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Home , Ariano Irpino, Atripalda, Avella, Avellino, Bisaccia, Compsa

Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:28 Pagina 148

Avellino and

148 149 A mantle of woods covers the “green Irpinia”, from an environmental point of view, one of the most i beautiful and rich territories of : it includes parks and naturalistic oases, mountains and high plains full of springs, grottoes, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, woods… The magic colours and scents invite walks in an unspoiled environment, long Ente Provinciale per il itineraries which at every step reveal spectacular Turismo di views of grandiose mountains, streams and wide via Due Principati 32/A valleys. Avellino tel. 0825 747321 Discovering Irpinia step by step, amidst the marvels www.eptavellino.it of the landscape, emerges its cultural and artistic heritage: Etruscans, Greeks, Romans, , Provincia di Avellino Longobards…in three thousand years many peoples Assessorato al Turismo have passed by these lands and left their marks: in piazza Libertà 1 Avellino the Roman ruins, the severe catacombs, the tel. 0825 793058 Longobard ruins and Baroque monuments. There is no village in Irpinia without a story to tell. Irpinia is Ente Parco Regionale also world famous for its glorious wine growing del Partenio tradition: it is the land of the Docg wines: , via Borgonuovo 1 (AV) di Tufo and . These wines exalt the tel. 0825 691166 typical local cuisine: quality products and old www.parcopartenio.it recipes guarantee excellent dishes. Inns, trattorias and famous restaurants unite passion, experience Palazzo dell’ex Dogana and innovation, and offer the possibility to savour dei Grani real culinary masterpieces. piazza Umberto I The choice of accomodations is wide and varied, for tel. 0825 626586 all tastes and budgets: guesthouses, hotels, agritourisms, bed & breakfast. Avellino Museo Irpino corso Europa tel. 0825 782382 Museo Zoologico via F. Petronelli 8 tel. 0825 781249

Mirabella Eclano Area Archeologica Antica via Nazionale delle Puglie (località Passo di Mirabella) tel. 0825 449175

Montevergine Irpinian vineyards Museo Abbaziale di Montevergine e Mostra king of the red wines; Greco its many ramifications. Amidst permanente dei presepi di Tufo and Fiano, two white hills covered with vineyards, Santuario di Montevergine wines with an unmistakable olive groves and orchards, tel. 0825 72924/73424 famous travellers bouquet. These three high the area provides a historical www.montevergine.org the Wine Trails and quality products are the only document of the civilizations Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi Flavours of Irpinia Docg wines in . that succeeded each other The Greco wine was so precious, that The itinerary starts in over the centuries: Longobard Museo dell’Abbazia del Goleto The , Avellino and winds its way fortresses, Norman castles, contrada S. Guglielmo at banquets it was served only once. tel. 0827 24432 surrounded by vineyards, through the valleys of the Renaissance architecture. , I AD offers wines of international rivers Sabato and Calore, (www.sito.regione..it reputation such as Taurasi, and on to the Via Appia, with /agricoltura/home.htm). Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:28 Pagina 150

not to be missed irpinia in 1 day irpinia in 3 days shopping outings with children Irpino Museum, Avellino Avellino Avellino Lace Gesualdo Castle Sanctuary of Montevergine Sanctuary of Montevergine Sanctuary of Montevergine Marble objects Lancellotti Castle () Collegiate Church of Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi Straw works Lake Basilica dell’Annunziata, Prata Incised wood Oasis of Monte Polveracchio di Principato Ultra Conza Archaeological Park Wine and typical products and Valle della Caccia Aeclanum Excavations Lake Conza oasis San Guglielmo al Goleto Abbey 150 151

events February August _Pork and Sausage Festival _Ariano Folk Festival _International Folklore Carnival Meetings _Montemarano Carnival _Boletus Mushroom Festival Montoro Superiore May _Wild Boar Festival _Ricotta and Cheese Festival Montoro Superiore _Sergio Leone Prize May-July _Short and Long - Frontier September Films _Interferences Province of Avellino Festival of multimedia arts San Martino June-August _Art Under the Stars _Vibrations and Whispers Various municipalities in the _Greco di Tufo Festival Province of Avellino Tufo _Hazelnut Festival July Baiano _Music in Irpinia _Cinema Nights International orchestra review Avellino Loreto Abbey at _Mediterranean Footpaths October International review of ethnic _Hot Air Balloon Rally music Fragneto Monforte Summonte, Regional Partenio _Chestnut and Truffle Festival Park Bagnoli Irpino _Boletus Mushroom Festival December Montoro Superiore _Living Crib July-September _Torrone (Nougat) Festival _Travelling Concerts in Irpinia Ospedaletto d'Alpinolo (amphitheatres, castles, piazzas and historical palazzi) _Ariano Summer Ariano Irpino View of Irpinia

art and archaeology nature and parks for young people specialities spas and fitness Historic centres of Avellino, Partenio Regional Park Lake Laceno Chestnuts, apples, hazelnuts Ancient thermal baths Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi, Monti Picentini Regional Mount Terminio Mushrooms and truffles of San Teodoro, Mirabella Eclano Nature Park Sheep cheese and caciocavallo Irpino Museum, Avellino Docg Wines Fiano di Avellino, Sanctuary of Montevergine Greco di Tufo, Taurasi Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:28 Pagina 152

Avellino, Mercogliano famous travellers and the Sanctuary …the Campania, exceptional for the cultivation of the vine. of Montevergine Pliny the Elder, I AD

152 153 The capital Avellino is located in a splendid natural historical documents, with a charming cloister Sanctuary of Montevergine setting, surrounded by the Picentini Mountains. In (concerts in summertime) and a library which holds the centre, with its modern feel, one finds interesting parchment documents, papal bulls and precious Avellino, historical buildings; the Cathedral, with the incunabula. Testa Palace beautiful neoclassical façade has paintings from the Near Mercogliano it is worth your while to make a Abbey 1500’s and a splendid Roman crypt. The bell tower detour in order to discover the Medieval village of Mercogliano is majestic. The symbol of the town is the Baroque of Capo Castello, with the remains of the Norman Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) in the Piazza Castle. Amendola, which rises above the rooftops of the town. Other representative monuments are the From Mercogliano one can drive along the Fontana di Bellerofonte (XVII century), designed panoramic road or take the cableway which in 7 by Cosimo Fanzago, and the remains of the minutes takes you up a breathtaking slope to the Longobard Castle. famous Sanctuary of Montevergine, just below the top of Mount Partenio, in a marvellous wooded The Irpino Museum preserves archaeological material landscape. found in the province. In the various rooms (archaeology, renaissance and modern) we find authentic masterpieces: The Sanctuary was founded in 1124 on the remains of a relics from ancient Abellinum, among which a magnificent temple dedicated to the goddess Cibele. Every year two mosaic; the interesting reconstruction of the rich tomb of a million pilgrims walk up to render homage to the “Mamma chief from Mirabella Eclano, buried together with his dog; Schiavona”, the black Madonna depicted in a painting wooden statues from the Sanctuary of Mefite in the valley of the 13th century. The most important times for the of the Ansanto river; ceramics, porcelain, paintings of the pilgrimage are May, August and September, to celebrate Neapolitan school between the XVII and the XIX century, Pentecost, the Assumption and the Birth of Maria (the and a marvellous Neapolitan crib from the 1700’s. traditional “iuta a Montevergine”, which means “outing to Montevergine”). Also important is the feast of San From the mountain range of the Partenio (at 1270 Guglielmo da Vercelli, founder of this church (June 25). meters above sea level), the Sanctuary of The faithful walk up to the sanctuary or travel on wagons Montevergine dominates the city of Avellino. It is the decorated with flowers and garlands to the sound of most famous and visited Marian sanctuary of the traditional music. The architecture of the monastery and the guest quarters are sober, but the interior of the new Basilica South, destination of pilgrims from every part of (1952-1961) is luxuriously decorated. The throne with the Italy. On the road to the Sanctuary rises large panel depicting the black Madonna of Montevergine Mercogliano, in an evocative surrounding of (late 13th century) is located in the Presbytery. mountains and hills. Besides the architectural beauty From the back of the lateral naves one enters the “Chiesa one can admire the splendid view which extends to vecchia” (old church), Gothic but restructured in the 1600’s, the gulf of . Here we find the Abbey which holds a precious collection of art works. In the of Loreto, masterpiece of Domenico Antonio Sanctuary Museum one finds noble sepulchral monuments and a permanent exhibit of cribs from the 1700’s to the Vaccaro (18th century), rich in art works and present.

destruction was widespread. individuals, who can also monastery of Santa Lucia For centuries the people of the walnuts of known the methods to obtain biological Its tenacious and hard take advantage of the cultural in and the Abbey town dress up and dance world over, honey, products of the highest working people, however, programmes organized by of Goleto all offer hospitality. endlessly to the frenetic rhythm mushrooms, black truffles quality. Many of these farms have been able to make the monks and try the known as the “tarantella from Bagnoli Irpino, the also offer accomodations, a genuine and comfortable the earthquake of 1980 much of the beauty of this accomodations delicious honey and the The Carnival Montemaranese”, the most typical products tomatoes of Montoro, the version of farm holiday. land shine again. in monasteries famous herb based liquors. in Montemarano complex and original tarantelle cheeses of and Women can find hospitality performed today. More than Bagnoli and the cured meats In 1980 Irpinia was The Sanctuary of in the Benedictine convent in The most exciting carnival three thousand people The typical products among of Mirabella Eclano. devastated by a terrible Montevergine offers a villa of the 1700’s. The festivites are in Montemarano, celebrate carnival with this these hills and mountains are The Irpinian farms, often still earthquake. Many people lost hospitality in its guest convent of San Francesco a a town east of Avellino, at the irresistible rhythmic music and innumerable: the chestnuts family businesses, are still their lives and the quarters for groups and Montella, the female foot of the Picentini mountains. dancing, processions and of Montella and Serino, the cultivated with traditional comfits throwing. Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:28 Pagina 154

The green heart famous travellers of Campania All the eras were lived out in this region: the ancient Cimmerians with their moonlit funeral rites; the Oscans and the Etruscans with their vaults, the Calcidians, the Sibarites with their soft humanity, and finally the Romans, masters of nature, the fabulous Moors and the Norman horsemen. Victor Hehn, 1884

154 155 Irpinia includes the Partenio Park and the Monti The eastern part of Irpinia is characterized by Picentini Park, the grotto of Caliendo, the Valle della pristine nature, rivers and beautiful views: the Caccia Oasis at Senerchia, the lakes of Conza and Campo di Summonte, Sportiglioni grotto and the Laceno... Acquafredda stream are examples of interesting The massif of the Partenio, northwest of Avellino, trails one can take. Historical and archaeological is part of the Partenio Regional Naturel Park: interesting remains can be found in Avella. The city mountains, highplains and woods, where coincides with the ancient Abella, where was found mushrooms, berries and medicinal plants grow. the Cippus Abellanus (2nd century BC), an important There are numerous accomodations available in the document carved in stone in the obscure Oscan Park: hotels, pensions, agritourisms and bed language, kept in the Archaeological Museum & breakfasts. At the border of the park towards in . , at San Martino in Valle Caudina, there Among the most important monuments are the is a fine example of the Irpinian cultural heritage: remains, well preserved, of the Roman the Pignatellis’ Leonessa Castle. Amphitheatre dating to the late Republican era. To the southeast, in the large Monti Picentini The fortified medieval Castle, of which ruins can be Regional Park (shared by the provinces of Avellino seen, was one of the largest in Southern Italy. and ) there are summits covered with The San Michele Grotto, with Byzantine frescoes, beechtree woods, deep valleys and gorges with is also interesting. Lauro, famous for its prized rivers and waterfalls (the Calore, , Sarno and hazelnuts, is also known for the imposing rivers are born here), corners of pristine Lancellotti Castle, founded in 1300 in a beautiful nature and rare bird species. The possibility of hikes panoramic position, then destroyed and rebuilt is endless, and a nice walk to lake of Laceno on the in the 1800’s in a variety of different styles. highplain that goes by the same name is very popular (in winter it becomes a welcoming ski resort).

The Laceno Highplains season offers the visitor any equipped with modern ski- The Lancellotti number of a wide range of lifts and hotels. Castle in Lauro outdoor activities: hiking, The Roman amphitheatre walking, trekking, of Avella a green paradise horseback riding and skiing, the possibility of staying in lovely places like Irpinia is an authentic , Bagnoli paradise for sports lovers Irpino (with its splendid and those passionate about Laceno highplains) and the outdoor lifestyle. Every Campolaspierto, all Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:28 Pagina 156

From the Sabato river famous travellers to the river Maria d’Avalos had such hair, that deserved no less gold than crown. She was all ringslets, so the murdered was justified if his life remained forever prisoner of death. Court Chronicler Corona, 1590

156 157 A fun alternative to the classic tourist itineraries is the Felsulae recalled by Titus Livius. is following the course of the rivers. The Great Criminal Court of the Bourbons was held The Sabato river is born in the Picentini mountains in its castle, and has been nick-named the “Irpinian just south of Avellino. The first town you come Spielberg”, because many patriotic fighters in the across is Serino: it is from here that the acqueduct Italian Risorgimento were imprisoned there. that supplies Naples and other cities starts. The city Mirabella Eclano sits where there was once an is also the starting point of excursions to the Monte important Samnite city, later conquered by the Terminio highlands (1,300mt) and into the Monti Romans. At the pass of Mirabella are the Picentini Park, which also has ski-lifts and hotels excavations of Aeclanum that have brought to light during the winter months. A detour to visit Solofra important remains of the Roman city, among which is a must: set in a beautiful landscape of mountains the public baths, the marketplace, houses, shops it has treasures such as the Collegiate of San and net-like walls. Many of the relics are on exhibit Michele Church, with paintings from the 1550’s and at the Irpino Museum of Avellino. In the centre of 1600’s (the most famous by ) and Mirabella is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore the majestic Palazzo Ducale, seat of local government. (end 1800’s) which preserves a priceless wooden The city is considered capital of leatherware crucifix of the 1200’s, one of the best examples of in Campania. Romanesque sculpture in Southern Italy. Atripalda, on the shores of the Sabato river, is the archaeological zone of the ancient Abellinum. One The wide Ufita valley, to the north, is an area rich can visit the excavations in the area of Civita, with in history and tradition, where green hills and tiny the remains of walls, towers and a Roman house, villages alternate seemingly without end. with a garden, a pool and frescoed rooms. The In picturesque Ariano Irpino are the imposing building of the Dogana dei grani is a good example remains of the Norman era castle and a lovely of industrial archaeology, a container and a museum cathedral. A gorgeous view of the Ufita and Mescano that hosts relics from the churches either destroyed valleys can be enjoyed from here, with the Taburno, or closed by the 1980 earthquake, and temporary Partenio and mountains on the horizon. exhibits. Pratically all of the area, with its villages nestled on In Prata di Principato Ultra, sitting on an outcrop hilltops, is rich in castles: the most famous and best that dominates the course of the river, is one of the preserved is the massive one that dominates the oldest monuments of Irpinia, the Basilica village of Gesualdo, where in the 1500’s the famous dell’Annunziata. It still retains some paleo-christian musician and prince Carlo Gesualdo composed structurs of the 6th century, and catacombs dating many of his works; and that of , in an back to the 3rd-4th centuries AD, with altars, tombs enchanting ancient hamlet. and frescoes: the one depicting the Annunciation is For a relaxing vacation of wellness one can visit the particularly interesting. Ancient Spas of San Teodoro, not far from Villamaina in the town of Bagni di San Teodoro.

Eclano. A straw pyramid surprising his beautiful wife the Capuchin convent of The convent 25 meters high, covered by Maria d’Avalos with her lover Gesualdo, a painting by of San Francesco in Montella ears of wheat and topped by in his Neapolitan palace in Giovanni Balducci (1609) in honour of the wheat: the statue of the Grieving Piazza San Domenico shows the prince on his Basilica of the the festival of the straw Virgin, is carried to the Gesualdo da Venosa, Maggiore, he killed them knees, accompanied by his Annunziata in centre of town on a cart both. To escape the revenge uncle Carlo Borromeo (later Prata di Principato cart prince of the madrigalists Ultra pulled by six bulls. The of the families of the to become a Saint) as he “The Festival of the Straw obelisque is held in place The greatest italian murdered, he took refuge in begs forgiveness for the Cart” is held every year by the locals with tightly madrigalist has also gone his castle at Gesualdo, where double murder. Facing the on the third Saturday pulled ropes. down in history for other he dedicated the last years of prince is his second wife, of September in Mirabella reasons: in 1590, upon his life to sacred music. In Eleonora d’Este. Generale_INGL 28-03-2008 13:04 Pagina 158

Alta Irpinia famous travellers There is a place in Central Italy, under high mountains, noble and remembered for its fame, the Ansanto valley; gloomy with dense growth it is closed on two sides by woods, where, full in the middle, between boulders and whirlpools, thunders a river. (VII, 563-567) 158 159 Alta Irpinia, on the eastern side of the province, dominates the entire Ofanto Valley and includes the San Guglielmo is a hilly zone with sheer summits, intersected by monastery and two churches. al Goleto Abbey innumerable streams. The area was hard hit by the The historical centre of is interesting: earthquake of 1980, but the rare villages rich in in the Ducal Castle that was founded in the 7th history and natural beauty have been patiently century there are literary cafès and artisan shops. restored in memory of the past. , on the border with the , Montella, famous for its walnuts and chestnuts, is has a charming ancient village dominated by the the starting point for excursions into the splendid Castle, and lovely green areas by the Ofanto river. surrounding mountains. From here one can reach surges near lake of Conza, the Santa Maria della Neve Monastery, the Salvatore a large artificial body of water with a refined Sanctuary and the Caprone Grotto, where it is ecosystem of great naturalistic interest, protected by believed that ceremonies to the god Bacchus were the WWF. held in ancient times. Nearby is the San Francesco Archaeological excavations have brought to light a Folloni monumental complex, said to have been important remains and part of the forum of the founded by Saint Francis of Assisi himself. Roman city, visible in the Archaeological Park Bagnoli Irpino, in a lovely position on the northern of ancient . slopes of the Picentini mountains, is dominated by the remains of a 1400’s castle. Among the naturally beautiful sites to be visited is the Caliendo Grotto; 300 meters deep it has many small waterfalls that burst from the rock. Piano Laceno is a touristic centre that is open both summer and winter, and has many good hotels and restaurants. There are good ski slopes with efficient ski-lifts. On the western edge of the plain is the lake of Laceno, with equipped picnic areas. At Sant’Angelo dei Lombardi, which takes its name from the cult of Saint Michael the Archangel to whom the Longobards were particularly devoted, one can visit the Romanesque cathedral and the Longobard castle. A few kilometers away is the splendid San Guglielmo al Goleto Abbey, another masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, one of the most evocative of the monumental complexes of Southern Italy. The complex, with its great walls,

Lake of Laceno a volcano that lets off gas the intolerable smell of the and sulphur vapours. Close sulphur vapours. The by, in the 6th century BC the sacred nature of this place A sanctuary on a Samnites built a sanctuary has passed down to the sulphur lake: the Mefite venerated by many, nearby Santa Felicita of dedicated to the goddess Sanctuary. Mefite, protectress of health In the Ansanto Valley is and patron of water and ‘Mofeta’, a very famous fields. The name is still place in ancient times. The remembered in the adjective lake of sulphureous mud is ‘mephitic’, which refers to Generale_INGL 28-03-2008 13:04 Pagina 160

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2nd Edition revised and updated Disclaimer by JWT Italia This Guide went to press on December 31st Photographs 2007. Every effort has Alfonso Grotta been made to check the Vittorio Guida information supplied. Oreste Lanzetta We take no Mario Milo responsibility for any Enzo Rando changes in schedules, addresses, websites, Printing etc., which may occur Gruppo Associati Pubblitaf, after the above date. Naples