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#ffi4 COCINA CRIOLLA, AS PUERTO RICANS CALL IT,IS FULL OF GUILTY PLEASURES- STARCHY VEGETABLES, FATTY MEATS,ANDALL MANNEROF THINGS DEEP.FRIED
;re (continttedfr"on pltge 89) Julie Carri6n, 36, born ir.rSan Juan, is a tal- ented catererwhose training brought her through the kitchens ofchefs a -** like Anita l.o and Daniel Boulud in New York Citv. Mario Onnaza, 30, the boyfriend of another first cousin, was my nexr recruir. He'd studied at the Culir.raryInstitute ofArnerica, but more inrportant, he knew pig. He knew where to source it. He knew how to seasonit. And he knew how to spit-roastthe 95-pounder we'd be serving at the Feast. Fritter duty went to Ronnie'saunt Maresa Rodriguez, or TVtiMare as
t.) we calI her,72, who raught me to appreciarePuerto Rico's fried delights *,/ ..,*4; t on coLrntlessroad trips rhroughout the islar.rd,stopping offat one beach- Jrtt''' sidekiosko after the next. And cousin Roxana Matienzo, a 5O-somethine ttt attonrev and author, agreed to show me how to makepnsteles. .orn"l thing she'd learned from her parenrs. "We make a parry of the rvhole process,"Roxana told n-re. A ferv days befbre the feast, I found out what she meant. A slew of cousinsjoined in and we sippedchampagne as we peeledgreen bananas arrd yarrtia for the pasreles'filling ir.rRoxana's kitchen. The palm trees outside flr.rtteredas nguinaldos,traditional Christmas sonss, blared through the speakers.Neighbors and relativeswandered ir.rand out to have a drink and lend a hand. After the greenbananas and yautia l-radbeen purded and blendedwith n-rilk to make a smooth masa,we hacked banana leavesfrom Roxana's garden and boiled then.runtil pliant. We added her signarurerouches ro the filling-rnarcona almonds, palm dates,chickpeas, and olives.Then rve fell into an assembly line. \i7e cur rhe banana leavesinto squares, placed them on foii, and brushed them with achiote oil. Down the lir.re. we filled thern with green banana and yautia paste; added the sautded pork filling; and then folded them inro perfect rectangles.We pinched the foil tight befbre tying them witl.r strins. Brush, fiil, fold, tie. We did this about ten dozen times. As a reward for our hard work, we boiled a test batch for ourselvesand enjoyed them in the garden as night fell. The following day,Julie and I n-radea final shopping trip for the feasr at the Plazadel Mercado in Santurce,a lgth-century market building in a residentialpart of tl.recapital, which housesa dozen or so of the city's \We best produce vendors. hauled out our bount1,,stopping ro order ir couple of mango barldas (shakes)from a fruit srand or-rtsiderhe Mer-
From top: chickenand root vegetablesoup, at KasaltaBakery in SanJuan (see a recipeon page98); hot saucesat a food truck nearLuquillo Beach;a codfish fritter with cod salsa(see a recipeon page96), Facingpage: the author'scousin- inlaw CecilianaCarri6n wrapspasteles (see a recipeon page98). "6
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+'a{'fft +;* f.f:,€- . -s:* cado, then drove to my morher-inlawt home, where Julie, Ronnie, and to overcook." He lit the coals, and about 20 r.ninuteslater, the pig was I cooked late into the n ight, serenaded by a chorus of chirping t.oqtrh, placed in the box; he covered the top wirh corrugated meral, then sat the musical tree frogs of the island. .We knocked holes into coconurs, vigilantlv bv its side for the next six hours, tuming rhe pig from side to extracted the water, and opened a stubborn few by slamming them on side to releaseits greaseand distribute its juices. \We the ground. scooped our rhe meat, then grated and strained it to The smell of coal and pork wafted into the kitchen asJulie and I got to make coconut milk. We ser some of the milk in the fiidee ro rhicken work on the arroz congandu/es, cooking rhe rice in a caldero,or cast-iron into temblequr- the dessert,and mixed tVe the rest with conlensed milk, pot. dressedrhe dish with sour orange vinaigrette; pu thepastele: eggs,and rum for coquito. Next, we peeled and boiled green bananas on to boil; let the guineossit at room temperarure;grated some coconur until they had the perfect al dente rexrure and marinated rhem with on top of the tembleque; and shook the coquito until frothy. red onion, olives,and sherry vinegar for guineos.\Wemade an enormous Titi Mare came soon after and started in on the frituras as more fam- amounr of sofrito-the baseto practically every rice, soup, and srew in ily arrived. It was a beautiful Puerto Rican *inr..i, afrernoon: The sun Puerto Rican cuisine-which is an essentialcomponent in manv of was shining, the sky was blue, the temperature was a mild, breezy g0 our holiday dishes.Ours was a slow-cooked blend of or-,ion,,*..t ,r,d degrees. Titi friedup almojribanas,rice-four rounds with cheese;her son hor aji peppers,garlic, oil, and plenty of culanrro, a robust herb with Felipes signature croquetasde pollo, with a creamy chicken center; and a deeper flavor than its cousin, cilantro. As the sofrito cooked down. yautia, rhe densesrfi"ituraof the bunch. I shurtled rhem to the guests, taking on a deeply sweer aroma, I refected on how rheseingredients, who were welcoming each other with hearty embraces.Ronnie tended which I once consideredso foreign, were now asfamiliar to me as Ron- bar, doling our wine, Cuba libres, and short glassesof coquito. nie and his family. When the pig was ready,Mario butcheredthe browned beast,and we laid the food on a buffet table. The cuerito (lrowncrispy skin) and rhe Tnr Nnxr MoRNTNG w'E vERE awakened by Mariot truck horn, earswere the first to go. The loin wasjuicy, the ribs sublime. Theguineos which he was excitedly honking. He had arrived with the hulking pig had the perfect acidic sting; thepasteles were golden as we unfoldJ their that would be the centerpieceof our meal, tied to a spit, in the baik of wrapping. I was proud of our feasr:The rice went quickly, and familv his pickup. He had purchased our lechdn two da1,searlier from a farmer members scraped up the pegao, the coveted crispy bits at the bottom of in nearby Trujillo Alto, and then seasoned it by cutting slits under the the pot. The rcmblequrtasted as fresh as a newly opened coconur. legsand stuffing them with garlic, salt, pepper, and oregano.To further As the party wound down, I poured myself a glassof wine and took flavor and tenderize the pig, he rubbed the rest of it with sour orange my spot at the domino table. I had earned a reputation as a formidable juice, squeezedfrom an especiallytart variety ofcirrus callednara,lia player,schooled by the family champions oue. ihe years.As the sun set, agriathat he'd picked from treesin his garden. and laughter rose over the clack-clack-clackof rhe tiles, my morher-in- A handmade galvanized-steelsmoker waired on tl.regrass for Mario law made a roasrro me for a successfulparty. I recognizedher approving to load with coal, which he placed at strategic corners ar the bottom. smile. She had inherited it from her aunts, Goyin and Rosita, the uery "You start cooking near rhe legs, at the ends, then move the coal over oneswho marveled two decadesprior at my embracing of their nephew, to the middle," he told me, "becauseyou don't wanr rhe ribs and loin their culture, and cuisine-p astelesand aIL h
The Guide San Juan, Puerto Rico Dittner with tlrinksnnd tip: Inexpensive$10-$25 Moder"te $25-$50 ExpensiveOver $50
Visitors to San during the holi- (787/724-16;07). Juan San Francisco Inex- Caf6 Puerto P.ico 208 Calle T}iINGSTOFO days are apt ro run into celebrations pensiue.-fhis diner-like spot in Old O'Donnell (787/724-225 I ; cafepuer Fiestas de le Calle San Sebas- whcrever they go. To plarr a rrip ro SanJuan is the localchoice for break- rorito.rom). Modamre. Th is restau- ti6n O/c/ Sau Juau, January l2-15, Puerto Rico, visirscepuerrorico.conr. fr.sr.Vereren servcrs. clad in paper rant, ser inside a quaint Old San 20 12 (sansepr.ning.com).This three- hats,vests, and bowties, plaremall- towr-rhouse,turns or.lt Juan excellent day street party in Old San Juan WHERETOSTAY orcas,doughy buns topped with local lare.Try their seasonal"holiday signalsthe end of the holiday scason. Tres Palmas Inn 2212 park Bou- powderedsugar. plate," complerc with pasteles,arroz Calle San Sebasti;inmay be the hub of le ua rd (8 66/3 72 -5 62 7; t respaI m asi n n. con gandules, morcilla, and lechdn. tlte action. but dlncing, mrrsic,srreer corn). Doubles fr"om $109. Tropical Kasalta Bakery 1966 Ca//e food, and masked parades are found colors and island art decoratethe l8 McLear-y(7 B 'Waterfront 7/72 7-734 0 ; kasaha. co m ). Carretera lB7, km 5, throughout the old city. roonls ar this beachfronr inn in the Inexpensiuc.Parrons drink in gossip Pinones (787/79 I -5989). Moderate. Ocean Park neighborhood oF San This lovely ocean-sideresraurant on Plaza del Mercado de San- Juan. A pool and Jacuzzi afford pri, the Piirones boardwalk is the ideal turce Calle Dos Hermanos at Ca/le vate dips between jaunts to the beach. spot ro enjoy local specialties like Capitol, San Jutn (787/723-8022). A pasteli/los, savory pastries that are dozen produce stands in this market Conrad Condado Plaza 999 Aue- I ,.j stuffed with clnpin (trunkfish). brim with tropical stapleslike plan- nida Ashford (BBB/722-1274; con 7 tains, yucca, papaya, and guanribana da dop laza. com). D oub les om g249. fr I Jam Rum Bar and Bistro Mod- (soursop).Look lor signs that read "se Sleekdesign, a beach that's superb for erne 1400 Auenirla Magdalena vende pasteles" indicating vendors snorkeling, and rooms with soaring (787/721-5991). Expensiue. Rum who sell the Iocal specialty.riThen the ocean views set this casinohotel apart, and cafe con leche ar this Ocean Park lovers llock to this stylisl-rCondado m:rrket shuts down at night, a young irs do two resrauranrsby !?ilo Benet, landnrark. Foods like pernil (pork bistro for 50 varieties of the spirit crowd transforms the spaceinro orrc Ptrerro Rico's rnost celebratedchef shoulder) sandwichespack rhe displav and clever takes on traditional fare ofthe city'sliveliest social scenes; it's a cases.This is also where locals pick Iike tripletd empanad:rs filled with great spor WHERETOBAT to catch arovingparranda, up boxes of turrdn (nougat candy) or chicken, beef, and pork, and served or gfoLrp Cafeteria Mallorca ofcarolers,during the holi- 300 Calle cured ham to give as holidav eifrs. with a horseradishdippins salrce. cl.I,se.rson._KS. f){ saue.,r.co^ Nuntbcr rql
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wtj+i . :r *"+$e-* " -5t. ::,-,, t : '. r.::i1:,*.: i ::t= ;r"v:*trJ "ax#R Almoj6banas iet:cook, flipping once, unril gol.: (Cltw Frittcrs) brown, about 3 minutes.Drain i: I t\t,.ltil.5 .1ll0t I,i0 FRt'lrtrRs ters;top with salsaro serve. Thesefr"inn'as,or fritters (pictured at right),are a popularsnack in Puerto Coquito Rico. (Pucrto Rimn Eggnog) Il.\KlrS i (.trPS Canola oil, for frying Coconut and rum flavor this rrc.-.' 2 cupsmilk cal eggnog(pictured on page8r' 4 tbsp. unsaltedbutter I tsp. koshersalt 2 cupscoconut milk 2 cups rice flour I l4-oz. can sweetenedcon- 2 tsp. baking powder densedmilk 3 eggs,lightly beaten 2 cups Puerto Rican rum 8 oz. quesoblanco or moz- 4 egg yolks, lightly beaten zarella,shredded Ground cinnamon and sticks,to garnish Pouroil to a deprhof2" into a 6-qt. Dutch oven;heat over medium-high Blend milks, rum, and yolks in heat until a deep-frv thermome, blenderuntil frothy;chill. Pourir:. ter reads375". Boil milk, burter, glasses,sprinkle wirh cinnamr,: and salt in a 4-qt. sauccp:rnover and servewith cir-rnamonsticks. high heat;let cool for 10 rlinr-rtes. Stir in flour, baking ;rorvder,and Guineos en Escabeche eggs;return to hetrtand cook,stir- (Picklad Green Batnnas) ring, until doughthickens, about 8 l,l.{li}rS r\l}()tl'1 8 t-tj1,5 nrinures.Rernove tiom hear;stir in Unripe,green bananas pickled ir: cheese.Drop tablespoonsofdough garlickybrine (picturedat left) nr;i.. into oil; fry until golden brown, a relreshingcondimenr alongsid. t about2 minutes. r .r roastpork shoulder. Arroz con Gandules 12 oz. greenbananas, peeled (Rice lr audPigeon Peas) and cut into 1" chunks (r- -:-/ 5t l{1'J:lr ti 2Yz crtpsolive oil (pictured Thissatisfying rice dish at % cup white wine vinegar right) is greatserved alongside ro:rst lY, tbsp. koshersalt pork or pasteles. 12 whole black peppercorns 6 clovesgarlic 3 tbsp. canolaoil 6 small red onions, slicedthin 2 oz.bacon, cut into %" cubes 3 bay leaves (see Yz cup sofrito recipe on 2 cupspitted greenolives page98) I tbsp. freshlime juice lz small yellow onion, minced Clockwise, from top left: pickled green bananas; mashed 2 cupslong-grain plantains with white rice Bring a largepot of waterto a bo:. 2 tbsp. tomato sauce; cheesefritters; plantain fritters with stewed shrimp; rice and tomato paste addbanar-ras; cook until justtend.: 2 cups pigeon peas; fried plantain meat pies. chickenstock about 15minutes. Drain; setasid. I tsp. dried oregano Boil oil, vinegar,salt, peppercorn. lz jar 7-oz. mixed olives, garlic,onions. arrd bay leavesin capers, :rt.![ and pimientos !]5 l: l.lt I i I trRS 1To makesalsa, place cocl in a 2-qt. 4-qt. saucepanover high hearun:: I l5-oz.canpigeonpeas, drained Salt cod doesdouble duty in this saucepan,and coverby 2" with cold onionsand garlicare soft, abour . Kosher salt and freshly fritter toppedwith piquant cod salsa water; boil for 20 rninutes.Drain minutes.Remove from heatand si: ground black pepper,ro tasre (picturedon 92). cod, return to saucepan,and repeat in boiledbananas, olives, and juic. processtwice more. Transfercod to Chill overnight to marry fiavors. Heat oil ir-ra 6-qt. sallcepanover lY, lb. salt cod a bowl, and flake with a fork into medium heat. Add bacon; cook I cup, plus 1 tbsp. canolaoil largechunks; set aside. Heat I tbsp. Mofongo con Salsa de until browned, about 5 mrnutes. lz tsp. achiote seeds(see page oil arrdachiote in a 12" skillet over Tomate Add sofrito and onion; cook until 106) medium-high heat until oil turns (hlnsltccl Plntttnitts tuitlt Tontato Saut. soft,about 8 minutes.Add riceand % crtp sofrito (seerecipe on red;remove and discardachiote. Add \t,l{1r tr5 6 romar()pasre; cook until lighrly page98) sofrito, tomatoes,bay lea{,dnd salt Mashedwith bacor.rand garlic,th . browned, about 2 minutes. Add lz cup whole, peeled, canned ar-rdpepper; cook until thicftened, plantain dish (picturedabove):. stock, oregano,and oliverlix; boil. tomatoesin juice, crushed about 15minures. Add two thirds of servedwith a quick tomarosaucc. Reduceheat ro medium-low, cover, 3 plum tomatoes,minced the cod;cook for 5 mir-rutes.Let cool. and cook unril rice is tender,about I bay leaf Canola oil, for frying minutes;srir in 30 peas.Cook For Kosher salt and freshly 2 To make batter,whisk llour, bak- 5 plantains,peeled, cut into l' 10 mir-rutes more.Season with salt ground black pepper, ro tasre ing powder,cilantro, and garlic in chunks, soakedin hot water and pepperbeFore serving. lY, cupsflour a bowl. Stir in remainingcod and % cup chicken stock 1 tsp. baking powder 1%cups warer until smoorh.Heat 8 oz. bacon,cur into %" cubes Bacalaitos Fritos con 4 sprigscilantro, remainingoil in a 12" skillet over 7 clovesgarlic, minced \Working Bacalao Guisado minced medium-high heat. in Yz crtp olive oil (Codfsh FrittersruitL Corl,9nlsa) 2 clovesgarlic, minced batches,pour %cup batterinto ikil- Kosher salt and freshly
$6 r,,u.,,r..o,t Nrrrnbcrr4i I ground black pepper, to taste oil, pork, ham,dates,juices, oregano, I tsp. dried oregano potatocs, cilrl'ors,and plantainl I small yellow onion, minced capers.olives, cilantro, garlic, onions, 17, lb. ground beefchuck cook trntil evcrvtl-ringis tendcr. | 28-oz. can whole, peeledto- peppers,chickpeas, and saltand pep- '/ cup raisins aborrt 25 nrirrutcs. Remove and matoes, drained and crushed per in a bowl; chill. To make the % cuproughlychopped sl-rredcl-ricken, disc:rrding bones Shreddediceberg lettuce and dough, processremaining achiote pimiento-stuffedgreen olives and frrt.Add chicken to pot alons tomato wedges,to serve oil, yautia,bananas, and milk in a Y, 32-oz. canwhole, peeled rvith spaehetti.Cook until pastais food processoruntil smooth. tomatoesin juice, crushed al ciente,:rlrout B minutes.Seasor.r 1 Pour canolaoil to a depth of 2" Kosher salt and freshly with salt:rr-rd pepper. into a 6-ot. Dutch oven: heat over 2 To form the pasteles,spread 7< cup ground black pepper,to taste medium-high heat until a deep-fry of the dough onto a 5" x3/2" recra.n- 5 ripe plantains,peeled, cut Sofrito thermometerreads 325. Drain and glein centerofa 12"square ofbanana lengthwiseinto 7+"slices .U,\.lit \.\tt{}lrJ .+ (.liPS dry plantains;Fry until tender,about leaf or parchrnenrpapen place 3 2 eggs,lightly beaten This nrultiptrrposeseasoning bas.- 6 minutes.Finely chop plantains in a tbsp. filling over dough; top with I tbsp. flour fornrsthe FoundationoFnuneurt food processorwith stock;set aside. 5-6 almonds.Fold squarein half so I cup canolaoil dishesin PuertoRico. Cook bacon in a 10" skillet over doughencloses filling; continuefold- medium heat until browned,about ir-rgunder the open top and sidesto 1To rnakefilling, heatoil in a 12" 8 oz. ham, chopped 15 minutes. Stir bacon and Fatinto form a tight package.'Wrap package skillet over nrediunr-high heilr. 2 tbsp. minced freshoregano plantainswith half the garlic and 5 tightly in a 12" squareoffoil; repeat Add garlic and onior.r;cook ur-rtil l5 sprigscilantro, chopped tbsp. olive oil; seasonwith salt and with remainingdough and filling. soft,aborrt 3 minutes.Add achiote, l0 clovesgarlic, chopped pepper;set mofongo aside. Bring an 8-qt. saucepanoFwater to a cumin, cinnamon, and oregano; 5 cubanelleor bananapep- boil; add packets.Simmer until fill- cook for 1 minute.Add beel:;cook pers,stemmed, seeded, and 2 Heat remainineolive oil in skillet ing is cookedthrough, about I hour. untilbrowr-red,abotrt 6 minutes.Add chopped over medium heit. Add remainins Drain and cool beforeserving. raisins,olives, and tomatoes;cook 4 largeyellow onions,chopped garlicand onions;cook urrtil soFt. unril thickened,abour 5 rnirrutcs. I red bell peppet stemmed, about 15 minutes.Add tomatoes; PernilAsado Seasonwith saltand pepper;cool. seeded,and chopped cook until broken down, about i0 (RonstPork Sltoulder) % cup canolaoil minutes. To serve,spoon mofongo SIITYLS 8 2 To make pies,shape tlr,o plantain ir-rtoa 8-oz. ramekin; invert onto a \Weadapted the recipe for lechdn,a slicesinto a 4" cylinder,overlappine Finelvchop all ingredientsin a food servingplate garnished with lettuce roastedwhole pig, for pork shoulder their er-rds,and securinqrvith tooth- processor.Heat in a 12" skilletover and tomato wedges;top with sauce. (picturedon page86). picks.Repeat to make l2 cylindcrs. nredium-lclu,hcat; cook until ver\ Stuff cylinderswith % cup oF the sofi,about 20 minutes.Store irr th. Pasteles I cup freshorange juice filling.Heat oil in a 12" skilletover refrigeratorFor rrp to 1 week. (GrcenBanana and Porb Thnnlcs) Yt cup red wine vinegar medium-highheat. Whisk togethcr SERYESI6 % cup dark brown sugar eggs,f our, and I thsp. watcl irr a Tostones con These flavorful tamales (pictured on Ya crtp kosher salt bowl. tVorking in batches,dip pies Camarones Guisados page 88) are sold from sireet stands Y< oup ground black pepper in egg mixture, and add to skil- (l)h n I t i rr I"ri t tarsu,i th,S tau'cd Slt ri rt t I during the holidays in Puerto Rico. 2 tbsp. olive oil let; fry, tr.rrningonce, unril golden !l ll\ t,S {r $ 2 tbsp. dried oregano brown, about 3 minutes.Serve hot In this recipe,simple Fricd plantain. 3/+ cttp canola oil 2 tbsp. ground cumin or at roonl telnPerature. ,rrctopped wirh :rhrieht shrinrp an.. I tbsp. achiote seeds (see page 40 clovesgarlic, minced tomato sauce(pictutcd on pagc9(r . 106) I 8-lb. bone-in, skin-on pork Sancocho I lb. porkloin, cut into %"cubes picnic shoulder (Clrickot tnd Root Vtgtrtblt Sotrp) I tbsp. canolaoil, plus more 8 oz. ham, cut into Y+"crtbes SItl\iIS 6 ti 8 oz. largeshrimp, peeled,de- % cup pitted dates, minced Mix juice, vinegar, sugar, salt, lhis PuertoRican chickensoup is veined,and finely chopped 2 tbsp. Freshorange juice pepper,oil, oregano,cr.rmin, and heartywith starchyvegetables (pic- 2 tbsp. sofrito (seerecipe, above I tbsp. fresh lime juice garlic in a bowl; setmarinade aside. tured on page92). I tbsp. tomato paste I tbsp. dried oregano Usinga paringkniFe, cut 1%"-wide, I plum tomato, finely chopped 2 tsp. capers,minced 1"-deepslits all overpork in a roasr- 2 tbsp. canolaoil 3 greenplantains, cut diago- l2 pitted green olives, minced ing pan; pour marinadeover pork. 3 clovesgarlic, crushed nally into l" thick rounds 4 sprigs cilantro, minced Chill, turning pork everylew hours, I largeyellow onion, minced 2 tbsp. koshersalt I clove garlic, minced for at least6 hours. Heat oven to I plum tomato, cored,seeded, I small yellow onion, minced 325'. Roastpork, bastingwith n-rar- and finely chopped 1 Jb rnake shrimp, heat 1 tbsp I red bell p€pper, stemmed, inade every30 minutes, until an l0 cupschicken stock oil in a 10" skillet over mediuln- seeded,and minced instant-readthermometer ir-rserted 8 sprigscilantro high heat. Add shrirlp, sofritt, Yz greenbell pepper, stemmed, into thickestpart reads190', about 8 skinlesschicken thighs tornilto p:rstc,:rrrd tornetoi co',: seeded,and minced 5 hours.Let restbelore serving. 8 oz. red potatoes,peeled and until shrinrparc cookedthrouql'. Y, l5-oz. can chickpeas,drained cut into l" chunks rrbout6 minlrtes.Se:rson with sa.: Kosher salt and freshly Piononos 3 medium carrots,peeled and and pcpper;chill. ground black peppeq to taste (Friad Phnttitt lllrtt I'ics) slicedcrosswise 2 lb. white yautia or taro, sl.R\'l:5 I i I largegreen plantain, peeled 2 T
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