3.11 Chemistry of Cosmetics Masahiro Ota and Mineyuki Yokoyama, Shiseido Co., Ltd., Yokohama, Japan
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
3.11 Chemistry of Cosmetics Masahiro Ota and Mineyuki Yokoyama, Shiseido Co., Ltd., Yokohama, Japan ª 2010 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. 3.11.1 Introduction 317 3.11.2 History of Cosmetics and Natural Products 317 3.11.3 Pharmaceutical Affairs Law in Japan and Its Relevance to Natural Products 319 3.11.4 Skin-Whitening Cosmetics 322 3.11.5 Antiaging Cosmetics 327 3.11.6 Hair Growth Promoters 333 3.11.7 Plant Cell/Tissue Culture Technology for Natural Products in Cosmetics 337 3.11.7.1 Potential of Plant Cell/Tissue Culture for Cosmetic Application 337 3.11.7.2 Micropropagation 339 3.11.7.3 Root Culture 340 3.11.7.4 Biotransformation Techniques with Plant Cell Culture 341 3.11.7.5 Miscellaneous 345 3.11.8 Conclusion 346 References 347 3.11.1 Introduction Cosmetics have a deep relation to natural products. It is true that there are many cosmetic products that have catchphrases or selling points claiming 100% pure natural ingredients; however, it is impossible to make cosmetics without natural products, regardless of such catchphrases. Hence, as regards natural products, no one is in doubt about the notion that they are something that cannot be done away with in cosmetics. The role of natural products in medicines is as one of the sources of lead compounds in the research and development of modern medicines, but in cosmetics natural products themselves are combined as ingredients, although there may be similar cases in medical research process too. In general the categories of cosmetics are limited only by people’s imagination. As for the definition of cosmetics, we can suggest some categories from the point of view of a cosmetics company’s research worker, as shown in Table 1.1 It may indicate that cosmetics encompass a wider variety of items than you would have expected. It will be unreasonable to expect us to discuss all categories of cosmetics in this chapter owing to the limitation on space. Hence, first we would like to discuss the history of cosmetics and their relationship with natural products. We outline the natural products that are being used for cosmetics manufacture, conforming to the regulations under the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law in Japan. Furthermore, we would like to focus on the cosmetics categories called advanced cosmetics or cosmecuticals, which have drug-like benefits and belong to the category of quasi-drugs, products that fall between drugs and cosmetics, especially skin-whitening cosmetics, antiaging ones, and hair growth promoters. Finally, plant cell/ tissue culture technology is described, together with the illustration of some important natural products used in cosmetics. 3.11.2 History of Cosmetics and Natural Products The ancient Chinese pharmacopoeia, The Divine Farmer’s Herb-Root Classic, attributed to Shen Nong (3494 BC), who tasted and tested plants, includes 365 medicines derived from minerals, plants, and animals2. They are classified into three kinds depending on their effect. Of these, 120 items are categorized as natural and nonpoisonous. Another 120 items are a little poisonous and are used for prevention of illness. The remaining 125 items are poisonous and are used for treatment.3,4 This kind of classification, owing to its virulence and 317 318 Chemistry of Cosmetics Table 1 Broad categorization of cosmetics Classification Usage Main products For skin Skin care cosmetics Cleansers Face cleansing creams and foams Conditioners Lotions, packs, massage creams Protectors Milky lotions, moisture creams Makeup cosmetics Base makeup Foundations, face powders Point makeup Lipstick, blushers, eye shadow, eye liners Nail care Nail enamels, nail polish removers Body cosmetics Bath Soaps, liquid cleansers, bath preparations Sun cares and suntans Sunscreen creams, sun oils Antiperspirants and deodorants Deodorant sprays Bleaching, depilatory Bleaching creams, depilatory creams Insect repellents Insect repellent lotions and sprays For hair and Hair care cosmetics Cleansing Shampoos scalp Treatments Rinses, hair treatments Hair styling Hair mousses, hair liquids, pomades Permanent waves Permanent wave lotions Hair colors and bleaches Hair colors, hair bleaches, color rinses Scalp care cosmetics Hair growth promoters Hair growth promoters, hair tonics Treatments Scalp treatments Oral Oral care cosmetics Toothpastes Toothpastes Mouthwashes Mouthwashes Fragrances Fragrances Perfumes, Eau de Colognes efficacy, is believed to have been one of the sources of information in selecting suitable natural products for cosmetics during a period when scientific toxicity assessment of today was nonexistent. The ancient European pharmacopoeia De Materia Medica, by Pedanius Dioscorides, comprises the description of around 600 plants and is known as the root of western herbs. It was the only representative pharmacopoeia until modern medicine was reconstructed in Europe. Ayurveda is traditional Indian medicine and was established around 3000–2000 BC. The word ‘Ayurveda’ is a tatpurusha (compound word) composed of the word ayus meaning ‘life’ or ‘longevity’ and the word veda, which refers to a system of ‘knowledge’. Hence ‘Ayurveda’ roughly translates as the ‘knowledge of a long life’. The classic in Ayurveda, Charaka Samhita, attributed to Charaka includes 500 plants and their applications.5 The oldest Japanese pharmacopoeia in existence, Ishin-hou, is composed of 30 volumes referring to Chinese literature. It describes as good manners keeping one’s skin-white using a mixture of Aurantii nobilis pericarpium, Benincasae semen, and peach branch. In those days, beauty culture and natural products were closely related, and it can be assumed that a fair-skinned face was already as preferable as it is nowadays. Much of the philosophy of traditional medicine making use of natural products, especially plants, brought a health benefit to people both in the East and in the West. People today use natural products in their daily life, inspired by the experience, knowledge, and wisdom of their ancestors. All over the world, when did people begin to use them in cosmetics, based on these facts? It is difficult to answer this question properly, but archaeological excavations have revealed that they were used in the Paleolithic era. Thus we can assume that cosmetics have so long a history as the development and prosperity of humankind. Egyptians and Arabians have used ointment cosmetics since 4000 years ago. According to some sources, around 2920 BC cosmetics were developed from materials like tar or mercury, and around 1930 BC perfumes were already being traded in Egypt. It is presumed that Egyptian civilization brought about the development of cosmetics in those days. Japan’s traditional cosmetics in the Edo period are believed to have been composed of three basic colors—red, white, and black. Especially, red cosmetics were important in glamorizing facial appearance. Cosmetics use spread among the general public and became an essential behavior in daily life, not being limited to the upper classes such as the aristocracy. Thus, as the demand for cosmetics increased, the cultivation of safflower, biennial herb of Compositae, which is an ingredient of red cosmetics, increased. But as the extracts from home- grown safflower were insufficient and expensive, safflower grown in Egypt was used as an alternative, which Chemistry of Cosmetics 319 was introduced to Japan through India, Central Asia, and China. Both in the East and in the West, women have always longed for a white complexion. In Japan, right from ancient times, clay, corn flour, light powder (calomel), white lead, and chalk were used by women to make their face appear white. Originally, calomel was developed in ancient China, and lead white (basic lead carbonate) was first made around the fourth century BC in Greece. As light powder was effective in the treatment of syphilis and was promulgated as something to get rid of lice, it was known as a medicine rather than as a cosmetic in China. Bactericidal properties of mercury have been empirically exploited. Regarding black color cosmetics, there was a custom tooth dye in black, which is called ohaguro in Japan. The origin of the use of ohaguro is uncertain. Some people say that the custom traveled from a race in the South that dyes their teeth black, while others say that it is a practice that has Japan as its home country.6 Powdered gall and water were used for dying the teeth black. Powdered gall originates from gall made in the bark of anacardiaceous tree, containing tannin. People of those times understood that the powdered gall was effective not only for dying the teeth, but also for curing bleeding from the gums. Actually vasoconstrictive effect and hemostatic action were attributed to the presence of tannin. Although today fragrance is one of the categories of cosmetics, the original type of fragrance, incense, has a long history in Japan, coming out first on record in Chronicles of Japan, in the year 595. Incense, which is essential for the ceremony of purging the Buddhist altar, had started to be used in Japan since the introduction of Buddhism in the beginning of the sixth century. It had much religious significance, but according to the historical materials written in 747, Ehi incense, which was a mixture of six or seven kinds of incenses, used to be burned with clothes or Buddhist scriptures and was used as bug repellent, being inducted into daily necessities. The ingredients of Ehi incense included agalloch of Thymelaeaceae; wood sandal of Santalaceae evergreen tree; clove, which is the floral bud of Syzygium aromaticum or Eugenia caryophyllata; spikenard oil, which is the extract of dry root or dry rhizome of valerianaceous plants; musk, which is extracted from the fragrance pouch of the male musk deer and dried; and ambergris, which is a waxy secreted material obtained from sperm whale. In ancient China, a preparation that combined 10–30 kinds of crude drugs such as soybean, red azuki bean, chalk, root of the crow gourd, sandalwood, and musk was used as washing charge.