TH ROUG H YO RKSH IRE

I I I H FO RCE TEE A E G , SD L T HRO UG H YO RKSHIRE T H E C O UN T Y O F B R O AD A C R ES

G O R D O N H O M E

L O N D O N 65’ T O R O N T O ° EN T O N L T D . J. M . D 69 S S M C M X X I I

DA 6 7 0

\ ‘ / 6 L 75 b

P R EF A C E

IT is a deep j oy to writ e of the wonderful variety ’ of Yorkshire s attractiveness , and my pen would carry me into exuberance were I not reminded that many who pick up this little book may have yet to discover the beauty and glamour of the great county .

I have , therefore , tried to keep my great love of this portion of ancient Northumbria within and bounds , have even reduced the title of the volume to such colourless words that I might almost be accused of writing for the scurrying traveller who is content to pass through a country and carry away such impressions as he picks up n i an a ssa t . a p This , however, would not be a f r criticism , for, small as this little volume may be , I have endeavoured to indicate where romance and beauty may be found , where associations with literature and great events of history are of enshrined , and where the great solitudes heathery moorland and grassy fell ca ll to the jaded town dweller . In order to make it easy to reach any of the s places described , I have indicated the neare t

railway station in italics as prominently as possi b le . i This information is of no nterest to the motorist , v

86 846 2 vi P R E F A C E for his means of locomotion ta ke right to castle , abbey, village , or moor ; but many of those who wish to explore Yorkshire are dependent l on the older means of travel , and wi l no doubt find these indications helpful—the map inside the front cover of the book showing the routes taken in the successive chapters . OR O O E G D N H M . C O N T EN T S

PAG E THE YO R KSHTR E C S —F TH E H I . OA T ROM UMBER SCARBOROUG H

l THE YO R KSHTR E C S —F C G H II . OA T ROM S ARBOROU THE TEES

A N D T HE C H III . SELBY OUNTRY SOUT OF YORK

AN D TH E DS IV . YORK WOL

H H G H T HE F S AL TR ES V . FRO YORK T ROU ORE T OF G T o THE VALE OF PI C KERIN G

C D AN D THE H Y SH Mo o Rs VI . LEVELAN NORT ORK IRE

H ARROG ATE A N D T H E FOREST o r KNARESBOROUG H

T HE H VI I I . ALON G URE B EL o w MAs HA

I X I N S D E . WEN LEY AL

X .

X I .

I N DEx

L IST O F I L L UST RAT IO N S

HALF- TONES

H G H F C S D F ontis iece I OR E , TEE ALE r p YORK MIN STER (SOUT H AI S LE) F a cing pa ge 1 2 BRI D LIN G TON $UAY 1 6 FILEY BRI G 2 3 S CARBOROUG H 2 4 SALTBURN - B Y - T H E- SEA 3 8 YORK MIN STER (FROM A M Ezzo r xN T) 50 YORK MIN STER (BO O T B A M BAR) 59 BEVERLEY MIN STER 6 6 R I EVAUL x ABBEY 82 FOUNTAIN S ABBEY 92 GUI SBOROUG H ABBEY 1 26 A YORK S H IRE COTTAG ER I 3S KNARE SBOROUG H 1 42 T H E H S H G 1 BAT , ARRO ATE 44 B H D 1 6 BOLTON AB EY , W ARFE ALE 4 RIPON MIN STER 1 50 C S D 1 8 BOLTON A TLE , SWALE ALE 5 SG H F C S D 1 6 0 AY ART OR E , WEN LEY ALE RI C H MON D CASTLE 1 70

LINE DRAWINGS

H ULL IN 1 6 40 PATRIN GTON CH UR C H H ORN S EA MERE FL AMBOROUG H H EA D TH E KEEP OF S CARBOROUG H CASTLE ’ TH E R H o o o s BAY TOWN . OBIN BAY WH ITBY ABBEY A N D HARBOUR WH ITBY H ARBOUR T HE O L D CASTLE OF MULG RAVE ix x L I S T O F I L L U S T R A T I O N S

RUN SWI C K BAY FROM KETTL EN ESS THE NORMAN DOORWAY OF STILLIN G FLEET CH URCH TA DCASTER CHURCH FROM T H E BRI DG E ' ULF S H ORN AT YORK MIN STER STAMFOR D BRI DG E D UN BUR N HOL ME CH CH NORMAN WIN OW, N UR DETAIL OF TOMB OF LA D Y ELEANOR PERC Y IN BEVERLEY MIN STER NORMAN FONT IN NORTH GRIMSTON CH URCH “ $ H D H Co xwo L D S AN Y ALL , INTERIOR 0 B YORKS HIRE COTTAG E H OUS E AT KIRBY MOORSI D E WH ERE T HE SE CON D DUKE OF BU C KIN G H AM DIED SAX ON SUN DIAL AT KIRK D ALE STAFE CROSS TH E OL D HORN OF T HE SINNIN G TON H UNT NORMAN CRYPT OF LASTIN G H AM CH URCH MI D DLETON CH URC H P S H F ARLOUR OF GALLOW ILL ARM, BROMPTON H UTTON BUSCEL CH URC H TH E SAL TER SG ATE I N N I N T H E DEEP CANON OF NEWTON DALE TH E - C P C G MARKET PLA E , I KERIN A BRITI S H I D OL AT ALDBOROUG H FOUNTAIN S ABBEY FOUNTAIN S H ALL EFFI G IES IN WEST TANFIELD CHURCH MASHAM FROM ABOVE T H E BRI DG E WENS LEYDALE FROM LEYBURN S H AWL SEVENTEENT H - CENTURY HOUSE AT A S KRI GG

H OUS E AT BARNAR D CASTLE . EG G LESTON ABBEY SKETCH MAP OF YORKSHIRE

2 T H E Y O R K S H I R E CO A S T

entrance to the Humber . This regular forma

tion, proclaiming the uniform lack of serious

resistance to the inroads of the sea, is due to the fact that the whole of this portion of Yorkshire d a is composed of boulder y, the deposit formed by glacial action back in the Pleistocene period when a great layer of ice covered the northern

parts of England . p The eating away of the low cliffs of reddish a b rown clay of an average height of eighteen feet appears to have been going on without interruption for

a considerable time, certainly for the last thousand l years and probably for much longer . Ca culations based on the records of Domesday and on old maps and plans give a loss of land along thirty four and a half miles at the rate of seven feet one

inch yearly, the strip of Yorkshire cut away by the sea since 1 086 being well over a mile wide with the formidable total superficial area of

acres . If the same process has been operating since the beginning of the Roman occupation of

Britain , the loss may be increased to acres and the sea would have advanced two and a l ha f miles . H ull has often been given a bad name through ’ the existence of a thieves litany which says :

F ro m H l H e a nd H a i a x ul , ll l f , G o o d L o rd d eli v er us ; but this merely proves that the town was so well administered that the vagabond found it desirable al l to keep away , and though Hu l makes no claim K I N G S T O W N - U P O N - H U L L 3

ri to be either a tou st or a health resort , it has features of much interest , including one of the finest churches in the county and many modern buildings which give its chief streets architectural dignity . In volume of foreign trade Hull takes the third place among the ports of Great Britain , and its ’ first dock (Queen s) was completed in 1 778. At n that time it was the largest in England . Since the several others have been built . The King George O 1 1 Dock , pened in 9 4, is one of the largest and best equipped in the United Kingdom . ounder Edward I . is often regarded as the f of u al al H ll, but though he did a great de for the 1 2 port when, in 93 , he bought it from the monks

- - of Meaux and renamed it Kingstown upon Hull , yet it is quite an error to call him the founder . Hull was a busy port called Wyke- upon- Hull long before Edward was born . The records of the

- customs receipts on wool, rough sheep skins, and l 20 1 20 0 leather between Ju y , 3 , and November 3 , 1 20 S 5, how that this port was doing a trade in these commodities not far Short of hal f that of

- London , or one fourteenth of the whole wool and i leather trade of England . At the end of the th r t eenth century Wyke- upon- Hull had progressed to such an extent that one- seventh of this trade was transacted by it , and there can be very little ’ doubt that it was b eca use of Hull s importance al that Edward I . was led to bestow his roy favour ai upon it . A mediaeval king required to r se loans much as a modern government resorts to this 4 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

di al means of producing ad tion sources of supply, and no doubt Edward saw possibilities of borrowing heavily from the rich merchants of

the town . There can be little doubt that fourteenth l n century Hu l was a cheerful and growing tow , picturesquely surrounded on three Sides with al w ls studded with towers . On the east the defence was the river Hull in which lay a ll the

S al - hipping . A picturesque h f moon battery de fended the entrance to the river, across whose mouth a great chain lay in readiness to be drawn — up Should there be danger of an attack a method of defence common to nearly all ports in media val and later times . A further element of picturesqueness at Kings town- upon- Hull was present in its numerous wind mills which appear in the old pictures and prints 1 8 Si m of the town . As late as 32 xteen wind ills S al ri are hown ong the ver front , and Hull con t inues to be one of the most important milling a ll towns of England . W lls, towers and windmi s

- have gone, and it is not easy for the present day visitor who walks through the crowded streets of the great port to reconstruct in his mind the quaint and delightful place before the days of i all steam and electr city, and I advise who wish i to make an effort to bu ld up the past , to visit the Trinity House, the Grammar School , and the

L ow a t e. C . hurches of Holy Trinity and St Mary, g The building of Trinity House only dates from 1 i 753 , but it is a very sol d link with the early days H O L Y T R I N I T Y C H U R C H , H U L L 5

ll of Hu , for it was founded in the fourteenth l century as the Gui d of the Holy Trinity, was united with the Shipman ’ s Guild in the following S century, and has continued ever ince to be an al mshouse and a source of pensions for indigent seafaring men of the merchant service . The pictures and the interesting plate are Shown to visitors . Among the portraits is one of Andrew l Marvel , that curious mixture of politician and poet , who was born at Winestead and represented l Hu l in Parliament at the Restoration . It is recorded by Leland that the streets of Hull were paved with stone from the ballast brought ’ - fish from Iceland, the ships cargoes of stock being hi too light without t s additional weight , and it is roundly stated that Hull was admirably paved when the streets of London were still in an in tolerably bad condition . Holy Trinity is one of the largest churches in England and is mainly of the Decorated and i i s n Perpend cular periods . The l ghtnes of co struc tion was due to the need for keeping down the weight as much as possible, the foundations resting on little more than riverine mud . There n su es is little doubt , notwithsta ding the other gg ri tions made by various w ters, that the altar tomb under an arched Perpendicular recess is that of ri Sir William de la Pole and his wife Kathe ne . However little time is given to the examination of l the town , a few minutes shou d be allowed in order — to see the house in High Street a mean byway 1 ll r where was born in 759 Wi iam Wilbe force, 6 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T famous for his work in connection with the emancipation of slaves . ” d n Treuth He o . is, writes Leland in the reign of Henry VIII . , that when Hulle began to d eca ied flourish , Heddon , and a glance at the noble church tells one that no mere village could have produced anything so fine . There is a cathedral—like grandeur about the building which has earned for it the title The King of ” s Pa t rin Holdernes , the neighbouring village of g ton possessing The Queen . In plan it is cruci form with a Perpendicular central tower rising in two graceful stages to the parapet adorned with sixteen crocketed pinnacles . Hedon was a busy dl little port in the Mid e Ages, but it allowed its waterway to get silted up and overgrown with u di . reeds , and the H mber is now two miles stant Although no one seems to have taken the trouble a to settle the question definitely, I c nnot find it disputed that Hedon possesses what is probably the oldest civic mace in this country . It is a very beautiful piece of fift eenth- century craftsmanship

- - finel . silver gilt, and with a y elaborated head It seems quite probable that the road from Hedon to Patrington follows approximately the

- old shore line of the Humber, and in this con nection it is interesting to note the three tall Spires ri of Keyingham , Ott ngham and Patrington have been valuable landmarks for navigators ever since the picturesque seafaring days . n a u Keyigh m. The records of Mea x Abbey tell 1 2 of a thunderstorm in the summer of 39 , when T H E $U E E N O F H O L D E R N E S S 7 not only was the upper part of the spire of h Keyingham church t rown down, but stones were

dislodged from the walls, and even the oaken doors were split . So much reverence was felt l I n leb erd n for Phi ip de g , who was rector of Keyi g in ham early the fourteenth century, that he came i near to being canonised , wh le his subtlety in the learning of Aristotle brought him great renown when at Oxford . Ottringha m station is SO near to Keyingham that it is scarcely worth while to trouble to make l use of it if one has a ighted at the former . Only one and a half miles separate the two villages, and from Hedon all the way to the extremity of York a t l shire Ki nsea, from which proj ects the narrow causeway terminated by Spurn Head, there is i much of interest at some distance from the ra lway . Winestea d has al ready been mentioned as the d birthplace of An rew Marvell, whose life has been

. l so admirably written by Mr Augustine Birre l, dm who a its , however, that there is much con cerning the poet which is Shrouded in obscurity in regard both to his private life and his work for Charles I I . Pa trington is unchallenged as possessing the C ai finest village hurch in Great Brit n . It is one

l - of those quiet, sleepy, ha f forgotten places such as one finds here and there in France , possessed of an architectural treasure of which the present inhabitants are not a little proud, even if they can give no explanation as to how their village came to be so distinguished . The church is satisfying in B 8 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

so many ways that it is hard to conj ure up anything

to add to it . The whole belongs to the Decorated

PATRIN G TO N C H UR CH Ca e Th e een o f H o erness is t h e mo st ll d $u ld , bea u t iful p a ris h church in Engla nd

1 280—1 6 0 period ( 3 ) and is cruciform , with stately aisles to nave and transepts . The tower has a spire adorned at about a third of its height with a

1 0 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

l a ight in quite early days , but no one seems to t have been concerned wi h the matter until . a m Reedb arowe worthy hermit na ed Richard , who ar lived on the spot , petitioned p liament in the

reign of Henry VI . to provide a beacon , and from that time onwards some light has probably been S hown at Spurn Head . John Smeaton erected two lighthouses in 1 766 Showing lights at different ’ heights . The lower one was close to the water s m edge, and was destroyed by the waves three ti es al in forty years . These towers merely burnt a co brazier and were liable to be extinguished in a gale of any exceptional force owing to the terrific heat produced by the wind and the resultant melting of the bars of the beacon . The old high tower put up by Smeaton has been replaced by the present one, which is thirty feet higher and — shows a light of candle- power the most powerful on the east coast of England . While there is a story of quite absorbing interest to be found in the evolution of the modern light house with its dioptric refractors from the hermit ’ s R avenserodd primitive beacon flare, yet that of Ra venser Ra vens urne and or p , two towns of some consequence which at one time flourished j ust within the crescent- Shaped termination of Holder

ll . ar ness , is sti more remarkable Contempor y records prove beyond any doubt whatever that these towns existed in the fourteenth century, i but like Old W nchelsea in Sussex , they have been destroyed by the element through whose proximity they grew and prospered . T H E R I S E O F R AV EN SER O D D 1 1

It appears that Ravenser was a typical Danish settlement planted on the low shore within the

Shelter of the Spurn Head of those days . It is mentioned in an Icelandic saga in connection H aralld H ardra da 1 with the defeat of in 06 6 . About a century and a half later a sand- bank was t a formed opposite the lit le port , and it soon beg n

to appear as an islet and then grew steadily . A small vessel was wrecked there and an enter ri p sing fellow, who seems to have acquired the his surname De la Mare, took up abode in it and began forthwith a small victualling business

i . conven ent for passing ships He prospered, and t the island grew larger and yet larger . O hers were attracted to the spot and in an am azingly short O Ra venser space of time a new port grew up pposite , hi i Ra venser w ch in t me began to be known as Ald . am R a vensero dd The island assumed the n e of , although it very soon found itself j oined to the l main and by a pebbly ridge, so busy was the sea in disgorging the great meals it had partaken

along the whole shore south of Bridlington . Both 1 0 places continued to exist separately . In 3 5 R avenser was represented in parlia ment by two it s a of burgesses , and it is recorded that Edw rd I . in 1 298 granted a charter by which Ra venser od d became a free borough . The golden age of the twin ports had arrived in the first half of the ri fourteenth century, and G msby men on the opposite Shore felt the keen competition in the victualling business so acutely that they went to o law ab ut it and lost their case . They need not 1 2 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

have wasted time or money on lawyers, for the upstart Yorkshire rival ’s fate had been settled by natural causes . Some change in currents caused the deposit of detritus to cease inside the long

curving finger of Spurn Head, instead there came — a most Sinister change the sea b ega n to ta ke b a ck wha t it ha d so recentl iven - S y g , and far ighted people , among them the De la Poles , transferred

themselves to Hull and other ports . The records of Meaux Abbey tell a story of floods and inunda al tions and the gradu desertion of. the port of Ra venserodd i , and with it went the orig nal Ravenser - , so that to day there is nothing what

ever to be found of either place . Further, no attempt appears to have been made to refound

them elsewhere . The disaster to the mushroom 1 0 port occurred somewhere about 35 , so that when

Henry of Hereford (soon afterwards Henry IV . ) landed in the Humber in 1 399 the site was as

- desolate as it appears to day . From Patrington northwards runs a winding

road through Aldbrough to Hornsea . Only at

Mappleton is one taken near the shore, and a simple calculation can give the year when it will be necessary to divert this section of the highway

further inland . Whiteda k is the station on the Hornsea branch

line nearest to Aldbrough where, in the church , one finds another notable link with the days before England came under the heel of the Norman i Conqueror . Th s interesting obj ect is a circular Saxon sundial bearing an inscription from which YO RK M I N ST ER

-1 glimp se of til e grea t ea s t w indo wf rom fire south a isle of the choir

F ro m a phot og ra ph by t he a ut ho :

P A U L J O N E S T H E P I R A T E 1 3 one learns that Ulf bade rear a church to the ” u Gunwa r poor (or for himself) and for the so l of e. There seems very little doubt that the Ulf men t ioned on the sundial was the powerful Earl of ’ Deira who gave his lands to St . Peter s Minster finel - at York , where his y decorated horn may be ai ai seen to this day . It is f rly cert n that this stone was brought to the present church from ’ t he l S ear ier one, built by Ulf s orders and long ince destroyed by the encroachments of the sea . Among the monuments in this interesting church are two with recumbent efiigies representing with little doubt his Sir John de Melsa, or Meaux , and wife Maude . R owlst on C Hall, lose to Hornsea, a good mark from the sea, is interesting as having been the residence, in the latter part of the eighteenth l century, of William Brough , a marsha of the Admiralty who had earned the dislike of Paul

Jones . The house being an easy target from the sea , the pirate gave himself the satisfaction of a S i passing hot when sa ling along this coast , and one of the balls which arrived in this fashion is preserved in the house . H ornsea is a pleasant little seaside town and a summer resort of some importance , situated between the sea and its mere which is the largest al - a di natur lake in Yorkshire minor stinction , i al however, for with the exception of the art fici lakes produced for the supply of water to her large cities , Yorkshire can boast little in this direction . The mere is about two miles in length and is over al h f a mile broad, and its scenery is quite pleasing . 1 4 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

It contains pike, eel, roach and perch , and has been the haunt of fishermen throughout many 1 centuries . As long ago as 26 0 the respective ’ abbots of Meaux and St . Mary s , York , fell out over the fishing rights in the mere . To settle the matter it was decided to arrange a j udicial combat

H OR N S E A M ERE

al between champions selected by the riv abbeys . Although the scene of this remarkable conflict is not known , the result is recorded , for after a struggle lasting all day—the prize ring of to- day does not give such sustained pleasure for its — ’ support ers the men who fought for St . Mary s

Abbey had overcome their opponents , and the monks of Meaux were obliged thereafter to re

strict their angling to the streams of Holderness .

1 6 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

the confines of the chalk uplands—the Wolds of the East Riding—whose eastern extremity forms

the bold headland of Flamborough . The old town i i e r of Br dl ngton, group d round the great prio y C i hurch , quiet , sober and dign fied, is j oined to

the port of Bridlington Quay by a street of houses, but the two are as distinct in character as any ’ l two places cou d be . The Quay is a popular seaside resort , visited by multitudes from all over the country during the summer . The result is seen S along the hore , where the modern forms of enter t a inm ent popular with the present day visitor are displayed conspicuously . The visitor can pass his i time on the broad promenades , l sten to music and “ ” ri va ety performances , or enjoy the pleasures of S bathing and boating in the heltered bay . The quay retains a few indications of the

- architecture of the old times , when sea bathing , the cinema- house and other attractions were r unknown , from which to reconst uct the appear

22 1 6 . ance of the little harbour on February , 43 ri On that day Hen etta Maria landed there , bring ing with her the arms and ammunition purchased with the funds provided by the sale of the crown jewels of England . The unfortunate queen lodged in a house close to the quay on the night of

a m . her landing , and at about 4 was roused from sleep by a bombardment begun by four

Parliamentary ships . Shots were falling so thickly that she yielded to persuasion , and was hurried some little distance out of the town to the shelter of a ditch . On the way a sergeant was killed

B R I D L I N G T O N P R I O R Y 1 7

i with n twenty paces of Her, and although the bullets passed chiefly over the heads of the al Roy ists, some few onely grazing on the ditch ” where the Queene was, covered us with earth . It required five hundred carts to carry to York all the munitions the queen brought over . There were thirt y- Six brass and two iron guns and small arms for men .

The priory church , now the parish church of n ri l l al . B d i gton , was rapid y f ling into ruin The chancel had been taken down after the prior and his Augustinian canons surrendered the monastery ’

VIII . s to Henry commissioners, and this resulted l al in the fa l of the centr tower, the transepts being n i volved in the disaster . Even the nave was 1 8 s ri roofless when, in 57, the re toration was car ed out by Sir Gilbert Scott . Of the defences surrounding the priory there e— remains one sturdy featur the Bayle Gate,

i . which probably dates from the reign of R chard II , and belongs therefore to the beginning of the

Perpendicular period .

Northwards from Bridlington the flat , mono hi tonous coastline is left be nd , and all the way to Scarborough there is a picturesquely indented series of cliffs . The corner of the great cretaceous deposit forming the rolling uplands of the Wolds l - l lifts up the bou der clay high above sea leve , so that as Flamborough Head is approached a widening band of whiteness appears along the shore until the brownish- red is only a strip of colour above the gleaming Cliffs . Beyond Speeton 1 8 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T the chalk turns inland and forms the steep Slopes al overlooking the V e of Pickering . Filey Bay presents a fairly smooth curve of clay and gravel f cli fs , reaching to a height of two hundred feet . u h Fla mb oro g . Almost within living memory al the promontory outside the great artifici dyke, off marking it from the mainland , was a corner of in Yorkshire to be visited with caution . The habitants were excessively clannish , and there was a very pronounced dislike to strangers . Even to- day the fisher folk of Flamborough preserve in a very remarkable fashion characteristics which Show that they have for a long while mixed very little with other stocks . In the latter part of last century the careful work of General Pitt Rivers resul ted in the discovery that not only were the people of the headland rather taller than those of the neighbouring parts, but that all they were nearly dark haired, in marked con trast to the fair colouring so usual in Yorkshire . - di The sword dance , an ancient and excee ngly al interesting surviv of very early times , was kept up at Flamborough until quite recently, and superstitions long dead elsewhere still linger on the headland . A further discovery of great interest made by General Pitt Rivers was the error in naming the formidable ditch j ust referred to The Danes ’ 1 8 Dyke . Trenches cut through it in 79 proved di o very conclusively, by the fin ng of flint weap ns and flakes in large quantities , that the dyke was the work of prehistoric people not later thanjhe FLAM BOROU G H H EA D 2 0 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

Bronze Age . Throughout the Wolds the discoveries al- of prehistoric weapons and tools, of buri places , pottery and entrenchments have been so numerous that there can be no doubt whatever that these chalk uplands were Closely inhabited in the re f a an mote ages o stone and bronze . The dv tages of a natural fortress such as this sea- girt promontory possessed could not have been

overlooked , and if not permanently inhabited , it would have at least been a place of refuge

during times of war . The village of Flamb orough has an interest al C ing , though partially rebuilt , hurch . In it there can be seen the very long and detailed inscription Sir arm al to the memory of M aduke Langd e , that m grand old man of Tudor ti es , who , at the age of seventy , fought at Flodden Field after the fashion of Massinissa nothyng hedyng his age . w There are only two ways do n to the shore, one on the north and the other on the southern face of the headland . At the first , the fairly deep Cleft in the Cliffs is full of picturesqueness and u colo r, when the brilliantly painted fishing cobles are coming in, or are being prepared for sea . The process of unloading the spoils of the deep and getting them stored in baskets slung over the backs of the stout donkeys employed to carry n them up the steep pathway is worth seei g . The deep and picturesque caves , natural arches and isolated stacks dug out by the restless energy of r the waves are easily accessible . The mode n lighthouse on the headland has near it an old

2 2 T H E Y O R K S H I R E C O A S T

air Sk and y, springy turf beneath the feet and great Nature carrying out her slow but sure al methods of geographic modification . H unma nb y . At the entrance to a gap in the ll n face of the Wolds is the large vi age of Hu manby, two miles from the sea and overlooking the curve

of Filey Bay . I t is an attractive little place having a green ornamented with an old headless cross and a church the earliest portions of which

are Norman . F iley is one of the pleasantest little seaside

resorts of Yorkshire . It is not spoiled by over popularity although every schoolboy knows that ri t ri it possesses the B g . This is nei her b dge nor ri - l ship , but a cu ous breakwater ike reef composed of oolite rock underlying the glacial clay forming t he l f low sloping c i fs surrounding the bay . The Brig is composed of the same oo litic rock as that which rises to a height of 280 feet at Gristhorp f - Cli f, three miles to the north west . Its resistance

to sea action is considerable, but the process of S erosion is going on steadily, if lowly . t A low tide the Brig lures one to its extremity, - fishin n all even if sea g has no attractio s, but are warned against the obvious dangers of such a

reef, however flat and easy may be its surface .

' of To keep the public in mind the risk run, unless

sensible precautions are taken, is the manifest duty ri ile of all who desc be this feature of F y, but those who read no books and never dream of purchasing a guide will be warned by the tablet they may i M P notice inscr bed to the memory of the . . for

F I L E Y B A Y 2 3

i Nottingham and his w fe, who were both swept al away by a sudden tid wave . The sea- front is very leafy and has sheltered e paths traversing t h steep slopes . From these the views towards Flamborough add a great deal to the charm of the bay . Above a wooded ravine leading down to the shore is the Transitional Norman church with a plain and severe central ri tower, and the cu ous feature of a chancel lower n tha the nave . ile i nl From F y the ra lway goes i and to Seamer, l n whi e the road clings to the coast, and passi g close to Cayton soon brings the fine Sweep of ’ Scarborough s South Bay in view . CHAPTER II — THE YOR KSHIRE COAST FROM SCARB OROUGH TO THE TEES

THE revolutions which happen to particular ri places, from va ous contingencies , during the ” 1 course of ages , wrote Thomas Hinderwell in 1 8 79 , show the greatest instability of worldly l estab ishments, and ought to humble the pride of the most flourishing establishments . Was the

Queen of Watering Places, through the dis covery of medicinal waters and the j oys of sea h n bat i g, becoming in danger of excessive pride in her development from a small fishing town to a fashionable watering- place $ But Scarborough had had one foot placed on the ladder of fame m I as early as the reign of Ja es . , when a certain l ” Mrs . Farrow, a sensible inte ligent lady, dis covered the medicinal qualities of the springs l c ose to the shore, and the inhabitants must have become used to the growing importance of the w e to n . A glance at the engrav d frontispiece of ’ Hind erwell s Mr . excellent quarto does not suggest in any way that the spa had become at all aggressive i in ts architecture, for it appears as little more

than a cottage of the simplest type, and yet the

hr m o s t e b Photoc o Co. Phot o (0. ppo i ) y

u tis o S ca rb oro h The H istory a nd A nt iq i e f ug . 24

2 6 S CA R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

Yorkshire did not settle down quietly under the

Conqueror, and there can have been no chance of reconstruction between the date of the disaster and the compilation of the great record twenty years later. — In the reign of Stephen (1 1 35 54) the fortifi ca

tion of the rock began, and during that great period le of fortress building , William Gros , Earl of l Albemarle , as wel as the holder of the extensive ai dom n of Holderness, erected the first castle .

It , however, appears to have been indifferently built , for it is described as ruinous when Henry t he II . obliged great baron to deliver up the place ’ him a to . The m g nificent keep erected by Henry s orders still rears one hal f of its massive bulk i k le aga nst the S y. William Gros was so affected by the loss of his newly- built castle that he retired to Thornton in Lincolnshire , and , when he died , was buried in the abbey which he had founded there .

During the reign of Edward II . the feeling ’ Ga vest on against the king s favourite, Piers , came to a head in Yorkshire, and Edward , with the - on insolent Gascon , fled from York to Newcastle Tyne and escaped from thence by sea to Scar

. Ga vest on borough The king left in the castle , where he was besieged by the Earl of Pembroke, S and after a pirited defence, capitulated owing

to the exhaustion of his provisions . Not long afterwards he was beheaded on Bla cklow Hill in i Warwicksh re . From this time onwards the story of Scarborough TH E KEEP O F S C ARBORO UG H C AS TLE D uring th e P a rlia menta ry W a r t h e Ca st le p la yed a p ro m inent art a nd one o f it s t wo sie es as t e fo r o ver a ea r p , g l d y 2 8 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

a Castle m kes interesting reading, and its last appearance in the annals of England was during the prolonged siege from February 1 644 to July

16 45. The defence was conducted by Sir Hugh Cholmle w y of Whitby, who had his wife ith him throughout the whole time . The account of the ’ ’ Siege given in Sir Hugh s memoirs stirs one s emotions not a little , such a living portrait does ’ he give of the beautiful woman who shared the a privations of the g rrison without a murmur . One reads of her unmoved courage when her husband received from Sir John Meldrum , the m co mander of the Parliamentary forces, proposals for his surrender accompanied with the threat of l an immediate attack in case of refusa , with no quarter to be given for man or woman . The proposals were rej ected and the great assault e i was repulsed, M ldrum receiv ng a wound which proved fatal . One of the most singular stories any town in n di s Engla d can scover in its record is , I think , Aisla b ie that of the mayor of Scarborough , Thomas , 1 6 88 who held offi ce in . It was the year when the Declaration of Liberty of Conscience was pub

lished m . by Ja es II , and the mayor, having received instructions for the reading of the docu th e ment in public, gave it to Mr . Noel Boteler, l vicar, te ling him that it was to be read in church

w . on the follo ing Sunday morning This , however, all the was not at agreeable to clergyman, the motive for this move towards toleration being plainly visible to him . By this means Roman T H E M A Y O R I S T O S S E D 2 9

Catholicism was to be allowed to recover strength . The mayor was therefore inform ed t hat his e ri r quest was refused . Sunday ar ved and during the service in the church the omission beca me obvious ; the mayor was unable to control his i r feelings, and leav ng his seat st ode, stick in hand, the - s b e to reading de k, where he proceeded to l t . labour Mr . Bote er wi h energy There is no need to describe the indignation of the congregation at this outrage, and Scarborough Spent the rest of t w di the day, and many o hers follo ing, scussing f the a fair . Among those who took up the cause ‘ of the unfortunate parson was an oflicer nam ed Ousele ai y, and he with four other capt ns were busily considering the pros and cons of the case on the bowling- green on the Monday morning following, when someone suggested that it would be a goo d plan to ask the mayor to come and his explain action . A courteous message was e Aisla b ie s nt , therefore, to Mr . , but to this he f deigned to pay no attention . The o ficers decided a t al thereat to repeat it , accomp nied wi h a sm l party of musketeers . The mayor arrived on the bowling- green in a state of rage which must i s have made a quiet d scu sion obviously impossible , o e and s m one having produced a strong blanket , there were many ready hands to seize the four

S d a . ides , inclu ing those of the g llant captains l all How precise y it happened is not recorded , but somehow or other t he mayor found hims elf i r close to th s g oup, and before he had time to realise the situation he had been thrown bodily 3 0 S CA R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S upon the blanket and was being flung into the air in a manner which deprived him of breath di l as well as his last shred of gnity . A though there were no evening papers in Scarborough to announce that its mayor had been tossed in a i i blanket , the news spread w th incredible rapid ty, and r Aisla b ie re it became necessa y for Mr . to

. the pair to London to seek redress However, oflic r e s were too quick for him . Captain Ouseley al rri the l so hu ed to capita , and made such a good case that he received the king ’s pardon a few weeks later . After this experience Scarborough decided to have done with mayors , and in the same year reverted to the system of appointing two bailiffs i 1 8 wh ch had existed prior to 6 4. In December 191 4 the castle suddenly dis covered that in spite of the fact that for two and a half centuries it had been ignored as a place of military consequence, yet it was not being forgotten by the nation which had run amok in h Europe . German wars ips decided that it would be worth while to put a few shells into the media val ruins , selecting the old barracks , a small structure

l . on the castle hi l , as their target The building was empty and the damage caused was of no import s ance . Not content, however, with this demon tra tion, the Huns Shelled the town itself, causing loss of life and some damage without gaining for themselves any military advantage whatever . Ha b um W ke y y . For a few miles north of Scarbo rough the coas t consists of gritstone and ’ R O B I N H O O D S B AY 3 1 shale cliffs not rising much over one hundred

- l r feet above sea leve , and it is not until Haybu n Wyke is reached that one finds any picturesque u a feature . At this spot a beck t mbles through prettily wooded hollow and falls over limestone al o ledges on to the beach . This place is s a good

- starting point for rambles over the moors , where a stone circle and many other remains of the prehistoric inhabita nts are scattered far and wide . a le i Sta intond . From about a m le north of Hay i f burn Wyke beg ns Staintondale Cli f, the boldest continuous mass of cliff to be found on the coast ri i of Yorkshire . It continues to se unt l , at The ’ n Peak , overlooking Robin Hood s Bay, it attai s n 585 feet . On this commandi g height there 1 a l l stands a house, built in 774, c led Raven Hal , r now used as a hotel . It was du ing the digging of its foundations that an inscribed Roman stone 1 d was iscovered , and from it the fact became known that this comm anding height had been i n used in Roman t mes as a fort , Justinian bei g governor of the province at the time and Vindician al gener of the forces . ’ i a Rob n Hood s B y . Deep in its narrow hollow at th e northern end of the bay is the very quaint little fishing village named after the famous out law . I have never been able to discover any substantial evidence for associating Robin Hoo d s i s with thi remote place on the Yorksh re coa t , and am obliged to leave the matter in the realm an of tradition . In y case there is an atmosphere

N o w in hit M se m W by u u . 3 2 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S of smuggling days about the half- hidden village so satisfying that the average visitor feels quite sure that queer things must have happened here in the days before the railway ran its inquisitive

’ TH E A H D S B Y TOWN . ROBI N OO BAY

track close to the Sleepy little place . Modern houses are now dotted over the high ground , but the single narrow street down the cleft to the sea remains as it has been for many generations, r cleanli and the tradition of pe fect , almost Dutch, a i ness still prevails in most ple sing fash on . At the seaward end of the street the houses terminate

3 4 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

l f of St . Mary, also placed on the c i f top high above o al the harbour, and approached by a m st unusu flight of steps ; there is the abbey house which became the home of Sir Hugh Cholmley ; there is s the picture que seafaring life in the harbour, the ri pleasant boating up the ver Esk , the proximity

- of heather grown moorland, of wooded glen, and - h an exceptionally fine stretch of coast line . W en the weather compels one to keep under cover there is a museum and a library where the story of Whitby can be studied in a large room whose big windows command a fascinating view over the harbour . In Chapters V . and VI . the moorland walks and scenery are described . Modern Whitby has occupied the western side of the tidal waters of the inlet , and has not interfered with the old town , whose one long street and its many byways, steps, and passages are perched between the water and the East Cliff . From the upper end of the estuary, where the railway viaduct now spans the river, the view used to be

- exceedingly attractive, and even to day, in spite of a modern callousness to scene of such beauty, the panorama of Whitby is memorable . From the writings of Bede it is known that the first monas tery at the mouth of the Esk bore 6 the name St rea nesh alch . It was founded in 57 by Hilda, who had been Abbess of Hartlepool, the site having been given by King Oswiu of or h ri C N t umb a . Owing to her saintly haracter the new abbey prospered exceedingly ; Bede recounts how even kings and princes came long distances WH ITBY ABB EY AN D H A RBOU R Viewed from th e sho re t owa rds Sa ndsend 3 6 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

to get advice from the abbess . The monastery was for both men and women, and from it were taken five monks who became bishops, Bosa, Oftfor —a Hedda, , John , and Wilfred successor of ai 6 6 the famous s nt . About 4 there was held at the newly- founded abbey a synod of the greatest ri i importance . The idea of this council had o g nated Oswiu with , who had slain the heathen Penda, fi Win eld . King of the Mercians, in the battle of g He wished to settle the question of the j urisdiction of one of the two rival churches whose influences were clashing, and the two questions of importance discussed were the tonsure and the date of Easter . a Oswin favoured the Rom n cause, and the synod resulted in the universal prevalence of the j uris diction of the Church of Rome . Bede also gives a an account of the life of C edmon , a stable servant of the monastery who developed a wonderful power of poetic expression . Involved though this is in a mist of legend and miracle, the fact emerges that this man , in the humble employment of the

s . abbey, ranks among the earlie t English poets Until the incursions of the Danes in the ninth St rea neshalch century, flourished ; then, about 8 0 7 , occurred the hideous sacking which caused this centre of civilising influences to disappear until after the Norman Conquest . Having been refounded as a Benedictine house under the Norse name of Whitby, it continued to be of some import ance until the Dis solution in 1 540 . There exist many engravings which show the abbey ruins in much greater completeness than they now T H E A B B E Y H O U S E 3 7

appear . At the present day one sees only the chancel , the north transept , and a fragment of i i the nave , and even th s was damaged dur ng the

German bombardment al ready referred to . The domestic buildings were incorporated in the house

WH ITB Y H ARBOUR

’ “ St M ar s Ch r a nd h . y u ch t e Abbey a p p ea r o n t h e Ea st Clifl where Sir Hugh Cholmley took up his residence early in the seventeenth century . While the house was being repaired and being made habitable

- he lived in the abbey gate house , and the altera tions carried out in his time no doubt masked and destroyed much of the Gothic structure which Sir Richard Cholmley had purchased from Henry ’ VII I s . commissioners . 3 8 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

The curious old church of St . Mary, whose massive embattled tower adds so much picturesque the s ness to East Cliff, is so disfigured with gallerie a nd the churchwarden type of high pew that it can almost Claim to surpass in grotesque ness any other parish church in the kingdom . There is hardly a corner in which it has been p ossible to introduce a clumsy gallery which has not been amply filled , and the impression on first entering the solemn old building is that o ne has strayed by accident into a nightmare i beeh ve . The structure preserves externally its

Norman and Early English characteristics . The lias shale of the Whitby coast is of intense interest to the palaeontologist . It has yielded very fine specimens of the plesiosaurus , e the ichthyosaurus, and a t leosaurus found at wick Salt . Nab Belemnites, ammonites , and a variety of other sea creatures of the Mesozoic

Age are strewn lavishly on the beach . The ammonites were observed in the far- off days of sa intli Hilda , and the superstition arose that her ness had such wonder- working powers that she could turn into stone the snakes infesting the

neighbourhood . From Whitby a smooth three miles of shore terminates at the suitably- named village of Sands e nd al , where bold cliffs of alum sh e stand out ai ag nst the merciless battering of the ocean .

Two valleys, deep , long and heavily wooded, run very close and parallel courses from the moor l and heights down to the shore at Sandsend .

40 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S wander along the delightful paths by the Splashing waters of the beck which pours its waters among

- - moss grown rocks and sweet smelling ferns . At the seaward end of the southern valley is East

Row, a hamlet now j oined to Sandsend by new villas for summer visitors . A very steep hill mounts up from Sandsend to the village of Lythe, where stands a weather stained little church to which the people of the hamlet below have climbed for many generations past . It is a fine situation overlooking the sweep ing curve of Dunsley Bay, with the piers of Whitby

standing out among the waves . Reference to this bay reca lls the theory that — this was Dunum Sinus the point where the Roman road from York through Malton and 10 Cawthorne Camp (p . 9) reached the sea . The smooth sand would no doubt have been a con

n - venie t landing place in good weather . l s Kett enes . High above the delicious little bay of Runswick is a convenient station where one can alight and find spread out before one as fine a r coast view as Yorkshire possesses . A ve y steep and uncertain path descends the great cliff of al al - crumbling sh e , and from a point h f way down a very attractive picture presents itself with the t iny fishing hamlet from which the bay takes its

name perched on the steep green slopes opposite . Above and beyond are the heathery moorland

wastes , chequered on their nearer slopes with

patches of cultivation . It is generally possible to find a boat to take one C O L L A P S E O F A V I L L A G E 41

Ket tleness across the bay from the side, and while crossing it is easy to see where the fall of the grey cliff in 1 829 caused the destruction of several cottages forming part of the village perched on — the cliff top . Subterranean rumbling sounds so

RUN SVVI C K BAY FRO M K ETT L EN ESS alarmed the occupants of the houses that they ar the b a hurried on bo d a sailing vessel lying in 1 y, and thus witnessed in safety the disturbing sight of the collapse and complete disappearance of i the r homes . u Instead of crossing by boat , one can walk ro nd

- the bay and see a cave known as Hob Hole . 42 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

According to the local superstition only lately

- a—bandoned, there lived here a well disposed hob a kindly little fellow whom no one had ever in i seen , but who would, if asked the r ght manner,

i - cure a ch ld of whooping cough . Beyond its Charming situation and the pic t uresqueness of a confusion of red roofs and patches of neatly- kept garden Runswick possesses n no i terest . There is cottage accommodation to be had in the village during the summer, and the simple but very good fare includes all the ri va eties of Yorkshire cakes and scones , the mere mention of which recalls memories of never to- b e- forgotten meals enj oyed after long days on the moors . Hinderwell is a short stroll up the cliff . , and here , too , quarters can be found during the summer with the convenience of a station on the spot . a ih s St t e . Two becks whose sources are high on the Cleveland Hills find their way to the sea , through a dale whose entrance is marked by i ri Colburn Nab, and at th s point is the cu ously ramshackle village of Staithes . It has for many centuries been the home of a very fine type of

- North Sea fisherman . He can be seen there to day altered but little from his ancestors , who lived their lives as remote from softening influences as any highlanders of the present generation in some inaccessible western loch . It was , I am credibly dif informed , a f icult matter in times gone by to stroll into Staithes without running the risk of being a target for stones . Probably the same B O U L B Y C L I F F S 43 spirit of wariness found in all remote communities unused to casual intercourse with strangers made for a certain hostility . The business of getting the boats ready for sea and the unloading and packing of fish is very largely carried out by the ill women of the v age , and the scenes on the shore are often so full of colour and picture - making qualities that one is not surprised to find that artists are now very attached to the village . A flat shelf of rock of the Jurassic Age is left i bare by the waves at low tide , and from th s can be seen a very impressive view of the great cliffs of Boulby . They are the highest on the - l n 6 6 0 whole of the English coast i e , reaching feet , and are a great sea- washed buttress of the

Cleveland Hills . L o tus f , although in a very pleasing situation, al makes no appe to the wayfarer . I t is chiefly composed of the unattractive rows of houses considered suitable for those who earn their livelihoo d in mines or factories- some of the iron- mines and smelting works of the Cleveland district being situated here . During the eighteenth

l - fishin century , when the Green and whale g enter prise flourished at Whitby, the ample supply of whal ebone gave rise to the stay- making industry at Loftus . It appears to have died out when t he whalers ceased to bring their catches to the neighbouring port . Even if one has no great inclination to remain al long at Loftus , it is essenti to pause long enough to hear certain strange stories belonging to the 44 S CA R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

neighbourhood . One of them is the tradition associated with a circular mound and standing

l . stone near the vil age At this spot a dragon , al al ri so c led a g sly worm , was slain by some coflin doughty personage, whose stone lid is pointed out for the discomfi t ure of doubters . l There are no detai s to help the story, and no one appears to have found the bones of this worm ; but stay, there may be some basis for the tradition after all . There was discovered at Loftus in the middle of last century a fine example of the

— - plesiosaurus a giant liz a rd like creature of those r remote ages when the Ea th was younger . To bridge the yawning gap between the saurian and the worm of tradition is a matter I leave to the reader, while I proceed to recount a story still stranger on account of the amazingly circumstantial manner of presentation b y a writer as near our own times as the year 1 535. Some fishermen of Skinningrove (between Loftus and the sea) one day hauled into their boat a ” - - merman , or sea man as the sixteenth century writer gives it . He was taken up to a disused house and for several weeks he remained there, — living on the raw fish supplied to him he woul d n touch nothing else . Crowds came to Skin ingrove u i to see the creat re, and found his manners del ght fully courteous . It was noticed that he paid great attention to any fayre mayd es among his r visitors , gazing at them ve y earnestly, as if his phlegm a tick e breaste had been touched with ” a sparke of love . It appears that in time it was A SEA - MAN 45

’ ’ r no one s affair to watch the creatu e s movements, and in this way one day he managed to regain the element from which he had been taken . Many more details are given which the curious can read for themselves in the document from which

I have quoted . ri Beyond the next dge from Loftus, and at the ul foot of the Skelton Beck, is the pop ar seaside holiday resort—of Saltburn . Saltb urn- by the- Sea has a pier and a long stretch of sand at the foot of low grassy cliffs composed of reddish clay . It is a place of recent growth , and its history is all associated with its development al as a summer resort . The low alluvi land towards the estuary of the Tees is spread out as a map al if viewed from the higher ground behind S tburn , and the wide panoram a includes the southern portion of the county of Durham . Redca r and Coatha m form a double town to which the people of crowded Middlesbrough and other towns further inland have easy access . All the usual forms of amusement for the artisan holiday crowds are provided at Redcar , and when this has been said there is little to add , save a mention of the fine stretch of sand which reaches beyond Saltburn to the foot of Hunt clifi Nab . Th e two watering- places are obviously the 0& spring of Middlesbrough , and their continued existence is more or less ancillary to the prosperity

- of the iron making town . M iddlesb rough is the younges t of the great ri e indust al cities in the United Kingdom . B fore 46 S C A R B O R O U G H T O T H E T E E S

1 82 x s 9 the place did not e i t , and the land on which it now stands might have remained grass- grown had not a smal l group of enterprising men con ceived the idea of creating a port for the shipping al of coal . The discovery of both co and iron in the Cleveland district close by secured the future of W the new town , hose population is now

- The exports of pig iron have fluctuated, and the town has had ups and downs of fortune owing to the limited nature of its enterprise . The blast furnaces are now very numerous and they include n some of the largest existi g . As a town , there is little to say that is flattering . The streets are wide and the building material is largely red brick employed without inspiration .

48 S E L B Y A N D S O U T H O F Y O R K

Westward from the railway is Stillingfleet

where one finds , in the midst of pretty scenery , C s another hurch of absorbing interest , also posse s ing a door of about the same period as that of

Skipwith . The ironwork is more interesting on di account of the figures and the boat it splays, and the woodwork is so obviously of early date al that it may easily be coeval with the met . The doorway is a fascinating example of very highly enriched Norman work . A chapel , founded in the first half of the fourteenth century by Nicholas

Moreby, is full of interest and contains a Moreby efli gy and other good tombs . It is known that H aralld Hardra d a brought some of his ships up the Ouse to Stillingfleet in 1 066 , and a story , possibly based on fact , has been preserved in the locality of the nailing to the door of the church of the skin of one of the Norse (or

Danish) invaders . Cawood is a quaint little old - world market - town

on the banks of the Ouse . Here one can see the picturesque remains of the palace of the Archbishop 1 0 of York , where , in 53 , Wolsey , not long after his

fall , was arrested by the Earl of Northumberland . Selby sta nds on the banks of the Ouse in the flat green country of the southern hal f of the

Vale of York . It has had the good fortune to C i preserve its abbey hurch , and dominated by th s noble pile the town cannot fail to have a note of distinction despite the featurelessness of the sur n rounding la dscape . Shortly before midnight on e 1 1 0 6 n u s Octob r 9, 9 , great red to g e of flame were B U R N I N G OF S E L B Y A B B E Y 49 seen shooting out of the north side of the abbey church , and all night long the fire burnt furiously in spite of great efforts on the part of fire brigades

TH E N ORM A N D OO RWA Y OF S TILLI N G FLEET C H U RCH Th e iro nwo rk is a m o ng t h e o ldes t in Engla nd

f ar e . from as as L eds and York When conquered , the confla gra t ion had consumed almost all that a was infl mmable . While by great good fortune the magnificent Norman nave only suffered the 50 S E L B Y AN D S O U T H O F Y O R K

loss of its roof, the heat in the north transept was so intense that great stone piers were calcined

to half their thickness . Funds were forthcoming

an d - I t for the work of restoration , to day is hard al to re ise the magnitude of the disaster, so great

has been the skill displayed in repair . The story of the founding of the Benedictine monastery at Selby is given in great detail by a

monk of the abbey . From it one hears of a monk

of Auxerre , named Benedict , who came up the Humber in a small vessel and landed in 1 069

at the spot where Selby now stands . Yorkshire had recently been devastated by Northmen and ’ William the Conqueror s army, and it was said that there was not an occupied monastery left in the

country . The new king , however, encouraged

Benedict with a grant of land and other aid later ,

and may therefore be called the founder .

Wooden buildings were erected, and twenty

seven years later, Hugh , the second abbot , began

the first stone structure . There is little doubt that some of his work exists to - day in the eastern o p rtions of the nave and aisles , and the proba b ility that they were designed by the same hand

as the nave of Durham Cathedral is great . In

spite of the fire , the choir contains much that is n interesting , includi g some of the grave slabs of

the early abbots . It is to be doubted if the records of any religious

house are free from grave misdemeanour, and

Selby can certainly claim no such distinction . Possibly few monasteries were cursed with such a

M O N A S T I C L A X I T Y 51

all head as Abbot Thomas de Wh ey , who was ’ deposed as the result of Archbishop Wickwaine s 1 2 —80 a visit in person in . From the m ny charges 79 — against this abbot the following are quot ed z He did seldom heard matins out of bed , he not preach al or teach , was haughty and m icious towards his i ar brethren , never slept in the dorm tory , r ely entered the choir , was quarrelsome and negligent and ill- deposed in a ll that pertained to divine f al b af airs , and, in short , was together incorrigi le .

Further than this , he was found guilty of improper relations with the lady of Whenby, as well as a girl named Bodema n who lived at the monastery

i - gate . Th s abbot was also a hot tempered type , for on one occasion he showed violence in the C hoir , from which he dragged William de Storm wort he . From others he caused effusion of blood, and if this catalogue of impropriety were not al enough , he was so charged with incantation and sorcery . This little book could easily be filled with the grave scandals found in the abbeys of a ri i al Yorkshire reve led by the pe od c visitations, and the more one studies them the greater is ’ one s amazement at the average la xity of rule discovered . H a mbleton . From this station it is about five miles to the village of Birkin , where a gem of

Norman architecture is to be found . This village foi' church ranks with that of Adel , near Leeds , its completeness and excellent state of preservation . It has had little alteration besides the addition of ai ai an sle and the r sing of the tower by a storey, 52 S E L B Y A N D S O U T H O F Y O R K and it contains many features of interest in addition to its very perfect vaulted apse . l r S outh M ifo d . A little more than a mile to the

- in- north is Sherburn Elmet , a village on rising i ground, where the site of a palace can st ll be seen in a field known as Hall Garth . It may have been

at some time a royal residence , but of this there is no evidence , and there is little enough to prove anything as to its having been a palace of the

archbishops of York . Traditionally Edward IV . Climbed the tower of the Norma n church on the eve of the battle of Towton , fought in a snow l 1 6 1 storm on Pa m Sunday , 4 , a few miles to the north on the Tadcaster road . The Lancastrians were defeated , the bloodshed was horrible , and

Henry VI . and Margaret were compelled to seek

safety in Scotland . In the churchyard there are portions of two ancient stone crosses and in the church itself

there are many Saxon fragments of interest . Te e r m l Hist . i p About five m les to the east , ai close to the Aire , is Sn th , a pleasant little town with an interesting church of several periods , and a few miles further down the river one reaches Raw i cl ffe , the home of that most strangely eccentric 1 8 character, Jemmy Hirst . He was born in 73 , and at school at Pontefract was soon discovered r to be an incorrigible little scapegrace . Th ough S out his life this love of mad escapades was hown . When following the hounds he rode his favourite ” bull Jupiter, and would appear at Snaith f market on his back . With much di ficulty he

54 S E L B Y A N D S O U T H O F Y O R K its history one finds records of many a royal visit to the town caused by the need for halting for the night . In this way James VI . of Scotland stopped at the Sun and Bear Inn in 1 6 03 on his way to

London to assume the crown of Great Britain .

I . 1 6 Charles , in 44, attended service in the great parish church which was destroyed by fire in 1 853 . The present building is entirely modern from the l designs of Sir Gi bert Scott and Lord Grimthorpe .

Conisborough Castle , about five miles south west of Doncaster, rears its great circular keep conspicuously above this portion of the valley of the Don and is famous in fiction through its ’ va nhoe appearance in the pages of Scott s I . The presence of coal in this district is causing the Sir destruction of the charm of a place which , in ’ al was dl al W ter s time , undoubte y one of exception beauty . There can be little doubt that the Saxon ar kings had a palace here, and the tificial mound crowned by the keep belongs probably to that time . Wres le s . The great bo rder family of Percy held an d two castles in Yorkshire , one at Wressle the L an econfield . d other at The latter has gone ,

Wressle is , strangely enough , the only castle left t in the East Riding . It consists now of no hing more than the burnt- out shell of two towers and i fire 1 6 the walls connect ng them , a in 79 having S destroyed all the woodwork . The other three ides of the castle were demolished by order of parlia ment in 1 648. In the portion of the quadrangle

- spared were the great chamber or dining room , the C a drawing h mber and the chapel , and but for the L I F E AT W R E S S L E C A S T L E 55 tragedy of the fire one might have seen to - day the rooms which are described as having been richly ornamented with a profusion of ancient ” sculpture . A very great interest attaches to

Wressle in connection with a rema rkable MS . 1 1 2 al The Booke o compiled about 5 . It is c led f all the Directions a nd Orders for kepynge of my L ordes H ous erel y y, and in it are found details of the establishment and regulations for running ’ the Earl of Northumb erla nd s household at this and L econfield castles . From the brushing of t ak clo hes and the b ing of bread, to the number of people who slept in each bed, when the household moved, and the meals consumed in Lent , no details mi are ssing , in fact a study of this volume enables one to get a Closer view of a princely household at the b eginmng of the sixteenth century than anything else existing . Hemingborough church (once collegiate) is cru eiform and has a remarkable spire 1 20 feet in n height rising above the central tower . The tra r f l septs are ve y beauti u Perpendicular work, and i there is much fine woodwork, includ ng carved bench ends . Howden is a name well known to historians on account of the chronicle written in the twelfth Hov en ed . century by Roger de , or Howden The i Hemin b orou h splendid church was , l ke g g , col le ia t e . g , and it , too , was a foundation of Durham There is a most noble Perpendicular central tower C - l and a hapter house in ruins , bui t very early in

the same period . E 56 S E L B Y A N D S O U T H O F Y O R K

Between Selby and Spurn Head there are thus five of the most notable churches in Yorkshire — the two j ust mentioned , Holy Trinity, Hull ,

and those of Hedon and Patrington . Church F enton im , a railway junction of some ir - portance , has a good th teenth century church , and near by is the site of Towton Field where

1 6 1 . Edward IV . gained his decisive victory in 4

TAD CAS TE R C H UR CH FROM TH E B RI D G E

Ta dca ster is a brewing town of great antiquity ; it seems to have begun the industry as long ago

as the thirteenth century , and at the present day its huge brew- houses lift their great bulk high

above the horizon when viewed from afar . There is no doubt that the Roman town of

Calcaria was situated here, and there would certainly have been a bridge at this place to carry the road from Eb ora curn to Ma ncunium T H E T O M B S A T H A R E W O O D 57

C (Manchester) . The Perpendicular hurch em bowered in fine trees makes a delightful picture

viewed from the bridge over the Wharfe . Tadcaster itu possesses the oldest English milestone in s . r Ba dsey. A very pretty walk of about five miles leads through East Keswick and along a straight tree- bordered road to the entrance gates of i ict ur Harewood Park , adjoin ng which is the p

- a n esque stone built village . Harewood House is

- eighteenth century structure , classic and gloomy , situated in an admirable position on a terrace overlooking a lake backed by a densely- wooded

l . da e The church in the park stands near the house,

- and a long half mile from the village . It would not be interesting were it not for the magnificent series of fift eenth - century altar- tombs and efligies to be found in a Chapel south of the chancel . These are chiefly to the memory of the Redman and Ryther families . All lack inscriptions except that to the r memo y of Judge Gascoigne , who was chief j ustice ’ of the King s Bench in the reign of Henry IV . , and , according to the tradition , to which Shake a m speare m kes allusion , com itted the Prince of al W es (afterwards Henry V . ) to prison for con ’ “ fli al tempt of court . Gascoigne s e gy in abas ter fi appears in his robes of of ce , and by him is the graceful figure of his wife Elizabeth wearing the cr s in i attractive e p e and veil head dress of the t me . The old castle of Harewood is a most interesting ruin , easily seen from the road where it bends towards the bridge across the Wharfe .

If, instead of crossing the river, one continues 58 S E L B Y A N D S O U T H O F Y O R K

for a mile in the direction of Otley, a turning to n the left can be taken leadi g to Adel , some five or six miles to the south . The village church there has already been referred to in connection with n ai Birki , its rival cl mant to being the finest Nor man church in the county . The south doorway is built out under a gable after the fashion of King Cormac ’s chapel at Cashel and some of the most notable of the early Irish churches . CHAPTER IV

YORK AND THE WOLDS

C RC E e l all EN I L D by medi va w s, whose regularity is relieved by four of the most strikingly picturesque gateways in England , York at once arrests the interest of the wayf arer . So often does the modern aspect of a place of great historic import ance disappoint those who come from far to bask h l in an atmosp ere of the Midd e Ages , that the al visitor is most overwhelmed when , on leaving n the railway station , he fi ds that he cannot enter the City without either passing through a gateway or arch , or scaling a steep grassy bank surmounted by a crenellated wall in perfect repair, and within t C his ircle of defence , despite a thousand features hi w ch j ar, there remains so much that belongs to the long centuries of the city ’ s existence that it is easy to wander from age to age seeing little besides the actual buildings of each period . The very beginnings of the city can be studied ff ’ at the castle , where Cli ord s Tower now crowns an artificial mound generally regarded as the chief defensive feature of the British settlement al of Eboracum . The site was natur ly a strong one at the confluence of the Fosse and the Ouse .

For the next period , when York had been brought 59 6 0 Y O R K A N D T H E W O L D S

is under the control of Rome , there the massive multangular tower at the western angle of the walls , and in the museum and its grounds many remains of the Roman occupation can be studied . Following the detachment of Britain from Roman control came the long centuries of invas ion and disorder, and of this period there is the tower

u . of the ch rch of St Mary (Bishophill) Junior . It appears to consist of Roman materials used ag ain in Saxon times . In the crypt of the minster, l too , there are wa ls of Saxon masonry , and it is

' ULF S H ORN A S a x on d rinki ng horn p reserv ed in York Minst er quite possible that they belong to the church r n ri const ucted by Edwin , Ki g of Northumb a , who was converted to Christianity by Paulinus . Also in the minster can be seen the horn of the

Ul hus 1 . Saxon Ulf or p referred to on p . 3 Of the

Norm an period the remains are more numerous . Besides the minster crypt there are doorways and other features of this style of architecture in l severa churches . From this age onwards the visitor can study every period from existing buildings . Merely to mention them all would take more Space than this f s u sketch can a ford , but tho e that sho ld on no account be missed after seeing the glories of the

T H E G E M S O F Y O R K 6 1

’ ’ minster are St . William s College ; St . Mary s ’ Abbey and the King s Manor, a fine Tudor building ’ incorporating the remains of the abbot s house ; 1 6 the Guildhall , erected in 44 ; the Merchant ’ f ’ Venturers Hall ; Clif ord s Tower, on the ancient mound in the castle enclosure ; the four chief Bootham Walm a t e an d a t es i. e. g , , Monk , g Mickle gate Bars ; and some of the more interesting Pet er a t e churches . Stonegate , g and the Shambles give one a very good impression of the picturesque

- ness of the streets of sixteenth century York, and scattered all over the city are to be found curious i l old fronts and qua nt corners . These are ikely to become fewer unless the citizens form a strong body for their preservation . The west front is not the best feature of the ill w minster, the towers compare ith the splendid di l ali gnity of the centra one , and as though reve ng ’ the City s indifference to this aspect of its mighty o fane , a c ntemptible little row of mean and featureless brick houses has been built facing it . i l The r remova is imperative , and it is to be hoped that early action will Show the world that the people of York are able to appreciate the wonderful legacy from the Middle Ages with which they have been entrusted . From the wall between Bootham and Monk Bars one of the finest views of the minster can be e njoyed . The Perpendicular eastern portions , with a s the gr ceful lesser tran epts , the Early English north transept and the chapter- house are all seen to great advantage without having to crane the hea d 6 2 Y O R K A N D T H E W O L D S

ffi backwards or run risks from passing tra c . Every period of English architecture is represented in

the vast pile , and to those who are interested in wi stained glass , the ndows are a dream of wonderful colour and interesting design ; and having brought the reader to these lovely survivals of Gothic

craftsmanship I can leave him to pursue his way,

- guide book in hand , in search of the architectural treasures for which the city holds a position of proud pre eminence . Between York and the low coastal region of Holderness is the great crescent of chalk wolds whose horns are at Flamborough and a little to i the north of Hull . It is a roll ng upland country

of smooth contours , with steep slopes to the west il and north . Unt the eighteenth century this great district has been described as one vast sheep

walk , and on these wide upland pastures large quantities of the wool and hides which found their

way to Hull were grown . It is now largely an agri

cultural country , and is dotted over with half

forgotten villages , where the churches sometimes

possess features of great interest . A choice of two lines of railway pres ents itself : that to Market

Weighton , where branches go to Beverley and

Great Driflield ; and the line to Malton . Com mencin first - g with the mentioned , a halt must be

called where the road crosses the Derwent . Sta m ord Brid e f g . It was here , in the fateful year 106 6 , that Harold completely defeated his brother all Tosti and the Norse under Ha r d Ha rdra d a . al The centr point of the battlefield , according to ' B A T T L E O F STAMF O RD B R I D G E 6 3

the descriptions in existence , was the bridge , in situated then higher up the river, doubtless line with the Roman road . If one follows the main road to Great Driflield

S T AMFOR D B RI DG E N ea r th i s p o int o n t h e D erwent Tost i wa s defea t ed by his brot h er H aro ld o f Engla nd and turns to the left at the fork beyond the t um ing to Skirpenbeck , one reaches Bugthorpe , where a curiosity in ecclesiology is found in the church , C which has two hancel arches , one Norman and the the other (to east) Decorated . Two miles al further on is Kirby Underd e , placed , as its name C f indicates , at the foot of the steep halk blu fs, 6 4 Y O R K A N D T H E W O L D S whose greatest elevations are five hundred feet higher . It is one of the most delightfully situated di villages in the East Ri ng . The church is an interesting example of Transitional Norman , and it is interesting to recall that Bishop Thirlwall , Histor o rector of the parish , completed his y f r e G eec while he held the living . It is worth the effort to make the ascent of the h vi chalk amp itheatre , and get the vast ew over the Vale of York , with the towers of the minster about a dozen miles away . The descent towards Pocklington can be made by a lane leading to l Bishop Wi ton , where an entrenched site may indicate the position of a palace , for the arch bishop certainly held land here in Saxon times . Apart from this feature the village is notable for w its fine Norman church , restored ith great e e thoroughn ss , if with som lack of discretion . ton P ockling . This little town is adorned by the ' tall Perp endicular t ower of its spacious cruciform

Church . Notable features are the carving of the al capit s in the Early English nave , a credence a n l table in the choir, a Norman font and E iza u Dolrnan bethan mon ment to Thomas , who is

- shown on his death bed . Pocklington has a grammar school dating back to the reign of

Henry VIII .

N unb urnholme. Close to this station is the i church of Burnby, containing many interest ng features and a very curious lancet window in the Nunb urnholrne south wa ll of the chancel . itself has a quaint little Norman church standing away L O N D E S B O R O U G H 6 5

- l from the village . A steep sided va ley, wooded to the north , penetrates the face of the Wolds in some what picturesque fashion , and leads to the model i v llage of Warter . The site of the Augustinian

Priory , near the church , has been excavated , and among other discoveries , there was brought to light the stone slab of Prior Thomas Brydlyng ton , one of the last to hold office before the suppression . A pleasant upland road command ing extensive views takes one to Londesborough , a place of great historic interest , for it is perhaps the site of the Roman Del ovitia g , and a Roman road certainly came here . an Further th this , it is po ssible that this place N ORMAN WI N D OW was chosen by kings N UN BUR N H OLME CH UR CH of Northumbria for a al if summer p ace . At one time the Cl fords held s o Londe b rough , and in the church is a brass , 1 a f dated 493 , to Margaret , L dy Clif ord , wife of the l ” ninth Lord Clifford , ca led The Butcher, on account of his having callously slain the Earl of

Rutland after the battle of Wakefield . Their son w ” Henry was kno n as The Shepherd Lord, on account of his having been sent for safety to the 6 6 Y O R K A N D T H E W O L D S

cottage of a shepherd by whom he was brought

up , quite without education , until he reached the

- age of thirty two , and was able to recover his

property after Bosworth had placed Henry VII .

on the throne . M a rket Weighton is a small town at an impor '

tan t junction of roads and railways . The name is perhaps derived from its position near the

Roman road to the Humber and Brough . It is possible that the lower part of the church tower may be Norman . Here was born the fam ous Yorkshire giant

William Bradley , whose height is given as seven l feet nine inches , and his weight , when on y nineteen - i . as years old , was twenty seven stone As he d ed recently as 1 820 there is no reason to doubt these remarkable figures . About a mile out on the Driflield road the Norman Church of Goodmanham attracts atten tion . The place is mentioned by Bede as the scene

. a Coifi of the destruction of a p g an temple by ,

- the newly converted high priest of Edwin , King in of Northumbria . So impressive was the teach g l S Coifi of Pau inus , that , to how his zeal , found it necessary to take some drastic and imme diate step towards the destruction of the old l i be iefs , and, demand ng a stallion and weapons, ” Godmunddin a h he rode forthwith to g am . Throwing his spear into the temple he proceeded to burn it down . Ki lin Cotes - 1 1 p g has had a race course since 6 8. The annual meeting takes place on the third

B E V E R L E Y M I N S T E R 6 7

u Th rsday in March , and on the same day a game l n resemb i g polo is played . r urton l the Cher y B . About a mi e to west is an i rm Etton , an old village with interest ng No an C i hurch , conta ning the curious feature of the

Royal Arms sculptured in stone . In the modern church of South Dal ton is an interesting tomb to

Sir John Hotham . It is of Italian workmanship, and consists of four female figures each resting on one knee , and supporting at the four corners a fi slab of black marble—, whereon is the ef gy of a knight in armour his head covered by a flowing wig $ le Bever . y Here one has left the Wolds , and is on the Plain of Holderness ; the site of the town is therefore perfectly flat , and the place can be said to be entirely without natural advantages . Yet

Beverley is an attractive town , with one of the — pleasa ntest squares in the county the Saturday wi i l market , adorned th a qua nt pi lared cross of Georgian date . Above the red brick houses ’ i ul r ses the sturdy Perpendic ar tower of St . Mary s

Church , and on one side a long range of steep roofed houses of the eighteenth century . Beyond the church is a red brick gateway , the last of those the town used to posses s . i di The m nster is in plan excee ngly perfect , with double aisles to the transept (a rare feature) , a and a tr nsept to the choir of singular beauty . In its general external aspect the building reminds m al one of West inster Abbey, for instead of a centr tower there is only a low cap ; the transepts and 6 8 Y O R K A N D T H E W O L D S

C hoir are Early English , and the nave beginning

in the Decorated , but much influenced by the i previous style , terminates with two exceed ngly u gracef l Perpendicular towers at the west end . The latter give an indication of how much West minster has suffered through having towers com p let ed as late as the beginning of the eighteenth

- century . The chapter house , formerly standing a t the j north of the choir, has vanished, and the immediate surroundings of the minster are quite unattractive ; there is no attempt to produce the quiet dignity of a close . After this has been said there is nothing but praise to bestow on this superlatively lovely achievement of the Go thic architect . One of the remarkable features of the i nterior is the tomb of Lady Eleanor Percy , a superb example of the richest sculpture of the

Decorated period . Above the arch is a figure of the Deity holding in His hands a winding- sheet from which rises a figure representing the soul of l C Lady Eleanor . In the north ais e of the hoir is the i C - double staircase lead ng to the hapter house , and close to the Percy Chapel is the ancient

Frid Stool . Seated upon it , anyone claiming sanctuary could consider himself safe from further pursuit or danger .

In the latter part of the seventh century , it is said that St . John of Beverley founded a monastery here , and eventually died and was buried in it . the i s In n nth century , when the Dane were burn n i i g and destroying throughout Northumbr a , the s e i mona tery disappeared , to be r establ shed by

70 Y O R K AN D T H E W O L D S

- n to day . The Norman nave was perhaps o ly t e an modelled in the later periods , for Norm arches - t rifori are visible to day in the urn.

Besides the minster, Beverley possesses a truly ’ r noble parish church . St . Ma y s is an extremely beautiful example of the work of the end of the

fourteenth century, when Decorated Gothic was u passing into Perpendic lar . The richness and

freedom of sculpture of the earlier period, when the craftsmen allowed their fancy to rove without

ai . constr nt , is visible everywhere r nsa l m St e l. The co mon adjoining the railway

is permanently used as a military camp , and minor operations can frequently be seen from the train A in passing . It is a small ldershot for the Northern

Command . The York Golf Club has its course

at Strensall .

To Approa ch the N orthern Edges of the Wolds

to Fla x n. About three miles north of this station , o n a slight eminence on the borders of the Forest o f Galt res f , is Sheri f Hutton , with its shattered remains of a castle originally founded in the t welfth century . In time it became a property o f the Nevilles until the death of the King k rna er. Associated with the ruins is the tragic f ate of Edward , Earl of Warwick , eldest son of the D k u e of Clarence , who passed three years of his

long confinement , after he had reached his eighth y ear , within these massive walls . With him was t he t Princess Elizabe h , who became the wife of

H . enry VII , and thus united the white and the C A S T L E H O WA R D 71

ri red roses . Both p soners were removed to London a about the s me time , but the poor lad merely passed the next fourteen years of his life a prisoner

in the Tower, and then , after the callous fashion

of the time , was beheaded , a fate which was

considered hard even in the fifteenth century .

- fl win Kirkha m Ab b ey . On the banks of the swift o g

- Derwent , where it passes through a steep Sided dr a re va lley aped in picturesque foliage , the ruins al of Kirkham Priory , founded by W ter Espec for

Austin Canons in the early part of , the twelfth al century . Of the actu monastic buildings , and of

the church itself, the remains are very slight r a Norman door, a Decorated lavato y , an Early

English window , are the chief features of the great

monastic house which has passed away . There

remains , however, the singularly perfect and richly

- adorned gate house , whereon are ten shields bearing

the arms of various great families of the north . o a rd Ca stle H w . The imposing seat of the Earls

of Carlisle is about three miles north of the station .

It was designed by Vanbrugh , and is in the

. al Corinthian Renaissance style Horace W pole , n 1 2 writi g in 77 , referred to the castle as one of the

finest places in Yorkshire , and added that it was

possible to see here at one view a palace ,

a town , a fortified city, temples in high places , woods , each worthy of being a metropolis of the

Druids the noblest lawn in the world , fenced by half the horizon . Permission is given under cert ain conditions to see the interior of the house , where works by Vandyck , Rubens , Lely , F 72 Y O R K AN D T H E W O L D S

Reynolds , Tintoretto, and many other great masters are to be seen . M a lton - . This old fashioned town has an attractive position at the head of the gorge of in the Derwent , somewhat spoiled by a straggl g new quarter . Of the castle nothing can now be seen , and the two churches of Old and New C Malton have been much rebuilt . The hurch of

TH E N ORMAN FON T I N NORT H G RIM STO N CH URCH Th e s ubject of t h e s culp t ure is t h e L a st Supp er

Old Malton is a ll that remains of the Gilbertian

Priory , founded in the twelfth century, soon after the establishment of the Order of St . Gilbert of m rin ham Se p g . From here roads lead to Scarborough and to

Driflield . , with a railway following each of them The first traverses the southern margin of the

Vale of Pickering , and is a convenient means of reaching the villages of Rillington , Knapton , s Sherb um r ce West He lerton and , f om when

CHAPTER V

FROM YORK THROUGH THE FOREST OF GAL TRES TO THE VALE OF PIC KERING

HE W N j ourneying north from York , I wonder how many realise that the level landscapes of pas ture and arable land were right through the Middle

Ages , and certainly as late as the sixteenth century , included in the ancient Forest of Galt res . There appears little doubt that at one time the forest land reached almost to the walls of York , and the area covered probably extended from the

Ouse on the west towards , but not as far as , a Howa rdia n ll the Derwent on the e st . The Hi s probably formed the northern limit , and with little doubt it continued an uncultivated waste for such

a long period on account of its undrained condition . — The villages of Marton- in- the Forest and Sutton in- - the Forest , about ten miles north of York , proclaim very definitely the extent of the forest

i - in- - in that d rection, while Stockton the Forest ,

- i about four miles north west , gives another ind ca

tion . No doubt in winter the whole area was waterlogged and miry , and for freebooters a fairly safe place of retreat . It is notable that n Leland , who wrote duri g the reign of Henry : ca ullid VIII . , says There is a Place in York 74 T H E F O R E S T O F GAL T R ES 75

a ssinid David Haul , g as a Place of Punisch Gal res ment for Offenders in t . Writers in the fifteenth century give one the impression that th eiforest was sparsely grown with trees and was exceedingly wet and soft under foot . Whether travellers were inclined to miss their way when j ourneying towards York or not , I do not know . If did they so frequently, it would appear that the roads passing through it must have been few and ill- t in a desperately kept state , for here is the tradition mentioned by Drake, the historian of

York , of a light being kept burning in the tower of the church of All Saints , Pavement , to serve as a beacon to those coming towards the city from the boggy waste which lay so near the very walls . Beningb rough station is a short two miles from the village of Skelton, notable for its church a little gem of the Early English period—which stands to- day al most untouched since it was built

' r in the first half of the thirteenth centu y . The very fine south door is most probably slightly la t e ha n n t the rest of the buildi g, but otherwise one looks upon a village church , complete with its font , as it was erected nearly seven centuries from our own times . In a county so full of early churches it is obviously impossible to describe more than a small percentage when writing a book of very modest dimensions, but to omit to mention those l of Ske ton, Birkin (near Knottingley) , and Adel , — near Leeds the last two almost untouched Norman—would be to ignore three of the most complete and perfect in the county . 76 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G — Tollerton is about five miles from Sutton- in the

al . Forest, ready mentioned Here came Laurence 1 8 Sterne as vicar of the parish in 73 , and his residence at the Vicarage continued until the 1 6 0 summer of 7 , when he removed to Coxwold, a few miles to the north . The first twenty- six Chapters of Tristra m Sha nd 26 1 y were completed here on March , 759, and in them are portrayed the characters of York and the locality well known to the laughter- loving author, who describes himself as Parson Yorick , and Dr . John Burton, the chief accoucheur of

York, as Dr . Slop . Structurally, the church is not interesting . If one wishes to visit Sterne ’s other village church it is only necessary to walk two miles (as he did to preach every Sunday) through the fields l to Stillington , where a Perpendicu ar building possessing an early font can be seen . Those independent of the railway who are enthusiastic enough to follow Sterne ’ s movements further can go northward by a rambling country lane to Cox

a . wold, distance of about eight miles (see p

Should the wanderer prefer, however, to leave this until another day, he can find a place of much interest if he traverses about two and a hal f miles 1 8 to Crayke . Until 44 this was a detached frag ment of the county of Durham , and to find the origin of such a geographical curiosity it is neces sary to go far back in the annals of England . I t appears that Crayke and a radius of three miles

6 8 . round it were, about 5, given to St Cuthbert

78 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G decency required that the body should be enclosed al during the funer ceremony . The Arabs in North ffi t ime Africa bury without co ns at the present , merely using a wooden bed- like frame upon which the corpse is laid and covered with a brilliantly coloured cloth . I have frequently seen such funerals passing through the streets of Algerian towns , the outline of the body being visible through the covering . ’ Alne Ea sin wold s , from which g little line ” branches , is pronounced Orn , and is notable for a church possessing two interesting features i e. . a very fine circular font of Early Norman date and a south door into the nave which is one of the most remarkable Norman doorways in the is t north of England . This entrance adorned wi h two highly enriched orders of medallions rep re m a senting edi eval bestiaries, seven of which bear v their Latin inscriptions , gi ing a clue to the s all meaning in each ca e . Some of the med ions are restorations, others have worn away . In various parts of England there are to be found relics of the very quaint custom , at one time common, of carrying a garland in front of the bier at the funeral of a maiden . One of these

- — garlands o f paper is preserved in this church in a niche on the north side of the chancel . It is interesting to find that the spelling of Alne has come down from the eleventh century unchanged, whereas the Domesday Book ’s rendering of Eas Ei ingwold is almost unrecognisable in sicewalt . Ra skel l f is near the vi lage of that name, which T H I R S K 79 is worth seeing on the way through the Howa rdia n

Hills it is propo sed to cross a little later . The interest in the place is confi ned to the church o i e tower, a construction of w od dat ng back p rhaps ri ll four centu es, and sti able to carry three old el th e b ls, one of them belonging to reign of

Elizabeth . The font is Norman . The Great North Road and the railway run parallel from Raskelf to Thirsk, passing through Thormanby and leaving Sessay and Thirkleby on right and left . i w Thirsk . Like many a Yorksh re market to n, Thirsk has its great central Open space surrounded i by rather pla n houses of red brick or stone, roofed with red tiles . It is impossible to call the place picturesque , for its splendid Perpendicular church Kirk a t e un is placed at the end of g , and it is thus , i fortunately , successful in keeping out of sight unt l off one is near it or a long way . The town is astride the great highway and benefits by the growing motor traffic which enlivens its cobbled square i early and late . In Norman t mes the great Chieftain of this part of Yorkshire was Roger de u l m l Mowbray, and here he b i t hi se f a castle ; rm fli t but having been in a ed con ct wi h Henry II . his for a few months, fortress was razed to the ground so thoroughly that nothing at all can be

- seen of it t o day . hi Helrnsle From T rsk eastwards the road to y, Pickering and Scarborough passes through interest l u t r ing and very beautifu co n y all the way . I do not t hink that I am exaggerating when I sta te 80 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

that this is one of the most attractive highways

in the great county . Without hesitation it goes ri straight for the dge of the Hambleton Hills , and with a deep zig—zag ascends them at Sutton

- 1 000 . Bank , nearly feet above sea level By the i $ d rect rout one passes through Scawton, one of three old villages (the other two are Cold Kirby dif and Old Byland) , each possessing ferent claims ’ to one s attention . In most village churches it is necessary to decide on the date of erection from the architectural l - detai , but at Scawton a twelfth century record of Byland Abbey gives the year of erection as 1 1 6 4 , and with this solid fact to work on one may al l gather much v uable information . The ittle u i i a b ilding is full of nterest ng det il , and its situa tion in a wooded hollow under the exposed rim of the hills is very attractive . The other two ai villag es are to the north of the m n road , and to reach them a byway must be taken from the

Hambleton Hotel . No doubt its exposed position and S l gave Cold Kirby its name , hou d the weather be chilly there is no need to linger there, for it were better to have a little time at Old Byland, where the situation is charming and its association with the founding of Byland Abbey is of great n interest (see p . The church is mai ly Norman a il t and lso its font , but earlier st l (nin h century) is the sundial on the eastern face of the tower . It “ ” s SUMARL ETHAN H C R ME FEC read US A L IT, and “ may be read The housecarl of Suma rlethimade u me . F rther east, at Kirkdale and at Edston,

82 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

picturesque legend as to any historical building, and here one is reluctant to rob the place of the . old story of the founding of the monastery by

‘ al W ter Espec, the Norman Lord of Helmsley, l and yet it must be done . The story te ls of the ’ loss of Esp ec s only son t hrough a fall from his horse , and how the childless father determined to perpetuate the youth ’s memory by the found ing of three monasteries . If this had been the case it is hardly possible that contemporary docu ments could make no reference to a subj ect of so much interest and importance, and yet this omission not only occurs in the charter of found a i ’ tion, but also in Alred the th rd abbot s account l of the Batt e of the Standard, in which Espec is

described as being tall and large, with black

hair, a great beard, and a voice like a trumpet . The first Cistercian abbey established in

England was Waverley in Surrey, and the first

in Yorkshire was Rievaulx , while from it was

sent , by the Alred j ust mentioned , the group which established at Melrose the first Cistercian

house in Scotland . The great bearded Lord of l r He msley was advised by Archbishop Thu stan ,

who had received the monks sent by St . Bernard l from Clairvaux , to give the colony land at Rievau x

(pronounced Rivers , but derived from the Norman l 1 1 1 French for Rye Va es) , and there in 3 , in a

place described as a vast and horrible solitude , but to the modern eye one of the fairest wood

land settings imaginable , the religious men set to work to produce a fresh nucleus for their

84 F R O M Y O R K T o P I C K E R I N G

- l hard won cu tivation , and rugged moor ends on the exposed purple- brown heights of the Cleve ll land Hi s . At Chop Gate , three miles from the highest point , there is an inn from which a number of quite interesting expeditions on foot may be al taken, including a ramble ong the whole water of shed the North Yorkshire moors over Bransdale, Yest erd ale al , Glaisd e and Egton moors, dropping down for the night at either Glaisdale or Goath land . While in this part of the country no one ’ should fail to read Canon Atkinson s well- known Fort Yea rs in a M oorla nd P a rish book, y it opens one ’ s eyes to many a feature of the simple life of these unsophisticated dales which might otherwise be missed . Helmsle y, the pleasant little town about three l lx mi es from Rievau Abbey, is in many ways the ideal centre from which to make the exploration al of the western extremity of the V e of Pickering, Howa rdia n l the Hambleton and Hi ls , and the C dales to the north and west . The hief interest

of the place centres in the ruins of the castle, and although they are but fragments of its complete state when dismantled by Parliamentary order in 1 6 44, they are not without picturesque features , for the perfect side of the keep (twelfth to thirteenth century) is quite imposing and the range of six t eenth- century domestic buildings on the south side

is fairly complete . The earthworks surrounding the ruins are a p p a rently of a date anterior to the earliest build

- ing whose remains survive to day . Much careful H E L M S L E Y C A S T L E 85 excavation would be required to make any state ment as to their age , and until such work has been carried out it is safer to avoid any guessing ; but l the position is strategical y of importance, and it is fairly safe to presume that it was occupied long before the Conquest . Domesday gives the name Elrnesla c u as , and by that name pres mably it n the was k own to Earl of Moreton , who received l it from Wil iam I . Early in the next century the al feud lord bore the name of Espec, but this name ’ disappeared when Walter Esp ec s sister Adeline

i r - married Peter de Roos . It was the r g eat grand son Robert who was of suffi cient importance to be among the twenty- five barons selected for the safeguarding of the provisions of Magna Charta . He was known as Fursan and the castle he built at Helmsley was called Castle Fursan . The R 1 8 family of OOS continued to flourish until 50 . A sister of the last De Roos took the estate to am ri the Manners f ily, having mar ed Sir Robert n Man ers of Etal , whose descendant it was who 1 2 became Earl of Rutland in 5 5, and the only daughter of the sixth earl married the first Duke of Buckingham and was widowed by Felton ’ s l dagger . During the Civi War Helmsley came to 1 6 Fairfax , who had besieged it in 44 after the battle of Marston Moor, and was wounded in the shoulder by a ball from a musket before the garrison surrendered and marched out with l al honourable terms . Whi e the Commonwe th ll endured George Vi iers , the second duke , had n Res t ora bee abroad , but on his return after the 86 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

tion his estate of Helmsley was given back to

him . After the death of the second duke at Kirby Moorside in 1 6 87 Helmsley was

purchased by Sir Charles Duncombe , Secretary

to the Treasury in the reign of James II . , for the sum of and it was his nephew who was responsible for the building of Duncombe

House . Pope wrote satirical lines on the lapse of the famous property from ducal hands to those of a scrivener —there were new- rich as far

back as and further than the seventeenth century . 1 86 Helmsley church is a new construction of 9, but it retains its so uth doorway and the chancel ar — — ch both Norman o f the old building . There is also an interesting brass which is associated

with the ROOS or Manners family . The arms are

those of Manners . If instead of going by road to Helmsley one

keeps to the railway , the first station from the j unction at Pilmoor, where it is advisable to break the journey, is oxwold l C . The village is rea ly picturesque ; its church is prettily placed , its inn looks bright and inviting , and there is an old almshouse , while a hoary elm in the midst of the broad thoroughfare adds the last touch required to give the place a kindly character . It was to Coxwold that Sterne came from Sutton- in- the- Forest as C vicar, and his harming old house still stands 1 6 0 much as it was in his time . Here from 7 until his death he lived a cheerful bachelor life com p leting Tristra m Sha ndy (Shandy crazy) and

88 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

Fa uconb er i the title of Lord g , and the fam ly has lived at Newburgh Priory (adjoining the village) ever since the suppression of the monastery by

Henry VIII . The name of the monastery is familiar to all students of English history on C account of the hronicle of William of Newburgh , a painstaking canon of the priory who compiled his valuable contribution to history during the

twelfth century . The tomb of Thomas Earl Fa uconb erg is of exceptional interest on account his a of m rriage with Mary, the daughter of Oliver l Cromwe l . It was she who is credited with having obtained the headless body of her father after that disgusting enterprise of the Restoration which ’ t h disin errnent consisted in e . t of the Protector s

remains , the placing of the head on a pole at

Westminster, and the hanging of the corpse at

Tyb um gallows . In the present house in New burgh Park there is a curious tomb or vault on

the first floor over the entrance porch which , according to an old inscription it bears and the

- tradition in the family, is the final resting place ’ of Cromwell s decapitated remains . There is no

other explanation for this strangely placed tomb , and no contradictory statement appears to have

been made . l a The late Sir George Wombwe l , B rt of New in burgh , took part the charge of the Light

Brigade at Balaclava , was captured , but effected his escape by running forward and seizing a passing trooper of the r1 th Hussars who was l ga loping by .

90 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

From Coxwold village a pleasant walk of one and a half miles brings one to the curiously pic t ures ue q fragment of Byland Abbey, backed by the steep woodlands clothing this extremity of the

Hambletons . The site upon which the ruins stand 1 21 was given to the nation in 9 , and no doubt w the excavation , which is long overdue , ill in ar course of time be c ried out . Since the Dis solution the work of destruction at Byland has been terribly thorough , but the west end of the great Cistercian abbey church still presents a ai f rly complete appearance , and the eye can easily complete the circle of the great window in the gable . Otherwise the ruins require much patient study if the visitor is to find them interesting , and to the casual and uninformed ' I can imagine that the fragmentary walls would soon seem Of di unsatisfying . The style the buil ng was prob al n ably Transition Norma throughout , and was no doubt a very important and quite m a gnifi cent example of the dawn of the Gothic style in England . If the ruins of this Cistercian house are frag

mentary , the account of its early vicissitudes is ,

on the contrary , singularly complete . The third hi abbot , whose name was P lip , wrote down the i “ whole eventful story , beginning w th the departure 1 1 al from Furness Abbey , in 34, of Abbot Ger d

and a dozen monks . They settled at Calder, a spot in Cumberland too close to the border to be

pleasant , and alarmed by the danger from raiding

Scots , the colony decided to return to Furness .

92 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

fragment remaining is the ruined west end , with its fin er- i pathetic g like turret po nting to the sky . The beautiful valley where Byland stands echoed to the sounds of battle on an autumn day ’

1 22 I I . s in 3 , when Edward army, in full retreat n from Scotla d, with the Scots harassing the wearied Englishmen as they marched southwards , was obliged to come we stand . The site of the struggle may be on the high ground where the ’ m um na e Scots Corner survives, but if there is certainty a bout the position of the conflict there is none as to the result , for the English army was completely defeated . Alan Earl of Richmond was taken prisoner . Edward was , according to one al i account , actu ly d ning with the abbot when the news of the disaster reached him , and he had only time to fling himself into the saddle and spur his horse southwards when the Scots came swarming down on the abbey . They found that the royal baggage had been left behind in the haste of . ’ departure , and with it were taken the king s j ewels lu and treasure . Although the monastery was p n dered, its structure was not seriously damaged . l al Amp eforth. The village is strung out ong the road from Wass , and is on the slope of the southern most spur of the Hambletons . It would not call for attention were it not for a monument in the

- I church of quite exceptional interest . t is an effi gy of someone of consequence of the time of 1 —2 Edward II . ( 307 7) who may very possibly have fallen during the fight with the Scots which took place in the immediate neighbourhood in ' h t i m P o och o Co. L a. FO UNTAIN S ABBEY

The Chap el of the N ine A lt a rs

94 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

al head , hands and feet one appearing through an floria t ed di incised cross of an otherwise or nary type . Although the exterior of Gilling Castle is some ” what plain and gaunt, its Great Chamber is one of the most beautiful Elizabethan rooms to n be found in the county . It has a u ique feature in its painted frieze , which runs round the whole of the walls above the panelling . At regular al intervals are placed form trees , one for each an d wapentake of Yorkshire, from the branches are suspended no less than 450 shields representing the armorial bearings of the families residing in the several divisions of the great county . This monumental piece of work is stated (I know not on what authority) to have been carried out by the four sisters of Sir William Fairfax . His arms are emblazoned in the centre of the noble fire h in place, w ile panels below are those acquired by the marriages of the four Sisters to Roos of I n m a nthor e Curwen g p , Vavasour of Hazlewood,

Wok in t on Bela s se . of g , and y of Newburgh The ictoria H istor o Yorkshire i s V y f , wh le giving the e particulars, makes no reference to the story of a the p inting of the frieze by the sisters , and yet at so late a date there ought to be little doubt

on the subj ect . That part of the cas tle in which the Great ” Chamber is situated has its lower portion , with r l walls eight feet in thickness, ve y little a tered since it was built in the fourteenth century by one

of the Eltons, who , from an early but uncertain

date in the Norman period , held the lands of Gil T H E G R E A T I CE AG E 95

- al ling . The bay Window with its beautiful her dic Dininckh off az glass by Bernard , a York gl ier

was added in Elizabethan times . Far away in the glacial epochs Gilling was situated at the western extremity of a great lake which occupied the present Vale of Pickering . The water was held up by the glaciers which blocked the valleys and the great sheet of ice - in along the coast l e . In summer when the ice and overflowed snow were melting, the water from the la ke t hrough the gap in the hills at Gilling or down the present course of the River Derwent . Possibly there was a period when the first overflow operated before it changed to the present course . The whole of the scenery east of Gilling becomes more interesting if the great fact of the Ice Ages is al remembered , and how the natur drainage to wards the sea was upset by the formation of

al - ri a glaci boulder clay dge near the coast , with the result that the Derwent was turned back — towards the Val e of York the course it follows t o - day . Kirb M oorside y . I can imagine the uninformed wayfarer wal king up the rough old street of Kirby r Moorside, noting perhaps its width, the sturdy g ey ri houses with their b ght red roofs on either hand , the stone tolbooth and one or two inns , and how, i as he cl mbs , an extensive view over the Vale of is l Pickering d closes itse f, but I do not think that he would bubble over with enthusiasm about it his to friends on his return . And this is j ust how Yorkshire will Cheat one of its good things 96 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G unless trouble is taken to dig into the rich soil of its history . Who would guess that the gabled seventeenth century house on the west side of the street was the scene of the death of the notorious second

TH E H OUS E AT KI RB Y M OOR S I D E Wh ere t h e second Duke of Buckingha m di ed

i Duke of Buckingham , one of the br ghtest stars $ Ill- al of the p rofliga t e court of Charles II . he th was no doubt one of the main causes of the duke ’s 1 6 8 retirement to Helmsley Castle . In 6 he is described as worn to a thread through his life il of unbridled vice, but that he st l enj oyed the

98 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

al $ s vation However, it was known a century ago that if one wished to see a copy of it (and ignore the aforesaid peril) this could be done by asking “ al one Tom C e a cobbler living in Eastgate , ” Pickering . Of the two castles Kirby Moorside boasted in medie va l times so little remains that only a very keen student of the fortresses of the period will trouble to explore the sites . Instead , therefore , of this minor interest it is more profitable to turn one ’ s steps westward and in a short two miles al find oneself at the quaint little church of Kirkd e, charmingly situated at the foot of the leafy Hodge

Beck . Like the Mole in Surrey and other less known streams, the beck at this point finds its i way in crevices in the limestone, and th s part of its course is dry, except when the waters col lect ed in the recesses of remote Bransdale come down in force . Kirkdale Church is unique in possessing the longest inscription of the Anglo—Saxon period h s di which a yet been discovered , and the buil ng itself is one of the Northumbrian type of Saxon C hurches, of very great interest to those who find the early development of English architecture an attractive study . The thrill for such enthusiasts is to be found in the facts disclosed by the words al to be read on the sundi over the south doorway . In modern English the rendering is :

’ r r m nst er 0 1 111 t h e s o n o f a m a o t St . e o s i , G l , b ugh G g y w en it w a s a ll ro en a nd a en a nd a se it t o b e h b k f ll , c u d r m h un fo r C ri s t a nd St re or m a d e a new f o t e gro d h . G g y H I S T O R I C K I R K D A L E 99

in t h e a s o f Kin E wa r a nd in t h e a s o f Ea r d y g d d , d y l To st i a nd H a w a rt h wro me a nd Bra n t h e Prio r , ught d o r r e $ p esbyt rs$. Fortunately history throws a good deal of light on those who are mentioned in the inscription . Domesday gives this Gamal as the lord of Kirby n Moorside before the Conquest , and it is know

t T . hat his murder by osti , brother of Harold II ,

o n AT n a u . SAX ON S ora . K

M - ~ ( F 4 M b) H r $. Ra d d y A llo w. F . S A )

one of the numerous crimes for which Tosti was outlawed in 1 06 5. As he did not enj oy the 1 0 t i earldom until 55, the date of the church wi h n that decade is clearly established and the tiny building becomes a thousand times more interest ing than it might have been had not the sundial e m be n discovered . At Edstone (about three iles by road so uth from Kirby Moorside) there is u l another s ndia of very probably the same date, di l but something sturbed the scu ptor at his work , 1 0 0 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G for he breaks off with an incomplete word after “ L ot h n oht e stating that a me wr . The fact that the inscription was never finished seems to indicate a time of disturbance and confusion , and if L otha n were working in 1 066 the probable cause can be imagined . Possibly he dropped hammer and chisel in order to use sword and ulford bow, and fell in battle , either at F , where

Edwin and Morcar were defeated, or at Stamford ’ Bridge, the scene of Harold s victory over his H a ralld Ha rdra d a brother, where both Tosti and , r King of Norway, were killed . This is the pu est conj ecture, but it is perhaps legitimate and a possible explanation . Only the three walls of the nave of Kirkdale Church belong to the shadowy days before the Conquest ; the chancel porch and tower are modern , but the treble bell quite possibly 1 00 dates back to 3 , and the other, cast at York , r is only a centu y or more later . The discovery in the last century of the now famous Kirkdale Cave threw a good deal of new light upon this

- ri part of Yorkshire in the inter glacial pe ods . In the recesses of the cave were found the bones and teeth of many extinct animals possibly brought there by the hye nas which appear to have occupied it .

To those who enj oy long rambles afoot , Kirby Moorside and Helmsley are good centres from which to sally forth well shod and provided with map C and sandwiches . The hoice of routes northwards into the recesses of the moorland solitudes is so

1 0 2 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

or Rosedale for an early ramble , or whether it may be that one of the smaller valleys receives atten tion first , it is well to remember that almost within living memory the dwellers in these byways and deep hollows beneath the moorland heights were steeped in superstitions of an exceedingly primitive character . No doubt the origins of many of these

STAPE C R o s s On t h e hea t hery m oor a bo v e N ewt o n D a le

fantastic ideas date back to very remote times . They may have been brought to Yorkshire from

Norway, Denmark , or the mouths of the German

ri . vers , or are perchance of indigenous growth In quite early times legends of dragons and horrid ” monsters called worms were not uncommon, but these died out , and in the eighteenth century and even later their places were taken by hobs, nearly every dale possessing at least one . These H O B S AN D W I T C H E S 1 0 3 curious beliefs in the existence of hob -men were so well established that a list of them was made in al a rnd ale 1 823 by one George C vert . There was F al al Hob of High Farnd e, Hodge Hob of Bransd e , the Hob of Chop Gate , Cross Hob of Lastingham , El hi and many others . The stories of p , the hob a rndale associated with Low F , are numerous and diverting, but I understand that the last of those who knew them by tradition has long been dead . El hi p was one of the hobs who used white magic , and so familiar at one time was his figure to the inhabitants of the dale that someone in 1 6 99 wrote quaint verses about him in which appear the lines : El hilit t e a p l ch p , Th o fi h e w a r so sm a ll ’ W a r b ig wideed s o ki ndnes s rin t iv him a n a n D k y a ll .

If a girl or a youth were in trouble or love affairs e were in need of sup rnatural aid , a visit would be s i paid to He ter Mudd , the witch of Rosedale . Th s woman was known to use the evil eye and also w could appear as a cat . It as well to be home

from Cropton before darkness overtook one , for “ at times wide asunder ” a man might be seen rushing fra those happening to cross his road t m - wi h fla ing mouth and having empty eye sockets, a truly terrible apparition to come across of a ’ sudden . Altogether it was wiser to take one s

evening walks towards Brown Howe where , stand in o l t g by a b u der, here was to be seen of a sum ’ mer s eve a maiden there seated a - combing out H 1 0 4 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

her jet black tresses so as to hide her bare breast am and shoulders , she looking to be much sh ed

to there do her toilet . Then there is the story

of Sarkless Kitty , but as the very mention

of her name be now a thing forbid , I will leave the curious to look up the strange story of this exceedingly lovely girl and journey on to

Sinnington. By the pleasant green flows the little river Seven which has found its way from

the solitudes of Rosedale , having there drunk

1 00 - deeply of the gills 4 feet above sea level . Near

its bank stands a tall maypole , marking the spot which has been the centre of village gaiety for

centuries past . Early in the eighteenth century there was an attempt by the broad brims (as they were dubbed) to stop the May- day dancing

on the green , but some of the Sinnington Bucks joined hands in a long chain and succeeded in sweeping away this puritanical interference with i ai bucol c g ety .

In addition to the j oys of maypole dancing , Sinnington has for long been associated with

- s a very old established pack of hound , the Bils dale alone claiming to be older . It is generally accepted that the Sinnington country has been hunted ever since the time of the second Duke n of Bucki gham , who may have established the

first pack of hounds in this part of the county . After the duke ’s death the Duncombes main t ained the pack . The road to Lastingham goes westward for over i a m le, and before it turns in the required direction

1 0 6 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G here in 6 64 and died of the plague which was pre l th e vai ing at the time , and was buried in church yard , but later, when a stone church was built , his body was laid within it . What happened to that tomb , and , indeed , to the first monastery , is not on record , but there can be very little doubt that it was destroyed in the Danish invasions and was left in ruins during nearly two centuries . In 1 078 Stephen of Whitby brought monks to the C ruins and rebuilt the monastery , and the hurch they erected is substantially the remarkable little building still to be seen . It is quite possible that some portions of the original stone structure left in $ ruins by the Danes may be incorporated in the existing building , and , if so , Lastingham is a valuable link with the very early days of English history , when monasticism at its best , and strongly impressed with the influences radiating from the capital of the Eastern Roman empire , was bringing its civilising influences to bear upon a $ primitive warring people . In the chance , the four great piers of the nave and the wonderfully perfect little crypt are of pure Norman architecture of

the eleventh century . ’ Corre io s The copy of gg picture , Christ in the ” C Garden of Gethsemane , in the apse of the hurch ,

R . A. was painted by John Jackson , , who was the son of ' a Lastingham tailor and was born in the 1 i village in 778. His determ nation to paint pictures was not to be checked by the want of good materials , for when he wi—shed to make his first copy of a portrait in oils a Reynolds lent R . A . 1 0 J O H N J A C K S O N , 7 — him by Sir George Beaumont he managed to obtain what he needed from the village pa inter and t t a al glazier , and wi h hese co rse materi s produced

TH E N O RM A N C RYPT O F LASTI N G H A M C H UR C H a result so admirable t hat he was provided with 0 him £5 a year to enable to work as a student . o t ll It was ab ut his time , when Jackson was sti unknown to fame , that one of the most remarkable tales b egan to circulate in the neighbourhood as 1 0 8 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

- in to the strange behaviour of Mr . Carter, curate

charge of Lastingham . It was stated that his wife had started a public- house in the crypt of C the hurch , and that on Sunday afternoons the parson amused the people by playing his fiddle while the young folk danced $ It was at the next visitation by the archdeacon , after the story had reached his ears, that Mr . Carter explained the

S . ai whole ituation I have , he s d , a wife and 20 thirteen children , and with a stipend of £ per annum , increased only by a few surplice fees, I will not impose upon your understanding by attempting to advance any argument to Show the impossibility of us all being supported from ai my church preferment . He went on to expl n how he was able to obtain fish in abundance in the neighbouring stream and how his neighbours requited such gifts with generosity, and added,

- This is not all ; my wife keeps a public house, and as my parish is so wide that some of my parishioners have to come from ten to fifteen miles all re to church , you will readily ow that some freshment before they return must occasional ly b e necessary Now, sir, I make no doubt but you are well assured that the most general t o ick s - p in conversation at public houses, are i Politicks and Relig on, with which , God knows , ninety- nine out of one hundred of those who participate in the general clamour are totally ‘ unacquainted . To divert their attention to these foibles over their cups , I take down my violin and play them a few tunes, which gives me

1 1 0 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

which may have been used for cattle , and further to t he east are two roughly square camps sharing one side in common . The Roman road passed through the first - mentioned camp from west to ak east, and from indications mentioned by Dr e 1 6 in 73 , there seems no doubt that the road was taken down the steep descent immediately to the north , and from thence, in a fairly direct

hi . fas on , to Dunsley Bay, north of Whitby I have St a e seen the roadway exposed to view near p , and those who wish to undertake a little arche ological exploration can do so without difficulty if they go northwards through the heather from that h hamlet towards Wheeldale . W ether caught in the net of such an enterprise or not , there are glorious rambles to be had over the moo rland country with its wide horizons of sober brown i or gay purple, wh ch stretch away from the Cawthorne Camps in every direction except to the south . I t is possible to keep along the edge of the l h wonderfu gorge of Newton Dale , whose ca on

like form is a perpetual surprise , even to those

who have visited it fairly often . It is described

more fully in the next chapt er and, as I am at present keeping to the ‘ northern confines of the al V e of Pickering, I turn southwards to the village where the old village of Middleton boasts

a very early church tower, the lower portion of

- which appears to be of pre Norman work . Saxon crosses have been incorporated in the walls after i the manner common in the d strict , as though the M I DD LETO N CH U RCH Th e lower p o rt io n o f t h e t o wer is of v ery ea rly N orma n work 1 1 2 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

builders had felt complete indifference to these

fine memorials of a few gene rations earlier . Middleton and a few of the old villages near by still possess some of the very early type of cottages built with massive forks of oak to support a

- steeply pitched roof . These forks invariably

rested on the ground , and of necessity showed i prominently with n . The plan of the cottages is al most invariable , consisting of one large living O room with a bedroom pening from it, and a sep rated by a passage passing right through ,

all - there are two sm store or work rooms . Over ai head in the roof, reached by a cupboard st rcase, l - are two bedrooms genera ly low and ill lighted,

- having only a small window in each gable end . l Midd eton is only a mile from Pickering, the metropolis of this part of the county and the

centre for movements by road and rail, as a glance l at the map will show . It is fu ly dealt with in

Chapter VI .

rnton- l - Da l al Tho e e. Continuing eastward ong the edge of the val e the first village is named after

the long and narrow dal e at whose outlet it stands . In summer and autumn this is an exceedingly

attractive spot , and the village nestling under the shade of great trees and musical with the bright waters of Dalby Beck ranks among the prettiest i i in Yorksh re . There is st ll a good deal of thatch a on the roofs of the older cott ges, and the early fork method of construction is well rep re

i n . sented, but d sappeari g gradually At the foot of the old stone cross (its age is uncertain)

1 1 4 F R O M Y O R K T o P I C K E R I N G which their villages looked towards the rounded contours of the chalk wolds to the south . In remote ages the Neolithic and Bronze Age p op ula tion appear to have had quite other ideas , for the indications of their occupation of the high wind- swept moorland have been discovered every where . It is scarcely possible , however, that the warm and sheltered slopes were not utilised for culti l vation in sma l patches , even in those early ages , but succeeding populations have wiped out any such traces and the long string of villages—there — are a dozen in about fifteen miles is essentially

’ ever set tlement l Saxon , nearly y having the termina of ton . As Wilton makes no claim to be interesting there is no reason to turn in that direction , and C after looking at the hurch of Allerston , which makes the village picturesque , with its Per endicula r p tower, there is nothing to detain - one . Ebberston , the next village , lives estranged

from its church , which has (with unchristian snobbery) chosen a position of al oofness adj oining the hall . Its architecture is not without interest , having a Norman south door and other early

- u features , including the font . The blocked p arch in the south wall requires explanation .

Above these villages , two miles distant , there are to be seen on the moors the heather- grown mounds a m ri and trenches known as the Sc dge Dykes .

They are a formidable relic of prehistoric times , running for some miles across the moor between l Troutsdale and Allerston . Canon Greenwe l con P R E H I S T O R I C WA R F A R E 1 1 5 sid ered the dykes as part of a great system of fortification , apparently intended to protect from an invading body advancing from the east . The fact that in no part of England have there been discovered more stone arrow- heads and other implements than in the neighbourhood of these

TH E A O F G AL S H L FA T P RLOU R LOW IL RM , BROMP O N H ere M ary H ut chins o n was li vi ng when h er m a rria ge wit h W o rdswo rt h t oo k p la ce in 1 80 2 entrenchments leads one to believe that they were th e scene of tribal warfare throughout a very long period . To appreciate to the full the story of these moorland heights the wayfarer should have read ’ Ten Yea rs Di in s n Ea rl gg g , by Thomas Batema ; or y M a n i n Brita in . , by Professor W . Boyd Dawkins Sa wdon is the station adjoining Brompton , and 1 1 6 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G has been given its name from the hamlet at the head of Sawdon Dale , two longish miles to the north , no doubt to avoid confusion with the other n Bromp t o s in the county . It was in Brompton church that William Words th 1 802 worth was married on the 4 October, , to Mary Hutchinson , his perfect woman , nobly ” planned , whom he had known since his school days at Penrith . The signatures of the poet and his wife can be seen in the parish register . Half way to the adjoining village of Ruston is Gallows

arm . lainl Hill F , p y visible from the main road , where Mary Hutchinson kept house for her brother Thomas until her marriage . The Village of Brompton is picturesque and i sleepy , being seldom disturbed by anyth ng besides the passing of a train or infrequent motor f i tra fic , and possess ng no ruins of a castle or fortified house , one scarcely expects to find it mentioned in any document save in regard to its church . The records , however , of the Duchy of

Lancaster during the reign of Henry VII . tell of al an attempted ambush by Sir R ph Evers , who was accused of having laid in wait with his men to murder Sir Roger Hastings and his wife on their way to Scarborough . Sir Roger, fearing an attack , had sent on some of his men who dis covered the ambushed party . Sir Ralph , on finding that they were only servants , was charged with Ka t ffes having said to them , Ye false burson y y , I shall lerne you curtesy and to knowe a gentil b ow man , and as he set his arrow in his , he said ,

1 1 8 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

And your Master were here I wolde stoppe hym W they wey . The result of the trial at estminster Palace Showed up Sir Roger Hastings as the troublesome person , and the case went against him , for the evidence proved that this knight and his servants were daily goyng and rydyng through the country more like men of warr then men of peas , and that they terrified the people by riding into the towns and markets with bows i bent and arrows in the r hands . Wykeha m is a station between the village of

- that name and Hutton Buscel . The first men t ioned (pronounced with a long y is interesting in connection with the Cistercian nunnery founded 1 1 Pa a nus about 53 by g de Wykeham . In the r middle of last century , the pe iod when no one l seemed to trouble what became of an old bui ding , England being busy expanding her world com merce and seemingly opaque to all other con siderations , the church of this little monastery was taken down . There is now so little to be seen that the existence of the nunnery would soon be forgotten but for the name of Lord Downe ’s

W . S house , which is called ykeham Abbey The ite is geologically of much interest , for the raised ground proj ecting into the flat alluvium of the vale is a mo—raine or delta of a river of one of the glacial ages the early form of the Derwent . It was the overflow of a lake filling the clales

radiating from Hackness . The only feature worthy of attention in Wyke ham village is the very unusual lych - gate of the F O R G E VA L L E Y 1 1 9

churchyard , which is the tower of either the old parish church or that of a chapel founded in 1 321 . i al Just to the north of the ra lway , and only h f a Buscel mile from Wykeham , is Hutton , an old village with ancient cottages of the primitive C fork type , and a hurch whose tower , Norman n l below and Early English above , is si gu arly picturesque in its setting among the trees of the pleasant churchyard mping down towards the vale .

F orge Va lley . The station at the foot of the picturesque and very heavily- wooded gorge from which it takes its name is much used during the summer by the residents of Scar borough and the great influx of visitors . The valley appears to have 1 obtained its name from a forge mentioned by Hinderwell in his History a nd Antiquities of Sca rb orou h g , and one is not able to associate it with a satanic smith or, indeed , anything that is not of recent origin . There is every reason to penetrate beyond the leafy gorge , for at only a distance of four miles i from the stat on , placed in an inner recess of the l va ley, is Hackness , whose story is linked with r 6 80 Hilda , the g eat Abbess of Whitby . In , the this year of her death , she founded a monastery in

- of singularly retired hollow of the moors . Its out the- way situation did not save it from discovery and pillage by the invading Danes . They destroyed re it in the ninth century , but when Whitby was established after the Norman Conquest , Hackness

A t o t h e t erm o r e is se it wa s in rea it l h ugh f g u d , l y a s ma o n r r i nw ll f u d y o ro orks . 1 20 F R O M Y O R K T O P I C K E R I N G

al so arose from its ruins , and the interesting church one finds Close to the hall dates in part

from that recovery . It is more than probable

that the Saxon stone in the chancel arch , and

fragments of a Saxon cross , belong to the first ri pe od . This cross is considered unique on account of its cryptic runes . Latin capitals and ordinary

runes appear with the cryptic ones . From Hackness there is an ample choice of routes . One can return to Scarborough by Climb ing out of the dale and dropping down to Scalby, where there is a station ° or there is the beautiful road called Lady Edith 5 Drive which skirts the wooded slopes and joins the Wh itby road just

- outside the great watering place . Westward goes o a track inviting one to expl re Troutsdale , to Climb up to the heather Close to the Sca mridge

Dykes , and descend upon Snainton with the wide View over the Vale of Pickering spread out before a d ven one during the last three miles . For the t urous there is a most exhilarating walk right up the main valley westward beyond the last farm . From thence one can climb up to Blakey Topping 800 (over feet) , and after seeing Malo Cross , procure tea at the Saltersga t e Inn before catching a train at Levisham station . A good plan is to put up for the night at one of the moorland inns and return by another route on the following day . It is unnecessary to Specify how one Should plan such ’ - a two days excursion , for anyone with the half inch coloured contour map of the district will be dif i able to select his route without f culty .

CHAPTER VI

CLEVELAND AN D THE NORTH YORKSHI RE MOOR S

A J OURNEY through the heart of the North York shire moors can be commenced at Whitby with C great advantages . There is the hoice of following the road along the Esk fairly closely as far as the ’ Beggar s Bridge at Glaisdale , or, if one prefers the i open moorland , there is the alternative of tak ng the high road from Whitby to Guisborough as far as Egton Low Moor , and then turning south ' l crosses t he wards to Egton itse f, where one river and so reaches the high moorland plateau where heather stretches away to the horizon in every direction . A third alternative is that of taking

- - the old grass grown coach road to York , across

Sleights and Goathland Moors , and so descending to Pickering . From this last route various alter natives offer themselves : that of turning down to Goathland Village from the highest part of Sleights n Moor, or of plunging i to Newton Dale from Sa lt ers a t e al g , and continuing ong the course of the

Dale to reach Pickering by way of Newton . leihts S g . The Esk is suitable for boating all the as - way from Whitby, p t the eighteenth century

ll . mi at Ruswarp , as far as Sleights The banks are w charmingly wooded , ith glimpses here and there of the moors on either side . 1 22 ’ T H E B E G G A R S B R I D G E 1 2 3

Grosmont must have been an extremely beautiful spot before the iron mines disturbed the natural contours of the valley j ust where it branches to the south towards Newton Dale . A small priory l in n was estab ished here Norman times by Joa na , Torneha m wife of Robert de , and those who wish to examine t he Site will be rewarded by finding indications of the position of the church . Follow ing the course of the Esk , the valley goes due west and becomes heavily wooded when it enters a Gl isdale , where , overshadowed by masses of

fine trees , is the beautiful single span of the Beggar ’s Bridge The signs Of weakness it has recently shown have caused al a rm to those who appreciate the charm of this sequestered spot . Firris The bridge was originally known as Bridge , P i from the name of the builder, Thomas irr s , al 1 1 ll whose initi s and the date 6 2 are sti Visible . Some time in the sixteenth century the previous ll bridge seems to have fa en , and this date records the reconstruction when some of the fourteenth — century coping stones were utilised . From Glaisdal e one can climb up on to the moorland above by a road leading down to Rose al dale Abbey and Kirby Moorside . There is so a fascinating road which climbs the side of Glaisdal e

Moor and drops down to Lealholm Bridge , where

- there is a conveniently placed station . Another road mounts steeply to the north and brings one m to the top of Danby Beacon , a bold e inence giving exhilarating views across the hea d of l a Eskdal e . In the vi l ge b eneath this height 1 24 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

was Canon Atkinson incumbent for many years , F ort and here he wrote his interesting volume , y Yea rs in a M oorla nd P a rish . The neighbourhood of Danby has yielded many prehistoric burial

urns , weapons and other obj ects .

As one ascends higher and higher, the strips of cultivation al ong the bottom of the valley shrink in width , the heather beginning to converge on either side , until , beyond Kildale , a bend to the south suddenly reveal s the level plain with the great shoulders of the Cleveland Hills rising f above it like cli fs from a green sea . On the highest point of Easby Moor stands a boldly placed

column , erected to the memory of Captain Cook , ll the explorer, who was born at Marton , a vi age near at hand in the plain . He served his apprentice

a t . ship Whitby , and it was a Mr Campion of that town who defrayed the expense of the monument . tt r b unction Ba e s y j . The railway running north passes close to a curiously formed peak , known as

Roseberry Topping , which , from some points of view , might almost be called the tusk of the

Cleveland Hills . There is an old couplet concerning the value of this isolated hill as a warning of bad weather . : I t appears in an early MS . as follows

h en R oseb err e To in e wea rs a a e W y p p g c p p , v a n a e L et Cle el d then bewa re a cl p p .

Guisb orough has come within reach of the iron mining industry of Cleveland , but its appearance

1 2 6 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S someness were not to be promoted, but were to receive punishment from the prior and sub prior . Guisborough church contains in its porch two of the stones which formed the great Bruce C cenotaph , erected in the priory hurch in Tudor times . It appears to have been removed to the parish church at the Dissolution and sometime in the eighteenth century it was broken up and the pieces scattered , one end being now back in

the priory at the foot of the north staircase turret . r The top is now pa t of the altar, and the base is also in the chancel . Perhaps the five remaining slabs of this most interesting tomb will one day be brought together again . The fame of the semi royal family of Bruce and the great part it played in the thirteenth century would seem to j ustify the hope that this may be done . Until then one can only j udge of the original state of the cenotaph from the engraving to be found in the first edition ’ o a stio of Dugd a le s M n c n.

In connection with the family of Chaloner, whose name has been associated with the town in since Tudor times , there is a story of much t erest concerning the origin of the al um industry

in Yorkshire . Travelling on the Continent during i al the reign of El zabeth , Mr . Thomas Ch oner l ’ visited Rome , and whi e there saw the Pope s

- t ha t it alum works . He was fired with the idea j would be very advanta geous to take advantage of the deposits of alum found in several localities

- in the north eastern corner of Yorkshire . To Ph ot och mm Co . L d . G UISBO ROUG H ABBEY

1 2 8 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

Ya rm is a quaint old town possessing one of

the oldest bridges in Yorkshire . In its original Skirla w form it was erected by Bishop of Durham , fli whose term of o ce ran from 1 388 to 1405. Since then the inevitable widening and alteration have C ar deprived the bridge of its Gothic h acter . Yarm church was rebuilt to a great extent in 1 0 as 73 . It was a period of m sive woodwork , and as a consequence the pews and pulpit recall the interiors of some of the churches in the City C of London . Of the Norman hurch there remains al a good de of the west end, and there are a few

carved stones of early date . Welb ury is the nearest station to the ruins of

Mount Grace Priory, a Carthusian house, founded 1 8 in 39 by Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey and Earl of Kent . He was executed two years later (he was then only twenty- three) for his part in the rebellion against Henry IV and the buildings being unfinished the monastery was

al . . most disintegrated Henry VI , however, gave the priory his aid by securing for it the lands with which it had been endowed , and it flourished thereafter to such an extent that its value when ’ dissolved in 1 535 was £323 . The founder s body was afterwards brought from Cirencester and buried at Mount Grace . Of the nine houses of the

Carthusian Order founded in England, Mount Grace is the only one left where one can see actual ai l rem ns , and for this reason a pi grimage to this beautiful sylvan spot close to the Cleveland Hill s should on no account be omitted . The plan of the M O U N T G R A C E P R I O R Y 1 2 9 buildings is curiously irregular and lacking in right rm - i angles , and owing to the he it l ke life of the monks allowing no communal life except in the services of the church , one finds no refectory or i dormitory , but nstead a series of cells , each in al its enclosure of garden , surrounding a rhomboid i Cloister . In order that food m ght be brought to l each cel without its occupant seeing the server , the hatches were constructed with a double turn n in the thick ess of the wall . These can be seen

- to day . Of the church , the nave and transepts are still standing , and there is a range of buildings , including the gateway , which was converted into 1 6 l a private house in 54 by Thomas Lasce les , whose initials as well as the alterations and additions he made can easily be recognised . Between Mount Grace Priory and Welbury is i t he East Harlsey, and it is worth wh le to mount l i hill and see, not on y the beautiful V ew of Black Hambleton (1 289 feet) to the south- east and the al range of the hills beyond, but so the monuments C r effi in ai t in the hu ch , one an gy ch n armour wi h uncovered head . Easily accessible from Welbury is the village of Rounton , where the church is Norman and has a very early and interesting font . la Osmotherley possesses , besides a vil g e cross, n al an u usu feature in the form of a stone table , whose purp ose is now forgotten . The church is aisleless and chiefly of interest on account of the form of its Decorated cha ncel arch which has the

- bases of its shafts about half way up the wall . 1 3 0 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

In this, as in such a very large number of the C hurches of Yorkshire , there are indications of u l the existence of a Norman b ilding . Cou d one

go back to the twelfth century, I do not doubt that in nearly every town and Village one would find a newly- built stone church possessing certain

enrichments of capital and moulding . The masons must have been busy all through that century replacing the Saxon buildings wrecked by the u i Danes, or reb ild ng on a larger and finer scale those which had been spared . N ortha llerton had administrative powers over cert ain manors (called collectively Northallerton S hire) at the time of the Conquest , and it is now the chief town of the North Riding . It consists o f a wide street extending along the great high way to the north , and as it possesses no picturesque ness it would hardly call for more than the barest description if it were not for its fine old church and the notable battle fought near by . The church shows its evolution from a Norman hi structure with great clearness . Of t s early build ing the nave and north aisle remain . The south ai sle and transepts are Early English , the tower is Perpendicular, while the chancel is a Georgian reconstruction . Northallerton was burnt by the Scots when Randolph and Douglas ravaged the 1 1 8 1 20 north of England between 3 and 3 , during the reign of that worthless sovereign Edward II . u If the church s ffered, the masonry must have escaped damage in the nave and transepts . 1 1 8 It was in 3 , only three years after the throne

1 3 2 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E MO O R S

are recorded as light . During the retreat the f invaders su fered heavily, and the Battle of the ll ai Standard, as it came to be ca ed, was f rly decisive . It is interesting to study the list of great barons who were present at the battle . One finds among them many of the names with which one becomes familiar in a peregrination of Yorkshire .

There were Bruce, Mowbray, Espec, Percy, Peverill Albemarle , Baliol, Lacy, and Stuteville, and among these leaders only Gilbert de Lacy is reported to have been killed . The site of battle is a little to the west of ‘the r i the Great No th Road, some three m les north al ll of the town . A farm c led Standard Hi is considered to be on, or quite near to, the spot where the standard was placed .

Goa thla nd is at the head of that strange cation through which the overflow of an ice—age lake found its way into the large lake of Pickering . It is a tiny Village scattered over a gentle slope at the foot of Wheeldale Beck , and is one of the most perfect spots for the rambler who wishes

to spend some time in the heart of the moors .

Here one can revel in the wide purple landscapes , and in the autumn watch the steep Slopes of Newton Dale turn to Venetian red where the bracken begins to feel the oncoming of winter .

Here , too , one can enj oy the results of the steady energy of the bee who collects that excellent variety of honey which only heather produces . H A W K S O F N E W T O N D A L E 1 3 3

om Newton Dale can be explored on foot , either e its floor, or by following moorland tracks abov th e e its precipitous sides . One of points wher Cliffs rise to their greatest heights is known a s

Killingnob le Scar . It was in this semicircular recess on the west side of the gorge that a breed of hawks was preserved with great care by the men

I N TH E D EEP C ANO N O F N EWTO N D ALE I of Goathland for the use of James . , whose love for hawking dated from his boyhood . These birds long survived the construction of the railway, but have now disappeared . On the same side of the valley, close to the foot of the Scar, is Newton al di l D e Well, whose water, accor ng to Hinderwe l

- had certain advantages in cold bathing, and were also useful for the strengthening of

the limbs of children . On Midsummer day a a f ir was held at the well , attracting large 1 3 4 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

numbers of country folk , who assembled to see the ceremonies performed which shoul d secure the e f f icacy of the waters . One of the first railways constructed in England p assed through Newton Dale on its way from

Pickering to Whitby . Steam was not employed a s motive force , the coaches being merely drawn by horses up the glen until the highest point was r off eached . There the team was taken and the v ehicles continued the journey, propelled by no o ther force than gravity . It is recorded that the run downhill was sometimes carried out at the l dangerous speed of twenty mi es an hour, and the driver would at times increase this to thirt y miles , so confident was he in his brakes . At the highest point of the gorge is Fen Bog where peat has accumulated to a great depth . di al Accor ng to Professor P . F . Kend l , who has bored through the vegetable deposit , the channel al across the watershed , in the glaci ages , might have been seventy- five feet below the present level . v s L e iha m. By a steep path ascending through a strip of wood the Village of Newton can be reached , but charming as is this collection of low cottages scattered along the e dge of a green , there is a l more romantic spot to the east , where two vi lages ,

Levisham and Lockton , face one another across a very deep branch valley containing the sturdy little church to which the people of Levisham were wont to descend before the chapel of ease was vi put in the llage . The latter contains a font of

F O U N D I N G O F P I C K E R I N G 1 3 5

—a great antiquity rudely sculptured tub , dis

- covered in a farm yard not many years ago . The i old church is st ll used to some extent , and its

interior is worth seeing , for it contains Norman

features and some interesting Saxon fragments . r a i O Picke ing. St nd ng at the southern pening of Newton Dale on a gentle slope rising from

the marshy levels of the vale , is the very ancient

town of Pickering . Such a position must have gained for it importance in earliest times , and the older historians of England seem to delight in giving curious stories of the founding of the place by traditional kings who flourished some two or ’ three centuries before Ce sar s first expedition to

Britain . Even Holinshed could not resist telling Viinius Peredurus a vague story of g and , who reine ointlie Brit a ine began to g j as kings of , 01 in the year of the world 37 , after the building of 8 Rome 4 5, and goes on to state that Pere durus builded the towne of Pik ering where his bodie was buried . Whether there was any settle ment on the spot during the Roman occupation is a subj ect open to discussion , for the route taken by the Roman road passes well to the west . Possibly the British village of Pickering existed , but was

- ignored by the road builders . Lake dwellings of extreme antiquity existed on the River Costa , about two miles from Pickering . They were excavated in 1 893 and led to the discovery of human bones of a very short race of people with N O prehensile toes . human skull was found a misfortune for anthropo logy which might be K 1 3 6 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

overcome if further excavations were made . Of the Saxon town there are no indications other than part of a cross ornamented with interlaced work ; it is only with the Norman period one comes to

firm historical ground , and discovers that Morcar, the great Mercian earl , used to hold the manor in the time of Edward the Confessor . At this time the Castle of Pickering probably assumed some thing of its present form if one excludes the southern bailey , for the present walls , if not

Norman , according to Mr . G . T . Clark , are unquestionably laid on Norman lines . No doubt the first Norman fortress and keep were of timber, and the first stone walls would date from the reign of Henry II . , to which period would belong the

- Norman doorway at the north west corner . As

- al the castle appears to day , it comprises an ov al of w ls studded with picturesque towers . The keep , probably dating from the time of Edward II . , has disappeared save for a few large fragments of masonry still adhering to the steep artificial mound . Two towers in excellent preservation and the entrance gateway are prominent fea tures of the wall of the outer bailey built in

the Edwardian period .

Pickering , having become a royal possession

in Norman times , received many visits from Nor

man and Plantagenet kings . The earliest actual reference to a royal visit is found in the Coucher

Book which mentions that Henry I . issued a

writ there . John came on one occasion and lost twenty shillings in playing backgammon with Lord

1 3 8 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S

l . i Sa isbury From this t me forward , details of the control of the forests of Pickering became richer year by year . The chronicle of Richard Hardyng e states that Richard II . was taken from L eds to

Pickering, from thence to Knaresborough , and

finally to Pontefract , where he was murdered . ’ The whole story, however, of Richard s end is S hrouded in mystery . From the reign of Elizabeth onwards Pickering f Castle su fered from all sorts of vandalism . Sir Cholmle di Richard y, when ad ng a gallery to his house at Roxby near by (since destroyed) , took ’ fourteen wain - loads of stone from the King s — i a din as . Hall bu l g within the c tle , now vanished i During the Civil War t mber, iron and lead were removed from the towers for putting Scarborough

Castle in a better state of defence , with the result that towers which were until then habitable became roofless ruins . Among the great number of interesting churches in the county, that of Pickering is unique on account of the very fine series of paintings on the 1 walls of the nave . The arcades are Norman of two dates , with a Perpendicular clerestory above . From the arms and plate armour of the knights shown in the scene depicting the murder of St . a i Thomas Becket , the date of the paint ngs can be placed between 1450 and 146 0 . They were covered with whitewash at so me subsequent

F o r a u es ri t io n a nd a series o f o t o ra f ll d c p p h g p hs, ’ s ee t he a ut o r s wo r o n P i erin The Evoluti on o a n h k ck g, f En lish Town ent 1 0 g . D , 9 5 . P I C K E R I N G C H U R C H 1 3 9

i period , and their existence had been qu te forgotten

when they were accidentally discovered in 1 853 . Such a distracting array of colour and curiously depicted scenes in the style of medi e val art were considered unsuitable for exposure to an early

Victorian congregation , and whitewash once more

obliterated them . It was not until some years later that they were again uncovered and carefully ’ restored . The figure of St . George , Herod s feast

and the lowest scene depicting the life of St . Katherine of Alexandria were found to have been rial badly damaged , memo slabs having been i h fixed to the walls above them . The l fe of C rist

and His descent into Hades , represented by the head of a hideous red monster whose open mouth S is furnished with fangs of exceeding harpness , is shown on the south wall beneath the strange incident of Prince Belzera y at the funeral of the

Virgin Mary . Further to the east are the Seven

Acts of Corporal Mercy and the life of St . Katherine . Facing these on the north there are the following

e : . subj ects , b ginning at the east end St George ri and the Dragon ; St . Ch stopher, the patron saint ’ of travellers ; Herod s feast beneath the corona i l t on of the Virgin Mary , with the wa l of Heaven i st ll higher ; finally, the martyrdom of St . Edmund, r who is shown pierced with fourteen big ar ows , and above this painful scene a much less gory the u martyrdom of Becket , in which fo r knights

are depicted as parleying with the archbishop .

- fi In the chancel is a mail clad ef gy , probably ll representing Sir Wi iam Bruce of Pickering, 1 40 N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E M O O R S who in 1 337 was granted a licence to have a al chantry in the church . The beautiful abaster effigies of a knight a nd his lady in the Bruce chapel O do not belong to the Bruce family as ften stated , Roucliffe but are those of Sir David , or Rockcliffe ,

and Dame Margery his wife . Both wear the collar

of SS . In many ways the Old town of Pickering pre serves a singular remoteness from the busy outer

world . There the feudal spirit dies slowly, and within living memory many superstitious customs

were commonly practised .

1 42 F O R E S T O F K N A R E S B O R O U G H

Kirk H a mmerton C is notable for its Saxon hurch , possibly dating from between 950 and the Con

quest . It consists of a nave and chancel and a

western tower, but to the north has been erected such a large modern addition that the original insinifi n e is now dwarfed into g ca c . Allerton . In charming scenery, close to Allerton

Park , about two miles from the station , is the

church of Allerton Mauleverer, a building which has suffered much from rebuilding in the Church ri warden pe od . It is interestn on account of

‘ efli ies its g , two of them of wood and two of al abaster . They are probably of the Mauleverer

l 1 28 . family, who held A lerton as early as 4 Goldsb orough was the scene of an interesting 1 8 8 discovery in 5 , when , in digging a drain near l the church , a remarkable co lection of coins of the

ninth and tenth centuries was brought to light .

The church has much to attract attention , for besides a richly ornamented Norman door there are cross - legged recumbent knights in chain mail and many other monuments of great interest . Just below the village and the park runs the

beautiful Nidd , taking a most serpentine course , and forming a deep peninsula before it finally

turns in the direction of Knaresborough . Kn resb rou a o gh. Here the Nidd has worn its way deep down in the limestone , and is overhung by picturesque cliffs mantled with trees . On the i i left bank , h gh up above the water, are the ru ns the of famous castle of Knaresborough , built in

Norman times, and owned by a succession of

h ' h G C P oto (v. opposite) b y Illing wort o. KNA KES HO RO UG H

F rom t he on wh ich the Ca st le s ta nd s th is to wn a nd the ( tee/ 1 cha nnel of the N idd is ob ta ined

1 44 F O R E ST O F K N A R E S B O R O U G H in the redness of the stone a permanent record of the brutality of the invaders . A little lower down the river than the castle rock a tiny chapel has been cut out of the limestone l c iff . It is believed to have been the work of a a certain hermit n med Robert , who lived in another — hewn out cave about a mile lower down the river . ’ Ara m s This latter is often called Eugene cave , 1 after the supposed murderer, in 774, of one

Daniel Clark . H a rroga te is now one of the chief inland water

- 1 6 2 ing places of England , and yet before 4 it can i scarcely be found on the map . The d scoverer of the Spring was the seventh son of Sir Francis i Sl ngsby, who , recognising the remarkable pro ert ies p of the waters , protected the outlet with a wall . It was only after the Civil War that people began to find their way to this lonely spot , where 1 66 n the waters were described, in 4 as havi g

~ r a most unpleasant smell and taste . The fi st S inn was put up in 1 6 87. It bore the ign of the ’ 1 Queen s Head . Others followed, and by 749 there were such a number of inhabitants that a chapel was built ; famous people began to visit the well , among them Dr . Alexander Carlyle , the Scottish divine , Lord Clive and Smollett . From that time the progress from village to town 1 86 2 was rapid, and in it had been reached l by a rai way . The common called The Stray is the p redOmi al nant feature of Harrogate . To find natur scenery of any charm the visitor must explore I 11 ll: ,9 70 0t T H E AT H H ARRO E B S , GAT

1 46 F O R E S T O F K N A R E S B O R O U G H

studying astronomy and astrology with the Wh i canons . en he d ed he was laid to rest in the

monastery with many of his ancestors . The ruins of Bolton Abbey are well placed in a beautiful

reach of the Wharfe . They were painted by Thomas his Girtin , and a mezzotint made from picture is 1 1 reproduced in these pages . In 20 an Augustinian priory was founded by William Meschines at a place four miles to the west of the present site .

As in many other instances , the canons welcomed the Opportunity of moving to a more sheltered ’ site , land having been given them by the founder s 1 1 daughter Alice in 1 5 . A picturesque legend surrounds this gift , telling one how a son of this Lady Alice lost his life while attempting to leap the waters of the river, where a few miles above the abbey they rush through a very narrow rocky C hannel known as the Strid . In her grief, tradition

‘ says , the mother decided to devote herself to the rebuilding of the abbey near the Spot associated with her loss . It is hard to abandon such a story , and yet the charter conveying the new property to the canons bears the Signature beneath that of his mother of the son in whose memory the gift was supposedly made $

I lkley . Further down the course of the beautiful

Wharfe one comes to the popular resort of Ilkley, situated in a good position for wanderings over the

al . n fells or up the d e Boati g , too , is a feature of i e th s portion of the river, while for the arch ologist there is a great interest in the prehistoric remains Rumb olds on Moor .

1 48 TH E UR E B E L O W M A S H A M obtained as to the precise period to which these megalithic monuments belong . Ri on p . On high ground above the Ure stands m the ancient city of Ripon , do inated by its i m nster . There is a central

square of some picturesqueness , .

ornamented by an obelisk , and

at one end is the town hall , bearing in bold letters on its stucco front the words : Except cit tie ye Lord keep ye , ye Wake

man waketh in vain . Here every night at nine o ’clock a modern representative of the

Wakeman , wearing a three

cornered hat , blows three blasts

on a large circular horn . The minster externa lly is more conspicuous for giant buttresses

than for delicacy of treatment , a nd its Early English west front h as towers whose simplicity borders on plainness without A B RITI S H I D OL giving the massive effect of Nor I n ’l s eum a t man work . The central tower, fifd aro u h g and a great deal of the rest of the building , belong to the Transitional Norman period . A very remarkable feature of the interior is the incomplete reconstruction in the Perpendicular style of the Transitional arches of the crossing . The transepts are the fine Early English work al of Archbishop Roger , and the choir is so his work FOUNTAI N S ABBEY

Th e st a t ely ru ins o f t h e bea ut iful Cist ercia n M ona st ery fro m a bo v e t h e R i v er Skell 1 50 T H E U R E B E L O W M A S H A M

in part , the rest being of the Decorated period , di inclu ng the magnificent east window . Under the central tower is a crypt built about the year 699

by Wilfred . From the nave a narrow passage leads l to a vaulted cel , about seven feet wide by eleven O feet long . From it pens a smaller space , the wall of which is pierced by a narrow opening which lf ’ ” has been called St . Wi red s Needle , from an unsupported tradition that it was used at one time

as a test of female chastity . It is quite possible that the smaller chamber was a place for penitence or confessions . A pleasant road of three or four miles leads to Studley Royal where one can enter Studley

Park , and by one of the most romantic paths in delicious sylvan surroundings , approach the ai ruins of Fountains Abbey . The view one obt ns of the monastery through a gap in the foliage j ust above a beautiful strip of water is without doubt one of the most exquisite to be found in England . The great Perpendicular tower and the east end of the abbey church appear backed l by masses of fo iage , and framed in the nearer trees for which the park is famous . If any thing were required to add to the beauty of the ruins it is found in the perfection of the smooth turf which everywhere carpets the ground like green velvet . To a great extent it was due to the disgust ’ at the lack of discipline at St . Mary s Abbey at York that the founders of this great Benedictine house broke away and started a new community

F O U N T A I N S A B B E Y 1 51

a on the Skell . Permission to leave the p rent abbey was only obtained after a most unseemly ri ot , when there was much pushing and struggling and such noise that Archbishop Thurstan only ’

l diff l . made himse f heard with icu ty, and St Mary s was forthwith placed under an interdict , Thurstan

FOUNTAI N S H ALL A bea utiful Ja co bea n ho u s e nea r t h e ruins of t h e Abbey

i an d k leav ng with Prior Richard his twelve mon s , who eventually proceeded to Fountains . Their early experiences were very strenuous , but endow 1 1 1 1 ments began to pour in , and between 35 and 47 a considerable portion of the existing buildings i came nto existence . The domestic portion of the abbey is so complete that one can reconstruct without difficulty the whole of the daily life of the monks , while the roofless church retains 1 52 T H E U R E B E L O W M A S H A M

al much of its origin grandeur, including its Norman nave and the remarkable chapel of the nine altars . Fountains Hall is a lovely Jacobean mansion at no distance from the abbey . Its beautiful bay windows and gables make as fine a facade as one can find anywhere among houses of this period . A notable feature of the gallery is a fireplace

EFFI G IES OF T H E i MARMI ON S I N WE S T TANFIELD C H UR CH adorned with an elaborate carving representing the Judgment of Solomon .

Ta n eld . Ta nfi eld fi The pretty village of West , standing a little above the river, where it makes a great bend in its course , possesses a picturesque tower , all that remains of the home of the Mar C mions , in lose proximity to the parish church .

The two buildings make a most attractive picture , and inside the church lie the fine recumbent f Marrnion m ef igies of various members of the fa ily,

CHAPTER IX

I N WENSLEYDALE

To a ll admirers of English scenery who have not yet explored the dales of Yorkshire I say, as Charles Dickens did to Forster when describing

Chigwell name your day for going . For a lover of fine la ndscapes and rich historic associa l tion to miss the rugged fe ls , the noble rivers and a waterf lls , and the romantic castles and abbeys is a loss that nothing can make good . One may know the Lake District and the mountains of W al ar es , and have explored D tmoor and Exmoor, but none of these parts of England give one the same typ e of scenery nor so many links with the h great events of istory . The nearest comparison k one can ma e is with the dales of Westmoreland , but there everything is on a different and smaller al scale . There is in the d es of Yorkshire a wide ness in the views , a sense of what the French all a s lib re would c a p y , which has an extra ordinary attractiveness for nature lovers . Beda le is perhaps one of the best places from which to begin an exploration of Wensleydale . The scenery is the open plain of the Vale of

Mowbray , and one is not in Wensleydale , yet I recommend it as having the advantage of the 1 54 B E D A L E 1 55 railway which passes through the whole length of the dale . Situated in a part of the county frequently al subj ected to the invasions of the Scots , Bed e shows something of the measures it took for l d C defence in the so i ity of its hurch tower, one of u l the doorways of which was defended by a portc l is . It is a remarkably fine Church with a very unusual arcade to the nave . The period is Early English , and the pillars and bases are all different . The originality of design and unwillingness to fall into the easy methods of repetition in ornament display the presence of some exceptional architect or craftsman whose influence appears to have been felt , if he were not actually responsible for the arcades of the same period and originality at

Patrick Brompton and Hornby (Jerva ulx station) .

The four altar tombs bearing efligies are notable . That in the north - west corner of the nave rep re Fit zal a n sents , with little doubt , Brian , who was a

- great grandson of Alan , third Earl of Richmond . The alabaster figure is shown cross- legged and in ai ch n mail and with head uncovered . Besides the church there is little to delay one at Bedale , for the castle held in Norman times by the Fit zal a ns al al has tot ly disappeared . The Bed e Hunt , one of the famous packs of England , hunts the country between the Swale and the Ure . jerva ulx is the station for the two notable C erva ulx hurches j ust mentioned and for J Abbey . n Hor by Castle , near the church , is a house of the ri Tudor pe od belonging to the Duke of Leeds . 1 56 I N W E N S L E Y D A L E

ll ‘ Wi iam III . gave the dukedom to Thomas Osborne who was prominent in securing for him the throne of England . The scenery of the park is most attractive , and the pictures in the castle include

the work of Velasquez , Holbein , Hogarth , Rubens and Reynolds .

Four or five miles to the south , between the l Ure and the fe ls , are the slight remains of what was once the very beautiful Cistercian abbey of

erva ulx - J . The name is Norman French for Yore

- al vale or Ure d e , but why it should have been pronounced Jarvis is as puzzling as the cor

ruption of Rievaulx in Rivers . Perhaps the descent of Ypres to Wipers may show the

same tendency . The story of the founding of the

abbey is similar to others in Yorkshire . A wealthy

- Norman , Akar Fitz Bardolph , gave as a site for a a monastery a piece of l nd at Fors , near Askrigg , l i higher up the da e . It was not l ked by the monks 1 1 0 of Byland , who were sent there in 5 , and they accepted with alacrity the new site lower down the valley O ffered a few years later by the Earl di of Richmond . The ruins in cate that the chief

' p eriod of construction was at the end of the Nor man and during the preval ence of the Early

English style . Not only were the monks famous — for the Cheese they produced who knows York shire and has not partaken of a Wensleydale — but they were al so very well known for the

horses they bred . At the Dissolution the breed appears to have been considered one of the best

in the north of England .

1 58 I N W E N S L E Y D A L E

boasting the ponderous ruin of its castle . It has , u unfortunately, more b lk than picturesqueness . 1 1 0 There is a Norman keep , built about 9 by Robert

itz- F Randolph , grandson of a brother of the Earl of , Richmond , and enclosing this massive shell , but without much intervening space , is the outer i enclosure of walls bu lt in the fourteenth century . About the year 1 270 Middleham became the i property of the Nevilles . Richard Nev lle , Earl

W n - of arwick , the Ki g maker , came there frequently, and Richard III . , after his marriage ’ with the Lady Anne Neville (the King- maker s daughter) , was often at the castle . Here Edward , 1 6 Prince of Wales , his only son , was born in 47 , and here the lad died when eight years old in 1 8 4 4, the year before his father lost his life fight ing desperately in the battle fought at Market h Bosworth , in Leicesters ire . Kin H enr VI Shakespeare , in Part III . of g y d v . lays Scene of the fourth act at Mid leham , 1 6 Ed eco t e where , in 4 9, after his defeat at g , it is said that Warwick kept Edward IV . prisoner

for a time . ’ W - illiam s Hill , an important earth work to the south of the castle , doubtless belongs to the i Saxon period . At the foot of the deep and w ld glen of Cover Dale , two miles from Middleham , are the romantically- situated ruins of Coverham

Abbey, largely occupied by a farm There remain the gate- house and a good deal of the Early English f nave of the church . Two stone ef igies may possibly Ra nul h itzrob ert be from the tombs of p , or Ralf F ,

Ph 0 osite b I in worth 6 Co. oto ( . opp ) y ll g

1 6 0 I N W E N S L E Y D A L E

Scrope obtained the necessary licence to crenellate , as it was termed , and proceeded to erect a fortress which occupied eighteen years in building . Lord Henry Scrope (seventh baron) led his men at Flo dd enf a nd it was the ninth baron who sent the captive Queen of Scots from Carlisle to Bolton

- C to be certain of her safe custody . His vice hamber l r lain , Sir Francis Kno lys , was in cha ge of the prisoner . He gave her lessons in English , and while there she wrote him her first letter in the newly Knoleis acquired language . It begins . Mester ,

I heve sum neus from Scotland , and ends I i prey God h euu you in his k p in. Your assured gud i rind , Marie R . She wrote her name on a pane of glass , but it was smashed on being taken to

Bolton Hall for greater safety . The local legend of Mary ’s attempted escape and recapture at the Queen ’s Gap on Leyburn Shawl lacks any

confirmation . A r ysga th . Near the foot of the branch valley of Bishopdale the Ure pours its waters over a

series of terraces of solid limestone . There are f low clif s on either side overhung by trees , and the

scene presented has a certain grandeur, while the successive cascades of great width give Aysgarth Force a character unique among English water m falls . In average su mer weather the quantity of water is not always as shown in the illustration fi given here , but it is quite suf cient to be impressive .

If one stays at the village of Aysgarth , or at

Carperby on the other bank of the river, one is well placed for the walk up Bishopdale across the

1 6 2 I N W E N S L E Y D A L E

Opposite the cross and bull- ring stands a very t wo delightful stone house dated 1 6 78. Between

S EVENTEENT H - C ENTURY H OU S E AT A S K RI G G Th e gal lery w a s do ubt l ess u sed fo r w a t ching t h e bull ba it ing which t o o k p la ce belo w picturesque bays rising to the whole height of the

four floors is a gallery erected , it is thought , as a vantage point from which to watch the bull - 1 6 H O R N B L O W I N G , B A I N B R I D G E 3

C baiting . Askrigg used to make locks , and it was also noted for its hand- knitting which was carried on by men as well as women . Down by the riverside low and picturesque cottages scattered round a broad patch of green make up the hamlet of Bainbridge , a charming spot worth coming far to discover . There is an old custom of blowing the forest horn still kept alive in the village Since the days when benighted travellers through the Forest of Wensleydale ’ were liable to lose their way . At ten o clock every night between Holyrood and Shrove Tuesday the ai custom of sounding this horn is still maint ned . The picturesque Rose and Crown inn Claims to have been established since 1 445. An interest of much greater antiquity belongs to this part of Wensleydale , for just above the village on the extremity of the northern buttress of Wether Fell there can still be seen clear indica l tions of a Roman camp . It wou d seem that during the Roman occupation a road went from I surium (Aldborough) through Middleham to this

Spot . From thence it is a matter of conj ecture where the track led—one imagines that it would have been continued through the pass to link up with roads in Lancashire and Westmoreland . a nl h al H wes . The o y ot er village in the d e is — Hawes a place of dull grey stone large enough to call itself a little town . The name is a corrup tion of the Teutonic word meaning a pass or neck , and is spelt hause in the Lake District . It n is a market tow , has a knitting and hosiery 1 6 4 I N W E N S L E Y D A L E n i dustry , and is the metropolis of a large area of the high fells . Upon Hawes depends the scattered local population for such life and gaiety as it produces . About a couple of miles north of Hawes is Ha rdra w Scar , where the beck descending from the But t ertub s Pass pours its water over a ledge of mills tone grit and falls more than ninety feet into a pond hemmed in on three sides by a semicircle of rock . The shale beneath the stratum of grit is easily weathered away , so that it is possible to walk on a path slippery with Spray am behind the falling water . The s e formation — ri of the groun—d ie . millstone g t resting on softer shales produces the salient features of a an the l ndscapes of this part of the Pennine R ge , i the hard stratum rema ning flat and horizontal , i al wh le the sh e , where not so protected, is quickly worn away . From Hawes there ascends a very rough and toilsome road over the But t ertub s Pass into the m upper extremity of Swaledale . The curious na e of the pass has its origin in the potholes in the limestone to be found at its highest point . These great natural shafts, leading into vast underground r cave ns with long ramifications , are a source of great danger to those who wander carelessly over l the fel s , for they are often unprotected , and the da nger of a sudden fall into the waters of an a i underground stre m , or st ll worse , on to hard rock , is not to be ignored . Pedestrians in search of a rough walk and a small

CHAPTER X

SWALEDALE

THE headlong descent of the road from the Butter i tubs Pass br ngs one into Swale—dale , where the village of Muker is to be found a situation as remote as any in the country . If there is no history and no arche ology to give interest to the head of the wild valley of the Swal e its scenery f is su ficiently imposing to fill the gap , and there are joys for the lover of great open spaces , of weathered

- precipices overtopped by cloud capped heights , and o f becks that fling themselves with throaty music from ledge to ledge and soon afterwards disappear in some narrow Cleft . To the town dweller such solitude and the feeling of airy space shared only with a few sheep and birds are the ingredients of the tonic he needs , and it is hard not to feel ten years younger after a week in such

surroundings .

Between Muker and Reeth , the next village

down the vale , the distance is over nine miles , and there being no railway the wanderer must k find his own means of transport or wal . It is pre - eminently a country for the pedestrian or for

one who rides a strong pony . Reeth is pleasantly l situated on a green close to Ark e Beck , which k n h comes noisily out of Ar e ga rt dale further north . 1 66 M A R R I C K P R I O R Y 1 6 7

The village at one time prospered owing to the proximity of lead mines , now abandoned . Only l ha f a mile away is Grinton , with its grey houses i and picturesque church , stand ng close to the

Swale . The base of the tower and the font are i hi Norman , but a great nterval separates t s from the rest of the structure , which is Perpendicular . hi The parish is one of the largest in Yorks re , and of its acres some consist of mountain ,

- grouse moor and scar . Turner painted the ruins of Marrick Priory

al . one and a h f miles lower down the dale It was , nunnes according to Leland , a convent for blake l and was endowed by Roger de Aske . E lerton

Nunnery , on the other Side of the river, was

Cistercian , the sisters wearing white . Marrick folk having used the nave of the priory i hi idi as their par sh church , t s portion of the bu l ng has been preserved , and was rebuilt early in last

u . cent ry It is now little used , and is falling into a state of decay . r al S Ma ske H l , in a ituation of great charm , has been the home of the Hutton family from the i beg nning of the seventeenth century , and con a tains m ny interesting pictures , and also a gold l cup given by E izabeth to Matthew Hutton , who was Archbishop of York from 1 595 to 1 6 06 . The house is presumably unique in being the birthplace i of two archbishops , another Matthew hav ng held ffi 1 the highest o ce at York , and , finally, in 757, at

Canterbury . The obelisk seen above the woods t is to the memory of Captain Mat hew Hutton . M 1 6 8 S WA L E D A L E

Richmond (approached by rail from a j unction on the main line j ust south of Darlington) al al stands at the gateway of Sw ed e , and no doubt appeared to the builder of the great Norman

castle a place of immense strategic importance , and yet , strangely enough , there are no records of any siege nor yet of any battles in its neigh b urho d o o . If one adds to this the fact that it had become a ruin in the reign of Edward 1 2 III . ( 3 7 and that in the Parliamentary Wa r it was so ignored that no order wa s given

for its dismantling, an interesting problem is presented . Possibly in its early days it was con i er s d ed . 1 1 too strong to be attacked In 74, that — crucial year of his reign when Henry II . was

fighting from the Tweed to the Pyrenees , and — ’ William the Lion had crossed the Border Henry s first thought seems to have been of the safety of r Richmond , for he enquired whether his justicia y ” n l Rih n Ra u ph de Glanville were in c emu t . In writing of Richmond it is essential to begin with the castle for, as was usual in feudal times , it was under its Shelter that the town grew and prospered and became a great mart for all r Richmond shie . Before the Conquest Richmond a did not exist , the Saxon seat of loc l government

ll . being at Gi ing , three miles to the north There wi the great northern earl, Ed n of Mercia , brother of Morcar, ruled until William had crushed his rebellion and Northumbria had been devastated with sufficient ferocity to secure the whole country to the Conqueror . Then followed the presentation

1 70 S WA L E D A L E

from various plagues , causing a very high death

1 011. About the same time other market towns , dl m al such as Mid eha , Bed e and Masham , became 1 keen competitors . Again , in 597, Richmond was i visited by yet another pest lence , which was so severe that there were over a thousand deaths in the parish . Although the castle became ruinous as far back e l as medi val times , it is singu arly complete as it stands to - day in comparison with many other

Norman strongholds . The massive keep , built

not by the founder, but probably by Duke Conan l in the latter ha f of the twelfth century , still i a nd retains its orig nal height of a hundred feet ,

in its completeness compares with Dover, Bam

burgh , Alnwick , Newcastle , and even the Tower

of London .

Richmond possessed a house of Grey Friars , al who , contrary to the ide s of the Franciscan

Order, waxed rich , and were able to erect for

themselves a beautiful monastery . Of this only l a single tower remains , but it is of such exceptiona beauty that in its commanding position it is a

great ornament to the town . The finely placed S French a t e parish church , on a steep lope below g , l was very drastica ly restored by Sir Gilbert Scott ,

who rebuilt the arcades of the nave , and little

structural interest now remains . In descending the road from this church towards the station it is almost impossible to bestow enough praise upon the town for having preserved such a singularly u unspoiled approach . Even the pict res painted

1 72 S WA L E D A L E who were afterwards confused with the original founder . t l Ca terick . A road from Easby follows rough y the course of the river , and brings one in a little over two miles to Catterick . It stands on Leeming

Lane , the great trunk road from York , through r Boroughbridge to Barnard Castle and Ca lisle , which follows for many miles its Roman pres decessor . It was here , with little doubt , that the Ca t ara ct onium Roman town of , mentioned in the i ar . first Antonine It ner y , was to be found It seems probable that the Romans occupied the Ca ra t a uc British town called Caer , a place of such consequence that N ennius places it after Caer

Eb ra uc (York) . The Roman site is to the west

Of the modern village . In its original form Catterick bridge dates from 1 its 425. The contract for construction is preserved at Brough Hall and gives its actual cost . CHAPTER X I

TEESDAL E

THE northern limits of Yorkshire are very definitely marked by the course of that fine river the Tees , whose parentage is found in the loftiest and wildest region of the Pennines . From Cross Fell , a mountain j ust one - tenth the height of Everest

feet) , comes the main feeder , and many lesser burns flow from scarcely inferior heights .

Gathering together, they produce at Cauldron

Snout the most northerly waterfall in the county . The stream dashes down a precipitous wall of ” d greenstone , or whin , about two hun red feet in n il height , and on accou t of the w d grandeur of its surroundings the fall ranks among the finest in and most impressive England . o l Ab ut four mi es lower down , the river, grown in somewhat volume , encounters another cliff , over which it pours in noble fashion , its width being divided into two as it falls by a great buttress r - of g eenstone . This is the rightly famed High

Force . In dry weather the fall is restricted to the right (facing towards the sea) Side of the roc k it requires wet weather to give the full effect of o i the double stream . I am often disapp nted in waterfalls , but this and the broad terraces at Aysgarth have a grandeur which produced quite I 73 1 74 T E E S D A L E

another feeling . Particularly was this the case d at High Force , where the fall , at a istance , forms the centre of a most imposing landscape nu equalled by anything I have found elsewhere in England or Scotland . On one side moorland Comes down to the Cliffs overhanging the deep

channel below the falls , and opposite are masses al i n i of tall firs , most capable of rem ndi g a Canad an

of his own country .

- - e ale M iddleton in Te sd . There is a comfortable inn on the main road near the High Force where ri one can put up while explo ng the fells , and five

al l - in- l miles down the d e is Midd eton Teesda e ,

a little town of grey houses pleasantly situated . l This place is in Durham , whi e the station at the terminus of the line from Darlington and Barnard

- Castle is in Yorkshire . Lead mining and quarrying

give vitality to the town , and the reverberation of blasting Operations in the neighbourhood reminds the men who were at the front in France or

Belgium of their experiences of modern warfar e . Romaldkirk is a pleasant village with an interesting cruciform Church of various periods between Transitional Norman and Late Per

endicula r . p . It is not known who was the St

Romald to whom the Church was dedicated . On the westernmost columns of the nave there are

- portions of wall paintings , there is a three decker pulpit and a recumbent effigy of Sir

- Hugh Fitz Henry who died in 1304. other to e C s n . Slight remains of a castle of the Fit z- Hughs of Ravensworth can be seen at Cother

1 76 T E E S D A L E

Just outside the town one comes upon the most — surprising modern palace a vast structure de signed on the lines of the HOt el de Ville at Le

r . Hav e This is now known as the Bowes Museum , and is the result of the enthusiasm and generosity of Mr . John Bowes of Streatlam Castle , and of e e alb . his wife , Jos phine B noite , Countess of Mont o It was the wish of the gifted French woman to build a great museum for the vast collection ’ ob ets d a rt of j she had acquired , and this was carried to its completion after her death . The result of her enterprise is the existence , in this ma nifi curiously remote part of England , of a g centl - y housed collection of pictures , tapestries , faience and furniture unrivalled in England out l side the metropo is .

A mile or more below Barnard Castle , in a S l delightful ituation , c ose to the deep channel of the Tees , are the ruins of Eggleston Abbey, n a foundation for Premonstrate sian Canons, estab lished at a somewhat uncertain date , but known to exist at the commencement of the thirteenth i century . The remains of the church cons st of i n nave , cho r, and portions of the tra septs , mainly in the Early English style . The east window of the choir is a singularly plain example of that period . Unfortunately the interesting block of i ll domestic build ngs is fa ing into ruin, and as timber has been used in wall construction over the window recesses, the collapse of other parts of the buildings is only a question of time unless judicious restoration is taken in hand at once . A PI C TURE S $UE S TO NE - B UILT H OU S E AT BARNAR D C A S TLE 1 78 T E E S D A L E

Lower down its course the scenery of the Tees ri and its t butary , the Greta , has long been famed rm for its wonderful sylvan cha . The deep rocky beds of the two rivers are overhung by beautiful l masses of fo iage , spanned by the Abbey and

Dairy bridges , beneath which the water flows oVer ledges and among great boulders .

E G G LE S TO N ABBEY I t is p ictu res qu ely p l a ced a bo v e t h e Tees

Bowes is interesting for two very different

- reasons . It stands upon a well authenticated L a va t ra e Roman highway, and is the of the second and fifth Antonine Itineraries . The road came northwards from Catterick on its way to ra e r Brough (Vert e ) . Roman inscriptions of g eat n i terest have been found here , and for anyone staying in this neighbourhood to fail to study the subj ect very fully is to miss a most illumi

I N D EX

B 6 1 Cheese 1 6 1 ADDL E ROUGH , 1 , 5 , 75 A e 8 t on 6 d l , 5 ur , 7 t A o o h 1 1 8 1 6 am l o f 28 1 1 1 ldb r ug , 47, 4 , 3 F i y , , 34, 37, 3 , 3 A o h 1 2 Cho Ga te 8 10 ldbr ug , p , 4, 3 n 1 1 C e e a n Hi s 10 1 1 2 1 8 Allersto , 4 l v l d ll , 43 , , 4, 2 A e t on Ma l eve e 1 2 C f o a m o f 6 6 6 1 ll r u r r , 4 lif rd , F ily , 5, , 45 n 8 Co a th a m Al e, 7 , 45 A m o s 126 1 2 Co -fi h tin 10 lu W rk , , 7 ck g g , 9 Am e o th 2 Co 80 pl f r , 9 ld Kirby , Aram E ene 1 Con sb o o h Cas t e , ug , 44 i r ug l , 54 Ark en arthd ale 1 6 6 Coo e Ca ta n 1 2 g , k , p i , 4 A a th 1 60 Co ve Da e 1 8 As i 1 6 1 6 1 1 6 2 . ysg r , r l , 5 , 1 5 kr gg , 5 , , 9 Co e a v rd le , M les 1 59 n e 1 6 i , B a br dg , 3 i i Coverha m Abbey 1 58 F o f 1 1 , B all ol a m ly , 2 , 75 i , i 3 Co xwo 6 8 ld , 7 , 6 Ba en Fo es t 1 rd r , 45 C a e 6 r yk . 7 , 77 t on 1 Ba rms , 5 Cro mwell Ol ver 88 1 41 1 1 1 6 , i , , B a rnard Ca stle, 72 , 75, 7 C o ton 10 1 C th b e t St . 6 r p , 3 , 09 . r 7 a 1 x 0 u , , B ed le , 1 54, 55, 7 ’ e a s e 122 ’ B gg r Bridg , Danes D e 1 8 yk , em t on 1 2 B p , 0 Danes n s ons of 1 1 2 6 8 6 , l cur i , , 5, 3 , 4 , eve e 6 —0 B rl y , 7 7 De a Ma e a m o f 10 6 1 1 l r , F ily , I I ( , s a e 8 B l d l , 3 De la o e a m o f 1 2 i P l , F ily , 5, B r n 1 ’ i ki , 5 Devrl s A ows The 1 rr , , 47 sho a e 1 60 sho ton 6 B pd l , Bi p il , 4 Do s a t H i W ck ull , 3 a e To m 1 20 Bl k y p p g , o D nca s ter , 53 o t o A 1 6 B l n bbey , 1 45, 4 Do theb o 1 ys Ha l , 79 t 6 l Bolt on Cas le, 159 , 1 0 rifli l D e d , 73 o o h 1 1 1 2 B r g bridge, 43 , 47, 7 D n om e a 81 86 u u c b P rk , , o C s B ulby liff , 43 o wes 1 8 1 M se m 1 6 Eas Ab b e 1 1 B , 7 , 79 ; u u , 7 by y , 7 a ns a e 8 8 1 0 1 Eas n wo Br d l , 4, 9 , i g ld , 77 B es Me ie va 1 28 1 2 Eas t H a se 1 2 ridg , d l , , 7 rl y , 9 n ton 1 - 1 Eas te Da te of 6 Bridli g , 5 7 r , , 3 Brimh a o s 1 E e s ton 1 1 1 1 m R ck , 45 bb r , 3 , 4 t ta n A a n R s D e o f 1 6 E st o ne Bri y , l ufu , uk , 9 d , 99

B 1 6 E wa l . 1 1 1 romp ton 1 1 1 d rd , 3 , 4, , 75 , 5,

e a m o f 1 2 1 26 1 E wa I l . 26 2 1 0 1 6 Bruc , F ily , 5, , 39 d rd , , 9 , 3 , 3

en 1 E wa IV. 1 2 6 Buckd , 45 d rd , 5, 5 , 5 n ha m D es of 8 86 6 10 Edw m Ea 1 00 1 6 8 Bucki g , uk , 5, , 9 , 97, 4 , rl , , t ho e 6 E w n of No t h m a 6 0 6 6 Bug rp , 3 d i r u bri , , l - a t n 1 1 6 2 Effi ies 1 8 6 8 1 2 Bu l b i i g , 77, 57, g . 5. 5. 4 . 57. 7. 7, 93 , t on A nes 1 1 2 t 1 2 1 1 8 x Bur g , 5 4 . 4a. 5 , 53 . 5 . 74 But tert ub s ass 1 6 E es to n A e 1 6 P , 4 ggl bb y , 7 8 1 2 a n A b e 80 0 1 2 1 6 E t on Moo r 4 , 2 Byl d b y, , 9 , 9 , 9 , 5 , EgIza b eth oo v e 0 1 d ill , 7 , 7 Ce rle W dmon, 3 6 . Ca rpe y , 1 6 0 Ellerb um 1 13 Ca t e Mn a t e 1 08 10 , r r , , cur , , 9 N n e 1 6 Ellert on n ry , 7 Cas t e H owa 1 u l rd , 7 t 1 Eros on o f coas , , 2 Ca t ter ck 1 72 1 78 i i , , Es Esk R ve 1 2 cr ck , 47. , i r , 2 Ca ron Sno t 1 i uld u , 73 x 8 Es ec al ter 7 , 3 . 85. 1 3 2 Ca w p . W , ood , 48 C a wtho ne Ca m s 0 1 0 Ca t on 2 a a x am o f 8 1 1 r p , 4 , 9 y , 3 F irf , F ily , 5, 93 , 94, 4 Cha one ami of a nda e 10 1 10 fi l r , F ly , F r l , , 3 o Cha Fa u n L s 88 - es I . co b er o rl , 54 g , rd , r Ch a 8 2 ‘ se II . 6 e 1 22 rl , 7, 9 Fil y , , , 3 , 1 80 I N D E X 1 81

0 1 o h 1 1 8 20 2 1 2 Kettleness , 4 , 4 Fla mb or ug , 7, , , , 3 Forge Va lley 1 1 6 , 9 1 0 1 2 Form ta rns Abbey and H all , 5 , 5 9 t es 6 6 l n a es Moo 1 0 1 pl ng Co , Fy i gd l r , Ki i — Moo s e 86 100 Kirby r id , , 95 G altres o es t of 70 74, 75 , F r , , Un e a e 6 Kirby d rd l , 3 G as co r ne e g , J dg , 57 H a mme ton 1 2 u Kirk r , 4 a ves t o n e s 2 6 G , Pi r , ve 1 00 Kirkdale Ca ,

e I I I . Georg , 47, 53 Ch h 8 irkdale rc , 9 , 99 t 0 K u Ge man o m a ments of oa s , 3 , 3 3 , 3 7 r b b rd c Kna es o o h 1 8 1 2 1 r b r ug , 3 , 4 , 43 G ant The Yo sh e 6 6 i , rk ir , - l h 3 9 5 La d e a m of 3 , 13 2 pg , 9 cy , , F ily , 5 G cra l a t o n 2 100 1 1 la c i , , 95, , 34 La ke dwellings , 35 2 G ais a e 84, 1 22 , 1 3 Lan a e Sir Ma ma e 20 l d l , gd l , r duk , 1 Goa thla nd 8 122 , 3 2 L a n s tro thd ale 1 6 , 4, g , 5 Go s o o h 1 42 Las t n ha m 1 0 - 10 ld b r ug , i g , 3 9 Goo manh a m 6 6 Lev sh am 1 20 1 1 d , i , , 34, 3 5 G ea t Driflield 73 Le n 1 r , ybur , 57 G et a R ve 1 8 L L b o o h 6 6 6 r r , 7 o t s . on es , i f u , 43 d r ug , 5, nt o n 1 6 Gri , 7 2 am le 2 6 Malt on 0 , 6 , 72 Gros ll , , 4 , Wi i — o h 1 2 1 2 M a et on 1 2 G os mont 1 22 . G sb o 4 7 ppl , r , ui r ug , M t e ht on 6 6 arke W ig , a ness 1 1 8 1 1 H ck , , 9 f 1 2 1 M a rm on a m ly o , 5 , 53 , i 1 2 1 2 i F Ha m et on H s 0 , , 9 bl ill , 79 , 9 , 9 9 M o 1 6 a rr ck Pr ry , 7 1 0 i i Hardra d a Hara lld 1 1 2 8, 6 2 , 0 , , , 5, 4 6 M ars ke H all , 1 7 H ardra w S a 1 6 c r , 4 8 1 1 M a rs t on Moo r , 5, 4 H a ewoo Ho se and Cas t e 57 r d u l , a e n ew M rv ll , A dr , 5, 7 H a o 2 1 00 r ld 5, 99, M een o f S ots 1 160 ary $u c , 59 , H a o a t e 1 rr g , 44 0 Masha m , 1 53 , 1 7 H a wes 1 6 1 6 , 3 , 4 6 1 2 1 Mea x Abbey , 3 , , , 4 H a b um e 0 1 u y Wyk , 3 , 3 M eha m 1 1 8 1 6 170 iddl , 57, 5 , 3 , He on 6 d , es o h 6 M ddl br g , 45, 4 H elms le 6 1 00 i u 9 , n 1 M ddl et o , 1 0 H emin h a te d e 1 2 i g urg , 55 ; W l r , 5 in 1 1 2 Monas t c life La x ty , 5 , 5 , t t a a 1 6 1 i i Henr e a M r , , 7 i i Morca r Ea rl 1 00 1 3 6 , , , Hen I . 1 6 ry , 3 o 1 28 Mo nt Gra ce Pr ry , 1 6 8 u i Hen I I . 26 7 ry , , 9 , Mowb a am of 1 1 2 r y , F ily , 9 , 3 Hen I V. 1 2 7, 1 28 ry , , 5 M e 1 6 6 uk r , VI . 1 28 Henry , 52 , M lgra ve Cas tle, 40 Hih o e 1 x u g F rc . 73 . 74 of 0 1 Hfld a St 8 1 1 N ev lle a m ly , 7 , 75 . 9 , i . . 33 . 34. 3 i F m f 88 His t emm th e Eccen 2 5 N ewb rgh ll a o , r , J y ( 5 , 3 u , Wi i — h o 8 88 H o e ness 1 1 26 N ewb rg Pr ry , 7, ld r , 5, u i H o n Cast e and Ch h 1 Newt on Da e 1 10 1 22 1 3 4 r by l urc , 55 l , , , 1 Ho nsea 1 1 1 6 1 N R ve 1 1 1 2 1 , 45 r , 3 , 4, idd , i r , 4 , 4 , 43

H o th a m Sir ohn 6 7 N ort ha llert o n, 1 3 0 , J , How en Ro e de N n nh olme 6 6 d , 55 ; g r , 55 u bur , 4, 5 H ub b erholme 1 6 1 , 80 1 Old Byland , , 9 H —6 H m 0 1 . e 2 ull , u b r , , 9 , 5 12 Osmo t herley , 9 H nman 2 2 u by , a 1 0 Os wald ng of De r , 5 Hunt clifi N a b , Ki i , 45 ha m 6 wi n . Ot t n Os u, K g , 3 4 ri g , , 7 H t ton Buscel 1 1 i u , g H t ton am ol 1 6 a a menta War 1 6 X 7, 53 . 54; 34 u , F ily , 7 P rli ry , , 1 1 x 8 1 3 8. 1 4 . 44, 4 h 1 6 le 1 6 . n e o o Ilk y , 4 I gl b r g , 5 u a te e e 1 ’ P l y Bridg , 45 I va nhoe Sir . Sco tt s , 54 , W a t o m t on 1 P rick Br p , 55 6 A. 106 10 a n t on a k son ohn R . t J c , J , , , 7 P ri g , 9 V 1 a inus 6o 66 ames 1. ( I . of Sco ts) , 54, 3 3 P ul , , . erva ulx Ab b e 1 1 6 1 6 1 en a n 6 y , 55, 5 , P d , Ki g , 3 ohn K n 1 ones a u a te 1 enh ea on 1 J , i g , 37. J , P l , pir , 3 P ill B c , 59 1 82 T H R O U G H Y O R K S H I R E

Pen- -Ghent 16 St a nto n a e C f 1 y , 5 i d l li f , 3 Sta thes 2 e a m of . 55. 6 8, 69 i , 4 , 43 P rcy , F ily — e n 2 8 1 1 n o 1 x c Sta m o e 6 2 Pick ri g . 7 , 4. 95. 3 . . 35 4 f rd Bridg , o n to n 6 t a n a a t t e of 82 1 1 1 2 P ckli g , 4 d rd , B l , , 3 , 3 onte a t 1 8 1 S t a e 1 02 1 10 P fr c , 53 , 3 , 43 p , , eh s t o ema ins 1 1 8 20 St e hen K n 1 1 Pr i ric r , 5, , , 44, 47, p , i g , 3 Ste ne La en 6 86 r , ur ce, 7 , St illin fl eet g , 48, 49 Ra ilwa Ea 1 rly , 34 St n t on 6 lli g , 7 Ra sk el i 79 St ea t a m Cas t e 1 r l l , 76 Re a dc r . 45 m Strensa ll Ca p , 70 Re m e 1 d ir , 59 t Th r d , e, 1 46 Reeth 1 6 6 1 6 7 i , , und ial Sa xo n 1 2 80 8 100 s , , , , 9 , 99 , R h a I L 1 3 8, 1 ic rd , 53 , 43 S e T an D f hos . H o e o 1 28 urr y , ll d , uk , R h a I I I . 1 8 1 7 ic rd , 5 , 5 t n-i - h - t 6 86 S t o n t e ores , 7 , R h mon 1 6 8- 1 2 Ea s o f 2 1 8 u F ic d , 7 ; rl , 9 , 5 wo an e 8. es Sir Ta t ton S rd d c , 1 Syk 73 R eva l x Ab e 81—8 1 , , i u b y, 3 , 9 R on 1 8 a t 6 ip , 4 T dcas er , 5 ' — Rob n H oo d s Ba 1 3 Tees a e 1 - i y, 3 3 d l , 73 179

Romaldskirk , 174 h rs 1 1 1 T i k . 79. 9 . 3 6 1 1 2 1 8 - - Roma n roa ds , 39, 40 , 6 , 09 , 7 , 7 Tho nt on le Da e 1 1 2 1 1 r l , , 3 o a n t es 1 6 0 1 1 10 1 1 6 R m s , 3 , 40 , , 09, , 47, 3 Th s t a n A h sho o f Yo 82 1 i ur , rc bi p rk , , 9 Rose e To n 1 2 b rry ppi g , 4 Tos t Ea 2 6 2 10 0 i , rl , 5, , 99 , Roseda le, 1 0 , 104, 123 To wt on a t t e of 2 6 3 , B l , 5 , 5 R005 am 86 f ily , , 94 T o ts al e 1 1 1 20 r u d , 4, Ro nton 1 2 u , 9 Ulf or Ul h 1 6 0 ow t n p , 3 , R ls o H all , 1 3 u s t one 1 R d , 5 anb h th e a h te t 1 V rug , rc i c , 7 u ld Moo 1 6 R mb o s r, 4

a a nt n s 1 . a t e 6 R ns w Ba 1 2 ll p g , 39 r r , 5 u ick y , 4 , 4 W i i W W arm ek Fam of 0 1 8 1 R e t n e 1 1 , ly , 7 , 5 , 75 up r , Pri c , 4 i ass , 2 R swa 122. R ed l e 81 9 u rp , y a , W ens e 1 W l y , 59 - - -t h Sea - Sal tb rn b y e , 45 ens e a e 1 1 6 u W l yd l , 54 5 Sa lt a 120 1 22 ersg te , , es t Ta nfi eld 1 2 — W , 5 a n 8 0 1 2 S dsend , 4 , 7 ethe e 16 1 6 W r F ll , 3 , 5 k es 1 1 1 20 Sca mridge y , 4, ha e-fishin W l g , 43 o h - 0 1 8 Sca rbo r g , 24 30 , 1 2 , 3 u ha e , R ve 7 1 5, 1 6 W rf i—r , 5 , 4 4 Sca wt on, 80 Whi 8 1 2 t v 33 3 : 7 S o t t sh a s 0 2 1 0 1 1 c i r id , 9 , 9 , 3 , 43 , 55 Whit ed ale 12 , e f 1 1 Scrop , am ly o , 1 59, 1 60 , 7 e o e a m F i Wilb rf rc , Willi , 5 - Sea man, St ory of 4 1 , 4 e Sr. 6 1 1 0 Wilfr d , , 3 , 3 , 5 - Selb y , 48 50 I 6 8 1 6 am . 2 0 8 Willi , , 5 , 5, e a r ’ Semm rw te , 16 1 am s H 1 8 Willi ill , 5 Sherb um -in-Emet 2 l , 5 ton 1 1 Wil , 4 heriff H t t n 0 S o , 7 nes tea u Wi d , 7 S nn n ton 10 g , 97, 104, 5 t hes 10 i i Wi c , 3 S e t o n k l , 75 t he nsea 2 Wi r , , 9 Skinmn r ve — - g o . 44. 45 o s 1 6 1 8 20 2 2 6 2 W ld , , , , 73 Ski w th 8 , 4 o se Ca na 8 i W l y , rdi l , 4 Si me e r , 73 oo t a e 6 2 W l r d , 3 , S ei hts 1 22 i l g , W ord sworth a m 1 1 , Willi , 5 Sl b a m o f 1 x mss y. ly . 43 . 44 o ms Le en s o f 1 0 2 F i W r , g d , 44, Smeeto n ohn 1 0 , J , eh m A e 1 18 1 1 ess e . a Wr l , 54 Wyk bb y , , Sm n 1 . Sna th 2 uggli g , 5 i , 5 S eeto n 22 Ya rm 128 p , , — S n Hea 1 1 Yo 26 6 2 7 1 1 0 1 72 pur d , 7, 9, rk . . 59 . 4. 9 . 95. 5 .

PRINTE D BY TH E TEMPLE PRESS AT LETCHWORTH I N G REAT B RITAI