N6 www.philly.com THE PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER Sunday, December 4, 2011

The Inquirer Sydneysites that salute theAussie military

AUSTRALIA from N1 one of the finest historic barracks Battery system keeps Ataste of old-world in the world. Free tours are offered on Thurs- iPhone in power. N4 Belgium on abudget. N5 days by the Victoria Barracks Corps of Guides, retired veterans wearing khaki army slouch hats A and blue blazers. Our guide, David, had been stationed at the barracks Sunday, Dec.4,2011 ★ Section N during the Vietnam Warsoheknew the place well. The tour starts in the Guard House with avisit to the four cells that held “drunken and outrageous persons.” This being an army base with young soldiers away from home, the cells were eventually expanded into another building. While leaving the Guard House, David pointed out ametal badge on his cap and explainedthe signifi- canceofthe crown in the center of the Australian army symbol. The Family flying current logo contains afemale crown (yes, male and female crowns are different) representing the reigning monarch, Queen Eliza- Folks flying with kids seldom feel special on airlines beth II. He said that after “Lizzie goes” the logo will be updated to these days. And any perks are likely to come at extra cost. show amale crown for King Charles, or perhaps King William. Loyalty to the monarchy lives on in By Michelle Higgins It was the low point of an arduous trip. the Australian army. NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICE The misery of air travel is no surprise The tour of the barracks includes urely they could spare alittle to anyone who has boarded adomestic the Army Museum of New South milk, right? flight in the last five years. As airlines Wales. The museum traces the his- But when John and Mary Rose have maximized capacity and slashed tory of the Australian army from the early days of the colony to Lin of Jersey City,N.J., ran out of services, passengers have learned to S World WarII. Pride of place is giv- milk for their 18-month-old twins brace themselves for packed planes, on arecent Continental flight from New- en to the famed Gallipoli Cloth, a ark to Maui,the flight attendant refused stuffed overhead bins, harried flight at- five-foot-square fabric containing to give them more. That particular bever- tendants,and fees for everything from the signatures of the first soldiers age, the Lins recall being told, was for pretzels to pillows. On top of that are who returned from the disastrous coffee, not children. “I was not asking for delays and cancellations. Gallipoli campaign in World WarI. afull bottle, just acup,” said Mary Rose For families, however,the costs and the Most of what we knew about that Lin, noting that she even offered to pay inconveniences are compounded. battle was gleaned from the movie for the milk. See FAMILY on N4 of the same name starring Mel Gib- son. We were to learn much more a bit later in the day. After touring the Victoria Bar- racks we took a10-minute bus ride MICHAEL MILNE to the ANZAC Memorial located in The National Maritime Museum combines the glass cases of memorabilia of atraditional museum with the hands-on features of a“please touch” exhibit. Hyde Park in the center of Sydney. ANZAC, revered in Australia, is the battle are on display and sketchy er that was returning home from Australia New Zealand Army Corps black-and-white films taken at the Europe in 1941, only to be sunk by that fought in the battle of Gallipoli. Information time run on acontinuous loop to aGerman raider off the coast of Plannedasabold move to land AN- give the visitor a“you are there” western Australia with the loss of ZAC troops on the shifting sands of Victoria Barracks/Army Museum every day,except Good Friday feel. all hands. theGallipoli Peninsula, it turned of New South Wales and Christmas Day,from 9a.m. The museum continues with ex- The interactive displays include out to be adisaster.The troops to 5p.m. hibits about the home front in one where the visitor plays the Location: Oxford Street in were pinned down on the beach Admission: Free World WarII. For obvious rea- role of asubmarine sonar techni- and under constant enemy fire for Paddington, a10-minute bus ride sons we were particularly drawn cian trying to decipher garbled un- eight months, only to be evacuated from the center of Sydney.Buses Web: to the display of Warrant Officer derwater sounds. The player with tremendous losses. 378, 380 and 382 stop right in www.anzacmemorial.nsw.gov.au/h GN Milne’sdiary; he was sta- guesses what each sound repre- Australians, being the positive front. ome tioned at ahospital in Darwin, sents and is promoted (or demot- creatures they are, view the battle Hours: The Army Museum is Australian National Maritime Australia, when it was damaged ed) based on the response. We as asupreme example of their sol- open on Thursday from 10 a.m. Museum by Japanese bombing raids. The kept at it for some time until we diers’ gallantry and fortitude. One to 1p.m. and Sunday from 10 ANZAC Memorial gives visitors a couldfinally tell the difference be- Korean Warveteran explained a.m. to 4p.m. Victoria Barracks Location: Darling Harbour in greater appreciation of Australia tweenagroup of porpoises and a that even though Gallipoli was a is still an active Army base so Sydney.Easy access from the at war. damaged piston rod. major defeat, “The nation was guided tours are required. These city center by foot, bus, light rail, The last stop on our personal mili- At this point we had been to forged by that battle, it made Aus- are offered on Thursdays at 10 ferry or monorail. tary campaign of Sydney was the enough sobering military displays tralia the nation that it is today. a.m. Hours: Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5 Australian National Maritime Muse- for one day.Fortunately,the Mari- Youcan’toverestimate its signifi- Admission: Tickets are $2 to the p.m. (Until 6p.m in January.) um. Everything we had seen so far time Museum also has an exhibit cance.” Army Museum while the guided Closed Christmas Day. was land-based, but Australia is a devoted to the nation’ssurfing heri- The square, 98-foot-tall memorial tour is free. nation that is defined by the sea. tage. This is the Australiathat lives is clad in pink granite quarried Admission: Entrance to the The exhibition is outstanding; it on in foreign perceptions of the from nearby Bathurst. The art deco Web: museum is free. Visitors wishing combines the finest aspects of atra- country.While the typical Austra- design caused somewhat of an up- www.army.gov.au/ArmyMuseumof to board ships including a ditional museum —glass cases lian’soutlook on life is pretty sun- Amother and her roar due to its break from tradition- NSW/ submarine, Navy destroyer,and chock-full of memorabilia —with ny,itisanation that has witnessed 3-year-old daughter at al memorial architecture of the ANZAC Memorial full-scale replica of Captain the hands-on features of a“Please dark clouds as well. In one day we Logan Airport in time. Although there are no names Cook's Endeavour must Touch” display. were able to witness both sides of Boston. Flying with of soldiers inscribed at the monu- Location: Hyde Park South in the purchase aseparate ticket. Several cases house large-scale Australia. Anation that was forged children today isn’t ment, the 120,000 stars in the ceil- center of Sydney.Pretty much (Adults: $12-$32 and children: models of the ships that have held on the sands of Gallipoli was later like the ’60s, when ing represent those who served in every city bus stops here. The $7-$17.) Prices are in Australian the coveted designation HMAS nurtured on the sands of its beach- families seemed to the war.The interior’smain focus is nearest train station is Museum dollars, which are about Sydney; from the World WarI-era es to create the vibrant country get royal treatment. apoignant statue of asoldier, Station one-to-one with US dollars. cruiser that escorted the firstAN- that it is today. whose lifeless body lies on asword Hours: The memorial is open Web: www.anmm.gov.au/ ZAC convoy rightuptothe fourth and shield being held aloft by three incarnation, aguided missile frig- Larissa and Michael Milne are traveling women and an infant representing ate that helped supportsanctions around the world for ayear and will be STEPHAN SAVOIA /Associated Press, file mother,wife, sister,and child: The cruciform base of the memo- been expanded to include the role against Iraq. In between we reporting in regularly about their those who were left behind by the rial houses amuseum dedicated of Australian troops right up to learned the sobering tale of the journey. You can follow them at Seeing those laid-backAussiesasafighting force brutality of war. to the Gallipoli campaign. It has the Gulf War. Mementos from the third HMAS Sydney,alight cruis- www.ChangesInLongitude.com.

ustralia is often thought of as alaid-back nation whose re- A laxedcitizens seem to be on permanent vacation. Perhaps this carefree attitude is due to the fact that more than 90 percent of the population lives within the siren call of the beach. But while much of the culture has been formed by an outlook based on surf and sand, the country has also experienced dark days and challenges throughout its A Year and A World history. An excellent way to learn about By Larissa and this past is to visit several sites in Michael Milne Sydney that highlight the country’s military legacy.Agood place to start is the Victoria Barracks, locat- ed sandstone buildings are the MICHAEL MILNE ed on 29 acres in the neighborhood most significant group of late-Geor- At Sydney’s Victoria Barracks,left, free tours are led by the Corps of Guides, retired veterans. Ametal of Paddington.Built in the 1840s by gian architecture in Australia and badge on the guide’s hat bears afemale crown —for Queen Elizabeth —inthe army symbol. mostly convict labor,the colonnad- See AUSTRALIA on N6

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