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Eastern

Includes  Why Go? ...... 265 The eastern edge of Tuscany is beloved by film directors who ...... 271 have immortalised its landscape and medieval hilltop towns ...... 276 in several critically acclaimed and visually splendid films. Yet the region remains bereft of tourist crowds and offers Castiglion Fiorentino ...... 281 quiet trails for those savvy enough to explore here – or those simply in search of peace, tranquillity and mountains of nat- ...... 281 ural beauty. Attractions are many and varied: spectacular mountain scenery and walks in the Casentino; magnificent art and architecture in the medieval cities of Arezzo, Sanse- polcro and Cortona; one of ’s most significant Catho- Best Places to Eat lic pilgrimage sites, Assisi; and Tuscany’s best bistecca alla ¨¨Le Chiavi d’Oro (p270) fiorentina (chargrilled T-bone steak) in the Val di Chiana. ¨¨Il Cedro (p276) Your travels may be solitary and, for the most part, you’ll need your own wheels to get around – but they’ll always be ¨¨Ristorante Da Muzzicone rewarding. (p281) ¨¨Mest Osteria (p270) ¨¨Beerbone Artburger (p282) ¨¨Cremì (p270) Road Distances (km)

Arezzo 94

Best Hidden Cortona 65 29 Gems Sansepolcro 76 38 52 ¨¨Santuario della Verna (p277) Poppi 132 36 62 71 ¨¨Museo Michelangeliolesco (p280) ¨¨Sacro Eremo e Monastero di Camaldoli (p280) ¨¨Museo Madonna del Parto (p275) Assisi Arezz o Cortona Sansepolcr o ¨¨Il Cedro (p276) ¨¨Osteria dell’Acquolina (p271) 265 Eastern Tuscany Arezzo - - ­ -

. Painted . Painted Cortona Duomo , where Anthony Min- Anthony where , - masterpiec admire to ), ), allowing time for time for allowing (p281), Parco Nazionale delle delle Nazionale Parco . (p277 ); see where Arezzo-born paint Arezzo-born where ); see ) in the (p281). (p268 Cappella Bacci Cappella (p277 Two of the best-loved scenes depict of the best-loved the Two This is as entertaining medieval legend as greatest works: Piero della Francesca’s fresco Francesca’s della Piero works: greatest cycle of the Legend of the True Cross storythe relates it of 1466, and 1452 between Christ on which the cross Only was crucified. mak in every are allowed 25 people hour, half terful depiction of the nocturnal light); and Constantine carrying the cross into battle. meeting of Sheba and King of the Queen on half she is kneeling the first Solomon. In and meeting the Siloam River over a bridge with the king; are she and her attendants depictedRenaissance-stylerich wearing King Solomon’s the second half, In gowns. palace seems to be modelled on the designs of notable architect Alberti. Leon Battista ing advance booking (by telephone or email)(by booking advance ing ishigh season. Theessential in ticket office entrance. down the stairs by the basilica’s The follow theit is inconceivable. illustrations story Seth that of the tree plants on the grave which the True from Adam, and father, his of shows the long-lostCross is made. One scene mother by Helena, cross being rediscovered the of the emperor Constantine; behind her, is pictured as a medieval of Jerusalem city viewvictorythe show Other scenes Arezzo. of king Khosrau, the Persian over of Heraclius who had been accused of stealing the cross; Constantine sleeping in a tent on the eve of mas (note Piero’s with Maxentius his battle - - CH Castiglion Fiorentino Castiglion Piazza

CHUR ), well placed between Arezzo and Arezzo between placed well (p281), 9am-6pm . Day one, explore the historic streets and piazzas and piazzas streets the historic explore one, Day . h (stroll).

This chapel, Basilica di San di Basilica Arezzo Santuario della Verna della Santuario Ristorante Da Muzzicone Da Ristorante Val di Chiana di Val .30pm Sun) .it; .pierodellafrancesca www

adult/reduced €8/5; adult/reduced Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pieve (p280) and

, safeguards one of Italian art’s art’s Italian of one safeguards , 30pm Sat, 1-5 .30pm Sat, ) and Sights Cappella Bacci 0575 35 27 27; 35 27 0575 Once an important post, Etruscan trading church its for known is city the Today, THREE PERFECT DAYS PERFECT THREE er, architect and art historian Vasari lived and worked; and pay homage to Piero della Piero to homage and pay and worked; lived Vasari and art historian architect er, Francesco’s di San in Basilica genius Francesca’s (p269 ) and also en route to central Tuscany. Home to apple orchards, olive groves and groves olive apple orchards, Home to Tuscany. central to en route (p281) and also off-the-beaten- invites the valley graze, Chianina cattle white creamy where lush pastures town hilltop Explore meanderings. track (Life is Beautiful). Pop into the filmed La Benigni into vita Roberto Pop è bellawhere is Beautiful). (Life Day Three dip into three, day On Tuscany’s most famous family of sculptors, the Della Robbias, took ceramics way beyond beyond way ceramics took Robbias, the Della sculptors, of family famous most Tuscany’s for churches sculptures devotional magnificent creating in the 15th century, teacups at monasteries visiting the medieval to day second your Devote Tuscany. throughout Camaldoli Day Two Day One in set films are major Two The English Patient English The of scene memorable the most ghella shot es in glazed terracotta by the family’s most famous member, Andrea (1435–1525). Andrea member, famous most the family’s by terracotta in glazed es a meaty lunch stop at lunch stop a meaty Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna e Falterona Monte Casentinesi, Foreste % AREZZO POP 99,540 POP in the apse of 14th-century Francesco 1 o ( ) spills each month. Comefair (p270) spills tiques Arezzo) spill alongdusk, Arentini (locals of for the Italia Corso shop-clad of length the ritual late-afternoon passeggiata es, museums and fabulously sloping Piazza sloping fabulously and museums es, an (p269), across which a huge Grande Arezzo may not be a Tuscan centrefold, Tuscan not be a may Arezzo parts those but historicits of thatcentre survived are as merciless WWII bombings in the region destination as any compelling itas beautiful as is square central city’s the – La film classic appears in ’s vita è bella (Life is Beautiful). absorbed into the Romanlater Arezzo was 10thas the early as Empire. A free republic it supported cause the Ghibelline century, pope and between in the violent battles byemperor and was eventually subjugated in 1384. Mon-Fri, to 5 to Mon-Fri, San Francesco; San