INSIDE: An Outsider Learns An Insider’s Cheat Sheet to Milan 2 to Love MILAN Rome Film Festival 6 and Become a New Capri Hotel 6 CITY INSIDER Ceretto Opens Alba Restaurant 7 ften considered the ugly step- sister of Italy, Milan does have Courtesy of Harvey Loomis Poggio Bustone Oits merits. The locomotive of the peninsula, she hums with finance, fashion, publishing and manufacturing industries. That buzz dream of can make it a great place to visit, or even live. Really. I came to Milan from the U.S. near- ly 10 years ago, to intern at an Italian television station. After four years of kicking around Florence, I welcomed “the big city” ITALYVolume 5, Issue 1 www.dreamofitaly.com February 2006 but found my affection was not returned. Perhaps because I was liv- ing in a dormitory run by nuns with an 8 p.m. curfew, somewhat at odds On the Road with with the Milano da bere, the “drinking Milan,” a nickname coined in the St. Francis of Assisi high-flying 1980s. I stuck it out, left the convent and eventually weaned early five million visitors, On behalf of Dream of Italy, travel writer myself off vending machine caffè mac- including many clergy and Barrie Kerper recently caught up with chiato that had been a main form of N pilgrims, come to Assisi award-winning journalist Linda Bird sustenance when I didn’t have a (Umbria) each year to pray in Francke, author of the newly kitchen. And learned to like it. the birthplace of Francis or released On the Road with Francesco — Italy’s patron Francis of Assisi: A Timeless For starters, 1.3 million people live saint and the founder of three Journey Through Umbria and here and there aren’t any Milanese. ongoing Franciscan orders — Tuscany, and Beyond (Random Or very few. Since the 1950s, Italians and Clare, Francis’s spiritual House, 2005) to discuss her own from other parts of the country have companion and the first saint- visit to Assisi and travels through come here seeking a better life. They ed member of his Order of Poor Italy chronicling the travels of St. are considered forestieri, a word Ladies. Assisi is second only to Francis. Monstersandcritics.com translated as both “outsider” and Rome as an Italian pilgrimage has hailed Francke’s book as “foreigner,” so it is fairly easy to destination, but it is equally “a winning combination of trave- make friends. Italians who cannot appealing for travelers with logue and religious biography,” rely on la mamma to iron their under- less exalted interests: Umbrian culinary and it’s a great companion for one’s own wear are a more approachable breed. specialties are just as delicious as those in journeys in the Spoleto Valley and beyond. neighboring Tuscany, and the early In fact, the whole concept of Milanesi, Renaissance frescoes in the Basilica of St. DOI: You’ve worked on the memoirs as locals are known, is somewhat Francis by Simone Martini, Pietro of some of the world’s most powerful nebulous. The Celts set up shop Lorenzetti, Cimabue, and, especially, and privileged women — Queen Noor here in 7th century B.C., calling it Giotto, are stunning, most worthy of a of Jordan, Rosalynn Carter, Diane von Mediolanum (mid-plain). Trashed first detour. continued on page 4 continued on page 3 Construction on the Basilica of St. Francis began in 1228. AN INSIDER’S CHEAT SHEET TO MILAN WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO EAT WHERE TO SHOP HOTEL STRAF PIZZA OK Window shop on Via Monte Napoleone, but get your Via San Raffaele, 3 Via Lambro, 15 designer gear like the Milanese do, at a discount. (39) 02 805081 (39) 02 29401272 www.straf.it Closed Sunday at lunch. IL SALVAGENTE You don’t have to be a Prada-clad minimalist to get this Pies with ultra-thin crust star at this straightforward Via F.lli Bronzetti, 16 hotel, but it helps. Bare concrete, slate fixtures, shiny red pizzeria in the Porta Venezia area. It is easy on the budget (39) 02 76110328 wall hangings are all features. Straf doesn’t have the musty and attracts a young crowd. Try the gorgonzola and feel of many expensive hotels in the Duomo area and it pear pizza. Dinner for two runs about 25€. Top names (Armani,Versace, Dolce & Gabbana) and great has broadband access. Rates: A double room starts at prices for men and women; during twice yearly sales 267€ per night, with breakfast. EDA (January and August) be prepared to rumble. Via Filippino Lippi, 7 ANTICA LOCANDA DEI MERCANTI (39) 02 26681962 DIFFUSIONE TESSILE Via San Tomaso, 6 www.edamilano.com Galleria San Carlo, 6 (39) 02 8054080 (39) 02 76000829 This hot spot near the train station has the regulation DJ, www.locanda.it www.diffusionetessile.it gloomy lighting and a tiered seating system with viciously Located halfway between the Duomo and Castello Sforzesco, contested hierarchies. The Sicilian-influenced food is Wander down toward Piazza S. Babila after eyeing the this is a centrally-located and reasonably-priced hotel with fabulous, dahling. Black tagliatelle with zucchini flowers and Duomo. This small store sells all the Max Mara lines enough charm for a romantic stay. Rates: A double bottarga (fish eggs) or ziti with fresh sardines and (Maxsport, Studiomax, Penny Black) heavily discounted. room starts at 150€ per night, without breakfast. wild fennel make it worth a trip. Dinner for two will set you back about 80€. KITCHEN 2 ALBERGO ARENA HOTEL Via Giulianova, 2 PRINCI Via De Amicis, 45 (39) 02 8692015 Largo la Foppa, 2 (39) 02 58102849 (39) 02 6599013 www.kitchenweb.it A no-frills hotel with 1970s decor (and unfortunately bath- Piazza XXV Aprile rooms), this is an inexpensive place to stay in the chic This temple to cooking proves just how seriously Italians (39) 02 290 60832 Brera neighborhood. Skip the hotel breakfast and walk take cooking. A sleek space in the Navigli area houses www.princi.it down Corso Garibaldi to Princi instead. Rates: A double some 3,000 utensils, 1,500 cookbooks and a large stock of Open every day and until 3 a.m. on Saturday night. room starts at 100€ per night, with breakfast. specialty foods from around Italy. Finally, a bakery in Italy that serves drinks. This break from tradition makes Princi popular and always packed. Last season’s Miu Miu shoes and Fendi ties can be The Brera locations (there are five total in Milan) are my spied among the fruit stands at these markets: favorites. In the first, sit down with a cappuccino and brioche for no extra charge, in the second go for an Viale Papiniano aperitif and free nibbles (pizza, focaccia, grissini) straight (all day Saturday) from the wood-burning oven. Via Calvi (Thursday morning) VICTORIA CAFFE Hotel Straf (above) and Via Clerici, 1 Via Fauchè Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti (Tuesday and Saturday morning) (at right) (39) 02 02 8053598 www.victoriacaffe.it The pre-dinner aperitivo (or apero) is a key fixture of Milanese life. Serious cocktails (negroni, mojito, caipirinha) and enough free food to skip dinner (risotto, focaccia, pasta) make it a local ritual worth exploring. This art-deco gem near the Duomo is a good alternative to the anonymous and expensive cafés in the center. Cocktails are 6€. Victoria Caffe 1 € = $1.21 at press time “I loved listening to the sound of Milan, and wa Milan continued from page 1 by the Goths in 600 A.D., then con- Start at the tourist office in Piazza quered by Roman Emperor Barbarossa Duomo, ask for a free copy of Milano in 1158, the city changed hands (and Mese (available online at www.milano cultural identity) under French, infotourist.com), in somewhat choppy Spanish and Austrian rule until the English, and grab a copy of English- reunification of Italy in 1870. Milan language monthly Hello Milano (also changed face again during World War online www.hellomilano.it) to see what’s II, when the Allies reduced more than on and for museum information. Even a quarter of the city to rubble. with rudimentary Italian, it is worth Duomo looking at the free local dailies, City, Despite pulling nearly the same eco- Leggo and Metro, found at bus stops or nomic weight as Rome, Milan is com- in the metro, or the local sections of pact and fairly easy to navigate. I live Il Corriere della Sera or La Repubblica. near Sempione Park and get around by Give Milan a chance and you may bike (an extreme sport not for the come to love her as I have. uninitiated) but metro and trams are —Nicole Martinelli reliable and taxis are not expensive for in-town jaunts. Most of the center can Nicole Martinelli, a freelance journalist in Italy since also be done comfortably by foot, for 1991, is the editor of zoomata.com the comfortably shod: the rocky pavé Board Tourism Italian Government (as the 18th century street stones are La Scala called) is a waiting, vindictive trap for stilettos and slippery soles. dream of 3 The bull’s eye design of the centro stori- co was probably helpful discouraging further invasions but can also put off € ITALY visitors; 1 on the local transport (ATM) map is money well spent. Sold Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief in cafés and newsstands, look for the Board Tourism Italian Government Board Tourism Italian Government Castello Sforzesco orange cover and ATM symbol. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe toes, is not a pleasant experience. Visits Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher Design: Leaird Designs Milan has enough monuments, artistic to the Last Supper must be reserved in www.leaird-designs.com knick-knacks and points of interest for advance (www.cenacolovinciano.org), a few days’ visit: the Duomo (world’s sometimes weeks ahead, same for Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year.