KOREAN HERITAGE Summer 2013 | Vol 6 No.2 SUMMER 2013 Vol. 6 No. 2 Vol. ISSN 2005-0151 1 | 1 KOREAN HERITAGE Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration KOREAN HERITAGE SUMMER 2013 Cover Red symbolizes summer. The symbol- ism originates from the traditional “five directional colors” based on the ancient Chinese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Korean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover features Sungnyemun, the South Gate of Seoul, recently restored. For more stories about the gate, see p. 14. KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website (http://English.cha.go.kr) and smart devices. 2 | 3 KOREAN HERITAGE CHA News Vignettes Sacred Relics Moved for Repairs on Seokgatap Naengmyeon, Refreshing Noodle Dish to Chase Korean Flavor Reliquaries containing sarira, or sacred remains of Buddhist spiritual Away Summer Heat masters, were removed from the second story of Seokgatap (Sakyamuni Naengmyeon, a dish aptly described by its name (literally, Pagoda) in April, as the three story stone pagoda at Bulguksa Temple cold noodles), is made of long thin noodles typically served in Gyeongju, South Gyeongsang Province is being disassembled for in an iced broth and garnished with a variety of toppings repairs. The pagoda is part of the temple complex, which along with the such as julienned cucumber, slices of pear, pieces of boiled neighboring Seokguram Grotto was inscribed on the UNESCO World meat, and hard-boiled egg. This refreshing summertime Heritage List in 1995. Dismantling of the pagoda structure started in dish is recorded in Dongguk sesigi (Seasonal Customs of the September 2012. The sarira receptacles contain 46 pieces of sarira which Eastern Kingdom) compiled in 1849 in the late Joseon will be placed again inside Seokgatap when repairs are completed. During Dynasty, evidence of its long-standing presence as one of repairs done in 1966, the world’s oldest extant woodblock print, a copy Korea’s traditional dishes. of The Pure Light Dharani Sutra, was found inside the pagoda. Originally a delicacy of the northern regions of the Korean Reconstruction of Sungnyemun Celebrated Peninsula, naengmyeon spread southward, becoming A ceremony was held to celebrate the completion of Sungnyemun’s wildly popular nationwide after the Korean War (1950– reconstruction on May 4, 2013, five years and three months after the 1953). Along the way the dish has been transformed devastating fire by arson that destroyed Seoul’s ancient South Gate into diverse variations with alterations in the thickness of in February 2008. The reconstruction was carried out through an noodles, base ingredients for the broth, and different kinds exacting process of construction employing traditional methods, tools, of toppings used. and techniques and using traditional materials. Top-notch craftsmen participated in the historic rebuilding, using roof tiles manufactured from Two of the most archetypical versions of the Korean cold traditional kilns and old-fashioned pigments for painting the woodwork. noodle dish are Pyongyang naengmyeon and Hamhung The reconstruction returned the South Gate back to its original form naengmyeon, named after their regions of origin in North as built in the Joseon Dynasty, by restoring adjacent city wall sections, Korea. Pyongyang naengmyeon is made of buckwheat among others. noodles, which are rough in texture, thick, and less starchy. It is served in broth made mainly with pheasant, beef, or World Heritage Forum Korea 2013 to be Convened in Jeju dongchimi, a water-based radish kimchi, seasoned with vinegar, sugar, and mustard sauce according to personal The Cultural Heritage Administration will hold the World Heritage taste. In contrast, Hamhung naengmyeon comes without Forum Korea 2013 on July 3 to 5 in Jejudo, the southernmost island being submerged in broth, but with a red pepper paste of the country, in collaboration with the government of Jeju Special dressing. It is eaten with the dressing and all toppings Autonomous Province. About 100 participants including experts and local government officials responsible for management of World Heritage mixed together. Its noodles are made from potato and sites will gather to discuss new trends and developments regarding sweet potato starch and accordingly very chewy and elastic. inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The discussions will focus on the theme of “Nomination Trends in the World and Issues for World Heritage Conservation in Korea.” 4 | 5 KOREAN Vol. 6 No. 1 HERITAGE Spring 2013 CONTENTS Seoul City Wall Photo Gallery Key Facilities of the Seoul City Wall Jejudo Island: Breathtaking Nature and Active Ecotourism 06 Defensive, Surveillance, and Practical Functions 30 Heritage Today Foreigner's View Sungnyemun Reconstruction Completed The Tremendous Potential of the Korean Traditional Hanok Home 14 National Treasure No.1 Recovers Its Original Glory 38 Human Heritage Historic Site Park Yeon, Talented Music Theorist Bangudae Petroglyphs 20 Musical Means to Help Rule the Country 42 Pictorial History on Rock Natural Heritage Intangible Heritage Gwangneung Tomb and Its Forests Brassware Making 26 Treasured Haven for Flora and Fauna 46 Striking It Hard by Hand Seoul City Wall 6 | 7 Key Facilities of the Seoul City Wall Defensive, Surveillance, and Practical Functions Text by Kim Young-soo, Research Professor, Institute of Seoul Studies, University of Seoul Photos by the Kim Young-soo & Cultural Heritage Administration Editor's Note : This is the second installment of a four-part series on the Seoul City Wall, a fortification system for Hanyang, the capital of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). 1 Seoul City Wall 8 | 9 Besides its extensive system of ramparts encircling the old city that known as Namdaemun) in the south, Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun) in the east, became the capital of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), the Seoul Sukjeongmun in the north, and Donuimun in the west. City Wall is equipped with diverse facilities. Main gates, Floodgates (water drain ditch), defensive outworks, beacon towers, secret gates, Ground was broken in October 1396 for the construction of Sungnyemun (South and other structures were built into the fortress system. Most of these Gate), which was completed in February 1398. In 1448, the pavilion and the facilities, some original and others recently restored, still stand today, foundation stone were wholly removed for reconstruction on elevated ground; in as though in perpetual watch over the modern capital city. They 1479 it was rebuilt once more to correct tilting of the structure for 30 years since served both practical and defensive purposes: people would come 1448. Following a visit by Japanese Crown Prince Yoshihito to Seoul in 1907, the and go through the gates, and soldiers would look out for enemy City Wall Dismantlement Commission, a Japanese agency established in Korea in incursions from these defensive facilities. preparation for its colonial rule (1910–1945), embarked on demolition of the walls around Sungnyemun. As part of a wall restoration project carried out in the 1960s, the South Gate was disassembled and repaired during 1961–1963. The structure stood isolated in the middle of the road for a long period thereafter, but the creation Main Gates and Small Gates of the Sungnyemun Park in 2005 allowed for easy access to the gate. A devastating fire in February 2008 destroyed a large part of the South Gate including the upper Access into the capital protected by the Seoul City Wall was mainly through the structure, but its reconstruction was completed early this year, and the gate was great gates located in each of the four cardinal directions: Sungnyemun (also reopened to the public on May 5, 2013. 1. Having served as defensive fortifica- tions for Hanyang, the ancient dynastic seat of Joseon for hundreds of years, the Seoul City Wall still watches today over Seoul, the capital of Korea. 2 Seoul City Wall 10 | 11 Of the four main gates, only Heunginjimun (East Gate) In addition to these four small gates, another entrance in the south was built with a defensive outwork. It was constructed was built during the reign of King Sejo (r. 1455–1468), but was in 1396 and received partial repairs in 1451 and 1453. closed during the reign of King Yejong (r. 1468–1469) according to The gate was reconstructed in 1868, more than 400 years geomantic rules, and was totally demolished during a road construction later. The East Gate shared the same indignity and neglect project during Japanese colonial rule. suffered by the South Gate as Japan-led road construction and urban remaking of Seoul took away the walls around Changuimun is positioned between Mt. Bugaksan and Mt. Inwangsan, them. But after a long time of isolation in the middle of and is the only one of the four to have retained its original form. The a busy road, the gate is now once again restored to public northwestern gate like the North Gate was a traffic portal towards the use, easily accessed by visitors through a newly-built park. northern part of the country, but was closed in 1416. It was reopened 3 in 1506 for coming and going of traffic. The pavilion was burned to Along with Changuimun, one of the small entrances in the ashes during the Japanese invasions of 1592–1598 and was restored in 5 northwestern part of the fortress, Sukjeongmun (North 1741. Gate) served as a traffic portal to and from northern or northwestern cities such as Goyang and Yangju, but The northeastern gate was first named Honghwamun, then it was renamed 5. Hyehwamun, the northeastern gate. the entrance was blocked by planting pine trees in front Hyehwamun in 1511. Although it was a small gate, Hyehwamun served as a major Since Sukjeongmun (North Gate) was usually because of concerns that the route stood in the way of the gateway for those going to the northern regions such as Yangju and Pocheon since closed, Hyehwamun flows of earth energy according to pungsu, or geomantic the North Gate was usually closed.