, I have an interesting subject for you guys, And the blood offering has no costs for the do- which kinda chock me. Well more that usual, nor, they said proudly :) Really? Probably they I'm new to the city and I'm searching for a bar with those special Icelandic rules. are thinking charging people to give up their with a good foosball table. blood in the future? My research gave me Bakkus, but the table is The other day, I went to the Blood bank (Blóð- Silly... not so good. bankinn) with the intention of offering my So, do you know any other places where a table blood... I was received with a smile and in- Keep up the good work and hopping you could soccer is? I've asked someone formed that in order to get my blood if I need write some controversial stuff about blood in today, but I can't remember the name of the to read and understand Icelandic. Iceland ;) place. I have some basic Icelandic. since I've been living in Iceland some time now, but as soon Rgds, It would be great if you have time to answer I heard that I really didn't made an effort and Alex such a special question. pushed it further to understand the reasons of this... Well… I am not really acquainted with the btw: You're doing a great job! inner workings of the Blóðbankinn, but this They explain to me, that people must be able sounds rather xenophobic. But let me assure Bye, to understand the papers given to you. Being you that you are not the only one being ostra- Johannes used to other volunteer jobs in France and cized, since the blood bank also turns down other countries in Europe, I pushed further... willing donations from homosexuals, recently Sure Johannes, tattooed people, prisoners, and people who There is an excellent fooβball table at the very They explained to me, offering me coffee, that have recently returned from … well, any third excellent and über friendly Hemmi og Valdi this is law also exist in Norway. But it seems world country really. That leaves the pool of on Laugavegur 21. Happy playing. nobody knows about it, even Icelanders... potential blood donors rather thin, actually, and as a reason, the bloodbank regularly runs They added in the end, that if I will live time out of blood, much like the Icelandic banks Hi Guys, enough and take Icelandic courses I could have run out of cash … but that is another story Congrats for your newspaper, more and more come back. I didn't went in details about how entirely. popular. long I live here or what nationality I was... Ed. Enjoy dining out Kraum of the crop

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Opinion | Paul Nikolov Opinion | Íris Erlingsdóttir Muslims, Iceland, The Body Electorate and the EU While waiting at a doctor‘s office a couple of “I must admit that it hadn’t With the news that a plot of land for a mosque weeks ago, I was paging through a recent copy in Reykjavík might possibly be approved—some of Séð og Heyrt, a weekly magazine that chron- occurred to me that having a 10 years after the Muslim Society of Iceland first icles the lives and loves of Iceland‘s rich and/or certain body type would in and of applied for one—the comments sections of news famous/infamous. websites such as Eyjan were exploding with rage. The particular issue featured photographs of itself automatically qualify one for It can be pretty disheartening to read some of the Icelandic women who‘ve posed for Playboy—in national office” stunningly pig ignorant things people say in the particular a young Icelandic woman, Ásdís Rán, comments section of any news article, but some- whose chief claim to fame, I‘ve gathered, is un- I must admit that it hadn’t occurred to me that thing about the topic of Islam brings out the worst dressing for a Bulgarian version of Playboy and having a certain body type would in and of itself in some Europeans. In fact, it's precisely because also being the wife of an Icelandic soccer player. automatically qualify one for national office, but of this that I'm leaning towards the “no” column of In this day and age being eye candy on the pages this newfound knowledge has given me a few Iceland joining the European Union. of a men‘s magazine is considered a major pro- ideas. I sometimes get the sinking feeling that histo- fessional accomplishment—up there with being See, I’ve been thinking of running for a seat in ry is about to repeat itself with regards to Muslims cast in a Hollywood movie or getting on Ameri- the Constitutional Convention (elections for which in Europe. You hear all the same racist criticisms can Idol. Yeah, sorry Ada... (Ada? Ada who? Ada are nearing—Nov 30th—although the Ministry of that were said about Europe's Jews some 70 years Yonath, 2009 Nobel Prize winner for chemistry). Justice doesn’t seem to be aware of this; when I ago: they're trying to take over the continent, they The magazine‘s editor (an old colleague of mine) checked yesterday they hadn’t even put the re- don't want to assimilate, they don't belong here, suggested in his editorial that since Jón Gnarr—the quired signature forms on the election website), they should be forced to change to our way of life actor and comedian turned politician—managed and what rather depressed me about that process (whatever that means) or be deported, and so on. to become mayor of Reykjavík, then logically Ms. was a provision in the Constitutional Convention Worst of all, EU authorities show a double stan- Rán might just as well become Iceland‘s President. law that states that candidates can spend “no dard when it comes to this kind of behaviour. The I would have to agree with him for a few reasons; more than two million krónur” on their election commission makes no hesitation in demanding the chief one being that now that the office of campaign. that eastern Europe clean house from the top down the Icelandic President has been reduced to a PR Since I have not even one or even half a million if they want a piece of the pie, but when it comes to catering & event service for Icelandic “business- krónur to spend on convincing my fellow Iceland- the EU's stronger financial players, like Italy and men,” it would seem that potential candidates ers that I would be the candidate best qualified to France, they don't seem terribly concerned about now did not necessarily have to be endowed with represent their interests in this venture, I worried Berlusconi's treatment of the Roma people, or the great political, academic, intellectual, or diplo- how in the world I would be able to convince them fantastically racist policies of Sarkozy. matic skills—all of which Ms. Rán may very well to vote for me. Just as in the 1930s, Europe's so-called moder- possess, of course—but rather the ability to enter- But now I know ... ates turn a blind eye to the words and actions of tain lavishly (at taxpayers’ expense) and compose the continent's extremists, because they're “only” shameless hype about aforementioned financial targeting a minority that Europeans hate and fear windbags. This regeneration of the Office of the already. I have very little faith in the ability of EU President thus greatly increases the potential can- officials to prevent the ethnic cleansing of Mus- didate pool. lims in Europe, but I sincerely hope they prove me wrong. Putting that aside, it's not as though Iceland is Iceland | Statistics terribly progressive when it comes to how it treats its country's Muslims—if the wait they've had to endure for just a piece of land on which to build a house of worship is any indication—but we also Gender Rule don't have laws banning religious imagery, nor have we instituted a fingerprinting campaign of The chart on the right demonstrates changes be- 100 % ethnic minorities, nor have we adopted a penal tween years for ministers in the Icelandic govern- code that can deport third-generation Icelanders. ment by gender. As you can see, the late seventies And our constitution still implicitly protects reli- was the age of man. But since 1980, the gender dif- ference is gradually decreasing. Albeit, yes ... gradu- gious freedom for all. Could there be hope here ally. Very gradually. Some day soon, though … Female 33% after all? It is tempting to relate the changes since 1980 to I believe so. Take a look at gay rights in Iceland, the foundation of the Women’s Party in 1983. Discus- Male 67% for example, compared to the rest of Europe. Be- sion of the participation of women in politics was one 50 % cause of the density of our society, we were able to of the reasons the party was founded, and may have more rapidly conduct a discourse on the subject, played a part in putting the issue in the public eye and change legislation with changing attitudes before the party was actually founded. The party first far faster than could be expected in other Euro- ran for elections in 1983 and there is a trend towards pean countries. Today, our gay rights legislation is more female participation in government until 2000. among the most progressive on the planet. There is surely some conspiracy theorist out As rage-inducing as some of the comments to there who will point out how these changes coincide Ministers by gender 1970 - 2008 be found on this country's news websites may be, with the rise of the Icelandic economic bubble, but Source: Statistics Iceland and DataMarket Iceland's Muslims probably stand a better chance I’m not going to do it. 0 % Check out an interactive graph at www.datamarket.com here than anywhere else in Europe. 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 (short link: www.url.is/3z0)

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík • +354 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 A neoliberal voices his opinion on page 10. Apparently they are not all missing. 8

N ews | Iceland in the International Eye: August Opinion | Magnús Sveinn Helgason More Bones Of Contention The mysterious case of the disappearing neoliberal

from these countries, and show them In the fall of 2008 there was “It is therefore interesting to see that we mean business.” no shortage of proclama- Stevenson goes on: “[Icelanders] tions that the implosion of that those who have been the are harking back to this great [cod war] the global financial system most tireless spokespeople of victory [of the past], thinking they can meant that the laissez faire et laissez neoliberal economic policies in passer economic policies that had been do it again. But they have another thing Iceland all claim that there is coming. Because it's not just Britain pursued on both sides of the Atlantic were dead. That Neoliberalism itself, they are up against this time. It's the no such thing as neoliberalism” with its overemphasis on market solu- whole of the EU and their close neigh- tions to all human problems, its disdain This has in fact been a reoccurring bour in Norway.” Maria Damanaki, EU for government in any shape, size or theme on right wing blogs in Iceland. Fisheries Commissioner, has made form, would finally be put to rest. There Last July, The Federation of Young it quite clear that the EU is seriously was talk of a “new” New Deal in the US Conservatives declared that any talk of considering imposing trade sanctions and here in Iceland a historic “pure” left neoliberalism was utter nonsense, since on Iceland. The Independent noted: wing government promised to reinvigo- “there is no such thing”. “The EU, which suspects that Iceland’s rate the welfare state with Scandina- Never mind the fact that neoliberal- [unilateral mackerel quota] decision vian social democratic principles and ism is a widely accepted term referring is being driven by the parlous state of to defend the working families—literally to the ideological project of privatisa- its economy, says it will reconsider all to raise a “wall of shields around the tion, deregulation and free markets fishing agreements with [Iceland and homes”. Hooray! reforms carried out by politicians and Well, not so fast. Not only have gov- ideologues who have sought their in- “Do you think that people in Europe tor’s Investigations and the HS Orka/ the Faroes]—which could spell chaos to ernments on either side of the Atlantic spiration in the writings of Friedrich von would ever want to revolt again Magma debate, that the Alþingi has conserve stocks such as cod.” failed to resurrect either the New Deal Hayek and Milton Friedman. Never mind if they thought that their banking more than enough on its plate. Only or the social democratic Welfare states that the ideology of free market liberals community was treating them like now, they are truly being stretched to Wikileaks wars of the Post-War period, their overriding of the past 20–30 years is dramatically feudal lords catering to specula- the brink. Iceland is facing a possible Meanwhile, over in the United States, concern seem to be balanced budgets. different from that of free marketers of tive, buccaneering interest-rate revisit of the 70s “cod war” played out the Obama Administration is calling While there is much talk about the State the 19th century or the early 20th cen- arbitrageurs, instead of maybe ser- with an entirely different kettle of fish: for all of its allies to consider criminal being back in, IMF prescribed Neo- tury in its utopian vision and belief in vicing their needs as a democratic mackerel. charges against WikiLeaks’ Julian As- Hooverism appears to be on the rise. In revolutionary transformation of society. people?” sange for the release of confidential US the fall of 2008, we were told neoliber- No. According to right wing bloggers Max Kaiser interviewing Ásgeir Jónsson, Mackerel madness military reports from the war in Afghan- alism had been completely discredited and ideologues there is no such thing. Head of Research, Kaupþing Bank in 2007 And Iceland is certainly not the EU’s istan. An “American diplomat” inter- as an ideology, but we have yet to see But this is not the end of the Soph- flavour of the month. Aside from sneer- viewed by The Daily Beast this month anyone articulate a coherent alternative ism of Icelandic neoliberals, because they have simultaneously argued that On August 22, US investment advisor ing Viking-like at the accession table, maintained that WikiLeaks’ release of vision. And now Icelandic leftists are generally of the opinion that it is only there is such a thing as neoliberalism! Mike Shedlock reported on his blog Iceland’s self-assigned mackerel quo- more than 70,000 war logs—and a threat a matter of years before neoliberalism In February 2009, the Libertarian Soci- Mish, that former US Governor of the tas are literally driving the European from Assange to reveal 15,000 more—is reigns supreme yet again. ety of Iceland sent out a press release Federal Reserve (2006-2008), Fred- parliament completely koo-koo. As putting all allied troops in Afghanistan It is therefore interesting to see that “celebrating the death of the so-called eric Mishkin—who is still employed stated in the Guardian, Brussels main- in serious jeopardy. An “American mili- those who have been the most tireless neoliberalism”, arguing that the eco- as a professor at Columbia Business tains that “Iceland and the Faroe Is- tary official” told The Daily Beast that spokespeople of neoliberal economic nomic policy followed by most western School—was paid $124,000 in 2006 by lands, who have ripped up agreed quo- Washington may want to review its re- policies in Iceland all claim that there governments, including the Icelandic the Icelandic Chamber of Commerce to tas, unilaterally awarding themselves lations with Iceland in the wake of As- is no such thing as neoliberalism, that government, was indeed neoliberalism. write a glowing report on the Icelandic the lion's share of north Atlantic stock.” sange’s actions. Some may re- there never was, and that any claim to According to the libertarian society this economy. Shedlock includes a clip from Iceland has set its mack- call that Senator John Ensign the opposite is some kind of slander. awful policy was characterised by a filmmaker Charles Ferguson’s docu- erel catch quota at three blocked the confirmation of Hannes Hólmsteinn Gissurarson, pro- growing state apparatus and regulatory mentary, Inside Job, where a seriously times the quantity that the the newest US Ambassador fessor of political science, and probably industries and government interference miffed Frederic Mishkin tries to cover- EU deems reasonable. to Iceland. According to the the most vocal free market ideologue in in private business. According to the right wing blog “Birdwhispers” at AMX, up his underhanded dealings. Curious- Struan Stevenson, se- Las-Vegas Review-Journal, Iceland, has made this argument on his blog. neoliberalism is simply a different name ly, although originally entitled “Finan- nior vice-president on Senator Ensign only released The anger of Hannes Hólmsteinn is for “third way” mixed economy popular cial Stability in Iceland”, on Mishkin’s the European par- the appointment when he directed at the “neo-“ prefix: In Icelan- with Social Democrats since the 1990s. current CV the report has now been liament's fisher- felt assured that the dic neoliberalism has been translated So, the neoliberalism we thought we conveniently renamed “Financial IN- ies committee, has nominee, Luis Arrea- as ný-frjálshyggja, where the word fr- knew never ever existed, and there is stability in Iceland”. (He says this was called both coun- ga, shared his con- jálshyggja in Icelandic refers to either no reason to blame the most ardent fol- a typo—whoops, slip of the keyBORED.) tries “modern-day cern about WikiLe- liberalism or libertarianism. Hannes lowers of neoliberal policies, professor Ferguson’s film, which premiered at Viking raiders”, and aks. (One would assume argues that there is only one true lib- Hannes Hólmsteinn, the utopian free the Cannes Film Festival in May, was stated: “…What will it take short of an- this concern also includes the new Ice- eralism, based on the love of freedom marketers of the Libertarian Society or described by Indiwire as: “[A movie nouncing we are going to institute a landic Modern Media Initiative.) and limited government, and this ideol- the Federation of Young Conservatives that] depicts one of the largest heists trade war? That is what I am actually To top it all off, it looks quite like ogy has not changed in any meaningful for anything this alleged neoliberalism in history, breaking down the com- suggesting now. We should use that as Iceland may be about to face a national way since the time of Locke and Hume. wrought. plexities that led to the rise of an out of threat. We should follow the example of referendum on the privatisation of en- The neo- prefix is really a cuss word, When you think about it this is a control industry and the financial melt- the fishermen in Peterhead. [Who re- ergy resources. I am sure some of us invented by left wing enemies of liber- clever strategy: By objecting to the tarians and defenders of free markets: words used to denominate your ideol- down of 2008, plunging the world into cently blockaded a Faroe fishing vessel are thinking: When in hell can we get When people use the word they are ogy you can divert the discussion away crisis at a cost of $20 trillion and along from landing its mackerel catch—ap- down to leading our quiet pastoral life deliberately trying to insult libertarians, from the results of your ideology when with it millions of people’s jobs, homes, parently worth over GBP 400,000—in here on the brink of the Arctic Circle? that using the word is in fact some kind put into practice and force your critics and dignity.” the UK port.] We should threaten to of hate-speech. to conduct the conversation on your One would think what with Icesave, close all the EU ports to Faroese and marcv incenz terms. . the Black Report, the Special Prosecu- Icelandic vessels, block all imports mtlóa hjál ýsdóttir

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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 While the Grapevine does not fully endorse, or even remotely, Blaer's opinion, we'll 10 happily let him voice it.

Opinion | Reader Response Foreign Investment Racism and Grapevine's leftist communistic hippies

Words Not for Sale" button, please take off your No one is buying or stealing or raping “No one is buying or stealing or raping (as some of your earphones (you can listen to Sigurrós lat- (as some of your more ill-informed taste- Victor Blaer er) and take notice. Directive 2003/54/EC less readers have put it) the land or re- more ill-informed tasteless readers have put it) the land or which is based on 96/92/EC, says gov- source. They simply are acting in accor- resource.” ernments need to split up energy com- dance with previous EU directives whose "An empty barrel makes the loudest panies into 1) the natural monopoly part goal is to increase competition in the sound" (Icelandic proverb) (transmission, distribution) which owns generation of electricity and to separate they no longer have any income be- Yes it does matter where Björk pays Since the discussion in your paper re- the RESOURCES and 2) the competitive the competition part from the resource cause their biggest customer left for the her taxes. If you have no stake/risk in garding the geothermal industry and part of electricity generation. This split part. cheaper better energy? That's right. The it, you shouldn't have a voice in it Magma is on such a low level and dumb up was implemented after c.a. 10 years After this deal, Magma & HS Orka’s tax payers. Can you say IceSave 2.0? Say I'm on board with the mayor of Reyk- people keep repeating dumber things til of prep work. You know how Icelanders share of the electricity market will be instead of a new energy being invented janesbær, Árni Sigfússon, regarding eventually people start thinking they're have to send everything to a committee, 8.7% and the Governments will be 91.3%. a new superior alloy is and aluminium Björk and where she pays her taxes. true, I decided I needed improve the sig- argue ENDLESSLY about it, run around Do we not have bigger problems to solve, becomes worthless? Again, this would Simple application of Decision Theory nal to noise ratio by pointing out some like "sheep with their heads cut off" and focus on, then a nice Canadian running a bankrupt the energy companies’ biggest says that agents who don't have a stake relevant facts before this "foreigner in- in the end, do nothing. Here we are at small energy company when the govern- customer, which would bankrupt every in the outcome shouldn't have a share in vestment racism" escalates and the stu- least 14 years later and some idiots are ment still rocks over 90% of the market? single Icelandic energy company. The the vote. For example, if you're the one pid people continue to make more noise. about to ruin it all with their emotional ir- Really? IceSave? No free flow of capital, only thing left would be the debt. Which, going into physical harm when you go to (I've worked as a geophysics researcher rational opinions. early 1960's anyone? High unemploy- again, us the tax payers would have to war, you'll be less inclined to go. and as corporate finance professional fo- Some quick facts: Governments suck ment? Research and development down pay. I'm sorry, but aren't we kind of tired If Björk wants a say in this, she bet- cusing on geothermal power, dating back at everything they do (besides collecting at all the Universities? Frozen real estate as people of paying for other peoples’ ter pay her taxes here. Because when the to 2001.) your hard earned money). Until 06 they market? Lots of people with negative mistakes? I have trouble paying for my government mismanages another power ran 100% of the energy market. And the equity value (bankrupt)? And you guys own mistakes, much less other peoples'. company, it won't be her taxes going up, Venezuela, North Korea and Iceland geniuses they are, decided to finance focus on the 8.7% market share that is Every single venture these government it will be mine/ours. I for one am tired of "Iceland is not for sale" – No one wants (that means pay for) their operations being sold to the second private owner owned energy companies venture into, the government going into my pocket it. It's been a couple of years since the mostly through debt (that means borrow- of an energy company. It's like looking at loses money. to finance their bullshit. With the pub- implosion of the economy and how many ing) and not equity (that means cash). a patient haemorrhaging blood from his lic’s outcry over the whole HS Orka deal investors have tried to come here and Private energy companies will find an op- jugular and the doctors are trying to pick What do power companies, lobster (when a foreigner wanted it, but it was actually do business? One. And you idi- timal balance between debt and equity. out the right colour band aid to cover the farming and subocean fibre optic ca- fine when it was an Icelandic company. ots are trying to kick him out. Foreign in- See the thing with debt is that you have paper cut on his thumb. bles have in common? Besides los- You racists) and the Minister of Agricul- vestment is welcomed everywhere in the to pay interest on the debt. And when ing taxpayer money: the government ture's various laws on banning import of world with the exception of Venezuela you finance yourself 100% with debt (es- Icelanders can go abroad and do en- And they do some crazy shit: Orkuveita numerous products and the number of (go Chavez! ) North Korea, Iran and some pecially foreign) you are paying a lot of ergy projects + foreigner investors Reykjavikur: lobster farming/fibre optic stupid policies and endless taxes I feel other places. It makes economic sense to interest. What's really cool about debt is can't come here = Hypocrisy. cables (-1bn ISK at least), Landsvirkjun: like the country course is on a collision get some new blood in here. that if the company (the debtor) misses For years, Icelandic energy companies, fibre optic cable "FARICE"(- 20 M Euros with communism and or the bleak Icelan- so much as a single interest payment, the investors and professionals have bought/ at least) … and now OR is raising their dic economy of the 1900-1990. Have fun IBM decides not to come, not that creditor (the guy lending you the money) partaken/executed energy projects in prices by 30% because the government with that. you care, since it's not Apple takes ownership of the company. Now, all China, USA, Hungary, Germany, El Sal- run company decided to finance them- How many have left or decided not to three government owned energy compa- vador, which was totally fine. But when selves in foreign currency. I mean, hey, Sources: Energy Agency of Iceland for the come? A lot. Just recently IBM said they nies took on a lot of foreign debt, when someone wants to come here and reduce what's the incentive to improve as a busi- various market shares, Wikipedia for the EU weren't going into one of the data cen- Orkuveita Reykjavikur and HS Orka/Vei- the government's 100% stake down to ness, if you know you won't go bankrupt directives. tres because of the Government's slow tur couldn't make their interest payments 91.3%, boo fucking hoo! "No Iceland is because the tax payers will finance all policy making on Value Added Tax. See they are, for all intents and purposes, not for sale" Ahhh, everybody, assemble your mistakes themselves. It's awesome! what left wing pseudo communists/ OWNED BY THE FOREIGN BANKS. the leftist hippie woollen sweater army You need more money? No problem, just socialists don't realise is that capitalism Since the governmental geniuses and attack! " raise prices 30%! means you have to be competitive to suc- used debt financing to such an extreme, I'm trying to start my own tech com- ceed. When taxes are higher here than in that means a shit load of the money they Risk management of the govern- pany. It's just a little difficult when my Europe, Iceland isn't as competitive. It's get from their biggest customer, the Alu- ments investments income tax has been raised over 40% to like attaching little weights on a sprinter minium industry, goes right out of the "You can't spell RISK without ISK – Risk help pay for the government's mistakes, then wondering why he doesn't make the country in the form of interest payments, management". Risk management is taxes on various goods have been raised Olympics. The more involved government which means it's the foreign bank making about asking what could go wrong and to a world record setting 25.5% and try- gets in industries that are supposed to most of the money. I won't go into detail acting accordingly and doing your best to ing to attract venture capital from for- be run on a competitive basis the higher about the various practices the Alumin- not place all your eggs in the same bas- eigners is impossible. So I lack the capital our taxes get, because they suck at it and ium industry uses to transfer its profits ket. So 92% to 100% of the energy mar- to finance my company because I have to need our money to finance their failures. out of the country. In short the picture is ket is owned by the government and thus pay such high taxes to the government this: the money the Energy Company gets the tax payers. That's a lot of eggs in one because they are incapable of running Energy production is supposed to goes to the foreign bank that lent it the basket. What happens if there is a new their business of being a government. be competitive and it's not when the money. Profit the Aluminium company kind of superior cheaper fuel invented? government runs the entire industry gets goes out of the country and their Well, these energy companies won't be Until 2006, the Icelandic government, products are sold elsewhere. So in the worth shit. But, they still will have to pay which is funded by the tax payers, owned end, we are vicariously exporting energy off their foreign loans (see this is where 100% of the energy market. In 2006, they via aluminium (like 1/3 of the aluminium equity financing would have been a good finally commenced implementation of cost is electricity) and the profits go out idea, but no, you wanted the government EU directives that originated as early as with it. Great system we have, let's do ev- to own it). But how will they do that when 1996. So everyone that's wearing a wool- erything to keep it! en sweater, with your hipster "Iceland is

2002 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Total debt of Orkuveita Reykjavíkur 2003 27 billions 30 billions 32 billions 40 billions 71 billions 103 billions 211 billions 241 billions 2002 - 2009 in ISK ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images.

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU- Hverﬁ sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) SCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is

LÉTTÖL Fíton ehf. / SÍA The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 12

Words Markús Þór Andrésson

Photo Illustration Hristbjörnsson

Photo © Hörður Sveinsson

just came home from an intense 2010. Now I am back here in Xiamen, to me, even after Icesave. However, the your question, I have little belief in the Is being a foreigner or an out- I week in Shanghai, exhibiting, per- relaxing on my balcony overlooking a image that the Dutch have of Iceland- notion of nationality and I feel that we sider an important thread in your forming and partying. My wife Ineke beautiful sunset over the South China ers has been impaired, and maybe need to start thinking of something work as an artist? and I were celebrating the anniversary Ocean. rightly so. There are many people still else. The need for some kind of roots or It is hard for me to talk about a thread of the Chinese European Art Centre, suffering because of this mess caused a mutual background with other people in my work because I have always gone a ten-year exchange between Chinese How is the relationship between by an Icelandic bank, even though it is the same as always, but today it might from one different thing to the other. I and Dutch artists. Holland has always you as an Icelander and the may be exaggerated in the Dutch and be more relevant in another context have great respect for artists who work treated me as a Dutch artist and includ- Dutch in light of the conflict be- British media to cover up the fact that than nationality. But, the feeling of be- their way up to a certain plane or level ed me in their international activities. tween the two nations in the af- they also made big mistakes in this af- ing a foreigner is important to me and and in their work they continually con- This was a big exhibition connected to termath of the crash? fair. But I have very limited knowledge has been for a long time. I like being a firm this level and deepen it. Some of the Expo world fair, entitled Dialogue Holland has always been very kind of these matters. In general, regarding foreigner, that hasn’t changed. my favourite artists are like that and I The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 13

really feed on their art. But cats do not a certain obsession. They turned out This is of course a paradox. I might receiver and a sender, are able to find a notist approached me three quarters eat cats; they eat mice. So I am not wor- to be seventeen and they had to be re- be the wrong person to talk to about mutual understanding without words, of an hour later in the crowded gallery ried about liking art by people who work ally large in format—perhaps that was the outcome, but I think this turned it takes time and when they reach and woke me up, casting Charles out differently than I do. My method is dif- a mistake, I don’t know. I actually feel out well and that this was the way to go an agreement they may simply nod. and bringing Sigurður back. I remem- ferent, I always jump off the deep end, that the works were at their strongest about this project. Publishing the book I guess this is related to how music ber waking up and seeing all these creating a new kind of work, letting it before I made the actual photographs, was fulfilling and to me it works well. works. faces staring at me. Someone came go and then moving on to the next one. when I was creating them. Looking at Art is curious in this way, sometimes with a glass of mineral water and when Like a writer, perhaps, who writes one the scenes with people alive in front of a work may only function as an idea, Do you mistrust language? I rejected it and insisted on red wine, novel and then the next one, some may me, the question is if these works could sometimes it is awful until the day of No, but I feel all the time how it people laughed, because everyone had be good and others bad. That is why have been done in any other medium the opening of an exhibition and some- misleads us in our communication just witnessed the same woman asking I cannot talk about my photographic than as photos. I did use the most elab- times you think it is fantastic until the with other people. One of my favourite Charles what he’d like to drink and he work as a series, even though I made it orate photographic technique. moment it is shown. I think that muse- writers, Fernando Pessoa, said about wanted a glass of mineral water. in two different time periods and give um exhibitions are great in this respect; his background that he was not Portu- Afterwards there was a party and each work group a title when they are The Mutes seem to deal with when you can pick something old and guese, but that he lived within the Por- the usual fanfare and I went back home exhibited separately. I made Situations non-verbal experience. A search exhibit it with something new, break up tuguese language. That is how strongly to China a few days later. I took with in the seventies and exhibited the more for something outside rational the linearity of the process. The fact is he felt about language and his use of it me the videotape of the performance recent Mutes just a few years ago and it knowledge or physical environ- that I am a person who finds that what in his work. but I had no desire to look at it. I had turned out to be somewhat unpopular. ment—are you attempting to I feel is always the most interesting; I I have written my novels in Icelan- also finished the draft for the Animals Both include individual works that may document an emotional or spiri- know that I need to be emotionally in- dic but I cannot say that I am doing it in Saigon but I had no ambition to be connected but I do not regard them tual reality? telligent enough to really think with my because of love for the language. For work on it. I was somehow totally dis- as a series. Both, I would say. For me it was quite feelings instead of using words. You me it would be like a painter with an interested, didn’t read anything and interesting with the hypnotized people experience this for example when you obsessive relationship to oil on canvas had no interest in anything, which is This spring you displayed Situ- that I photographed, they weren’t really are in love; I think this state of mind is and that is not my love affair. In the be- very unusual for me. I didn’t put this ations in the i8 gallery here in there. There is an image of a woman in extremely interesting. Usually, the less ginning, in fact, I wrote much more in in context with the performance and Reykjavík. You created it in the her own home, leaning on to an Ikea rational knowledge you have about the Dutch than ever in Icelandic so my rela- just thought I was tired after the work seventies and then you did not chair. The title of this work is Hypno: subject you love, the stronger the emo- tionship with language is trivial. But of or maybe I thought nothing of it. But do photographs again until the Balloon Flying. In fact she is in a hot tion, when you use no comparison or course I needed to use it as a medium after at least four weeks of doing noth- Mutes exhibition two years ago air balloon flying over a green meadow. minimum information. I am fascinated to convey this particular work, The Ani- ing and furthermore not thinking at the Reykjavík Art Museum. So this is an image of a mental voyage. by this phenomenon. I try to use it and mals in Saigon, as it is a written book. about anything, I discovered a pile How do you see the Situations This is evident then to harness Language can of course be very useful of A4 sheets on my bedside table and today in relation to having taken in my new novel, it or discipline if you manage to surpass the loaded started to read. This was the draft for up photography again? The Animals “You see, I am it in my work. and often polluted meaning of words. my novel that I had long before printed Those works were very much cre- in Saigon. You not writing Rinse away the You can read poetry and prose that does out and put aside. The writing is really ated out of the notion of the private, go- enter your own non-essentials this in a successful way. But I wanted personal, bordering on the tasteless—I ing deep into what you feel. Not gather- inner reality and literature—I love without being specifically for this project to approach reveal so much—but I actually see that ing information laterally, but entering find company literature, but that too rational in the people in my book based on my as a quality. In my state of indifference I a single feeling and working with it in with things that that process. non-verbal experience from the arts. was lying in bed at home almost all day depth and coming up with something do not exist in is not what I am D u r - This required considerable patience, long and somehow started reading the that you would otherwise never really our physical re- doing. The same with ing the process for weeks I just stared into the eyes of a draft. It was amazing, because it was think of. In general terms, humanity ality. But they of writing The woman who cleaned up the place where as if I was downloading some informa- and society have used art as a mode may be just as photography, I am Animals in I lived. The people I met may have been tion onto the hard drive of my empty of expression where one and the same reliable. You see, not a photographer Saigon I lived poor and uneducated but certainly not computer. After four hours of reading manifestation may contain a complete I am not writ- as a kind of an unintelligent and of course we had I finally came back to myself and was paradox. You can express “day/night” or ing literature—I and my goal is not animal for ten much in common. my usual self again. Then I finally felt “yes/no” and “this way/the other” with love literature, to make a good months, a per- This is related to my experience the urge to see the video and there I complete assurance in the same work. I but that is not son just relying with hypnoses, some people in Mutes could see plainly how the hypnotist do not use logic to reach my goal, even what I am doing. photographic work.” on eye contact were hypnotized and I was hypnotized forgot to reintroduce me back into my though many artists that I like use log- The same with in the relation- myself on the occasion of my exhibition body after having sent Charles away. ic to enter a certain paradigm. For ex- photography, I ship with oth- of these works in Amsterdam recently. The traditional way is to make an effort ample, my brother Kristján. He works am not a photographer and my goal is ers, gestures, touching, walking in the of bringing people back after a session through all the logical steps and comes not to make a good photographic work. crowd and dancing. Then this person You mean to say that there is of hypnosis, to make sure that they are out on the other side with something It doesn’t really bother me if the picture turns into himself, to a reality that his subconsciously a mutual ground truly themselves afterwards. This part great. There are many ways available isn’t technically perfect and I am not fellow men do not see, where he finds for humans to communicate that was somehow overlooked in my case and I cannot say that one is better than aiming to create bad photographs ei- four other creatures. A horse that is a does not rely on our identities or and that resulted in my identity being the other; it’s just a matter of which ther. Just like the old Situations works, poet, a homosexual swan, a fourteen- intellect? As in when you fall in absent for weeks. doors you happen to have opened. Be- many of them are not that good as pho- year-old girl who is a philosopher and love? My brother Kristján, who was present sides, there are shifts in culture from tographs, some are even out of focus a seagull that doesn’t speak Icelan- This was part of my experiment in during the performance, later com- one period to the next and from one and others are overexposed, whatever. dic—the language in which the novel the show in Amsterdam. I went to see mented with a smile that this Charles place to the other. My attitude is similar to when you look is written. They are not complete fan- a hypnotist, one of the best in Holland couldn’t have been much of a connois- trough a family album; I look for what tasy; they reflect the reality of the life or at least very expensive one, to see if seur since he had never heard of the art- Have you revisited Situations is in the picture, more than what is on that this person was living at the time. I could undergo hypnosis at all. When ist Sigurður Guðmundsson. since the seventies? it. The journey that people went on, the You might call it unreal but for the one I remembered everything after our ses- Not in the sense that I have again place where an image is created, the experiencing it, me in this case, this sion, I thought that this was nothing There seems to be an interesting tuned into what occupied me at that people; I look through the picture. This is reality. These creatures carry differ- special but he said that I would require confusion between you wanting point in time, but these works have has always been a problem in my own ent traits and as it turns out they are a more serious in-depth approach to to expose your personal self, as been displayed in all my retrospectives. work because I am interested in the im- the molecules that make up the per- reach a state of full hypnosis. you attempt to do in your book, Still, I have never exhibited them in mediate experience. The photograph is son Sigurður Guðmundsson. For sure I insisted that he get rid of this Sig- and then to undergo a total loss the way I did in i8, not with so many of always a middle stage and of course a there are many more, but at the time of urður Guðmundsson out of this body of identity. them together in such a small space. In very important one. But what else can writing the book, these were the ones of mine and asked him to replace him I have also created very personal fact, I didn’t believe it would work out I do? Should I always have a crowd of that knocked on my door. There is a with a man or a woman who would performances and in relationship to but I was quite pleased with the out- people following me around for the im- multitude of “I” in every human being. be a connoisseur of contemporary art. those works I have sometimes said come. These are all so different state- mediate experience? This will always If you are willing to accept those char- This person, not knowing me, my work that through the utmost personal you ments but they really stand on their be a challenge. acters, you will find them to manifest nor anyone in my social surroundings, may find the best way to understand own. I am glad because I am really My new novel came immediately after themselves in very distinct ways. If you should enter the opening of my exhi- the general. You arrive at the macro bad at installing my own exhibitions; I Mutes and the two projects have much however deny this, they will never get bition and express his or her opinion through the micro. I have also put it have never been good at it, I just go on in common. I went to Vietnam where the possibility to exist and wither away. on every work in there. Right before this way; being an artist is like being creating one work and then the next. I I didn’t speak the language but I de- the opening, it took the hypnotist 75 a huge one-man private enterprise. am most pleased with the installation veloped an intense relationship with Did you approach the project of minutes to bring me into this state, Huge, because art can take anything of my work when someone else does it people around me through means of writing the book in a similar way something that should only take a few in—your choice of subject is limitless. while I am away and then I arrive just eye contact and gestures. This created as you did for example when you minutes and he introduced the fictional And private, because the access to this before the opening and everything is a complex but interesting relationship created Mutes? character, Charles. I have no memory everything is through one person—it is ready. that developed during my ten-month I guess you could say that, even of what happened next, I only know an intimate affair. This is how it doesn’t stay. I deleted the symbolic iconography though I try not to embark on a proj- this from what the gallery visitors told bother me at all if people call me narcis- You mentioned that Mutes was of cultural codes and went for some- ect with a specific concept in mind. I me afterwards and then later from the sistic; on the contrary, I find it an im- not so well received. What do thing more basic. But I must mention have a certain desire to see something video documentation. Charles entered portant quality because it helps me to you mean by unpopular, did you that this was not a scientific experi- through; I do not wish to come to a an already crowded opening and the look under the skin of the universe. get bad reviews? ment, I entered this project from an ar- conclusion in reply to a question or a guests knew that this was part of the I am actually very happy with those tistic point of view and that is where my dilemma, but to undertake the process exhibition. He ignored my friends and Do you have a feeling where one works. But okay, I cannot win the ap- interest lay in this experiment. Making as a wise animal. An animal that relies relatives and carefully analyzed all the of your alter egos will take you proval of everybody, not all of the time. this book, The Animals in Saigon, was on the senses more than on intellectual works in the show one by one. He came next? I’ve got plenty of time! Actually, I see absolutely meaningful to me. achievements. Intellect gets in the way up with options, depending on differ- At this moment I am completely no special quality in getting approval of this process; it is more inaccurate ent possible artistic intentions, saying empty, just like after Charles. I just from everyone. This was the first time Tell me about your decision of than the emotional scope as it relies on that if the artist intended to work with wait for something to happen and in I showed new photographs since the taking on this experiment, liv- language, which is incapable of mediat- this particular element the work fails the meantime I enjoy my emptiness. Situations in the seventies. I created ing without language and then ing anything in a straightforward way. but if another issue is the case then it You can see Sigurður Guðmundsson's works on the works on an impulse and in a some- to mediate that experience in a Language is by definition less accurate might work fine, etc. display at Hafnarborg, Hafnafirði, and Gleðivík, what manic state of mind, following book through language. than the life it describes. Two people, a As we had decided before, the hyp- Djúpivogur. More info available at www.i8.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 For further information on alternative cinema visit: www.bioparadis.is // www.kinoklubbur.com // www.riff.is 14

Films | Review Films | Theaters

Cinephiles Rejoice Summer is nice and all, with all its sunshine and what not. But there is something missing. Films in particular. Now the days are getting shorter and the sea- son of alternative cinema in Reykjavík starts again—thank the Lord.

Cinema Paradiso: Reopening of Regn- boginn “The movie’s main flaw is the insistent consensus that “collapse is good.” Were there The old Regnboginn cinema reopens with a new programme and a new name: no dissenting voices anywhere in Iceland? Perhaps the speakers in this film were simply Bió Paradís. This alternative cinema at pains to make a good impression on foreigners? ” concentrates on screening the latest in world cinema, classical/repertory cinema, documentaries, shorts and experimental films with a special focus on Ice- When Is Enough Enough? landic films. On the September 15, the spools of film start rolling again with a experienced recession. As the title them he was going into organic toma- and stayed under as a result of the big party and the screening of Backyard, Review suggests, this is first and foremost a to-growing. Twenty years later he’s still crisis. What about those who are still a music documentary featuring some of Christina Galvin movie with an optimistic message: take in the business, clearly loving it and suffering the effects and do not see a Reykjavík's hottest bands. Also scheduled for this fall is a French New Wave responsibility for what we’ve broken planning on branching into tropical way out? Those who are drinking them- retrospective and the programme “Cine- and move on. A well-meaning self-help fruits using water from a fish farm to selves into an early grave or who have Future of Hope is screened in ma Reykjavík”. Here is the place to enjoy decided to check out of life early as a Háskólabíó diktat, sure, but there’s truth in it. The water the plants! Iceland, we are told, and learn about the art of film. philosophy of sustainable living has to with its expertise in renewable energy permanent way of numbing the pain underpin everything we do — econom- science has a major role to play in the wrought by the crisis? The film did not Microcinema: Kino Klúbbur ics included. Rather than viewing eco- testing of new technologies. The coun- investigate the darker side and as a re- Rebecca Moran and Þóranna Björnsdót- nomic collapse as necessarily negative, try also stands at the forefront of this sult could be accused of denial of the tir from Kino Klúbbur try to reconnect That’s the burning question in The Fu- the general consensus among those in- type of education, the goal being to at- hardship in which many people still find the art scene and the film scene in Ice- ture of Hope, a new film about life in terviewed is that it presents an oppor- tract international students to its north themselves embroiled. land. Last year they started showing post-crash Iceland produced and di- tunity to bring about root and branch Atlantic shores and send them back experimental, short and documentary rected by British filmmakers, Heather reform of an entire society. As Kristín home as confident, creative leaders—a Irish gloom films in their “microcinema”. These Millard and Henry Bateman. The grub- Vala Ragnarsdóttir, Dean of School of catalyst for change and hope to move I’m from Ireland, a country that’s bang films are mostly written, directed, filmed by, greedy, every-man-for-himself- Engineering and Natural Sciences and beyond the oil era to the age of renew- slap in the middle of the worst econom- and edited by the same auteur. “It´s like the one-man-band kind of thing,” Rebec- culture that brought the country to its Sustainability Practitioner puts it, the able energy. “Anything’s Possible” is the ic recession the country’s seen since ca explains. The first screening of this knees has got to change—this is the world’s population is set to rise to 9 bil- Icelanders’ motto (at least according to the 1930s. The Irish don’t make an art of year’s series is Foggy Mountains Break this movie), and a physics professor hope. If ever they did. And certainly not resounding refrain of the documen- lion by 2050. Our current way of living Down More Than Non-Foggy Moun- tary that presents views on the crisis in the west is not sustainable. We have presents this scientifically by showing now. Ireland’s airwaves resound with tains by Jessie Stead, September 23 at from “ordinary folk” affected by the to move away from our dependence us the lush pink roses he grew in the gloom and doom stories. As in Iceland, Hafnarhúsið. The small gauge films will downturn as well as entrepreneurs, on oil and the short-term consumerist arctic climate of his very own garden. the vagaries of the weather have always also be shown at Bakkus' weekly movie academics and visionaries. As well as mentality that presumes the earth’s re- Change, innovation and sustainable been a favourite topic of complaint. Of night on Mondays, starting the Septem- tugging heartstrings and stirring the sources are limitless. With good plan- development constitute the movie’s late, however, recessionary gripes now ber 13 with The Baby, presented by film soul with moving imagery and rous- ning and single-minded focus, Iceland buzzwords, repeated as often as im- trump talk of “another wash-out Irish expert Sigtryggur Berg Sigmarsson. Be- ing soundtrack (by Ampop frontman, can be a model for sustainable develop- ages of the country’s scenic beauty and summer” as the preferred subject of sides the screenings, Kino Klúbbur will Biggi Hilmarsson), it is persuasive in its ment across the world, she says. “We’ve cute pictures of little chicks swimming public conversation. This film, with its start a film lab called Kino Kollective, presentation of opinion and ideas. How got to wake up to the fact that the age after mother ducks on calm lake water. triumphant message of hope and con- where ambitious film makers can attend Iceland can develop a more sustainable of cheap flights is about to end,” she The movie’s main flaw is the insistent tention that change will come through workshops and borrow 16mm cameras to encourage the local alternative film- way of living forms the movie’s theme warns. “Oil is running out.” consensus that “collapse is good.” cooperation and community spirit, making. and those interviewed speak in English, Were there no dissenting voices any- desperately needs to be shown back where in Iceland? Perhaps the speak- home. We Irish need to be shaken out indicating that this is a movie geared Sustainable thinking And of course: Reykjavík International primarily towards foreign audiences. The maxim “Eat local, think global” of- ers in this film were simply at pains to of our pathological clinging to cynicism. Film Festival Nevertheless, if the standing ovation fers a good summation of the model of make a good impression on foreigners? The Icelanders in the movie may come What more could a film buff ask for— following the premiere last Wednesday sustainability given expression in the At one point in the film an entrepreneur across as overly optimistic, but at least the opportunity to see one hundred in Reykjavík’s Háskólabío cinema was film. The benefits of joining the Slow who lost everything he owned in the in their hopeful state, however naive or films in ten days. This year’s RIFF will anything to go by, the natives were evi- Food Movement are much lauded— economic meltdown is shown pouring delusional, they’re passionate, commit- show documentaries and feature films dently profoundly moved by this analy- grow your own vegetables, eat organic over recent bank statements, clearly ted to their project and connected. That from all over the world. In the main cat- sis of the crisis in their homeland. and seasonal, make your own clothes, at his wits end. Applause and whinny- beats languishing in a state of fear and egory, New Visions, twelve new movies mend stuff rather than throw it away. ing cheers broke out in the auditorium paralysis any day. The Irish, like many from young filmmakers, are competing Universal message of hope Architects, carpenters, builders—quit when, laughing, he gives the finger to other citizens of the world, could do for the Golden Puffin Award and show While Iceland’s particular situation is whinging that you’ve no business and the banks. But there was no further al- well to learn from the Icelanders, por- their work to an international audience. The guest of honour is Jim Jarmusch. the subject of the movie, the lessons get off your asses and find something lusion to the devastation experienced trayed in this film as a people who hope are universal and applicable to all na- else to do. Enter the farmer who was by people on a personal level. We never as easily as they breathe. tions and communities that have ever laughed at by his mates when he told get to meet those who’ve gone under wieb ke wOLTER

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Your Emotions | Ask The Doctor

Ask Paola Psychologist Paola Cardenas answers your dilemmas

The Grapevine publishes a excuse to say no and a simple "no sorry, mayoral address by the co- not this time" is enough when you are not median turned politician and feeling up to the task. mayor of Reykjavík Jón Gnarr. HI Hostels Reykjavík His words got me thinking about his take I went to the hospital the other day on life and the whole question of exis- because I thought I was having a - your affordable quality bed tence. heart attack. I felt quite confused We’ll be here, to He wittily questions his own existence when I was told that there was nothing wrong with my heart and that this arrange the most and wonders whether he has always ex- might be all in my head. I went back exciting excursions at isted, never existed or if he in fact pres- Check out our home feeling quite embarrassed and website at the best price, and ently exists. The whole question of exis- confused about the whole thing. Can www.hostel.is offer you local advice tence is as old as humanity. For instance, you really have an imaginary heart at- on how to get the the French philosopher Descartes tried tack? most from your stay Reykjavík City Hostel to establish absolute certainty in his fa- It sounds to me as if you had a panic at- in this wonderful city. Reykjavík Downtown Hostel. mous reasoning: Cogito, ergo sum or “I tack and let me assure you that there is Stay at Reykjavík City think, therefore I am.” In simple words this nothing embarrassing about your experi- Hostel or Reykjavík statement implies that being cognitively ence. Panic attacks can happen to any- Downtown Hostel. aware of our inner dialogues is evidence one at any time. According to statistics, of our existence. From this logic we might one out of every 75 people will experience deduct that Jón Gnarr is indeed alive. panic attacks at one time in their lives. It However, I believe that even though is not strange that you felt as if you were Reykjavik’s mayor can sound a bit silly having a heart attack since the most com- sometimes he has a master plan in store mon panic attack symptoms are rapid for us, even if it is just making us smile. heartbeat, pounding heart or palpitations, Joking aside, here are my answers to your sweating, shaking, chest pain or discom- dilemmas. fort, nausea and dizziness among other symptoms. Panic attacks are unexpected I can't say no to people and this is re- surges of overwhelming fear that come ally affecting me. What can I do? without warning and without any appar- We can all relate to your situation in one ent reason. Panic attacks can be debilitat- way or another; being unable to say no ing and people who experience repetitive to our boss when she asks us to work attacks sometimes live in fear of another extra hours or to a friend who needs a attack and may avoid places where they helping hand. For some people it can be have previously had an attack. For some quite impossible to utter the simple two- people, fear takes over their lives to the letter word “no”. People in your situation extent that they even cannot leave their ENJOY are often afraid of losing friends or hurt- homes. Panic attacks are not dangerous, ing people if they say no to them. The in- but they can be a scary experience. I sug- ability to say “no” might even be causing gest you seek treatment if you continue AND RELAX you stress, anger and making you feel experiencing panic attacks. Additionally, 1919 restaurant offer a new and very used, which is a high price to pay for do- reading self-help materials and additional ing someone a favour. It might be helpful information on the subject might help exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere for you to do yourself a favour this time you prevent these attacks. Please keep in at a prime location. and treat yourself by taking time off to do 1919 mind that you will not go crazy and or die 5 course tasting menu: 5990,- RESTAURANT the things you enjoy and might have been from a panic attack. AND LOUNGE putting off for a while. It is important for you to realise that it is ok to say no once in Radisson Blu 1919 Hótel a while and that you are not doing anyone Pósthússtræti 2 101 Reykjavík +345 599 1050 a favour if it feels like an obligation. Please PolaCrdea a nas keep in mind though, you don’t need an sTAR5112 / John

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 Visit www.thestartupkids.com to follow Sesselja and Valgerður's adventures in movie making 16

Start | me up Examining the Start-up Culture On both sides of the Atlantic

Sesselja Vilhjálmsdóttir and Valgerður ferently from the ‘normal’ person to be US, and we did not make any plans for Halldórsdóttir are two young success- able to be successful in this field,” she coming home until we had something to ful entrepreneurs, currently in the midst says. Valgerður also mentions the im- show for it.” of making a film about their own kind: portance of culture: “The culture in San young successful entrepreneurs. “We Francisco very open to new ideas. There The Startup Kids are very interested in the start-up cul- is a tradition in place,” she explains. “We The movie websites lists all the persons ture and young entrepreneurs and we went to a café in Palo Alto and on ev- interviewed so far, and it is an impres- have been following this scene closely ery table around us, people were taking sive list of start-up royalty. “We did not since we started our own company meetings and pitching ideas. It was all get Mark Zuckenberg, that was our when we made the board game Heilas- you heard there.” goal. Or [blogger and Twitter founder] puni last year,” Sesselja explains. Ev Williams, that was an interview that Since receiving a grant from the EU The European Model was close to happening, but then his to make a documentary comparing the The two explain that based on their pre- wife gave birth, and he slipped through start-up culture in Europe and the US, liminary research for Europe, it seems our hands,” Valgerður says. “But apart the two have been visiting with the mov- the cultural differences may eventually from that, I think we have talked to most ers and the shakers to interview them turn out to be the question of financing. of the people we wanted to see.” about the key to a successful start-up. “The thing that surprised us a little is “We were a little surprised at how “We started filming in New York and that when we kept asking people state- willing people were to talk to us,” adds San Francisco in May, and next week we side how they financed their start-ups Sesselja. “Many of these companies are are going to Europe to meet with people and if it was difficult, most people said still in start-up mode, so they are eager in London, Stockholm and Berlin,” Val- that was the easy part. As soon as you to talk to the media, or anyone who can gerður says. have a good operational demo of the help them promote the company. Most The project is off to good beginning, product you can go out and find start of them were just young people like us, and the pair has interviews with some up capital. Investors in America are very and they were just happy to talk to other of the brightest minds from the success- open to financing new ideas, because young people about their interests. We ful start-up companies like WordPress, there as so many companies that have met a lot of people who were just start- Vimeo and Dropbox, already in the bag. been successful on the Internet, that no ing out, and were still running their com- “As soon as we got a foot in the door and one ever thought would be successful,” pany from their living room, which also got some of the heavy hitters to agree to Instead, people told them the important doubled as sleeping quarters and a din- an interview, they were able to point us thing was to have a good product and a ing area.” When we met the founders of Dropbox, they to others and make introductions, and workable demo, Sesselja explains, while Valgerður says that although San that made everything much easier,” Val- Valgerður adds: “In Europe, there seems Francisco is a large city, this is a very had” just moved in to a new office space, which was tight knit scene where everyone knows gerður continues. to more importance placed on having a humongous, and they only had staff in about half solid business plan.” everybody else. “We were invited to a their offices. And they had just bought this huge A Learning Opportunity party at someone’s house and there we “We eventually want to move our com- A headache for another day met everyone we had talked to and ev- dance machine off of eBay. pany into the software business, so With the project moving into the later eryone we still wanted to talk to.” Then this is a unique opportunity for us to be stages of production, are there any solid she adds: “But there was a big differ- able to ask some of the most successful plans for distribution in place? “That ence meeting people from a start-up people in the business how they did it,” is something we are keeping our eyes company in a bootstrap mode, operating Sesselja says, and Valgerður adds: “The open for just now. The target group for out of their homes, and then with some- movie is dedicated to comparing the this film is very Internet-based, so I think one from a company that has moved on start-up culture in Europe and the US. the film will eventually always end up to the expansion stage. These are young That is what we applied for the grant for. being distributed on the Internet, but we people in their early twenties and as We haven’t been to Europe to conduct would like to send it to a few film festi- soon as they got some money they were interviews yet, we are going there next vals as well. But right now, we are just buying all sorts of stuff. When we met week, so we don’t really have the com- focusing on getting the movie done; dis- the founders of Dropbox, they had just parison yet, but we can definitely see a tribution is a headache for another time. moved in to a new office space, which trend emerging from the interviews we But, we did have a nice discussion on was humongous, and they only had staff Words already have.“ the options for Internet distribution with in about half their offices. And they had Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Sesselja explains that the young en- the founder of Vimeo,” Sesselja answers. just bought this huge dance machine off trepreneurs they have talked to are all “You can’t plan too much ahead, if of eBay. Sesselja had a dance-off with Photography unusually energetic people and most of we had, I don’t think we would ever have [Drew Houston] the founder.” Hörður Sveinsson them seem to think a little outside the started this project,” says Valgerður. “I killed him,” Sesselja adds. box, “I think you have to think a little dif- “We just bought a one-way ticket to the

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 18

Music | Live Review

TRACK OF THE ISSUE

Download your free copy at grapevine.is

Happy Up Here TRACK OF THE ISSUE Arctic Rockers Nanook warm hearts at the Hairdoctor Nordic House Dagur Eitt Nordic House, Tuesday 31 August. hairdoctormusic

They had me at “Alluu!”. With a burst of freshness bassed, almost Dick Dale-esque 70’s beats, to all out Nanook’s brand of guitar-based rock doesn’t set Download at www.grapevine.is not seen since the early days of spearmint gum, the rock god guitar solos, Nanook provided a range of out to reinvent the wheel. It’s not über-cool and five Greenlanders that comprise Nanook, hopped, flavours that had turned mild mannered toe tapping it doesn’t push major musical boundaries, but its Being a hairdresser, a hipster AND a musical ingénue skipped and jumped their way into local hearts at a into a veritable foot stomp by the end of the night. not really trying to. Therein lies the charm of this is all in a days work for Reyjavík’s Hairdoctor. While packed auditorium in Reykjavik’s Nordic House last Greenlanders (very) young and old were out in genuinely disarming band. It seems all they want most of us would wilt at the end of a long days chop- Tuesday. force to support their new national hero’s, although to do is just get on stage, rock it out, and where ping and shaving, Hairdoctor still has energy to cre- Fronted by brothers Fredrik and Christian Elsne the group of children sprawled out on cushions up possible invite their audience to co-rock it out with ate his sugar coated musical styling’s for this weeks on guitars and vocals, the band, based in Nuuk, front may have been more excited about staying up them, should they feel so inclined. What’s ironic Track of the Issue “Dagur Eitt” (Day One) from his are currently touring Scandinavia with their debut past their bedtime than with the music itself. The however is that in doing so, Nanook’s refreshingly debut album “Wish You Were Hair”. Its one of those album “Seqinitta Qinngorpaatit” (Our Sun is Shining group have sold approximately 3,000 copies of their humble attitude towards their music and their afternoon uppers that makes us want to sway about on You). On this debut visit to Iceland, Nanook’s debut album in Greenland since it came out early audience does go some way towards re-inventing... the office and think of brightly coloured balloons. mix of old school rock-ability, heart warming lyrics, 2010. It’s a fairly substantial claim if you think about something. Whatever it is they’ve got, they’ve got it We’re even hoping that enough listens to this fuzzy and genuine old fashioned charm, had the audience it – how many new bands can boast that one in ten in spades. After all, a hundred people leaving a gig electro track by this issues rather follically challenged under their spell from the first bassy twang. From of the population has their album? with the goofiest smiles ever on their faces cant be commander in chief, Birkir, will be enough to inspire some hair growth this side of Christmas. EF head bobbing rock/pop sing-alongs, to heavy all that bad. - eimeart Fi zgerald

Music | CD Reviews

Rúnar Magnússon Markús and the Diversion Sessions Momentum Haffi Haff Options Now I Know Fixation At Rest Freak runarmagnusson Markus and the Diversion Sessions momentumtheband haffihaff Dirty, Evil, UNCLEAAAAN! Rougher than a badgers arse ... A lesson in athmosphere and dynamics Like, OMG! WTF is this shit?

You’ve got to hand it to the guys at Hjlóðklettar Markús Bjarnason used to be a member of a most On Fixation at Rest Momentum offer more athmo- Haffi Haff the man is probably a decent chap. records. The pack for Rúnar Magnusson’s latest rockingly brilliant band called Skátur. However sphere than all of the sky combined along with a However, Haffi Haff the stage character, with his release comes on a USB stick with stickers, films, Skátur had to end and everyone went their separate dozen LSD tabs of psychadelia and devastating slabs overbearing, hypersexual “you can’t handle me. I’m free noise tracks, a bar of soap (?) and pictures of ways into the ether. of wicked heaviness. The tracks amble and trudge on the edge of human experience” persona is as a person that can only be described as Harry Potter Now Markús is back with a debut album of sorts at a slovenly pace whilst enthralling the listener and preposterous as he is tiresome. from his Hitler Youth days. and it’s pretty much the polar opposite of what he’s immersing him completely in the aural experience. On his album ‘Freak’, he comes across as a But the main focus is on two tracks. The first done before. Gone are the rock freakouts and in its The songs , for the most part, are long and epic in walking fuck. He “Likes it rough,” “whips and chains track, ‘Slowly Inhabits a Body’, contains a harrowing place is just the barest of acoustic guitar and his scope and some sport such memorable choruses don’t scare him.” He “gets what he wants,” and black metal drone laced with medieval harpsichord voice. that the listener finds himself humming them well af- “wants you to keep him satisfied.” And that’s just samples and distorted pagan rhythms. It conjures up The first track ‘Stay’ has an interesting Lo-fi ter the following track starts. The sound production the first three songs. Oh yeah, and “he’s sooooo images of plague ridden monks trudging in the snow groove with a basic drum pattern and “Now I Know” is flawless and clear, yet massive. The musicianship talented.” Glad we got that sorted. to a witch burning at Þingvellir. The second track, has a pleasing melodic feel. But from here on in, the is, as always, stellar, and the only negative aspect And the music (mostly written by songwrit- ‘The Heathen Harp - A Pärt For The Dreamachine’, quality of both the songs and recording go severely of the affair is that with the band’s move away from ing team StopWaitGo)—with its overreliance on is alas not as brutal and doesn´t really go anywhere, downhill. I understand it’s supposed to be lo-fi, but hyper speed extreme metal, their ace in the hole- autotune, tinny synth and trumpet samples and but does evoke cinematic dystopias such as Blade that doesn´t mean reel off the first thing that comes the world classs drummer Kristján- is given less pedestrian beats—is oddly sterile and lacking in juicy Runner and has its own oppressive atmosphere. into your head after your breakfast Cheerios. I´m opportunity to show off his massive chops. wetness, the opposite of the supposed hedonism in Options is a black and evil release and is not sure better is to come, but these songs needed a Bottom line: A welcome lesson in athmosphere the lyrics. suitable for parties, children or Hafdis Huld fans, lest LOT more work before they passed muster ... and dynamics which others might do well to ob- ‘Control’ does bubble with energy, and ‘Give Me they keel over and die from the bleakness of it all. - bob cluness serve. Sexy’ could pass for a Familjen B-side. But only a Are we sure this guy isn´t Finnish? - bogi bjarnason 17-year old riddled with Chlamydia would think this - bob cluness album is decadent. - bob cluness

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tel.: +354 562 4200 e-mail: [email protected] Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] web: www.eagleair.is www.visitreykjavik.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 14 — 2010 Simon Iddols Blogs at www.simoniddol.com and www.audioporncentral.com You Are in Control conference, Reykjavík – October 1-2. www.youareincontrol.is 19

Music | Conference Mashup The Volume!

If you have had any interest in pop culture truly inspiring. I love the intensity and the I hope to be an ambassador for Mashup and/or the internet over the last decade, endless creativity of Mashups. There are culture, as well as underground music on then you’ll be aware of the phenomenon no limits. the internet. The mainstream music busi- known as the ‘Mashup’, the taking of Sometimes it’s easier to make a track ness is in chaos right now and they’re two different tracks and ‘mashing’ them from scratch. With a track, you have the trying to work in ways that aren’t helping together to create a new and different elements in your head and you just lay it them, while going ‘The bloggers and the sounding song. Simon Iddol is the moni- down. With a mashup, you have a part of mashup artists are ruining our business!’ ker of one of the best known exponents of one track that you love, but you’re con- But these are exciting times with the ease the genre. As well as DJ’ing and curating stantly searching for something that fits with which you can start creating tracks the WHA!? mashup compilation series, he in with the key, the tempo, and the flow to and get them out to the world, and we runs the mashup blog Audioporn Central. make it better. want to embrace that. He will be attending this year’s ‘You Are In Control’ digital media conference to dis- Now with the issue of using tracks What do you see as the future of digi- cuss the role of copyright in music. and copyright. It is very much a gray tal music and the internet in general? area isn’t it? I have a clear idea of what happening as Hello Simon. You’re known as a DJ Well ... the easiest and clearest way to say it happens with me every day. New tech- who specialises in ‘Mashup’ tracks. it is that mashups are illegal. But there is nologies and playing formats are coming How did it all start off for you? a term called ‘Use with Goodwill’, mean- out all the time while sites like the hype That’s an interesting story. I was involved ing if you create a mashup with old tracks, machine are making music celebrities in in the Hungarian music scene as a DJ and you are respectful and don’t seek to make their own right. We have the technology, manager for many years. But I became money off it, while crediting and linking the creativity and the desire. All we need fed up with the music scene at the new back to the original tracks. We always say is to create the right atmosphere and le- millennium and I didn’t listen to any new ‘Hey, if you like our mashups go and buy gal framework for this to flourish. Some music for about 5 years. It was a very deep the original tracks’ record companies are embracing this and emotional crisis for me and it was like ‘OK, In your experience, what has been the they will be fine but I think that companies I’ll go and do something else instead’. attitude of the record companies to who don’t get on board with this ethos will But in 2005, I came across a website the culture of mashups? start to wither and die off. where a producer was creating these It depends up the labels themselves. mashup tracks. His name was DJ Ear- Mashups are now extremely popular and Will you be doing any performing worm, one of the best mashup producers they’re often used a viral marketing tool while you are here in Iceland? in the world. I listened to his tracks and by some labels. Some labels even come Well, I will be spending a long weekend as a DJ and producer I was truly amazed to us and say ‘Hey can you make a mash- here as part of the conference, but I hope by his work. I went ‘Wow! What is he do- up of these tracks?’ And if you create a to stay longer and perhaps perform during? How is he doing that?’ It was a very track with goodwill and it is good, then ing Iceland Airwaves. I love Icelandic mu- strong inspiration and from that point I the labels are generally appreciative of it. sic and at the moment I’m working on a didn’t think of doing anything else. But if you have a producer that isn’t play- special mashup using Icelandic artists, ing by the rules and making tracks, selling but I can’t divulge any more info until the What is it about mashups and the them and using dirty tricks, then record conference itself. It’s going to be some culture that you think are so vital, companies don’t like that and this creates special ear candy! as opposed to creating a track from problems. The mashup scene is against scratch? doing this sort of thing. It’s very easy to create a simple mashup and there are loads of bad mashups out Now you’re coming to Iceland as part there. But the art in creating something of the ‘You Are In control’ confer- new from something old and making it ence. What message are you hoping sound as good with that ‘Wow’ effect is to bring to the audience? bob cLUness

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Travel | Þórshöfn

Things To Do In Þórshöfn The Grapevine visits he Icelandic Riviera for 24 hours

10:30 | Te h eAGLE has landed tion, the trip was already worth it—and the photog- Words Looking out of the window, the shadow of our air- rapher had filled his first memory card. Wiebke Walter plane is shrinking. Below us is Þorshöfn, a little gathering of houses surrounded by uninhabited 11:00 | S tROLLIng around down town Photography pampas and the endless ocean. It is not even noon, As the only passengers getting off the plane in Hvalreki but we've already been on quite a trip. Early this Þorshöfn, we walked the fifteen minutes hike into morning we took our first flight of the day from town, seeing only a couple of horses and a man on Reykjavík to Akureyri. Once there, we changed a tractor along the way. Arriving “down town” we from a mid-sized plane to a smaller one (red and were greeted by the pleasant smell of the local fish very shiny). After the co-pilot explained the security factory. We counted three men chatting in front of instructions—not through a intercom, just by turn- the post station, a white car with two young boys We have met ten souls of the Þórshöfn ing around in his seat—we and the other five pas- driving around and a few men repairing boats and sengers took off. Our route was a triangle between working at the harbour. So far, we have met ten population” so far—390 more to go. Akureyri, Vopnafjörður and Þorshöfn. In perfect souls from Þorshöfn—only 390 more to go. sunny weather we found ourselves on a breathtak- ing sightseeing tour. Beneath us was the beautiful 11:30 | Paithi no w a view fjord of Eyjafjörður, surrounded by majestic moun- From the outside, our accommodation looked like a tains with white spots of snow on their flat hilltops. regular house. We missed it and walked by at first, We flew over Mývatn, the sublime Dettifoss and the but on our way back we noticed the Name “Hótel canyon of Jökulsá á Fjöllum River. By our third flight Jórvik” written on the wall. The style of the inscrip- of the day from Vopnafjörður to our final destina- tion and also the slightly run-down look of the place

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Travel | Þórshöfn

suggested that it had not been renewed since the found fresh local clams on the menu, which we eighties. The Australian caretaker let us (his only supplemented with an order of eggs from the black guests) in the house, located directly by the sea. seabird, collected at Rauðanes, the place we had We spent half an hour playing the out-of-tune piano just come from. The eggs tasted extraordinary fresh in the living room, which provided a fantastic view and the shell—turquoise with patterns—looked like of the surroundings through a large window, and works of modern art. We could have stayed at Eyrin inspecting the fabulous design of the bathroom for beer and a game of pool or played the lobster (green tiles with golden fish head shaped towel slot machine, but something else was tempting us racks) and flicking through the selection of French even more—the peninsula Langanes. cookbooks and Mandarin novels next to the fire- place. 20:00 | T fLoUR o anganes The Langanes peninsula used to be inhabited by 13:00 | Sunt n ing Rauðanes fisherman, but depleting fisheries saw the popu- After chatting with a bus driver who didn't speak lation dwindle. Now, bit-by-bit, life is returning to any English (our Icelandic is poor at best), we ar- Langanes in the form of tourists and artists, which rived at the next attraction of the day, 30 km north Miriam, the owner of Langanes Farm Art Hostel, of Þorshöfn. We started to walk the 7 km long hiking Ytra Lón, attempts to attract to the place. The hos- trail on Rauðanes peninsula in bright sunshine and tel expanded its bed capacity from sixteen to sixty light breeze. The trail took us through beautiful sur- beds and offers an exhibition space. rounding of blueberries, crowberries, moss, grass The beautiful orange lining between the ocean and heather, and we were overwhelmed when we and the sky kept getting thinner and thinner, and found ourselves standing on the top of a massive we noticed the next surprise of this eventful day: cliff with the ocean below us and sea birds playing northern lights. After leaving the Hostel, we hooked in the wind. Following the hiking trail we passed up with Halldóra Gunnarsdóttir, culture and tour- by caves, arcs and other impressive basalt forma- ism officer for the Langanes area. She showed tions. We could hardly wait to get around the next us to a 130-years old church and an old rectory. bend to take a look of the next amazing jewel lying This rebuilt stone house from the late 19th century beyond. The cliff Gluggur, with its spectacular arc serves as the museum of Sauðanes, dedicated to and near perfect symmetry, almost looks like a gate the showing how people lived in this area more to a medieval castle. We could have hiked around than hundred years ago. Northern lights above us, sublime Rauðanes forever—with no one around but goose and swans cackling and a competent local the birds and us, and the sound of waves breaking showing us around, Langanes showed off at its on the various stone formations in the backdrop. best. We returned to the patio of Hótel Jórvik, over- But, time waits for no man, and we had to get going. looking the calm ocean, the crescent moon surrounded by uncountable stars and aurora borealis 16:00 | LstH o iGHWAY dancing all around. Words fail me... Lacking a subway, or other forms of public trans- portation, we decided to hitchhike back into town. 10:30 | T oiME t sAY goodbye It was not as easy as we had hoped. Rides are hard Sitting in the sun and enjoying my morning coffee, to catch when there were no cars passing by. We it feels like I am at the Icelandic Riviera. This trip felt kept on walking on the middle of the paved road to- a lot longer than just one day, there was so much wards Þorshöfn, hoping for a ride. The few cars that to do, and we tried to do it all. Next time we'll visit passed were either fully packed or totally ignored Þorshöfn in winter with more time on our hands, us—except the one who sped up and almost killed to experience another side of this fishing village. us. After nearly two hours of desperate thumb lift- ing, we got lucky. Lina, a driving teacher, picked us up and gave us the local viewpoint on fishing, tour- ism and car driving. We reached town three minutes past six, three minutes too late to buy beer at the local Vínbúðin.

18:30 | Dnrt in e a Eyrin For dinner, we went to Eyrin, a restaurant and bar down by the harbour next to the fish factory. We

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Literature | Interview Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Making Perfect Sense Grand Theft Literature Poetry is the art of the illogical, or even anti-intellectual, performed with the The subculture of pen-scrawling bookworms, found in a trash can near you tools of logic and intellectual zealotry: language. Poetry is an invoker of feeling, or more correctly, perhaps, sensation and/or experience—while simultaneously being a way of thinking, of “catching yourself thinking” and “noticing what As the Icelandic lit scene gears up to the cover this was a bad piece of literature. It looked “Since then the book has traveled you notice” as Allen Ginsberg called it. Poetry is the shine as the guests of honor at the Frankfurt like the perfect candidate to be turned into logically/illogically logical/illogical. Its job is to es- Book Fair on October 12–16, 2011, Ingi Björn a whole new work of art by using a pen and striking around Reykjavík, accompanied cape our grasp as we try to pin it down, to defy the Guðnason, a writer who spends his out the whole sentences and paragraphs. by a green pen, from one person defying of defying definition. It tries to look and act days working at the Western fjords University, The title Á bláþræði (On the edge) as if it were making sense, while basking in its own is co-editing Fict.is, a new literary site to became Á bláþræði = Áræði (Determination). to another and has even gone as glorious idiocy behind our backs. get the alternative literary scene noticed. Since then the book has traveled around Reykja- far as the West Fjörds. Sometimes Like the Zen monks who threw shoes at each vík, accompanied by a green pen, from one other attempting to use the shock and surprise of Fictitious Island features the work person to another and has even the book has turned up in unlikely the counter-intellectual as a method to induce a di- of 27 up-and-coming young Icelandic fiction writ- gone as far as the West Fjörds. Sometimes the book places: Someone has picked it up and vine state of knowing—or getting beyond knowing, ers—from Haukur Már Helgason, who founded has turned up in unlikely places: or whatever it was and is Zen monks want to achieve the Nýhil poets collective, to Ásgeir H. Ingólfsson, a Someone has picked it up and started striking away. started striking away. The book has with their silly antics—poetry aims to jolt the intel- novelist and culture reporter who is working The book has had a life of its own on the had a life of its own on the road, so lectual, emotional, cognitive and memory senses by on a book of eerie, grim fairytales. road, so to speak. presenting texts that are counter intuitive and strive Ingi Björn took some time to talk to the Grape- to speak.” against everything that is coherent. This doesn’t only vine about how some in this very tightly-knit scene Can anyone contribute? go for the “mad” poetry of bohemians, from Rimbaud crossed paths—or pages—and were brought We don’t have any rules about who can contribute. to Hugo Ball to the beatniks—it also goes for the so- together through, of all things, a stolen book found Some have been invited called “disciplined” poetry of lawyers and bankers in the trash cans of the Reykjavík City Library. Áræði, to contribute while others have asked to partake like TS Eliot and Wallace Stevens, whose powerful the book in question, is an ongoing and some have just done it while the It all started as a statement about imagery is constructed to jolt, no less than Hugo collaboration between 13 young visual artists and book was lying around. The group of people is book theft, correct? But it seems to have taken Ball’s glossolalia or Rimbaud’s wilder associations. poets in Iceland, and growing, which quite diverse, not only poets and visual a life of its own. The poetry may be disciplined, but it is not created to has become a goldmine in the un- artists but also other creative people, for example. Well it wasn’t really a statement form coherent thoughts—neither from the poets and derground Icelandic alternative literary scene. I wouldn’t label myself as a about the book theft. But the book theft was to the text, nor from the text and to the readers. poet and certainly not a visual artist since my back- what initiated the whole thing. But in a I’m writing this returning from lecturing and per- What is Áræði? ground is in literary theory. way I guess the work is a statement. forming at a seminar on sound poetry in Kuopio, Well, I guess it all began when a friend was mov- It’s an awful thought that a library throws books Finland, and as I sit here I become more and more ing in 2006. He had just finished unpacking Why do you have this policy away! And in the bunch there were amazed at the fact that people, in general, and me, all the cardboard boxes he had used for where everyone uses the same or similar kind popular books by well es- in particular, make a living—however meagre it may his stuff and desperately needed to of pen to mark it up? Is it marked up sequen- tablished authors. The book we chose was one be—from what is best understood as behaving like get rid of them. This was in the vicinity tially, or randomly? that is long forgotten, a book that never received idiots on stage (while explaining our behaviour in of the City Library in Reykjavík, and he saw some The whole process of the book is pretty flexible and any attention, and is finally disregarded more intellectual terms in essays in-between our garbage containers outside it. free, people do what they want, but and thrown away by the library, an establishment “fits”). When he opened one of the containers a mountain at the same time the form is very strict. You are com- that should be a safe haven for books. I A large portion of my performance, for instance, of books appeared! This pletely free to create whatever you want, guess one can read some sort of a was shouting a collage of the poetry of a 17th cen- guy is a great book lover, so instead of throwing away but at the same time there are a great deal statement out of this. And in a sense we are reviving tury Icelandic lunatic; famous sound poet Leevi Leh- to sang (in a “melodically deconstructive manner”, the boxes, he filled them up with these of restrictions since you only have certain words in the book, although we are creating a completely new which in academic dialect means “very out of tune”) disregarded library books and brought the boxes full a certain order to chose from, plus, the grammar work of art that as you said has taken a life of its own. the lyrics of classical Finnish poets—including Paavo back home. restricts you. The choice Havikko and Eino Leino—to the music of the Rolling of the pen was a way to add to these restrictions and Has it ever left Iceland? And whose hands is it Stones and other American rock artists; while Cia Why won’t you tell me who actually stole the a way to create some discipline in the in now? Rinne read alphabetized poetry in French; and Miia book from the library’s trash? (Do they actually process. No it hasn’t left the country yet, at least Toivio and Marko Niemi read Miia’s work in an ap- care?) I guess we also liked how it looked. We also made not to my knowledge. But who knows? It’s been a parently random chorus, chopping up the words into Well this was stealing, even though it some additional rules, for example that long process, since we started the bits in improvisational inspiration. was stealing trash. But I guess our friend wouldn’t it is done sequentially, that is one chapter after the summer 2006. That’s a long time and Now, don’t get me wrong—I had a blast, and so mind us telling who he is. But it doesn’t other, so you can’t choose a chapter to work with, it is quite possible that someone took it seems did the audience. They laughed, cheered, really matter does it? you just get the next one. it out of the country during that time. But to my clapped and came up and thanked us afterwards. You are also not allowed to change the cases of the knowledge it’s at least traveled all over And they weren’t even that drunk. But that doesn’t Anyways. Since you stole loads of words, or move words between lines Reykjavík city and to the West Fjörds of Iceland. It’s decrease my surprise in the least. If anything, I’m even more surprised that avant-garde poetry is gen- books that day, why this one? or pages. This can create some interesting now in the hands of one erally something people enjoy. It’s mind-boggling. It’s hard to say. I guess it just caught our atten- restrictions since Icelandic is a pretty complicated of the first persons to contribute to it, Ólafur Þóra- Maybe I am still trying (in vain) to “understand” tion. It’s sometimes said that you should never judge language grammatically with rinsson, who lives in Akureyri poetry—which is a no-no, poetry may not be under- a book by its cover, but that is four cases. The funny thing is that in the north. He may have sent it on its way to some- stood, you shouldn’t try. Maybe I’m just trying to get exactly what we did. The cover was kind of sleazy people that came to the book without knowing these one else by now. at why it fascinates me so much. And then perhaps, with a photograph of a lightly dressed woman in red restrictions or rules adhered to them more or as the cliché about good humour goes, the magic turning her back at the viewer and a man’s less. But of course people bend the rules or break dies if you manage to explain it. Which doesn’t mean NadjaSyej a hand is grabbing her ass. So judging by them at times, which is fine. we can’t talk about it. It just means we should be sure to never make perfect sense while doing so.

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Pgea 6 I have very little faith in the ability of EU officials to prevent the ethnic cleansing of Muslims in Europe, but I sincerely hope they prove me wrong. Paul Nikolov ponders on religious tolerance.

Pgea 10 It's like looking at a patient haemorrhaging blood from his jugular and the doctors are trying to pick out the right colour band aid to cover the paper cut on his thumb. Before "foreign investment racism" escalates, Victor Blaer tries to explain the other side of the story.

Pgea 12 I do not wish to come to a conclusion in reply to a question or a dilemma, but to undertake the process as a wise animal. An animal that relies on the senses more than on intellectual achievements. Artist Sigurður Guðmundsson explains the artistic nature.

Pgea 14 The film did not investigate the darker side and as a result could be accused of denial of the hardship in which many people still find themselves embroiled. Christina Galvin watched the Future of Hope.

Pgea 15 I hope to be an ambassador for Mashup culture, as well as underground music on the internet. Simon Iddol makes illeagal music, albeit, with good will.

Pgea 22 Now, don’t get me wrong—I had a blast, and so it seems did the audience. They laughed, cheered, clapped and came up and thanked us afterwards. And they weren’t even that drunk. Poet Eiríkur Örn Norðahl is feeling quite chuffed with himself. Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland Issue 14 - 2010 www.grapevine.is

Mel Ramos exhibition Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhús September 18 - November 7 Free admission MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN SEPTEMBER

Prescribing with love Dubliner Prikið 22:00 Live music. Movie: The Icelandic Dream starring Jón music for your live Faktorý Gnarr. Free. experience 23:00 Gordon Riots & guests. DJ B- 15 Ruff on the first floor. |WED Háskólabíó 21:00 Kristján Kristjánsson. Austur How to use the listings Havarí Live jazz groove. Venues are listed alphabetically by day. 14:00 Kimi Records Birthday Party with Bakkus For complete listings and detailed information Nolo, Reykjavík! and Morðingjarnir. 22:00 Seth & Karel. on venues visit www.grapevine.is Kaffibarinn Bió Paradís 22:00 Alfons X. Reopening of the old Regnboginn P Cinema. Filmscrening: Backyard. Party. 10 22:00 Daddi Disco & Hlynur. Café Oliver |FRI Prikið JJ Group. Café Rosenberg Apótek 22:00 Danni Deluxe and Prikpartý. 21:00 Defect. Record release concert. 22:00 DJ Áki. Thorvaldsen 1500 ISK. Astur 22:00 Live DJ. 22:00 DJ Simon. Vegamót Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music & pop-quiz. B5 22:00 DJ Atli & Erpur. 22:00 Live DJ. Venue Dubliner 22:00 Live music. Bakkus TWIN TOWERS: DJ KGB & DJ Kári. 22:00 DJ KGB. English Pub 22:00 Live music. Café Oliver 12 22:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynjar |sun Faktorý 22:00 Forgotten Lores. Már. Kaffitár café Café Rosenberg Bakkus . 20:00 Tango Milonga. Vinir Dóra. Live Music. 21:00 Svavar Knútur Kaffi Zimsen Celtic Cross Café Oliver Playday. Offers at the bar when the bell 22:00 Live music. Live music. rings. Den Danske Kro Café Rosenberg 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. Hreindís Ylfa - farewell concert. Prikið Beer Offers - Buy large for 700 ISK and Dubliner Den Danske Kro small beer comes free! 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Drink offer. Venue English Pub English Pub 21:00 ESN night. 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Faktorý Prikið 23:00 Útidúr & guests. DJ Valbrá on 22:00 Hangover Film Night. Film: Cad- 16 the first floor. dyshack. Free popcorn |THU

Frumleikhúsið, Kopavogur B5 20:00 Klassart, Survival, Reason To 13 22:00 Troubadours Sjonni & Hreimur. Believe and Honor. Concert to support |MON Bakkus children with cancer. 1000 ISK. Bakkus 22:00 Two Step Horror. Háskólabíó 21:00 Movie Night. Sigtryggur Berg Bar Dillon 19:30 The Iceland Symphony Orches- Sigmarsson presents The Baby (Ted 22:00 Red Square Rokk. tra. 3900/3400 ISK. Post, 1973). Café Oliver Kaffibarinn Balthazar 22:00 Ingó Weathergod. 22:00 DJ Kári. Tango Practica. Café Rosenberg P Café Oliver 21:00 A Band on Stage. Live music. 22:00 Daddi Disco & Hlynur. Margarita Monday. 2 for 1 margarita 1000 ISK. Prikið & live music by Raggi Troubadour. Café Tómas 22:00 Franz and guest Mr Moonshine. Café Rosenberg 22:00 Troubadour. Kjarvalsstaðir Hvönn Vocal Trio. Den Danske Kro 12:15 Tríó of Reykjavik Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music. Music of Beethoven, Squire, Jórunn 22:00 Live music. Dubliner Viðar and more. Dubliner 22:00 Live music. Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live music. English Pub 22:00 Live DJ. English Pub 22:00 Live music. Vagmót 22:00 Live music. Faktorý 22:00 DJ Jónas. Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 Lára & guests. Venue Best Friends Day. Beer offer. Háskólabíó 21:00 Nóra, Bob, Fukaisha - DJ Fox. Prikið 19:30 Icelandic Symphony Orchestra 22:00 Live DJ. Red wine and cheese for playes Mahler and Strauss. 11 two 1000 ISK. 3900/3400 ISK. |SAT Sólon Hemmi & Valdi Salsa dancing night. 15:00 Chill out acoustic session with Apótek Svavar Knútur. Free. 22:00 DJ Áki. Hressó Austur 14 22:00 Troubadours. 22:00 DJ Jónas. |TUE Kaffibarinn B5 Bakkus 22:00 Alfons X. 22:00 DJ Leifur. 22:00 DJ Category. Kaffi Zimsen Bakkus Café Oliver Ólafsvaka. Beer offer. 22:00 DJ Benson is FANTASTIC! Live karaoke night. Prikið Café Oliver Café Rosenberg 22:00 Thord on accordion 22:00 Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynjar Ensemble Úngút. Live Jazz. 23:00 DJ Krusa. Már. Den Danske Kro Extra large beer 1000 ISK. Café Rosenberg 22:00 Live music and beer bingo. Vinir Dóra. Live Music. Salurinn Dubliner 20:00 Ómar's birthday show. Celtic Cross 22:00 Live music. Singer and comedian celebrates his 50 22:00 Live music. English Pub years on stage. Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night.

Music & Entertainment | Venue finder

22:30 Lomas special event. 22:00 DJ Hannes. Apótek Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 DJ Áki. Playday. Offers at the bar when the bell Austur 19 |sun rings. 22:00 DJ Jónas. Kaffitár Café B5 Café Oliver 20:00 Tango Milonga. 22:00 DJ Leifur. 22:00 Live music. Nasa Bakkus Celtic Cross 21:00 Amiina with guests Sing Fang 22:00 DJ Öfull. 22:00 Live music. Bous. Album Launch. 1200 ISK. Café Oliver Den Danske Kro Prikið Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynjar Már. 22:00 Live music. Drink offer. DJ Addi Intro. Beer offer. Café Rosenberg Dubliner Venue Ljótu Hálvitarnir (Ugly Idiots). Live 22:00 Live music. Live Concert or DJ -TBA. folk music. English Pub Celtic Cross 22:00 Live music. 23 22:00 Live music. Kjarvalsstaðir |THU Den Danske Kro 20:00 Elektra Ensemble. Trios for flute, 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. cello and piano. B5 Dubliner Prikið 22:00 Troubadours Sjonni & Vignir. 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Hangover Film Night. Film: Bakkus English Pub Videogramma. Free popcorn. 22:00 DJ Frosti Gringo. 22:00 Live music. Salurinn Bar Dillon Faktorý 20:00 Ómar's birthday show. 22:00 Red Square Rokk. 19:30 Fátæka leikahúsið. Icelandic Singer and comedian celebrates his 50 Café Oliver theatre. years on stage. 22:00 Ingó Weathergod. 23:00 Tamarin & guests. Café Rosenberg Kaffibarinn Blues Band Feriegheit. 22:00 Maggi Leo. Live DJ. 20 |MOn Café Tómas P 22:00 Troubadour. 22:00 Daddi Disco & Hlynur. Live DJ. Bakkus Den Danske Kro Prikið 21:00 Movie Night. Presented by Gunnar 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Breakbeat party with guests. Eggertsson. Dubliner Salurinn Balthazar 22:00 Live music. 20:00 Ómar's birthday show. Tango Practica. English Pub Singer and comedian celebrates his 50 Café Oliver 22:00 Live music. years on stage. Margarita Monday. 2 for 1 margarita & Faktorý Thorvaldsen live music by Raggi Troubadour. 22:00 Tonik & Ljósvaki. 22:00 Live DJ. Café Rosenberg Háskólabíó Vagamót Ösp, Hildur & band. 50ies and 60ies 19:30 Icelandic Symphony Orchestra. 22:00 DJ Simon. jazz. Faust plays Stravinsky. 3900/3400 ISK. Venue Den Danske Kro Hemmi & Valdi Weirdcore : Biogen, Ruxpin, 22:00 Live music. 15:00 Chill out acoustic session. Futuregrapher,Fu Kaisha and DJ’s. Dubliner Live music. Free. 22:00 Live music. Hressó 18 English Pub 22:00 Troubadours. |SAT 22:00 Live music. Kaffibarinn Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 TBA. Live DJ. Apótek Best Friend Day. Beer offer. Kaffi Zimsen 22:00 DJ Áki. Prikið Ólafsvaka. Beer offer. Austur 21:00 DJ Alli. Prikið 22:00 DJ Simon. Sólon Coxbutterkvöld. Live music. B5 Salsa dancing night. Vagamót 22:00 DJ Jónas. 22:00 DJ Simon. Bakkus Venue 22:00 Hunk of a Man. Live DJ. 21 |TUE Live Concert or DJ -TBA. Café Oliver Girls Night. DJ Maggi & Brynjar Már. Café Oliver Café Rosenberg Live karaoke night. Græðablóð. Live music. Café Rosenberg ONGOING Celtic Cross Thin Jim and the Castaways. 22:00 Live music. Live jazz music. Classical Concert Company Den Danske Kro Den Danske Kro Concerts with classical Icelandic music 22:00 Live music. Sing-along night. 22:00 Live music & beer bingo. every night at 20:30 Dubliner Dubliner Grandagarður 11 Admission: ISK 2900 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. English Pub English Pub Kaffi Reykjavík 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Comedy show everyday at at 18:00 Faktorý Prikið Vesturgata 2 Admission: ISK 2200. Varsjárbanlagið. DJ Biggi Maus on 22:00 Danni Deluxe. Beer at 390 and the first floor. 390 shots on tables that sit four or more. Havarí 16:00 Rökkurró.Concert. Kaffibarinn 22 |WED 22:00 Pabbahelgi #6 Gísli Galdur & Benni B Ruff. Austur P Live jazz groove. 22:00 Daddi Disco & Hlynur. Live DJ. Bakkus Prikið 22:00 DJ Cool in the Pool. 22:00 Prikiðparty. Café Oliver JJ Group playing.

Amiina Album Release Concert 22 Solving the musical riddle Sep NASA, 20:30, 1200 ISK

Nasa is set to be all a-glow on this sparkly night of music boxes, kalimbas, saws and other musical magic as one of Iceland’s finest exports, Amiina, take to the stage to celebrate the launch of their second full-length album, Puzzle. On the back of tour dates in the UK and Ireland, Amiina make the trip home to perform a set of brand new tracks for all of us eager beavers, with support from the superbly eclectic Sing Fang Bous. With a slightly more rugged sound than previously on Kurr, perhaps due to the recent testosterone injections in the form of Magnús Trygvason Eliassen and Kippi Kaninus, it’s the perfect opportunity to check out Amiina’s new sound before their Airwaves appearance in October. It’s gonna be cosier than a polar bear in a Lopapeysa. EF Music | Iceland Airwaves Six Weeks Until Airwaves!

Summer is over and school is back in in Reykjavík you could imagine to the The Antlers, Apparat Organ Quartet, session, which means the party is basically power of ten, five nights in a row. No Moderat, Slagsmålsklubben, Seabear - over. Well, not really, it’s just sleep. the list goes on. Up until the festival, we on a much needed hiatus before the The real fun of course is the music will be bringing you two interviews per biggest, wildest, messiest and most and this year’s line-up, booked under issue with Airwaves artists (one foreign drunken five-day party of the year: the the new festival management of Grímur and one local!) so you can get all the infamous Iceland Airwaves festival. Atlason and the Iceland Music Export dirt on the bands you love and find out It’s essentially the craziest weekend team, is already looking stellar. Robyn, about some new ones! Enjoy!

Blastbeats Be Gone The Momentum Interview

Momentum want to welcome you to sound. “Momentum” was something represent any return on investment for the genre of progressive doom. Never that was created in a conversation be- “real” labels, and therefore does not get heard of the genre? Neither had I between me and former singer Hafsteinn, signed. We also promote shows and fore their bass player Hörður sprang it the summer that Metallica played in print band T-Shirts. on me. I find myself sitting down with Iceland (2006?), and everyone ended Momentum’s bassist Hörður and guitar- up agreeing on it. You recently participated in a col- ist Erling to talk about the progression laborative dance piece with the of their music. Both of them look like You have just released the album multinational dance group Muscle they arrived to the interview on horse- Fixation at Rest, which might very and Hate which was performed at back straight from Tolkien’s Middle well prove to be the album of the the Reykjavík Dance Festival. How Iceland’s Earth. year in Iceland. Is it finally time for did that come about? you, like Sólstafir, and Mínus before Well, the producer of the show con- After years in the extreme metal/ them, to reach abroad? tacted Eldar Ástþórsson, who turned blackened death trade, how did you Definitely. Unlike many bands in the lo- her on to Molestin Records. They liked biggest band! arrive at the decidedly more doom- cal scene, Momentum has never played us best of the bands on there and we ish style you now peddle? outside of Iceland, but with this latest were very excited to take part because For concert information see It wasn´t really such a switch in styles release we think we are finally ready to this represented a rare opportunity to music listings on this spread as you might think if you just compare take it to the next level. The record has do something unique and reach a much records, but more of a gradual progres- been getting rave reviews across the wider audience than usual. It was a re- or visit us at www.sinfonia.is sion through many never recorded internet and can be purchased digitally ally weird and different experience and songs performed only live and then through Gogoyoko.com and physically we enjoyed it very much. dropped. through Molestin Records distributor Record Records”. What’s on the horizon for Momen- Why and when did you change the tum in the near future? name from the more black metal Tell us briefly about Molestin Re- The Fixation at Rest release gig, which moniker Afsprengi Satans (e. The cords. is at Faktorý on October 2nd, and then Spawn of Satan”)? Molestin Records was formed by us the Iceland Airwaves on October 13th. The original name was meant for drum- and the members of Celestine (i.e Hopefully then some shows abroad. mer Kristjáns black metal solo project, Momentum + Celestine= Molestin) to but carried unwanted and rather funny be a much needed outlet for albums by —Bgi o bjarnason connotations once the band was fully Icelandic metal and hardcore acts, as photo by guðný lára thorarensen manned and had started to progress pretty much nothing outside of Mínus away from the original blackmetal and Sólstafir releases could possibly Tickets » 545 2500 » www.sinfonia.is » Concerts take place in Háskólabíó. Outside Reykjavík | Venue finder

Keflavík Akureyri Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Akureyri Art Museum Sláturhúsið www.sudsudvestur.is www.listasafn.akureyri.is Kaupvangi 7 Hafnargata 22 Kaupvangsstræti 12 700 Egilsstaðir 230 Reykjanesbær 600 Akureyri 470-0692 421-2225 461 2610 Seyðisfjörður Hafnarfjörður Populus Tremula Skaftfell Hafnarborg poptrem.blogspot.com/ www.skaftfell.is www.hafnarborg.is Kaupvangsstræti 12 Austurvegur 42 Strandgata 34 600 Akureyri 710 Seyðisfjörður 220 Hafnarfjörður 472-1632 585-5790 Kunstraum Wohnraum Ásabyggð 2 Hveragerði Borgarnes 600 Akureyri LÁ Art The Icelandic Settlement Centre www.listasafnarnesinga.is www.landnam.is Mývatn Austurmörk 21 Brákarbraut 13-15 Mývatnsstofa 210 Hveragerði 310 Borgarnes Hraunvegi 8 483-1727 Always cheeses and red wine 437-1600 660 Mývatn 464-4390 offer on Wednesday evenings Stykkishólmur www.visitmyvatn.is Vatnasafnið / Library of Water www.libraryofwater.is www.facebook.com/kaffibarinn

No photographing allowed OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK CONCERTS & EVENTS IN SEPTEMBER

Myndlistafélagið, Akureyri By the How to use the listings Café Karólína, Akureyri Taktur Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Margrét Buhl Runs until September 19 For complete listings and detailed information September 4 – Oct ober1 Guðrún Pálína Guðmundsdóttir sea and on venues visit Photographs Öldrunarheimili, Akureyri www.grapevine.is Populus tremula, Akureyri Warm You with the Memory Jared Battes Runs until September 26 a delicios Opening Sep 4 Exhibits by various artists. Skaftfell, Seyðisfjörður Pompei of the North, Westman M USIC Lina Jaros, Geir Mosed & Jens Islands Reichert Excavation project at the site of the Opening September 10, 17:00 1973 volcanic eruption on the island of lobster 11 |SAT Heimaey. Reykjanes Art Museum, Reykjanes- At the Restaurant Fjöruborðið in Stokkseyri Tríó Reyjavíkur ART ONGOING bær Berg, Dalvík 11:00 - 17:00 every weekday, 13:00 - 15:00 Concert. Akureyri Museum 17:00 every weekend. Gunnars Þórðarsonar Treasure Safnahús Museum < Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Aquarium & Museum of Natural His- 2EYKJAVqK Runs until September 15 Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 20:00, 3900 ISK. tory in Vestmannæyjar 3TOKKSEYRI Twenty Photographers in Akureyri and %YRABAKKI Fax. +354 483 1545 · [email protected] · www.fjorubordid.is Surroundings 1858-1965 Eyjafjordur in Mounted birds & fish, aquarium, and 12 the early period. rocks & mineral display. |Sun Akureyri Art Museum Skaftfell Centre for Visual Art

Blaðaljósmzndarafélags Island Runs until September 30 Ensemble Úngút Ongoing until October 17 Exhibits by Birgir Andrésson, Tumi Mag- Berg, Dalvík Photographs. nússon & Roman Signer. 20:30 Concert. Árnesinga Folk Museum, Eyrar- bakki 16 11:00 - 18:00 until September 15 |ThuB Dalir Og Hólar - Travel Drawings 17 6 Classical Concert Ólafsdalur, Gilsfjörður; Króksfjarðarnes; Sep Nov Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Nýp & Röðull, Skarðsströnd 17:00 Sveinn Ðúa Hjörleifsson (tenor), galleriBOX, Akureyri Jón Svavar Jósefsson (bariton) and Þagnarnál Helga Bryndís Magnúsdóttir Runs until September 19 (piano).1500 ISK. Exhibits by Kristján Pétur Sigurðson Drag Queens in Akureyri Defekt Gamli Baukur, Húsavík Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Let´s Talk Local The Rocky Horror Picture Show in 21:00 Jazz Concert. 15:30 Comedy show about Reykjavík, Hof Menningarhús 2200 ISK/1100 ISK for kids. The Ghost Centre, Stokkseyri Akureyri has a new culture centre. On 17 Night at the Ghost Museum |Fi r B August 28 Hof Menningarhús opened his An offer for two to spend a scary night at doors, offering concerts, exhibitions and Rocky Horror Picture Show the Ghost Centre. 3500 ISK. other events in Iceland's second city. Now Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum it is time to stage the spectacular musical 20:00 , 4900 ISK. Ongoing exhibition. The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Dr. Frank- Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- N-Furter, master of a castle and a bizarre, place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the self-proclaimed "sweet transvestite from 18 Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). |sTA transsexual, Transylvania" tries to create the Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri perfect man, Rocky, in his castle laboratory. Medieval Performance Guðnýar Kristmannsdóttir This story is going to be told using a lot of Snorrastofa, Reykholt Exhibition with the Art Society. singing, over-the-top costumes and fake 17:00 , 2500 ISK. Hótel Varmahlíð breasts. WW Horses & Men Runs until January 1, 2011 19 |Sun Photographic exhibition which looks into the history of the horse, spanning 100 Rocky Horror Picture Show years . Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri The Icelandic Settlement Centre, Iceland on track 20:00 , 4900 ISK. Borgarnes Iceland on track The Egil Saga/ Settlement Exhibition 24 In these exhibitions The Settlement Cen- |FRI tre tells the sagas of Iceland's settlement and Egill Skallagrímsson, Iceland's most Guided Super Jeep Tours Rocky Horror Picture Show famous viking and first poet . Guided Super Jeep Tours Hof Menningarhús, Akureyri Jónas Viðar Gallery, Art center, 20:00 , 4900 ISK. Akureyri Lara Stefansdottir CENTER FOR Runs until September 19 VISUAL ART Photo exhibition. ART OPENINGS Ketilhúsið, Akureyri Rabbabari Byggðasafnsins Hvols, Dalvík Runs until September 12 Fram til fortíðar (Until the Past) Exhibits by Guðrun Hadda and Anna September 9 - November 28 Sigriður Hróðmarsdóttir Exhibits by Margrét Jónsdóttir, Þórdís Jónsdóttir, Íris Ólöf Sigurjónsdóttir and Þórarinn Blöndal.

Now offering catering service!

Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík tel: 552 4444

Call: +354 663 8300 Or book online: www.icelandontrack.com 10% off all day tours Offer valid only if booked directly with Iceland on Track Central Reykjavík FAXAFLÓI

FISKISLÓÐ

1 2 3 4 5

ANDAGARÐUR GR Maritime TheMuseum Fishpacking District MAPMAP The Old Harbour Old A Depart for whale and puffin Places We Like watching tours from the old Harbour harbour, a lively area, offering 1 Basil & LimeÁNANAUST an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres Klapparstíg 38 ARGATA

Despite what the name might suggest, Basil NÝL ENDUGATA Old & Lime offers up well made, unpretentious Harbour Italian food at laudably moderate prices. Area Their tempting menu begs for repeat visits. FRAMNESVEGUR Start by trying staple courses such as RÁNA 13 B VESTURGATA the Chicken Fusilli and the Langoustine RGATA Future GEIRSGATA Concert Tagliatelli. BÁRUGA Hall TA Reykjavík ÖLDUGA Art Museum BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR TA ÆGISGATA Main 10TRYGGVAGATA11 14 2 Havarí Tourist Info Down Austurstræti 8 Taxi 2 Town GARÐASTRÆTI 17 12HAFNAR 6 15 Even before it opened, Havarí was SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT D TÚNGATA AUSTURSTRÆTI STRÆTI everybody’s favourite new music and 3 The Culture design store. Headed by Svavar Pétur and Austur National AÐALSTRÆTI völlur House Berglind of Skakkamanage, the shop shills Park Theatre KIRKJUSTRÆTI the musical goods of Kimi Records, Borgin BANKASTRÆTI LINDARGATA HVERFISGATA Skyline SÆBRAUT Hljómplötur, gogoyoko and Skakkapopp as Icelandic Vesturbæjar PÓSTH.STRÆTI 9 well as posters,Swimming art, designHOFSVALLAGATA products and SÓLVALLAG Parliament “Financial clothing. CFPool 4 ATA LÆKJARGATA 16 5 18 KLAPPARSTÍGUR District” Lauga 8 HRINGBRAUT E City vegur Hall Taxi 1 VATNSSTÍGUR BORGARTÚN LaugavegurÓL SUÐURGATA Up ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTING INGÓLFSSTRÆTIReykjavík’s main shopping 3 Hressingarskálinn and culture street, featuringSKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGURSK TJARNARGATA ÓLAVÖR Town HVERFISGATA The a wide range of bars, bistros, Tower Austurstræti 20 cafes and restaurants. VEGUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTIBERGSTAÐARSTR LAUGAVEGUR Y ou know, Hressó is basically the only place City A Pond I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee is decent GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA to excellent, but their forte is surely their LAUFÁS ÞÓRSGATA Hlemmur NÓATÚN FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR wonderful patio, where you can enjoy the National ÓÐINSGATA 7 Bus West STÍGUR spring breeze in the sun, wrap yourself F Gallery Terminal of Iceland VITA in a blanket beneath an electric heater in Side NJÁLSGATA HÁTÚN January and at all times: smoke. They also Ê BARÓNSSTÍGUR SNORRABRAUT Taxi boast of quite the prolific menu. Hallgríms BERGÞÓRUGATA Laugardals BIRKIMELUR Swimming BALDURSGATA kirkja Pool Church LAUGAVEGUR SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT

4 Hemmi og Valdi BRAGAGATA NJARÐARGATA The Einar Jónsson Laugavegi 21 Museum Sundhöllin Swimming S G KIPHOLT The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi is a University Pool RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SKIPHOLT of Iceland cosy hangout that has advanced from being Hljómskáli BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI EIRÍKSGATA a toasty retreat, where one can score cheap Park BARÓNSSTÍGUR beer and have a quiet chat, into being a SUÐURGATA University HRINGBRAUT East of Iceland chock-full concert venue and an all-night Park NÓATÚN LAUFÁSVEGUR Side party place. And believe us, the atmosphere is brilliant. SKK HÁTEIGSVEGUR

SNORRABRAUT

GUNNARSBRAUT H Nordic House Miklatún Culture Center Park FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR 5 Tíu Dropar GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Kjarvalsstaðir

Laugavegur 27 RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR National BSÍ Museum If you’re sick of all the arty cafés, filled with Coach Terminal Sigur Rós wannabes browsing Facebook NJARÐARGATA on their Macs – go to Tíu Dropar. It’s a back-to-basics Icelandic café that hasn’t HRINGBRAUT I changed its interior since the sixties. Really BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ proves the old adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t LANGAHLÍÐ MIKLABRAUT fix it.” Plus, the coffee’s great and so are the KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT pancakes. SKK Reykjavík Kringlan Domestic Shopping Airport Center Ë Ì

6 Habibi 7 Babalú 8 Boston 9 Kisan Hafnarstræti 18 Skólavörðstíg 22 Laugavegur 28 Laugavegur 7 This small restaurant offers up a concise Located on the second-floor of a quirky little Like an older sibling to the fabled (now This store is incredibly cool. It’s stocked with menu of delicious Arabic cuisine, from building on Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an deceased) Sirkús, Boston is a warm and really unique and quirky clothes, outerwear, shawarma to kebabs and falafels. The inviting, quaint and cosy café serving up a mellow second-floor bar on Laugavegur accessories and handbags, plus they have staff is really friendly and accommodating selection of tea, coffee and hot chocolate that plays host to the arty party crowd. an adorable section of kids clothes, kitschy of requests to kick up the spiciness or along with delicious baked goods and The baroque wall dressings and deep, rich vintage toys and books and even interior tone it down if the customer so desires. light meals. Food and drink aside, Babalú coloured décor make this bar feel pretty design items. Wicked place; definitely worth Habibi seriously hits the spot after hours boasts colourfully decorated and super- swank, but the mood of the place can go a visit. CF of partying (or any other time of day) so comfortable surroundings and a genuinely from great to legendary within a heartbeat. it’s convenient that the place is allegedly friendly and likeable staff. CF CF open until 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday (although their advertised opening hours are sometimes not adhered to). CF Your tickets await you from September 15th! ≥ www.riff.is

norrae na husid- - 2 Interviews New Visions

RIFF - The Reykjavik International Film Festival - Introduction

RIFF, The Reykjavik International Film Festival, takes place unforgettable experience in Reykjavik city. On these few for the seventh time from September 23 to October 3. As pages, you can catch a glimpse of what is happening at one of Iceland‘s highest attended cultural event, the main the festival. Tickets for the festival will be available purpose of the festival is to provide both Icelandic and from September 15 at the Eymundsson bookstore in international filmgoers with a wide selection of alternative, Austurstræti, from 12 to 7 every day. For further independent cinema. On top of that, we promise you an information on the festival, please visit www.riff.is.

A groundbreaking documentary The New Visions category

When The Dragon Swallowed The Sun is a Up-and-coming directors present their first or second film in New journey that changes the audience Visions. They all know their way around the world of films, some even ha ve years of experience, but now they are entering the big stage. Amongst them are directors who will mould 21st-century cinema. It is probable that their work will challenge conventions, extend the boundaries, widen the horizon. New visions is not only a chance to see the beginning of a long career, it is also the easiest way to witness what is going on in film today. The films in the New Visions category compete for the Golden Puffin, RIFF’s main prize.

The Four Times political violence in Iran. She falls in love with Gecko, the bellhop at her Le Quattro Volte hotel, but the bloodshed resurfaces through the Internet. A 21st century love story steeped in Internet and tangled up in history.

Inside America Dirk Simon is the director of the In the film, the Chinese are compared with documentary When The Dragon the Nazis. Could you tell us something about that provocative point of view? Swallowed The Sun which will be When one of the main characters of the Michelangelo Frammartino screened at RIFF. Seven years in the film draws the comparison with Nazi (ITA) 2010 88 min. · 35 mm making, the film is the first inside Germany, of course it is very provocative on many levels. I eventually decided to An old shepherd lives his last days look at the Tibetan movement keep it in the film because I did not know in a quiet medieval village perched to free Tibet from Chinese how else to communicate the desperation high on the hills of Calabria, at the occupation, its internal conflicts Tibetans feel about their fate under southernmost tip of Italy. He herds Chinese rule. Where do we draw the line? goats under skies that most villagers and contradictions. Why hasn’t When Tibetan babies die in a Chinese have deserted long ago. He is sick, and Tibet been freed? Who is keeping hospital in Tibet for no other reason than believes to find his medicine in the Barbara Eder (AUT) 2010 107 min. · 35 mm the movement from going forward? Chinese doctors and nurses refusing dust he collects on the church floor, to help when a complication occurs, do which he drinks in his water every day. The film is a groundbreaking you want to blame Tibetans calling the Inside America is the portrait of six teenagers during their senior year at documentary that examines these situation in Tibet genocide? Hitler was Littlerock questions in a quest to understand hiding for a long time his true aspirations. Hanna High School in Brownsville, The Chinese Government is very open Texas. The American flag is proudly why the world is still dealing with about their desire to dominate the world, raised at school every morning and the unsettled issues like the Tibetan to become the super power of the future. dream of prosperity and freedom is cause and what can really be done And we Westerners are playing into invested in their mind, but the reality is their hands, just as the West did at the tough; drugs, violence and security at to eradicate them. beginning of Hitlers career as chancellor. the school gate are a part of the daily There was good business with the Nazis routine. First, we asked Simon how the idea of at first. And we are doing really good the film came about. business with China, don’t we? But for Attenberg At first, it was supposed to be a film about what prize? We are closing our eyes and the unbroken lineage of the great religious ears to the suffering and betray the ideals kings of Tibet. But witnessing in 2004 the our forefathers died for. I don’t want Mike Ott coronation of Lhagyari Trichen Namgyal anyone in the future to have the excuse (USA) 2010 84 min. · DigiBeta Wangchuk when he was only a teenage boy, “Oh - I had no idea!” I understood that our film also needs to When her car breaks down on a site- take a look at the young Tibetan generation The film features music from Björk. How seeing tour of California, a Japanese and its future. The story took on a life on did that come about? student winds up stranded in a small its own and I was simply following the Using Björks song was foremost an desert town. Exhilarated by a sudden developments, not sure where it would take artistic and not a political decision. This sense of freedom, she extends her me. The story kept developing and changing lo-fi beat seemed bold but the perfect stay. But as she pulls back the layers until the very end. contrast after Philip Glass’ grand finale. on this unlikely paradise, she discovers And in a way, after watching the film, after a different America than the one in her I felt drawn to and compassionate about having worked on it for so long, I wanted dreams. Athina Rachel Tsangari the situation of Tibetans living under to join her and scream it out. I realized (GRE) 2010 95 min. · 35 mm Chinese rule because I grew up under that we would probably lose half of the Communism in East Germany. I was audience during that song because they Flowers Of Evil, Fleurs Du Mal Marina, 23, is growing up with her fortunate to escape unharmed before might not be able to stand it, but for me it architect father in a factory town by the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, but was the most honest, the only choice. the sea. Finding the human species too many people died trying to reach the repellent, she keeps her distance. same thing: freedom. Finally, could you tell us a little bit about Instead she chooses to observe it how the film has been received? through the songs of Suicide, the Although quite a few films had been made The film is doing its festival run since mammal documentaries of Sir David on the topic of Tibet vs. China in general, February but we have been very selective Attenborough, and the sexual- I felt that no film was satisfying in terms where to show it. We had many great education lessons she receives from of grasping the complexity of the issue. screenings with intense Q&A’s. High- her only friend, Bella. No film I knew used cinematography, lights include the international premiere David Dusa sound and editing to its full capacity. I felt in Thessaloniki, Greece and our Latin (FRA) 2010 99 min. · DigiBeta the need of making a film that reaches American premiere in Brazil. Those deep into the pool of human emotions. Festivals with its audiences were Miss Dalloway, a young woman from From the beginning I wanted to take the an amazing experience. To date, the Tehran’s high society, is sent to Paris audience on a journey that will change film has received 12 nominations and by her parents to protect her from the them and how they look at the world. won 5 awards. Interviews New Visions 3

Mandoo out. Stig believes that Janos is a great A Nobel Prize pedophile talent and decides that the way out of his situation is by marketing Janos as Bosse Lindquist, a Swedish a brilliant artist. All of a sudden Stig is director, got really interested reminded of his past, which may change everything. when he read the diaries of Carleton Gajdusek, who was The Christening an American, Nobel Prize- Chrzest winning doctor. Lindquist later found out that Gajdusek was a pedophile and had sex with Ebrahim Saeedi children when he was working (IRQ) 2010 90 min. · 35 mm in New Guinea. Later, Gajdusek In 1979 Iranian Kurdistan was in turmoil brought over 50 boys back and the Islamic revolution obliged Iranian Kurds to flee their homeland to live with him in the United and seek refuge in neighbouring Iraq. States. Gajdusek claimed that In 2004 Sheelan, a young female doctor of Kurdish origin takes on a journey sex with children was okay if with her sick uncle and his son on their their own cultures allowed it. homeward trek from Iraq to Iran, but Marcin Wrona the road to Iran will be long and full of (POL) 2010 86 min. · 35 mm There are moral questions in the film. twists and turns. Among them: Is it alright to have sex Michael has everything he could with children, if they are brought up in a possibly dream of - a beautiful culture where having sex with children is Tomorrow, Morgen wife Magda, a newborn son, a good okay. What is your conclusion? between Muslims and Christian. Whose job. Unfortunately, there is a mafia My conclusion is: If it is hurtful, you culture should be the norm? Whose laws vendetta against him and Michal shouldn’t do it. Which means, practically, should be the ones to follow? I think we will desperately tries to find a way to save as long as he did this in New Guinea, have more and more clashes like that, but his family. Several days before the where it was part of the culture, he still we are getting more and more similar. christening of his child he invites his participated in something that everybody I think basic rules should apply: When you old friend to be the godfather. agreed upon, the parents and relatives. hurt somebody else it is not okay. It was totally open and no secret. I think Jo for Jonathan Are people constantly telling you what that did not cause hurt or pain. It is Jo pour Jonathan different when you remove the boys from they thought about after viewing your Marian Crisan that culture. If you do it with American, film? (FRA/ROM/HUN) 2010 100 min. · 35 mm Swedish or Icelandic boys, who do not Quite often. People think about different come from that culture, you put them things. Cultural clashes, sexual abuse of Nelu lives in Salonta, a small town on in a dangerous place. In New Guinea it women, freedom of the mind, exploration the Romanian-Hungarian border. One is believed that sex really needs to be of the world, lot of different dimensions. morning, he meets a Turkish man trying taught through generations, children Thinking about what you are born to cross the border. Nelu gives the need to learn to have sex from the with, what is a genius, what is it to be stranger clothes, food and shelter. In older, parents, relative, who have to be intelligent and what is the limit? So many return, the Turkish man gives him all the respectful to the younger ones. questions and so many areas to explore. money he has, asking him to help him cross the border. Eventually, Nelu takes The topic of the film relates with other Does your film come with a message? the money and promises he will help. areas in the world, where culture To think and don’t expect easy solutions. I don’t think I have an easy message. clashes and nations do not agree what Maxime Giroux What really fascinated me is how people, Aardvark way is the “right” one. What is your (CAN) 2010 81 min. · 35 mm opinion on that? almost at the same moment, have their eyes wide open, questioning and That is really one of the interesting At 17, Jo idolizes his big brother, exploring at the same time, but have so questions in the film. Obviously you Thomas, car enthusiast and drag racer closed mind at another area. see that, when you look at the clashes extraordinaire. One night an illegal race ends in a fiery crash. Jo is more or less uninjured, but Thomas is badly burned and disfigured. Condemned to isolation The First Step Towards Change and shame, Thomas asks Jo to help him “Most people don’t have any idea how end his suffering. criminal the North Korea regime is.” At Ellen’s Age Kitao Sakurai Im Alter von Ellen NC Heikin is a filmmaker who (USA/ARG) 2010 · 80 min. · DigiBeta made the film Kimjongilia. Larry is a blind and solitary man The film takes place in North recovering from alcoholism and working Korea which is one of the most towards stability. When he joins a Jiu isolated nations in the world. Jitsu academy, he finds a close friend in his young hard-partying instructor, For 60 years, the country has Darren. But, as disturbing aspects of been governed by a totalitarian Darren’s life are starting to unravel, Larry soon finds himself facing the regime that controls all consequences of violence, descending information entering and into an underworld, deeper and deeper into shadows and darkness. leaving the country. NC Pia Marais Heikin is coming to RIFF to (GER) 2010 95 min. · 35 mm Song of tomorrow present her film but also to Framtidens melodi Ellen must come to face some new speak about documentary- turns in life. Although her job as a flight filmmaking. What are you saying with the film? attendant keeps her rotating around I want to reveal the true depths of the the globe, she finds her private life has How did you come up with the idea for human rights abuses in North Korea, become a placebo. As she crosses the the film Kimjongilia? and galvanize people around the world airfield, she knows instinctively that I accompanied my husband to a human to do something about it. It’s a very she is leaving her old life behind. right conference in Tokyo, where I met difficult situation, but the first step Kang Chol Hwan, who figures prominently towards change is knowledge. Most in the film. He told this story of being taken people don’t have any idea how criminal to a concentration camp when he was nine the North Korea regime is. Once they see Kimjongilia, they can have no more Jonas Bergergård, Jonas Holmström years old, and I was blown away. I couldn’t (SWE) 2010 84 min. · DigiBeta believe this was happening in our time illusions. and I determined to do something about Have you tried to get it screened in Stig Manner lives an unglamorous it. I started by optioning Kang’s memoir life buying and selling things to flea in order to do a true life adaption, but North Korea? No I have not. I can’t imagine they would markets. His bohemian friend, the eventually decided on a documentary. I wandering singer Janos helps him just had to get the story out. show it anywhere, plus, I believe it could endanger some of my subjects. 4 Special events Masterclasses and discussions

Masterclasses and discussions International Workshop on Independent Filmmaking

RIFF has organized a 5-day workshop where independent cinema will be confronted. The issues will be everything from how to prepare and produce your film to how you act after postproduction. This year’s edition of RIFF boasts of many renowned international guests, who have undertaken to lecture, and direct concept work in partnership with Icelandic strongholds from the business. Number of participants is limited. Registration and further info: riff.is All seven workshops take place in the National Museum Of Iceland. The prize for all seven workshops is 3.000 ISK, but 2.500 for RIFF passholders. These are three of the seven workshops:

September 24th Focus on Jim Jarmusch 15.00-17.00 RIFF’s guest of honor Laird Adamson (US): How to pitch your work? To truly celebrate Jim Jarmusch and Sara Driver’s visit to Reykjavik, RIFF is excited to screen two Laird Adamsson from Magnolia picture early films by each of the longtime couple, Driver’s You Are Not I (1981) and Jarmusch’s Down reviews how one sets it’s film up to By Law (1986), which brought Roberto Benigni onto the world screen, and The Limits of Control travel; what to think about and what the process is getting your film from (2009), his latest work showing for the first time in Iceland. Driver and Jarmusch are virtual international festivals and through the radiologists, often working in black and white, x-raying right down to the bone and letting us international market place. see the human skeleton of characters making their stand against forces that dwarf them. Their partnership is rare and their vision unique, distilled here in these three films, two early, one late. September 25th 13.00-15.00 You are not I Down by Law The Limits of Control Amy Hardie (UK): Creating a doc: in correspondence with her film “The Edge of Dreaming”

Do you want to go to the Edge of Dreaming? The director is offering a special space for people to engage with film in a new and personal way. The Edge of Dreaming is a documentary that takes us into the dreams of an ordinary Sara Driver Jim Jarmusch Jim Jarmusch woman, a rational, busy mother of three (US) 1981 48 min, 16mm, Black & White 1986 107 mins, 35 mm, Black & White 2009 116 mins, 35mm, color who doesn’t have the time to remember her dreams. In Sara Driver’s debut film—she directed, Jim Jarmusch’s third film, after Permanent In full command of his craft, Jim Jarmusch NB. Only 12 participants edited, and co-produced and wrote the Vacation and the groundbreaking Stranger at 56 doesn’t back off the accelerator in screenplay with Jim Jarmusch--a young Than Paradise, Down By Law captures the The Limits of Control, his 11th full feature. woman drifts out of an asylum back into the sense that anything might happen in New It’s a road movie through Spain, starting September 25th world, stopping to pick up a pair of men’s Orleans of the 1980s, but not necessarily and ending in Madrid, but not quite like any shoes and an overcoat found in a field after what anyone might expect—a Jarmusch other one, peopled with cryptic characters 15.00-17.00 a catastrophic accident has littered the specialty. People are strange when you’re either pursued by menace or purveying it, The Role of Film Sales Companies landscape with the dead. Backed by an ee- a stranger, of course, and New Orleans including Isaach de Bankolé, Tilda Swinton, rie soundtrack, we listen to her inner voice has always been perhaps the strangest of John Hurt, Gael Garcia Bernal, Hiam today: Philipp Hoffmann (DE) as she makes her way back to her sister’s American cities. This film introduced that Abass, and Bill Murray. place where their confrontation is at the strange Italian bird, Roberto “Bob” Benigni Matchfactory’s finest Phillip Hoffman, heart of the Paul Bowles’ short story that to US and world audiences. With deadpan elaborates on today’s condition in the inspired the film. great performances from early Jarmusch international film market and discusses mainstays John Lurie (who did the score), the evolution in the market over the last Tom Waits, Nicoletta Braschi and Ellen few year’s with participants. Barkin, plus Sara Driver, too. Hopes and prospects A visual concert A video-conference with Noam Chomsky Jóhann Jóhannsson at Hallgrímskirkja-church

September 28th Free Admission University Cinema 17.00-19.00 October 1st 2.500 ISK / 2.000 for passholders Hallgrímskirkja-church 20.00

known in the academic and scientific This will be Jóhannsson’s first concert community as one of the fathers of in his home country for four years, as modern linguistics, and a major figure of he has been very busy playing his music analytic philosophy, and is also a political all over the world since his last visit to dissident, social critic and libertarian Iceland. Jóhann will have a band of five socialist. with him, and together they will play In his video-conference in Reykjavik, in music from three of Jóhanns albums, light of the near collapse of the western Englabörn, Fordlandia and IBM 1401, economic system, Chomsky will address a User´s Manual. Additionally, Jóhann the questions: where we can find hope, will play new, unpublished music at the and what are the alternatives we should concert. In addition to the music, visuals be building? Also, what can Iceland from Magnús Helgason will be screened learn from what happened? Additionally, at the concert. Magnús has made visuals environmental issues will be discussed. specially for Jóhann’s music, which have Moderator of the conference will be been screened at Jóhann’s concerts It is with great pleasure that RIFF Candian filmmaker Peter Wintonick, around the world. Jóhann’s last album, And presents a live video-conference director of Manufacturing Consent: Noam in the endless pause there came the sound with Noam Chomsky. Chomsky and the Media, which is also of bees, came out at 12 Tónar in April, and playing at RIFF. at Type label around the world. The album Chomsky is an American linguist, The conference is in cooperation with features music from the film Varmints philosopher, cognitive scientist, and The University of Iceland’s School of which was nominated for the best short political activist. Chomsky is well Humanities. animation at the BAFTA-awards in 2009. Central Reykjavík FAXAFLÓI

FISKISLÓÐ

6 7 8 9 10 13 Sægreifinn GRANDAGARÐUR Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Maritime For a map of outside downtown Reykjavík Down by the Reykjavík harbour, Sægreifinn TheMuseum Fishpacking District visit www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic fish shop and restaurant is truly a unique The phonebook website www.ja.is establishment. The menu features various Old Harbour Old fish dishes (including most of the “crazy Depart for whale and puffin Icelandic food” you’ll want to tell your watching tours from the old Harbour harbour, a lively area, offering friends you had) and a rich portion of the Ask for a Tax Free an assortment of restaurants best lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. Good ÁNANAUST Check out our walking tour, Grapevine Got form & save up to 15% MÝRARGATA and activity centres food and welcoming service make this place Legs, every friday 4 pm at Havarí, Austur- a must-try. stræti. NÝLENDUGATA Old Harbour Area If you have an iPhone, check out the cool FRAMNESVEGUR RÁNARGATA Locatify app in the AppStore. It´s got a FREE VESTURGATA Future guided audio tour of the downtown area, 14 Kolaportið GEIRSGATA Concert BÁRUGATA Hall courtesy of your pals at Grapevine. Tryggvagata 19 Reykjavík ÖLDUGATA Art Reykjavík’s massive indoor flea market is a Museum wonderful place to get lost for a few hours, BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA rummaging through stall upon stall of Tourist potential treasures. There are heaps of used Info Down clothing, knitwear and other yard-sale type Taxi Town goods from decades of yore, and a large GARÐASTRÆTI HAFNAR SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT TÚNGATA AUSTURSTRÆTI STRÆTI food section with fish, meats and baked The goods. Check out the vintage post cards and Culture Austur National prints at the table near the army surplus. CF AÐALSTRÆTI völlur House Park Theatre KIRKJUSTRÆTI BANKASTRÆTI LINDARGATA HVERFISGATA Skyline SÆBRAUT Icelandic Vesturbæjar PÓSTH.STRÆTI Swimming HOFSVALLAGATA SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament “Financial Pool LÆKJARGATA KLAPPARSTÍGUR District” Lauga 15 Pizza King HRINGBRAUT City vegur Hall Taxi VATNSSTÍGUR BORGARTÚN Hafnarstræti 18 LaugavegurÓL SUÐURGATA Up ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTING INGÓLFSSTRÆTIReykjavík’s main shopping To be honest, this isn’t the best pizza up for and culture street, featuringSKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGURSK grabs, but it’s cheap, not pre-heated (like TJARNARGATA ÓLAVÖR Town HVERFISGATA The a wide range of bars, bistros, Tower at SOME pizza places downtown), and the cafes and restaurants. VEGUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTIBERGSTAÐARSTR LAUG staff is rather cool. Their pizzas are always City A AVEGUR bulletproof, and they offer various offers

Pond GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA LAUFÁS on top of it that are definitely worth check

ÞÓRSGATA Hlemmur NÓATÚN out. SKK FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR National ÓÐINSGATA Bus West Gallery Terminal of Iceland VITASTÍGUR Side NJ ÁLSGATA HÁTÚN Ê BARÓNSSTÍGUR SNORRABRAUT Taxi Hallgríms BERGÞÓRUG Laugardals BIRKIMELUR Swimming BALDURSGATA kirkja Pool Church ATA LAUGAVEGUR SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT

BRAGAGATA 16 Grænn Kostur NJARÐARGATA The Einar Jónsson Museum Sundhöllin Skólavörðustíg 8b Swimming S KIPHOLT University Pool RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SKIPHOLT Serving healthy organic vegan and of Iceland Hljómskáli BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI vegetarian food for well over a decade, EIRÍKSGATA Park BARÓNSSTÍGUR Grænn Kostur is the perfect downtown SUÐURGATA University HRINGBRAUT East of Iceland choice for enjoying light, wholesome and Park NÓATÚN inexpensive meals. Try any of their courses LAUFÁSVEGUR Side of the day, or go for the ever-pleasing spinach lasagne. HÁTEIGSVEGUR

SNORRABRAUT

GUNNARSBRAUT Nordic House Miklatún Culture Center Park FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR 17 Kraum Aðalstræti 10 GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Kjarvalsstaðir National BSÍ RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Museum The Kraum Iceland Design store features Coach the best from the latest trends in Icelandic Terminal NJARÐARGATA design. Kraum sells unique, Icelandic RBRAUT takes on everyday items like stationary, HRINGBRAUT wooden children’s toys, plastic zip-lockable handbags and raincoats, and woollen and BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ LANGAHLÍÐ other clothing and jewellery. MIKLABRAUT KRINGLUMÝRA Laugavegur 56 Reykjavík Kringlan Domestic Shopping 101 Reykjavík Airport Center Ë Ì www.nikitaclothing.com

18 10 Sódóma Reykjavík 11 Bakkus 12 Austur Kaffibarinn Tryggvagötu 22 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Austurstræti 7 Bergstaðastræti 1 Sódóma on Tryggvagötu is quickly became A new and welcome addition to Reykajvík’s Sleek and shiny, this new restaurant and Weekends are somewhat overrated at a hit with party crowds and gig-goers alike. bar scene, Bakkus serves up reasonably bar is a straight-up boutique hot spot for Kaffibarinn. Oh, of course they’re brilliant An extensive venue, filled with reasonably priced beer, a really impressive selection stylish kids and trendy professionals alike. if you’re completely pissed, the DJ is fresh priced beverages and reasonably good of international vodkas and an atmosphere Appropriate for formal business meetings and the crowd is full-blooded. Still, the looking people. Some of Iceland’s finest unlike any other in town. An eclectic mix of but casual enough for the roll-out-bed-at- weekdays are evenbetter. It doesn’t matter musical ventures regularly perform there, patrons, regular live music and movie nights 5pm crowd, they serve up ample, satisfying, when you pop in, you’re always treated and their schedule looks promising too. keep this place interesting and always modern dishes at reasonable prices. This like a pal rather than a customer, and you Also, make sure to visit their men’s room for inviting. Expect dancing on tables and to- is also one of the rare places to get a full should always expect get caught in some a glance at the “Pissoir of Absolution”. JB the-death foosball battles. CF breakfast all day long! It’s really fucking shenanigans, whether it’s a crazy Monday good too. RL bender or a whacky Tuesday...well... bender. SKK

LAUGAVEGUR 51, 101 RVK ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN SEPTEMBER

Whale Watching Cocktail pleasures and Vík Prjónsdóttir Opening September 9, 18:00 Visual stimulation Runs until October 30 Design and fashion. from Reykjavik How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. For complete listings and detailed information on venues visit www.grapevine.is ONGOING 12 Tónar Music Store Sigríður Níelsdóttir OPENINGS Until September 19 Exhibition. ART67 Tíma mót Árbæjarsafn / Reykjavík City Mu- Opening September 4 seum Guided Tours Exhibits by Stefán Hermannsson Until May 31 i8 Outdoor heritage museum. Thör Vigfússon Art Gallery Fold Opening September 9, 17:00 From The Bowels Of The Earth Runs until October 16 Photography exhibition of the volcanic A series of wall works made with painted eruptions in Iceland this year, which glass. brought photographers from all over the Gerðuberg world. Ongoing all summer. 9 Artótek September 11, 14:00 Ðaði Guðbjörnsson Performances by Helga Dixon Gylfadóttir Runs until October 3 and Haukur Páll Björnsson. September 18, 14:00 ASÍ Art Museum Svava Björnsdottir and Inga Rag- Performance. narsdottir Klassíski Listdansskólinn Runs until September 26 Daily whale watching tours at , and Hulda. 9:00 13:00 17:00 Sculptures September 17, 18 & 19, 20:00 from the Old harbour in Reykjavik. Free entry to the The Culture House Dance Performance. Medieval Manuscripts Whale Watching Centre for our passengers. September 19, 14:00 - 20:00 Permanent Exhibition: Dance Festival. Icelanders The Living Art Museum Runs until September. Lobbyists Other adventures at sea Exhibit featuring a selection of pho- Runs until late September tographs from the book "Icelanders" tours are scheduled daily at 11:00 until National Gallery of Iceland - Sea Angling by Unnur Jökulsdóttir and Sigurgeir Imported Landscape Sigurjónsson. August 31st. September 16 – November 7 ICELAND :: FILM Photos by Pétur Thomsen tracing Ongoing exhibition. - The ferry to Viðey island is scheduled all year round. changes in the natural landscape at Traces the evolution of Icelandic Hafrahvammagljúfur. filmmaking, exploring myths versus Cars in Rivers modernity. September 16 – November 7 Call us on 555 3565 The Nation and Nature Photos by Olafur Eliasson – series Thirty-minute film about the relationship or visit www.elding.is evoking the artist's connection with the between humans and nature. Film plays Icelandic wilderness. Make sure it’s Elding! continuously during open hours. Tour Operator Reykjavík Art Museum Cinema No. 2 Environmental Award Hafnarhús Icelandic Tourist Board The Eruption! Authorised by Indian Highway Icelandic Tourist Board Monday – Friday 16:00 and 16:30. September 9 – October 10 Ongoing all winter elding.is Contemporary Indian Art Video Thorsmörk - The Hidden Valley of D17 Magnús Helgason - Im not a Thor Compost, I´m an Earthworm Monday – Friday 17:00. Ongoing all winter September 9 – October 24 Icelandic nature films. Gardening with paint Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown Design The Dwarf Gallery Ongoing exhibition. Opening September 16, 20:00 An independent art gallery with ongoing Lecture series in collaboration with The exhibitions. It´s located in an old base- Iceland Design Centre ment. Do you really need to know any Magnús Helgason - Artist´s Talk more than that? Opening September 12, 15:00 Experimental Films Screening The Einar Jónsson Museum Permanent exhibition: September 23, 20:00 The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. Foggy Mountains Break Down More than Non-Foggy Mountains by Jessie Gallery Ágúst Runs until October 10. Stead.

Kjarvalsstaðir Exhibit by Marta M. Jónsdóttir. Gallery Kling & Bang The Will as a Weapon September 9 – October 24 Kaosmosis Art by Jennica Rapehirst, Maia Lyon (Fe)male workshop Probably the best pizza Daw, Joseph Marzolla, Beverly September 4 – November 7 ShanaPalmer, Athena Llewellyn Barat, Family workshop in connection with the Nicholas Beckers, Berglind Ágústsdóttir. exhibition Gerðuberg Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Flights of Fancy in town "What are you up to now, my dear Runs until October 17 Erlingur" Paintings by Aðalbjörg Þórðardóttir of September 18 – November 28 swans as folktale motifs, part of the Sculptures by Erlingur Jónsson and natural environment and symbols of the Sigurjón Ólafsson soul. Spark, Design Space

Icelandic home cooking with a modern flair Shark • lobster• Lamb • Whale • Puffin • fish • Wild game ALL the icelandic beers Kitchen open till midnight!

Tannvernd barna

Pósthússtræti 9 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 www.icelandicbar.is [email protected] ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN SEPTEMBER

Responses Reflection (National Gallery of Pho- Runs until October 10 tography) Artworks made of old paper by Jón Runs until September 14 Laxdal Halldórsson Exhibition by eight Icelandic photogra- In Four Corners phers Runs until October 31 The Nordic House i8 Two Exhibitions, Two Artists Facing In- Facing Out Runs until September 15 Runs until October 17 Exhibition by Stefan Boulter and Bente Hreinn Fridfinnsson and Egill Sæbjörn- Elisbeth Endresen son. Land Of Experiments Iðnó Runs until September 30 Cellophane Interactive exhibit based on scientific Daily 20:00, until the September 19 contraptions from Tom Tits Experimen- Hit comedy monologue about being a tarium in Sweden. Play! modern woman. Ráðhús Reykjavíkur The Library Room Dulin Himintungl Ongoing exhibition Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama National Archives of Iceland - 90 years photos of Iceland. in the museum building. Commemorat- Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 ing the 100th anniversary of the Culture The Settlement Exhibition House. Permanent exhibition: The Living Art Museum Reykjavík Art Museum Old News Ásmundarsafn Project about information, media and Sleep Light recycled, reprinted news by Jacob Runs until April 17, 2011. Fabricius, director of Malmö Kunsthalle Multimedia installation by Ráðhildur in Sweden. Ingadóttir. Mokka Kaffi Thoughts In Forms Secondo Runs until April 17, 2011. Runs until September 23 The workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Photo exhibition by Karl R Lilliendahl Sveinsson, recreated. National Gallery of Iceland “I choose blossoming women …” Cindy Sherman - Untitled Film Stills Runs until April 17, 2011 Runs until September 23. Woman as Symbol in the Art of Ásmun- American photographer Sherman plays dur Sveinsson. with female film fantasies in self-por- Reykjavik Maritime Museum traits. The Coast Guard vessel Óðinn Strides Permanent exhibition Runs until December 31, 2012. The Óðinn took part in all three Cod A selection of the Gallery's collection Wars and is open for exhibition. from the 20th and 21st century. Reykjavik Museum of Photography The National Museum Skotið - Anne Marie Sörensen Permanent exhibitions: Runs until September 9 The Making of a Nation The exhibition examines the formation Heritage and History in Iceland is Blue water, wind and lava that moves intended to provide insight into the with the natural elements. history of the Icelandic nation from the Reykjavík Restaurant Settlement to the present day. Let´s Talk Local Ása Wright - From Iceland to Trini- 18:00 Comedy show about Reykjavík, dad 2200 ISK/1100 ISK for kids. Collection of objects that belonged to Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum the adventuress Ása Guðmundsdóttir. Who is who? Embroidery of Life Ongoing Embroidery by Guðrún Guðmundsdóttir, A Moment with Sigurjón Ólafsson inspired by old manuscripts Ongoing

Mel Ramos exhibition Reykjavík Art Museum - Hafnarhús September 18 - November 7 Free admission Born in California in 1935, the prolific American painter, Mel Ramos, gained his greatest popularity through association with the Pop Art movement of the 1960's. Best known for his paintings of big-breasted models and pin-up calendar girls, his work is intended to provoke a humourous reaction from audiences through its satirical undertones. Ramos often purposely poses the women in his paintings alongside objects that are out of scale and context, as well as mimicing figurative poses found in works by Old Masters, such as Botticelli and Goya. This collection of works includes thirty recent editions of lithographs and high quality silkscreens created by the artist between 1996 and 2009. They express many ironic references to the image of women as projected through advertising culture and mass media in modern consumerist society. This exhibition has been made possible through the generous donation of Ernst Hilger, a gallerist in Vienna, and includes thirteen works from his donated collection. The exhibition is curated by Danielle Kvaran. EF GLACIER Art | Venue finder

ART67 Gallery Kling & Bang The Nordic House Laugavegur 67 | F6 Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Sturlugata 5 | H1 Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Tue–Sun 12–17 ADVENTURES 12 - 16 this.is/klingogbang/ www.nordice.is/ Artótek Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Restaurant Reykjavík AND OTHER EXCITING DAY TOURS Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Gerðuberg 3-5 Vesturgata 2 | D2 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík 871+/-2 www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ www.gerduberg.is Aðalstræti 17 | D2 FROM REYKJAVÍK Artotek Open daily 10–17 Hitt Húsið ASÍ Art Museum – Gallery Tukt Reykjavík Art Gallery Freyugata 41 | G4 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Walk on the Ice side Tue–Sun 13–17 www.hitthusid.is Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 Glacier walk:19.900 ISK Árbæjarsafn i8 Gallery Reykjavík Art Museum Kistuhylur 4 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Open daily 10–16 The Culture House Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Walk through Ice and Fire Hverfisgata 15 | E4 by appointment. www.i8.is Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- ture Museum Sigtún Open daily 11–17 Living Art Museum Glacier walk and hot spring: 22.900 ISK www.thjodmenning.is Hafnarhús Skúlagata 28 | F6 Tryggvagata 17 | D2 Dwarf Gallery Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Kjarvalsstaðir Grundarstígur 21 | H6 13–22. www.nylo.is Flókagata | I7 Opening Hours: Fri and Sat Hafnarborg 18–20 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Strandgötu 34, Grandagarður 8 | C3 www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/ Hafnarfjörður dwarfgallery1.html Reykjavík Museum of Pho- Mokka Kaffi tography The Einar Jónsson Skólavörðustíg 3A | F4 Eiriksgata | G4 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Tue–Sun 14–17 The National Gallery of Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun www.skulptur.is Iceland 13–17 - www.ljosmyndasafn- Spör ehf. Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 reykjavikur.is Gallery Ágúst Tue–Sun 11–17 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Baldursgata 12 | F4 www.listasafn.is Laugarnestangi 70 Wed–Sat 12–17 The National Spark, Design Space ICELANDIC MOUNTAINGUIDES www.galleriagust.is Museum Klapparstíg 33 | E4 Gallery Fold Suðurgata 41 | G1 www.sparkdesignspace.com Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 Open daily 10–17 TEL: +354 587 9999 · mountainguides.is Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / natmus.is Sun 14–16 or visit the ITM INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER, Bankastræti 2 - Downtown www.myndlist.is REVIEWS Soup of the Day A week of warm liquid lunches

It’s that time of the year. Albeit slowly, the days are shrinking and the mercury is dropping. Autumn is upon us, people, and there’s nothing we can do about it. But with the colder, darker days come a wealth of benefits, among them an increased enjoyment of warm and hearty meals to keep your insides toasty even if your outsides aren’t. I’m talking about soup. Sure, it’s a menu staple all year round, but never is it more appreciated than in the colder months of the year, when you shuffle into your favourite eatery, strip off your multiple layers and lift a steaming spoon of the good stuff up toward your chattering teeth. Okay, so it’s not that cold yet, but to prepare you for the dark days into which only a hot liquid meal can bring a modicum of light, we’ve sampled some of the many soup-of-the-day offerings in town so that as autumn continues and winter arrives you can go where the heat is rather than being left out in the cold.

richness. It’s pretty nice. And it was the seafood soup to be flavourless Reviews loaded with veggies—mushrooms, and my mushroom soup followed Catharine Fulton onion, bell peppers, etc.—and large suit. Their redeeming qualities were Photography cubed portions of chicken. Some the ample amounts of seafood and Hörður Sveinsson of the pieces of chicken were rather mushrooms, respectively, therein. dry, while others were appropriately My date, however, struck gold with 0 Should not be considered food tender—were two batches of soup the salsa chicken soup, which she Edible, but not more than once mixed together? I may never know. cheekily topped with tortilla chips, OK; not good, but not horrible either Hressó serves their soup with a side of and coconut curry soup, which was Good, but not great. baguette slices and good ole Icelandic so hearty it likely provided her with Pretty damn good butter; perfect for sopping up the last the recommended eight servings of Extraordinary dregs that your spoon can’t manage. vegetables for the day. I’m typically a sucker to anything coconut based and I Monday – Hressó Tuesday – Kryddlegin was kicking myself for questioning my ( Austurstræti 20) Hjörtu gut. The week was getting off to a good ( Skúlagata 17) We were both pleased with the salad start when I waltzed into Hressó and When the gamble of trudging out of bar, though. Ample crisp spinach spied the soup of the day scrawled on the house, running the risk of the soup and romaine, a nice selection of cold FYRIR barley, rice, and bean salads and super AF MATSEÐLI the blackboard near the entrance— of the day being a dud isn’t appealing yummy spelt bread all complimented 2Í HÁDEGINU ALLA 1DAGA chicken and vegetable (890 kr.): a to you it’s a much safer bet to visit classic mélange. Kryddlegin Hjörtu, where they offer the soups nicely. A few minutes after ordering a not one, nor two, but FOUR soups steaming bowl of creamy soup was of the day (1590 ISK at lunch with Wednesday – placed in front of me. First impression bread and salad bar)! It’s a soup of the Súpabarinn was, quite honestly, ‘damn, it’s cream day buffet! On the day I visited the (Hafnarhús) of chicken!’ but, as is often the case, pickings were coconut curry, seafood When the name of a restaurant has the sushismiðjan I leapt to conclusions too soon. It was soup, mushroom soup and salsa word “soup” in it, you go for the soup. creamy, yes, but this wasn’t a thick and chicken soup. Between my date and That’s what I did, at least. My date was heavy flour-laden cream soup. It was I we tried them all and sampled the otherwise seduced. So when I ordered RESTAURANT somehow lighter, like a simple broth salad bar. my soup and half a sandwich (combo VIÐ SMÁBÁTAHÖFINA with just a dash of cream added for My soups were kinda a bust. I found deal for 1400 kr.) and was presented OPIÐ TIL 22:00

“They put on such a beautiful meal for us. We had the most amazing freshest fish I’ve ever had Hressó Kryddlegin Hjörtu Súpubarinn in my life. It was all so Austurstræti 20 Skúlagata 17 Hafnarhús perfectly cooked too... What we think: Pretty good soup. What we think: Soup, 50/50. What we think: Go for the soup. beautiful!” Flavour: Light yet creamy, with Flavour: It’s a tossup between Flavour: The soup is soup-erb kinda dry chicken. blah and awesome. (get it?), the chilli not so much. Jamie Oliver’s Diary Ambiance: Casual, with a touch Ambiance: Lots of windows and Ambiance: Casual lunch joint in of candlelight. dangling crystals. an art gallery. Good light. Service: Lackadaisical. Service: Friendly. Service: Efficient.

Food & Drink | Venue finder AUSTURSTRÆTI 9. Tel: 561 8555

3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips | E4 Sjávarkjallarinn

EAT and DRINK: with a well proportioned bowl of cream soup was. My thick meat soup tandoori, lentil and coconut soup was equally tasty, though I was not 3 x IcECREAM topped with sour cream and toasted bowled over by the viscosity, which was almonds and sided by a toasted mango a little on the gelatinous side. Still, it 1 búðÍs vesturbæjar chutney and mozzarella sandwich I was full of vegetables and all that meat The undisputed master of Icelandic ice was over the moon. wasn’t overwhelming at all. The Italian cream, Ísbúð Vesturbæjar beckons the Honestly, I had been worried about spices gave the dish a nice kick, too. people of Reykjavík to queue in the wind and the soup maybe tasting too much like While we were far too stuffed to eat rain, cold and less cold for a taste of the old a sauce at an Indian restaurant, but it another bite, it was nice to learn that and new soft serve with toppings and sauces was subtly spiced and the sweetness the soup is refillable… if you haven’t of their choosing. Delish! of the coconut peeked through the already eaten your bowl. Hagamel 67, 107 Reykjavík tandoori beautifully. It was also loaded with lentils and vegetables and, F riday – Café D’Haiti 2 eoskTh Ki in Ingólfstorg luckily for my date, was super filling ( Geirsgata 7b) It’s your ice cream fix in the heart of 101. The so she got to eat my sandwich (also a Distinguishing itself from the other bonus feature of this place is that you can gorgeous combination of sweet and order your ice cream to look like a smiley soup-of-the-day joints that are shilling spicy chutney with crisp red onion and face… ya know, if you’re into that. restaurant quality soup, the recently chewy mozzarella) when her “daily Ingólfstorg relocated Café D’Haiti is offering special” (also 1400 kr.) was a total up something that tastes more like bust. The place is named for soup— home. The soup on Friday was Belize 3 10/11 ordering chilli that was thicker than vegetable (750 ISK) and was it ever Okay, so it’s not nice fresh soft serve, but grandma’s favourite oatmeal and oddly good. Rather than coming across as 10/11 on Austurstræti stocks a rather laced with super sweet pineapple is a a run of the mill cream of vegetable impressive freezer case of ice cream in more rooky mistake. The chilli didn’t even soup, this offering was a hearty puree flavours than you’ll find at the parlours. come topped with cheese. Lame. of real veggies dotted with larger Austurstræti 17 chunks of peppers of all colours. The Thursday – Svarta Kaffi real clincher, however, was the spice. 3 x FISH ( Laugavegur 54) Is it nutmeg? The chef says ‘no’. A hint 1 Ristorante Italiano Rather than serving soup with side of mustard seed? No. All I could get MELABÚÐIN of bread, Svarta Kaffi does away with out of the tight-lipped Francophone is Isn’t it nice to walk up to a counter at a the bowl and dishes their soups (two that it’s a secret blend of spices. It’s no grocery store and there is somebody on the flavours are available daily) directly secret that it’s delicious and whatever other side to serve you an assortment of fresh into a hollowed out loaf of whole-wheat the blend is, it tastes like autumn and fish. It’s reasonably priced, too. (1390 ISK). On the day my date and Hagamelur 39 Madonna warms all the senses simultaneously. I made our way up Laugavegur the The soup can be combined with a soups on offer were creamy mushroom salad for 1250 ISK, but my date and I 2 KOLAPORTIÐ and an Italian meat soup with lamb, opted for a slice of quiche (500 ISK) Reykjavík’s weekly flea market boasts an pork and beef (woah!) and loads of each instead. Here we were slightly expansive fish and meat section. Often some veggies. My date was enamoured torn, as I found my slice to be slightly of the mongers are offering 2 for 1 on fillets of with her mushroom concoction, loose and bland. She ate hers up. Loose frozen fish. Sweet deal! gushing over how ample the slices of quiche or not, it was a satisfying meal. Tryggvagata 19 mushroom were and how tasty the 6 course 3 skbúðinFi Freyjugötu Icelandic seafood soup, seafood This quintessential Icelandic fish store offers Seafood Lunch Buffet pizza and a variety of fish dishes. up a fresh catch of the day as well as pre- Only 2.690 kr Lunch Buffet 11:30 - 14.30 made fish dishes that just need to be tossed in the oven. Freyjugata 1 Madonna Rauðarárstíg 27 445-9500 www.madonna.is 3 x KIOSKS

1 RÍKIÐ This isn’t a cramped “just the basics” kiosk. Ríkið is spacious and stocks a wide selection of household goods, movies and food, including a large counter for ordering burgers, hotdogs and the likes. Snorrabraut 56

Svarta Kaffi Café D’Haiti 2 DREKINN Laugavegur 54 Geirsgata 7b The selection, like this kiosk, is small, but it still manages to have the bare necessities What we think: Really nice soup What we think: Homey and to suit your needs—especially your snacking and great bread, too. hearty soup needs. Rumour had it that Drekinn stocks Flavour: Balanced. Flavour: Impeccably spiced and Reeses Peanut Butter Cups, though I’ve yet to natural tasting. find them there. Ambiance: Cosy, with big Njálsgata 23 windows for people watching. Ambiance: Bright and airy space. Service: SO friendly and attentive! Service: Friendly and hospitable. 3 lnSö utur Grundarstíg This Grundarstígur mainstay once sold the cheapest cigarettes in town. Cigarette prices R F EY O K have been raised in recent months, but the T J S A pleasant memory remains. Plus this little shop E V B Í K

E makes a pretty good hotdog and has a wide 2

H 0

selection of candy. 0 Grundarstígur 12

B D ES O Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavik, Tel. 6185071/8939693, www.dillrestaurant.is T SEAFO

We exceed high expectations

Open for bistro style lunch every day from 11.30–14.00 and dinner wednesday to saturday from 19.00–22.00 Fire is needed by the newcomer Whose knees are frozen numb; Meat and clean linen a man needs Who has fared across the fells.*

The Icelandic Sheep, Keeping the people alive since 874 AD.

*From the Hávamál, 1300 AD

I c e l a n d i c Sheep Farmers [email protected] / photo: ÁJS