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Mario Onnaza, 30, the boyfriend of another first cousin, was my nexr recruir. He'd studied at the Culir.raryInstitute ofArnerica, but more inrportant, he knew pig. He knew where to source it. He knew how to seasonit. And he knew how to spit-roastthe 95-pounder we'd be serving at the Feast. Fritter duty went to Ronnie'saunt Maresa Rodriguez, or TVtiMare as t.) we calI her,72, who raught me to appreciarePuerto Rico's fried delights *,/ ..,*4; t on coLrntlessroad trips rhroughout the islar.rd,stopping offat one beach- Jrtt''' sidekiosko after the next. And cousin Roxana Matienzo, a 5O-somethine ttt attonrev and author, agreed to show me how to makepnsteles.
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