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Ajidew® Nl-50 AJINOMOTO'S AJIDEW® NL-50 Amino Acid Based Humectant AJIDEW® NL-50 Please contact the AJINOMOTO group, should you have questions about trademark registration. Japan North America South America Ajinomoto Co., Inc. Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. Ajinomoto do Brasil Ind. e Com. de 15-1 Kyobashi 1-chome, Chuo-ku, 400 Kelby Street, Fort Lee, NJ 07024, U.S.A. Alimentos Ltda. Tokyo 104-8315, Japan TEL：+1（201- ）-292-3180 FAX：+1（201- ）-346-5638 Rua Joaquim Távora 541, Vila Mariana, TEL：+81（3）- -5250-8153 FAX：+81（3）- -5250-8259 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. 04015-901 São Paulo, SP, Brazil TEL：+55（11）- -5080-6700 FAX：+55（11）- -5908-8799 Ajinomoto Healthy Supply Co., Inc. Los Angeles Office, 3460 Torrance Boulevard 17-11 Kyobashi 2-Chome, Chuo-ku, Suite #310, Torrance, CA 90503, U.S.A. Tokyo, 104-0031 Japan TEL：+1（310- ）-543-8600 FAX：+1（310- ）-543-8601 TEL：+81（3）- -3563-7584 FAX：+81（3）- -3563-3322 [email protected] Europe, Africa & Middle East Asia Pacific S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V. Taiso Commerce Inc. Ajinomoto Co., (H.K.) Ltd. Industrial Research Park-Fleming, B-1348 10F., NO.68, SEC.2, Zhongshan N.RD., 21/F., Bangkok Bank Building, 14-20 Bonham Louvain-La-Neuve, Belgium Zhongshan District. Taipei, Taiwan Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong TEL：+32（10）- -483-222 FAX：+32（10）- -456-227 TEL：+886（2）- -2521-0180 FAX：+886（2）- -2521-5904 TEL：+85（2）- -2534-2888 FAX：+85（2）- -2534-2899 Russia Ajinomoto (Singapore) Pte. Ltd. Ajinomoto (Malaysia) Berhad 460 Alexandra Road, #11-04/05, PSA Building, Lot 5710 Jalan Kuchai Lama Petaling 58200 OOO“Ajinomoto” Singapore 119963, Republic of Singapore Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia E-511, Leninsky Prospekt 113/1, TEL：+65-6257-1922 FAX：+65-6257-1622 TEL：+60（3）- -7980-7352 FAX：+60（3）- -7980-6817 Moscow, 117198, Russia Ajitrade (Thailand) Co., Ltd. Ajinomoto Philippines Corporation TEL：+7（495- ）-662-3200 FAX：+7（495- ）-662-3214 12Ath Fl., Si Ayutthaya Bldg., 487/1 Si Ayutthaya 5th Floor, Ajinomoto Bldg, 331 Sen. Gil Puyat Road, Khwaeng Thanon Phaya Thai Khet Avenue, Makati City, Philippines Rachathewi, Bangkok 10400, Thailand TEL：+63（2）- -895-6081 FAX：+63（2）- -890-7959 TEL：+66（2）- -248-7224 FAX：+66（2）- -248-7227 40% RECYCLED PAPER AJIDEW® NL-50 First issue:Oct.2.2006 Revised:Nov.18.2010 Contents Introduction Moisture retention ability of skin and NMF (amino acids and PCA) P2 What is PCA? P3 Material Introduction AJIDEW® NL-50 P4 Efficacy on hair ●Hair shampoo P5 Reduction of wet friction of hair by Sodium PCA/shampoo Wet and dry combability/shampoo Hair control/shampoo P6 ●Hair Conitioner Sensory evaluation/hair conditioner Hair control/hair conditioner P7 Antistatic and moisturizing effect/hair conditioner ●Permanent-Wave P8 Moisturizing effect by sodium PCA/Permanent-Wave Hair softening effect by Sodium PCA/Permanent-Wave Odor Suppression by Sodium PCA/Permanent-Wave ●Quantity remaining of sodium PCA on hair P9 Adsorbed quantity of sodium PCA hair Efficacy on skin Efficacy on skin Effects of Sodium PCA in a cleansing formulation Sensory Test of Sodium PCA P10 Moisture evaluation of Sodium PCA Skin moisturization by Sodium PCA The effect in formulations P11 Thickening of liquid cleansing formula How to make carbopol gel Reference Formulations HAIR SHAMPOO <TRANSPARENT> CG-79NSB P12 HAIR CONDITIONER RS24-H1L HAIR CREAM HCP-UV4L P13 SHOWER GEL <Transparent> SGT-327 SHOWER GEL BGJ-01K P14 FACIAL CLEANSER <CREAM> H-046 LOTION <O/W> AGC-203 P15 CREAM <O/W> 2L-122 WET TISSUE AF-1 P16 SUNSCREEN CREAM <W/O> SSCP-08 Product information Specification P17 Material Information Registration References AJINOMOTO'S Amino Acid Based Humectant 1 AJIDEW® NL-50 Introduction Moisture retention ability of skin and NMF (amino acids and PCA) What is PCA? The largest component of the human body is water, which is said to Stratum PCA and its salts show a high content in the skin as components of NMF. They are also found in plants such as Epidermis corneum account for 60～70% of the body weight. The skin plays an essential role mushrooms*7, onions*8, wheat*9, barley*10, and soybeans*11. if humans are to survive in a dry atmosphere. Without the skin, mois- Dermis PCA exists as a white crystalline substance that does not have any moisture absorption or retention effects in its ture would escape from the body very rapidly. The skin has various Subcutaneous acid form, but its salt shows excellent moisture absorption and retention. Comparison of the absorption and reten- Tissue functions, such as controlling the body temperature and acting as a tion of moisture by various moisturizing agents (Fig.4), and the absorption and retention of moisture by various sense organ and a physical barrier. The outermost layer of the skin Fig. 1 Structure of the skin moisturizing agents combined with keratin powder (Fig.5) has shown that Sodium PCA achieves superior mois- (stratum corneum) has a thickness of only about 20μm, but assumes the ture absorption and retention ability than the other moisturizing agents. Table 1 Composition of NMF most important role in retaining moisture. (See Fig.1) Amino Acids 42% Humidity Kerain powder：50% humectant solution=1/1 (w/w), PCA 12% 35% 45% 55% 65% 55% 45% 35% 25℃, 35%RH It is well known that the barrier function of intercellular lipids, com- 120 Lactic Acid 11% 100 Sodium PCA posed of ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and the moisture reten- Sodium PCA Urea 7% 90 Glycerin Glycerin 100 tion effect of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are important for reten- Blank Others 28% 80 Sorbitol ) ) % tion of moisture by the skin. It is extremely important for the stratum % 70 ( ( 80 corneum to retain moderate amounts of moisture to maintain the flexibility. It is also important from the view- 60 point of health and beauty. As shown in Table 1, NMF is composed of amino acids, sodium pyrrolidone carboxy- 50 60 late (Sodium PCA), and other substances.*2 It is reported that there is a strong correlation between the concentra- 40 tion of amino acid and Sodium PCA and moisture retention of the stratum corneum. It is also known that amino 30 40 3 20 acid levels and PCA levels are significantly higher in healthy skin than in dry skin.* Further, it has been shown Water retained ratio Weight increasing ratio that topical application of a model NMF solution (containing Sodium PCA) to the skin promotes the absorption of 10 20 each component of NMF into the stratum corneum (Fig.2), and thus significantly increases skin moisture and 0 0 flexibility (Fig.3). 01020304050 0102030 Days Days 0.5 (n=6) 55 Fig.4 Hygroscopicity and moisturizing proterty of Sodium PCA (25℃) Fig.5 Moisturizing effect on keratin powder Blank ***：p<0.001 0.45 mean±S.D. 3.5% NMF n=6 ) ■ Amino acids PCA mostly exists in its salt form at pH 5～6 in the skin. It promotes moisture retention and flexibility of the 50 0.4 ■ Ca2+ mg Blank Application ( ■ Mg2+ stratum corneum and is known to have a stronger effect than glycerin or sorbitol. Besides Sodium PCA shows a 0.35 + *** ■ K 45 high biodegradability (Fig.6) and it can be said that it has high environmental compatibility. ■ Na+ 0.3 ■ Cl- *** We, AJINOMOMO, manufacture and sell Sodium PCA as the raw materials for cosmetics. It is produced from 0.25 ■ Urea 40 ■ Lactic acid glutamic acid that is obtained by fermentation of sugar cane. It has been found that Sodium PCA promotes mois- 0.2 ■ PCA / insoluble protein ) ture retention as well as having various other useful effects for skin and hair. Its multiple functions are intro- ■ Urocanic acid 35 Capacitance mg ( 0.15 duced next, based on the data obtained by our experiments. 0.1 NMF 30 0.05 80 0.0 25 12345 12345 70 Shallow Deep Shallow Deep ) % 60 20 ( Tape stripping layers Initial After application 50 Fig.2 Permeability of NMF Fig.3 Moisturizing Effect of NMF TS data No.3000-0570E TS data No.3000-0580E 40 30 From the fact that the composition of amino acids in NMF is extremely similar to that of the amino acids that 20 constitute the protein known as filaggrin in the cells of the stratum corneum, it can be assumed that filaggrin is Rate of Biodegradation 10 degraded in the stratum corneum to produce NMF*4,5. It has also been reported that glutamic acid and glutamic 0 acid residues of filaggrin are transformed to PCA by enzymes after being released as free amino acids.*6-8 051015 20 25 30 Days Glutamine and sodium glutamate do not promote moisture retention. However, Sodium PCA strongly promotes moisture retention*9, suggesting that the body actively synthesizes Sodium PCA with a strong hygroscopic effect. Fig.6 Biodegradability of Sodium PCA (in accordance with OECD- modified-MITI-method) TS data No.1001-0101E 2 AJINOMOTO'S Amino Acid Based Humectant AJINOMOTO'S Amino Acid Based Humectant 3 AJIDEW® NL-50 Material Introduction Efficacy on hair Hair Shampoo Efficacy on hair Material Introduction Additive effect for hair care products on AJIDEW® NL-50 ●Hair shampoo AJIDEW® NL-50 1.5 Methods: 25℃, 40%RH Sodium PCA (Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate) is a natural humectant derived from L-Glutamic acid. Reduction of wet friction Test materials:0.25wt.% active of a moisturizer Known to be abundant in human skin as a component of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), this humec- of hair by Sodium PCA was added into a SLES solution of 1wt.% active. tant helps keep skin and hair fresh-looking.
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